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Title: The Book of Household Management

Author: Mrs. Isabella Beeton

Release Date: November 19, 2003  [eBook #10136]
[Last updated: July 4, 2012]

Language: English

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***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT***


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THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT;

Comprising Information for the

MISTRESS,
HOUSEKEEPER,
COOK,
KITCHEN-MAID,
BUTLER,
FOOTMAN,
COACHMAN,
VALET,
UPPER AND UNDER HOUSE-MAIDS,
LADY'S-MAID,
MAID-OF-ALL-WORK,
LAUNDRY-MAID,
NURSE AND NURSE-MAID,
MONTHLY, WET, AND SICK NURSES,
ETC. ETC.

ALSO, SANITARY, MEDICAL, & LEGAL MEMORANDA;

WITH A HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN, PROPERTIES, AND USES OF ALL THINGS
CONNECTED WITH HOME LIFE AND COMFORT.

BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON.







            Nothing lovelier can be found
  In Woman, than to study household good.--MILTON.




Published Originally By
S. O. Beeton in 24 Monthly Parts
1859-1861.

First Published in a Bound Edition 1861.




PREFACE.

I must frankly own, that if I had known, beforehand, that this book
would have cost me the labour which it has, I should never have been
courageous enough to commence it. What moved me, in the first instance,
to attempt a work like this, was the discomfort and suffering which I
had seen brought upon men and women by household mismanagement. I have
always thought that there is no more fruitful source of family
discontent than a housewife's badly-cooked dinners and untidy ways. Men
are now so well served out of doors,--at their clubs, well-ordered
taverns, and dining-houses, that in order to compete with the
attractions of these places, a mistress must be thoroughly acquainted
with the theory and practice of cookery, as well as be perfectly
conversant with all the other arts of making and keeping a comfortable
home.

In this book I have attempted to give, under the chapters devoted to
cookery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a list of the
_ingredients_, a plain statement of the _mode_ of preparing each dish,
and a careful estimate of its _cost_, the _number of people_ for whom it
is _sufficient_, and the time when it is _seasonable_. For the matter of
the recipes, I am indebted, in some measure, to many correspondents of
the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine," who have obligingly placed at my
disposal their formulas for many original preparations. A large private
circle has also rendered me considerable service. A diligent study of
the works of the best modern writers on cookery was also necessary to
the faithful fulfilment of my task. Friends in England, Scotland,
Ireland, France, and Germany, have also very materially aided me. I have
paid great attention to those recipes which come under the head of "COLD
MEAT COOKERY." But in the department belonging to the Cook I have
striven, too, to make my work something more than a Cookery Book, and
have, therefore, on the best authority that I could obtain, given an
account of the natural history of the animals and vegetables which we
use as food. I have followed the animal from his birth to his appearance
on the table; have described the manner of feeding him, and of slaying
him, the position of his various joints, and, after giving the recipes,
have described the modes of carving Meat, Poultry, and Game. Skilful
artists have designed the numerous drawings which appear in this work,
and which illustrate, better than any description, many important and
interesting items. The coloured plates are a novelty not without value.

Besides the great portion of the book which has especial reference to
the cook's department, there are chapters devoted to those of the other
servants of the household, who have all, I trust, their duties clearly
assigned to them.

Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on the
"Management of Children"----"The Doctor," the latter principally
referring to accidents and emergencies, some of which are certain to
occur in the experience of every one of us; and the last chapter
contains "Legal Memoranda," which will be serviceable in cases of doubt
as to the proper course to be adopted in the relations between Landlord
and Tenant, Tax-gatherer and Tax-payer, and Tradesman and Customer.

These chapters have been contributed by gentlemen fully entitled to
confidence; those on medical subjects by an experienced surgeon, and the
legal matter by a solicitor.

I wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratulations I have
received during the progress of this work, and have only further to add,
that I trust the result of the four years' incessant labour which I have
expended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of my countrymen
and countrywomen.

ISABELLA BEETON.




GENERAL CONTENTS


CHAP.

I.--THE MISTRESS.

2.--THE HOUSEKEEPER.

3.--ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN.

4.--INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY.

5.--GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS.

6.--RECIPES.

7.--THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES.

8.--RECIPES.

9.--SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS.--GENERAL REMARKS.

10.--RECIPES.

11.--VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.

12.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS.

13.--RECIPES.

14.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB.

15.--RECIPES.

16.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG.

17.--RECIPES.

18.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF.

19.--RECIPES.

20.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS.

21.--RECIPES.

22.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME.

23.--RECIPES.

24.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES.

25.--RECIPES.

26.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

27.--RECIPES

28.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLÉS, OMELETS,
    AND SWEET DISHES.

29--RECIPES.

30.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONERY, ICES,
AND DESSERT DISHES.

31.--RECIPES.

32.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

33.--RECIPES.

34.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

35.--RECIPES.

36.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES.

37.--RECIPES.

38.--INVALID COOKERY.

39.--RECIPES.

40.--DINNERS AND DINING.

41.--DOMESTIC SERVANTS.

42.--THE REARING AND MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN, AND DISEASES OF
    INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD.

43.--THE DOCTOR

44.--LEGAL MEMORANDA




ANALYTICAL INDEX.

NOTE.--Where a "_p_" occurs before the number for reference, the
_page_, and not the paragraph, is to be sought.

Accidents, injuries, &c. remarks on 2578
Agreements 2705-7
Alexanders 1108
Alkalis 2654
Allium, the genus 1129
Allspice 438
Almond, the 1219
  Bitter 1220
  Cake 1752
  Cheesecakes 1219
  Flowers 1316
  Icing for cakes 1735
  Paste, for second-course dishes 1220
  Pudding, baked 1221
  Puddings, small 1222
  Puffs  1223
  Soup 110
  Tree  110, 1487
  Uses of the Sweet  1221
Almonds, and raisins 1605
  Husks of 1222
Anchovy, the 226
  Butter 1637
  Butter or paste 227
  Paste 228
  Sauce  362
  Toast 228
Anchovies, fried 226
  Potted 227
Animals, period between birth and maturity 92
  Quality of the flesh of 93-5
  Saxon names of 709
  Tails of 640
  Tongues of 675
Apoplexy 2634-6
Apple, the 111
  Charlotte 1420
  Charlotte aux pommes 1418
    an easy method of making  1419
  Cheesecakes  1226
  Constituents of the 1229
  Custard, baked 1389
  Dumplings, baked  1225
    boiled 1227
  Fritters 1393
  Ginger 1424, 1516
  Jam 1517
  Jelly 1518-19
    clear 1396
    or marmalade 1395
  Pudding, baked, rich 1228
    more economical 1229
    very good 1231
    boiled 1232
    iced 1290
    rich, sweet 1230
  Sauce, brown 364
    for geese or pork 363
  Snow 1401
  Snowballs 1235
  Soufflé 1402
  Soup 111
  Tart, creamed 1234
    or pie 1233
  Tourte or cake 1236
  Trifle 1404
  Universally popular 1236
  Uses of the 1225-6
Apples, à la Portugaise 1398
  And rice 1400
      a pretty dish 1397
  Buttered 1390
  Compote of 1515
  Dish of 1603
  Flanc of 1391-2
  Ginger 1424
  Ices 1394
  In red jelly 1399
  Stewed, and custard 1403
  To preserve in quarters (imitation of ginger) 1520
Apprentices  2724
Apricot, cream 1405
  Jam or marmalade 1522
  Pudding 1238
  Qualities of the 1239
  Tart 1239
Apricots, compote of  1521
  Flanc of 1406
Arrowroot, biscuits, or drops 1738
  Blancmange 1407
Arrowroot, Manufacture of 387, 1240
  Pudding, baked or boiled 1240
  Sauce for puddings 1356
  To make 1855
  What Miss Nightingale says of 1855
Arsenic  2656
Artichoke, composite or composite flowers of 1080
  Constituent properties of the 1083
  Jerusalem 1086
  Uses of the 1084
Artichokes, a French mode of cooking 1082
  A l'Italienne  1083
  Fried  1081
  Jerusalem, boiled 1084
    mashed 1085
    soup 112
    with white sauce 1086
  To boil  1080
Asparagus, ancient notion of 114
  Boiled 1087
  Island 1087
  Medicinal uses of 1088
  Peas 1088
  Pudding 1089
  Sauce 365
  Soup 113-14
Aspic, or ornamental savoury jelly 366
Attestation to wills 2750

Bachelor's omelet 1462
  Pudding 1241
Bacon, boiled 804
  Broiled rashers of 803
  Curing of 822
    and keeping it free from rust 806-9
    in the Devonshire way 821
    in the Wiltshire way 805
  Fried rashers of, and poached eggs 802
Bain-Marie  430
Bakewell pudding, very rich 1242
  Plainer 1243
Ball suppers _pp._ 957-8
Bandoline, to make 2255
Bantam, the 939
Barbel, the 229
  To dress 229
Barberries, in bunches 1523
Barberry, description of the 1245
  Tart 1245
Barley, 116
  Gruel 1856
  Soup 116
  Sugar 1524
  Water, to make 1857
Baroness pudding 1244
Basil 173
Baths and fomentations, remarks on 2599
  Cold 2603
  Heat of 2600
  Warm and hot bath 2601
Batter pudding, baked 1246
  with fruits 1247
  boiled 1248
  orange 1249
Bay or laurel, varieties of 180
  Consecrated by priests 512
Bean, haricot, the 1120
Beans, boiled, broad or Windsor 1092
    French 1090
  Broad, à la poulette 1093
  French mode of cooking 1091
  Haricots and minced onions 1121
    blancs à la maitre d'hôtel 1120
    blancs, or white haricots 1119
    and lentils 1119
  Nutritive properties of 1092
  Origin and varieties of 1093
Béchamel, or French white sauce 367
  Maigre, or without meat 368
  Sauce 406
Beef, aitchbone of, boiled 607
    to carve an _p._ 316
  A la mode 601-2
  Baked 598-9
  Baron of 679
  Bones, broiled 614
  Brisket of, à la Flamande 649
    to carve a _p._ 317
    to stew 649
  Broiled, and mushroom sauce 612
    oyster sauce 613
  Cake 610
  Carving _p._ 316
  Collared 617
  Collops  18
    minced 619
  Curried 620
  Different seasons for 611
  Dripping, to clarify 621-2
  Fillet of roast, larded 623
  French 649
  Frenchman's opinion of 626
  Fricandeau of 624
  Fried, salt 625
  Fritters 627
  Hashed 628-9
  Hung, to prepare 630
  Hunter's 631
  Kidney, to dress 632-4
  Marrow-bones boiled 635
  Minced 636
  Miriton of 637
  Names of the several joints 597
  Olives 650-1
  Palates, to dress 653
  Pickle for 654
  Potted 642-3
  Qualities of 599
  Ragoût of 656
  Rib bones of 644
  Ribs of, boned and rolled, roast (joint for a small family) 658
    roast 657
    to carve _p._ 317
  Rissoles 615
  Roast 658
  Rolled 646
  Rolls 647
  Round of, boiled 608
    miniature 618
    to carve a  _p._ 318
  Round of, to pickle part of a 655
  Rump of, stewed 670
    steak 666
  Sausages 662
  Seasons for 611
  Shin of, stewed 671
  Sirloin of, roast 659
      to carve a _p._ 317
  Sliced and broiled 664
  Spiced (to serve cold) 665
  Steak, a fried rump 626
    and kidney pudding 603
    oyster sauce 603
    broiled 611
    pie  604
    pudding, baked 650
    rolled, roasted, and stuffed 663
    stewed, and celery sauce 667
    with oysters 668
    with fried potatoes 606
  Tea, baked 1860
    savoury 1859
    to make 1858
  Tongue, boiled 673
    pickle for 641
    to carve a _p._ 318
     to cure a 674-5
    to pickle and dress a, to eat cold 676
  To salt 660
    Dutch way 661
Beef-tea, Dr. Christison's 1859
  Miss Nightingale's opinion of 1858
Beer, table 191
Beetroot 1094
  Boiled 1094
  Pickled 369
Benton sauce 370
Bequests, legacies, &c. 2744-9
Beverages, general observations on 1789, 1806
Bills of fare, for January _pp._ 909-13
  February 914-17
  March 918-21
  April 922-25
  May 926-29
  June 930-33
  July 934-36
  August  937-39
  September 940-42
  October 943-45
  November 946-48
  December 949-52
  ball supper for 60 persons _p._ 957
  ball supper, cold collation, for a summer entertainment for 70 or 80
      persons _p._ 958
  breakfasts 959
  game dinner for 30
  persons _p._ 953
  luncheons and suppers _p._ 959
  menu, service à la Russe _pp._ 954-5
  picnic for 40 persons 960
  suppers _p._ 956
Birds, general observations on 917-25
Biscuit powder 1737
Biscuits, arrowroot 1738
  Cocoa nut 1740
  Crisp 1741
  Dessert 1742
  Lemon 1743
  Macaroons 1744
  Ratafias 1745
  Remarks on 1712-15
  Rice 1746
  Rock 1747
  Savoy 1748
  Seed 1749
  Simple, hard 1750
  Soda 1751
Bites and stings, general remarks on 2609
  of insects 2610-11
  of snakes 2612
  Of dogs 2613
Blackcock, heathcock, &c. 1019
  Roast 1019
  To carve a 1054
Blancmange 1408
  Arrowroot. 1407
  Cheap 1409
  Lemon 1442
  Rice 1476
Bleeding, from the nose 2607
  Operation of 2605-6
Blonde, to clean 2265
Blood, spitting of 2608
Boar's head, importance of the 815
  The Westphalian 787
Bones, dislocation of 2614
  Fracture of 2615
Bonnets 2244
Books of account 2731
Boots, polish for 2240-1
  Bottled fresh fruit 1542-3
    with sugar  1544
  Boudin, à la reine  961
  Brain, concussion of, stunning 2623
  Brandy, cherry 1526
  Lemon 460
  Orange 1826
  Varieties of 1328
Bread, and bread-making 1668-1703
  And-butter fritters 1410
    pudding 1255
  Crumbs, fried 424
    Fried for borders 426
  Indian-corn-flour 1721
  Making in Spain 1776
  Origin of 117
  Properties of 1252
  Pudding, baked 1250
    boiled  1252
    brown 1253
    miniature 1254
    very plain 1254
  Rice 1720
  Sauce 371-2
  Sippets of, fried 425
    Soda 1722
Bread, soup 117
  To make a peck of good 1719
  To make good home-made 1718
  To make yeast for 1716
Breakfasts _p._ 959, _par_ 2144-6
Breath, shortness of, or difficult breathing 2670
Bride-cake, rich 1753
Bridles 2218
Brill, the 230
  To carve a _pp._ 175-6
Brilla soup 166
Brocoli, boiled 1095
Broth, calf's-foot 1862
  Chicken 1863
  Eel 1866
  Mutton to make 1872
  Mutton to quickly make 1873
Brown roux for thickening gravies 525
Browning, for sauces and gravies 373
  For stock 108
Bruises, lacerations, and cuts 2617
  Treatment of 2618
Brushes, to wash 2250
Brussels sprouts, boiled 1096
Bubble-and-squeak 616
Bullock's heart, to dress a 615
Buns, light 1731
  Plain 1729
  To make good plain 1730
  Victoria 1732
Burns and scalds 2619
  Treatment of the first class of 2620
  Treatment of the second class 2621
  Treatment of the third class 2622
Butler, care of plate and house 2162
  Duties of the, at breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and dessert 2157-9
   luncheon, in the drawing-room 2161
  Lights, attention to 2160
  Wine, bottling 2167-70
  Wine, cellar 2163-5
  Wine, fining 2166
Butter, anchovy 227,1637
  Antiquity of 1205
  Beurre noir, or brown butter (a French sauce) 374
  Clarified 375
  Colouring of 1636
  Curled 1635
  Easily digested 1255
  Fairy 1636
  General observations on 1615-19
  How to keep 1635
  How to keep fresh 1207
  In haste 1206
  Maitre d'hôtel 465
  Melted 376-7
  Melted (the French sauce blanche) 378
  Melted made with milk 380
  Moulds for moulding fresh butter 1634
  Thickened 379
  To keep and choose, fresh 1632
  To preserve and to choose, salt 1633
  What to do with rancid 1208
Cabbage, the 118
  Boiled 1098
  Colewort, or wild 1099
  Green kale, or borecole 1097
  Kohl-Rabi, or turnip 1095
  Qualities of the 1169
  Red, pickled 499
  Red, stewed 1099
  Savoy, and Brussels sprouts 1096
  Savoy, description of the 140
  Soup 118
  Tribe and their origin 1098
  Turnip tops and greens 1169
Cabinet, or chancellor's pudding 1256
  Plain, or boiled bread-and-butter pudding 1257
Café au lait 1812
  Noir 1813
Cake, almond 1752
  Breakfast, nice 1739
  Bride or Christening 1753
  Christmas 1754
  Cocoa-nut 1740
  Economical 1756
  Good holiday 1763
  Honey 1758
  Lemon 1764
  Luncheon 1765
  Nice useful 1757
  Pavini 1771
  Plain 1766
  Plain for children 1767
  Plum, common 1768
  Plum, nice 1769
  Pound 1770
  Queen 1773
  Rice 1746, 1772
  Saucer, for tea 1774
  Savoy 1748, 1782
  Scrap 1779
  Seed, common 1775
  seed, very good 1776
  Snow 1777-8
  Soda 1781
  Sponge 1783-4
  Sponge Small, to make 1785
  Tea 1786
  Tea to toast 1787
  Tipsy 1487
  Tipsy an easy way of making 1488
  Yeast 1788
Cakes, hints on making and baking 1704-11
Calf, the 173
  Birth of the 893
  Breeding of the 858
  Fattening the 903
  Feeding a 862
  General observations on the 845-53
  In America 864
  Names of the 899
  Symbol of Divine power 890
  The golden 873
  When it should be killed 860
Calf's feet, baked or stewed 1861
Calf's feet, boiled with parsley and butter 860
Calf's feet, broth 1862
Calf's feet, fricasseed 861
  jelly 1416
      Head, à la Maitre d'hôtel 864
      boiled 876-7
      collared 862
      club 867
      fricasseed 863
      hashed 878
      soup 167
    to carve a 913
    Liver and bacon 881
    aux fines herbes 880
      larded and roasted 882
    Udder, for French forcemeats 421
Calomel 2658
Camp-vinegar 381
Canary-pudding 1258
Candlesticks 2311
Cannelons, or fried puffs 1417
Caper-sauce, for boiled mutton 382
  For fish 383
  Substitute for 384
Capercalzie, the 1026
Capers 383
Capsicums, pickled 385
Carbonate of soda 1765
Carp, the 242
  Age of the 243
    Baked 242
    Stewed 243
  Carpet sweeping 2312
  Carriages 2225-9
  Carrot, the 121
    Constituents of the 1101
    Jam, to imitate apricot preserve 1525
    Nutritive properties of the 1102
    Origin of the 1100
    Pudding, boiled or baked 1259
    Seed of the 1103
  Soup 120-1
  Varieties of the 1172
Carrots, boiled 1100
  Sliced 1103
  Stewed 1102
  To dress in the German way 1101
Carving, beef _p._ 316
  aitchbone of _p._ 316
  brisket of _p._ 317
  ribs of _p._ 317
  round of _p._ 318
  sirloin of _p._ 317
  Blackcock 1054
  Brill _pp._ 175-6
    Calf's head 913
    Codfish _p._ 174
    Duck 999
      wild 1055
    Fowl 1000-1
    Goose 1002
    Grouse 1058
    Ham 843
    Hare 1056
    Lamb 764-5
    Landrail 1063
    Mutton, haunch of 759
    leg of 760
    loin of 761
    mutton, saddle of 762
      shoulder of 763
  Partridge 1057
  Pheasant 1059
  Pigeon 1063
  Plover 1066
  Pork 842
    leg of 844
  Ptarmigan 1064
  Quail 1065
  Rabbit 1004
  Salmon _p._ 175
  Snipe 1060
  Soles _p._ 175
  Sucking-pig 842
  Teal 1067
  Tongue _p._ 318
  Turbot _p._ 175
  Turkey 1005
  Veal 854
    breast of 912
    fillet of 914
    knuckle of 915
    loin of 916
  Venison, haunch of 1061
  Widgeon 1068
  Woodcock 1062
Cauliflower, description of the 1105
  Properties of the 1151
Cauliflowers, à la sauce blanche 1105
  Boiled 1104
  With Parmesan cheese 1106
Cayenne, varieties of 362
  Vinegar or essence of cayenne 386
Celery, indigenous to Britain 122
  Origin of 1109
  Sauce for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387
    (a more simple recipe) 388
  Soup 122
  Stewed 1110
    à la crême 1108
    with white sauce 1109-10
  To dress 1107
  Various uses of 441, 1107
  Vinegar 389
Champagne 1832
  Cup 1832
Chanticleer and his companions 947
Chantilly soup 123
Char, the 243
Charlotte apple, very simple 1420
  Aux pommes, an easy method of making 1418-19
  Russe 1421
Cheese 1638
  Cayenne 1642
  Cream 1622
  Damson 1536
  Decomposed 1638
  Fondue 1643
    Brillat Savarin's 1644
  General observations on 1620-2
  Macaroni, as usually served with 1645-7
  Mode of serving 1640
  Pork 799
  _Paragraph_
  Pounded 1648
  Raisin 1587
  Ramakins, to serve with 1649-50
  Sandwiches 1641
  Scotch rarebit 1651
  Smoking 1640
  Stilton 1639
  Toasted, or Scotch rarebit 1651
  Welsh 1652
Cheesecakes, almond 1219
  Apple 1226
  Lemon 1292
Cherokee or store sauce 528
Cherries, dried 1527
  Morello, to preserve 1561
  To preserve in syrup 1529
Cherry, brandy 1526
  Jam 1528
  Sauce for sweet puddings 1357
  Tart 1261
  Tree in Rome 1561
  Varieties of the 1261
Chervil, peculiarities of 129
Chestnut sauce, brown 391
    for fowls or turkey 390
  Spanish, soup 124
  Uses of the 124
Chicken, boiled 938
  Broth 1863
  Curried 942
  Cutlets 926
  French 927
  Fricasseed 945
  Or fowl patties 928
  pie 929
  Potted 930
  Pox, or glass-pox 2538-42
  Salad 931
Chickens, age and flavour of 931
Chili vinegar 393
China chilo 712
Chocolate, box of 1502
  Cream 1430
  History of 1430
  Soufflé 1427
  To make 1807
Cholera, and autumnal complaints 2624
Christmas, cake 1754
  Plum-pudding, very good 1328
  Pudding, plain, for children 1327
Christopher North's sauce for game or meat 394
Chub, the 243
Churning 2365
Churns 2362
  Cleaning the 2368
Cinnamon-tree, the 524
Citron, uses of the 1329
  Varieties of the 1436
Claret cup 1831
  Varieties of 1831
Cleanings, periodical 2326-9
Cleanliness, advantages of 2689
Clothes, cleaning 2239
Clove, derivation of the name 436
  Tree 367
Coach-house and stables 2204
Coach-house and stables, furniture of the 2209
  Harness-room 2208
  Heat of stables 2205
  Horse, the 2203
  Stalls 2207
  Ventilation of stables 2206
Coachman, carriages 2225-9
  Choosing horses 2231
  Driving 2232
  Duties of the 2210
  Pace of driving 2230
  Whip, the 2233
Cock-a-Leekie 134
Cocoa and chocolate, various uses of 1807
  To make 1816
Cocoa-nut, the 125
  Cakes or biscuits 1740
  Soup 125
Cod, fecundity of the 241
  Food of the 237
  Habitat of the 239
  Method of preserving 233
  Season for fishing for the 240
  Sounds 234
  Tribe, the 231
Codfish, the 231
  A la Béchamel 239
    créme 233
  A l'Italienne 241
  A la maitre d'hôtel 240
  Curried 237
  Head and shoulders of 232
    to carve _p._ 174
  Pie 235-6
  Preserving 233
  Salt, (commonly called salt fish) 233
  Sounds 233
    en poule 234
  To choose 232
Coffee, Café au lait 1812
  Café noir 1813
  Essence of 1808
  Miss Nightingale's opinion on 1865
  Nutritious 1864
  Plant 1811
  Simple method of making 1811
  To make 1810
  To roast 1809
Cold-meat cookery:--
  Beef, baked 598-9
    bones, broiled 614
    broiled, and mushroom sauce 612
      oyster sauce 613
    bubble-and-squeak 616
    cake 610
    curried 620
    fried salt 625
    fritters 627
    hashed 628-9
    minced 636
    miriton of 637
    olives 651
    potted 613
    ragoût 656
    rissoles 615
    rolls 647
    sliced and broiled 664
    stewed, and celery sauce 667
      with oysters 668
  Calf's head, a la maitre d'hôtel 864
    fricasseed 863
    hashed 878
    Chicken, cutlets 927
      or fowl patties 928
        potted 930
        salad 931
  Duck, hashed 932
    stewed and peas 935
      turnips 937
    wild, hashed 1020
      ragoût of 1021
  Fish, and oyster pie 257
    cake 258
    cod, à la Béchamel 239
      à la crême 238
      curried 237
      pie 235-6
    salmon, curried 305
    scallop 350-1
    turbot, à la crême 341
      au gratin 342
      fillets of, baked 339
        à l'Italienne 340
  Fowl, à la Mayonnaise 962
    boudin, à la Reine 961
    croquettes of 953-4
    fricasseed 946
    fried 947-8
    hashed 955
      Indian fashion 957
    Indian dish of 959
    minced 956
      à la Béchamel 950
    or chicken, curried 942
    ragoût 951
    scollops 658
    sauté, with peas 960
  Game, hashed 1023
  Goose, hashed 967
  Hare, broiled 1029
    hashed 1030
  Lamb, hashed, and broiled bladebone 749
  Mutton, baked minced 703
    broiled and tomato sauce 710
    collops 731
    curried 713
    cutlets 714
    dormers 715
    haricot 718
    hashed 719
    hodge-podge 720
    pie 733
    ragoût of neck 736
    toad in hole 743
  Pork, cheese 796
    cutlets 796
    hashed 801
  Turkey, croquettes of 987
    fricasseed 988
    hashed 989
  Veal, baked 856
    cake 859
    collops, Scotch 870-1
    curried 865
    fillet of, au Béchamel 883
    loin of, au Béchamel 887
    minced 889-92
    olive pie 895
    patties, fried 896
     ragout of 900
    rissoles 901
    rolis 902
    tête de veau en tortue 911
  Venison, hashed 1050
Cold, to cure a 2625
  On the chest 2626
College pudding 1263
Collops, cooking 871
  Scotch 870
  Scotch white 871
Combs, to clean 2251
Compote of, Apples 1515
  Apricots 1521
  Damsons 1537
  Figs, green 1541
  Gooseberries 1515
  Greengages 1551
  Oranges 1565
  Peaches 1572
Compotes, to make syrup for 1512
Confectionary, general observations on 1508
Consommé, or white stock for many sauces 395
Constructive notices 2699
Convulsions or fits 2519-22
Cook, duties of the cook, kitchen, and scullery-maids 79
  Early rising 80
  First duty of the 81
  General directions to the 75
  duties of the 82-4
Cookery, cleanliness of utensils used in 72
  Excellence in the art of 78
  Explanation of French terms used in 87
  Introduction to 76
  Measures used in 77
Copper 2659
Coriander plant, the 174
Corks, with wooden tops 446
Corrosive sublimate 2657
Cow, cheese 1652
  Heel, fried 639
    stock for jellies 1412
  Pox, or vaccination 2543-6
    or variola 906
Cows, cost of keep for 2370
Cowslip wine 1817
Crab, hot 245
  Sauce, for fish 396
  To dress 244
  Tribe, the 245
Crape, to make old look like new 2277
Crayfish, the 246
Crayfish, how preserved 193
  Potted 247
  Soup 193
Cream, à la Valois 1422
  Apricot 1405
  Chocolate 1430
  Devonshire 1630
  Ginger 1432
  Italian 1437
  Lemon 1443
    economical 1444
    or custards 1446
    very good 1445
  Noyeau 1452
  Orange, Seville 1464
    sweet 1463
  Peculiarities of 1385
  Raspberry 1475
  Sauce for fish or white dishes 397
  Stone, of tous les mois 1483
  Swiss 1485
  To make ice fruit 1555
  Vanilla 1490
  Whipped 1492
Creams, general observations on 1385
Croquettes of, fowl 953-4
  Rice 1477
Croup 2568
  Symptoms of 2569
  Treatment of 2570-3
Crumpets 1728
Crust, butter, for boiled puddings 1213
  Common, for raised pies 1217
  Dripping, for kitchen puddings and pies 1214
  For fruit tarts, very good 1210
  Lard or flead 1218
  Pâté brisée, or French, for raised pies 1216
  Short, common 1212
  good 1211
  Suet, for pies and puddings 1215
Cucumber, antiquity of the 127, 402
  Chate 1114
  Geographical distribution of the 1111
  Indigestible 1152
  Properties and uses of the 1113
  Sauce 398
    white 400
  Soup 127
  Vinegar (a very nice addition to salads) 491
Cucumbers, à la poulette 1112
  Fried 1113
  For winter use 402
  Pickled 399
  Preserving (an excellent way) 403
  Stewed 1114
  with onions 1115
  To dress 1111
Curds and whey 1629
Currant, dumplings 1264
  Fritters 1429
  Jam, black 1530
    red 1532
  Jelly, black 1531
    red 1533
    white 1534
  Pudding, black or red 1266
    boiled 1265
  Red, and raspberry tart 1267
Currants, iced 1558
  Uses of 1266
    Zante, description of 1264
Curry powder 449
Custard, apple, baked 1389
  Boiled 1423
  Creams, or lemon 1446
  Pudding, baked 1268
  boiled 1269
  Sauce for sweet puddings or tarts 404
  Tartlets, or Fanchonnettes 1315
Cutlets, chicken 926
    French 927
  Invalid's 1865
  Lamb 747
  Mutton 732
    Italian 723
    of cold 714
  Pheasant 1040
  Pork 796-8
  Salmon 306
  Sauce for 513
  Veal 866
    à la Maintenon 868
  Cygnet, the 998

Dace, the 243
Dairy, the 2358
  Butter, colouring of 2366
    milk 2368
    washing 2367
  Churning 2365
  Churns 2362
  Cleaning the churn, &c. 2368
  Cows, cost of keep for 2370
  Devonshire system 2369
  Hair sieve 2360
  Maid, charge of dairy produce 2371
    duties of the 2357
  Milk, dishes 2361
    general management of 2364
    pails 2359
  Situation of the 2363
Dampfnudeln, or German puddings 1280
Damson, the 1270
  A very nice preserve 1539
  Cheese 1536
  Jam 1538
  Pudding 1271
  Tart 1270
Damsons, baked for winter use 1535
  Compote of 1537
  To preserve, or any other kind of plums 1540
Darioles, à la vanille 1428
Date, the 1605
Debts 2755
  Estate chargeable with 2748
Decanters, to clean 2198, 2336
Deer, the 1049
  Fallow 1050
  Roebuck 1051
Deer, stag 1051
Delhi pudding 1272
Dentition 2509
Dessert, biscuits 1742
  Dishes 1598
    general remarks on 1509
Devonshire, cream 1630
  Junket 1631
Diarrhoea 2574-7
Dilapidations 2718
Dinners, and dining 1879-86
  A la Russe 2137-8
    menu p. 955
  Bills of fare for, from 6 to 18  persons, from January to December
     _pp._ 909-52
  Bills of fare for game, for 30 persons _p_. 953
  Bills of fare for plain family _pp._ 913, 917, 921, 925, 929, 933,
    936, 939, 942, 945, 948, 952
Diseases of infancy and childhood 2509-77
Dishes, a hundred different 434
Domestics, general remarks on 2153-6
Dormers 715
Downs, the 725
Draught, for summer 1837
Dress and dressing of infants 2491-6
Drink for warm weather, pleasant 1836
Dripping, to clarify 621-2
Driving 2232-3
Drowning, treatment after 2676
Duck, the 932
  American mode of capturing the 936
  Aylesbury 935
  Bow-bill 936
  Buenos Ayres 933
  Eggs of the 934, 1658
  Fattening 936
  Hashed 932
  Hatching 935
  Man and dog, decoy 937
  Roast 934
    to carve a 999
  Rouen 934
  Snares in Lincolnshire 937
  Stewed, and peas 935-6
  and turnips 937
  To ragoût a whole 933
  Varieties of the 933
  Wild, the 934, 937, 1022
    hashed 1020
    ragoût of 1021
    roast 1022
    to carve a 1055
Ducklings, cooping and feeding 935
Dumplings, baked apple 1225
  Boiled apple 1227
  Currant 1264
  Lemon 1294
  Marrow 1306
  Sussex, or hard 1376
  Yeast 1383
Dusting 2313
Dutch flummery 1426
  Sauce, for fish 405
    Green, or Hollandaise verte 406

Eel, broth 1866
  Haunts of the 254
  Pie 253
  Productiveness of the 252
  Soup 194
  Tenacity of life of the 256
  The common 250
  Tribe, the 249
  Voracity of the 253
Eels, à la Tartare 255
  Boiled 249
  Collared 254
  En matelote 256
  Fried 252
  Stewed 250-1
Egg, balls for soups and made dishes 408
  Sauce for salt fish 409
  Soup 128
  Wine 1867
Eggs, à la maitre d'hôtel 1660
  A la tripe 1667
  Boiled for breakfast, salads, &c. 1656
  Buttered 1657
  Ducks' 1658
  For hatching 927-28
  Fried 1659
  General remarks on 1623-6
  Liaison of, for thickening sauces 461
  Oeufs au plat, or au miroir 1661
  Plovers' 1662
  Poached 1663
    with cream 1664
  Primitive method of cooking 1658
  Quality of 1654-5
  Scotch 1666
  Snow, or oeufs à la neige 1482
  To choose 1654
    keep fresh for several weeks 1655
    pickle 407
  Veneration for 1659
  White of 1387
  Will crack if dropped in boiling water 1656
Elderberry wine 1818
Emetic, tartar 2660
Empress pudding 1273
Endive, à la Française 1118
  Genus of 1116
  Plant 169
  Stewed 1117
  To dress 1116
Entrée, beef or rump steak, stewed 666
  Beef, minced collops 619
  Boudin à la reine 961
  Calf's head, fricasseed 863
    liver, larded and roasted 882
  Chicken and rice croquettes 953-4
    cutlets 926
    or fowl, fricasseed 945
  Fowl, hashed 955
    sauté with peas 960
  Lamb, cutlets 747
    sweetbreads and asparagus 757
    another way
    to dress 758
  Lark pie 971
  Lobster-curry 274
Entrée, lobster cutlets 275
  patties 277
  Oyster patties 289
  Sweetbreads, baked 906
    fried 907
    stewed 908
  Veal cutlets 866
    à la Maintenon 868
    broiled 867
    collops 879
    fricandeau of 874-5
    tendons de veau 909-10
    tête de veau 911
    Vol au vent 1379
Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287
Epicurean sauce 410
Espagnole, or brown Spanish sauce 411
Everton toffee 1597
Exeter pudding 1274
Eye, lime in the 2629
  Sore 2628
  Stye in the 2630
  Substances in the 2627
Eyelids, inflammation of the 2631

Fairy butter 1636
Fanchonnettes, or custard tartlets 1315
Fasting 2632
Feathers 2284
Fennel 412
  Sauce for mackerel 412
Fig pudding 1275
Figs, green, compote of 1541
Fish, addendum and anecdote of _p_. 173
  And oyster pie 257
  As an article of human food 211-18
  Average prices 226
  Cake 258
  General directions for carving _p._.174-6
    dressing 219-25
    rule in choosing 226
  In season January to December _pp_. 33-7
  Kettle 338
  Pie with tench and eels 349
  Sauce 413, 512
  Scallop 350-1
  Soup 192
  Stock 192
  Supply of, for the London market 353
  To smoke at home 820
Fishes, natural history of 199-210
Fits 2633
  Apoplexy 2634-6
    and drunkenness, distinctions between 2638
    epilepsy, distinctions between 2637
    hysterics distinctions between 2639
    poisoning by opium, distinctions between 2640
  Epilepsy 2641
  Fainting 2642
  Hysterics 2643
  The consequence of dentition 2519-22
Fixtures 2713
Fleece, the golden 715
Floorcloth, to clean 2335
Flounder, the 259
Flounders, boiled 259
  Fried 260
Flour, nutritious qualities of 1218
Flowers, to preserve cut 2289
  after packing 2290
Flummery, Dutch 1426
Fomentations 2602-3
Fondue, Brillat Savarin's 1644
  To make 1643
Food for infants, and its preparation 2499, 2508
Footgear 2245
Footman, boot-cleaning 2174
  Boot tops 2176
  Breakfast, laying cloth, &c. 2181-3
  Brushing clothes 2180
  Decanters 2198
  Dinner 2185-6
  Dinners à la Russe 2188
  Dress and livery 2172
  During dinner 2191
  Early rising 2173
  Furniture-rubbing 2179
  General duties 2171
  Glass-washing 2197-8
  Going out with the carriage 2190
  Knives 2177
  Lamp-trimming 2178
  Letters and messages 2200
  Luncheon, duties at 2184
  Management of work 2196
  Manners, modesty, &c. 2190
  Opening wine 2192
  Pantry 2195
  Patent leather boots 2175
  Politeness 2201
  Receptions and evening parties 2202
  Removal of dishes 2193
  Salt-cellars 2187
  Tea 2194
  Waiting at table 2189
  Where a valet is not kept 2182
Forcemeat, balls for fish soups 414
  Boiled calf's udder for French 421
  For baked pike 413
    cold savoury pies 415
    various kinds of fish 416
    veal, turkeys, fowls, hare, &c. 417
  French 419-20
  Or quenelles, for turtle soup, Soyer's receipt for 423
  Oyster 489
Fowl, à la Mayonnaise 962
  And rice croquettes 953
  Boiled 938
    à la Béchamel 943
    to carve 1000
    with oysters 944
    rice 940
  Boudin à la reine 961
  Broiled and mushroom sauce 939
  Croquettes 954
  Curried 941-2
  Fricasseed 945-6
  Fried 947-8
  Hashed 955
    an Indian dish 957
  House, the 944
    stocking the 945
  Indian dish of 950
  Minced 956
    à la Béchamel 950
  Pillau 963
  Poulet aux cressons 964
    à la Marengo 949
  Ragoût of 951
  Roast 952
    stuffed 965
      to carve a 1001
Sauté, with peas 960
  Scallops 958
  To bone for fricassees 995
Fowls, à la Marengo 949
  As food 926
  Bantam 939
    feather-legged 958
  Best to fatten 951
    way to fatten 948
  Black Spanish 962
  Characteristics of health and power 946
  Chip in 953
  Cochin China 942
  Common, or domestic 926
  Diseases of, and how to cure 952
  Dorking 940
  Eggs for hatching 927
  Feeding and cooping 930
  Game 938
  Guinea 970
  Hatching 928
  Moulting season, the 956
  Obstruction of the crop 955
  Pencilled Hamburg 965
  Poland 941
  Scour, or Dysentery in 957
  Serai Ta-ook, or fowls of the Sultan 963
  Sir John Sebright's bantams 961
  Sitting 927
  Skin disease in 955
  Space for 943
  Speckled Hamburg 959
  "Turn" in 954
  Various modes of fattening 948
  Young 929
Freezing apparatus, method of working the 1290
French terms used in cookery 87
Fritters, apple 1393
  Beef 627
  Bread-and-butter 1410
  Currant 1429
  Indian 1435
  Orange 1465
  Peach 1469
  Pineapple 1472
  Plain 1473
  Potato 1474
  Rice 1478
Fruit, dish of mixed 1601
    summer 1604
  Fresh to bottle 1542-3
  Ice creams, to make 1555
  In season, January to December _pp._ 33-7
  Spots, to remove 2270
  To bottle with sugar 1544
  Turnovers 1278
  Water ices, to make 1556
Fuel 73
Fungi, analysis of 1128
  Varieties of 1124
Furniture cleaning 2307, 2313
  Gloss, German 2339
  Polish 2308-9
Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284

Game, general observations on 1006-18
  Hashed 1023
  In season, January to December _pp._ 33-7
Garlic 392
Geneva wafers 1431
Genevese sauce 427
German pudding 1279
    or Dampfnudeln 1280
Gherkins, or young cucumbers 428
  Pickled 428
Giblet pie 965
  Soup 168
Gilt frames, to brighten 2337
Ginger, apples 1424
  Beer 1833
  Cream 1432
  Preserved 1432
  Pudding 1281
  Qualities of 407
  Wine 1819
Gingerbread, nuts, rich sweetmeat 1759
    Sunderland 1761
  Thick 1769
  White 1762
Glaize, cold joints to 430
  For covering cold hams, tongues, &c 430
  Kettle 430
Godfrey's cordial 2663

Golden fleece, order of the 708, 715
  Pudding 1282
Goose, Brent 966
  Description of the 968
  Egyptian 969
  Hashed 967
  Roast 968
    to carve a 1002
  Stuffing for (Soyer's) 505
  To dress a green 969
  Wild 967
Gooseberries, compote of 1546
Gooseberry, the 1285
  Fool 1433
  Indigenous to British isles 429
  Jam 1547-8
    white or green 1549
  Jelly 1550
  Pudding, baked 1283
Gooseberry pudding, boiled 1284
  Sauce for boiled mackerel 429
  Tart 1285
  Trifle 1434
  Vinegar 1820
  Wine, effervescing 1821
Grapes, qualities of 1601
Grates 2298, 2299, 2338
Gravy, a quickly-made 434
  Beef, for poultry or game (good) 435
  Brown 436
    without meat 437
  Cheap, for minced veal 443
    hashes 440
  For roast meat 433
    venison 444
  General stock for 432
  Jugged, excellent 441
  Kettle 432
  Made without meat, for fowls 439
  Orange 488
  Rich, for hashes and ragouts 438
  Roux, for thickening brown 525
    white 526
  Soup 169
  Veal, for white sauces, fricassees 442
Greengage jam 1552
Greengages, compote of 1551
  To preserve dry 1553
    in syrup 1554
Green sauce 431
Greens, boiled, turnip 1169
  Turnip-tops, and cabbage 1169
Groom, bridles 2218
  Cleaning fawn or yellow leather 2223
  Duties of the 2211
  Exercising the horses 2213
  Feeding the horses 2214-15
  Harness 2219
    cleaning old 2221-2
    paste 2220
  Shoeing 2217
  Watering horses 2212, 2216
  Wheel-grease 2224
Grouse, description of the 1625-26
  Pie 1024
  Roast 1025
  Salad 1026
  To carve a 1058
Gruel, barley 1836
  To make 1868
Gudgeon, the 261
  Habitat of the 261
Guinea-fowl, description of the 970
  Roast 970
Guinea-pig, the 997
Gurnet, the 262
  To dress 262

Haddock, habitat of the 263
  Finnan 266
  Weight of the 264
Haddocks, baked 263
  Boiled 264
  Dried 265-6
Hair-dressing 2248-9
Hair, pomade for 2253-4
  To promote growth of 2257
  Wash for 2252
Ham, fried and eggs 843
  Omelet 1457
  Potted 814-5
  To bake a 810
    boil a 811
    carve a 843
    give it an excellent flavour 812
    glaize 430
Hams, curing of 822
  For curing 816
  To cure in the Devonshire way 821
        sweet, in the Westmoreland way 818
    pickle 819
    salt two 817
    smoke at home 820
Hare, broiled 1029
  Extreme timidity of the 1027
  Hashed 1030
  Jugged 1031-2
  Potted 1028
  Roast 1027
  Soup 170
  To carve a 1056
  The common 170
Haricot, beans, and minced onions 1121
  Blancs à la maître d'hôtel 1120
  Mutton 716-17-18
  To boil blancs, or white haricot beans 1119
Harness, cleaning old 2221-2
  Paste 2220
  Room, the 2208
Heart, palpitation of the 2646
Henbane, hemlock, nightshade, and foxglove 2664
Herbs, to dry for winter use 445
  Powder of, for flavouring 446
  Sweet 417
Heradotus pudding 1287
Herring, the 268
  Red 267
Herrings, baked, white 268
  Red, or Yarmouth bleaters 267
  To choose 268
Hessian soup 171
Hidden mountain, the 1438
Hodge-podge 191, 720
Hog, antiquity of the 826, 834
  Fossil remains of the 829
  General observations on the common 765-95
  In England 837
  Not bacon 807
  Universality of the 833
  Wild and domestic 823
Holly leaves, to frost 1545
Honey cake 1758
Hooping cough 2468, 2564
  Symptoms of 2565
  Treatment of 2566-7
Horse, the 2203
Horses, choosing 2231
  Exercising 2213
Horses feeding 2224-15
  Watering 2212, 2216
Horseradish, the 447
  Medical properties of the 1122
  Sauce 447
  Vinegar 448
Hot spice 524
Housekeeper, daily duties of the 58-61
  General duties of the 55
  Knowledge of cookery 57
  Necessary qualifications for a 56
Housemaid, bedroom, attention to 2306, 2323-4
  Bright grates 2298
  Candlestick and lamp-cleaning 2330
  Carpet-sweeping 2312
  Chips broken off furniture 2330
  Cleanings, periodical 2326-9
  Dress of the 2319
  Dusting 2313
  Duties after dinner 2321
    evening 2322
    general 2292-4
  Fire-lighting 2296-7
  Furniture-cleaning 2307, 2313
  General directions to the 2300-5
  Hartshorn, for plate-cleaning 2316
  Laying dinner-table 2314-5
  Marble, to clean 2333-4
  Needlework 2325
  Plate, to clean 2317
    rags for daily use 2318
  Upper and under 2291
  Waiting at table 2320
  Recipe, Brunswick black, to make 2295
    cement for joining broken glass or china 2331-2
    decanters, to clean 2336
    floorcloth, to clean 2335
    furniture gloss, German 2339
      paste 2310
      polish 2308-9
    gilt frames, to brighten 2337
    grates and fire irons, to preserve from rust 2338
    polish for bright grates 2299
Hunter's pudding 1288
Husband and wife 2725-9
Hysterics 2643

Ice, fruit creams, to make 1555
  Lemon-water 1557
  To ice, or glaze pastry 1334
Iced, apple pudding 1290
  Apples, or apple hedgehog 1394
  Currants 1558
  Oranges 1564
  Pudding 1289
Ices, fruit-water, to make 1556
  General observations on 1510-11
Icing, for cakes, almond 1735
  sugar 1736
Indian, Chetney sauce 452
  Corn-flour bread 1721
  Curry powder 449
  Fritters 1435
  Mustard 450
  Pickle 451
  Trifle 1436
Infant, the 2460-2577
Ink-spots, to remove 2271
Invalid cookery, rules to be observed in 1841-54
Invalid's cutlet, the 1865
  Jelly 1869
  Lemonade 1870
Insurance 2708-10
I. O. U., the 2723
Irish stew 721-2
Ironing 2282, 2393-6
Isinglass 1413
Italian, cream 1437
  Mutton cutlets 723
  Rusks 1733
  Sauce, brown 453
  white 451

Jam, apple 1517
  Apricot, or marmalade 1522
  Carrot 1525
  Cherry 1528
  Currant, black 1530
    red 1538
  Damson 1538
  Gooseberry 1547-8
    white or green 1549
  Greengage 1552
  Omelet 1460
  Plum 1580
  Raspberry 1588
  Rhubarb 1590
    and orange 1591
  Roly pudding 1291
  Strawberry 1594
Jaunemange 1439
Jelly, apple 1518-19
    clear 1396
    thick, or marmalade 1395
  Bag, how to make 1411
  Bottled, how to mould 1414
  Calf's foot 1416
  Cow-heel, stock for 1412
  Currant, black 1531
    red 1533
    white 1534
  General observations on 1386
  Gooseberry 1550
  Invalid's 1869
  Isinglass or gelatine 1413
  Lemon 1447
  Liqueur 1449
  Moulded with fresh fruit 1440
    with slices of orange 1455
  Of two colours 1441
  Open with whipped cream 1453
  Orange 1454
  Quince 1585
  Raspberry 1589
  Savoury, for meat pies 521
  Stock for, and to clarify it 1411
  Strawberry 1484
  To clarify syrup for 1415
Jewels 2286
John dory, the 248
  To dress the 248
Joints, injuries to 2616
Julienne, soup á la 191
Junket, Devonshire 1631

Kale brose 132
Kegeree 269
Ketchup, mushroom 472
  Oyster 490
  Walnut 535-6
Kettles for fish 338
Kidney and beefsteak pudding 605
  Omelet 1458
Kidneys, broiled 724
  Fried 725
Kitchen, distribution of a 62
  Essential requirements of the 70
  Fuel for the 73
  Ranges 65-6
  Maid, duties of the 85
  Necessity for cleanliness 72
  Scullery maid, duties of the 86
  Utensils, ancient and modern 69
    list of for the 71
Kitchens of the Middle Ages 62
Knives 2177
Kohl Rabi, or turnip-cabbage 1095

Lace collars, to clean 2266
Lady's maid, arranging the dressing room 2246-7
  Attention to bonnets 2244
  Chausserie, or foot-gear 2245
  Dressing, remarks on 2258-9
  Duties of the 2213, 2260-2
    when from home 2280
    evening 2281
  Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287
  Fashions, repairs, &c 2263
  Hairdressing 2248
    lessons in 2249
  Ironing 2282
  Jewels 2286
  Linen, attention to 2278
  Packing 2279
  Rules of conduct 2288
  Recipe, bandoline, to make 2255
    Blonde, to clean 2265
    Brushes, to wash 2250
    Combs, to clean 2251
    Crape, to make old look like new 2277
    Essence of lemon, use of 2274
    Flowers, to preserve cut 2289
      to revive after packing 2290
    Fruit-spots, to remove 2270
    Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284
    Grease-spots from cotton or woollen materials, to remove 2268
     from silks or moires, to remove 2269
    Hair, a good pomade for the 2253-4
    Hair, a good wash for the 2253
      to promote the growth of 2257
  Lace collars, to clean 2266
  Moths, preservatives against the ravages of 2285
  Paint, to remove from silk cloth 2276
  Pomatum, an excellent 2256
  Ribbons or silk, to clean 2275
  Scorched linen to restore 2283
  Stains of syrup or preserved fruit, to remove 2273
  To remove ink-spots 2271
  Wax, to remove 2272
Lamb, as a sacrifice 744
  Breast of, and green peas 744
    stewed 745
  Carving 761
  Chops 746
  Cutlets and spinach 747
  Fore quarter, to carve a 764
    to roast a 750
  Fry 748
  General observations on the 698-702
  Hashed and broiled blade-bone of 749
  Leg of, boiled 751
    roast 752
  Loin of, braised 753
  Saddle of 754
  Shoulder of 755
    stuffed 756
Lamb's sweetbreads, larded 757
  another way to dress 758
Lambswool, or lamasool 1227
Lamp-cleaning 2178,2311
Lamprey, the 256
Landlord and tenant, relations of 2700
Landrail or corn-crake 1033
  Roast 1033
  To carve  1063
Lard, to melt 625
Larding 828
Lark-pie 971
Larks, roast 972
Laundry, situation of, and necessary apparatus 2373-4
  Maid, cleaning and washing utensils 2386
  General duties of the 2372
  Ironing 2393-6
  Mangling and ironing 2387-9
  Rinsing 2379
  Soaking linen 2376
  Sorting linen 2375
  Starch, to make 2391-2
  Starching 2390
  Washing 2377-8
    coloured muslins, &c 2380
    flannels 2381
    greasy cloths 2382
    satin and silk ribbons 2384
    silk handkerchiefs 2383
    silks 2385
Laurel, or bay 180
Law, general remarks on 2694
Lead, and its preparations 2661
Leamington sauce 459
Lease, breaks in the 2711
Leases, general remarks on 2702-4
Leek, badge of the Welsh 134
  Soup 133
Legacies 2751-4
  Bequests, &c 2744-9
Legal memoranda 2694-2751
Lemon, anti venomous 455
  Biscuits 1743
  Blancmange 1442
  Brandy 460
  Cake 1764
  Cheesecakes 1292
  Cream 1443
    (economical) 1444
  Creams 1445
    or custards 1446
  Dumplings 1294
  Essence of 2274
  Fruit of the 405
  Jelly 1447
  Juice of the 456
  Mincemeat 1293
  Pudding, baked 1295-7
    boiled 1298
    plain 1299
  Rind or peel 460
  Sauce for boiled fowls 457
    for sweet puddings 1358
  Sponge 1448
  Syrup 1822
  Thyme 458
  To pickle with the peel on 455
    without the peel 456
  Water ice 1557
  White sauce for fowls or fricassees 458
  Uses of the 1296
  Wine 1823
Lemonade 1834
  For invalids 1870
  Most harmless of acids 1834
  Nourishing 1871
Lentil, the 126
Lettuce, corrective properties of the 136
  Varieties of the 1123
Lettuces, to dress 1123
Leveret, to dress a 1034
Liaison 461
Lightning, treatment after a person has been struck by 2677
Linen, attention to 2278
  Scorched, to restore 2283
  Soaking 2376
  Sorting 2375
Liqueur Jelly 1449
Liver, and lemon sauce for poultry 462
  And parsley sauce for poultry 463
  Complaints and spasms 2644
Lobster, the 270
  A la mode Française 273
  Ancient mode of cooking the 275
  Celerity of the 273
  Curry (an entrée) 274
  Cutlets (an entrée) 275
  Hot 271
  How it feeds 278
  Local attachment of the 277
  Patties (an entrée) 277
  Potted 278
  Salad 272
  Sauce 464
  Shell of the 272
  Soup 195
  To boil 270
  To dress 276
Lumbago 2645
Luncheon cake 1765
Luncheons and suppers 2147-48
Lungs, respiration of 2453-6

Macaroni, as usually served with cheese course 1645-7
  Manufacture of 135, 1301
  Pudding, sweet 1301
  Soup 135
  Sweet dish of 1450
Macaroons 1744
Mace 371
Macedoine de fruits 1440
Mackerel, the 281
  Baked 279
  Boiled 280
  Broiled 281
  Fillets of 282
  Garum 283
  Pickled 283
  To choose 281
  Weight of the 279
  Voracity of the 282
Maid-of-all-work, after breakfast 2344
    dinner 2350-1
  Bedrooms, attention to 2352
    daily work in 2345
  Before retiring to bed 2354
  Breakfast, preparation for 2343
  Cleaning hall 2342
  Cooking dinner 2346
  Early morning duties 2341
  General duties 2340
    routine 2353
  Knife-cleaning 2351
  Laying dinner-cloth 2347
  Needlework, time for 2356
  Waiting at table 2348-9
  Washing 2355
Maigre, soup 136
Maître d'hôtel 465
  butter 465
  sauce (hot) 466

Maize 1721
  Cobbett a cultivator of 1174
  Or Indian wheat, boiled 1174
Malt wine 1824
Manchester pudding 1300
Mangling and ironing 2387-9
Mango chetney, Bengal recipe for making 392
Manna kroup pudding 1302
  Qualities of 1302
Mansfield pudding 1303
Marble, to clean 2333-4
Marjoram, species of 173, 415
Marlborough pudding 1304
Marmalade, and vermicelli pudding 1305
  Of Apricots 1522
  Orange 1566-7
    an easy way of making 1568
    made with honey 1569
  Quince 1586
Marrow, bones 635
  Boiled 635
  Dumplings 1306
  Pudding, boiled or baked 1307
Mayonnaise 468
Measles 2547-59
Meat, action of salt on 607
  Bad 605
  Baking 665
  Good 602
  In season, January to December _pp_ 33-7
  Modes of cooking 540-84
  Pies, savoury jelly for 521
  To buy economically 726
Meats, preserved 643
Medical memoranda 2689-93
Melon, description of the 1559
  Introduced into England 1115
  Uses of the 1559
Melons 1569
Meringues 1451
Military puddings 1308
Milk, and cream, separation of 1627
    to keep in hot weather 1628
  And suckling 2472-90
  Excellence of 1627
  General observations on 1608-14
  Or cream, substitute for 1815
  Qualities of 1628
  Soup 137
Millet, Italian 1718
  Pannicled 1733
Mince pies 1311
Minced collops 619
Mincemeat, to make 1309
  Excellent 1310
  Lemon 1293
Mint 469
  Sauce 469
  Vinegar 470
Mistress, after-dinner invitations 39
  Charity and benevolence, duties of 14
  Choice of acquaintances 6
  Cleanliness indispensable to health 4
  Conversation, trifling occurrences 9
  Daily duties 22-6
  Departure of guests 45-6
  Dessert 37-8
  Dinner announced 35
  Domestics, engaging 17
    giving characters to 20
    obtaining 18
    treatment of 19
    yearly wages, table of 21
Mistress, dress and fashion 11
    of the 13
  Early rising 3
  Etiquette of evening parties 40-3
    the ball room 44
  Evenings at home 48
  Family dinner at home 47
  Friendships should not be hastily formed 7
  Good temper, cultivation of 10
  Guests at dinner-table 36
  Half-hour before dinner 34
  Home virtues 5
  Hospitality, excellence of 8
  Household duties 1-2
  House-hunting, locality, aspect, ventilation, rent 54
  Housekeeping account-book 16
  Introductions 51
  Invitations for dinner 33
  Letters of introduction 52-3
  Marketing 15
  Morning calls and visits 27-32
  Purchasing of wearing apparel 12
  Retiring for the night 49
Mock-turtle soup 172-3
Morello cherries, to preserve 1561
Moths, preservatives against 2285
Muffins 1727
Mulberries, preserved 1360
Mulberry, description of the 1360
Mullagatawny soup 174
Mullet, grey 284
  Red 285
Muriatic acid 2651
Mushroom, the cultivated 473
  Growth of the 476
  How to distinguish the 472
  Ketchup 472
  Localities of the 1126
  Nature of the 478
  Powder 477
  Sauce, brown 474
    very rich and good 479
  white 475-6
  Varieties of the 1125
Mushrooms, baked 1124
  Broiled 1125
  Pickled 478
  Stewed 1127
    in gravy 1128
  To dry 473
    preserve 1126
    procure 1127
Mustard 480
  How to mix 480
  Indian 480
  Tartar 481
Mutton, baked minced 703
  Breast of, boiled 704
     (excellent way to cook a) 709
  Broiled, and tomato sauce 710
  Broth, quickly made 1873
    to make 1872
  Carving 759-63
  China chilo 712
Mutton, chops, broiled 711
  Collops 731
  Curried 713
  Cutlets, of cold 714
    Italian 723
    with mashed potatoes 732
  Dormers 715
  Fillet of, braised 707
  Haricot 716-18
  Hashed 719
  Haunch of, roast 726
    to carve a 759
  Hodge-podge 720
  Irish stew 721-2
    Kidney, broiled 724
  fried 725
  Leg of, boiled 705
    boned and stuffed 706
    braised 708
    roast 727
    to carve a 760
  Loin of, to carve a 761
    roast 728
    rolled 729
  Neck of, boiled 730
    ragoût of 736
    roast 737
  Pie 733-4
  Pudding 735
  Qualities of various 707
  Saddle of, roast 738
  to carve a 762
  Shoulder of, roast 739
    to carve a 763
  Soup, good 175

Nasturtium, uses of the 482
Nasturtiums, pickled 482
Nature and art in nursing 2445-2452
Navet, description of the 1168
Nectar, Welsh 1830
Nectarines, preserved 1562
Needlework 2325
Negus, to make 1835
Nesselrode pudding 1313
Nitric acid 2650
Normandy pippins, stewed 1563
Notice to quit 2716
Noxious trades 2712
Noyeau cream 1452
  Homemade 1825
Nurse, attention to children's dispositions 2401
  Carrying an infant 2398
  Convulsion fits 2406
  Croup 2407
  Dentition 2405
  General duties of the 2402-4
  Habits of cleanliness in children 2400
  Hooping-cough 2408
  Measles and scarlatina 2410-12
  Miss Nightingale's remarks on children 2414-5
  Worms 2409
Nursemaids, upper and under 2397
Nurse, Monthly, age of 2431
Nurse, Monthly, attention to cleanliness
  in the patient's room 2433
  Choice of a 2429
  Doctor's instructions must be observed 2430
  General duties of the 2432
  Infant must not be exposed to light or cold too early 2434
Nurse, Sick, airing the bed 2425
  Attention to food 2427
  Bad smells must be removed 2422
  Cleanliness, necessity of 2421
  Diet suitable to the patient's taste 2428
  Duties of the 2416
  Necessity for pure air in the sick-room 2417
  Night air injurious, a fallacy 2426
  Opening of windows and doors 2418-9
  Patient must not be waked 2424
  Quiet in the patient's room 2423
  Ventilation necessary in febrile cases 2402
Nurse, Wet, abstinence from improper food 2411
  Age of the 2439
  Diet of the 2442
  General remarks on the 2435-8
  Health and morality of the 2440
  Spirits, wines, and narcotics to be avoided 2443
Nutmeg, the 378
Nuts, dish of 1599
  hazel and filbert 1599

Olive and olive oil 506
Omelet, au Thon 1494
  Aux confitures, or jam omelet 1460
  Bachelor's 1462
  Ham 1457
  Kidney 1458
  Plain, sweet 1459
  Soufflé 1461
  The Cure's p. 753
  To make a plain 1456
Onion before the Christian era 139
  History of the 485
  Origin of the 1131
  Properties of the 1130
  Sauce, brown 485
    or Soubise, French 483
    white 484
  Soup 138-9
Onions, burnt, for gravies 1130
  Pickled 486-7
  Spanish, baked 1129
    pickled 527
    stewed 1131
Open jam tart 1365
Opium and its preparations 2662
Orange, and cloves 1565
  Brandy 1826
  Cream 1463-4
  Fritters 1465
  Gravy 483
  In Portugal, the 1565
  Jelly 1454
Orange, jelly, moulded with slices of orange 1455
  Marmalade 1566-7
    an easy way of making 1568
    made with honey 1569
  Pudding, baked 1314
  Salad 1571
  Seville 1464
  Tree, the first in France 1564
  Uses of the 1314
  Wine 1827
Oranges, a pretty dish of 1466
  Compote of 1565
  Iced 1564
  To preserve 1570
Ox, the 176
  Cheek, soup 176
    stewed 638
  Feet, or cowheel, fried 639
  Tail, broiled 652
    soup 177
  Tails, stewed 610
Oxalic acid 2652
Oyster, and scallop 288
  Excellence of the English 291
  Fishery 289
  Forcemeat 489
  Ketchup 490
  Patties 289
  Sauce 492
  Season 197
  Soup 196-7
  The edible 286
Oysters, fried 286
    in batter 291
  Pickled 491
  Scalloped 287
  Stewed 288
  To keep 290

Paint, to remove from silk cloth 2276
Pan kail 140
Panada 420
Pancakes, French 1425
  Richer 1468
  To make 1467
Parsley, and butter 493
  Fried 494
  How used by the ancients 123, 493
  Juice (for colouring various dishes) 495
  To preserve through the winter 496
Parsnip, description of the 141, 1132
  Soup 141
Parsnips, to boil 1132
Partridge, the 178,1039
  Broiled 1035
  Hashed, or salmi de perdrix 1038
  Pie 1036
  Potted 1037
  Roast 1039
  Soup 178
  To carve a 1057
Paste, almond 1220
  Common, for family pies 1207
  French puff, or feuilletage 1208
Paste, medium puff 1206
  Soyer's recipe for puff 1209
  Very good puff 1205
Pastry, and puddings, general observations on 1175-9
  Ramakins to serve with cheese course 1650
  Sandwiches 1318
  To ice or glaze 1334-5
Patties, chicken or fowl 928
  Fried 896
  Lobster 227
  Oyster 289
Pavini cake 1771
Pea, origin of the 1133
  Soup 144
    green 142
    winter, yellow 143
  Sweet and heath or wood 1135
  Varieties of the 143, 1134
Peas, green 1133
    à la Française 1134
    stewed 1135
Peach, and nectarine 1572
  Description of the 1469
  Fritters 1469
Peaches, compote of 1572
  Preserved in brandy 1573
Pear 1574
  Bon Chrétien 1576
Pears, à l'Allemande 1470
  Baked 1574
  Moulded 1471
  Preserved 1575
  Stewed 1576
Pepper, black 369
  Long 399
  Plant, growth of the 516
  White 366
Perch, the 292
  Boiled 292
  Fried 293
  Stewed with wine 294
Pestle and Mortar 421
Petites bouches 1319
Pheasant, the 1041
  Broiled 1043
  Cutlets 1040
  Height of excellence in the 1043
  Roast 1041
  Brillat Savarin's recipe for 1042
  Soup 179
  To carve a 1059
Pickle, an excellent 497
  Beetroot, to 369
  Capsicums, to 385
  Cucumbers, to 399
  For tongues or beef 611
  Gherkins, to 428
  Indian (very superior) 451
  Lemons, to 456
    with the peel on 455
  Mixed 471
  Mushrooms, to 478
  Nasturtiums, to 482
  Onions, to 486-7
    Spanish, to 527
  Oysters, to 491
  Red cabbage, to 493
  Universal 533
  Walnuts, to 534
Pickles of the Greeks and Romans 452
  Keeping 451
Pie, apple, or tart 1233
  Beef-steak 604
  Chicken or fowl 929
  Eel 253
  Fish and oyster 257
  Giblet 966
  Grouse 1024
  Lark 971
  Mince 1311
  Mutton 733-4
  Partridge 1036
  Pigeon 975
  Pork, raised 835
     little 836
  Poultry or game, raised 1340
  Rabbit 981
  Sole or cod 322
  Tench and eel 349
  Veal 897
    and ham 898
      raised 1341
    olive 895
Pig, Guinea 997
  How roast pig was discovered 841
    to silence a 812
  Novel way of recovering a stolen 819
  Sucking, to carve a 842
    roast 841
    to scald 840
  The learned 840
Pig's cheeks, to dry 830
  Face, collared 823
  Fry, to dress 824
  Liver 831
  Pettitocs 832
Pigs, Austrian mode of herding 796
  English mode of hunting and Indian sticking 800
  How pastured and fed formerly 805
Pigeon, the 974
  Barb 976
  Breeding 974
  Carrier 974
  Fantail 976
  House or dovecot, aspect of 974
  Jacobin 976
  Necessity of cleanliness in the 974
  Nun 975
  Owl 976
  Pie 975
  Pouter 973
  Rock 976
  Runt 975
  To carve a 1003
  Trumpeter 975
  Tumbler 975
  Turbit 976
  Wood or wild 975
Pigeons, broiled 973
  Roast 974
  Stewed 970
Pike, the 293
  Baked 296
  Boiled 295
Pineapple 1472, 1478
  Chips 1577
  Fritters 1472
  In Heathendom 1578
  Preserved 1578
    for present use 1579
Pippins, stewed, Normandy 1563
Plaice, the 298
  Fried 297
  Stewed 298
Plate-cleaning 2317-18
Plover, description of the 1044
  To carve a 1066
    dress a 1044
Plovers' eggs 1626
Plum, an excellent pudding 1325
  Cake, common 1768
    nice 1769
  Jam 1580
  Pudding, baked 1324
  Pudding sauce 499
  Tart 1331
Plums 1330
  French, box of 1600
    stewed 1583
  Cultivation of 1582
  Origin of the names of 1580
  Preserved 1581
  To preserve dry 1582
Poisonous food 2665
  Mushrooms 2666
Poisons 2647
  Calomel 2658
  Copper 2659
  Emetic tartar 2656
  Lead, and its preparations 2661
  Opium and its preparations 2662
  Symptoms of having inhaled strong fumes of smelling salts 2655
    swallowed 2618
      alkalis 2654
      arsenic 2656
      corrosive   sublimate 2657
      muriatic acid 2651
      nitric acid 2650
      oxalic acid 2652
      prussic acid 2653
      sulphuric acid 2649
  Syrup of poppies and Godfrey's cordial 2663
  Treatment after taking henbane hemlock, nightshade, or foxglove 2664
Polish tartlets 1320
Pomatum, an excellent 2256
Pork, carving 842
  Cheese 799
  Cutlets 796
  Cutlets or chops 797-8
  Griskin of, roast 827
  Hashed 801
  Leg of, boiled 826
    roast 800
    to carve a 844
  Loin of, roast 829
  Pickled, to boil 834
  Pies 835
    little, raised 836
  Sausages, to make 837
  To pickle 833
Portable soup 180
Potato, the 147
  Analysis of 1138
  As an article of food 1148
  Bread 1141
  Fritters 1474
  Patty 1332
  Properties of the 1137
  Pudding 1333
  Qualities of the 1147
  Rissoles 1147
  Salad 1154
  Snow 1148
  Soup 145-6-7
  Starch 1139
  Sugar 1136
  Uses of the 1140
  Varieties of the 1146
Potatoes, à la maître d'hôtel 1144
  Baked 1136
  Fried, French fashion 1142
  German way of cooking 1143
  How to use cold 1141
  Mashed 1145
  Preserving 1143
  Purée de pommes de terre 1146
  To boil 1137
    in their jackets 1138
    new 1139
  To steam 1140
Potted beef 642-3
  Chicken or fowl 930
  Ham 815
  Hare 1028
  Partridge 1037
  Shrimps 312
  Veal 899
Poulet, à la Marengo 949
  Aux cressons 964
Poultry, in season, January to December _pp_. 33-7
Pound cake 1770
Pounded cheese 1648
Prawn, the 198
  Soup 198
Prawns or shrimps, buttered 313
  To boil 299
  To dress 300
Prescriptions, general remarks on 2580
  Blister, an ordinary 2598
  Clyster 2582
  Draught 2581
    common black 2587
  Drugs, list of, necessary to carry out all instructions 2579
  Liniment 2583
  Lotion 2584
    Goulard 2585
    Opodeldoc 2586
  Mixtures, aperient 2588
    fever 2589
Pills 2592
    compound iron 2591
    myrrh and aloes 2590
  Poultice 2604
    Abernethy's plan for
    making a bread-and-water 2595
    linseed meal 2596
    mustard 2597
  Powders 2593
Preserved, and dried greengages 1553
  Cherries in syrup 1529
  Damsons 1539
    or any other kind of plums 1540
  Ginger 1432
  Greengages in syrup 1554
  Morello cherries 1561
  Mulberries 1560
  Nectarines 1562
  Oranges 1570
  Peaches in brandy 1573
  Pineapple 1578
  Plums 1581
  Pumpkin 1584
  Strawberries in wine 1595
    whole 1596
Preserves, general observations on 1495, 1507
Primitive ages, simplicity of the 63-4
Prince of Wales soup 148
Property law 2696-8
Prussic acid 2653
Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045
  To carve a 1064
  To dress a 1045
Pudding, Alma 1237
  Almond, baked 1221
    small 1222
  Apple, baked, very good 1231
      economical 1229
      rich 1228
    boiled 1232
    iced 1290
    rich sweet 1230
  Apricot, baked 1238
  Arrowroot, baked or boiled 1249
  Asparagus 1089
  Aunt Nelly's 1224
  Bachelor's 1241
  Bakewell 1242-3
  Baroness 1244
  Batter, baked 1246
      with dried or fresh fruit 1247
    boiled 1248
  Beefsteak and kidney 605
    baked 600
  Bread, baked 1250
    boiled 1252
    brown 1253
  Bread, miniature 1254
    very plain 1251
  Bread-and-butter, baked 1255
  Cabinet, or chancellor's 1256
  plain, or boiled bread-and-butter 1257
  Canary 1258
  Carrot, baked or boiled 1259
  Christmas, for children, plain 1327
    plum 1328
  Cold 1262
  College 1263
  Currant, black or red 1266
    boiled 1265
  Custard, baked 1268
    boiled 1269
  Damson 1271
  Delhi 1272
  Empress 1273
  Exeter 1274
  Fig 1275
    Staffordshire recipe 1276
  Folkestone pudding pies 1277
  German 1279
    or Dampfnudeln 1280
  Ginger 1281
  Golden 1282
  Gooseberry, baked 1283
    boiled 1284
  Half-pay 1286
  Herodotus 1287
  Hunter's 1288
  Iced 1289
  Lemon, baked 1295-7
    boiled 1298
    plain 1299
  Macaroni, sweet 1301
  Manchester 1300
  Manna kroup 1302
  Mansfield 1303
  Marlborough 1304
  Marmalade and vermicelli 1305
  Marrow, boiled or baked 1307
  Military 1308
  Monday's 1312
  Mutton 735
  Nesselrode 1313
  Orange, baked 1314
  batter 1249
  Paradise 1322
  Pease 1323
  Plum, an excellent 1325
    baked 1324
    fresh fruit 1330
  Potato 1333
  Pound, plum 1329
    an unrivalled 1326
  Quickly made 1366
  Raisin, baked 1336
    boiled 1337
  Rhubarb, boiled 1338
  Rice, baked 1342
      more economical 1343
    boiled with dried and fresh fruit 1345-6
    French, or gâteau de riz 1352
    ground, boiled or baked 1353
    iced 1354
    miniature 1355
    plain, boiled 1344
  Roly-poly jam 1291
  Royal Coburg 1260
  Sago 1367
  Semolina, baked 1369
  Somersetshire 1374
  Suet, to serve with roast meat 1375
  Tapioca 1370
  Treacle, rolled 1372
  Toad-in-the-hole 672
    of cold meat 743
  Vermicelli 1377
  Vicarage 1378
  West Indian 1382
  Yorkshire 1384
Puddings and pastry, directions for making 1180, 1204
  general observations on 1175-1179
Puits d'amour, or puff-paste rings 1321
Pumpkin, preserved 1584
Punch 1839
  To make hot 1839
Purchasing a house 2695-98

Quadrupeds, general observations on 585, 597
Quail, description of the 1046
  To carve a 1065
  To dress a 1046
Queen-cakes 1773
Quenelles à tortue 189
  Veal 422
Quince, the 1233
  Jelly 1585
  Marmalade 1586
  Quin's sauce 500

Rabbit, à la minute 980
  Angora 985
  Boiled 977
  Common wild 978
  Curried 978
  Fecundity of the 981
  Fried 979
  Habitat of the 977
  Hare 985
  Himalaya 985
  House 982
  Hutch 983
  Pie 981
  Ragoût of, or hare 982
  Roast or baked 983
  Soup 181
  Stewed 984
    in milk 1874
    larded 985
  To carve a 1004
  Varieties of the 979
Rabbits, fancy 984
Radish, varieties of the 1152
Raised pie, of poultry or game 1340
  Pork 835-6
  Veal and ham 1841
Raisin, the 1327
Raisins, cheese 1587
  Grape 1324
  Pudding, baked 1336
    boiled 1337
Ramakins, pastry 1650
  To serve with cheese course 1649
Raspberry, and currant salad 1592
    tart 1267
  Cream 1175
  Jam 1588
  Jelly 1589
  Vinegar 1828
Raspberries, red and white 1267
Ratafias 1745
Ravigotte, a French salad sauce 501
Reading sauce 502
Rearing by hand 2497-8
Rearing, management, and diseases of infancy and childhood 2415-2577
Receipts 2730
Regency soup 182
Rémoulade, or French salad dressing 503
Rent, recovery of 2719-22
Rhubarb, and orange jam 1591
  Description of 1339
  Jam 1590
  Pudding, boiled 1338
  Tart 1339
  Wine 1829
Ribbons, or silk, to clean 2275
Rice, and apples 1400
  Biscuits or cakes 1746
  Blancmange 1476
  Boiled for curries 1347
  Bread 1720
  Buttered 1349
  Cake 1772
  Casserole of, savoury 1350
    sweet 1351
  Croquettes 1477
  Esteemed by the ancients 1349
  Fritters 1478
  Ground 1746
    boiled 1353
  Iced 1354
  Indian, origin of 150
  Milk 1875
  Paddy 1347
  Pudding, baked 1342
      more economical 1343
    boiled 1345
      plain 1344
      with dried or fresh fruit 1346
    French, or gâteau de riz 1352
  Miniature 1355
  Qualities of 1342
  Snowballs 1479
  Soufflé 1480
  Soup 150-1
  To boil for curries 1348
  Varieties of 1345
Ringworm, cure for 2667
  Alterative powders for 2668
Rinsing 2379
Rissoles, beef 465
Roach, the 243
Roasting, age of 65
  Memoranda in 657
Rock biscuits 1747
Rolls, excellent 1723
  Fluted 1317
  Hot 1724
  Meat, or sausage 1373
Roux, brown, for thickening sauces 525
  White, 526
Rusks, Italian 1733
  To make 1734

Sage 427
  And onion stuffing 501
Sago, alimentary properties of 1367
  How procured 152
  Pudding 1367
  Sauce for sweet puddings 1368
  Soup 152
Salad, a poetic recipe for 508
  Boiled 1151
  Chicken 931
  Dressing 506-8
    French 503
  Grouse 1026
  Lobster 272
  Orange 1571
  Potato 1154
  Scarcity of, in England 505
  Summer 1152
  Winter 1153
Salads 1153
Salmi de perdrix, or hashed partridge 1038
Salmon, à la Genevese 307
  And caper sauce 302
  Aversion of the 309
  Boiled 301
  Collared 303
  Crimped 304
  Curried 305
  Cutlets 306
  Growth of the 305
  Habitat of the 303
  Migratory habits of the 302
  Pickled 308
  Potted 309
  To carve _p._ 175
    choose 301
    cure 308
  Tribe 304
Salsify, description of 1149
  To dress 1149
Salt, action of on meat 607
  Common 403
  Fish 233
  Meat, Soyer's recipe for preserving the gravy in 609
Sandwiches, of cheese 1611
  Pastry 1318
  Toast 1877
  Victoria 1491
Sauce, à l'Aurore 511
  A la matelote 512
  Allemande, or German sauce 509
  Anchovy, for fish 362

Sauce, apple, brown 364
    for geese or pork 363
  Aristocratique 510
  Arrowroot, for puddings 1356
  Asparagus 365
  Béchamel, or French white sauce 367
    maigre 368
  Benton 370
  Beurre noir, or browned butter, a French sauce 374
  Bread 371-2
  Browning for 373
  Butter, melted 376-7
      made with milk 380
      maitre d'hôtel 465
    thickened 379
  Camp vinegar 381
  Caper, for boiled mutton 382
    for fish 383
    a substitute for 384
  Celery, for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387
    a more simple recipe 388
  Cherry, for sweet puddings 1357
  Chestnut, brown 391
    for turkey or fowls 390
  Chili vinegar 393
  Christopher North's, for game or meat 394
  Consommé, or white stock for 395
  Crab, for fish 396
  Cream, for fish or white dishes 397
  Cucumber 398
    white 400
  Custard, for sweet puddings or tart 404
  Dutch, for fish 405
    green, or Hollandaise verte 406
  Egg, for salt fish 409
  Epicurean 410
  Espagnole, or brown Spanish 411
  Fennel, for mackerel 412
  Fish 413
  For boiled puddings 514
    steaks 516
    wildfowl 519
  Genevese, for salmon, trout, &c. 427
  Gooseberry, for boiled mackerel 429
  Green, for green geese or ducklings 431
  Horseradish 447
  Hot spice 524
  Indian chetney 452
  Italian, brown 453
    white 454
  Leamington 459
  Lemon, for boiled fowls 457
    for fowls and fricassees, white 458
    for sweet puddings 1358
  Liaison of eggs for thickening 461
  Liver and lemon, for poultry 462
    parsley 463
  Lobster 464
  Maigre maître d'hôtel (hot) 467
  Maître d'hôtel (hot) 466
  Mango chetney (Bengal recipe) 392
  Mayonnaise 468
  Melted butter 376-8
  Mint 469
  Mushroom, a very rich and good 479
    brown 474
    ketchup 472
    white 475-6
  Onion, brown 485
    French, or Soubise 483
    white 484
  Oyster 492
  Parsley and butter 493
  Piquante 513
  Plum-pudding 499
  Quin's (an excellent fish-sauce) 500
  Ravigotte 501
  Reading 502
  Robert 515
  Sago, for sweet puddings 1368
  Shrimp 522
  Soyer's, for plum-puddings 1359
  Store, or Cherokee 528
  Sweet, for puddings 1360
    venison 518
  Thickening for 525-6
  Tomato 529-32
  Tournée 517
  Vanilla custard 1361
  Wine, excellent for puddings 1362
    for puddings 1364
    or brandy 1363
    white 537-9
Sauces and gravies, in the Middle Ages 433
  Manufacture of 510
  Pickles, gravies, and forcemeats, remarks on 354, 361
Saucer-cakes, for tea 1774
Sausage, meat cakes 839
  Meat stuffing 520
  Or meat rolls 1373
Sausages, beef 662
  Pork, fried 838
    to make 837
  Veal 904
Savory 446
Savoury jelly for meat pies 521
Savoy, the 140
  Biscuits or cakes 1748
  Cake 1782
Scarlatina, or scarlet fever 2560-3
Scotch, collops 870
      white 871
  Eggs 1666
  Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1651
  Shortbread 1780
  Woodcock 1653
Scrap cakes 1779
Scratches 2669
Sea-bream, the 310
  baked 310
    Mr. Yarrell's recipe 310
  Kale, description of 1150
  To boil 1150
Seed, biscuits 1749
  Cake, common 1775
    very good 1776
Semolina, pudding, baked 1369
  Qualities of 153
  Soup 153
  Uses of 1369
Shad, the 311
  To dress 311
Shalot, or Eschalot 410
Sheep, the 175
  General observations on the 678, 697
  Poets on the 730
Sheep's brains, en matelote 740
  Feet, or trotters 741
  Head, to dress 742
    singed 742
Shepherd, the Ettrick 739
  The Good 705
Shepherds and their flocks 710
Sherry 1416
  Pale 1426
Shortbread, Scotch 1780
Shrimp, the 313
  Sauce 522
Shrimps, or prawns, buttered 313
    to boil 299
  Potted 312
Sick-rooms, caution in visiting 2692
Sirloin, origin of the word 659
Skate, the 315
  Boiled 314
  Crimped 315
  Small, fried 317
  Species of 317
  To choose 315
  With caper sauce (à la Française) 316
Smelt, the 319
  Odour of the 318
Smelts, to bake 318
  To fry 319
Snipe, description of the 1047
Snipes, to carve 1060
  To dress 1047
Snow cake 1777-8
  Eggs, or oeufs à la neige 1482
Snowballs, apple 1235
  Rice 1479
Soda, biscuits 1751
  Bread 1722
  Cake 1781
  Carbonate of 1765
Sole, the 320
  Flavour of the 324
  Or cod pie 322
Soles, a favourite dish of the ancient Greeks 323
  Baked 320
  Boiled 321
    or fried, to carve _p._ 175
  Filleted, à l'Italienne 324
  Fricasseed 325
  Fried 327
    filleted 326
  How caught 325
  To choose 320
  With cream sauce 323
  mushrooms 328
Sorrel 131
  Qualities of 431
Soufflé, apple 1402
  Chocolate 1427
  Omelette 1461
  Rice 1480
  To make a 1481
Soufflés, general observations on 1388
Soup, à la cantatrice 119
    Crecy 126
    Flamande 129-30
    Julienne 131
    Reine 183-4
    Solferino 154
  Almond 110
  Apple 111
  Artichoke, Jerusalem 112
  Asparagus 113-14
  Baked 115
  Barley 116
  Bread 117
  Brilla 166
  Broth and bouillon, general remarks on 91-5
  Cabbage 118
  Calf's head 167
  Carrot 120-1
  Celery 122
  Chantilly 123
  Chemistry and economy of making 96, 103
  Chestnut, Spanish 124
  Cock-a Leekie 134
  Cocoa-nut 125
  Crayfish 193
  Cucumber 127
  Eel 194
  Egg 128
  Family, a good 190
  Fish, stock 192
  General directions for making 88
  Giblet 168
  Gravy 169
  Hare 170
  Hessian 171
  Hodge-podge 191
  In season, January to December _pp._ 57, 104
  Kale brose 132
  Leek 133
  Lobster 195
  Macaroni 135
  Maigre 136
  Making, the chemistry of 96-103
  Milk 137
  Mock-turtle 172-3
  Mutton, good 175
  Ox-cheek 176
  Ox-tail 177
  Oyster 196-7
  Pan kail 140
  Parsnip 141
  Partridge 178
  Pea, green 144
    inexpensive 142
    winter, yellow 143
  Pheasant 179
  Portable 180
  Potage printanier 149
  Potato 145-7
  Prawn 198
  Prince of Wales 148
  Rabbit 181
  Regency 182
  Rice 150-1
  Sago 152
  Seasonings for 90
  Semolina 153
  Spanish chestnut 124
  Spinach 155
  Spring 149
  Stew 186-7
   of salt meat 185
  Tapioca 156
  Turkey 188
  Turnip 157
  Turtle 189
  Useful for benevolent purposes 165
  Vegetable 159-161
   marrow 158
  Vermicelli 162-3
  White 164
Sow, Berkshire 781
  Chinese 785
  Cumberland 784
  Essex 782
  Price of, in Africa 816
  Yorkshire 783
Soy 497
Soyer's recipe for goose stuffing 505
Spanish onions pickled 527
Spiced beef 665
Spinach, description of 1156
  Dressed with cream, à la Française 1156
  French mode of dressing 1157
  Green, for colouring dishes 523
  Soup 155
  To boil, English mode 1155
  Varieties of 155, 1155
Sponge cake 1783
  Small, to make 1785
  Lemon 1448
Sprains 2671
Sprat, the 331
Sprats 329
  Dried 331
  Fried in batter 330
Sprouts 1096
  Boiled, Brussels 1096
  To boil young greens, or 1097
Stables and coach-house 2204
  Heat of 2205
Stains of syrup, or preserved fruits,
  to remove 2273
Stalls 2207
Stammering 2673
  Cure for 2672
Stamp duties 2742
Starch, to make 2391-2
Starching 2390
Stew soup 185-7
Stilton cheese 1639
Stock, browning for 108
Stock, cow-heel 1412
  Economical 106
  For gravies, general 432
  For jelly 1411
  Medium 105
  Rich strong 104
  To clarify 109
  White 107
Stomach, digestion 2457-9
Stone cream 1483
Store sauce, or Cherokee 528
Strawberry, jam 1594
  Jelly 1484
  Name of, among the Greeks 1381
  Origin of the name 1365
Strawberries, and cream 1593
  Dish of 1606
  To preserve whole 1596
    in wine 1595
Stuffing, for geese, ducks, pork, &c 504
  Sausage meat for turkey 520
  Soyer's recipe for 505
Sturgeon, the 332
  Baked 332
  Estimate of, by the ancients 333
  Roast 333
Stye in the eye 2630
Substitute for milk and cream 1815
Sucking-pig, to carve 842
  To roast 841
    scald 840
Suffocation, apparent 2674
  Carbonic acid gas, choke-damp of mines 2675
Sugar, and beetroot 1211
  Cane 1334
  French 1211
  Icing for cakes 1736
  Introduction of 1336
  Potato 1136
  Qualities of 1212
  To boil to caramel 1514
Sulphuric acid 2649
Sultana grape 1326
Suppers 2139-41
Sweetbreads, baked 906
  Fried 907
  Stewed 908
Sweet dishes, general observations on 1385-8
Swine, flesh of, in hot climates 835
Swineherds of antiquity 836
  Saxon 838
Swiss cream 1485
Syllabub, to make 1486
  Whipped 1493
Syrup, for compotes, to make 1512
  Lemon 1822
  Of poppies 2663
  To clarify 1513

Tails, strange 652
Tapioca pudding 1370
  Soup 156
  Wholesomeness of 156, 1370
Tart, apple creamed 1234
  Apricot 1239
  Barberry, 1245
  Cherry 1261
  Damson 1270
  Gooseberry 1285
  Plum 1331
  Raspberry and currant 1267
  Rhubarb 1339
  Strawberry, or any other kind
    of preserve, open 1365
Tartlets 1371
  Polish 1320
Tarragon 503
Taxes 2714
Tea 1814
  And coffee 1813
  Miss Nightingale's opinion on the use of 1864
  To make 1814
Teacakes 1786
  To toast 1787
Teal, to carve 1067
  To roast a 1048
Teething 2510-18
Tenancy, by sufferance 2701
  General remarks on 2717
Tench, the 334
  And eel-pie 349
  Matelote of 334
  Singular quality in the 335
  Stewed with wine 335
Terms used in cookery, French 87
Thrush and its treatment 2523-37
Thyme 166
Tipsy-cake 1487
  an easy way of making 1488
Toad-in-the-hole 672
  of cold meat 743
Toast, and water, to make 1876
  Sandwiches 1877
  Tea-cakes, to 1787
  To make dry 1725
    hot buttered 1726
Toffee, Everton, to make 1597
Tomato, analysis of the 1159
  Extended cultivation of the 1160
  Immense importance in cookery 1153
  Sauce 529
    for keeping 530-2
  Stewed 1159-60
  Uses of the 629, 528, 2690
Tomatoes, baked, excellent 1158
Tongue, boiled 673
  Pickle for 641
  To cure 674-5
  To pickle and dress to eat cold 676
Tongues of animals 675
Toothache, cure for the 2678-9
Tourte apple or cake 1236
Treacle, or molasses, description of 1224
  Pudding, rolled 1372
Trifle, apple 1404
  Gooseberry 1434
  Indian 1436
  To make a 1489
Tripe, to dress 677
Trout, the 336
  Stewed 336
Truffle, the common 1161
  Impossibility of regular culture of the 1162
  Uses of the 1164
Truffles, à l' Italienne 1164
  Au naturel 1161
  Italian mode of dressing 1163
  To dress with champagne 1162
  Where found 1163
Turbot, the 333
  À la crême 341
  Ancient Romans' estimate of the 340
  Au gratin 342
  Boiled 337
  Fillet of, baked 339
    a l'Italienne 340
  Garnish for, or other large fish 338
  To carve a _p_. 175
  To choose 338
Turkey, boiled 986
  Croquettes of 987
  Difficult to rear the 188
  Disposition of the 988
  English 990
  Feathers of the 991
  Fricasseed 988
  Habits of the 988
  Hashed 989
  Hunting 989
  Native of America 986
  Or fowl, to bone without opening 992-4
  Poults, roast 991

  Roast 990
    Stuffing for 520
  Soup 188
  To carve a roast 1005
   Wild 987
Turnip greens boiled 1169
  Or the French navet 1168
  Qualities of the 1167
  Soup 157
  Uses of the 1165
  Whence introduced 157
Turnips, boiled 1165
  German mode of cooking 1167
  In white sauce 1168
  Mashed 1166
Turnovers, fruit 1278
Turtle, mock 172-3
  Soup, cost of 189
  The green 189

Valet, cleaning clothes 2239
  Duties of the 2234-8, 2242
  Polish for boots 2240-1
Vanilla cream 1490
  Custard sauce 1361
Vanille or Vanilla 1490
Veal, a la bourgeoise 869
  And ham pie 898
  Baked 856
  Breast of, roast 857
    stewed and peas 858
    to carve 912
  Cake 859
  Collops 879
    Scotch 870
Veal, collops, Scotch, white 871
  Colour of 861
  Curried 865
  Cutlets 866
    à la Maintenon 868
    broiled 867
  Dinner, a very 897
  Fillet of, au Béchamel 883
    roast 872
    stewed 873
    to carve a 914
  Frenchman's opinion of 911
  Fricandeau of 874-5
  Knuckle of, ragoût 884
    stewed 885
    to carve a 915
  Loin of au Daube 888
    au Béchamel 887
    roast 886
    to carve 916
  Manner of cutting up 854
  Minced 891-892
    and macaroni 891
  Neck of, braised 893
    roast 894
  Olive pie 895
  Patties, fried 896
  Pie 897
  Potted 899
  Quenelles 422
  Ragoût of, cold 900
  Rissoles 901
  Rolls 902
  Sausages 904
  Season and choice of 908
  Shoulder of 903
  Stewed 905
    tendons de veau 909-10
  Tète de veau en tortue 911
Vegetable, a variety of the goard 158
  Fried 1171
  Marrow, a tropical plant 1171
    boiled 1170
    in white sauce 1173
  Soup 158, 159-61
Vegetables, acetarious 1151
  And herbs, various 89
  Cut for soups 1172
  General observations on 1069, 1079
  Reduced to purée 1166
  In season, January to December _pp_. 33-7
Venison 1049
  Antiquity of, as food 444
  Hashed 1050
  Haunch of, roast 1049
  Sauce for 518
  Stewed 1051
  The new 1051
  To carve 1061
Ventilation, necessity of, in rooms lighted with gas 2693
  of stables 2206
Vermicelli 162, 1377
  Pudding 1377
  Soup 162-3
Vicarage pudding 1378
Victoria sandwiches 1491
Vinegar, camp. 381
  Cayenne 385
  Celery 389
  Chili 393
  Cucumber 401
  Gooseberry 1820
  Horseradish 418
  Mint 470
  Raspberry 1828
  Use of, by the Romans 451
Vol-au-vent, an entrée 1379
  Of fresh strawberries with whipped cream 1381
  Sweet, with fresh fruit 1380

Wafers, Geneva 1431
Walnut, the 536
  Ketchup 535-6
Walnuts, pickled 534
  Properties of the 1599
  To have fresh throughout the season 1607
Warts 2680
Washing 2377-8
  Coloured muslins, &c. 2380
  Flannels 2381
  Greasy cloths 2382
  Satin and silk ribbons 2384
  Silks 2385
Water, rate 2715
  Souchy 352-3
  Supply of in Rome 1216
  Warm 2691
  What the ancients thought of 1214
Wax, to remove 2272
Welsh, nectar 1830
  Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1652
West-Indian pudding 1382
Wheat, diseases of 1779
  Egyptian or mummy 1783
  Polish and Pomeranian 1722
  Red varieties of 1719
Wheatear, the 996
Wheatears, to dress 996
Whipped, cream 1492
  Syllabubs 1493
Whisky cordial 1840
Whitebait 348
  To dress 348
Whiting, the 343
  Au gratin, or baked 346
  Aux fines herbes 347
  Buckhorn 344
  Boiled 343
  Broiled 344
  Fried 345
  Pout and pollack 347
  To carve a _p_. 176
    choose 343
Whitlow, to cure a 2681
Widgeon, to carve a 1068
  Roast 1052
Will, attestation of a 2757
  Advice in making a 2756
  Witnesses to a 2746, 2758
Wills 2732-38
  Form of 2740-1
Wine, cowslip 1817
  Elder 1818
  Ginger 1819
  Gooseberry, effervescing 1821
  Lemon 1823
  Malt 1824
  Orange 1827
  Rhubarb 1829
  To mull 1838
Wire-basket 494
Witnesses 2739-51
Woodcock, description of the 1053
  Scotch 1653
  To carve a 1062
Woodcock, to roast a 1053
Woollen manufactures 737
Woollens 2284
Worms 2409
Wounds 2682
  Incised, or cuts 2683, 2686
  Lacerated or torn 2684, 2687
  Punctured or penetrating 2685, 2688

Yeast 1383
  Cake, nice 1788
  Dumplings 1383
  Kirkleatham 1717
  To make, for bread 1716
Yorkshire pudding 1384




ENGRAVINGS.

Almond and blossom 110
  Puddings 1222
Almonds and raisins 1598
Anchovy 226
Apple, and blossom 1226
  Compote of 1515
  Jelly stuck with almonds 1395
Apples, dish of 1598
Arrowroot 387
Artichoke, cardoon 1080
  Jerusalem 1084
Artichokes 1080
Asparagus 114
  On toast 1087
  Tongs 1087

Bacon, boiled 804
  For larding, and needles 828
Bain Marie 430
Bantams, black 939
  Feather-legged 958
Barbel 229
Barberry 1245
Barley 116
Basil 417
Basin, pudding 1200
Basket, wire 494
Bay, the 512
Bean, broad 1092
  French 1151
  Haricot 1120
  Scarlet runner 1090
Beef, aitchbone of 677
  Brisket of, to carve a 677
  Collared 617
  Ribs of, to carve a 677
  Round of, to carve a 677
Beef, side of, showing the several joints 595
  Sirloin of 659
    " to carve a 677
  Steak pie 604
  Tongue 675
    " to carve a 677
Beetroot 1094
Birds 917
Blackcock 1019
  Roast 1019
    " to carve a 1054
Blacking-brush box 2342
Blancmange 1409
  Mould for 1408, 1442
Boar, Westphalian 787
Bread, &c. 1658
  Loaf of, cottage 1718
  Tin 1718
Brill, the 230
Brocoli 1095
  Boiled 1095
Broom, carpet 2293
  Long hair 2306
Brush, banister 2302
  Cornice 2327
  Crumb 2321
  Dusting 2327
  Furniture 2310
  Plate 2317
  Scrubbing 2306
  Staircase 2302
  Stove 2294
Buns 1731
Butler's tray and stand 2315
Butter, dish 1632
  Dish of, rolled 1634

Cabbage, seeding 118
Cake-moulds 1756,1761,1772
Calf, side of, showing the several joints 854
Calf's-head 877
  Half a 877
  To carve a 913
Calves 845
  Sweetbreads of 906
Caper, the 383
Capercalzie, the 1026
Capsicum, the 362
Carp, the 242
Carpet brooms 2293
Carrots 1100
Cauliflower, the 1104
  Boiled 1104
Celery 441
  In glass 1107
Char, the 243
Charlotte aux pommes 1418
Cheese glass 1640
  Hot-water dish for 1651
  Stilton 1639
Cherry 1261
Chervil 1151
Chestnut 124
Chocolate, box of 1598
  Milk 1807
Christmas pudding, &c. 1175
Chub, the 243
Cinnamon 524
Citron, the 1436
Claret-cup 1831
Clove, the 367
Coal, sections of 73
Cocoa-bean 1815
  Nut and blossom 125
    " palm 125
Cod, the 231
Cod's head and shoulders, to carve 174
Coffee 1811
Colander, ancient 68
  Modern 68
Coriander 174
Cork, with wooden top 446
Cow and bull, Alderney 592
  Galloway 593
  Long-horn 591
  Short-horn 590
Crab, the 245
Crayfish 193
Cream-mould 1430
Crumpets 1728
Cucumber, the 402,1111
  Slice 1152
  Sliced 1111
Currants 1266
  Zante 1264
Custards, in glasses 1423
Cygnet 998

Dace, the 243
Damson, the 1270
Deer, the 444
  Eland, bull and cow 1051
  Fallow, buck and doe 1050
  Roebuck 1051
  The stag and hind 1051
Dessert 1495
  Dishes 1598
Dish, baking 551
  Pie 1190
  Sussex pudding 695
Dripping-pan, ancient 68
  Modern 68
  And basting-ladle 580
Duck, Aylesbury 935
  Bowbill 936
  Buenos Ayres 933
  Call 937
  Roast 934
    " to carve a 999
  Rouen 934
  Wild 1022
    " roast 1022
      " " to carve a 1055

Eel, the 249
Egg poacher, tin 1663
  Stand for breakfast-table 1656
Eggs, basket of 1667
  Comparative sizes of 1665
  Fried on bacon 1659
  Poached, on toast 1663
Elder-berries 1818
Endive 169
Ewe, heath 690
  Leicester 682
  Romney-Marsh 691
  South-Down 687

Fennel 412
Figs, compote of 1541
Fish 199
Flounders 259
Flowers and fruit 61, 103, 584, 925
Fowl, black bantams 939
  Black Spanish 962
  Boiled 938
   " to carve a 1000
  Cochin-China 942
  Dorking 940
  Feather-legged bantams 958
  Game 938
  Guinea 970
  Pencilled Hamburgs 965
  Roast 952
    " to carve a 1001
  Sebright bantams 961
  Spangled Polands 941
  Speckled Hamburgs 959
  Sultans 963
Fritter mould, star 1473
  Scroll 1474
Fruit, dish of, mixed 1598
  Dish of, mixed summer 1598

Game 1006
Garlic 392
Gherkins 428
Ginger 407
Gingerbread 1760
Glass measure, graduated 77
Goose, Emden 968
  Roast 1002
    " to carve a 1002
  Toulouse 969
Gooseberry 429
Grape, raisin 1324
  Sultana 1326
Gridiron, ancient 68
  Modern 68
  Revolving 569
Grouse, red 1025
  Roast 1025
    " to carve a 1058
Gudgeon, the 261
Gurnet, the 262

Haddock, the 263
Ham, boiled 811
  To carve 843
Hare, the common 170, 1027
  Roast 1027
    " to carve a 1056
Herring, the 268
Horseradish 447
Hotplate 568
Housemaid's box 2294

Ice-pail and spattle 1290
Ices, dish of 1556

Jack-bottle 580
Jam-pot 1532
Jar-potting 642
Jellies, &c 1385
Jelly, bag 1411
  Mould 1411, 1416
    " oval 1449
  Moulded with cherries 1440
  Of two colours 1441
  Open with whipped cream 1453
John Dory 248

Kettle, glaze 430
  Fish 225
  Gravy 432
Kidneys 724
Knife-cleaning machine 5123

Lamb, fore-quarter of 750
      " " to carve a 764
  Leg of 752
  Loin of 753
  Ribs of 754
  Saddle of 754
  Side of 701
Lamprey, the 256
Landrail, the 1033
Leaf in puff paste 1245
  Pastry 1492
Leeks 134
Lemon, the 405, 1296
  Cream mould 1443
  Dumplings 1294
Lentil, the 126
Lettuce, the 136
Lobster, the 270

Macaroni 135
Macaroons 1744
Mace 371
Mackerel, the 281
Maize, ear of 1721
  Plant 1721
Marjoram 415
Marrow-bones 635
Milking cow 1608
Millet, Italian 1718
  Panicled 1733
Mince pies 1311
Mint 469
Mould, baked pudding or cake 1329
  Blancmange 1408, 1442
  Boiled pudding 1196-8
  Cake 1756, 1764, 1772
  Cream 1430
  For Christmas plum-pudding 1328
  For an open tart 1365
  Iced pudding 1289
  Jelly 1411, 1416
    " oval 1449
  Lemon cream 1443
  Open 1454, 1463
  Raised pie, closed and open 1190
  Raspberry cream 1475
  Vanilla cream 1490
Muffins 1727
Mulberry, the 1560
Mullet, grey 284
  Striped red 285
Mushroom, the 473
Mushrooms 1125
  Broiled 1125
Mustard 450
Mutton, cutlets 732
  Haunch of 726
    " to carve a 759
  Leg of 727
    " to carve a 760
  Loin of 728
    " to carve a 761
  Neck of 737
  Saddle of 738
    " to carve a 762
  Side of, showing the several joints 695
  Shoulder of 739
    " to carve a 763

Nasturtiums 482
Nutmeg, the 378
Nuts, dish of 1598

Olive, the 506
Omelet 1456
  Pan 1458
Onion, the 139
Orange, the 1314
Oranges, compote of 1565
Oyster, edible 286

Pail, house 2327
Pancakes 1467
Parsley 493
Parsnip, the 1132
Partridge, the 1039
  Roast 1039
    " to carve a 1057
Baste, board and rolling-pin 1186
  Cutter and corner-cutter 1189
  Ornamental cutter 1189
  Pincers and jagger 1186
Patty-pans, plain and fluted 1190
Pea, the 143
Peach, the 1469
Pear, bon Chrétien 1576
Pears, stewed 1576
Peas, green 1135
Pepper, black 369
  Long 399
Perch, the 292
Pestle and Mortar 421
Pheasant, the 1041
  Roast 1041
    " to carve a 1059
Pickle, Indian 551
Pie, raised 1340
Pig, Guinea 997
  Roast, sucking 841
      " " to carve a 842
Pig's face 823
Pigs 765
Pigeon, barb 976
  Blue rock 976
  Carrier 974
  Fantail 976
  Jacobin 976
  Nun 975
  Owl 976
  Pouter 973
  Roast 974
  Runt 975
  To carve a 1003
  Trumpeter 975
  Tumbler 975
  Turbit 976
  Wood 975
Pike, the 295
Pimento 438
Plaice, the 298
Plover, the 1044
Plum, the 1330
Pork, fore loin of 829
  Griskin of 827
  Hind loin of 829
  Leg of, to carve a 844
    " roast 800
  Side of, showing joints 795
  Spare rib of 827
Pot, boiling 567
Potato, the 147
  Pasty pan 1333
  Rissoles 1147
  Sweet 1146
Potatoes, baked, served in napkin 1136
Pound cake 1770
Prawn, the 198
Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045
Pudding, boiled fruit 1284
  Cabinet 1286
Punch-bowl and ladle 1839

Quadrupeds 585
Quail, the 1046
Quern, or grinding-mill 117
Quince, the 1233

Rabbit, Angora 983
  Boiled 977
    " to carve a 1004
  Hare, the 985
  Himalaya 985
  Lop-eared 984
  Roast 983
    " to carve a 1004
  Wild 978
Radish, long 1152
  Turnip 1152
Raisin, grape 1324
Ram, heath 689
  Leicester 688
  Romney-Marsh and ewe 691
  South-down and ewe 687
Range, modern 65
Raspberry, the 1267
  Cream mould 1475
Ratafias 1745
Rhubarb 1339
Rice, casserole of 1350
  Ears of 150
Roach, the 243
Rolls 1723
Rusks 1734

Sage 427
Sago palm 152
Salad, in bowl 1152
Salmon, the 304
  To carve a _p._ 175
Salt-mine at Northwich 403
Saucepan, ancient 68
  Modern 68
Sauce tureen, boat, &c. 354
Sausages, fried 838
Sauté-pan 571
  Ancient 68
  Modern 68
Scales, ancient and modern 70
Screen, meat 582
Sea-bream, the 310
Sea-kale 1150
  Boiled 1150
Shad, the 311
Shalot, the 410
Sheep 678
  Heath ram 689
    " ewe 690
  Romney-Marsh ram and ewe 691
  South-Down ram and ewe 687
Shortbread 1780
Shrimp, the 313
Skate, thornback 315
Snipe, the 1047
  Roast 1047
    " to carve a 1060
Sole, the 320
Sorrel 431
Soufflé pan 1481
Sow, and pigs 765
  Berkshire 781
  Chinese 785
  Cumberland 784
  Essex 782
  Yorkshire 783
Spinach 155
  Garnished with croûtons 1155
Sponge cake 1783
Sprat, the 331
Sprouts, Brussels 1098
Stewpan 567
Stock-pot, ancient 66
  Bronze 66
 Modern 66
Stove, gas 575
  Family kitchener 65
  Leamington 65, 540
  Pompeiian 65
Strawberries, dish of 1598
Sturgeon, the 332
Sugar-cane, the 1335
Sultana grape, the 1326
Swans 54

Tarragon 503
Tart, open 1365
  Open mould for a 1365
  Plum 1331
Tartlets, dish of 1371
Tazza and carrot leaves 121
Tea 1814
Teacakes 1787
Tench, the 334
Thyme, lemon 458
Tipsy cake 1487
Tomato, the 529
Tomatoes, stewed 1159
Trifle 1489
Trout, the 336
Truffles 1161
Turbot, the 338
  Kettle 338
  To carve a 176
Tureen, soup 88
Turkey, boiled 986
  Roast 990
    " to carve a 1005
Turnip 157
Turnips 1165
Turret on old Abbey kitchen 62
Turtle, the 189

Urns, Loysell's hydrostatic 1810
Utensils for cooking, ancient and modern 66-8

Vanilla cream mould 1490
Veal, breast of 857
  " to carve a 912
  Cutlets 866
  Fillet of 872
    " to carve a 914
  Knuckle of 885
    " to carve a 915
  Loin of 885
    " to carve a 916
Vegetable, cutter 1173
  Strips of 131
Vegetable marrow 158
  In white sauce 1173
  On toast 1170
Vegetables 1069
  Cellular development of 1075
  Siliceous cuticles of 1075
Venison, haunch of 1061
    " roast 1049
    " to carve a 1061
Vermicelli 162
Vessels for beverages 1789
Vol-au-vent 1379
  Small 1379

Walnut, the 536
Wheat 1779
  Egyptian, or mummy 1783
  Polish 1722
  Red winter 1719
Whitebait 348
Whiting, the 343
Window and flowers 75
Wirebasket 494
Woodcock, the 1053
  Roast 1053
  Scotch 1653
  To carve a 1062

Yorkshire pudding 1384




COLOURED PLATES.

Apples in custard

Beef, round of, boiled
      Roast sirloin of

Calf's head, boiled
Charlotte aux pommes
Cod's head and shoulders
Crab, dressed

Duck, wild
Ducks, couple of, roast

Eggs, poached, and spinach

Fowl, boiled with cauliflower
     Roast, with watercresses
Fruits, centre dish of various

Goose, roast
Grouse

Ham, cold glazed
Hare, roast

Jelly, two colours of

Lobsters, dressed

Mackerel, boiled
Mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes
   Haunch of roast
   Saddle of roast
Mutton, shoulder of roast

Oysters, scalloped

Partridge
Pheasant
Pie, raised
Pig, sucking, roast or baked
Pigeon
Plum-pudding, Christmas, in mould

Rabbit, boiled
   Or fowl, curried
Raspberry cream
Rissoles

Salmon, boiled
Snipe
Soles, dish of filleted
Spinach and poached eggs
Strawberries, au naturel, in
    ornamental flower-pot

Tongue, cold boiled
Trifle
Turbot, or brill, boiled
Turkey, roast

Veal, fricandeau of
Vol-au-vent

Whiting, dish of, fried
Woodcock








THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.




CHAPTER I.


THE MISTRESS.

"Strength, and honour are her clothing; and she shall rejoice in time to
come. She openeth her mouth with wisdom; and in her tongue is the law of
kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household; and eateth not
the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her
husband also, and he praiseth her."--_Proverbs_, xxxi. 25-28.

I. AS WITH THE COMMANDER OF AN ARMY, or the leader of any enterprise, so
is it with the mistress of a house. Her spirit will be seen through the
whole establishment; and just in proportion as she performs her duties
intelligently and thoroughly, so will her domestics follow in her path.
Of all those acquirements, which more particularly belong to the
feminine character, there are none which take a higher rank, in our
estimation, than such as enter into a knowledge of household duties; for
on these are perpetually dependent the happiness, comfort, and
well-being of a family. In this opinion we are borne out by the author
of "The Vicar of Wakefield," who says: "The modest virgin, the prudent
wife, and the careful matron, are much more serviceable in life than
petticoated philosophers, blustering heroines, or virago queens. She who
makes her husband and her children happy, who reclaims the one from vice
and trains up the other to virtue, is a much greater character than
ladies described in romances, whose whole occupation is to murder
mankind with shafts from their quiver, or their eyes."

2. PURSUING THIS PICTURE, we may add, that to be a good housewife does
not necessarily imply an abandonment of proper pleasures or amusing
recreation; and we think it the more necessary to express this, as the
performance of the duties of a mistress may, to some minds, perhaps seem
to be incompatible with the enjoyment of life. Let us, however, now
proceed to describe some of those home qualities and virtues which are
necessary to the proper management of a Household, and then point out
the plan which may be the most profitably pursued for the daily
regulation of its affairs.

3. EARLY RISING IS ONE OF THE MOST ESSENTIAL QUALITIES which enter into
good Household Management, as it is not only the parent of health, but
of innumerable other advantages. Indeed, when a mistress is an early
riser, it is almost certain that her house will be orderly and
well-managed. On the contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour,
then the domestics, who, as we have before observed, invariably partake
somewhat of their mistress's character, will surely become sluggards. To
self-indulgence all are more or less disposed, and it is not to be
expected that servants are freer from this fault than the heads of
houses. The great Lord Chatham thus gave his advice in reference to this
subject:--"I would have inscribed on the curtains of your bed, and the
walls of your chamber, 'If you do not rise early, you can make progress
in nothing.'"

4. CLEANLINESS IS ALSO INDISPENSABLE TO HEALTH, and must be studied both
in regard to the person and the house, and all that it contains. Cold or
tepid baths should be employed every morning, unless, on account of
illness or other circumstances, they should be deemed objectionable. The
bathing of _children_ will be treated of under the head of "MANAGEMENT
OF CHILDREN."

5. FRUGALITY AND ECONOMY ARE HOME VIRTUES, without which no household
can prosper. Dr. Johnson says: "Frugality may be termed the daughter of
Prudence, the sister of Temperance, and the parent of Liberty. He that
is extravagant will quickly become poor, and poverty will enforce
dependence and invite corruption." The necessity of practising economy
should be evident to every one, whether in the possession of an income
no more than sufficient for a family's requirements, or of a large
fortune, which puts financial adversity out of the question. We must
always remember that it is a great merit in housekeeping to manage a
little well. "He is a good waggoner," says Bishop Hall, "that can turn
in a little room. To live well in abundance is the praise of the estate,
not of the person. I will study more how to give a good account of my
little, than how to make it more." In this there is true wisdom, and it
may be added, that those who can manage a little well, are most likely
to succeed in their management of larger matters. Economy and frugality
must never, however, be allowed to degenerate into parsimony and
meanness.

6. THE CHOICE OF ACQUAINTANCES is very important to the happiness of a
mistress and her family. A gossiping acquaintance, who indulges in the
scandal and ridicule of her neighbours, should be avoided as a
pestilence. It is likewise all-necessary to beware, as Thomson sings,

                                 "The whisper'd tale,
  That, like the fabling Nile, no fountain knows;--
  Fair-laced Deceit, whose wily, conscious aye
  Ne'er looks direct; the tongue that licks the dust
  But, when it safely dares, as prompt to sting."

If the duties of a family do not sufficiently occupy the time of a
mistress, society should be formed of such a kind as will tend to the
mutual interchange of general and interesting information.

7. FRIENDSHIPS SHOULD NOT BE HASTILY FORMED, nor the heart given, at
once, to every new-comer. There are ladies who uniformly smile at, and
approve everything and everybody, and who possess neither the courage to
reprehend vice, nor the generous warmth to defend virtue. The friendship
of such persons is without attachment, and their love without affection
or even preference. They imagine that every one who has any penetration
is ill-natured, and look coldly on a discriminating judgment. It should
be remembered, however, that this discernment does not always proceed
from an uncharitable temper, but that those who possess a long
experience and thorough knowledge of the world, scrutinize the conduct
and dispositions of people before they trust themselves to the first
fair appearances. Addison, who was not deficient in a knowledge of
mankind, observes that "a friendship, which makes the least noise, is
very often the most useful; for which reason, I should prefer a prudent
friend to a zealous one." And Joanna Baillie tells us that

  "Friendship is no plant of hasty growth,
   Though planted in esteem's deep-fixed soil,
   The gradual culture of kind intercourse
   Must bring it to perfection."

8. HOSPITALITY IS A MOST EXCELLENT VIRTUE; but care must be taken that
the love of company, for its own sake, does not become a prevailing
passion; for then the habit is no longer hospitality, but dissipation.
Reality and truthfulness in this, as in all other duties of life, are
the points to be studied; for, as Washington Irving well says, "There is
an emanation from the heart in genuine hospitality, which cannot be
described, but is immediately felt, and puts the stranger at once at his
ease." With respect to the continuance of friendships, however, it may
be found necessary, in some cases, for a mistress to relinquish, on
assuming the responsibility of a household, many of those commenced in
the earlier part of her life. This will be the more requisite, if the
number still retained be quite equal to her means and opportunities.

9. IN CONVERSATION, TRIFLING OCCURRENCES, such as small disappointments,
petty annoyances, and other every-day incidents, should never be
mentioned to your friends. The extreme injudiciousness of repeating
these will be at once apparent, when we reflect on the unsatisfactory
discussions which they too frequently occasion, and on the load of
advice which they are the cause of being tendered, and which is, too
often, of a kind neither to be useful nor agreeable. Greater events,
whether of joy or sorrow, should be communicated to friends; and, on
such occasions, their sympathy gratifies and comforts. If the mistress
be a wife, never let an account of her husband's failings pass her lips;
and in cultivating the power of conversation, she should keep the
versified advice of Cowper continually in her memory, that it

  "Should flow like water after summer showers,
   Not as if raised by mere mechanic powers."

In reference to its style, Dr. Johnson, who was himself greatly
distinguished for his colloquial abilities, says that "no style is more
extensively acceptable than the narrative, because this does not carry
an air of superiority over the rest of the company; and, therefore, is
most likely to please them. For this purpose we should store our memory
with short anecdotes and entertaining pieces of history. Almost every
one listens with eagerness to extemporary history. Vanity often
co-operates with curiosity; for he that is a hearer in one place wishes
to qualify himself to be a principal speaker in some inferior company;
and therefore more attention is given to narrations than anything else
in conversation. It is true, indeed, that sallies of wit and quick
replies are very pleasing in conversation; but they frequently tend to
raise envy in some of the company: but the narrative way neither raises
this, nor any other evil passion, but keeps all the company nearly upon
an equality, and, if judiciously managed, will at once entertain and
improve them all."

10. GOOD TEMPER SHOULD BE CULTIVATED by every mistress, as upon it the
welfare of the household may be said to turn; indeed, its influence can
hardly be over-estimated, as it has the effect of moulding the
characters of those around her, and of acting most beneficially on the
happiness of the domestic circle. Every head of a household should
strive to be cheerful, and should never fail to show a deep interest in
all that appertains to the well-being of those who claim the protection
of her roof. Gentleness, not partial and temporary, but universal and
regular, should pervade her conduct; for where such a spirit is
habitually manifested, it not only delights her children, but makes her
domestics attentive and respectful; her visitors are also pleased by it,
and their happiness is increased.

11. ON THE IMPORTANT SUBJECT OF DRESS AND FASHION we cannot do better
than quote an opinion from the eighth volume of the "Englishwoman's
Domestic Magazine." The writer there says, "Let people write, talk,
lecture, satirize, as they may, it cannot be denied that, whatever is
the prevailing mode in attire, let it intrinsically be ever so absurd,
it will never _look_ as ridiculous as another, or as any other, which,
however convenient, comfortable, or even becoming, is totally opposite
in style to that generally worn."

12. IN PURCHASING ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL, whether it be a silk
dress, a bonnet, shawl, or riband, it is well for the buyer to consider
three things: I. That it be not too expensive for her purse. II. That
its colour harmonize with her complexion, and its size and pattern with
her figure. III. That its tint allow of its being worn with the other
garments she possesses. The quaint Fuller observes, that the good wife
is none of our dainty dames, who love to appear in a variety of suits
every day new, as if a gown, like a stratagem in war, were to be used
but once. But our good wife sets up a sail according to the keel of her
husband's estate; and, if of high parentage, she doth not so remember
what she was by birth, that she forgets what she is by match.

    To _Brunettes_, or those ladies having dark complexions, silks
    of a grave hue are adapted. For _Blondes_, or those having fair
    complexions, lighter colours are preferable, as the richer,
    deeper hues are too overpowering for the latter. The colours
    which go best together are green with violet; gold-colour with
    dark crimson or lilac; pale blue with scarlet; pink with black
    or white; and gray with scarlet or pink. A cold colour generally
    requires a warm tint to give life to it. Gray and pale blue, for
    instance, do not combine well, both being cold colours.

13. THE DRESS OF THE MISTRESS should always be adapted to her
circumstances, and be varied with different occasions. Thus, at
breakfast she should be attired in a very neat and simple manner,
wearing no ornaments. If this dress should decidedly pertain only to the
breakfast-hour, and be specially suited for such domestic occupations as
usually follow that meal, then it would be well to exchange it before
the time for receiving visitors, if the mistress be in the habit of
doing so. It is still to be remembered, however, that, in changing the
dress, jewellery and ornaments are not to be worn until the full dress
for dinner is assumed. Further information and hints on the subject of
the toilet will appear under the department of the "LADY'S-MAID."

    The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Shakspeare's
    tragedy of "Hamlet," is most excellent; and although given to
    one of the male sex, will equally apply to a "fayre ladye:"--

  "Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
   But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy;
   For the apparel oft proclaims the man."

14. CHARITY AND BENEVOLENCE ARE DUTIES which a mistress owes to herself
as well as to her fellow-creatures; and there is scarcely any income so
small, but something may be spared from it, even if it be but "the
widow's mite." It is to be always remembered, however, that it is the
_spirit_ of charity which imparts to the gift a value far beyond its
actual amount, and is by far its better part.

  True Charity, a plant divinely nursed,
  Fed by the love from which it rose at first,
  Thrives against hope, and, in the rudest scene,
  Storms but enliven its unfading green;
  Exub'rant is the shadow it supplies,
  Its fruit on earth, its growth above the skies.

    Visiting the houses of the poor is the only practical way really
    to understand the actual state of each family; and although
    there may be difficulties in following out this plan in the
    metropolis and other large cities, yet in country towns and
    rural districts these objections do not obtain. Great advantages
    may result from visits paid to the poor; for there being,
    unfortunately, much ignorance, generally, amongst them with
    respect to all household knowledge, there will be opportunities
    for advising and instructing them, in a pleasant and unobtrusive
    manner, in cleanliness, industry, cookery, and good management.

15. IN MARKETING, THAT THE BEST ARTICLES ARE THE CHEAPEST, may be laid
down as a rule; and it is desirable, unless an experienced and
confidential housekeeper be kept, that the mistress should herself
purchase all provisions and stores needed for the house. If the mistress
be a young wife, and not accustomed to order "things for the house," a
little practice and experience will soon teach her who are the best
tradespeople to deal with, and what are the best provisions to buy.
Under each particular head of FISH, MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, &c., will be
described the proper means of ascertaining the quality of these
comestibles.

16. A HOUSEKEEPING ACCOUNT-BOOK should invariably be kept, and kept
punctually and precisely. The plan for keeping household accounts, which
we should recommend, would be to make an entry, that is, write down into
a daily diary every amount paid on that particular day, be it ever so
small; then, at the end of the month, let these various payments be
ranged under their specific heads of Butcher, Baker, &c.; and thus will
be seen the proportions paid to each tradesman, and any one month's
expenses may be contrasted with another. The housekeeping accounts
should be balanced not less than once a month; so that you may see that
the money you have in hand tallies with your account of it in your
diary. Judge Haliburton never wrote truer words than when he said, "No
man is rich whose expenditure exceeds his means, and no one is poor
whose incomings exceed his outgoings."

    When, in a large establishment, a housekeeper is kept, it will
    be advisable for the mistress to examine her accounts regularly.
    Then any increase of expenditure which may be apparent, can
    easily be explained, and the housekeeper will have the
    satisfaction of knowing whether her efforts to manage her
    department well and economically, have been successful.

17. ENGAGING DOMESTICS is one of those duties in which the judgment of
the mistress must be keenly exercised. There are some respectable
registry-offices, where good servants may sometimes be hired; but the
plan rather to be recommended is, for the mistress to make inquiry
amongst her circle of friends and acquaintances, and her tradespeople.
The latter generally know those in their neighbourhood, who are wanting
situations, and will communicate with them, when a personal interview
with some of them will enable the mistress to form some idea of the
characters of the applicants, and to suit herself accordingly.

    We would here point out an error--and a grave one it is--into
    which some mistresses fall. They do not, when engaging a
    servant, expressly tell her all the duties which she will be
    expected to perform. This is an act of omission severely to be
    reprehended. Every portion of work which the maid will have to
    do, should be plainly stated by the mistress, and understood by
    the servant. If this plan is not carefully adhered to, domestic
    contention is almost certain to ensue, and this may not be
    easily settled; so that a change of servants, which is so much
    to be deprecated, is continually occurring.

18. IN OBTAINING A SERVANT'S CHARACTER, it is not well to be guided by a
written one from some unknown quarter; but it is better to have an
interview, if at all possible, with the former mistress. By this means
you will be assisted in your decision of the suitableness of the servant
for your place, from the appearance of the lady and the state of her
house. Negligence and want of cleanliness in her and her household
generally, will naturally lead you to the conclusion, that her servant
has suffered from the influence of the bad example.

    The proper course to pursue in order to obtain a personal
    interview with the lady is this:--The servant in search of the
    situation must be desired to see her former mistress, and ask
    her to be kind enough to appoint a time, convenient to herself,
    when you may call on her; this proper observance of courtesy
    being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the
    part of a stranger. Your first questions should be relative to
    the honesty and general morality of her former servant; and if
    no objection is stated in that respect, her other qualifications
    are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should be very minute, so
    that you may avoid disappointment and trouble, by knowing the
    weak points of your domestic.

19. THE TREATMENT OF SERVANTS is of the highest possible moment, as well
to the mistress as to the domestics themselves. On the head of the house
the latter will naturally fix their attention; and if they perceive that
the mistress's conduct is regulated by high and correct principles, they
will not fail to respect her. If, also, a benevolent desire is shown to
promote their comfort, at the same time that a steady performance of
their duty is exacted, then their respect will not be unmingled with
affection, and they will be still more solicitous to continue to deserve
her favour.

20. IN GIVING A CHARACTER, it is scarcely necessary to say that the
mistress should be guided by a sense of strict justice. It is not fair
for one lady to recommend to another, a servant she would not keep
herself. The benefit, too, to the servant herself is of small advantage;
for the failings which she possesses will increase if suffered to be
indulged with impunity. It is hardly necessary to remark, on the other
hand, that no angry feelings on the part of a mistress towards her late
servant, should ever be allowed, in the slightest degree, to influence
her, so far as to induce her to disparage her maid's character.

21. THE FOLLOWING TABLE OF THE AVERAGE YEARLY WAGES paid to domestics,
with the various members of the household placed in the order in which
they are usually ranked, will serve as a guide to regulate the
expenditure of an establishment:--

                      When not found in          When found in
                          Livery.                   Livery.

  The House Steward   From £10 to £80               --
  The Valet             "  25 to 50             From £20 to £30
  The Butler            "  25 to 50                 --
  The Cook              "  20 to 40                 --
  The Gardener          "  20 to 40                 --
  The Footman           "  20 to 40              "  15 to 25
  The Under Butler      "  15 to 30              "  15 to 25
  The Coachman              --                   "  20 to 35
  The Groom             "  15 to 30              "  12 to 20
  The Under Footman          --                  "  12 to 20
  The Page or Footboy   "  8 to 18               "  6 to  14
  The Stableboy         "  6 to 12                  --

                    When no extra             When an extra
                 allowance is made for    allowance is made for
                  Tea, Sugar, and Beer.   Tea, Sugar, and Beer.

  The Housekeeper    From £20 to £15          From £18 to £40
  The Lady's-maid        " 12 to 25           "  10 to 20
  The Head Nurse         " 15 to 30           "  13 to 26
  The Cook               " 11 to 30           "  12 to 26
  The Upper Housemaid    " 12 to 20           "  10 to 17
  The Upper Laundry-maid " 12 to 18           "  10 to 15
  The Maid-of-all-work   " 9 to 14            "  7-1/2 to 11
  The Under Housemaid    " 8 to 12            "  6-1/2 to 10
  The Still-room Maid    " 9 to 14            "  8 to 13
  The Nursemaid          " 8 to 12            "  5 to 10
  The Under Laundry-maid " 9 to 11            "  8 to 12
  The Kitchen-maid       " 9 to 14            "  8 to 12
  The Scullery-maid      " 5 to 9             "  4 to 8

    These quotations of wages are those usually given in or near the
    metropolis; but, of course, there are many circumstances
    connected with locality, and also having reference to the long
    service on the one hand, or the inexperience on the other, of
    domestics, which may render the wages still higher or lower than
    those named above. All the domestics mentioned in the above
    table would enter into the establishment of a wealthy nobleman.
    The number of servants, of course, would become smaller in
    proportion to the lesser size of the establishment; and we may
    here enumerate a scale of servants suited to various incomes,
    commencing with--

  About £1,000 a year--A cook, upper housemaid, nursemaid, under
                housemaid,
       and a man servant.
  About £750 a year--A cook, housemaid, nursemaid, and footboy.
  About £500 a year--A cook, housemaid, and nursemaid.
  About £300 a year--A maid-of-all-work and nursemaid.
  About £200 or £150 a year--A maid-of-all-work (and girl occasionally).

22. HAVING THUS INDICATED some of the more general duties of the
mistress, relative to the moral government of her household, we will now
give a few specific instructions on matters having a more practical
relation to the position which she is supposed to occupy in the eye of
the world. To do this the more clearly, we will begin with her earliest
duties, and take her completely through the occupations of a day.

23. HAVING RISEN EARLY, as we have already advised (_see_ 3), and having
given due attention to the bath, and made a careful toilet, it will be
well at once to see that the children have received their proper
ablutions, and are in every way clean and comfortable. The first meal of
the day, breakfast, will then be served, at which all the family should
be punctually present, unless illness, or other circumstances, prevent.

24. AFTER BREAKFAST IS OVER, it will be well for the mistress to make a
round of the kitchen and other offices, to see that all are in order,
and that the morning's work has been properly performed by the various
domestics. The orders for the day should then be given, and any
questions which the domestics desire to ask, respecting their several
departments, should be answered, and any special articles they may
require, handed to them from the store-closet.

    In those establishments where there is a housekeeper, it will
    not be so necessary for the mistress, personally, to perform the
    above-named duties.

25. AFTER THIS GENERAL SUPERINTENDENCE of her servants, the mistress, if
a mother of a young family, may devote herself to the instruction of
some of its younger members, or to the examination of the state of their
wardrobe, leaving the later portion of the morning for reading, or for
some amusing recreation. "Recreation," says Bishop Hall, "is intended to
the mind as whetting is to the scythe, to sharpen the edge of it, which
would otherwise grow dull and blunt. He, therefore, that spends his
whole time in recreation is ever whetting, never mowing; his grass may
grow and his steed starve; as, contrarily, he that always toils and
never recreates, is ever mowing, never whetting, labouring much to
little purpose. As good no scythe as no edge. Then only doth the work go
forward, when the scythe is so seasonably and moderately whetted that it
may cut, and so cut, that it may have the help of sharpening."

    Unless the means of the mistress be very circumscribed, and she
    be obliged to devote a great deal of her time to the making of
    her children's clothes, and other economical pursuits, it is
    right that she should give some time to the pleasures of
    literature, the innocent delights of the garden, and to the
    improvement of any special abilities for music, painting, and
    other elegant arts, which she may, happily, possess.

26. THESE DUTIES AND PLEASURES BEING PERFORMED AND ENJOYED, the hour of
luncheon will have arrived. This is a very necessary meal between an
early breakfast and a late dinner, as a healthy person, with good
exercise, should have a fresh supply of food once in four hours. It
should be a light meal; but its solidity must, of course, be, in some
degree, proportionate to the time it is intended to enable you to wait
for your dinner, and the amount of exercise you take in the mean time.
At this time, also, the servants' dinner will be served.

    In those establishments where an early dinner is served, that
    will, of course, take the place of the luncheon. In many houses,
    where a nursery dinner is provided for the children and about
    one o'clock, the mistress and the elder portion of the family
    make their luncheon at the same time from the same joint, or
    whatever may be provided. A mistress will arrange, according to
    circumstances, the serving of the meal; but the more usual plan
    is for the lady of the house to have the joint brought to her
    table, and afterwards carried to the nursery.

27. AFTER LUNCHEON, MORNING CALLS AND VISITS may be made and received.
These may be divided under three heads: those of ceremony, friendship,
and congratulation or condolence. Visits of ceremony, or courtesy, which
occasionally merge into those of friendship, are to be paid under
various circumstances. Thus, they are uniformly required after dining at
a friend's house, or after a ball, picnic, or any other party. These
visits should be short, a stay of from fifteen to twenty minutes being
quite sufficient. A lady paying a visit may remove her boa or
neckerchief; but neither her shawl nor bonnet.

    When other visitors are announced, it is well to retire as soon
    as possible, taking care to let it appear that their arrival is
    not the cause. When they are quietly seated, and the bustle of
    their entrance is over, rise from your chair, taking a kind
    leave of the hostess, and bowing politely to the guests. Should
    you call at an inconvenient time, not having ascertained the
    luncheon hour, or from any other inadvertence, retire as soon as
    possible, without, however, showing that you feel yourself an
    intruder. It is not difficult for any well-bred or even
    good-tempered person, to know what to say on such an occasion,
    and, on politely withdrawing, a promise can be made to call
    again, if the lady you have called on, appear really
    disappointed.

28. IN PAYING VISITS OF FRIENDSHIP, it will not be so necessary to be
guided by etiquette as in paying visits of ceremony; and if a lady be
pressed by her friend to remove her shawl and bonnet, it can be done if
it will not interfere with her subsequent arrangements. It is, however,
requisite to call at suitable times, and to avoid staying too long, if
your friend is engaged. The courtesies of society should ever be
maintained, even in the domestic circle, and amongst the nearest
friends. During these visits, the manners should be easy and cheerful,
and the subjects of conversation such as may be readily terminated.
Serious discussions or arguments are to be altogether avoided, and there
is much danger and impropriety in expressing opinions of those persons
and characters with whom, perhaps, there is but a slight acquaintance.
(_See_ 6, 7, and 9.)

    It is not advisable, at any time, to take favourite dogs into
    another lady's drawing-room, for many persons have an absolute
    dislike to such animals; and besides this, there is always a
    chance of a breakage of some article occurring, through their
    leaping and bounding here and there, sometimes very much to the
    fear and annoyance of the hostess. Her children, also, unless
    they are particularly well-trained and orderly, and she is on
    exceedingly friendly terms with the hostess, should not
    accompany a lady in making morning calls. Where a lady, however,
    pays her visits in a carriage, the children can be taken in the
    vehicle, and remain in it until the visit is over.

29. FOR MORNING CALLS, it is well to be neatly attired; for a costume
very different to that you generally wear, or anything approaching an
evening dress, will be very much out of place. As a general rule, it may
be said, both in reference to this and all other occasions, it is better
to be under-dressed than over-dressed.

    A strict account should be kept of ceremonial visits, and notice
    how soon your visits have been returned. An opinion may thus be
    formed as to whether your frequent visits are, or are not,
    desirable. There are, naturally, instances when the
    circumstances of old age or ill health will preclude any return
    of a call; but when this is the case, it must not interrupt the
    discharge of the duty.

30. IN PAYING VISITS OF CONDOLENCE, it is to be remembered that they
should be paid within a week after the event which occasions them. If
the acquaintance, however, is but slight, then immediately after the
family has appeared at public worship. A lady should send in her card,
and if her friends be able to receive her, the visitor's manner and
conversation should be subdued and in harmony with the character of her
visit. Courtesy would dictate that a mourning card should be used, and
that visitors, in paying condoling visits, should be dressed in black,
either silk or plain-coloured apparel. Sympathy with the affliction of
the family, is thus expressed, and these attentions are, in such cases,
pleasing and soothing.

    In all these visits, if your acquaintance or friend be not at
    home, a card should be left. If in a carriage, the servant will
    answer your inquiry and receive your card; if paying your visits
    on foot, give your card to the servant in the hall, but leave to
    go in and rest should on no account be asked. The form of words,
    "Not at home," may be understood in different senses; but the
    only courteous way is to receive them as being perfectly true.
    You may imagine that the lady of the house is really at home,
    and that she would make an exception in your favour, or you may
    think that your acquaintance is not desired; but, in either
    case, not the slightest word is to escape you, which would
    suggest, on your part, such an impression.

31. IN RECEIVING MORNING CALLS, the foregoing description of the
etiquette to be observed in paying them, will be of considerable
service. It is to be added, however, that the occupations of drawing,
music, or reading should be suspended on the entrance of morning
visitors. If a lady, however, be engaged with light needlework, and none
other is appropriate in the drawing-room, it may not be, under some
circumstances, inconsistent with good breeding to quietly continue it
during conversation, particularly if the visit be protracted, or the
visitors be gentlemen.

    Formerly the custom was to accompany all visitors quitting the
    house to the door, and there take leave of them; but modern
    society, which has thrown off a great deal of this kind of
    ceremony, now merely requires that the lady of the house should
    rise from her seat, shake hands, or courtesy, in accordance with
    the intimacy she has with her guests, and ring the bell to
    summon the servant to attend them and open the door. In making a
    first call, either upon a newly-married couple, or persons newly
    arrived in the neighbourhood, a lady should leave her husband's
    card together with her own, at the same time, stating that the
    profession or business in which he is engaged has prevented him
    from having the pleasure of paying the visit, with her. It is a
    custom with many ladies, when on the eve of an absence from
    their neighbourhood, to leave or send their own and husband's
    cards, with the letters P. P. C. in the right-hand corner. These
    letters are the initials of the French words, "_Pour prendre
    congé_," meaning, "To take leave."

32. THE MORNING CALLS BEING PAID OR RECEIVED, and their etiquette
properly attended to, the next great event of the day in most
establishments is "The Dinner;" and we only propose here to make a few
general remarks on this important topic, as, in future pages, the whole
"Art of Dining" will be thoroughly considered, with reference to its
economy, comfort, and enjoyment.

33. IN GIVING OR ACCEPTING AN INVITATION FOR DINNER, the following is
the form of words generally made use of. They, however, can be varied in
proportion to the intimacy or position of the hosts and guests:--

  Mr. and Mrs. A---- present their compliments to Mr. and Mrs. B----,
  and request the honour, [or hope to have the pleasure] of their
                company
  to dinner on Wednesday, the 6th of December next.

  A---- STREET,
  _November 13th, 1859. R. S. V. P._

The letters in the corner imply "_Répondez, s'il vous plaît;_" meaning,
"an answer will oblige." The reply, accepting the invitation, is couched
in the following terms:--

  Mr. and Mrs. B---- present their compliments to Mr. and Mrs. A---, and
  will do themselves the honour of, [or will have much pleasure in]
  accepting their kind invitation to dinner on the 6th of December next.

  B---- SQUARE,
  _November 18th, 1859._

    Cards, or invitations for a dinner-party, should be issued a
    fortnight or three weeks (sometimes even a month) beforehand,
    and care should be taken by the hostess, in the selection of the
    invited guests, that they should be suited to each other. Much
    also of the pleasure of a dinner-party will depend on the
    arrangement of the guests at table, so as to form a due
    admixture of talkers and listeners, the grave and the gay. If an
    invitation to dinner is accepted, the guests should be punctual,
    and the mistress ready in her drawing-room to receive them. At
    some periods it has been considered fashionable to come late to
    dinner, but lately _nous avons changé tout cela_.

34. THE HALF-HOUR BEFORE DINNER has always been considered as the great
ordeal through which the mistress, in giving a dinner-party, will either
pass with flying colours, or, lose many of her laurels. The anxiety to
receive her guests,--her hope that all will be present in due time,--her
trust in the skill of her cook, and the attention of the other
domestics, all tend to make these few minutes a trying time. The
mistress, however, must display no kind of agitation, but show her tact
in suggesting light and cheerful subjects of conversation, which will be
much aided by the introduction of any particular new book, curiosity of
art, or article of vertu, which may pleasantly engage the attention of
the company. "Waiting for Dinner," however, is a trying time, and there
are few who have not felt--

 "How sad it is to sit and pine,
  The long _half-hour_ before we dine!
  Upon our watches oft to look,
  Then wonder at the clock and cook,
         *       *       *       *       *
 "And strive to laugh in spite of Fate!
  But laughter forced soon quits the room,
  And leaves it in its former gloom.
  But lo! the dinner now appears,
  The object of our hopes and fears,
                The end of all our pain!"

    In giving an entertainment of this kind, the mistress should
    remember that it is her duty to make her guests feel happy,
    comfortable, and quite at their ease; and the guests should also
    consider that they have come to the house of their hostess to be
    happy. Thus an opportunity is given to all for innocent
    enjoyment and intellectual improvement, when also acquaintances
    may be formed that may prove invaluable through life, and
    information gained that will enlarge the mind. Many celebrated
    men and women have been great talkers; and, amongst others, the
    genial Sir Walter Scott, who spoke freely to every one, and a
    favourite remark of whom it was, that he never did so without
    learning something he didn't know before.

35. DINNER BEING ANNOUNCED, the host offers his arm to, and places on
his right hand at the dinner-table, the lady to whom he desires to pay
most respect, either on account of her age, position, or from her being
the greatest stranger in the party. If this lady be married and her
husband present, the latter takes the hostess to her place at table, and
seats himself at her right hand. The rest of the company follow in
couples, as specified by the master and mistress of the house, arranging
the party according to their rank and other circumstances which may be
known to the host and hostess.

    It will be found of great assistance to the placing of a party
    at the dinner-table, to have the names of the guests neatly (and
    correctly) written on small cards, and placed at that part of
    the table where it is desired they should sit. With respect to
    the number of guests, it has often been said, that a private
    dinner-party should consist of not less than the number of the
    Graces, or more than that of the Muses. A party of ten or twelve
    is, perhaps, in a general way, sufficient to enjoy themselves
    and be enjoyed. White kid gloves are worn by ladies at
    dinner-parties, but should be taken off before the business of
    dining commences.

36. THE GUESTS BEING SEATED AT THE DINNER-TABLE, the lady begins to help
the soup, which is handed round, commencing with the gentleman on her
right and on her left, and continuing in the same order till all are
served. It is generally established as a rule, not to ask for soup or
fish twice, as, in so doing, part of the company may be kept waiting too
long for the second course, when, perhaps, a little revenge is taken by
looking at the awkward consumer of a second portion. This rule, however,
may, under various circumstances, not be considered as binding.

    It is not usual, where taking wine is _en règle_, for a
    gentleman to ask a lady to take wine until the fish or soup is
    finished, and then the gentleman honoured by sitting on the
    right of the hostess, may politely inquire if she will do him
    the honour of taking wine with him. This will act as a signal to
    the rest of the company, the gentleman of the house most
    probably requesting the same pleasure of the ladies at his right
    and left. At many tables, however, the custom or fashion of
    drinking wine in this manner, is abolished, and the servant
    fills the glasses of the guests with the various wines suited to
    the course which is in progress.

37. WHEN DINNER IS FINISHED, THE DESSERT is placed on the table,
accompanied with finger-glasses. It is the custom of some gentlemen to
wet a corner of the napkin; but the hostess, whose behaviour will set
the tone to all the ladies present, will merely wet the tips of her
fingers, which will serve all the purposes required. The French and
other continentals have a habit of gargling the mouth; but it is a
custom which no English gentlewoman should, in the slightest degree,
imitate.

38. WHEN FRUIT HAS BEEN TAKEN, and a glass or two of wine passed round,
the time will have arrived when the hostess will rise, and thus give the
signal for the ladies to leave the gentlemen, and retire to the
drawing-room. The gentlemen of the party will rise at the same time, and
he who is nearest the door, will open it for the ladies, all remaining
courteously standing until the last lady has withdrawn. Dr. Johnson has
a curious paragraph on the effects of a dinner on men. "Before dinner,"
he says, "men meet with great inequality of understanding; and those who
are conscious of their inferiority have the modesty not to talk. When
they have drunk wine, every man feels himself happy, and loses that
modesty, and grows impudent and vociferous; but he is not improved, he
is only not sensible of his defects." This is rather severe, but there
may be truth in it.

    In former times, when the bottle circulated freely amongst the
    guests, it was necessary for the ladies to retire earlier than
    they do at present, for the gentlemen of the company soon became
    unfit to conduct themselves with that decorum which is essential
    in the presence of ladies. Thanks, however, to the improvements
    in modern society, and the high example shown to the nation by
    its most illustrious personages, temperance is, in these happy
    days, a striking feature in the character of a gentleman.
    Delicacy of conduct towards the female sex has increased with
    the esteem in which they are now universally held, and thus, the
    very early withdrawing of the ladies from the dining-room is to
    be deprecated. A lull in the conversation will seasonably
    indicate the moment for the ladies' departure.

39. AFTER-DINNER INVITATIONS MAY BE GIVEN; by which we wish to be
understood, invitations for the evening. The time of the arrival of
these visitors will vary according to their engagements, or sometimes
will be varied in obedience to the caprices of fashion. Guests invited
for the evening are, however, generally considered at liberty to arrive
whenever it will best suit themselves,--usually between nine and twelve,
unless earlier hours are specifically named. By this arrangement, many
fashionable people and others, who have numerous engagements to fulfil,
often contrive to make their appearance at two or three parties in the
course of one evening.

40. THE ETIQUETTE OF THE DINNER-PARTY TABLE being disposed of, let us
now enter slightly into that of an evening party or ball. The
invitations issued and accepted for either of these, will be written in
the same style as those already described for a dinner-party. They
should be sent out _at least_ three weeks before the day fixed for the
event, and should be replied to within a week of their receipt. By
attending to these courtesies, the guests will have time to consider
their engagements and prepare their dresses, and the hostess will, also,
know what will be the number of her party.

    If the entertainment is to be simply an evening party, this must
    be specified on the card or note of invitation. Short or verbal
    invitations, except where persons are exceedingly intimate, or
    are very near relations, are very far from proper, although, of
    course, in this respect and in many other respects, very much
    always depends on the manner in which the invitation is given.
    True politeness, however, should be studied even amongst the
    nearest friends and relations; for the mechanical forms of good
    breeding are of great consequence, and too much familiarity may
    have, for its effect, the destruction of friendship.

41. AS THE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN ARRIVE, each should be shown to a room
exclusively provided for their reception; and in that set apart for the
ladies, attendants should be in waiting to assist in uncloaking, and
helping to arrange the hair and toilet of those who require it. It will
be found convenient, in those cases where the number of guests is large,
to provide numbered tickets, so that they can be attached to the cloaks
and shawls of each lady, a duplicate of which should be handed to the
guest. Coffee is sometimes provided in this, or an ante-room, for those
who would like to partake of it.

42. AS THE VISITORS ARE ANNOUNCED BY THE SERVANT, it is not necessary
for the lady of the house to advance each time towards the door, but
merely to rise from her seat to receive their courtesies and
congratulations. If, indeed, the hostess wishes to show particular
favour to some peculiarly honoured guests, she may introduce them to
others, whose acquaintance she may imagine will be especially suitable
and agreeable. It is very often the practice of the master of the house
to introduce one gentleman to another, but occasionally the lady
performs this office; when it will, of course, be polite for the persons
thus introduced to take their seats together for the time being.

    The custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many
    houses, and guests are thus left to discover for themselves the
    position and qualities of the people around them. The servant,
    indeed, calls out the names of all the visitors as they arrive,
    but, in many instances, mispronounces them; so that it will not
    be well to follow this information, as if it were an unerring
    guide. In our opinion, it is a cheerless and depressing custom,
    although, in thus speaking, we do not allude to the large
    assemblies of the aristocracy, but to the smaller parties of the
    middle classes.

43. A SEPARATE ROOM OR CONVENIENT BUFFET should be appropriated for
refreshments, and to which the dancers may retire; and cakes and
biscuits, with wine negus, lemonade, and ices, handed round. A supper is
also mostly provided at the private parties of the middle classes; and
this requires, on the part of the hostess, a great deal of attention and
supervision. It usually takes place between the first and second parts
of the programme of the dances, of which there should be several
prettily written or printed copies distributed about the ball-room.

    _In private parties_, a lady is not to refuse the invitation of
    a gentleman to dance, unless she be previously engaged. The
    hostess must be supposed to have asked to her house only those
    persons whom she knows to be perfectly respectable and of
    unblemished character, as well as pretty equal in position; and
    thus, to decline the offer of any gentleman present, would be a
    tacit reflection on the master and mistress of the house. It may
    be mentioned here, more especially for the young who will read
    this book, that introductions at balls or evening parties, cease
    with the occasion that calls them forth, no introduction, at
    these times, giving a gentleman a right to address, afterwards,
    a lady. She is, consequently, free, next morning, to pass her
    partner at a ball of the previous evening without the slightest
    recognition.

44. THE BALL IS GENERALLY OPENED, that is, the first place in the first
quadrille is occupied, by the lady of the house. When anything prevents
this, the host will usually lead off the dance with the lady who is
either the highest in rank, or the greatest stranger. It will be well
for the hostess, even if she be very partial to the amusement, and a
graceful dancer, not to participate in it to any great extent, lest her
lady guests should have occasion to complain of her monopoly of the
gentlemen, and other causes of neglect. A few dances will suffice to
show her interest in the entertainment, without unduly trenching on the
attention due to her guests. In all its parts a ball should be
perfect,--

  "The music, and the banquet, and the wine;
  The garlands, the rose-odours, and the flowers."

    The hostess or host, during the progress of a ball, will
    courteously accost and chat with their friends, and take care
    that the ladies are furnished with seats, and that those who
    wish to dance are provided with partners. A gentle hint from the
    hostess, conveyed in a quiet ladylike manner, that certain
    ladies have remained unengaged during several dances, is sure
    not to be neglected by any gentleman. Thus will be studied the
    comfort and enjoyment of the guests, and no lady, in leaving the
    house, will be able to feel the chagrin and disappointment of
    not having been invited to "stand up" in a dance during the
    whole of the evening.

45. WHEN ANY OF THE CARRIAGES OF THE GUESTS ARE ANNOUNCED, or the time
for their departure arrived, they should make a slight intimation to the
hostess, without, however, exciting any observation, that they are about
to depart. If this cannot be done, however, without creating too much
bustle, it will be better for the visitors to retire quietly without
taking their leave. During the course of the week, the hostess will
expect to receive from every guest a call, where it is possible, or
cards expressing the gratification experienced from her entertainment.
This attention is due to every lady for the pains and trouble she has
been at, and tends to promote social, kindly feelings.

46. HAVING THUS DISCOURSED of parties of pleasure, it will be an
interesting change to return to the more domestic business of the house,
although all the details we have been giving of dinner-parties, balls,
and the like, appertain to the department of the mistress. Without a
knowledge of the etiquette to be observed on these occasions, a mistress
would be unable to enjoy and appreciate those friendly pleasant meetings
which give, as it were, a fillip to life, and make the quiet happy home
of an English gentlewoman appear the more delightful and enjoyable. In
their proper places, all that is necessary to be known respecting the
dishes and appearance of the breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper tables,
will be set forth in this work.

47. A FAMILY DINNER AT HOME, compared with either giving or going to a
dinner-party, is, of course, of much more frequent occurrence, and many
will say, of much greater importance. Both, however, have to be
considered with a view to their nicety and enjoyment; and the latter
more particularly with reference to economy. These points will be
especially noted in the following pages on "Household Cookery." Here we
will only say, that for both mistress and servants, as well in large as
small households, it will be found, by far, the better plan, to cook and
serve the dinner, and to lay the tablecloth and the sideboard, with the
same cleanliness, neatness, and scrupulous exactness, whether it be for
the mistress herself alone, a small family, or for "company." If this
rule be strictly adhered to, all will find themselves increase in
managing skill; whilst a knowledge of their daily duties will become
familiar, and enable them to meet difficult occasions with ease, and
overcome any amount of obstacles.

48. OF THE MANNER OF PASSING EVENINGS AT HOME, there is none pleasanter
than in such recreative enjoyments as those which relax the mind from
its severer duties, whilst they stimulate it with a gentle delight.
Where there are young people forming a part of the evening circle,
interesting and agreeable pastime should especially be promoted. It is
of incalculable benefit to them that their homes should possess all the
attractions of healthful amusement, comfort, and happiness; for if they
do not find pleasure there, they will seek it elsewhere. It ought,
therefore, to enter into the domestic policy of every parent, to make
her children feel that home is the happiest place in the world; that to
imbue them with this delicious home-feeling is one of the choicest gifts
a parent can bestow.

    Light or fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening's
    recreation for the ladies of the household, and this may be
    varied by an occasional game at chess or backgammon. It has
    often been remarked, too, that nothing is more delightful to the
    feminine members of a family, than the reading aloud of some
    good standard work or amusing publication. A knowledge of polite
    literature may be thus obtained by the whole family, especially
    if the reader is able and willing to explain the more difficult
    passages of the book, and expatiate on the wisdom and beauties
    it may contain. This plan, in a great measure, realizes the
    advice of Lord Bacon, who says, "Read not to contradict and
    refute, nor to believe and take for granted, nor to find talk
    and discourse, but to weigh and consider."

49. IN RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT, it is well to remember that early rising
is almost impossible, if late going to bed be the order, or rather
disorder, of the house. The younger members of a family should go early
and at regular hours to their beds, and the domestics as soon as
possible after a reasonably appointed hour. Either the master or the
mistress of a house should, after all have gone to their separate rooms,
see that all is right with respect to the lights and fires below; and no
servants should, on any account, be allowed to remain up after the heads
of the house have retired.

50. HAVING THUS GONE FROM EARLY RISING TO EARLY RETIRING, there remain
only now to be considered a few special positions respecting which the
mistress of the house will be glad to receive some specific information.

51. WHEN A MISTRESS TAKES A HOUSE in a new locality, it will be
etiquette for her to wait until the older inhabitants of the
neighbourhood call upon her; thus evincing a desire, on their part, to
become acquainted with the new comer. It may be, that the mistress will
desire an intimate acquaintance with but few of her neighbours; but it
is to be specially borne in mind that all visits, whether of ceremony,
friendship, or condolence, should be punctiliously returned.

52. YOU MAY PERHAPS HAVE BEEN FAVOURED with letters of introduction from
some of your friends, to persons living in the neighbourhood to which
you have just come. In this case inclose the letter of introduction in
an envelope with your card. Then, if the person, to whom it is
addressed, calls in the course of a few days, the visit should be
returned by you within the week, if possible. Any breach of etiquette,
in this respect, will not readily be excused.

    In the event of your being invited to dinner under the above
    circumstances, nothing but necessity should prevent you from
    accepting the invitation. If, however, there is some distinct
    reason why you cannot accept, let it be stated frankly and
    plainly, for politeness and truthfulness should be ever allied.
    An opportunity should, also, be taken to call in the course of a
    day or two, in order to politely express your regret and
    disappointment at not having been able to avail yourself of
    their kindness.

53. IN GIVING A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION, it should always be handed to
your friend, unsealed. Courtesy dictates this, as the person whom you
are introducing would, perhaps, wish to know in what manner he or she
was spoken of. Should you _receive_ a letter from a friend, introducing
to you any person known to and esteemed by the writer, the letter should
be immediately acknowledged, and your willingness expressed to do all in
your power to carry out his or her wishes.

54. SUCH ARE THE ONEROUS DUTIES which enter into the position of the
mistress of a house, and such are, happily, with a slight but continued
attention, of by no means difficult performance. She ought always to
remember that she is the first and the last, the Alpha and the Omega in
the government of her establishment; and that it is by her conduct that
its whole internal policy is regulated. She is, therefore, a person of
far more importance in a community than she usually thinks she is. On
her pattern her daughters model themselves; by her counsels they are
directed; through her virtues all are honoured;--"her children rise up
and call her blessed; her husband, also, and he praiseth her."
Therefore, let each mistress always remember her responsible position,
never approving a mean action, nor speaking an unrefined word. Let her
conduct be such that her inferiors may respect her, and such as an
honourable and right-minded man may look for in his wife and the mother
of his children. Let her think of the many compliments and the sincere
homage that have been paid to her sex by the greatest philosophers and
writers, both in ancient and modern times. Let her not forget that she
has to show herself worthy of Campbell's compliment when he said,--

  "The world was sad! the garden was a wild!
   And man the hermit sigh'd, till _woman_ smiled."

Let her prove herself, then, the happy companion of man, and able to
take unto herself the praises of the pious prelate, Jeremy Taylor, who
says,--"A good wife is Heaven's last best gift to man,--his angel and
minister of graces innumerable,--his gem of many virtues,--his casket of
jewels--her voice is sweet music--her smiles his brightest day;--her
kiss, the guardian of his innocence;--her arms, the pale of his safety,
the balm of his health, the balsam of his life;--her industry, his
surest wealth;--her economy, his safest steward;--her lips, his faithful
counsellors;--her bosom, the softest pillow of his cares; and her
prayers, the ablest advocates of Heaven's blessings on his head."

Cherishing, then, in her breast the respected utterances of the good and
the great, let the mistress of every house rise to the responsibility of
its management; so that, in doing her duty to all around her, she may
receive the genuine reward of respect, love, and affection!

_Note_.--Many mistresses have experienced the horrors of house-hunting,
and it is well known that "three removes are as good (or bad, rather) as
a fire." Nevertheless, it being quite evident that we must, in these
days at least, live in houses, and are sometimes obliged to change our
residences, it is well to consider some of the conditions which will add
to, or diminish, the convenience and comfort of our homes.

Although the choice of a house must be dependent on so many different
circumstances with different people, that to give any specific
directions on this head would be impossible and useless; yet it will be
advantageous, perhaps, to many, if we point out some of those general
features as to locality, soil, aspect, &c., to which the attention of
all house-takers should be carefully directed.

Regarding the locality, we may say, speaking now more particularly of a
town house, that it is very important to the health and comfort of a
family, that the neighbourhood of all factories of any kind, producing
unwholesome effluvia or smells, should be strictly avoided. Neither is
it well to take a house in the immediate vicinity of where a noisy trade
is carried on, as it is unpleasant to the feelings, and tends to
increase any existing irritation of the system.

Referring to soils; it is held as a rule, that a gravel soil is superior
to any other, as the rain drains through it very quickly, and it is
consequently drier and less damp than clay, upon which water rests a far
longer time. A clay country, too, is not so pleasant for walking
exercise as one in which gravel predominates.

The aspect of the house should be well considered, and it should be
borne in mind that the more sunlight that comes into the house, the
healthier is the habitation. The close, fetid smell which assails one on
entering a narrow court, or street, in towns, is to be assigned to the
want of light, and, consequently, air. A house with a south or
south-west aspect, is lighter, warmer, drier, and consequently more
healthy, than one facing the north or north-east.

Great advances have been made, during the last few years, in the
principles of sanitary knowledge, and one most essential point to be
observed in reference to a house, is its "drainage," as it has been
proved in an endless number of cases, that bad or defective drainage is
as certain to destroy health as the taking of poisons. This arises from
its injuriously affecting the atmosphere; thus rendering the air we
breathe unwholesome and deleterious. Let it be borne in mind, then, that
unless a house is effectually drained, the health of its inhabitants is
sure to suffer; and they will be susceptible of ague, rheumatism,
diarrhoea, fevers, and cholera.

We now come to an all-important point,--that of the water supply. The
value of this necessary article has also been lately more and more
recognized in connection with the question of health and life; and most
houses are well supplied with every convenience connected with water.
Let it, however, be well understood, that no house, however suitable in
other respects, can be desirable, if this grand means of health and
comfort is, in the slightest degree, scarce or impure. No caution can be
too great to see that it is pure and good, as well as plentiful; for,
knowing, as we do, that not a single part of our daily food is prepared
without it, the importance of its influence on the health of the inmates
of a house cannot be over-rated.

Ventilation is another feature which must not be overlooked. In a
general way, enough of air is admitted by the cracks round the doors and
windows; but if this be not the case, the chimney will smoke; and other
plans, such as the placing of a plate of finely-perforated zinc in the
upper part of the window, must be used. Cold air should never be
admitted under the doors, or at the bottom of a room, unless it be close
to the fire or stove; for it will flow along the floor towards the
fireplace, and thus leave the foul air in the upper part of the room,
unpurified, cooling, at the same time, unpleasantly and injuriously, the
feet and legs of the inmates.

The rent of a house, it has been said, should not exceed one-eighth of
the whole income of its occupier; and, as a general rule, we are
disposed to assent to this estimate, although there may be many
circumstances which would not admit of its being considered infallible.

[Illustration]




CHAPTER II.


THE HOUSEKEEPER.

55. AS SECOND IN COMMAND IN THE HOUSE, except in large establishments,
where there is a house steward, the housekeeper must consider herself as
the immediate representative of her mistress, and bring, to the
management of the household, all those qualities of honesty, industry,
and vigilance, in the same degree as if she were at the head of her
_own_ family. Constantly on the watch to detect any wrong-doing on the
part of any of the domestics, she will overlook all that goes on in the
house, and will see that every department is thoroughly attended to, and
that the servants are comfortable, at the same time that their various
duties are properly performed.

    Cleanliness, punctuality, order, and method, are essentials in
    the character of a good housekeeper. Without the first, no
    household can be said to be well managed. The second is equally
    all-important; for those who are under the housekeeper will take
    their "cue" from her; and in the same proportion as punctuality
    governs her movements, so will it theirs. Order, again, is
    indispensable; for by it we wish to be understood that "there
    should be a place for everything, and everything in its place."
    Method, too, is most necessary; for when the work is properly
    contrived, and each part arranged in regular succession, it will
    be done more quickly and more effectually.

56. A NECESSARY QUALIFICATION FOR A HOUSEKEEPER is, that she should
thoroughly understand accounts. She will have to write in her books an
accurate registry of all sums paid for any and every purpose, all the
current expenses of the house, tradesmen's bills, and other extraneous
matter. As we have mentioned under the head of the Mistress (_see_ 16),
a housekeeper's accounts should be periodically balanced, and examined
by the head of the house. Nothing tends more to the satisfaction of both
employer and employed, than this arrangement. "Short reckonings make
long friends," stands good in this case, as in others.

    It will be found an excellent plan to take an account of every
    article which comes into the house connected with housekeeping,
    and is not paid for at the time. The book containing these
    entries can then be compared with the bills sent in by the
    various tradesmen, so that any discrepancy can be inquired into
    and set right. An intelligent housekeeper will, by this means,
    too, be better able to judge of the average consumption of each
    article by the household; and if that quantity be, at any time,
    exceeded, the cause may be discovered and rectified, if it
    proceed from waste or carelessness.

57. ALTHOUGH IN THE DEPARTMENT OF THE COOK, the housekeeper does not
generally much interfere, yet it is necessary that she should possess a
good knowledge of the culinary art, as, in many instances, it may be
requisite for her to take the superintendence of the kitchen. As a rule,
it may be stated, that the housekeeper, in those establishments where
there is no house steward or man cook, undertakes the preparation of the
confectionary, attends to the preserving and pickling of fruits and
vegetables; and, in a general way, to the more difficult branches of the
art of cookery.

    Much of these arrangements will depend, however, on the
    qualifications of the cook; for instance, if she be an able
    artiste, there will be but little necessity for the housekeeper
    to interfere, except in the already noticed articles of
    confectionary, &c. On the contrary, if the cook be not so clever
    an adept in her art, then it will be requisite for the
    housekeeper to give more of her attention to the business of the
    kitchen, than in the former case. It will be one of the duties
    of the housekeeper to attend to the marketing, in the absence of
    either a house steward or man cook.

58. THE DAILY DUTIES OF A HOUSEKEEPER are regulated, in a great measure,
by the extent of the establishment she superintends. She should,
however, rise early, and see that all the domestics are duly performing
their work, and that everything is progressing satisfactorily for the
preparation of the breakfast for the household and family. After
breakfast, which, in large establishments, she will take in the
"housekeeper's room" with the lady's-maid, butler, and valet, and where
they will be waited on by the still-room maid, she will, on various days
set apart for each purpose, carefully examine the household linen, with
a view to its being repaired, or to a further quantity being put in hand
to be made; she will also see that the furniture throughout the house is
well rubbed and polished; and will, besides, attend to all the necessary
details of marketing and ordering goods from the tradesmen.

    The housekeeper's room is generally made use of by the
    lady's-maid, butler, and valet, who take there their breakfast,
    tea, and supper. The lady's-maid will also use this apartment as
    a sitting-room, when not engaged with her lady, or with some
    other duties, which would call her elsewhere. In different
    establishments, according to their size and the rank of the
    family, different rules of course prevail. For instance, in the
    mansions of those of very high rank, and where there is a house
    steward, there are two distinct tables kept, one in the
    steward's room for the principal members of the household, the
    other in the servants' hall, for the other domestics. At the
    steward's dinner-table, the steward and housekeeper preside; and
    here, also, are present the lady's-maid, butler, valet, and head
    gardener. Should any visitors be staying with the family, their
    servants, generally the valet and lady's-maid, will be admitted
    to the steward's table.

59. AFTER DINNER, the housekeeper, having seen that all the members of
the establishment have regularly returned to their various duties, and
that all the departments of the household are in proper working order,
will have many important matters claiming her attention. She will,
possibly, have to give the finishing touch to some article of
confectionary, or be occupied with some of the more elaborate processes
of the still-room. There may also be the dessert to arrange, ice-creams
to make; and all these employments call for no ordinary degree of care,
taste, and attention.

    The still-room was formerly much more in vogue than at present;
    for in days of "auld lang syne," the still was in constant
    requisition for the supply of sweet-flavoured waters for the
    purposes of cookery, scents and aromatic substances used in the
    preparation of the toilet, and cordials in cases of accidents
    and illness. There are some establishments, however, in which
    distillation is still carried on, and in these, the still-room
    maid has her old duties to perform. In a general way, however,
    this domestic is immediately concerned with the housekeeper. For
    the latter she lights the fire, dusts her room, prepares the
    breakfast-table, and waits at the different meals taken in the
    housekeeper's room (_see_ 58). A still-room maid may learn a
    very great deal of useful knowledge from her intimate connection
    with the housekeeper, and if she be active and intelligent, may
    soon fit herself for a better position in the household.

60. IN THE EVENING, the housekeeper will often busy herself with the
necessary preparations for the next day's duties. Numberless small, but
still important arrangements, will have to be made, so that everything
may move smoothly. At times, perhaps, attention will have to be paid to
the breaking of lump-sugar, the stoning of raisins, the washing,
cleansing, and drying of currants, &c. The evening, too, is the best
time for setting right her account of the expenditure, and duly writing
a statement of moneys received and paid, and also for making memoranda
of any articles she may require for her storeroom or other departments.

    Periodically, at some convenient time,--for instance, quarterly
    or half-yearly, it is a good plan for the housekeeper to make an
    inventory of everything she has under her care, and compare this
    with the lists of a former period; she will then be able to
    furnish a statement, if necessary, of the articles which, on
    account of time, breakage, loss, or other causes, it has been
    necessary to replace or replenish.

61. IN CONCLUDING THESE REMARKS on the duties of the housekeeper, we
will briefly refer to the very great responsibility which attaches to
her position. Like "Caesar's wife," she should be "above suspicion," and
her honesty and sobriety unquestionable; for there are many temptations
to which she is exposed. In a physical point of view, a housekeeper
should be healthy and strong, and be particularly clean in her person,
and her hands, although they may show a degree of roughness, from the
nature of some of her employments, yet should have a nice inviting
appearance. In her dealings with the various tradesmen, and in her
behaviour to the domestics under her, the demeanour and conduct of the
housekeeper should be such as, in neither case, to diminish, by an undue
familiarity, her authority or influence.

_Note_.--It will be useful for the mistress and housekeeper to know the
best seasons for various occupations connected with Household
Management; and we, accordingly, subjoin a few hints which we think will
prove valuable.

As, in the winter months, servants have much more to do, in consequence
of the necessity there is to attend to the number of fires throughout
the household, not much more than the ordinary every-day work can be
attempted.

In the summer, and when the absence of fires gives the domestics more
leisure, then any extra work that is required, can be more easily
performed.

The spring is the usual period set apart for house-cleaning, and
removing all the dust and dirt, which will necessarily, with the best of
housewives, accumulate during the winter months, from the smoke of the
coal, oil, gas, &c. This season is also well adapted for washing and
bleaching linen, &c., as, the weather, not being then too hot for the
exertions necessary in washing counterpanes, blankets, and heavy things
in general, the work is better and more easily done than in the intense
heats of July, which month some recommend for these purposes. Winter
curtains should be taken down, and replaced by the summer white ones;
and furs and woollen cloths also carefully laid by. The former should be
well shaken and brushed, and then pinned upon paper or linen, with
camphor to preserve them from the moths. Furs, &c., will be preserved in
the same way. Included, under the general description of house-cleaning,
must be understood, turning out all the nooks and corners of drawers,
cupboards, lumber-rooms, lofts, &c., with a view of getting rid of all
unnecessary articles, which only create dirt and attract vermin;
sweeping of chimneys, taking up carpets, painting and whitewashing the
kitchen and offices, papering rooms, when needed, and, generally
speaking, the house putting on, with the approaching summer, a bright
appearance, and a new face, in unison with nature. Oranges now should be
preserved, and orange wine made.

The summer will be found, as we have mentioned above, in consequence of
the diminution of labour for the domestics, the best period for
examining and repairing household linen, and for "putting to rights" all
those articles which have received a large share of wear and tear during
the dark winter days. In direct reference to this matter, we may here
remark, that sheets should be turned "sides to middle" before they are
allowed to get very thin. Otherwise, patching, which is uneconomical
from the time it consumes, and is unsightly in point of appearance, will
have to be resorted to. In June and July, gooseberries, currants,
raspberries, strawberries, and other summer fruits, should be preserved,
and jams and jellies made. In July, too, the making of walnut ketchup
should be attended to, as the green walnuts will be approaching
perfection for this purpose. Mixed pickles may also be now made, and it
will be found a good plan to have ready a jar of pickle-juice (for the
making of which all information will be given in future pages), into
which to put occasionally some young French beans, cauliflowers, &c.

In the early autumn, plums of various kinds are to be bottled and
preserved, and jams and jellies made. A little later, tomato sauce, a
most useful article to have by you, may be prepared; a supply of apples
laid in, if you have a place to keep them, as also a few keeping pears
and filberts. Endeavour to keep also a large vegetable marrow,--it will
be found delicious in the winter.

In October and November, it will be necessary to prepare for the cold
weather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of
the family. The white summer curtains will now be carefully put away,
the fireplaces, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the House put in a
thorough state of repair, so that no "loose tile" may, at a future day,
interfere with your comfort, and extract something considerable from
your pocket.

In December, the principal household duty lies in preparing for the
creature comforts of those near and dear to us, so as to meet old
Christmas with a happy face, a contented mind, and a full larder; and in
stoning the plums, washing the currants, cutting the citron, beating the
eggs, and MIXING THE PUDDING, a housewife is not unworthily greeting the
genial season of all good things.

[Illustration]




CHAPTER III.


ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN.

62. "THE DISTRIBUTION OF A KITCHEN," says Count Rumford, the celebrated
philosopher and physician, who wrote so learnedly on all subjects
connected with domestic economy and architecture, "must always depend so
much on local circumstances, that general rules can hardly be given
respecting it; the principles, however, on which this distribution
ought, in all cases, to be made, are simple and easy to be understood,"
and, in his estimation, these resolve themselves into symmetry of
proportion in the building and convenience to the cook. The requisites
of a good kitchen, however, demand something more special than is here
pointed out. It must be remembered that it is the great laboratory of
every household, and that much of the "weal or woe," as far as regards
bodily health, depends upon the nature of the preparations concocted
within its walls. A good kitchen, therefore, should be erected with a
view to the following particulars. 1. Convenience of distribution in its
parts, with largeness of dimension. 2. Excellence of light, height of
ceiling, and good ventilation. 3. Easiness of access, without passing
through the house. 4. Sufficiently remote from the principal apartments
of the house, that the members, visitors, or guests of the family, may
not perceive the odour incident to cooking, or hear the noise of
culinary operations. 5. Plenty of fuel and water, which, with the
scullery, pantry, and storeroom, should be so near it, as to offer the
smallest possible trouble in reaching them.

[Illustration: _Fig_. 1.]

    The kitchens of the Middle Ages, in England, are said to have
    been constructed after the fashion of those of the Romans. They
    were generally octagonal, with several fireplaces, but no
    chimneys; neither was there any wood admitted into the building.
    The accompanying cut, fig. 1, represents the turret which was
    erected on the top of the conical roof of the kitchen at
    Glastonbury Abbey, and which was perforated with holes to allow
    the smoke of the fire, as well as the steam from cooking, to
    escape. Some kitchens had funnels or vents below the eaves to
    let out the steam, which was sometimes considerable, as the
    Anglo-Saxons used their meat chiefly in a boiled state. From
    this circumstance, some of their large kitchens had four ranges,
    comprising a boiling-place for small boiled meats, and a
    boiling-house for the great boiler. In private houses the
    culinary arrangements were no doubt different; for Du Cange
    mentions a little kitchen with a chamber, even in a solarium, or
    upper floor.

63. THE SIMPLICITY OF THE PRIMITIVE AGES has frequently been an object
of poetical admiration, and it delights the imagination to picture men
living upon such fruits as spring spontaneously from the earth, and
desiring no other beverages to slake their thirst, but such as fountains
and rivers supply. Thus we are told, that the ancient inhabitants of
Argos lived principally on pears; that the Arcadians revelled in acorns,
and the Athenians in figs. This, of course, was in the golden age,
before ploughing began, and when mankind enjoyed all kinds of plenty
without having to earn their bread "by the sweat of their brow." This
delightful period, however, could not last for ever, and the earth
became barren, and continued unfruitful till Ceres came and taught the
art of sowing, with several other useful inventions. The first whom she
taught to till the ground was Triptolemus, who communicated his
instructions to his countrymen the Athenians. Thence the art was carried
into Achaia, and thence into Arcadia. Barley was the first grain that
was used, and the invention of bread-making is ascribed to Pan.

    The use of fire, as an instrument of cookery, must have been
    coeval with this invention of bread, which, being the most
    necessary of all kinds of food, was frequently used in a sense
    so comprehensive as to include both meat and drink. It was, by
    the Greeks, baked under the ashes.

64. IN THE PRIMARY AGES it was deemed unlawful to eat flesh, and when
mankind began to depart from their primitive habits, the flesh of swine
was the first that was eaten. For several ages, it was pronounced
unlawful to slaughter oxen, from an estimate of their great value in
assisting men to cultivate the ground; nor was it usual to kill young
animals, from a sentiment which considered it cruel to take away the
life of those that had scarcely tasted the joys of existence.

    At this period no cooks were kept, and we know from Homer that
    his ancient heroes prepared and dressed their victuals with
    their own hands. Ulysses, for example, we are told, like a
    modern charwoman, excelled at lighting a fire, whilst Achilles
    was an adept at turning a spit. Subsequently, heralds, employed
    in civil and military affairs, filled the office of cooks, and
    managed marriage feasts; but this, no doubt, was after mankind
    had advanced in the art of living, a step further than
    _roasting_, which, in all places, was the ancient manner of
    dressing meat.

65. THE AGE OF ROASTING we may consider as that in which the use of the
metals would be introduced as adjuncts to the culinary art; and amongst
these, iron, the most useful of them all, would necessarily take a
prominent place. This metal is easily oxidized, but to bring it to a
state of fusibility, it requires a most intense heat. Of all the metals,
it is the widest diffused and most abundant; and few stones or mineral
bodies are without an admixture of it. It possesses the valuable
property of being welded by hammering; and hence its adaptation to the
numerous purposes of civilized life.

    Metallic grains of iron have been found in strawberries, and a
    twelfth of the weight of the wood of dried oak is said to
    consist of this metal. Blood owes its colour of redness to the
    quantity of iron it contains, and rain and snow are seldom
    perfectly free from it. In the arts it is employed in three
    states,--as _cast_ iron, _wrought_ iron, and _steel_. In each of
    these it largely enters into the domestic economy, and stoves,
    grates, and the general implements of cookery, are usually
    composed of it. In antiquity, its employment was, comparatively
    speaking, equally universal. The excavations made at Pompeii
    have proved this. The accompanying cuts present us with
    specimens of stoves, both ancient and modern. Fig. 2 is the
    remains of a kitchen stove found in the house of Pansa, at
    Pompeii, and would seem, in its perfect state, not to have been
    materially different from such as are in use at the present day.
    Fig. 3 is a self-acting, simple open range in modern use, and
    may be had of two qualities, ranging, according to their
    dimensions, from £3. 10s. and £3. 18s. respectively, up to £4.
    10s. and £7. 5s. They are completely fitted up with oven,
    boiler, sliding cheek, wrought-iron bars, revolving shelves, and
    brass tap. Fig. 4, is called the Improved Leamington Kitchener,
    and is said to surpass any other range in use, for easy cooking
    by one fire. It has a hot plate, which is well calculated for an
    ironing-stove, and on which as many vessels as will stand upon
    it, may be kept boiling, without being either soiled or injured.
    Besides, it has a perfectly ventilated and spacious wrought-iron
    roaster, with movable shelves, draw-out stand, double
    dripping-pan, and meat-stand. The roaster can be converted into
    an oven by closing the valves, when bread and pastry can be
    baked in it in a superior manner. It also has a large iron
    boiler with brass tap and steam-pipe, round and square gridirons
    for chops and steaks, ash-pan, open fire for roasting, and a set
    of ornamental covings with plate-warmer attached. It took a
    first-class prize and medal in the Great Exhibition of 1851, and
    was also exhibited, with all the recent improvements, at the
    Dublin Exhibition in 1853. Fig. 5 is another kitchener, adapted
    for large families. It has on the one side, a large ventilated
    oven; and on the other, the fire and roaster. The hot plate is
    over all, and there is a back boiler, made of wrought iron, with
    brass tap and steam-pipe. In other respects it resembles Fig. 4,
    with which it possesses similar advantages of construction.
    Either maybe had at varying prices, according to size, from £5.
    15s. up to £23. 10s. They are supplied by Messrs. Richard & John
    Slack 336, Strand, London.

[Illustration: _Fig_. 2.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 3.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 4.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 5.]

66. FROM KITCHEN RANGES to the implements used in cookery is but a step.
With these, every kitchen should be well supplied, otherwise the cook
must not be expected to "perform her office" in a satisfactory manner.
Of the culinary utensils of the ancients, our knowledge is very limited;
but as the art of living, in every civilized country, is pretty much the
same, the instruments for cooking must, in a great degree, bear a
striking resemblance to each other. On referring to classical
antiquities, we find mentioned, among household utensils, leather bags,
baskets constructed of twigs, reeds, and rushes; boxes, basins, and
bellows; bread-moulds, brooms, and brushes; caldrons, colanders,
cisterns, and chafing-dishes; cheese-rasps, knives, and ovens of the
Dutch kind; funnels and frying-pans; handmills, soup-ladles, milk-pails,
and oil-jars; presses, scales, and sieves; spits of different sizes, but
some of them large enough to roast an ox; spoons, fire-tongs, trays,
trenchers, and drinking-vessels; with others for carrying food,
preserving milk, and holding cheese. This enumeration, if it does
nothing else, will, to some extent, indicate the state of the simpler
kinds of mechanical arts among the ancients.

[Illustration: _Fig_. 6.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 7.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 8.]

    In so far as regards the shape and construction of many of the
    kitchen utensils enumerated above, they bore a great resemblance
    to our own. This will be seen by the accompanying cuts. Fig. 6
    is an ancient stock-pot in bronze, which seems to have been made
    to hang over the fire, and was found in the buried city of
    Pompeii. Fig. 7 is one of modern make, and may be obtained
    either of copper or wrought iron, tinned inside. Fig. 8 is
    another of antiquity, with a large ladle and colander, with
    holes attached. It is taken from the column of Trajan. The
    modern ones can be obtained at all prices, according to size,
    from 13s. 6d. up to £1. 1s.

67. IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THESE UTENSILS, bronze metal seems to have
been much in favour with the ancients. It was chosen not only for their
domestic vessels, but it was also much used for their public sculptures
and medals. It is a compound, composed of from six to twelve parts of
tin to one hundred of copper. It gives its name to figures and all
pieces of sculpture made of it. Brass was another favourite metal, which
is composed of copper and zinc. It is more fusible than copper, and not
so apt to tarnish. In a pure state it is not malleable, unless when hot,
and after it has been melted twice it will not bear the hammer. To
render it capable of being wrought, it requires 7 lb. of lead to be put
to 1 cwt. of its own material.

    The Corinthian brass of antiquity was a mixture of silver, gold,
    and copper. A fine kind of brass, supposed to be made by the
    cementation of copper plates with calamine, is, in Germany,
    hammered out into leaves, and is called Dutch metal in this
    country. It is employed in the same way as gold leaf. Brass is
    much used for watchworks, as well as for wire.

68. The braziers, ladles, stewpans, saucepans, gridirons, and colanders
of antiquity might generally pass for those of the English manufacture
of the present day, in so far as shape is concerned. In proof of this we
have placed together the following similar articles of ancient and
modern pattern, in order that the reader may, at a single view, see
wherein any difference that is between them, consists.

[Illustration: _Fig_. 9. Modern.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 10. Ancient.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 11. Modern.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 12. Ancient.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 13. Modern.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 14. Ancient.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 15. Modern.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 16. Modern.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 17. Ancient.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 18. Ancient.]

    _Figs_. 9 and 10 are flat sauce or _sauté_ pans, the ancient one
    being fluted in the handle, and having at the end a ram's head.
    Figs. 11 and 12 are colanders, the handle of the ancient one
    being adorned, in the original, with carved representations of a
    cornucopia, a satyr, a goat, pigs, and other animals. Any
    display of taste in the adornment of such utensils, might seem
    to be useless; but when we remember how much more natural it is
    for us all to be careful of the beautiful and costly, than of
    the plain and cheap, it may even become a question in the
    economy of a kitchen, whether it would not, in the long run, be
    cheaper to have articles which displayed some tasteful ingenuity
    in their manufacture, than such as are so perfectly plain as to
    have no attractions whatever beyond their mere suitableness to
    the purposes for which they are made. Figs. 13 and 14 are
    saucepans, the ancient one being of bronze, originally copied
    from the cabinet of M. l'Abbé Charlet, and engraved in the
    Antiquities of Montfaucon. Figs. 15 and 17 are gridirons, and 16
    and 18 dripping-pans. In all these utensils the resemblance
    between such as were in use 2,000 years ago, and those in use at
    the present day, is strikingly manifest.

69. SOME OF THE ANCIENT UTENSILS represented in the above cuts, are
copied from those found amid the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii. These
Roman cities were, in the first century, buried beneath the lava of an
eruption of Vesuvius, and continued to be lost to the world till the
beginning of the last century, when a peasant, in digging for a well,
gradually discovered a small temple with some statues. Little notice,
however, was taken of this circumstance till 1736, when the king of
Naples, desiring to erect a palace at Portici, caused extensive
excavations to be made, when the city of Herculaneum was slowly unfolded
to view. Pompeii was discovered about 1750, and being easier cleared
from the lava in which it had so long been entombed, disclosed itself as
it existed immediately before the catastrophe which overwhelmed it,
nearly two thousand years ago. It presented, to the modern world, the
perfect picture of the form and structure of an ancient Roman city. The
interior of its habitations, shops, baths, theatres, and temples, were
all disclosed, with many of the implements used by the workmen in their
various trades, and the materials on which they were employed, when the
doomed city was covered with the lavian stream.

70. AMONGST THE MOST ESSENTIAL REQUIREMENTS of the kitchen are scales or
weighing-machines for family use. These are found to have existed among
the ancients, and must, at a very early age, have been both publicly and
privately employed for the regulation of quantities. The modern English
weights were adjusted by the 27th chapter of Magna Charta, or the great
charter forced, by the barons, from King John at Runnymede, in Surrey.
Therein it is declared that the weights, all over England, shall be the
same, although for different commodities there were two different kinds,
Troy and Avoirdupois. The origin of both is taken from a grain of wheat
gathered in the middle of an ear. The standard of measures was
originally kept at Winchester, and by a law of King Edgar was ordained
to be observed throughout the kingdom.

[Illustration: _Fig_. 19.]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 20.]

    Fig. 19 is an ancient pair of common scales, with two basins and
    a movable weight, which is made in the form of a head, covered
    with the pileus, because Mercury had the weights and measures
    under his superintendence. It is engraved on a stone in the
    gallery of Florence. Fig. 20 represents a modern
    weighing-machine, of great convenience, and generally in use in
    those establishments where a great deal of cooking is carried
    on.

71. ACCOMPANYING THE SCALES, or weighing-machines, there should be
spice-boxes, and sugar and biscuit-canisters of either white or japanned
tin. The covers of these should fit tightly, in order to exclude the
air, and if necessary, be lettered in front, to distinguish them. The
white metal of which they are usually composed, loses its colour when
exposed to the air, but undergoes no further change. It enters largely
into the composition of culinary utensils, many of them being entirely
composed of tinned sheet-iron; the inside of copper and iron vessels
also, being usually what is called _tinned_. This art consists of
covering any metal with a thin coating of tin; and it requires the metal
to be covered, to be perfectly clean and free from rust, and also that
the tin, itself, be purely metallic, and entirely cleared from all ashes
or refuse. Copper boilers, saucepans, and other kitchen utensils, are
tinned after they are manufactured, by being first made hot and the tin
rubbed on with resin. In this process, nothing ought to be used but pure
grain-tin. Lead, however, is sometimes mixed with that metal, not only
to make it lie more easily, but to adulterate it--a pernicious practice,
which in every article connected with the cooking and preparation of
food, cannot be too severely reprobated.--The following list, supplied
by Messrs. Richard & John Slack, 336, Strand, will show the articles
required for the kitchen of a family in the middle class of life,
although it does not contain all the things that may be deemed necessary
for some families, and may contain more than are required for others. As
Messrs. Slack themselves, however, publish a useful illustrated
catalogue, which may be had at their establishment _gratis_, and which
it will be found advantageous to consult by those about to furnish, it
supersedes the necessity of our enlarging that which we give:--

                                 s.  d.

  1 Tea-kettle                   6   6
  1 Toasting-fork                1   0
  1 Bread-grater                 1   0
  1 Pair of Brass Candlesticks   3   6
  1 Teapot and Tray              6   6
  1 Bottle-jack                  9   6
  6 Spoons                       1   6
  2 Candlesticks                 2   6
  1 Candle-box                   1   4
  6 Knives and Forks             5   3
  2 Sets of Skewers              1   0
  1 Meat-chopper                 1   9
  1 Cinder-sifter                1   3
  1 Coffee-pot                   2   3
  1 Colander                     1   6
  3 Block-tin Saucepans          5   9
  5 Iron Saucepans              12   0
  1 Ditto and Steamer            6   6
  1 Large Boiling-pot           10   0
  4 Iron Stewpans                8   9
  1 Dripping-pan and Stand       6   6
  1 Dustpan                      1   0
  1 Fish and Egg-slice           1   9
  2 Fish-kettles                10   0
  1 Flour-box                    1   0
  3 Flat-irons                   3   6
  2 Frying-pans                  4   0
  1 Gridiron                     2   0
  1 Mustard-pot                  1   0
  1 Salt-cellar                  0   8
  1 Pepper-box                   0   6
  1 Pair of Bellows              2   0
  3 Jelly-moulds                 8   0
  1 Plate-basket                 5   6
  1 Cheese-toaster               1  10
  1 Coal-shovel                  2   6
  1 Wood Meat-screen            30   0

  The Set                  £8   11   1


72. AS NOT ONLY HEALTH BUT LIFE may be said to depend on the cleanliness
of culinary utensils, great attention must be paid to their condition
generally, but more especially to that of the saucepans, stewpans, and
boilers. Inside they should be kept perfectly clean, and where an open
fire is used, the outside as clean as possible. With a Leamington range,
saucepans, stewpans, &c., can be kept entirely free from smoke and soot
on the outside, which is an immense saving of labour to the cook or
scullery-maid. Care should be taken that the lids fit tight and close,
so that soups or gravies may not be suffered to waste by evaporation.
They should be made to keep the steam in and the smoke out, and should
always be bright on the upper rim, where they do not immediately come in
contact with the fire. Soup-pots and kettles should be washed
immediately After being used, and dried before the fire, and they should
be kept in a dry place, in order that they may escape the deteriorating
influence of rust, and, thereby, be destroyed. Copper utensils should
never be used in the kitchen unless tinned, and the utmost care should
be taken, not to let the tin be rubbed off. If by chance this should
occur, have it replaced before the vessel is again brought into use.
Neither soup nor gravy should, at any time, be suffered to remain in
them longer than is absolutely necessary, as any fat or acid that is in
them, may affect the metal, so as to impregnate with poison what is
intended to be eaten. Stone and earthenware vessels should be provided
for soups and gravies not intended for immediate use, and, also, plenty
of common dishes for the larder, that the table-set may not be used for
such purposes. It is the nature of vegetables soon to turn sour, when
they are apt to corrode glazed red-ware, and even metals, and
frequently, thereby, to become impregnated with poisonous particles. The
vinegar also in pickles, by its acidity, does the same. Consideration,
therefore, should be given to these facts, and great care also taken
that all _sieves, jelly-bags,_ and tapes for collared articles, be well
scalded and kept dry, or they will impart an unpleasant flavour when
next used. To all these directions the cook should pay great attention,
nor should they, by any means, be neglected by the _mistress of the
household_, who ought to remember that cleanliness in the kitchen gives
health and happiness to home, whilst economy will immeasurably assist in
preserving them.

73. WITHOUT FUEL, A KITCHEN might be pronounced to be of little use;
therefore, to discover and invent materials for supplying us with the
means of domestic heat and comfort, has exercised the ingenuity of man.
Those now known have been divided into five classes; the first
comprehending the fluid inflammable bodies; the second, peat or turf;
the third, charcoal of wood; the fourth, pit-coal charred; and the
fifth, wood or pit-coal in a crude state, with the capacity of yielding
a copious and bright flame. The first may be said seldom to be employed
for the purposes of cookery; but _peat_, especially amongst rural
populations, has, in all ages, been regarded as an excellent fuel. It is
one of the most important productions of an alluvial soil, and belongs
to the vegetable rather than the mineral kingdom. It may be described as
composed of wet, spongy black earth, held together by decayed
vegetables. Formerly it covered extensive tracts in England, but has
greatly disappeared before the genius of agricultural improvement.
_Charcoal_ is a kind of artificial coal, used principally where a strong
and clear fire is desired. It is a black, brittle, insoluble, inodorous,
tasteless substance, and, when newly-made, possesses the remarkable
property of absorbing certain quantities of the different gases. Its
dust, when used as a polishing powder, gives great brilliancy to metals.
It consists of wood half-burned, and is manufactured by cutting pieces
of timber into nearly the same size, then disposing them in heaps, and
covering them with earth, so as to prevent communication with the air,
except when necessary to make them burn. When they have been
sufficiently charred, the fire is extinguished by stopping the vents
through which the air is admitted. Of _coal_ there are various species;
as, pit, culm, slate, cannel, Kilkenny, sulphurous, bovey, jet, &c.
These have all their specific differences, and are employed for various
purposes; but are all, more or less, used as fuel.

    The use of coal for burning purposes was not known to the
    Romans. In Britain it was discovered about fifty years before
    the birth of Christ, in Lancashire, not tar from where
    Manchester now stands; but for ages after its discovery, so long
    as forests abounded, wood continued to be the fuel used for
    firing. The first public notice of coal is in the reign of Henry
    III., who, in 1272, granted a charter to the town of Newcastle,
    permitting the inhabitants to dig for coal. It took some
    centuries more, however, to bring it into common use, as this
    did not take place till about the first quarter of the
    seventeenth century, in the time of Charles I. A few years after
    the Restoration, we find that about 200,000 chaldrons were
    consumed in London. Although several countries possess mines of
    coal, the quality of their mineral is, in general, greatly
    inferior to that of Great Britain, where it is found mostly in
    undulating districts abounding with valleys, and interspersed
    with plains of considerable extent. It lies usually between the
    _strata_ of other substances, and rarely in an horizontal
    position, but with a _dip_ or inclination to one side. Our cut,
    Fig. 21, represents a section of coal as it is found in the
    stratum.

[Illustration: _Fig_. 21.]

74. TO BE ACQUAINTED WITH THE PERIODS when things are in season, is one
of the most essential pieces of knowledge which enter into the "Art of
Cookery." We have, therefore, compiled the following list, which will
serve to show for every month in the year the


TIMES WHEN THINGS ARE IN SEASON.


JANUARY.

FISH.--Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders,
haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike,
plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench,
thornback, turbot, whitings.

MEAT.--Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison.

POULTRY.--Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys.

GAME.--Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock.

VEGETABLES.--Beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil,
cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes,
savoys, spinach, turnips,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apples, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, walnuts,
crystallized preserves (foreign), dried fruits, such as almonds and
raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates.


FEBRUARY.

FISH.--Barbel, brill, carp, cod may be bought, but is not so good as in
January, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings,
lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns,
shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback,
turbot, whiting.

MEAT.--Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

POULTRY.--Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets
with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season.

GAME.--Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.

VEGETABLES.--Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts,
cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive,
kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach,
turnips,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts,
oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as
almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates,
crystallized preserves.


MARCH.

FISH.--Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders,
haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike,
plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench,
thornback, turbot, whiting.

MEAT.--Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

POULTRY.--Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets
with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season.

GAME.--Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.

VEGETABLES.--Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts,
cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive,
kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, sea-kale, spinach,
turnips,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts,
oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as
almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates,
crystallized preserves.


APRIL.

FISH.--Brill, carp, cockles, crabs, dory, flounders, ling, lobsters, red
and gray mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, prawns, salmon (but rather
scarce and expensive), shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, tench,
turbot, whitings.

MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.

POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, leverets, pigeons, pullets,
rabbits.

GAME.--Hares.

VEGETABLES.--Broccoli, celery, lettuces, young onions, parsnips,
radishes, small salad, sea-kale, spinach, sprouts,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apples, nuts, pears, forced cherries, &e. for tarts, rhubarb,
dried fruits, crystallized preserves.


MAY.

FISH.--Carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, herrings, lobsters, mackerel,
red and gray mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, smelts, soles, trout, turbot.

MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.

POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, pullets,
rabbits.

VEGETABLES.--Asparagus, beans, early cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers,
creases, cucumbers, lettuces, pease, early potatoes, salads,
sea-kale,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apples, green apricots, cherries, currants for tarts,
gooseberries, melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries.


JUNE.

FISH.--Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike,
prawns, salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot.

MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers,
pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears.

VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers,
lettuces, onions, parsnips, pease, potatoes, radishes, small salads,
sea-kale, spinach,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines,
peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries.


JULY.

FISH.--Carp, crayfish, dory, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lobsters,
mackerel, mullet, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, soles,
sturgeon, tench, thornback.

MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers,
pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks (called
flappers).

VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots,
cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions,
pease, radishes, small salading, sea-kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetable
marrow,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apricots, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, melons,
nectarines, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, walnuts
in high season, and pickled.


AUGUST.

FISH.--Brill, carp, chub, crayfish, crabs, dory, eels, flounders, grigs,
herrings, lobsters, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, shrimps, skate, soles,
sturgeon, thornback, trout, turbot.

MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, pigeons, plovers,
pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks.

GAME.--Leverets, grouse, blackcock.

VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, asparagus, beans, carrots, cabbages,
cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions,
pease, potatoes, radishes, sea-bale, small salading, sprouts, turnips,
various kitchen herbs, vegetable marrows.

FRUIT.--Currants, figs, filberts, gooseberries, grapes, melons,
mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries,
walnuts.


SEPTEMBER.

FISH.--Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lobsters, mullet, oysters,
plaice, prawns, skate, soles, turbot, whiting, whitebait.

MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

POULTRY.--Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets,
rabbits, teal, turkeys.

GAME.--Blackcock, buck venison, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants.

VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbage sprouts, carrots,
celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, potatoes, salading,
sea-kale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons,
morella-cherries, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums,
quinces, walnuts.


OCTOBER.

FISH.--Barbel, brill, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, gudgeons, haddocks,
lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, tench, turbot,
whiting.

MEAT.--Beef, mutton, pork, veal, venison.

POULTRY.--Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits,
teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.

GAME.--Blackcock, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes,
woodcocks, doe venison.

VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, beets, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery,
lettuces, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips,
vegetable marrows,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apples, black and white bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts,
grapes, pears, quinces, walnuts.


NOVEMBER.

FISH.--Brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, haddocks, oysters, pike,
soles, tench, turbot, whiting.

MEAT.--Beef, mutton, veal, doe venison.

POULTRY.--Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits,
teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild duck.

GAME.--Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.

VEGETABLES.--Beetroot, cabbages, carrots, celery, lettuces, late
cucumbers, onions, potatoes, salading, spinach, sprouts,--various herbs.

FRUIT.--Apples, bullaces, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, pears, walnuts.


DECEMBER.

FISH.--Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, dace, gudgeons, haddocks,
herrings, lobsters, oysters, porch, pike, shrimps, skate, sprats, soles,
tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.

MEAT.--Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, venison.

POULTRY.--Capons, chickens, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits,
teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.

GAME.--Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.

VEGETABLES.--Broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, leeks, onions,
potatoes, parsnips, Scotch kale, turnips, winter spinach.

FRUIT.--Apples, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, medlars, oranges, pears,
walnuts, dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins, figs, dates,
&c.,--crystallized preserves.


75. WHEN FUEL AND FOOD ARE PROCURED, the next consideration is, how the
latter may be best preserved, with a view to its being suitably dressed.
More waste is often occasioned by the want of judgment, or of necessary
care in this particular, than by any other cause. In the absence of
proper places for keeping provisions, a hanging safe, suspended in an
airy situation, is the best substitute. A well-ventilated larder, dry
and shady, is better for meat and poultry, which require to be kept for
some time; and the utmost skill in the culinary art will not compensate
for the want of proper attention to this particular. Though it is
advisable that annual food should be hung up in the open air till its
fibres have lost some degree of their toughness, yet, if it is kept till
it loses its natural sweetness, its flavour has become deteriorated,
and, as a wholesome comestible, it has lost many of its qualities
conducive to health. As soon, therefore, as the slightest trace of
putrescence is detected, it has reached its highest degree of
tenderness, and should be dressed immediately. During the sultry summer
months, it is difficult to procure meat that is not either tough or
tainted. It should, therefore, be well examined when it comes in, and if
flies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and the remainder well
washed. In very cold weather, meat and vegetables touched by the frost,
should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning, and soaked in
cold water. In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone should
be taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the kernels of beef. Rumps
and edgebones of beef, when bruised, should not be purchased. All these
things ought to enter into the consideration of every household manager,
and great care should be taken that nothing is thrown away, or suffered
to be wasted in the kitchen, which might, by proper management, be
turned to a good account. The shank-bones of mutton, so little esteemed
in general, give richness to soups or gravies, if well soaked and
brushed before they are added to the boiling. They are also particularly
nourishing for sick persons. Roast-beef bones, or shank-bones of ham,
make excellent stock for pea-soup.--When the whites of eggs are used for
jelly, confectionary, or other purposes, a pudding or a custard should
be made, that the yolks may be used. All things likely to be wanted
should be in readiness: sugars of different sorts; currants washed,
picked, and perfectly dry; spices pounded, and kept in very small
bottles closely corked, or in canisters, as we have already directed
(72). Not more of these should be purchased at a time than are likely to
be used in the course of a month. Much waste is always prevented by
keeping every article in the place best suited to it. Vegetables keep
best on a stone floor, if the air be excluded; meat, in a cold dry
place; as also salt, sugar, sweet-meats, candles, dried meats, and hams.
Rice, and all sorts of seed for puddings, should be closely covered to
preserve them from insects; but even this will not prevent them from
being affected by these destroyers, if they are long and carelessly
kept.

[Illustration]




CHAPTER IV.


INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY.

76. AS IN THE FINE ARTS, the progress of mankind from barbarism to
civilization is marked by a gradual succession of triumphs over the rude
materialities of nature, so in the art of cookery is the progress
gradual from the earliest and simplest modes, to those of the most
complicated and refined. Plain or rudely-carved stones, tumuli, or
mounds of earth, are the monuments by which barbarous tribes denote the
events of their history, to be succeeded, only in the long course of a
series of ages, by beautifully-proportioned columns, gracefully-sculptured
statues, triumphal arches, coins, medals, and the higher efforts of the
pencil and the pen, as man advances by culture and observation to the
perfection of his facilities. So is it with the art of cookery. Man,
in his primitive state, lives upon roots and the fruits of the earth,
until, by degrees, he is driven to seek for new means, by which his
wants may be supplied and enlarged. He then becomes a hunter and a
fisher. As his species increases, greater necessities come upon him,
when he gradually abandons the roving life of the savage for the more
stationary pursuits of the herdsman. These beget still more settled
habits, when he begins the practice of agriculture, forms ideas of the
rights of property, and has his own, both defined and secured. The
forest, the stream, and the sea are now no longer his only resources for
food. He sows and he reaps, pastures and breeds cattle, lives on the
cultivated produce of his fields, and revels in the luxuries of the
dairy; raises flocks for clothing, and assumes, to all intents and
purposes, the habits of permanent life and the comfortable condition of
a farmer. This is the fourth stage of social progress, up to which the
useful or mechanical arts have been incidentally developing themselves,
when trade and commerce begin. Through these various phases, _only to
live_ has been the great object of mankind; but, by-and-by, comforts are
multiplied, and accumulating riches create new wants. The object, then,
is not only to _live_, but to live economically, agreeably, tastefully,
and well. Accordingly, the art of cookery commences; and although the
fruits of the earth, the fowls of the air, the beasts of the field, and
the fish of the sea, are still the only food of mankind, yet these are
so prepared, improved, and dressed by skill and ingenuity, that they are
the means of immeasurably extending the boundaries of human enjoyments.
Everything that is edible, and passes under the hands of the cook, is
more or less changed, and assumes new forms. Hence the influence of that
functionary is immense upon the happiness of a household.

77. In order that the duties of the Cook may be properly performed, and
that he may be able to reproduce esteemed dishes with certainty, all
terms of indecision should be banished from his art. Accordingly, what
is known only to him, will, in these pages, be made known to others. In
them all those indecisive terms expressed by a bit of this, some of
that, a small piece of that, and a handful of the other, shall never be
made use of, but all quantities be precisely and explicitly stated. With
a desire, also, that all ignorance on this most essential part of the
culinary art should disappear, and that a uniform system of weights and
measures should be adopted, we give an account of the weights which
answer to certain measures.

A TABLE-SPOONFUL is frequently mentioned in a recipe, in the
prescriptions of medical men, and also in medical, chemical, and
gastronomical works. By it is generally meant and understood a measure
or bulk equal to that which would be produced by _half an ounce_ of
water.

A DESSERT-SPOONFUL is the half of a table-spoonful; that is to say, by
it is meant a measure or bulk equal to a _quarter of an ounce_ of water.

A TEA-SPOONFUL is equal in quantity to a _drachm_ of water.

A DROP.--This is the name of a vague kind of measure, and is so called
on account of the liquid being _dropped_ from the mouth of a bottle. Its
quantity, however, will vary, either from the consistency of the liquid
or the size and shape of the mouth of the bottle. The College of
Physicians determined the quantity of a drop to be _one grain_, 60 drops
making one fluid drachm. Their drop, or sixtieth part of a fluid drachm,
is called a _minim_.

[Illustration: _Fig_. 22.]

    Graduated class measures can be obtained at any chemist's, and
    they save much trouble. One of these, containing a wine pint, is
    divided into 16 oz., and the oz, into 8 drachms of water; by
    which, any certain weight mentioned in a recipe can be
    accurately measured out. Home-made measures of this kind can
    readily be formed by weighing the water contained in any given
    measure, and marking on any tall glass the space it occupies.
    This mark can easily be made with a file. It will be interesting
    to many readers to know the basis on which the French found
    their system of weights and measures, for it certainly possesses
    the grandeur of simplicity. The metre, which is the basis of the
    whole system of French weights and measures, is the exact
    measurement of one forty-millionth part of a meridian of the
    earth.

78. EXCELLENCE IN THE ART OF COOKERY, as in all other things, is only
attainable by practice and experience. In proportion, therefore, to the
opportunities which a cook has had of these, so will be his excellence
in the art. It is in the large establishments of princes, noblemen, and
very affluent families alone, that the man cook is found in this
country. He, also, superintends the kitchens of large hotels, clubs, and
public institutions, where he, usually, makes out the bills of fare,
which are generally submitted to the principal for approval. To be able
to do this, therefore, it is absolutely necessary that he should be a
judge of the season of every dish, as well as know perfectly the state
of every article he undertakes to prepare. He must also be a judge of
every article he buys; for no skill, however great it may be, will
enable him to, make that good which is really bad. On him rests the
responsibility of the cooking generally, whilst a speciality of his
department, is to prepare the rich soups, stews, ragouts, and such
dishes as enter into the more refined and complicated portions of his
art, and such as are not usually understood by ordinary professors. He,
therefore, holds a high position in a household, being inferior in rank,
as already shown (21), only to the house steward, the valet, and the
butler.

    In the luxurious ages of Grecian antiquity, Sicilian cooks were
    the most esteemed, and received high rewards for their services.
    Among them, one called Trimalcio was such an adept in his art,
    that he could impart to common fish both the form and flavour of
    the most esteemed of the piscatory tribes. A chief cook in the
    palmy days of Roman voluptuousness had about £800 a year, and
    Antony rewarded the one that cooked the supper which pleased
    Cleopatra, with the present of a city. With the fall of the
    empire, the culinary art sank into less consideration. In the
    middle ages, cooks laboured to acquire a reputation for their
    sauces, which they composed of strange combinations, for the
    sake of novelty, as well as singularity.

79. THE DUTIES OF THE COOK, THE KITCHEN AND THE SCULLERY MAIDS, are so
intimately associated, that they can hardly be treated of separately.
The cook, however, is at the head of the kitchen; and in proportion to
her possession of the qualities of cleanliness, neatness, order,
regularity, and celerity of action, so will her influence appear in the
conduct of those who are under her; as it is upon her that the whole
responsibility of the business of the kitchen rests, whilst the others
must lend her, both a ready and a willing assistance, and be especially
tidy in their appearance, and active, in their movements.

    In the larger establishments of the middle ages, cooks, with the
    authority of feudal chiefs, gave their orders from a high chair
    in which they ensconced themselves, and commanded a view of all
    that was going on throughout their several domains. Each held a
    long wooden spoon, with which he tasted, without leaving his
    seat, the various comestibles that were cooking on the stoves,
    and which he frequently used as a rod of punishment on the backs
    of those whose idleness and gluttony too largely predominated
    over their diligence and temperance.

80. IF, AS WE HAVE SAID (3), THE QUALITY OF EARLY RISING be of the first
importance to the mistress, what must it be to the servant! Let it,
therefore, be taken as a long-proved truism, that without it, in every
domestic, the effect of all things else, so far as _work_ is concerned,
may, in a great measure, be neutralized. In a cook, this quality is most
essential; for an hour lost in the morning, will keep her toiling,
absolutely toiling, all day, to overtake that which might otherwise have
been achieved with ease. In large establishments, six is a good hour to
rise in the summer, and seven in the winter.

81. HER FIRST DUTY, in large establishments and where it is requisite,
should be to set her dough for the breakfast rolls, provided this has
not been done on the previous night, and then to engage herself with
those numerous little preliminary occupations which may not
inappropriately be termed laying out her duties for the day. This will
bring in the breakfast hour of eight, after which, directions must be
given, and preparations made, for the different dinners of the household
and family.

82. IN THOSE NUMEROUS HOUSEHOLDS where a cook and housemaid are only
kept, the general custom is, that the cook should have the charge of the
dining-room. The hall, the lamps and the doorstep are also committed to
her care, and any other work there may be on the outside of the house.
In establishments of this kind, the cook will, after having lighted her
kitchen fire, carefully brushed the range, and cleaned the hearth,
proceed to prepare for breakfast. She will thoroughly rinse the kettle,
and, filling it with fresh water, will put it on the fire to boil. She
will then go to the breakfast-room, or parlour, and there make all
things ready for the breakfast of the family. Her attention will next be
directed to the hall, which she will sweep and wipe; the kitchen stairs,
if there be any, will now be swept; and the hall mats, which have been
removed and shaken, will be again put in their places.

    The cleaning of the kitchen, pantry, passages, and kitchen
    stairs must always be over before breakfast, so that it may not
    interfere with the other business of the day. Everything should
    be ready, and the whole house should wear a comfortable aspect
    when the heads of the house and members of the family make their
    appearance. Nothing, it may be depended on, will so please the
    mistress of an establishment, as to notice that, although she
    has not been present to see that the work was done, attention to
    smaller matters has been carefully paid, with a view to giving
    her satisfaction and increasing her comfort.

83. BY THE TIME THAT THE COOK has performed the duties mentioned above,
and well swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen, the breakfast-bell will
most likely summon her to the parlour, to "bring in" the breakfast. It
is the cook's department, generally, in the smaller establishments, to
wait at breakfast, as the housemaid, by this time, has gone up-stairs
into the bedrooms, and has there applied herself to her various duties.
The cook usually answers the bells and single knocks at the door in the
early part of the morning, as the tradesmen, with whom it is her more
special business to speak, call at these hours.

84. IT IS IN HER PREPARATION OF THE DINNER that the cook begins to feel
the weight and responsibility of her situation, as she must take upon
herself all the dressing and the serving of the principal dishes, which
her skill and ingenuity have mostly prepared. Whilst these, however, are
cooking, she must be busy with her pastry, soups, gravies, ragouts, &c.
Stock, or what the French call _consommé_, being the basis of most made
dishes, must be always at hand, in conjunction with her sweet herbs and
spices for seasoning. "A place for everything, and everything in its
place," must be her rule, in order that time may not be wasted in
looking for things when they are wanted, and in order that the whole
apparatus of cooking may move with the regularity and precision of a
well-adjusted machine;--all must go on simultaneously. The vegetables
and sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany, and in
order that they may be suitable, the smallest oversight must not be made
in their preparation. When the dinner-hour has arrived, it is the duty
of the cook to dish-up such dishes as may, without injury, stand, for
some time, covered on the hot plate or in the hot closet; but such as
are of a more important or _recherché_ kind, must be delayed until the
order "to serve" is given from the drawing-room. Then comes haste; but
there must be no hurry,--all must work with order. The cook takes charge
of the fish, soups, and poultry; and the kitchen-maid of the vegetables,
sauces, and gravies. These she puts into their appropriate dishes,
whilst the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook. Everything must
be timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst great care should be
taken, that, between the first and second courses, no more time is
allowed to elapse than is necessary, for fear that the company in the
dining-room lose all relish for what has yet to come of the dinner. When
the dinner has been served, the most important feature in the daily life
of the cook is at an end. She must, however, now begin to look to the
contents of her larder, taking care to keep everything sweet and clean,
so that no disagreeable smells may arise from the gravies, milk, or meat
that may be there. These are the principal duties of a cook in a
first-rate establishment.

In smaller establishments, the housekeeper often conducts the higher
department of cooking (_see_ 58, 59, 60), and the cook, with the
assistance of a scullery-maid, performs some of the subordinate duties
of the kitchen-maid.

When circumstances render it necessary, the cook engages to perform the
whole of the work of the kitchen, and, in some places, a portion of the
house-work also.

85. WHILST THE COOK IS ENGAGED WITH HER MORNING DUTIES, the kitchen-maid
is also occupied with hers. Her first duty, after the fire is lighted,
is to sweep and clean the kitchen, and the various offices belonging to
it. This she does every morning, besides cleaning the stone steps at the
entrance of the house, the halls, the passages, and the stairs which
lead to the kitchen. Her general duties, besides these, are to wash and
scour all these places twice a week, with the tables, shelves, and
cupboards. She has also to dress the nursery and servants'-hall dinners,
to prepare all fish, poultry, and vegetables, trim meat joints and
cutlets, and do all such duties as may be considered to enter into the
cook's department in a subordinate degree.

86. THE DUTIES OF THE SCULLERY-MAID are to assist the cook; to keep the
scullery clean, and all the metallic as well as earthenware kitchen
utensils.

    The position of scullery-maid is not, of course, one of high
    rank, nor is the payment for her services large. But if she be
    fortunate enough to have over her a good kitchen-maid and clever
    cook, she may very soon learn to perform various little duties
    connected with cooking operations, which may be of considerable
    service in fitting her for a more responsible place. Now, it
    will be doubtless thought by the majority of our readers, that
    the fascinations connected with the position of the
    scullery-maid, are not so great as to induce many people to
    leave a comfortable home in order to work in a scullery. But we
    are acquainted with one instance in which the desire, on the
    part of a young girl, was so strong to become connected with the
    kitchen and cookery, that she absolutely left her parents, and
    engaged herself as a scullery-maid in a gentleman's house. Here
    she showed herself so active and intelligent, that she very
    quickly rose to the rank of kitchen-maid; and from this, so
    great was her gastronomical genius, she became, in a short space
    of time, one of the best women-cooks in England. After this, we
    think, it must be allowed, that a cook, like a poet, _nascitur,
    non fit_.

87. MODERN COOKERY stands so greatly indebted to the gastronomic
propensities of our French neighbours, that many of their terms are
adopted and applied by English artists to the same as well as similar
preparations of their own. A vocabulary of these is, therefore,
indispensable in a work of this kind. Accordingly, the following will be
found sufficiently complete for all ordinary purposes:--


EXPLANATION OF FRENCH TERMS USED IN MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ASPIC.--A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold game,
poultry, fish, &c. This, being of a transparent nature, allows the bird
which it covers to be seen through it. This may also be used for
decorating or garnishing.

ASSIETTE (plate).--_Assiettes_ are the small _entrées_ and
_hors-d'oeuvres_, the quantity of which does not exceed what a plate
will hold. At dessert, fruits, cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, &c., if
served upon a plate, are termed _assiettes_.--ASSIETTE VOLANTE is a
dish which a servant hands round to the guests, but is not placed upon
the table. Small cheese soufflés and different dishes, which ought to be
served very hot, are frequently made _assielles volantes_.

AU-BLEU.--Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a _bluish_
appearance.

BAIN-MARIE.--An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, in
which a smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming. This is very
useful for keeping articles hot, without altering their quantity or
quality. If you keep sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the soup
reduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as
reduces; but this is prevented by using the _bain-marie_, in which the
water should be very hot, but not boiling.

BÉCHAMEL.--French white sauce, now frequently used in English cookery.

BLANCH.--To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, &c., by plunging them
into boiling water for a short time, and afterwards plunging them into
cold water, there to remain until they are cold.

BLANQUETTE.--A sort of fricassee.

BOUILLI.--Beef or other meat boiled; but, generally speaking, boiled
beef is understood by the term.

BOUILLIE.--A French dish resembling hasty-pudding.

BOUILLON.--A thin broth or soup.

BRAISE.--To stew meat with fat bacon until it is tender, it having
previously been blanched.

BRAISIÈRE.--A saucepan having a lid with ledges, to put fire on the top.

BRIDER.--To pass a packthread through poultry, game, &c., to keep
together their members.

CARAMEL (burnt sugar).--This is made with a piece of sugar, of the size
of a nut, browned in the bottom of a saucepan; upon which a cupful of
stock is gradually poured, stirring all the time a glass of broth,
little by little. It may be used with the feather of a quill, to colour
meats, such as the upper part of fricandeaux; and to impart colour to
sauces. Caramel made with water instead of stock may be used to colour
_compôtes_ and other _entremets_.

CASSEROLE.--A crust of rice, which, after having been moulded into the
form of a pie, is baked, and then filled with a fricassee of white meat
or a purée of game.

COMPOTE.--A stew, as of fruit or pigeons.

CONSOMMÉ.--Rich stock, or gravy.

CROQUETTE.--Ball of fried rice or potatoes.

CROUTONS.--Sippets of bread.

DAUBIÈRE.--An oval stewpan, in which _daubes_ are cooked; _daubes_ being
meat or fowl stewed in sauce.

DÉSOSSER.--To _bone_, or take out the bones from poultry, game, or fish.
This is an operation requiring considerable experience.

ENTRÉES.--Small side or corner dishes, served with the first course.

ENTREMETS.--Small side or corner dishes, served with the second course.

ESCALOPES.--Collops; small, round, thin pieces of tender meat, or of
fish, beaten with the handle of a strong knife to make them tender.

FEUILLETAGE.--Puff-paste.

FLAMBER.--To singe fowl or game, after they have been picked.

FONCER.--To put in the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thin
broad slices of bacon.

GALETTE.--A broad thin cake.

GÂTEAU.--A cake, correctly speaking; but used sometimes to denote a
pudding and a kind of tart.

GLACER.--To glaze, or spread upon hot meats, or larded fowl, a thick and
rich sauce or gravy, called _glaze_. This is laid on with a feather or
brush, and in confectionary the term means to ice fruits and pastry with
sugar, which glistens on hardening.

HORS-D'OEUVRES.--Small dishes, or _assiettes volantes_ of sardines,
anchovies, and other relishes of this kind, served to the guests during
the first course. (_See_ ASSIETTES VOLANTES.)

LIT.--A bed or layer; articles in thin slices are placed in layers,
other articles, or seasoning, being laid between them.

MAIGRE.--Broth, soup, or gravy, made without meat.

MATELOTE.--A rich fish-stew, which is generally composed of carp, eels,
trout, or barbel. It is made with wine.

MAYONNAISE.--Cold sauce, or salad dressing.

MENU.--The bill of fare.

MERINGUE.--A kind of icing, made of whites of eggs and sugar, well
beaten.

MIROTON.--Larger slices of meat than collops; such as slices of beef for
a vinaigrette, or ragout or stew of onions.

MOUILLER.--To add water, broth, or other liquid, during the cooking.

PANER.--To cover over with very fine crumbs of bread, meats, or any
other articles to be cooked on the gridiron, in the oven, or frying-pan.

PIQUER.--To lard with strips of fat bacon, poultry, game, meat, &c. This
should always be done according to the vein of the meat, so that in
carving you slice the bacon across as well as the meat.

POÊLÉE.--Stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads,
fowls, and vegetables, to render them less insipid. This is rather an
expensive preparation.

PURÉE.--Vegetables, or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp, which is
afterwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the consistency of
very thick soup.

RAGOUT.--Stew or hash.

REMOULADE.--Salad dressing.

RISSOLES.--Pastry, made of light puff-paste, and cut into various forms,
and fried. They may be filled with fish, meat, or sweets.

ROUX.--Brown and white; French thickening.

SALMI.--Ragout of game previously roasted.

SAUCE PIQUANTE.--A sharp sauce, in which somewhat of a vinegar flavour
predominates.

SAUTER.--To dress with sauce in a saucepan, repeatedly moving it about.

TAMIS.--Tammy, a sort of open cloth or sieve through which to strain
broth and sauces, so as to rid them of small bones, froth, &c.

TOURTE.--Tart. Fruit pie.

TROUSSER.--To truss a bird; to put together the body and tie the wings
and thighs, in order to round it for roasting or boiling, each being
tied then with packthread, to keep it in the required form.

VOL-AU-VENT.--A rich crust of very fine puff-paste, which may be filled
with various delicate ragouts or fricassees, of fish, flesh, or fowl.
Fruit may also be inclosed in a _vol-au-vent_.




[Illustration]

SOUPS.


CHAPTER V.


GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS.

88. LEAN, JUICY BEEF, MUTTON, AND VEAL, form the basis of all good
soups; therefore it is advisable to procure those pieces which afford
the richest succulence, and such as are fresh-killed. Stale meat renders
them bad, and fat is not so well adapted for making them. The principal
art in composing good rich soup, is so to proportion the several
ingredients that the flavour of one shall not predominate over another,
and that all the articles of which it is composed, shall form an
agreeable whole. To accomplish this, care must be taken that the roots
and herbs are perfectly well cleaned, and that the water is proportioned
to the quantity of meat and other ingredients. Generally a quart of
water may be allowed to a pound of meat for soups, and half the quantity
for gravies. In making soups or gravies, gentle stewing or simmering is
incomparably the best. It may be remarked, however, that a really good
soup can never be made but in a well-closed vessel, although, perhaps,
greater wholesomeness is obtained by an occasional exposure to the air.
Soups will, in general, take from three to six hours doing, and are much
better prepared the day before they are wanted. When the soup is cold,
the fat may be much more easily and completely removed; and when it is
poured off, care must be taken not to disturb the settlings at the
bottom of the vessel, which are so fine that they will escape through a
sieve. A tamis is the best strainer, and if the soup is strained while
it is hot, let the tamis or cloth be previously soaked in cold water.
Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups about the
consistence of cream. To thicken and give body to soups and gravies,
potato-mucilage, arrow-root, bread-raspings, isinglass, flour and
butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal, in a little water rubbed well
together, are used. A piece of boiled beef pounded to a pulp, with a bit
of butter and flour, and rubbed through a sieve, and gradually
incorporated with the soup, will be found an excellent addition. When
the soup appears to be _too thin_ or _too weak_, the cover of the boiler
should be taken off, and the contents allowed to boil till some of the
watery parts have evaporated; or some of the thickening materials, above
mentioned, should be added. When soups and gravies are kept from day to
day in hot weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into
fresh scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In temperate
weather, every other day may be sufficient.

89. VARIOUS HERBS AND VEGETABLES are required for the purpose of making
soups and gravies. Of these the principal are,--Scotch barley, pearl
barley, wheat flour, oatmeal, bread-raspings, pease, beans, rice,
vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, mushroom or mushroom
ketchup, champignons, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, turnips, garlic,
shalots, and onions. Sliced onions, fried with butter and flour till
they are browned, and then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to
heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form the
basis of many of the fine relishes furnished by the cook. The older and
drier the onion, the stronger will be its flavour. Leeks, cucumber, or
burnet vinegar; celery or celery-seed pounded. The latter, though
equally strong, does not impart the delicate sweetness of the fresh
vegetable; and when used as a substitute, its flavour should be
corrected by the addition of a bit of sugar. Cress-seed, parsley, common
thyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram, sage, mint, winter
savoury, and basil. As fresh green basil is seldom to be procured, and
its fine flavour is soon lost, the best way of preserving the extract is
by pouring wine on the fresh leaves.

90. FOR THE SEASONING OF SOUPS, bay-leaves, tomato, tarragon, chervil,
burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, mace, black and white
pepper, essence of anchovy, lemon-peel, and juice, and Seville
orange-juice, are all taken. The latter imparts a finer flavour than the
lemon, and the acid is much milder. These materials, with wine, mushroom
ketchup, Harvey's sauce, tomato sauce, combined in various proportions,
are, with other ingredients, manipulated into an almost endless variety
of excellent soups and gravies. Soups, which are intended to constitute
the principal part of a meal, certainly ought not to be flavoured like
sauces, which are only designed to give a relish to some particular
dish.


SOUP, BROTH AND BOUILLON.

91. IT HAS BEEN ASSERTED, that English cookery is, nationally speaking,
far from being the best in the world. More than this, we have been
frequently told by brilliant foreign writers, half philosophers, half
_chefs_, that we are the _worst_ cooks on the face of the earth, and
that the proverb which alludes to the divine origin of food, and the
precisely opposite origin of its preparers, is peculiarly applicable to
us islanders. Not, however, to the inhabitants of the whole island; for,
it is stated in a work which treats of culinary operations, north of the
Tweed, that the "broth" of Scotland claims, for excellence and
wholesomeness, a very close second place to the _bouillon_, or common
soup of France. "_Three_ hot meals of broth and meat, for about the
price of ONE roasting joint," our Scottish brothers and sisters get,
they say; and we hasten to assent to what we think is now a very
well-ascertained fact. We are glad to note, however, that soups of
vegetables, fish, meat, and game, are now very frequently found in the
homes of the English middle classes, as well as in the mansions of the
wealthier and more aristocratic; and we take this to be one evidence,
that we are on the right road to an improvement in our system of
cookery. One great cause of many of the spoilt dishes and badly-cooked
meats which are brought to our tables, arises, we think, and most will
agree with us, from a non-acquaintance with "common, every-day things."
Entertaining this view, we intend to preface the chapters of this work
with a simple scientific _résumé_ of all those causes and circumstances
which relate to the food we have to prepare, and the theory and
chemistry of the various culinary operations. Accordingly, this is the
proper place to treat of the quality of the flesh of animals, and
describe some of the circumstances which influence it for good or bad.
We will, therefore, commence with the circumstance of _age_, and examine
how far this affects the quality of meat.

92. DURING THE PERIOD BETWEEN THE BIRTH AND MATURITY OF ANIMALS, their
flesh undergoes very considerable changes. For instance, when the animal
is young, the fluids which the tissues of the muscles contain, possess a
large proportion of what is called _albumen_. This albumen, which is
also the chief component of the white of eggs, possesses the peculiarity
of coagulating or hardening at a certain temperature, like the white of
a boiled egg, into a soft, white fluid, no longer soluble, or capable of
being dissolved in water. As animals grow older, this peculiar animal
matter gradually decreases, in proportion to the other constituents of
the juice of the flesh. Thus, the reason why veal, lamb, and young pork
are _white, and without gravy_ when cooked, is, that the large quantity
of albumen they contain hardens, or becomes coagulated. On the other
hand, the reason why beef and mutton are _brown, and have gravy_, is,
that the proportion of albumen they contain, is small, in comparison
with their greater quantity of fluid which is soluble, and not
coagulable.

93. THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH OF AN ANIMAL is considerably influenced by
the nature of the _food on which it has been fed_; for the food supplies
the material which produces the flesh. If the food be not suitable and
good, the meat cannot be good either; just as the paper on which these
words are printed, could not be good, if the rags from which it is made,
were not of a fine quality. To the experienced in this matter, it is
well known that the flesh of animals fed on farinaceous produce, such as
corn, pulse, &c., is firm, well-flavoured, and also economical in the
cooking; that the flesh of those fed on succulent and pulpy substances,
such as roots, possesses these qualities in a somewhat less degree;
whilst the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil, as linseed, is
greasy, high coloured, and gross in the fat, and if the food has been
used in large quantities, possessed of a rank flavour.

94. IT IS INDISPENSABLE TO THE GOOD QUALITY OF MEAT, that the animal
should be _perfectly healthy_ at the time of its slaughter. However
slight the disease in an animal may be, inferiority in the quality of
its flesh, as food, is certain to be produced. In most cases, indeed, as
the flesh of diseased animals has a tendency to very rapid putrefaction,
it becomes not only unwholesome, but absolutely poisonous, on account of
the absorption of the _virus_ of the unsound meat into the systems of
those who partake of it. The external indications of good and bad meat
will be described under its own particular head, but we may here premise
that the layer of all wholesome meat, when freshly killed, adheres
firmly to the bone.

95. ANOTHER CIRCUMSTANCE GREATLY AFFECTING THE QUALITY OF MEAT, is the
animal's treatment _before it is slaughtered_. This influences its value
and wholesomeness in no inconsiderable degree. It will be easy to
understand this, when we reflect on those leading principles by which
the life of an animal is supported and maintained. These are, the
digestion of its food, and the assimilation of that food into its
substance. Nature, in effecting this process, first reduces the food in
the stomach to a state of pulp, under the name of chyme, which passes
into the intestines, and is there divided into two principles, each
distinct from the other. One, a milk-white fluid,--the nutritive
portion,--is absorbed by innumerable vessels which open upon the mucous
membrane, or inner coat of the intestines. These vessels, or absorbents,
discharge the fluid into a common duct, or road, along which it is
conveyed to the large veins in the neighbourhood of the heart. Here it
is mixed with the venous blood (which is black and impure) returning
from every part of the body, and then it supplies the waste which is
occasioned in the circulating stream by the arterial (or pure) blood
having furnished matter for the substance of the animal. The blood of
the animal having completed its course through all parts, and having had
its waste recruited by the digested food, is now received into the
heart, and by the action of that organ it is urged through the lungs,
there to receive its purification from the air which the animal inhales.
Again returning to the heart, it is forced through the arteries, and
thence distributed, by innumerable ramifications, called capillaries,
bestowing to every part of the animal, life and nutriment. The other
principle--the innutritive portion--passes from the intestines, and is
thus got rid of. It will now be readily understood how flesh is affected
for bad, if an animal is slaughtered when the circulation of its blood
has been increased by over-driving, ill-usage, or other causes of
excitement, to such a degree of rapidity as to be too great for the
capillaries to perform their functions, and causing the blood to be
congealed in its minuter vessels. Where this has been the case, the meat
will be dark-coloured, and become rapidly putrid; so that self-interest
and humanity alike dictate kind and gentle treatment of all animals
destined to serve as food for man.


THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP-MAKING.

96. STOCK BEING THE BASIS of all meat soups, and, also, of all the
principal sauces, it is essential to the success of these culinary
operations, to know the most complete and economical method of
extracting, from a certain quantity of meat, the best possible stock or
broth. The theory and philosophy of this process we will, therefore,
explain, and then proceed to show the practical course to be adopted.

97. AS ALL MEAT is principally composed of fibres, fat, gelatine,
osmazome, and albumen, it is requisite to know that the FIBRES are
inseparable, constituting almost all that remains of the meat after it
has undergone a long boiling.

98. FAT is dissolved by boiling; but as it is contained in cells covered
by a very fine membrane, which never dissolves, a portion of it always
adheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the surface of the
stock, and is that which has escaped from the cells which were not
whole, or which have burst by boiling.

99. GELATINE is soluble: it is the basis and the nutritious portion of
the stock. When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when
cold, to become a jelly.

100. OSMAZOME is soluble even when cold, and is that part of the meat
which gives flavour and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animals
contains more _osmazome_ than that of young ones. Brown meats contain
more than white, and the former make the stock more fragrant. By
roasting meat, the osmazome appears to acquire higher properties; so, by
putting the remains of roast meats into your stock-pot, you obtain a
better flavour.

101. ALBUMEN is of the nature of the white of eggs; it can be dissolved
in cold or tepid water, but coagulates when it is put into water not
quite at the boiling-point. From this property in albumen, it is evident
that if the meat is put into the stock-pot when the water boils, or
after this is made to boil up quickly, the albumen, in both cases,
hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it remains
in the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from
dissolving; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. It
ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat,
always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece, as
the parts farthest from the surface always acquire _that degree_ of heat
which congeals it before entirely dissolving it.

102. BONES ought always to form a component part of the stock-pot. They
are composed of an earthy substance,--to which they owe their
solidity,--of gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. _Two
ounces_ of them contain as much gelatine as _one pound_ of meat; but in
them, this is so incased in the earthy substance, that boiling water can
dissolve only the surface of whole bones. By breaking them, however, you
can dissolve more, because you multiply their surfaces; and by reducing
them to powder or paste, you can dissolve them entirely; but you must
not grind them dry. We have said (99) that gelatine forms the basis of
stock; but this, though very nourishing, is entirely without taste; and
to make the stock savoury, it must contain _osmazome_. Of this, bones do
not contain a particle; and that is the reason why stock made entirely
of them, is not liked; but when you add meat to the broken or pulverized
bones, the osmazome contained in it makes the stock sufficiently
savoury.

103. In concluding this part of our subject, the following condensed
hints and directions should be attended to in the economy of
soup-making:--

I. BEEF MAKES THE BEST STOCK; veal stock has less colour and taste;
whilst mutton sometimes gives it a tallowy smell, far from agreeable,
unless the meat has been previously roasted or broiled. Fowls add very
little to the flavour of stock, unless they be old and fat. Pigeons,
when they are old, add the most flavour to it; and a rabbit or partridge
is also a great improvement. From the freshest meat the best stock is
obtained.

II. IF THE MEAT BE BOILED solely to make stock, it must be cut up into
the smallest possible pieces; but, generally speaking, if it is desired
to have good stock and a piece of savoury meat as well, it is necessary
to put a rather large piece into the stock-pot, say sufficient for two
or three days, during which time the stock will keep well in all
weathers. Choose the freshest meat, and have it cut as thick as
possible; for if it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look well, and
will be very soon spoiled by the boiling.

III. NEVER WASH MEAT, as it deprives its surface of all its juices;
separate it from the bones, and tie it round with tape, so that its
shape may be preserved, then put it into the stock-pot, and for each
pound of meat, let there be one pint of water; press it down with the
hand, to allow the air, which it contains, to escape, and which often
raises it to the top of the water.

IV. PUT THE STOCK-POT ON A GENTLE FIRE, so that it may heat gradually.
The albumen will first dissolve, afterwards coagulate; and as it is in
this state lighter than the liquid, it will rise to the surface;
bringing with it all its impurities. It is this which makes _the scum_.
The rising of the hardened albumen has the same effect in clarifying
stock as the white of eggs; and, as a rule, it may be said that the more
scum there is, the clearer will be the stock. Always take care that the
fire is very regular.

V. REMOVE THE SCUM when it rises thickly, and do not let the stock boil,
because then one portion of the scum will be dissolved, and the other go
to the bottom of the pot; thus rendering it very difficult to obtain a
clear broth. If the fire is regular, it will not be necessary to add
cold water in order to make the scum rise; but if the fire is too large
at first, it will then be necessary to do so.

VI. WHEN THE STOCK IS WELL SKIMMED, and begins to boil, put in salt and
vegetables, which may be two or three carrots, two turnips, one parsnip,
a bunch of leeks and celery tied together. You can add, according to
taste, a piece of cabbage, two or three cloves stuck in an onion, and a
tomato. The latter gives a very agreeable flavour to the stock. If fried
onion be added, it ought, according to the advice of a famous French
_chef_, to be tied in a little bag: without this precaution, the colour
of the stock is liable to be clouded.

VII. BY THIS TIME we will now suppose that you have chopped the bones
which were separated from the meat, and those which were left from the
roast meat of the day before. Remember, as was before pointed out, that
the more these are broken, the more gelatine you will have. The best way
to break them up is to pound them roughly in an iron mortar, adding,
from time to time, a little water, to prevent them getting heated. It is
a great saving thus to make use of the bones of meat, which, in too many
English families, we fear, are entirely wasted; for it is certain, as
previously stated (No. 102), that two ounces of bone contain as much
gelatine (which is the nutritive portion of stock) as one pound of meat.
In their broken state tie them up in a bag, and put them in the
stock-pot; adding the gristly parts of cold meat, and trimmings, which
can be used for no other purpose. If, to make up the weight, you have
received from the butcher a piece of mutton or veal, broil it slightly
over a clear fire before putting it in the stock-pot, and be very
careful that it does not contract the least taste of being smoked or
burnt.

VIII. ADD NOW THE VEGETABLES, which, to a certain extent, will stop the
boiling of the stock. Wait, therefore, till it simmers well up again,
then draw it to the side of the fire, and keep it gently simmering till
it is served, preserving, as before said, your fire always the same.
Cover the stock-pot well, to prevent evaporation; do not fill it up,
even if you take out a little stock, unless the meat is exposed; in
which case a little boiling water may be added, but only enough to cover
it. After six hours' slow and gentle simmering, the stock is done; and
it should not be continued on the fire, longer than is necessary, or it
will tend to insipidity.

_Note_.--It is on a good stock, or first good broth and sauce, that
excellence in cookery depends. If the preparation of this basis of the
culinary art is intrusted to negligent or ignorant persons, and the
stock is not well skimmed, but indifferent results will be obtained. The
stock will never be clear; and when it is obliged to be clarified, it is
deteriorated both in quality and flavour. In the proper management of
the stock-pot an immense deal of trouble is saved, inasmuch as one
stock, in a small dinner, serves for all purposes. Above all things, the
greatest economy, consistent with excellence, should be practised, and
the price of everything which enters the kitchen correctly ascertained.
The _theory_ of this part of Household Management may appear trifling;
but its practice is extensive, and therefore it requires the best
attention.

[Illustration]




RECIPES.


CHAPTER VI.


FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

[_It will be seen, by reference to the following Recipes, that an
entirely original and most intelligible system has been pursued in
explaining the preparation of each dish. We would recommend the young
housekeeper, cook, or whoever may be engaged in the important task of
"getting ready" the dinner, or other meal, to follow precisely the order
in which the recipes are given. Thus, let them first place on their
table all the INGREDIENTS necessary; then the modus operandi, or MODE of
preparation, will be easily managed. By a careful reading, too, of the
recipes, there will not be the slightest difficulty in arranging a
repast for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will be gained
of the TIME the cooling of each dish will occupy, of the periods at
which it is SEASONABLE, as also of its_ AVERAGE COST.

_The addition of the natural history, and the description of the various
properties of the edible articles in common use in every family, will be
serviceable both in a practical and an educational point of view._

_Speaking specially of the Recipes for Soups, it may be added, that by
the employment of the_ BEST, MEDIUM, _or_ COMMON STOCK, _the quality of
the Soups and their cost may be proportionately increased or lessened._]


STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUPS.

RICH STRONG STOCK.

104. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal,
3/4 lb. of good lean ham; any poultry trimmings; 3 small onions, 3 small
carrots, 3 turnips (the latter should be omitted in summer, lest they
ferment), 1 head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, when obtainable; 1
tomato, a bunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley; 1-1/2 oz. of
salt, 12 white peppercorns, 6 cloves, 3 small blades of mace, 4 quarts
of water.

_Mode_.--Line a delicately clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin broad
slices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat; cut up the beef and
veal in pieces about 3 inches square, and lay them on the ham; set it on
the stove, and draw it down, and stir frequently. When the meat is
equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the poultry trimmings,
and pour in the cold water. Skim well, and occasionally add a little
cold water, to stop its boiling, until it becomes quite clear; then put
in all the other ingredients, and simmer very slowly for 5 hours. Do not
let it come to a brisk boil, that the stock be not wasted, and that its
colour may be preserved. Strain through a very fine hair sieve, or
tammy, and it will be fit for use.

_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.


MEDIUM STOCK.

105. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, or 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal,
or 2 lbs. of each; any bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat, 1/2 a
lb. of lean bacon or ham, 2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, each stuck
with 3 cloves; 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1/2 a leek, 1 head of celery, 2 oz.
of salt, 1/2 a teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 large blade of mace, 1
small bunch of savoury herbs, 4 quarts and 1/2 pint of cold water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about 3 inches
square; rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; put in 1/2 a pint
of water, the meat, and all the other ingredients. Cover the stewpan,
and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. When
the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance,
add 4 quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently for 5 hours. As we
have said before, do not let it boil quickly. Skim off every particle of
grease whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair sieve.

This is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and will be
found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes.

_Time_.--5-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per quart.


ECONOMICAL STOCK.

106. INGREDIENTS.--The liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled,
say 4 quarts; trimmings of fresh meat or poultry, shank-bones, &c.,
roast-beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish; vegetables, spices,
and the same seasoning as in the foregoing recipe.

_Mode_.--Let all the ingredients simmer gently for 6 hours, taking care
to skim carefully at first. Strain it off, and put by for use.

_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart.


WHITE STOCK.

(_To be Used in the Preparation of White Soups_.)

107. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, 4
slices of lean ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, 12 white
peppercorns, 1 oz. of salt, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. butter, 4 quarts of
water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the veal, and put it with the bones and trimmings of
poultry, and the ham, into the stewpan, which has been rubbed with the
butter. Moisten with 1/2 a pint of water, and simmer till the gravy
begins to flow. Then add the 4 quarts of water and the remainder of the
ingredients; simmer for 5 hours. After skimming and straining it
carefully through a very fine hair sieve, it will be ready for use.

_Time_.--5-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per quart.

_Note_.--When stronger stock is desired, double the quantity of veal, or
put in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled,
is an excellent addition to all white stock or soups.


BROWNING FOR STOCK.

108. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of powdered sugar, and 1/2 a pint of water.

_Mode_.--Place the sugar in a stewpan over a slow fire until it begins
to melt, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until it becomes black,
then add the water, and let it dissolve. Cork closely, and use a few
drops when required.

_Note_.--In France, burnt onions are made use of for the purpose of
browning. As a general rule, the process of browning is to be
discouraged, as apt to impart a slightly unpleasant flavour to the
stock, and, consequently, all soups made from it.


TO CLARIFY STOCK.

109. INGREDIENTS.--The whites of 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of water, 2 quarts of
stock.

_Mode_.--Supposing that by some accident the soup is not quite clear,
and that its quantity is 2 quarts, take the whites of 2 eggs, carefully
separated from their yolks, whisk them well together with the water, and
add gradually the 2 quarts of boiling stock, still whisking. Place the
soup on the fire, and when boiling and well skimmed, whisk the eggs with
it till nearly boiling again; then draw it from the fire, and let it
settle, until the whites of the eggs become separated. Pass through a
fine cloth, and the soup should be clear.

_Note_.--The rule is, that all clear soups should be of a light straw
colour, and should not savour too strongly of the meat; and that all
white or brown thick soups should have no more consistency than will
enable them to adhere slightly to the spoon when hot. All _purées_
should be somewhat thicker.


ALMOND SOUP.

110. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of lean beef or veal, 1/2 a scrag of mutton, 1
oz. of vermicelli, 4 blades of mace, 6 cloves, 1/2 lb. of sweet almonds,
the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 gill of thick cream, rather more than 2 quarts of
water.

_Mode_.--Boil the beef, or veal, and the mutton, gently in water that
will cover them, till the gravy is very strong, and the meat very
tender; then strain off the gravy, and set it on the fire with the
specified quantities of vermicelli, mace, and cloves, to 2 quarts. Let
it boil till it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready the almonds,
blanched and pounded very fine; the yolks of the eggs boiled hard;
mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with a little of the soup, lest the
latter should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp, and keep
adding to them, by degrees, a little soup until they are thoroughly
mixed together. Let the soup be cool when mixing, and do it perfectly
smooth. Strain it through a sieve, set it on the fire, stir frequently,
and serve hot. Just before taking it up, add the cream.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 2s. 3d.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: ALMOND & BLOSSOM.]

    THE ALMOND-TREE.--This tree is indigenous to the northern parts
    of Asia and Africa, but it is now cultivated in Europe,
    especially in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. It flowers
    in spring, and produces its fruit in August. Although there are
    two kinds of almonds, the _sweet_ and the _bitter,_ they are
    considered as only varieties of the same species. The best sweet
    almonds brought to England, are called the Syrian or Jordan, and
    come from Malaga; the inferior qualities are brought from
    Valentia and Italy. _Bitter_ almonds come principally from
    Magadore. Anciently, the almond was much esteemed by the nations
    of the East. Jacob included it among the presents which he
    designed for Joseph. The Greeks called it the Greek or Thasian
    nut, and the Romans believed that by eating half a dozen of
    them, they were secured against drunkenness, however deeply they
    might imbibe. Almonds, however, are considered as very
    indigestible. The _bitter_ contain, too, principles which
    produce two violent poisons,--prussic acid and a kind of
    volatile oil. It is consequently dangerous to eat them in large
    quantities. Almonds pounded together with a little sugar and
    water, however, produce a milk similar to that which is yielded
    by animals. Their oil is used for making fine soap, and their
    cake as a cosmetic.

APPLE SOUP.

111. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of good boiling apples, 3/4 teaspoonful of
white pepper, 6 cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste, 3 quarts of medium
stock.

_Mode_.--Peel and quarter the apples, taking out their cores; put them
into the stock, stew them gently till tender. Rub the whole through a
strainer, add the seasoning, give it one boil up, and serve.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s.

_Seasonable_ from September to December.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM.]

    THE APPLE.--This useful fruit is mentioned in Holy Writ; and
    Homer describes it as valuable in his time. It was brought from
    the East by the Romans, who held it in the highest estimation.
    Indeed, some of the citizens of the "Eternal city" distinguished
    certain favourite apples by their names. Thus the Manlians were
    called after Manlius, the Claudians after Claudius, and the
    Appians after Appius. Others were designated after the country
    whence they were brought; as the Sidonians, the Epirotes, and
    the Greeks. The best varieties are natives of Asia, and have, by
    grafting them upon others, been introduced into Europe. The
    crab, found in our hedges, is the only variety indigenous to
    Britain; therefore, for the introduction of other kinds we are,
    no doubt, indebted to the Romans. In the time of the Saxon
    heptarchy, both Devon and Somerset were distinguished as _the
    apple country_; and there are still existing in Herefordshire
    some trees said to have been planted in the time of William the
    Conqueror. From that time to this, the varieties of this
    precious fruit have gone on increasing, and are now said to
    number upwards of 1,500. It is peculiar to the temperate zone,
    being found neither in Lapland, nor within the tropics. The best
    baking apples for early use are the Colvilles; the best for
    autumn are the rennets and pearmains; and the best for winter
    and spring are russets. The best table, or eating apples, are
    the Margarets for early use; the Kentish codlin and summer
    pearmain for summer; and for autumn, winter, or spring, the
    Dowton, golden and other pippins, as the ribstone, with small
    russets. As a food, the apple cannot be considered to rank high,
    as more than the half of it consists of water, and the rest of
    its properties are not the most nourishing. It is, however, a
    useful adjunct to other kinds of food, and, when cooked, is
    esteemed as slightly laxative.

ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM) SOUP.

(_A White Soup_.)

112. INGREDIENTS.--3 slices of lean bacon or ham, 1/2 a head of celery,
1 turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, 1 pint of
boiling milk, or 1/2 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2
lumps of sugar, 2-1/2 quarts of white stock.

_Mode_.--Put the bacon and vegetables, which should be cut into thin
slices, into the stewpan with the butter. Braise these for 1/4 of an
hour, keeping them well stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, and after
cutting them into thin slices, add them, with a pint of stock, to the
other ingredients. When these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp,
put in the remainder of the stock. Stir it well, adding the seasoning,
and when it has simmered for five minutes, pass it through a strainer.
Now pour it back into the stewpan, let it again simmer five minutes,
taking care to skim it well, and stir it to the boiling milk or cream.
Serve with small sippets of bread fried in butter.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 2d.

_Seasonable_ from June to October.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


ASPARAGUS SOUP.

I.

113. INGREDIENTS.--5 lbs. of lean beef, 3 slices of bacon, 1/2 pint of
pale ale, a few leaves of white beet, spinach, 1 cabbage lettuce, a
little mint, sorrel, and marjoram, a pint of asparagus-tops cut small,
the crust of 1 French roll, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Put the beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into a
stewpan, with the bacon at the bottom; cover it close, and set it on a
slow fire, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn. Put in the
water and ale, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it stew
gently for 2 hours; then strain the liquor, and take off the fat, and
add the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce, and mint, sorrel, and
sweet marjoram, pounded. Let these boil up in the liquor, then put in
the asparagus-tops cut small, and allow them to boil till all is tender.
Serve hot, with the French roll in the dish.

_Time_.--Altogether 3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ from May to August.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


II.

114. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of split peas, a teacupful of gravy, 4
young onions, 1 lettuce cut small, 1/2 a head of celery, 1/2 a pint of
asparagus cut small, 1/2 a pint of cream, 3 quarts of water: colour the
soup with spinach juice.

_Mode_.--Boil the peas, and rub them through a sieve; add the gravy, and
then stew by themselves the celery, onions, lettuce, and asparagus, with
the water. After this, stew altogether, and add the colouring and cream,
and serve.

_Time_.--Peas 2-1/2 hours, vegetables 1 hour; altogether 4 hours.
_Average cost_ per quart, 1s.

[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.]

    ASPARAGUS.--The ancients called all the sprouts of young
    vegetables asparagus, whence the name, which is now limited to a
    particular species, embracing artichoke, alisander, asparagus,
    cardoon, rampion, and sea-kale. They are originally mostly wild
    seacoast plants; and, in this state, asparagus may still be
    found on the northern as well as southern shores of Britain. It
    is often vulgarly called, in London, _sparrowgrass_; and, in
    it's cultivated form, hardly bears any resemblance to the
    original plant. Immense quantities of it are raised for the
    London market, at Mortlake and Deptford; but it belongs rather
    to the classes of luxurious than necessary food. It is light and
    easily digested, but is not very nutritious.

BAKED SOUP.

115. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of any kind of meat, any trimmings or odd
pieces; 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint of split peas, pepper
and salt to taste, 4 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat and vegetables in slices, add to them the rice and
peas, season with pepper and salt. Put the whole in a jar, fill up with
the water, cover very closely, and bake for 4 hours.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons.

_Note_.--This will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup, and will be
convenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed than
boiling.


BARLEY SOUP.

116. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, a
large bunch of parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and pepper, 4 quarts
of water.

_Mode_.--Put in all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 3 hours.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter.

[Illustration: BARLEY.]

    BARLEY.--This, in the order of cereal grasses, is, in Britain,
    the next plant to wheat in point of value, and exhibits several
    species and varieties. From what country it comes originally, is
    not known, but it was cultivated in the earliest ages of
    antiquity, as the Egyptians were afflicted with the loss of it
    in the ear, in the time of Moses. It was a favourite grain with
    the Athenians, but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the
    Romans. Notwithstanding this, however, it was much used by them,
    as it was in former times by the English, and still is, in the
    Border counties, in Cornwall, and also in Wales. In other parts
    of England, it is used mostly for malting purposes. It is less
    nutritive than wheat; and in 100 parts, has of starch 79, gluten
    6, saccharine matter 7, husk 8. It is, however, a lighter and
    less stimulating food than wheat, which renders a decoction of
    it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak.

BREAD SOUP.

(_Economical_.)

117. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of bread crusts, 2 oz. butter, 1 quart of
common stock.

_Mode_.--Boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter; beat the
whole with a spoon, and keep it boiling till the bread and stock are
well mixed. Season with a little salt.

_Time_.--Half an hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Note_.--This is a cheap recipe, and will be found useful where extreme
economy is an object.

[Illustration: QUERN, or GRINDING-MILL.]

    BREAD.--The origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of
    distant ages. The Greeks attributed its invention to Pan; but
    before they, themselves, had an existence, it was, no doubt, in
    use among the primitive nations of mankind. The Chaldeans and
    the Egyptians were acquainted with it, and Sarah, the companion
    of Abraham, mixed flour and water together, kneaded it, and
    covered it with ashes on the hearth. The Scriptures inform us
    that leavened bread was known to the Israelites, but it is not
    known when the art of fermenting it was discovered. It is said
    that the Romans learnt it during their wars with Perseus, king
    of Macedon, and that it was introduced to the "imperial city"
    about 200 years before the birth of Christ. With them it no
    doubt found its way into Britain; but after their departure from
    the island, it probably ceased to be used. We know that King
    Alfred allowed the unfermented cakes to burn in the neatherd's
    cottage; and that, even in the sixteenth century, unfermented
    cakes, kneaded by the women, were the only kind of bread known
    to the inhabitants of Norway and Sweden. The Italians of this
    day consume the greater portion of their flour in the form of
    _polenta_, or soft pudding, vermicelli, and macaroni; and, in
    the remoter districts of Scotland, much unfermented bread is
    still used. We give a cut of the _quern_ grinding-mill, which,
    towards the end of the last century, was in use in that country,
    and which is thus described by Dr. Johnson in his "Journey to
    the Hebrides:"--"It consists of two stones about a foot and half
    in diameter; the lower is a little convex, to which the
    concavity of the upper must be fitted. In the middle of the
    upper stone is a round hole, and on one side is a long handle.
    The grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole with one
    hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn slides
    down the convexity of the lower stone, and by the motion of the
    upper, is ground in its passage." Such a primitive piece of
    machinery, it may safely be said, has entirely disappeared from
    this country.--In other parts of this work, we shall have
    opportunities of speaking of bread and bread-making, which, from
    its great and general use in the nourishment of mankind, has
    emphatically been called the "staff of life." The necessity,
    therefore, of having it both pure and good is of the first
    importance.

CABBAGE SOUP.

118. INGREDIENTS.--1 large cabbage, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 4 or 5 slices
of lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock No.
105.

_Mode_.--Scald the cabbage, exit it up and drain it. Line the stewpan
with the bacon, put in the cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten with
skimmings from the stock, and simmer very gently, till the cabbage is
tender; add the stock, stew softly for half an hour, and carefully skim
off every particle of fat. Season and serve.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: CABBAGE SEEDING.]

    THE CABBAGE.--It is remarkable, that although there is no
    country in the world now more plentifully supplied with fruits
    and vegetables than Great Britain, yet the greater number of
    these had no existence in it before the time of Henry VIII.
    Anderson, writing under the date of 1548, says, "The English
    cultivated scarcely any vegetables before the last two
    centuries. At the commencement of the reign, of Henry VIII.
    neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any
    other comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of
    the kingdom; they came from Holland and Flanders." The original
    of all the cabbage tribe is the wild plant _sea-colewort_, which
    is to be found _wasting_ whatever sweetness it may have on the
    desert air, on many of the cliffs of the south coast of England.
    In this state, it scarcely weighs more than half an ounce, yet,
    in a cultivated state, to what dimensions can it be made to
    grow! However greatly the whole of the tribe is esteemed among
    the moderns, by the ancients they were held in yet higher
    estimation. The Egyptians adored and raised altars to them, and
    the Greeks and Romans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues
    to them. Cato affirmed, that the cabbage cured all diseases, and
    declared, that it was to its use that the Romans were enabled to
    live in health and without the assistance of physicians for 600
    years. It was introduced by that people into Germany, Gaul, and,
    no doubt, Britain; although, in this last, it may have been
    suffered to pass into desuetude for some centuries. The whole
    tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive, and forms a
    valuable adjunct to animal food.

SOUP A LA CANTATRICE.

(_An Excellent Soup, very Beneficial for the Voice_.)

119. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of sago, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 3
eggs, 1 lump of sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf (if liked), 2
quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Having washed the sago in boiling water, let it be gradually
added to the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for 1/2 an hour, when it
should be well dissolved. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add to them the
boiling cream; stir these quickly in the soup, and serve immediately. Do
not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle.

_Time_.--40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago and
eggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat.
In various quantities, and in different preparations, these have been
partaken of by the principal singers of the day, including the
celebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and, as they have always
avowed, with considerable advantage to the voice, in singing.


CARROT SOUP.

I.

120. INGREDIENTS.--4 quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef
has been boiled, a few beef-bones, 6 large carrots, 2 large onions, 1
turnip; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste; cayenne.

_Mode_.--Put the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper, and salt, into a
stewpan, and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and cut the carrots thin, strain
the soup on them, and stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hair
sieve or coarse cloth; then boil the pulp with the soup, which should be
of the consistency of pea-soup. Add cayenne. Pulp only the red part of
the carrot, and make this soup the day before it is wanted.

_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1-1/2d.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.


II.

121. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of carrots, 3 oz. of butter, seasoning to
taste of salt and cayenne, 2 quarts of stock or gravy soup.

_Mode_.--Scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots, wash, and wipe
them dry, and then reduce them into quarter-inch slices. Put the butter
into a large stewpan, and when it is melted, add 2 lbs. of the sliced
carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour without browning. Add to
them the soup, and allow them to simmer till tender,--say for nearly an
hour. Press them through a strainer with the soup, and add salt and
cayenne if required. Boil the whole gently for 5 minutes, skim well, and
serve as hot as possible.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 1d.

[Illustration: TAZZA AND CARROT LEAVES.]

    THE CARROT.--There is a wild carrot which grows in England; but
    it is white and small, and not much esteemed. The garden carrot
    in general use, was introduced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
    and was, at first, so highly esteemed, that the ladies wore
    leaves of it in their head-dresses. It is of great value in the
    culinary art, especially for soups and stews. It can be used
    also for beer instead of malt, and, in distillation, it yields a
    large quantity of spirit. The carrot is proportionably valuable
    as it has more of the red than the yellow part. There is a large
    red variety much used by the farmers for colouring butter. As a
    garden vegetable, it is what is called the orange-carrot that is
    usually cultivated. As a fattening food for cattle, it is
    excellent; but for man it is indigestible, on account of its
    fibrous matter. Of 1,000 parts, 95 consist of sugar, and 3 of
    starch.--The accompanying cut represents a pretty winter
    ornament, obtained by placing a cut from the top of the
    carrot-root in a shallow vessel of water, when the young leaves
    spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness.

CELERY SOUP.

122. INGREDIENTS.--9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoonful of salt, nutmeg to
taste, 1 lump of sugar, 1/2 pint of strong stock, a pint of cream, and 2
quarts of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Cut the celery into small pieces; throw it into the water,
seasoned with the nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil it till sufficiently
tender; pass it through a sieve, add the stock, and simmer it for half
an hour. Now put in the cream, bring it to the boiling point, and serve
immediately.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.--This soup can be made brown, instead of white, by omitting the
cream, and colouring it a little. When celery cannot be procured, half a
drachm of the seed, finely pounded, will give a flavour to the soup, if
put in a quarter of an hour before it is done. A little of the essence
of celery will answer the same purpose.

    CELERY.--This plant is indigenous to Britain, and, in its wild
    state, grows by the side of ditches and along some parts of the
    seacoast. In this state it is called _smallaqe_, and, to some
    extent, is a dangerous narcotic. By cultivation, however, it has
    been brought to the fine flavour which the garden plant
    possesses. In the vicinity of Manchester it is raised to an
    enormous size. When our natural observation is assisted by the
    accurate results ascertained by the light of science, how
    infinitely does it enhance our delight in contemplating the
    products of nature! To know, for example, that the endless
    variety of colour which we see in plants is developed only by
    the rays of the sun, is to know a truism sublime by its very
    comprehensiveness. The cause of the whiteness of celery is
    nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation, and in
    order that this effect may be produced, the plant is almost
    wholly covered with earth; the tops of the leaves alone being
    suffered to appear above the ground.

CHANTILLY SOUP.

123. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of young green peas, a small bunch of
parsley, 2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Boil the peas till quite tender, with the parsley and onions;
then rub them through a sieve, and pour the stock to them. Do not let it
boil after the peas are added, or you will spoil the colour. Serve very
hot.

_Time_.--Half an hour. _Average_ cost, 1s. 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--Cold peas pounded in a mortar, with a little stock added to
them, make a very good soup in haste.

    Parsley.--Among the Greeks, in the classic ages, a crown of
    parsley was awarded, both in the Nemaean and Isthmian games, and
    the voluptuous Anacreon pronounces this beautiful herb the
    emblem of joy and festivity. It has an elegant leaf, and is
    extensively used in the culinary art. When it was introduced to
    Britain is not known. There are several varieties,--the
    _plain_-leaved and the _curled_-leaved, _celery_-parsley,
    _Hamburg_ parsley, and _purslane_. The curled is the best, and,
    from the form of its leaf, has a beautiful appearance on a dish
    as a garnish. Its flavour is, to many, very agreeable in soups;
    and although to rabbits, hares, and sheep it is a luxury, to
    parrots it is a poison. The celery-parsley is used as a celery,
    and the Hamburg is cultivated only for its roots, which are used
    as parsnips or carrots, to eat with meat. The purslane is a
    native of South America, and is not now much in use.

CHESTNUT (SPANISH) SOUP.

124. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of Spanish chestnuts, 1/4 pint of cream;
seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and mace; 1 quart of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Take the outer rind from the chestnuts, and put them into a
large pan of warm water. As soon as this becomes too hot for the fingers
to remain in it, take out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and immerse
them in cold water, and wipe and weigh them. Now cover them with good
stock, and stew them gently for rather more than 3/4 of an hour, or
until they break when touched with a fork; then drain, pound, and rub
them through a fine sieve reversed; add sufficient stock, mace, cayenne,
and salt, and stir it often until it boils, and put in the cream. The
stock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup, when
its sweetness is not objected to, or it may, in part, be added to it;
and the rule is, that 3/4 lb. of chestnuts should be given to each quart
of soup.

_Time_.--rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

[Illustration: CHESTNUT.]

    THE CHESTNUT.--This fruit is said, by some, to have originally
    come from Sardis, in Lydia; and by others, from Castanea, a city
    of Thessaly, from which it takes its name. By the ancients it
    was much used as a food, and is still common in France and
    Italy, to which countries it is, by some, considered indigenous.
    In the southern part of the European continent, it is eaten both
    raw and roasted. The tree was introduced into Britain by the
    Romans; but it only flourishes in the warmer parts of the
    island, the fruit rarely arriving at maturity in Scotland. It
    attains a great age, as well as an immense size. As a food, it
    is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts, and,
    therefore, the easiest of digestion. The tree called the _horse
    chestnut_ is very different, although its fruit very much
    resembles that of the other. Its "nuts," though eaten by horses
    and some other animals, are unsuitable for human food.

COCOA-NUT SOUP.

125. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of grated cocoa-nut, 6 oz. of rice flour, 1/2 a
teaspoonful of mace; seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt; 1/4 of a
pint of boiling cream, 3 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Take the dark rind from the cocoa-nut, and grate it down small
on a clean grater; weigh it, and allow, for each quart of stock, 2 oz.
of the cocoa-nut. Simmer it gently for 1 hour in the stock, which should
then be strained closely from it, and thickened for table.

_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 3d.

_Seasonable_ in Autumn.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

[Illustration: COCOA-NUT PALM.]

[Illustration: NUT & BLOSSOM.]

    THE COCOA-NUT.--This is the fruit of one of the palms, than
    which it is questionable if there is any other species of tree
    marking, in itself, so abundantly the goodness of Providence, in
    making provision for the wants of man. It grows wild in the
    Indian seas, and in the eastern parts of Asia; and thence it has
    been introduced into every part of the tropical regions. To the
    natives of those climates, its bark supplies the material for
    creating their dwellings; its leaves, the means of roofing them;
    and the leaf-stalks, a kind of gauze for covering their windows,
    or protecting the baby in the cradle. It is also made into
    lanterns, masks to screen the face from the heat of the sun,
    baskets, wicker-work, and even a kind of paper for writing on.
    Combs, brooms, torches, ropes, matting, and sailcloth are made
    of its fibers. With these, too, beds are made and cushions
    stuffed. Oars are supplied by the leaves; drinking-cups, spoons,
    and other domestic utensils by the shells of the nuts; milk by
    its juice, of which, also, a kind of honey and sugar are
    prepared. When fermented, it furnishes the means of
    intoxication; and when the fibres are burned, their ashes supply
    an alkali for making soap. The buds of the tree bear a striking
    resemblance to cabbage when boiled; but when they are cropped,
    the tree dies. In a fresh state, the kernel is eaten raw, and
    its juice is a most agreeable and refreshing beverage. When the
    nut is imported to this country, its fruit is, in general,
    comparatively dry, and is considered indigestible. The tree is
    one of the least productive of the palm tribe.

SOUP A LA CRECY.

126. INGREDIENTS.--4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 cut lettuce, and
chervil; 2 oz. butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls,
half a teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Put the vegetables with the butter in the stewpan, and let them
simmer 5 minutes; then add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, and stew
gently for half an hour. Now fill it up with the remainder of the stock,
let it boil another hour, and put in the crumb of the rolls. When well
soaked, rub all through a tammy. Have ready the rice boiled; pour the
soup over this, and serve.

_Time_.--1-3/4 hour. _Average cost_,1s. 2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: THE LENTIL.]

    THE LENTIL.--This belongs to the legumious or _pulse_ kind of
    vegetables, which rank next to the corn plants in their
    nutritive properties. The lentil is a variety of the bean tribe,
    but in England is not used as human food, although considered
    the best of all kinds for pigeons. On the Continent it is
    cultivated for soups, as well as for other preparations for the
    table; and among the presents which David received from Shobi,
    as recounted in the Scriptures, were beans, lentils, and parched
    pulse. Among the Egyptians it was extensively used, and among
    the Greeks, the Stoics had a maxim, which declared, that "a wise
    man acts always with reason, and prepares his own lentils."
    Among the Romans it was not much esteemed, and from them the
    English may have inherited a prejudice against it, on account,
    it is said, of its rendering men indolent. It takes its name
    from _lentus_ 'slow,' and, according to Pliny, produces mildness
    and moderation of temper.

CUCUMBER SOUP (French Recipe).

127. INGREDIENTS.--1 large cucumber, a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, a little chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces, salt and pepper
to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of medium stock
No. 105.

_Mode_.--Pare the cucumber, quarter it, and take out the seeds; cut it
in thin slices, put these on a plate with a little salt, to draw the
water from them; drain, and put them in your stewpan, with the butter.
When they are warmed through, without being browned, pour the stock on
them. Add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and boil for 40 minutes.
Mix the well-beaten yolks of the eggs with the cream, which add at the
moment of serving.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from June to September.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

    THE CUCUMBER.--The antiquity of this fruit is very great. In the
    sacred writings we find that the people of Israel regretted it,
    whilst sojourning in the desert; and at the present time, the
    cucumber, and other fruits of its class, form a large portion of
    the food of the Egyptian people. By the Eastern nations
    generally, as well as by the Greeks and Romans, it was greatly
    esteemed. Like the melon, it was originally brought from Asia by
    the Romans, and in the 14th century it was common in England,
    although, in the time of the wars of "the Roses," it seems no
    longer to have been cultivated. It is a cold food, and of
    difficult digestion when eaten raw. As a preserved sweetmeat,
    however, it is esteemed one of the most agreeable.

EGG SOUP.

128. INGREDIENTS.--A tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, 2 small blades of
finely-pounded mace, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of cold stock, and
put in the eggs; throw them into boiling stock, stirring all the time.
Simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Season and serve with a French roll in the
tureen, or fried sippets of bread.

_Time_. 1/2 an hour. _Average cost_,11d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


SOUP A LA FLAMANDE (Flemish).

I.

129. INGREDIENTS.--1 turnip, 1 small carrot, 1/2 head of celery, 6 green
onions shred very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, 1/4 pint of
asparagus cut small, 1/4 pint of peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4
eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of
stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hour
with a teacupful of stock; then add the remainder of the stock, and
simmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix with
the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve. Take the
soup off the fire, put the eggs, &c. to it, and keep stirring it well.
Bring it to a boil, but do not leave off stirring, or the eggs will
curdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar.

_Time_.--24 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from May to August.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

    CHERVIL.--Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its
    leaves are tender, and are used in salads. In antiquity it made
    a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine, and gravy. It is
    a native of various parts of Europe; and the species cultivated
    in the gardens of Paris, has beautifully frizzled leaves.

II.

130. INGREDIENTS.--5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sized
potatoes, 3 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 quarts
of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with the
butter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then fill up
the stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are done,
which will be in about an hour. Rub all through a tammy, and add the
cream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream is put in.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. __Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to May.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This soup can be made with water instead of stock.


SOUP A LA JULIENNE.

[Illustration: STRIPS OF VEGETABLE.]

131. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of carrots, 1/2 pint of turnips, 1/4 pint of
onions, 2 or 3 leeks, 1/2 head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel and
chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of butter, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1-1/4 inch long, and be
particular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst the
others will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into
larger pieces; fry the carrots in the butter, and pour the stock boiling
to them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables, and herbs, and
stew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soup
over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, and
serve.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c. can be
added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them in
butter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in the
stock.

    SORREL.--This is one of the _spinaceous_ plants, which take
    their name from spinach, which is the chief among them. It is
    little used in English cookery, but a great deal in French, in
    which it is employed for soups, sauces, and salads. In English
    meadows it is usually left to grow wild; but in France, where it
    is cultivated, its flavour is greatly improved.

KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe).

132. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toasted
oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil
floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put
the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly a
teacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy mass, but
form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.


LEEK SOUP.

I.

133. INGREDIENTS.--A sheep's head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks cut
small, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken.

_Mode_.--Prepare the head, either by skinning or cleaning the skin very
nicely; split it in two; take out the brains, and put it into boiling
water; add the leeks and seasoning, and simmer very gently for 4 hours.
Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much oatmeal as will make the soup
tolerably thick; pour it into the soup; continue stirring till the whole
is blended and well done, and serve.

_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.


II.

COMMONLY CALLED COCK-A-LEEKIE.

134. INGREDIENTS.--A capon or large fowl (sometimes an old cock, from
which the recipe takes its name, is used), which should be trussed as
for boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of stock No. 105,
pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Well wash the leeks (and, if old, scald them in boiling water
for a few minutes), taking off the roots and part of the heads, and cut
them into lengths of about an inch. Put the fowl into the stock, with,
at first, one half of the leeks, and allow it to simmer gently. In half
an hour add the remaining leeks, and then it may simmer for 3 or 4 hours
longer. It should be carefully skimmed, and can be seasoned to taste. In
serving, take out the fowl, and carve it neatly, placing the pieces in a
tureen, and pouring over them the soup, which should be very thick of
leeks (a _purée_ of leeks the French would call it).

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart; or, with stock No.
106, 1s.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.--Without the fowl, the above, which would then be merely called
leek soup, is very good, and also economical. Cock-a-leekie was largely
consumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal Palace,
Sydenham, in 1859.

[Illustration: LEEKS.]

    THE LEEK.--As in the case of the cucumber, this vegetable was
    bewailed by the Israelites in their journey through the desert.
    It is one of the alliaceous tribe, which consists of the onion,
    garlic, chive, shallot, and leek. These, as articles of food,
    are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than
    any other _genus_ of edible plants. It is the national badge of
    the Welsh, and tradition ascribes to St. David its introduction
    to that part of Britain. The origin of the wearing of the leek
    on St. David's day, among that people, is thus given in
    "BEETON'S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION:"--"It probably
    originated from the custom of _Cymhortha_, or the friendly aid,
    practised among farmers. In some districts of South Wales, all
    the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when
    they attended to plough his land, and the like; and, at such
    time, it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks
    with him for making the broth or soup." (_See_ ST. DAVID.)
    Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of
    Cressy. The plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland, is sharper
    than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to
    that of the onion in broth. It is very wholesome, and, to
    prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled.

MACARONI SOUP.

135. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water, with a pinch
of salt, and simmer for 1/2 an hour. When it is tender, drain and cut it
into thin rings or lengths, and drop it into the boiling stock. Stew
gently for 15 minutes, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with it.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: MACARONI.]

    MACARONI.--This is the favourite food of Italy, where,
    especially among the Neapolitans, it may be regarded as the
    staff of life. "The crowd of London," says Mr. Forsyth, "is a
    double line in quick motion; it is the crowd of business. The
    crowd of Naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down,
    and in the middle of this tide, a hundred eddies of men. You are
    stopped by a carpenter's bench, you are lost among shoemakers'
    stalls, and you dash among the _pots of a macaroni stall_." This
    article of food is nothing more than a thick paste, made of the
    best wheaten flour, with a small quantity of water. When it has
    been well worked, it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel,
    pierced with holes of the size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom.
    Through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw
    bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the
    cylinder. Whilst issuing from the holes, it is partially baked
    by a fire placed below the cylinder, and is, at the same time,
    drawn away and hung over rods placed about the room, in order to
    dry. In a few days it is fit for use. As it is both wholesome
    and nutritious, it ought to be much more used by all classes in
    England than it is. It generally accompanies Parmesan cheese to
    the tables of the rich, but is also used for thickening soups
    and making puddings.

SOUP MAIGRE (i.e. without Meat).

136. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. butter, 6 onions sliced, 4 heads of celery, 2
lettuces, a small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of spinach, 3 pieces of
bread-crust, 2 blades of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2
eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Melt the butter in a stewpan, and put in the onions to stew
gently for 3 or 4 minutes; then add the celery, spinach, lettuces, and
parsley, cut small. Stir the ingredients well for 10 minutes. Now put in
the water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Boil gently for 1-1/2 hour, and,
at the moment of serving, beat in the yolks of the eggs and the vinegar,
but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: LETTUCE.]

    THE LETTUCE.--This is one of the acetarious vegetables, which
    comprise a large class, chiefly used as pickles, salads, and
    other condiments. The lettuce has in all antiquity been
    distinguished as a kitchen-garden plant. It was, without
    preparation, eaten by the Hebrews with the Paschal lamb; the
    Greeks delighted in it, and the Romans, in the time of Domitian,
    had it prepared with eggs, and served in the first course at
    their tables, merely to excite their appetites. Its botanical
    name is _Lactuca_, so called from the milky juice it exudes when
    its stalks are cut. It possesses a narcotic virtue, noticed by
    ancient physicians; and even in our day a lettuce supper is
    deemed conducive to repose. Its proper character, however, is
    that of a cooling summer vegetable, not very nutritive, but
    serving as a corrective, or diluent of animal food.

MILK SOUP (a Nice Dish for Children).

137. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of milk, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1
teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, or
more if liked, 4 thin slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the salt, cinnamon, and sugar; lay the bread
in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot over
a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add them to the
milk, and stir it over the fire till it thickens. Do not let it curdle.
Pour it upon the bread, and serve.

_Time_.--3/4 of an hour. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 10 children.


ONION SOUP.

138. INGREDIENTS.--6 large onions, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 quart of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Chop the onions, put them in the butter, stir them
occasionally, but do not let them brown. When tender, put the stock to
them, and season; strain the soup, and add the boiling cream.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.


CHEAP ONION SOUP.

139. INGREDIENTS.--8 middling-sized onions, 3 oz. of butter, a
tablespoonful of rice-flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of
powdered sugar, thickening of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the onions small, put them in the stewpan with the butter,
and fry them well; mix the rice-flour smoothly with the water, add the
onions, seasoning, and sugar, and simmer till tender. Thicken with
butter and flour, and serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_,4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: ONION.]

    THE ONION.--Like the cabbage, this plant was erected into an
    object of worship by the idolatrous Egyptians 2,000 years before
    the Christian era, and it still forms a favourite food in the
    country of these people, as well as in other parts of Africa.
    When it was first introduced to England, has not been
    ascertained; but it has long been in use, and esteemed as a
    favourite seasoning plant to various dishes. In warmer climates
    it is much milder in its flavour; and such as are grown in Spain
    and Portugal, are, comparatively speaking, very large, and are
    often eaten both in a boiled and roasted state. The Strasburg is
    the most esteemed; and, although all the species have highly
    nutritive properties, they impart such a disagreeable odour to
    the breath, that they are often rejected even where they are
    liked. Chewing a little raw parsley is said to remove this
    odour.

PAN KAIL.

140. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of cabbage, or Savoy greens; 1/4 lb. of butter
or dripping, salt and pepper to taste, oatmeal for thickening, 2 quarts
of water.

_Mode_.--Chop the cabbage very fine, thicken the water with oatmeal, put
in the cabbage and butter, or dripping; season and simmer for 1-1/2
hour. It can be made sooner by blanching and mashing the greens, adding
any good liquor that a joint has been boiled in, and then further
thicken with bread or pounded biscuit.

_Time_--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

    THE SAVOY.--This is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage,
    sweet and tender, especially the middle leaves, and in season
    from November to spring. The yellow species bears hard weather
    without injury, whilst the _dwarf_ kind are improved and
    rendered more tender by frost.

PARSNIP SOUP.

141. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of sliced parsnips, 2 oz. of butter, salt and
cayenne to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.

_Mode_.--Put the parsnips into the stewpan with the butter, which has
been previously melted, and simmer them till quite tender. Then add
nearly a pint of stock, and boil together for half an hour. Pass all
through a fine strainer, and put to it the remainder of the stock.
Season, boil, and serve immediately.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

    THE PARSNIP.--This is a biennial plant, with a root like a
    carrot, which, in nutritive and saccharine matter, it nearly
    equals. It is a native of Britain, and, in its wild state, may
    be found, in many parts, growing by the road-sides. It is also
    to be found, generally distributed over Europe; and, in Catholic
    countries, is mostly used with salt fish, in Lent. In Scotland
    it forms an excellent dish, when beat up with butter and
    potatoes; it is, also, excellent when fried. In Ireland it is
    found to yield, in conjunction with the hop, a pleasant
    beverage; and it contains as much spirit as the carrot, and
    makes an excellent wine. Its proportion of nutritive matter is
    99 parts in 1,000; 9 being mucilage and 90 sugar.

PEA SOUP (GREEN).

142. INGREDIENTS.--3 pints of green peas, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 or three
thin slices of ham, 6 onions sliced, 4 shredded lettuces, the crumb of 2
French rolls, 2 handfuls of spinach, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of common
stock.

_Mode_.--Put the butter, ham, 1 quart of the peas, onions, and lettuces,
to a pint of stock, and simmer for an hour; then add the remainder of
the stock, with the crumb of the French rolls, and boil for another
hour. Now boil the spinach, and squeeze it very dry. Rub the soup
through a sieve, and the spinach with it, to colour it. Have ready a
pint of _young_ peas boiled; add them to the soup, put in the sugar,
give one boil, and serve. If necessary, add salt.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.--It will be well to add, if the peas are not quite young, a
little sugar. Where economy is essential, water may be used instead of
stock for this soup, boiling in it likewise the pea-shells; but use a
double quantity of vegetables.


WINTER PEA SOUP (YELLOW).

143. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of split peas, 2 lbs. of shin of beef,
trimmings of meat or poultry, a slice of bacon, 2 large carrots, 2
turnips, 5 large onions, 1 head of celery, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts
of soft water, any bones left from roast meat, 2 quarts of common stock,
or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled.

_Mode_.--Put the peas to soak over-night in soft water, and float off
such as rise to the top. Boil them in the water till tender enough to
pulp; then add the ingredients mentioned above, and simmer for 2 hours,
stirring it occasionally. Pass the whole through a sieve, skim well,
season, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart. _Seasonable_ all the
year round, but more suitable for cold weather. _Sufficient_ for 12
persons.

[Illustration: PEA.]

    THE PEA.--It is supposed that the common gray pea, found wild in
    Greece, and other parts of the Levant, is the original of the
    common garden pea, and of all the domestic varieties belonging
    to it. The gray, or field pea, called _bisallie_ by the French,
    is less subject to run into varieties than the garden kinds, and
    is considered by some, perhaps on that account, to be the wild
    plant, retaining still a large proportion of its original habit.
    From the tendency of all other varieties "to run away" and
    become different to what they originally were, it is very
    difficult to determine the races to which they belong. The pea
    was well known to the Romans, and, probably, was introduced to
    Britain at an early period; for we find peas mentioned by
    Lydgate, a poet of the 15th century, as being hawked in London.
    They seem, however, for a considerable time, to have fallen out
    of use; for, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Fuller tells us
    they were brought from Holland, and were accounted "fit dainties
    for ladies, they came so far and cost so dear." There are some
    varieties of peas which have no lining in their pods, which are
    eaten cooked in the same way as kidney-beans. They are called
    _sugar_ peas, and the best variety is the large crooked sugar,
    which is also very good, used in the common way, as a culinary
    vegetable. There is also a white sort, which readily splits when
    subjected to the action of millstones set wide apart, so as not
    to grind them. These are used largely for soups, and especially
    for sea-stores. From the quantity of farinaceous and saccharine
    matter contained in the pea, it is highly nutritious as an
    article of food.

PEA SOUP (inexpensive).

144. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of onions, 1/4 lb. of carrots, 2 oz. of
celery, 3/4 lb. of split peas, a little mint, shred fine; 1
tablespoonful of coarse brown sugar, salt and pepper to taste, 4 quarts
of water, or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled.

_Mode_.--Fry the vegetables for 10 minutes in a little butter or
dripping, previously cutting them up in small pieces; pour the water on
them, and when boiling add the peas. Let them simmer for nearly 3 hours,
or until the peas are thoroughly done. Add the sugar, seasoning, and
mint; boil for 1/4 of an hour, and serve.

_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.


POTATO SOUP.

I.

145. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of mealy potatoes, boiled or steamed very dry,
pepper and salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--When the potatoes are boiled, mash them smoothly, that no lumps
remain, and gradually put them to the boiling stock; pass it through a
sieve, season, and simmer for 5 minutes. Skim well, and serve with fried
bread.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


II.

146. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of shin of beef, 1 lb. of potatoes, 1 onion,
1/2 a pint of peas, 2 oz. of rice, 2 heads of celery, pepper and salt to
taste, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the beef into thin slices, chop the potatoes and onion, and
put them in a stewpan with the water, peas, and rice. Stew gently till
the gravy is drawn from the meat; strain it off, take out the beef, and
pulp the other ingredients through a coarse sieve. Put the pulp back in
the soup, cut up the celery in it, and simmer till this is tender.
Season, and serve with fried bread cut into it.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.


III.

(_Very Economical_.)

147. INGREDIENTS.--4 middle-sized potatoes well pared, a thick slice of
bread, 6 leeks peeled and cut into thin slices as far as the white
extends upwards from the roots, a teacupful of rice, a teaspoonful of
salt, and half that of pepper, and 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--The water must be completely boiling before anything is put
into it; then add the whole of the ingredients at once, with the
exception of the rice, the salt, and the pepper. Cover, and let these
come to a brisk boil; put in the others, and let the whole boil slowly
for an hour, or till all the ingredients are thoroughly done, and their
several juices extracted and mixed.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

[Illustration: POTATOES.]

    THE POTATO.--Humboldt doubted whether this root was a native of
    South America; but it has been found growing wild both in Chili
    and Buenos Ayres. It was first brought to Spain from the
    neighbourhood of Quito, in the early part of the sixteenth
    century, first to England from Virginia, in 1586, and first
    planted by Sir Walter Raleigh, on his estate of Youghal, near
    Cork, in Ireland. Thence it was brought and planted in
    Lancashire, in England, and was, at first, recommended to be
    eaten as a delicate dish, and not as common food. This was in
    1587. _Nutritious Properties_.--Of a thousand parts of the
    potato, Sir H. Davy found about a fourth nutritive; say, 200
    mucilage or starch, 20 sugar, and 30 gluten.

PRINCE OF WALES'S SOUP.

148. INGREDIENTS.--12 turnips, 1 lump of sugar, 2 spoonfuls of strong
veal stock, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of very bright
stock, No. 105.

_Mode_.--Peel the turnips, and with a cutter cut them in balls as round
as possible, but very small. Put them in the stock, which must be very
bright, and simmer till tender. Add the veal stock and seasoning. Have
little pieces of bread cut round, about the size of a shilling; moisten
them with stock; put them into a tureen and pour the soup over without
shaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil the
appearance of the soup, and make it look thick.

_Time_.--2 hours.

_Seasonable_ in the winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

    THE PRINCE Of WALES.--This soup was invented by a philanthropic
    friend of the Editress, to be distributed among the poor of a
    considerable village, when the Prince of Wales attained his
    majority, on the 9th November, 1859. Accompanying this fact, the
    following notice, which appears in "BEETON'S DICTIONARY OF
    UNIVERSAL INFORMATION" may appropriately be introduced,
    premising that British princes attain their majority in their
    18th year, whilst mortals of ordinary rank do not arrive at that
    period till their 21st.--"ALBERT EDWARD, Prince of Wales, and
    heir to the British throne, merits a place in this work on
    account of the high responsibilities which he is, in all
    probability, destined to fulfil as sovereign of the British
    empire. On the 10th of November, 1858, he was gazetted as having
    been invested with the rank of a colonel in the army. Speaking
    of this circumstance, the _Times_ said,--'The significance of
    this event is, that it marks the period when the heir to the
    British throne is about to take rank among men, and to enter
    formally upon a career, which every loyal subject of the queen
    will pray may be a long and a happy one, for his own sake and
    for the sake of the vast empire which, in the course of nature,
    he will one day be called to govern. The best wish that we can
    offer for the young prince is, that in his own path he may ever
    keep before him the bright example of his royal mother, and show
    himself worthy of her name.' There are few in these realms who
    will not give a fervent response to these sentiments. B.
    November 9th, 1841."

POTAGE PRINTANIER, OR SPRING SOUP.

149. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a pint of green peas, if in season, a little
chervil, 2 shredded lettuces, 2 onions, a very small bunch of parsley, 2
oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 pint of water, seasoning to taste,
2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Put in a very clean stewpan the chervil, lettuces, onions,
parsley, and butter, to 1 pint of water, and let them simmer till
tender. Season with salt and pepper; when done, strain off the
vegetables, and put two-thirds of the liquor they were boiled in to the
stock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third, give it a
toss over the fire, and at the moment of serving, add this, with the
vegetables which you strained off, to the soup.

_Time_.--3/4 of an hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from May to October.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


RICE SOUP.

I.

150. INGREDIENTS.--4 oz. of Patna rice, salt, cayenne, and mace, 2
quarts of white stock.

_Mode_.--Throw the rice into boiling water, and let it remain 5 minutes;
then pour it into a sieve, and allow it to drain well. Now add it to the
stock boiling, and allow it to stew till it is quite tender; season to
taste. Serve quickly.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: EARS OF RICE.]

    RICE.--This is a plant of Indian origin, and has formed the
    principal food of the Indian and Chinese people from the most
    remote antiquity. Both Pliny and Dioscorides class it with the
    cereals, though Galen places it among the vegetables. Be this as
    it may, however, it was imported to Greece, from India, about
    286 years before Christ, and by the ancients it was esteemed
    both nutritious and fattening. There are three kinds of
    rice,--the Hill rice, the Patna, and the Carolina, of the United
    States. Of these, only the two latter are imported to this
    country, and the Carolina is considered the best, as it is the
    dearest. The nourishing properties of rice are greatly inferior
    to those of wheat; but it is both a light and a wholesome food.
    In combination with other foods, its nutritive qualities are
    greatly increased; but from its having little stimulating power,
    it is apt, when taken in large quantities alone, to lie long on
    the stomach.

II.

151. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 a pint of
cream, rather more than 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Boil the rice in the stock, and rub half of it through a tammy;
put the stock in the stewpan, add all the rice, and simmer gently for 5
minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs, mix them with the cream (previously
boiled), and strain through a hair sieve; take the soup off the fire,
add the eggs and cream, stirring frequently. Heat it gradually, stirring
all the time; but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


SAGO SOUP.

152. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of sago, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Wash the sago in boiling water, and add it, by degrees, to the
boiling stock, and simmer till the sago is entirely dissolved, and forms
a sort of jelly.

_Time_.--Nearly an hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Note_.--The yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with a little cream, previously
boiled, and added at the moment of serving, much improves this soup.

[Illustration: SAGO PALM.]

    SAGO.--The farinaceous food of this name constitutes the pith of
    the SAGO tree (the _Sagus farinifera_ of Linnaeus), which grows
    spontaneously in the East Indies and in the archipelago of the
    Indian Ocean. There it forms the principal farinaceous diet of
    the inhabitants. In order to procure it, the tree is felled and
    sawn in pieces. The pith is then taken out, and put in
    receptacles of cold water, where it is stirred until the flour
    separates from the filaments, and sinks to the bottom, where it
    is suffered to remain until the water is poured off, when it is
    taken out and spread on wicker frames to dry. To give it the
    round granular form in which we find it come to this country, it
    is passed through a colander, then rubbed into little balls, and
    dried. The tree is not fit for felling until it has attained a
    growth of seven years, when a single trunk will yield 600 lbs.
    weight; and, as an acre of ground will grow 430 of these trees,
    a large return of flour is the result. The best quality has a
    slightly reddish hue, and easily dissolves to a jelly, in hot
    water. As a restorative diet, it is much used.

SEMOLINA SOUP.

153. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of semolina, 2 quarts of boiling stock, No.
105, or 106.

_Mode_.--Drop the semolina into the boiling stock, and keep stirring, to
prevent its burning. Simmer gently for half an hour, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart, or 4d.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

    SEMOLINA.--This is the heart of the _grano duro_ wheat of Italy,
    which is imported for the purpose of making the best vermicelli.
    It has a coarse appearance, and may be purchased at the Italian
    warehouses. It is also called _soojee;_ and _semoletta_ is
    another name for a finer sort.

SOUP A LA SOLFERINO (Sardinian Recipe).

154. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of fresh butter,
salt and pepper to taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts of
bouillon, No. 105.

_Mode_.--Beat the eggs, put them into a stewpan, and add the cream,
butter, and seasoning; stir in as much flour as will bring it to the
consistency of dough; make it into balls, either round or egg-shaped,
and fry them in butter; put them in the tureen, and pour the boiling
bouillon over them.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This recipe was communicated to the Editress by an English
gentleman, who was present at the battle of Solferino, on June 24, 1859,
and who was requested by some of Victor Emmanuel's troops, on the day
before the battle, to partake of a portion of their _potage_. He
willingly enough consented, and found that these clever campaigners had
made a most palatable dish from very easily-procured materials. In
sending the recipe for insertion in this work, he has, however,
Anglicised, and somewhat, he thinks, improved it.


SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe).

155. INGREDIENTS.--As much spinach as, when boiled, will half fill a
vegetable-dish, 2 quarts of very clear medium stock, No. 105.

_Mode_.--Make the cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg, and slip
them into the soup-tureen. This is a very elegant soup, the green of the
spinach forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_,1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from October to June.

[Illustration: SPINACH.]

    SPINACH.--This plant was unknown by the ancients, although it
    was cultivated in the monastic gardens of the continent in the
    middle of the 14th century. Some say, that it was originally
    brought from Spain; but there is a wild species growing in
    England, and cultivated in Lincolnshire, in preference to the
    other. There are three varieties in use; the round-leaved, the
    triangular-leaved, and Flanders spinach, known by its large
    leaves. They all form a useful ingredient in soup; but the
    leaves are sometimes boiled alone, mashed, and eaten as greens.

TAPIOCA SOUP.

156. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of tapioca, 2 quarts of stock No. 105 or 106.

_Mode_.--Put the tapioca into cold stock, and bring it gradually to a
boil. Simmer gently till tender, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost. 1s. or 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

    TAPIOCA.--This excellent farinaceous food is the produce of the
    pith of the cassava-tree, and is made in the East Indies, and
    also in Brazil. It is, by washing, procured as a starch from the
    tree, then dried, either in the sun or on plates of hot iron,
    and afterwards broken into grains, in which form it is imported
    into this country. Its nutritive properties are large, and as a
    food for persons of delicate digestion, or for children, it is
    in great estimation. "No amylaceous substance," says Dr.
    Christison, "is so much relished by infants about the time of
    weaning; and in them it is less apt to become sour during
    digestion than any other farinaceous food, even arrowroot not
    excepted."

TURNIP SOUP.

157. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of butter, 9 good-sized turnips, 4 onions, 2
quarts of stock No. 106, seasoning to taste.

_Mode_.--Melt the butter in the stewpan, but do not let it boil; wash,
drain, and slice the turnips and onions very thin; put them in the
butter, with a teacupful of stock, and stew very gently for an hour.
Then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer another hour. Rub it
through a tammy, put it back into the stewpan, but do not let it boil.
Serve very hot.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--By adding a little cream, this soup will be much improved.

[Illustration: TURNIP.]

    THE TURNIP.--Although turnips grow wild in England, they are not
    the original of the cultivated vegetable made use of in this
    country. In ancient times they were grown for cattle by the
    Romans, and in Germany and the Low Countries they have from time
    immemorial been raised for the same purpose. In their cultivated
    state, they are generally supposed to have been introduced to
    England from Hanover, in the time of George I.; but this has
    been doubted, as George II. caused a description of the Norfolk
    system to be sent to his Hanoverian subjects, for their
    enlightenment in the art of turnip culture. As a culinary
    vegetable, it is excellent, whether eaten alone, mashed, or
    mixed with soups und stews. Its nutritious matter, however, is
    small, being only 42 parts in 1,000.

VEGETABLE-MARROW SOUP.

158. INGREDIENTS.--4 young vegetable marrows, or more, if very small,
1/2 pint of cream, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of white
stock, No. 107.

_Mode_.--Pare and slice the marrows, and put them in the stock boiling.
When done almost to a mash, press them through a sieve, and at the
moment of serving, add the boiling cream and seasoning.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in summer.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW.]

    THE VEGETABLE MARROW.--This is a variety of the gourd family,
    brought from Persia by an East-India ship, and only recently
    introduced to Britain. It is already cultivated to a
    considerable extent, and, by many, is highly esteemed when fried
    with butter. It is, however, dressed in different ways, either
    by stewing or boiling, and, besides, made into pies.

VEGETABLE SOUP.

I.

159. INGREDIENTS.--7 oz. of carrot, 10 oz. of parsnip, 10 oz. of potato,
cut into thin slices; 1-1/4 oz. of butter, 5 teaspoonfuls of flour, a
teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2
eggs, rather more than 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Boil the vegetables in the water 2-1/2 hours; stir them often,
and if the water boils away too quickly, add more, as there should be 2
quarts of soup when done. Mix up in a basin the butter and flour,
mustard, salt, and pepper, with a teacupful of cold water; stir in the
soup, and boil 10 minutes. Have ready the yolks of the eggs in the
tureen; pour on, stir well, and serve.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


II.

160. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of onions, carrots, turnips; 1/4 lb.
of butter, a crust of toasted bread, 1 head of celery, a faggot of
herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, 2
quarts of common stock or boiling water. Allow 3/4 lb. of vegetables to
2 quarts of stock, No. 105.

_Mode_.--Cut up the onions, carrots, and turnips; wash and drain them
well, and put them in the stewpan with the butter and powdered sugar.
Toss the whole over a sharp fire for 10 minutes, but do not let them
brown, or you will spoil the flavour of the soup. When done, pour the
stock or boiling water on them; add the bread, celery, herbs, and
seasoning; stew for 3 hours; skim well and strain it off. When ready to
serve, add a little sliced carrot, celery, and turnip, and flavour with
a spoonful of Harvey's sauce, or a little ketchup.

_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_,6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


III.

(_Good and Cheap, made without Meat_.)

161. INGREDIENTS.--6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or 2 if very large; 2 carrots,
2 onions; if obtainable, 2 mushrooms; 1 head of celery, 1 large slice of
bread, 1 small saltspoonful of salt, 1/4 saltspoonful of ground black
pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 6 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Peel the vegetables, and cut them up into small pieces; toast
the bread rather brown, and put all into a stewpan with the water and
seasoning. Simmer gently for 3 hours, or until all is reduced to a pulp,
and pass it through a sieve in the same way as pea-soup, which it should
resemble in consistence; but it should be a dark brown colour. Warm it
up again when required; put in the Harvey's sauce, and, if necessary,
add to the flavouring.

_Time_.--3 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_,1d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 16 persons.

_Note_.--This recipe was forwarded to the Editress by a lady in the
county of Durham, by whom it was strongly recommended.


VERMICELLI SOUP.

I.

162. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of bacon, stuck with cloves; 1/2 oz. of
butter, worked up in flour; 1 small fowl, trussed for boiling; 2 oz. of
vermicelli, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.

_Mode_.--Put the stock, bacon, butter, and fowl into the stewpan, and
stew for 3/4 of an hour. Take the vermicelli, add it to a little of the
stock, and set it on the fire, till it is quite tender. When the soup is
ready, take out the fowl and bacon, and put the bacon on a dish. Skim
the soup as clean as possible; pour it, with the vermicelli, over the
fowl. Cut some bread thin, put in the soup, and serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl and bacon, 10d.
per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

[Illustration: VERMICELLI.]

    VERMICELLI.--This is a preparation of Italian origin, and is
    made in the same way as macaroni, only the yolks of eggs, sugar,
    saffron, and cheese, are added to the paste.

II.

163. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of clear gravy stock,
No. 169.

_Mode_.--Put the vermicelli in the soup, boiling; simmer very gently for
1/2 an hour, and stir frequently.

_Time_--1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


WHITE SOUP.

164. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of cold veal or
poultry, a thick slice of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, 1
blade of mace, pounded, 3/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled
eggs, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.

_Mode_.--Reduce the almonds in a mortar to a paste, with a spoonful of
water, and add to them the meat, which should be previously pounded with
the bread. Beat all together, and add the lemon-peel, very finely
chopped, and the mace. Pour the boiling stock on the whole, and simmer
for an hour. Rub the eggs in the cream, put in the soup, bring it to a
boil, and serve immediately.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--A more economical white soup may be made by using common veal
stock, and thickening with rice, flour, and milk. Vermicelli should be
served with it.

_Average cost_, 5d. per quart.


USEFUL SOUP FOR BENEVOLENT PURPOSES.

165. INGREDIENTS.--An ox-cheek, any pieces of trimmings of beef, which
may be bought very cheaply (say 4 lbs.), a few bones, any pot-liquor the
larder may furnish, 1/4 peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large bunch of herbs,
1/2 lb. of celery (the outside pieces, or green tops, do very well); 1/2
lb. of carrots, 1/2 lb. of turnips, 1/2 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 a
pint of beer, 4 lbs. of common rice, or pearl barley; 1/2 lb. of salt, 1
oz. of black pepper, a few raspings, 10 gallons of water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the meat in small pieces, break the bones, put them in a
copper, with the 10 gallons of water, and stew for 1/2 an hour. Cut up
the vegetables, put them in with the sugar and beer, and boil for 4
hours. Two hours before the soup is wanted, add the rice and raspings,
and keep stirring till it is well mixed in the soup, which simmer
gently. If the liquor reduces too much, fill up with water.

_Time_.--6-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart.

_Note_.--The above recipe was used in the winter of 1858 by the
Editress, who made, each week, in her copper, 8 or 9 gallons of this
soup, for distribution amongst about a dozen families of the village
near which she lives. The cost, as will be seen, was not great; but she
has reason to believe that the soup was very much liked, and gave to the
members of those families, a dish of warm, comforting food, in place of
the cold meat and piece of bread which form, with too many cottagers,
their usual meal, when, with a little more knowledge of the "cooking."
art, they might have, for less expense, a warm dish, every day.


MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.


BRILLA SOUP.

166. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, a large
sprig of thyme, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and pepper to taste, 4
quarts water.

_Mode_.--Take the beef, cut off all the meat from the bone, in nice
square pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, let it
cool, and take off the fat; then put the pieces of meat in the cold
liquor; cut small the carrots, turnips, and celery; chop the onions, add
them with the thyme and seasoning, and simmer till the meat is tender.
If not brown enough, colour it with browning.

_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

    THYME.--This sweet herb was known to the Romans, who made use of
    it in culinary preparations, as well as in aromatic liqueurs.
    There are two species of it growing wild in Britain, but the
    garden thyme is a native of the south of Europe, and is more
    delicate in its perfume than the others. Its young leaves give
    an agreeable flavour to soups and sauces; they are also used in
    stuffings.

CALF'S-HEAD SOUP.

167. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a calf's head, 1 onion stuck with cloves, a very
small bunch of sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and white pepper to
taste, 6 oz. of rice-flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 3 quarts of
white stock, No. 107, or pot-liquor, or water.

_Mode_.--Rub the head with salt, soak it for 6 hours, and clean it
thoroughly; put it in the stewpan, and cover it with the stock, or
pot-liquor, or water, adding the onion and sweet herbs. When well
skimmed and boiled for 1-1/2 hour, take out the head, and skim and
strain the soup. Mix the rice-flour with the ketchup, thicken the soup
with it, and simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up the head into pieces about
two inches long, and simmer them in the soup till the meat and fat are
quite tender. Season with white pepper and mace finely pounded, and
serve very hot. When the calf's head is taken out of the soup, cover it
up, or it will discolour.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_,1s. 9d. per quart, with stock No.
107.

_Seasonable_ from May to October.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.--Force-meat balls can be added, and the soup may be flavoured
with a little lemon-juice, or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bones
from the head may be stewed down again, with a few fresh vegetables, and
it will make a very good common stock.


GIBLET SOUP.

168. INGREDIENTS.--3 sets of goose or duck giblets, 2 lbs. of shin of
beef, a few bones, 1 ox-tail, 2 mutton-shanks, 2 large onions, 2
carrots, 1 large faggot of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of
cream, 1 oz. of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, 3 quarts
of water.

_Mode_.--Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards in 8 pieces, and put them
in a stewpan with the beef, bones, ox-tail, mutton-shanks, onions,
herbs, pepper, and salt; add the 3 quarts of water, and simmer till the
giblets are tender, taking care to skim well. When the giblets are done,
take them out, put them in your tureen, strain the soup through a sieve,
add the cream and butter, mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, boil
it up a few minutes, and pour it over the giblets. It can be flavoured
with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup, instead of cream. Add salt
to taste.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_,9d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.


GRAVY SOUP.

169. INGREDIENTS.--6 lbs. of shin of beef, a knuckle of veal weighing 5
lbs., a few pieces or trimmings, 2 slices of nicely-flavoured lean, ham;
1/4 lb. of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, nearly a head of
celery, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, a hunch of savoury herb with endive,
seasoning of salt and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 5 quarts of
boiling soft water. It can be flavoured with ketchup, Leamington sauce
(_see_ SAUCES), Harvey's sauce, and a little soy.

_Mode_.--Slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter, but do not let
them burn. When this is done, pour to it the water, and as the scum
rises, take it off; when no more appears, add all the other ingredients,
and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stirring
it any more from the bottom; take it off, and let it settle; skim off
all the fat you can, and pass it through a tammy. When perfectly cold,
you can remove all the fat, and leave the sediment untouched, which
serves very nicely for thick gravies, hashes, &c.

_Time_.--7 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 14 persons.

    ENDIVE.--This plant belongs to the acetarious tribe of
    vegetables, and is supposed to have originally come from China
    and Japan. It was known to the ancients; but was not introduced
    to England till about the middle of the 16th century. It is
    consumed in large quantities by the French, and in London,--in
    the neighbourhood of which it is grown in abundance;--it is
    greatly used as a winter salad, as well as in soups and stews.

HARE SOUP.

I.

170. INGREDIENTS.--A hare fresh-killed, 1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, a
slice of ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 oz. of
whole black pepper, a little browned flour, 1/4 pint of port wine, the
crumb of two French rolls, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Skin and paunch the hare, saving the liver and as much blood as
possible. Cut it in pieces, and put it in a stewpan with all the
ingredients, and simmer gently for 8 hours. This soup should be made the
day before it is wanted. Strain through a sieve, put the best parts of
the hare in the soup, and serve.

OR,


II.

Proceed as above; but, instead of putting the joints of the hare in the
soup, pick the meat from the bones, pound it in a mortar, and add it,
with the crumb of two French rolls, to the soup. Rub all through a
sieve; heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Send it to table
immediately.

_Time_.-8 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

[Illustration: HARE.]

    THE COMMON HARE.--This little animal is found throughout Europe,
    and, indeed, in most of the northern parts of the world; and as
    it is destitute of natural weapons of defence, Providence has
    endowed it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear.
    As if to awaken the vigilance of this passion, too, He has
    furnished it with long and tubular ears, in order that it may
    catch the remotest sounds; and with full, prominent eyes, which
    enable it to see, at one and the same time, both before and
    behind it. The hare feeds in the evenings, and sleeps, in its
    form, during the day; and, as it generally lies on the ground,
    its feet, both below and above, are protected with a thick
    covering of hair. Its flesh, though esteemed by the Romans, was
    forbidden by the Druids and by the earlier Britons. It is now,
    though very dark and dry, and devoid of fat, much esteemed by
    Europeans, on account of the peculiarity of its flavour. In
    purchasing this animal, it ought to be remembered that both
    hares and rabbits, when old, have their claws rugged and blunt,
    their haunches thick, and their ears dry and tough. The ears of
    a young hare easily tear, and it has a narrow cleft in the lip;
    whilst its claws are both smooth and sharp.

HESSIAN SOUP.

171. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox's head, 1 pint of split peas, 3 carrots, 6
turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savoury
herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice, 4
cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Clean the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for 5
hours in warm water. Simmer it in the water till tender, put it into a
pan and let it cool; skim off all the fat; take out the head, and add
the vegetables cut up small, and the peas which have been previously
soaked; simmer them without the meat, till they are done enough to pulp
through a sieve. Add the seasoning, with pieces of the meat cut up; give
one boil, and serve.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 16 persons.

_Note_.--An excellent hash or _ragoût_ can be made by cutting up the
nicest parts of the head, thickening and seasoning more highly a little
of the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoonfuls of
ketchup.


MOCK TURTLE.

I.

172. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a calf's head, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lean
ham, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme,
sweet marjoram, basil, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms (when
obtainable), 2 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 bottle of
Madeira or sherry, force-meat balls, cayenne, salt and mace to taste,
the juice of 1 lemon and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessert-spoonful of pounded
sugar, 3 quarts of best stock, No. 104.

_Mode_.--Scald the head with the skin on, remove the brain, tie the head
up in a cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then take the meat from the
bones, cut it into small square pieces, and throw them into cold water.
Now take the meat, put it into a stewpan, and cover with stock; let it
boil gently for an hour, or rather more, if not quite tender, and set it
on one side. Melt the butter in another stewpan, and add the ham, cut
small, with the herbs, parsley, onions, shallots, mushrooms, and nearly
a pint of stock; let these simmer slowly for 2 hours, and then dredge in
as much flour as will dry up the butter. Fill up with the remainder of
the stock, add the wine, let it stew gently for 10 minutes, rub it
through a tammy, and put it to the calf's head; season with cayenne,
and, if required, a little salt; add the juice of the orange and lemon;
and when liked, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded mace, and the sugar. Put in
the force-meat balls, simmer 5 minutes, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. per quart, or 2s. 6d.
without wine or force-meat balls.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.--The bones of the head should be well stewed in the liquor it
was first boiled in, and will make good white stock, flavoured with
vegetables, etc.


II.

(_More Economical_.)

173. INGREDIENTS.--A knuckle of veal weighing 5 or 6 lbs., 2 cow-heels,
2 large onions stuck with cloves, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 3 blades of
mace, salt to taste, 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry, 24 force-meat
balls, a little lemon-juice, 4 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients, except the force-meat balls and
lemon-juice, in an earthen jar, and stew for 6 hours. Do not open it
till cold. When wanted for use, skim off all the fat, and strain
carefully; place it on the fire, cut up the meat into inch-and-a-half
squares, put it, with the force-meat balls and lemon-juice, into the
soup, and serve. It can be flavoured with a tablespoonful of anchovy, or
Harvey's sauce.

_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

    THE CALF--The flesh of this animal is called veal, and when
    young, that is, under two months old, yields a large quantity of
    soluble extract, and is, therefore, much employed for soups and
    broths. The Essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for
    fattening calves better than any others in England, where they
    are plentifully supplied with milk, a thing impossible to be
    done in the immediate neighbourhood of London.

    MARJORAM.--There are several species of this plant; but that
    which is preferred for cookery is a native of Portugal, and is
    called sweet or knotted marjoram. When its leaves are dried,
    they have an agreeable aromatic flavour; and hence are used for
    soups, stuffings, &c.

    BASIL.--This is a native of the East Indies, and is highly
    aromatic, having a perfume greatly resembling that of cloves. It
    is not much employed in English cookery, but is a favourite with
    French cooks, by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads.

MULLAGATAWNY SOUP.

174. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, 6 onions, 1 clove
of garlic, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, a little lemon-pickle, or
mango-juice, to taste; 1 fowl or rabbit, 4 slices of lean bacon; 2
quarts of medium stock, or, if wanted very good, best stock.

_Mode_.-=Slice and fry the onions of a nice colour; line the stewpan
with the bacon; cut up the rabbit or fowl into small joints, and
slightly brown them; put in the fried onions, the garlic, and stock, and
simmer gently till the meat is tender; skim very carefully, and when the
meat is done, rub the curry powder to a smooth batter; add it to the
soup with the almonds, which must be first pounded with a little of the
stock. Put in seasoning and lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste, and
serve boiled rice with it.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart, with stock No. 105.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This soup can also be made with breast of veal, or calf's head.
Vegetable Mullagatawny is made with veal stock, by boiling and pulping
chopped vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes, and seasoning
with curry powder and cayenne. Nice pieces of meat, good curry powder,
and strong stock, are necessary to make this soup good.

[Illustration: CORIANDER.]

    CORIANDER.--This plant, which largely enters into the
    composition of curry powder with turmeric, originally comes from
    the East; but it has long been cultivated in England, especially
    in Essex, where it is reared for the use of confectioners and
    druggists. In private gardens, it is cultivated for the sake of
    its tender leaves, which are highly aromatic, and are employed
    in soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large quantities for
    the purposes of distillation.

A GOOD MUTTON SOUP.

175. INGREDIENTS.--A neck of mutton about 5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, 3
turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; salt
and pepper to taste; a little sherry, if liked; 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let
them remain there the whole day, stirring occasionally. The next day put
the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. When it
commences to boil, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side to
simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat,
dish it up with carrots and turnips, and send it to table; strain the
soup, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season and thicken it with a
tablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot; flavour with a little
sherry, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.

_Time_.--15 hours. _Average cost_, including the meat, 1s. 3d. per
quart.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

    THE SHEEP.--This animal formed the principal riches of the
    patriarchs, in the days of old, and, no doubt, multiplied, until
    its species were spread over the greater part of Western Asia;
    but at what period it was introduced to Britain is not known. It
    is now found in almost every part of the globe, although, as a
    domestic animal, it depends almost entirely upon man for its
    support. Its value, however, amply repays him for whatever care
    and kindness he may bestow upon it; for, like the ox, there is
    scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful
    purpose. The fleece, which serves it for a covering, is
    appropriated by man, to serve the same end to himself, whilst
    its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life.
    Its entrails are used as strings for musical instruments, and
    its bones are calcined, and employed as tests in the trade of
    the refiner. Its milk, being thicker than that of the cow,
    yields a greater quantity of butter and cheese, and its flesh is
    among the most wholesome and nutritive that can be eaten.
    Thomson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep,
    when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool.

      "Behold, where bound, and of its robe bereft
      By needy man, that all-depending lord,
      How meek, how patient, the mild creature lies!
      What softness in his melancholy face,
      What dumb complaining innocence appears!"

OX-CHEEK SOUP.

176. INGREDIENTS.--An ox-cheek, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean
ham or bacon, 1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 heads of celery, 3
blades of mace, 4 cloves, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, a
teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, 1 head of celery, browning,
the crust of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Lay the ham in the bottom of the stewpan, with the butter;
break the bones of the cheek, wash it clean, and put it on the ham. Cut
the vegetables small, add them to the other ingredients, and set the
whole over a slow fire for 1/4 of an hour. Now put in the water, and
simmer gently till it is reduced to 4 quarts; take out the fleshy part
of the cheek, and strain the soup into a clean stewpan; thicken with
flour, put in a head of sliced celery, and simmer till the celery is
tender. If not a good colour, use a little browning. Cut the meat into
small square pieces, pour the soup over, and serve with the crust of a
French roll in the tureen. A glass of sherry much improves this soup.

_Time_.--3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.

    THE OX.--Of the quadrupedal animals, the flesh of those that
    feed upon herbs is the most wholesome and nutritious for human
    food. In the early ages, the ox was used as a religious
    sacrifice, and, in the eyes of the Egyptians was deemed so
    sacred as to be worthy of exaltation to represent Taurus, one of
    the twelve signs of the zodiac. To this day, the Hindoos
    venerate the cow, whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten, and
    whose fat, supposed to have been employed to grease the
    cartridges of the Indian army, was one of the proximate causes
    of the great Sepoy rebellion of 1857. There are no animals of
    greater use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs. There
    is hardly a part of them that does not enter into some of the
    arts and purposes of civilized life. Of their horns are made
    combs, knife-handles, boxes, spoons, and drinking-cups. They are
    also made into transparent plates for lanterns; an invention
    ascribed, in England, to King Alfred. Glue is made from their
    gristles, cartilages, and portions of their hides. Their bones
    often form a substitute for ivory; their skins, when calves, are
    manufactured into vellum; their blood is the basis of Prussian
    blue; their sinews furnish fine and strong threads, used by
    saddlers; their hair enters into various manufactures; their
    tallow is made into candles; their flesh is eaten, and the
    utility of the milk and cream of the cow is well known.

OX-TAIL SOUP.

177. INGREDIENTS.--2 ox-tails, 2 slices of ham, 1 oz. of butter, 2
carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of
savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, 12 whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, a
tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1/2 glass of port
wine, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and
put them in a stewpan, with the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices,
and add them, with the peppercorns and herbs. Put in 1/2 pint of water,
and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are drawn. Fill up the
stewpan with the water, and, when boiling, add the salt. Skim well, and
simmer very gently for 4 hours, or until the tails are tender. Take them
out, skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavour with the
ketchup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for 5 minutes, and
serve.

_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.


PARTRIDGE SOUP.

178. INGREDIENTS.--2 partridges, 3 slices of lean ham, 2 shred onions, 1
head of celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut into any fanciful
shapes, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common, No. 106.

_Mode_.--Cut the partridges into pieces, and braise them in the butter
and ham until quite tender; then take out the legs, wings, and breast,
and set them by. Keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise, and
add the onions and celery; any remains of cold game can be put in, and 3
pints of stock. Simmer slowly for 1 hour, strain it, and skim the fat
off as clean as possible; put in the pieces that were taken out, give it
one boil, and skim again to have it quite clear, and add the sugar and
seasoning. Now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in 1 pint of stock; when
quite tender, put them to the partridges, and serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. or 1s. 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--The meat of the partridges may be pounded with the crumb of a
French roll, and worked with the soup through a sieve. Serve with stewed
celery cut in slices, and put in the tureen.

    THE PARTRIDGE.--This is a timorous bird, being easily taken. It
    became known to the Greeks and Romans, whose tables it helped to
    furnish with food. Formerly, the Red was scarce in Italy, but
    its place was supplied by the White, which, at considerable
    expense, was frequently procured from the Alps. The Athenians
    trained this bird for fighting, and Severus used to lighten the
    cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of its combats. The
    Greeks esteemed its leg most highly, and rejected the other
    portions as unfashionable to be eaten. The Romans, however,
    ventured a little further, and ate the breast, whilst we
    consider the bird as wholly palatable. It is an inhabitant of
    all the temperate countries of Europe, but, on account of the
    geniality of the climate, it abounds most in the Ukraine.

PHEASANT SOUP.

179. INGREDIENTS.--2 pheasants, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 slices of ham, 2
large onions sliced, 1/2 head of celery, the crumb of two French rolls,
the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, salt and cayenne to taste, a little
pounded mace, if liked; 3 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Cut up the pheasants, flour and braise them in the butter and
ham till they are of a nice brown, but not burnt. Put them in a stewpan,
with the onions, celery, and seasoning, and simmer for 2 hours. Strain
the soup; pound the breasts with the crumb of the roll previously
soaked, and the yolks of the eggs; put it to the soup, give one boil,
and serve.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 10d. per quart, or, if made
with fragments of gold game, 1s.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.--Fragments, pieces and bones of cold game, may be used to great
advantage in this soup, and then 1 pheasant will suffice.


PORTABLE SOUP.

180. INGREDIENTS.--2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large faggot
of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 blades
of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to cover all
the ingredients.

_Mode_.--Take the marrow from the bones; put all the ingredients in a
stock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or more, if the meat be not
done to rags; strain it off, and put it in a very cool place; take off
all the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, by setting it over a
sharp fire, but be particular that it does not burn; boil it fast and
uncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred. Put it into a deep dish, and
set it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, place the
dish in it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, and when the soup is
thick and ropy, it is done. Form it into little cakes by pouring a small
quantity on to the bottom of cups or basins; when cold, turn them out on
a flannel to dry. Keep them from the air in tin canisters.

_Average cost_ of this quantity, 16s.

_Note_.--Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a small
piece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, and
simmering for 2 minutes. Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastes,
may be added.

    THE LAUREL or BAY.--The leaves of this tree frequently enter
    into the recipes of cookery; but they ought not to be used
    without the greatest caution, and not at all unless the cook is
    perfectly aware of their effects. It ought to be known, that
    there are two kinds of bay-trees,--the Classic laurel, whose
    leaves are comparatively harmless, and the Cherry-laurel, which
    is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery. They have a
    kernel-like flavour, and are used in blanc-mange, puddings,
    custards &c.; but when acted upon by water, they develop prussic
    acid, and, therefore, but a small number of the leaves should be
    used at a time.

RABBIT SOUP.

181. INGREDIENTS.--2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a faggot of savoury
herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, salt and
white pepper to taste, a little pounded mace, 1/2 pint of cream, the
yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, the crumb of a French roll, nearly 3 quarts
of water.

_Mode_.--Make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and
keep the nice pieces for a dish or _entrée_. Put them into warm water,
and draw the blood; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with a
faggot of herbs, and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal stock or
water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add the 3 quarts of water,
and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbet, pick the meat from the bones,
covering it up to keep it white; put the bones back in the liquor, add
the vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours; skim and strain, and let it
cool. Now pound the meat in a mortar, with the yolks of the eggs, and
the crumb of the roll previously soaked; rub it through a tammy, and
gradually add it to the strained liquor, and simmer for 15 minutes. Mix
arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream (say 2 dessert-spoonfuls), and
stir in the soup; bring it to a boil, and serve. This soup must be very
white, and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour,
vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in a little stock, and put in 5
minutes before serving.

_Time_.--Nearly 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.


REGENCY SOUP.

182. Ingredients.--Any bones and remains of any cold game, such as of
pheasants, partridges, &c.; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of celery,
1 turnip, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled hard, 1/4
pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common
stock, No. 106.

_Mode_.--Place the bones or remains of game in the stewpan, with the
vegetables sliced; pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 hours; skim off
all the fat, and strain it. Wash the barley, and boil it in 2 or 3
waters before putting it to the soup; finish simmering in the soup, and
when the barley is done, take out half, and pound the other half with
the yolks of the eggs. When you have finished pounding, rub it through a
clean tammy, add the cream, and salt if necessary; give one boil, and
serve very hot, putting in the barley that was taken out first.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart, if made with medium
stock, or 6d. per quart, with common stock.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


SOUP A LA REINE.

I.

183. INGREDIENTS.--1 large fowl, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, the crumb of 1
1/2 French roll, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small lump of
sugar, 2 quarts of good white veal stock, No. 107.

_Mode_.--Boil the fowl gently in the stock till quite tender, which will
be in about an hour, or rather more; take out the fowl, pull the meat
from the bones, and put it into a mortar with the almonds, and pound
very fine. When beaten enough, put the meat back in the stock, with the
crumb of the rolls, and let it simmer for an hour; rub it through a
tammy, add the sugar, 1/2 pint of cream that has boiled, and, if you
prefer, cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces, and pour the
soup over it, when you serve.

_Time_.--2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 2s. 7d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--All white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in another
of boiling water. (_See_ BAIN MARIE, No. 87.)


II. (Economical.)

184. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of roast chickens, 1/2 teacupful of rice,
salt and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.

_Mode_.--Take all the white meat and pound it with the rice, which has
been slightly cooked, but not much. When it is all well pounded, dilute
with the stock, and pass through a sieve. This soup should neither be
too clear nor too thick.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Note_.--If stock is not at hand, put the chicken-bones in water, with
an onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade of mace, pepper and salt,
and stew for 3 hours.


STEW SOUP OF SALT MEAT.

185. INGREDIENTS.--Any pieces of salt beef or pork, say 2 lbs.; 4
carrots, 4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz. of oatmeal
or ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the meat small, add the water, and let it simmer for
23/4 hours. Now add the vegetables, cut in thin small slices; season,
and boil for 1 hour. Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart without the meat.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Note_.--If rice is used instead of oatmeal, put it in with the
vegetables.


STEW SOUP.

I.

186. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, 3/4 lb. of
_rice_, a large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2
quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the beef up in small pieces, add the other ingredients, and
boil gently for 21/2 hours. Oatmeal or potatoes would be a great
improvement.

_Time_.-21/2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.


II.

187. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of beef, mutton, or pork; 1/2 pint of split
peas, 4 turnips, 8 potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz. of oatmeal or 3 oz. of
rice, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat in small pieces, as also the vegetables, and add
them, with the peas, to the water. Boil gently for 3 hours; thicken with
the oatmeal, boil for another 1/4 hour, stirring all the time, and
season with pepper and salt.

_Time_.--3-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This soup may be made of the liquor in which tripe has been
boiled, by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c.


TURKEY SOUP (a Seasonable Dish at Christmas).

188. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, the remains of a
cold roast turkey, 2 oz. of rice-flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper to
taste, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut up the turkey in small pieces, and put it in the stock; let
it simmer slowly until the bones are quite clean. Take the bones out,
and work the soup through a sieve; when cool, skim well. Mix the
rice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a little of the soup; add it
with the seasoning and sauce, or ketchup. Give one boil, and serve.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ at Christmas.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--Instead of thickening this soup, vermicelli or macaroni may be
served in it.

    THE TURKEY.--The common turkey is a native of North America, and
    was thence introduced to England, in the reign of Henry VIII.
    According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry,"
    about the year 1585 it begun to form a dish at our rural
    Christmas feasts.

      "Beef, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,
      Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well dress'd,
      Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,
      As then in the country is counted good cheer."

    It is one of the most difficult birds to rear, of any that we
    have; yet, in its wild state, is found in great abundance in the
    forests of Canada, where, it might have been imagined that the
    severity of the climate would be unfavourable to its ever
    becoming plentiful. They are very fond of the seeds of nettles,
    and the seeds of the foxglove poison them.

TURTLE SOUP (founded on M. Ude's Recipe).

189. INGREDIENTS.--A turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal, 1
large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, 1
onion, 6 cloves, 4 blades of mace, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 bottle of
Madeira, 1 lump of sugar. For the _Quenelles à Tortue_, 1 lb. of veal, 1
lb. of bread crumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped
parsley, the juice of 2 lemons.

_Mode_.--To make this soup with less difficulty, cut off the head of the
turtle the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaning
heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cut
this off all round. Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c.
may run out, when the flesh should be cut off along the spine, with the
knife sloping towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which
sometimes might escape the eye. When all the flesh about the members is
obtained, wash these clean, and let them drain. Have ready, on the fire,
a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells; and
when you perceive that they come easily off, take them out of the water,
and prick them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boil
the back and belly till the bones can be taken off, without, however,
allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will be
boiled again in the soup. When these latter come off easily, lay them on
earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick together, and put them
to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts,
and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used to
moisten all the sauces.

All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be
drawn down in the following manner:--Lay the slices of ham on the bottom
of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, according to
the size of the turtle; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and over
the whole the members. Now moisten with the water in which you are
boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. It may now be
ascertained if it be thoroughly done by thrusting a knife into the
fleshy part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time to moisten it
again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been boiling. Put in
a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a
turtle,--sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3
bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a
large onion stuck with 6 cloves. Let the whole be thoroughly done. With
respect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and if
so, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their
appearance only when the soup is absolutely completed. When the flesh is
also completely done, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a very
thin white _roux;_ for turtle soup must not be much thickened. When the
flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good colour,
moisten it with the liquor, keeping it over the fire till it boils.
Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin; then draw
the stewpan on the side of the stove, to skim off the white scum, and
all the fat and oil that rise to the surface of the sauce. By this time
all the softer parts will be sufficiently cold; when they must be cut to
about the size of one or two inches square, and thrown into the soup,
which must now be left to simmer gently. When done, skim off all the fat
and froth. Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock,--sweet
basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves,
common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion
cut in four pieces, with a few blades of mace. Put these in a stewpan,
with about 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, and let it simmer on a slow fire
till quite melted, when pour in 1 bottle of good Madeira, adding a small
bit of sugar, and let it boil gently for 1 hour. When done, rub it
through a tammy, and add it to the soup. Let this boil, till no white
scum rises; then take with a skimmer all the bits of turtle out of the
sauce, and put them in a clean stewpan: when you have all out, pour the
soup over the bits of turtle, through a tammy, and proceed as follows:--

QUENELLES À TORTUE.--Make some _quenelles à tortue_, which being
substitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate. Take out the
fleshy part of a leg of veal, about 1 lb., scrape off all the meat,
without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same
quantity of crumbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it,
and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calf's
udder, a little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a little
cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine; then
thicken the mixture with 2 whole eggs, and the yolk of another. Next try
this _farce_ or stuffing in boiling-hot water, to ascertain its
consistency: if it is too thin, add the yolk of an egg. When the _farce_
is perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let
the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg;
poach it in salt and boiling water, and when very hard, drain on a
sieve, and put it into the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze the juice
of 2 or 3 lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour that into the
soup. THE FINS may be served as a _plat d'entrée_ with a little turtle
sauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle _au bain
marie_, and serve the members entire, with a _matelote_ sauce, garnished
with mushrooms, cocks' combs, _quenelles_, &c. When either lemon-juice
or cayenne pepper has been introduced, no boiling must take place.

_Note_.--It is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared a day
before it is used, is generally preferable, the flavour being more
uniform. Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve
the green fat (be cautious not to study a very brown colour,--the
natural green of the fish is preferred by every epicure and true
connoisseur) in a separate stewpan, and likewise when the turtle is
entirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each time.
You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for many reasons: first, it
will be long in cooling; secondly, when you take some out, it will break
all the rest into rags. If you warm in a _bain marie_, the turtle will
always retain the same taste; but if you boil it often, it becomes
strong, and loses the delicacy of its flavour.

THE COST OF TURTLE SOUP.--This is the most expensive soup brought to
table. It is sold by the quart,--one guinea being the standard price for
that quantity. The price of live turtle ranges from 8d. to 2s. per lb.,
according to supply and demand. When live turtle is dear, many cooks use
the tinned turtle, which is killed when caught, and preserved by being
put in hermetically-sealed canisters, and so sent over to England. The
cost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lbs., is about £2, and for a
small one, containing the green fat, 7s. 6d. From these about 6 quarts
of good soup may be made.

[Illustration: THE TURTLE.]

    THE GREEN TURTLE.--This reptile is found in large numbers on the
    coasts of all the islands and continents within the tropics, in
    both the old and new worlds. Their length is often five feet and
    upwards, and they range in weight from 50 to 500 or 600 lbs. As
    turtles find a constant supply of food on the coasts which they
    frequent, they are not of a quarrelsome disposition, as the
    submarine meadows in which they pasture, yield plenty for them
    all. Like other species of amphibia, too, they have the power of
    living many months without food; so that they live harmlessly
    and peaceably together, notwithstanding that they seem to have
    no common bond of association, but merely assemble in the same
    places as if entirely by accident. England is mostly supplied
    with them from the West Indies, whence they are brought alive
    and in tolerable health. The green turtle is highly prized on
    account of the delicious quality of its flesh, the fat of the
    upper and lower shields of the animal being esteemed the richest
    and most delicate parts. The soup, however, is apt to disagree
    with weak stomachs. As an article of luxury, the turtle has only
    come into fashion within the last 100 years, and some hundreds
    of tureens of turtle soup are served annually at the lord
    mayor's dinner in Guildhall.

A GOOD FAMILY SOUP.

190. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of a cold tongue, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, any
cold pieces of meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1
parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 teacupful of rice;
salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, and simmer gently for 4
hours, or until all the goodness is drawn from the meat. Strain off the
soup, and let it stand to get cold. The kernels and soft parts of the
tongue must be saved. When the soup is wanted for use, skim off all the
fat, put in the kernels and soft parts of the tongue, slice in a small
quantity of fresh carrot, turnip, and onion; stew till the vegetables
are tender, and serve with toasted bread.

_Time_.--5 hours. __Average cost_,3d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.


HODGE-PODGE.

191. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 1 pint of
table-beer, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery; pepper and
salt to taste; thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Put the meat, beer, and water in a stewpan; simmer for a few
minutes, and skim carefully. Add the vegetables and seasoning; stew
gently till the meat is tender. Thicken with the butter and flour, and
serve with turnips and carrots, or spinach and celery.

_Time_.--3 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 12 persons.

    TABLE BEER.--This is nothing more than a weak ale, and is not
    made so much with a view to strength, as to transparency of
    colour and an agreeable bitterness of taste. It is, or ought to
    be, manufactured by the London professional brewers, from the
    best pale malt, or amber and malt. Six barrels are usually drawn
    from one quarter of malt, with which are mixed 4 or 5 lbs. of
    hops. As a beverage, it is agreeable when fresh; but it is not
    adapted to keep long.




FISH SOUPS.


FISH STOCK.

192. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of beef or veal (these can be omitted), any
kind of white fish trimmings, of fish which are to be dressed for table,
2 onions, the rind of 1/2 a lemon, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 carrots, 2
quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the fish, and put it, with the other ingredients, into
the water. Simmer for 2 hours; skim the liquor carefully, and strain it.
When a richer stock is wanted, fry the vegetables and fish before adding
the water.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, with meat, 10d. per quart; without,
3d.

_Note_.--Do not make fish stock long before it is wanted, as it soon
turns sour.


CRAYFISH SOUP.

193. INGREDIENTS.--50 crayfish, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 anchovies, the
crumb of 1 French roll, a little lobster-spawn, seasoning to taste, 2
quarts of medium stock, No. 105, or fish stock, No. 192.

_Mode_.--Shell the crayfish, and put the fish between two plates until
they are wanted; pound the shells in a mortar, with the butter and
anchovies; when well beaten, add a pint of stock, and simmer for 3/4 of
an hour. Strain it through a hair sieve, put the remainder of the stock
to it, with the crumb of the rolls; give it one boil, and rub it through
a tammy, with the lobster-spawn. Put in the fish, but do not let the
soup boil, after it has been rubbed through the tammy. If necessary, add
seasoning.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 3d. or 1s. 9d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from January to July.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: CRAYFISH.]

    THE CRAYFISH.--This is one of those fishes that were highly
    esteemed by the ancients. The Greeks preferred it when brought
    from Alexandria, and the Romans ate it boiled with cumin, and
    seasoned with pepper and other condiments. A recipe tells us,
    that crayfish can be preserved several days in baskets with
    fresh grass, such as the nettle, or in a bucket with about
    three-eighths of an inch of water. More water would kill them,
    because the large quantity of air they require necessitates the
    water in which they are kept, to be continually renewed.

EEL SOUP.

194. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of eels, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, 3 blades of
mace, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 oz. of peppercorns, salt to taste, 2
tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Wash the eels, cut them into thin slices, and put them in the
stewpan with the butter; let them simmer for a few minutes, then pour
the water to them, and add the onion, cut in thin slices, the herbs,
mace, and seasoning. Simmer till the eels are tender, but do not break
the fish. Take them out carefully, mix the flour smoothly to a batter
with the cream, bring it to a boil, pour over the eels, and serve.

_Time_.--1 hour, or rather more. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from June to March.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This soup may be flavoured differently by omitting the cream,
and adding a little ketchup or Harvey's sauce.


LOBSTER SOUP.

195. INGREDIENTS.--3 large lobsters, or 6 small ones; the crumb of a
French roll, 2 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 small bunch of sweet herbs, 1 strip
of lemon-peel, 2 oz. of butter, a little nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of flour,
1 pint of cream, 1 pint of milk; forcemeat balls, mace, salt and pepper
to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the lobsters, and beat the fins, chine, and
small claws in a mortar, previously taking away the brown fin and the
bag in the head. Put it in a stewpan, with the crumb of the roll,
anchovies, onions, herbs, lemon-peel, and the water; simmer gently till
all the goodness is extracted, and strain it off. Pound the spawn in a
mortar, with the butter, nutmeg, and flour, and mix with it the cream
and milk. Give one boil up, at the same time adding the tails cut in
pieces. Make the forcemeat balls with the remainder of the lobster,
seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little flour, and a few
bread crumbs; moisten them with the egg, heat them in the soup, and
serve.

_Time_.--2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 3s 6d per quart.

_Seasonable_ from April to October.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.


OYSTER SOUP.

I.

196. INGREDIENTS.--6 dozen of oysters, 2 quarts of white stock, 1/2 pint
of cream, 2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of flour; salt, cayenne, and mace
to taste.

_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor; take them out, beard
them, and put them in a tureen. Take a pint of the stock, put in the
beards and the liquor, which must be carefully strained, and simmer for
1/2 an hour. Take it off the fire, strain it again, and add the
remainder of the stock with the seasoning and mace. Bring it to a boil,
add the thickening of butter and flour, simmer for 5 minutes, stir in
the boiling cream, pour it over the oysters, and serve.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 8d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This soup can be made less rich by using milk instead of cream,
and thickening with arrowroot instead of butter and flour.


II.

197. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of good mutton broth, 6 dozen oysters, 2 oz.
butter, 1 oz. of flour.

_Mode_.--Beard the oysters, and scald them in their own liquor; then add
it, well strained, to the broth; thicken with the butter and flour, and
simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Put in the oysters, stir well, but do not let
it boil, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

    SEASON OF OYSTERS.--From April and May to the end of July,
    oysters are said to be sick; but by the end of August they
    become healthy, having recovered from the effects of spawning.
    When they are not in season, the males have a black, and the
    females a milky substance in the gill. From some lines of
    Oppian, it would appear that the ancients were ignorant that the
    oyster is generally found adhering to rocks. The starfish is one
    of the most deadly enemies of these bivalves. The poet says:--

      The prickly star creeps on with full deceit
      To force the oyster from his close retreat.
      When gaping lids their widen'd void display,
      The watchful star thrusts in a pointed ray,
      Of all its treasures spoils the rifled case,
      And empty shells the sandy hillock grace.

PRAWN SOUP.

198. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of fish stock or water, 2 pints of prawns,
the crumbs of a French roll, anchovy sauce or mushroom ketchup to taste,
1 blade of mace, 1 pint of vinegar, a little lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Pick out the tails of the prawns, put the bodies in a stewpan
with 1 blade of mace, 1/2 pint of vinegar, and the same quantity of
water; stew them for 1/4 hour, and strain off the liquor. Put the fish
stock or water into a stewpan; add the strained liquor, pound the prawns
with the crumb of a roll moistened with a little of the soup, rub them
through a tammy, and mix them by degrees with the soup; add ketchup or
anchovy sauce to taste, with a little lemon-juice. When it is well
cooked, put in a few picked prawns; let them get thoroughly hot, and
serve. If not thick enough, put in a little butter and flour.

_Time_.--hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. per quart, if made with water.

_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This can be thickened with tomatoes, and vermicelli served in
it, which makes it a very tasteful soup.

[Illustration: THE PRAWN.]

    THE PRAWN.--This little fish bears a striking resemblance to the
    shrimp, but is neither so common nor so small. It is to be found
    on most of the sandy shores of Europe. The Isle of Wight is
    famous for shrimps, where they are potted; but both the prawns
    and the shrimps vended in London, are too much salted for the
    excellence of their natural flavour to be preserved. They are
    extremely lively little animals, as seen in their native
    retreats.




[Illustration]

FISH.


CHAPTER VII.


THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES.


199. IN NATURAL HISTORY, FISHES form the fourth class in the system of
Linnaeus, and are described as having long under-jaws, eggs without
white, organs of sense, fins for supporters, bodies covered with concave
scales, gills to supply the place of lungs for respiration, and water
for the natural element of their existence. Had mankind no other
knowledge of animals than of such as inhabit the land and breathe their
own atmosphere, they would listen with incredulous wonder, if told that
there were other kinds of beings which existed only in the waters, and
which would die almost as soon as they were taken from them. However
strongly these facts might be attested, they would hardly believe them,
without the operation of their own senses, as they would recollect the
effect produced on their own bodies when immersed in water, and the
impossibility of their sustaining life in it for any lengthened period
of time. Experience, however, has taught them, that the "great deep" is
crowded with inhabitants of various sizes, and of vastly different
constructions, with modes of life entirely distinct from those which
belong to the animals of the land, and with peculiarities of design,
equally wonderful with those of any other works which have come from the
hand of the Creator. The history of these races, however, must remain
for ever, more or less, in a state of darkness, since the depths in
which they live, are beyond the power of human exploration, and since
the illimitable expansion of their domain places them almost entirely
out of the reach of human accessibility.

200. IN STUDYING THE CONFORMATION OF FISHES, we naturally conclude that
they are, in every respect, well adapted to the element in which they
have their existence. Their shape has a striking resemblance to the
lower part of a ship; and there is no doubt that the form of the fish
originally suggested the form of the ship. The body is in general
slender, gradually diminishing towards each of its extremities, and
flattened on each of its sides. This is precisely the form of the lower
part of the hull of a ship; and it enables both the animal and the
vessel, with comparative ease, to penetrate and divide the resisting
medium for which they have been adapted. The velocity of a ship,
however, in sailing before the wind, is by no means to be compared to
that of a fish. It is well known that the largest fishes will, with the
greatest ease, overtake a ship in full sail, play round it without
effort, and shoot ahead of it at pleasure. This arises from their great
flexibility, which, to compete with mocks the labours of art, and
enables them to migrate thousands of miles in a season, without the
slightest indications of languor or fatigue.

201. THE PRINCIPAL INSTRUMENTS EMPLOYED BY FISHES to accelerate their
motion, are their air-bladder, fins, and tail. By means of the
air-bladder they enlarge or diminish the specific gravity of their
bodies. When they wish to sink, they compress the muscles of the
abdomen, and eject the air contained in it; by which, their weight,
compared with that of the water, is increased, and they consequently
descend. On the other hand, when they wish to rise, they relax the
compression of the abdominal muscles, when the air-bladder fills and
distends, and the body immediately ascends to the surface. How simply,
yet how wonderfully, has the Supreme Being adapted certain means to the
attainment of certain ends! Those fishes which are destitute of the
air-bladder are heavy in the water, and have no great "alacrity" in
rising. The larger proportion of them remain at the bottom, unless they
are so formed as to be able to strike their native element downwards
with sufficient force to enable them to ascend. When the air-bladder of
a fish is burst, its power of ascending to the surface has for ever
passed away. From a knowledge of this fact, the fishermen of cod are
enabled to preserve them alive for a considerable time in their
well-boats. The means they adopt to accomplish this, is to perforate the
sound, or air-bladder, with a needle, which disengages the air, when the
fishes immediately descend to the bottom of the well, into which they
are thrown. Without this operation, it would be impossible to keep the
cod under water whilst they had life. In swimming, the _fins_ enable
fishes to preserve their upright position, especially those of the
belly, which act like two feet. Without those, they would swim with
their bellies upward, as it is in their backs that the centre of gravity
lies. In ascending and descending, these are likewise of great
assistance, as they contract and expand accordingly. The _tail_ is an
instrument of great muscular force, and largely assists the fish in all
its motions. In some instances it acts like the rudder of a ship, and
enables it to turn sideways; and when moved from side to side with a
quick vibratory motion, fishes are made, in the same manner as the
"screw" propeller makes a steamship, to dart forward with a celerity
proportioned to the muscular force with which it is employed.

202. THE BODIES OF FISHES are mostly covered with a kind of horny
scales; but some are almost entirely without them, or have them so
minute as to be almost invisible; as is the case with the eel. The
object of these is to preserve them from injury by the pressure of the
water, or the sudden contact with pebbles, rocks, or sea-weeds. Others,
again, are enveloped in a fatty, oleaginous substance, also intended as
a defence against the friction of the water; and those in which the
scales are small, are supplied with a larger quantity of slimy matter.

203. THE RESPIRATION OF FISHES is effected by means of those comb-like
organs which are placed on each side of the neck, and which are called
gills. It is curious to watch the process of breathing as it is
performed by the finny tribes. It seems to be so continuous, that it
might almost pass for an illustration of the vexed problem which
conceals the secret of perpetual motion. In performing it, they fill
their mouths with water, which they drive backwards with a force so
great as to open the large flap, to allow it to escape behind. In this
operation all, or a great portion, of the air contained in the water, is
left among the feather-like processes of the gills, and is carried into
the body, there to perform its part in the animal economy. In proof of
this, it has been ascertained that, if the water in which fishes are
put, is, by any means, denuded of its air, they immediately seek the
surface, and begin to gasp for it. Hence, distilled water is to them
what a vacuum made by an air-pump, is to most other animals. For this
reason, when a fishpond, or other aqueous receptacle in which fishes are
kept, is entirely frozen over, it is necessary to make holes in the ice,
not so especially for the purpose of feeding them, as for that of giving
them air to breathe.

204. THE POSITIONS OF THE TEETH OF FISHES are well calculated to excite
our amazement; for, in some cases, these are situated in the jaws,
sometimes on the tongue or palate, and sometimes even in the throat.
They are in general sharp-pointed and immovable; but in the carp they
are obtuse, and in the pike so easily moved as to seem to have no deeper
hold than such as the mere skin can afford. In the herring, the tongue
is set with teeth, to enable it the better, it is supposed, to retain
its food.

205. ALTHOUGH NATURALISTS HAVE DIVIDED FISHES into two great tribes, the
_osseous_ and the _cartilaginous_, yet the distinction is not very
precise; for the first have a great deal of cartilage, and the second,
at any rate, a portion of calcareous matter in their bones. It may,
therefore, be said that the bones of fishes form a kind of intermediate
substance between true bones and cartilages. The backbone extends
through the whole length of the body, and consists of vertebrae, strong
and thick towards the head, but weaker and more slender as it approaches
the tail. Each species has a determinate number of vertebrae, which are
increased in size in proportion with the body. The ribs are attached to
the processes of the vertebrae, and inclose the breast and abdomen. Some
kinds, as the rays, have no ribs; whilst others, as the sturgeon and
eel, have very short ones. Between the pointed processes of the
vertebrae are situated the bones which support the dorsal (back) and the
anal (below the tail) fins, which are connected with the processes by a
ligament. At the breast are the sternum or breastbone, clavicles or
collar-bones, and the scapulae or shoulder-blades, on which the
pectoral or breast fins are placed. The bones which support the ventral
or belly fins are called the _ossa pelvis_. Besides these principal
bones, there are often other smaller ones, placed between the muscles to
assist their motion.

206. SOME OF THE ORGANS OF SENSE IN FISHES are supposed to be possessed
by them in a high degree, and others much more imperfectly. Of the
latter kind are the senses of touch and taste, which are believed to be
very slightly developed. On the other hand, those of hearing, seeing,
and smelling, are ascertained to be acute, but the first in a lesser
degree than both the second and third. Their possession of an auditory
organ was long doubted, and even denied by some physiologists; but it
has been found placed on the sides of the skull, or in the cavity which
contains the brain. It occupies a position entirely distinct and
detached from the skull, and, in this respect, differs in the local
disposition of the same sense in birds and quadrupeds. In some fishes,
as in those of the ray kind, the organ is wholly encompassed by those
parts which contain the cavity of the skull; whilst in the cod and
salmon kind it is in the part within the skull. Its structure is, in
every way, much more simple than that of the same sense in those animals
which live entirely in the air; but there is no doubt that they have the
adaptation suitable to their condition. In some genera, as in the rays,
the external orifice or ear is very small, and is placed in the upper
surface of the head; whilst in others there is no visible external
orifice whatever. However perfect the _sight_ of fishes may be,
experience has shown that this sense is of much less use to them than
that of smelling, in searching for their food. The optic nerves in
fishes have this peculiarity,--that they are not confounded with one
another in their middle progress between their origin and their orbit.
The one passes over the other without any communication; so that the
nerve which comes from the left side of the brain goes distinctly to the
right eye, and that which comes from the right goes distinctly to the
left. In the greater part of them, the eye is covered with the same
transparent skin that covers the rest of the head. The object of this
arrangement, perhaps, is to defend it from the action of the water, as
there are no eyelids. The globe in front is somewhat depressed, and is
furnished behind with a muscle, which serves to lengthen or flatten it,
according to the necessities of the animal. The crystalline humour,
which in quadrupeds is flattened, is, in fishes, nearly globular. The
organ of _smelling_ in fishes is large, and is endued, at its entry,
with a dilating and contracting power, which is employed as the wants of
the animal may require. It is mostly by the acuteness of their smell
that fishes are enabled to discover their food; for their tongue is not
designed for nice sensation, being of too firm a cartilaginous substance
for this purpose.

207. WITH RESPECT TO THE FOOD OF FISHES, this is almost universally
found in their own element. They are mostly carnivorous, though they
seize upon almost anything that comes in their way: they even devour
their own offspring, and manifest a particular predilection for all
living creatures. Those, to which Nature has meted out mouths of the
greatest capacity, would seem to pursue everything with life, and
frequently engage in fierce conflicts with their prey. The animal with
the largest mouth is usually the victor; and he has no sooner conquered
his foe than he devours him. Innumerable shoals of one species pursue
those of another, with a ferocity which draws them from the pole to the
equator, through all the varying temperatures and depths of their
boundless domain. In these pursuits a scene of universal violence is the
result; and many species must have become extinct, had not Nature
accurately proportioned the means of escape, the production, and the
numbers, to the extent and variety of the danger to which they are
exposed. Hence the smaller species are not only more numerous, but more
productive than the larger; whilst their instinct leads them in search
of food and safety near the shores, where, from the shallowness of the
waters, many of their foes are unable to follow them.

208. THE FECUNDITY OF FISHES has been the wonder of every natural
philosopher whose attention has been attracted to the subject. They are
in general oviparous, or egg-producing; but there are a few, such as the
eel and the blenny, which are viviparous, or produce their young alive.
The males have the _milt_ and the females the _roe_; but some
individuals, as the sturgeon and the cod tribes, are said to contain
both. The greater number deposit their spawn in the sand or gravel; but
some of those which dwell in the depths of the ocean attach their eggs
to sea-weeds. In every instance, however, their fruitfulness far
surpasses that of any other race of animals. According to Lewenhoeck,
the cod annually spawns upwards of nine millions of eggs, contained in a
single roe. The flounder produces one million; the mackerel above five
hundred thousand; a herring of a moderate size at least ten thousand; a
carp fourteen inches in length, according to Petit, contained two
hundred and sixty-two thousand two hundred and twenty-four; a perch
deposited three hundred and eighty thousand six hundred and forty; and a
female sturgeon seven millions six hundred and fifty-three thousand two
hundred. The viviparous species are by no means so prolific; yet the
blenny brings forth two or three hundred at a time, which commence
sporting together round their parent the moment they have come into
existence.

209. IN REFERENCE TO THE LONGEVITY OF FISHES, it is affirmed to surpass
that of all other created beings; and it is supposed they are, to a
great extent, exempted from the diseases to which the flesh of other
animals is heir. In place of suffering from the rigidity of age, which
is the cause of the natural decay of those that "live and move and have
their being" on the land, their bodies continue to grow with each
succeeding supply of food, and the conduits of life to perform their
functions unimpaired. The age of fishes has not been properly
ascertained, although it is believed that the most minute of the species
has a longer lease of life than man. The mode in which they die has been
noted by the Rev. Mr. White, the eminent naturalist of Selbourne. As
soon as the fish sickens, the head sinks lower and lower, till the
animal, as it were, stands upon it. After this, as it becomes weaker, it
loses its poise, till the tail turns over, when it comes to the surface,
and floats with its belly upwards. The reason for its floating in this
manner is on account of the body being no longer balanced by the fins of
the belly, and the broad muscular back preponderating, by its own
gravity, over the belly, from this latter being a cavity, and
consequently lighter.

210. FISHES ARE EITHER SOLITARY OR GREGARIOUS, and some of them migrate
to great distances, and into certain rivers, to deposit their spawn. Of
sea-fishes, the cod, herring, mackerel, and many others, assemble in
immense shoals, and migrate through different tracts of the ocean; but,
whether considered in their solitary or gregarious capacity, they are
alike wonderful to all who look through Nature up to Nature's God, and
consider, with due humility, yet exalted admiration, the sublime
variety, beauty, power, and grandeur of His productions, as manifested
in the Creation.


FISH AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD.

211. AS THE NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF FISH are deemed inferior to those of
what is called butchers' meat, it would appear, from all we can learn,
that, in all ages, it has held only a secondary place in the estimation
of those who have considered the science of gastronomy as a large
element in the happiness of mankind. Among the Jews of old it was very
little used, although it seems not to have been entirely interdicted, as
Moses prohibited only the use of such as had neither scales nor fins.
The Egyptians, however, made fish an article of diet, notwithstanding
that it was rejected by their priests. Egypt, however, is not a country
favourable to the production of fish, although we read of the people,
when hungry, eating it raw; of epicures among them having dried it in
the sun; and of its being salted and preserved, to serve as a repast on
days of great solemnity.

    The modern Egyptians are, in general, extremely temperate in
    regard to food. Even the richest among them take little pride,
    and, perhaps, experience as little delight, in the luxuries of
    the table. Their dishes mostly consist of pilaus, soups, and
    stews, prepared principally of onions, cucumbers, and other cold
    vegetables, mixed with a little meat cut into small pieces. On
    special occasions, however, a whole sheep is placed on the
    festive board; but during several of the hottest months of the
    year, the richest restrict themselves entirely to a vegetable
    diet. The poor are contented with a little oil or sour milk, in
    which they may dip their bread.

212. PASSING FROM AFRICA TO EUROPE, we come amongst a people who have,
almost from time immemorial, occupied a high place in the estimation of
every civilized country; yet the Greeks, in their earlier ages, made
very little use of fish as an article of diet. In the eyes of the heroes
of Homer it had little favour; for Menelaus complained that "hunger
pressed their digestive organs," and they had been obliged to live upon
fish. Subsequently, however, fish became one of the principal articles
of diet amongst the Hellenes; and both Aristophanes and Athenaeus allude
to it, and even satirize their countrymen for their excessive partiality
to the turbot and mullet.

    So infatuated were many of the Greek gastronomes with the love
    of fish, that some of them would have preferred death from
    indigestion to the relinquishment of the precious dainties with
    which a few of the species supplied them. Philoxenes of Cythera
    was one of these. On being informed by his physician that he was
    going to die of indigestion, on account of the quantity he was
    consuming of a delicious fish, "Be it so," he calmly observed;
    "but before I die, let me finish the remainder."

213. THE GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF GREECE was highly favourable for the
development of a taste for the piscatory tribes; and the skill of the
Greek cooks was so great, that they could impart every variety of relish
to the dish they were called upon to prepare. Athenaeus has transmitted
to posterity some very important precepts upon their ingenuity in
seasoning with salt, oil, and aromatics.

    At the present day the food of the Greeks, through the combined
    influence of poverty and the long fasts which their religion
    imposes upon them, is, to a large extent, composed of fish,
    accompanied with vegetables and fruit. Caviare, prepared from
    the roes of sturgeons, is the national ragout, which, like all
    other fish dishes, they season with aromatic herbs. Snails
    dressed in garlic are also a favourite dish.

214. AS THE ROMANS, in a great measure, took their taste in the fine
arts from the Greeks, so did they, in some measure, their piscine
appetites. The eel-pout and the lotas's liver were the favourite fish
dishes of the Roman epicures; whilst the red mullet was esteemed as one
of the most delicate fishes that could be brought to the table.

    With all the elegance, taste, and refinement of Roman luxury, it
    was sometimes promoted or accompanied by acts of great
    barbarity. In proof of this, the mention of the red mullet
    suggests the mode in which it was sometimes treated for the, to
    us, _horrible_ entertainment of the _fashionable_ in Roman
    circles. It may be premised, that as England has, Rome, in her
    palmy days, had, her fops, who had, no doubt, through the medium
    of their cooks, discovered that when the scales of the red
    mullet were removed, the flesh presented a fine pink-colour.
    Having discovered this, it was further observed that at the
    death of the animal, this colour passed through a succession of
    beautiful shades, and, in order that these might be witnessed
    and enjoyed in their fullest perfection, the poor mullet was
    served alive in a glass vessel.

215. THE LOVE OF FISH among the ancient Romans rose to a real mania.
Apicius offered a prize to any one who could invent a new brine
compounded of the liver of red mullets; and Lucullus had a canal cut
through a mountain, in the neighbourhood of Naples, that fish might be
the more easily transported to the gardens of his villa. Hortensius, the
orator, wept over the death of a turbot which he had fed with his own
hands; and the daughter of Druses adorned one that she had, with rings
of gold. These were, surely, instances of misplaced affection; but there
is no accounting for tastes. It was but the other day that we read in
the "_Times_" of a wealthy _living_ English hermit, who delights in the
companionship of rats!

    The modern Romans are merged in the general name of Italians,
    who, with the exception of macaroni, have no specially
    characteristic article of food.

216. FROM ROME TO GAUL is, considering the means of modern locomotion,
no great way; but the ancient sumptuary laws of that kingdom give us
little information regarding the ichthyophagous propensities of its
inhabitants. Louis XII. engaged six fishmongers to furnish his board
with fresh-water animals, and Francis I. had twenty-two, whilst Henry
the Great extended his requirements a little further, and had
twenty-four. In the time of Louis XIV. the cooks had attained to such a
degree of perfection in their art, that they could convert the form and
flesh of the trout, pike, or carp, into the very shape and flavour of
the most delicious game.

    The French long enjoyed a European reputation for their skill
    and refinement in the preparing of food. In place of plain
    joints, French cookery delights in the marvels of what are
    called made dishes, ragouts, stews, and fricassees, in which no
    trace of the original materials of which they are compounded is
    to be found.

217. FROM GAUL WE CROSS TO BRITAIN, where it has been asserted, by, at
least, one authority, that the ancient inhabitants ate no fish. However
this may be, we know that the British shores, particularly those of the
North Sea, have always been well supplied with the best kinds of fish,
which we may reasonably infer was not unknown to the inhabitants, or
likely to be lost upon them for the lack of knowledge as to how they
tasted. By the time of Edward II., fish had, in England, become a
dainty, especially the sturgeon, which was permitted to appear on no
table but that of the king. In the fourteenth century, a decree of King
John informs us that the people ate both seals and porpoises; whilst in
the days of the Troubadours, whales were fished for and caught in the
Mediterranean Sea, for the purpose of being used as human food.

    Whatever checks the ancient British may have had upon their
    piscatory appetites, there are happily none of any great
    consequence upon the modern, who delight in wholesome food of
    every kind. Their taste is, perhaps, too much inclined to that
    which is accounted solid and substantial; but they really eat
    more moderately, even of animal food, than either the French or
    the Germans. Roast beef, or other viands cooked in the plainest
    manner, are, with them, a sufficient luxury; yet they delight in
    living _well_, whilst it is easy to prove how largely their
    affections are developed by even the prospect of a substantial
    cheer. In proof of this we will just observe, that if a great
    dinner is to be celebrated, it is not uncommon for the appointed
    stewards and committee to meet and have a preliminary dinner
    among themselves, in order to arrange the great one, and after
    that, to have another dinner to discharge the bill which the
    great one cost. This enjoyable disposition we take to form a
    very large item in the aggregate happiness of the nation.

218. THE GENERAL USE OF FISH, as an article of human food among
civilized nations, we have thus sufficiently shown, and will conclude
this portion of our subject with the following hints, which ought to be
remembered by all those who are fond of occasionally varying their
dietary with a piscine dish:--

I. Fish shortly before they spawn are, in general, best in condition.
When the spawning is just over, they are out of season, and unfit for
human food.

II. When fish is out of season, it has a transparent, bluish tinge,
however much it may be boiled; when it is in season, its muscles are
firm, and boil white and curdy.

III. As food for invalids, white fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock,
coal-fish, and whiting, are the best; flat fish, as soles, skate,
turbot, and flounders, are also good.

IV. Salmon, mackerel, herrings, and trout soon spoil or decompose after
they are killed; therefore, to be in perfection, they should be prepared
for the table on the day they are caught. With flat fish, this is not of
such consequence, as they will keep longer. The turbot, for example, is
improved by being kept a day or two.


GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DRESSING FISH.

219. IN DRESSING FISH, of any kind, the first point to be attended to,
is to see that it be perfectly clean. It is a common error to wash it
too much; as by doing so the flavour is diminished. If the fish is to be
boiled, a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give
it firmness, after it is cleaned. Cod-fish, whiting, and haddock, are
far better if a little salted, and kept a day; and if the weather be not
very hot, they will be good for two days.

220. WHEN FISH IS CHEAP AND PLENTIFUL, and a larger quantity is
purchased than is immediately wanted, the overplus of such as will bear
it should be potted, or pickled, or salted, and hung up; or it may be
fried, that it may serve for stewing the next day. Fresh-water fish,
having frequently a muddy smell and taste, should be soaked in strong
salt and water, after it has been well cleaned. If of a sufficient size,
it may be scalded in salt and water, and afterwards dried and dressed.

221. FISH SHOULD BE PUT INTO COLD WATER, and set on the fire to do very
gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unless
the fishes are small, they should never be put into warm water; nor
should water, either hot or cold, be poured _on_ to the fish, as it is
liable to break the skin: if it should be necessary to add a little
water whilst the fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in gently at the
side of the vessel. The fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the fish
be ready, which may be known by its easily separating from the bone. It
should then be immediately taken out of the water, or it will become
woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to keep
hot for serving, and a clean cloth over the fish, to prevent its losing
its colour.

222. IN GARNISHING FISH, great attention is required, and plenty of
parsley, horseradish, and lemon should be used. If fried parsley be
used, it must be washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. When
the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediately from
the water, and instantly it will be green and crisp, and must be taken
up with a slice. When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more
appreciated than almost any other dish. The liver and roe, in some
instances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may be
distributed in the course of serving; but to each recipe will be
appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing.

223. IF FISH IS TO BE FRIED OR BROILED, it must be dried in a nice soft
cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. If for frying, brush it over
with egg, and sprinkle it with some fine crumbs of bread. If done a
second time with the egg and bread, the fish will look so much the
better. If required to be very nice, a sheet of white blotting-paper
must be placed to receive it, that it may be free from all grease. It
must also be of a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct.
Butter gives a bad colour; lard and clarified dripping are most
frequently used; but oil is the best, if the expense be no objection.
The fish should be put into the lard when boiling, and there should be a
sufficiency of this to cover it.

224. WHEN FISH IS BROILED, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on a
very clean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of
suet, to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over a very
clear fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that it may
not be scorched.

225. IN CHOOSING FISH, it is well to remember that it is possible it may
be _fresh_, and yet not _good_. Under the head of each particular fish
in this work, are appended rules for its choice and the months when it
is in season. Nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook than to
have the fish good; as if this important course in a dinner does not
give satisfaction, it is rarely that the repast goes off well.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER VIII.


FISH.

[_Nothing is more difficult than to give the average prices of Fish,
inasmuch as a few hours of bad weather at sea will, in the space of one
day, cause such a difference in its supply, that the same fish--a turbot
for instance--which may be bought to-day for six or seven shillings,
will, to-morrow, be, in the London markets, worth, perhaps, almost as
many pounds. The average costs, therefore, which will be found appended
to each recipe, must be understood as about the average price for the
different kinds of fish, when the market is supplied upon an average,
and when the various sorts are of an average size and quality._

GENERAL RULE IN CHOOSING FISH.--_A proof of freshness and goodness in
most fishes, is their being covered with scales; for, if deficient in
this respect, it is a sign of their being stale, or having been
ill-used._]

FRIED ANCHOVIES.

226. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of oil, 1/2 a glass of white wine,
sufficient flour to thicken; 12 anchovies.

_Mode_.--Mix the oil and wine together, with sufficient flour to make
them into a thickish paste; cleanse the anchovies, wipe them, dip them
in the paste, and fry of a nice brown colour.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 9d.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.

[Illustration: THE ANCHOVY.]

    THE ANCHOVY.--In his book of "British Fishes," Mr. Yarrell
    states that "the anchovy is a common fish in the Mediterranean,
    from Greece to Gibraltar, and was well known to the Greeks and
    Romans, by whom the liquor prepared from it, called _garum_, was
    in great estimation. Its extreme range is extended into the
    Black Sea. The fishing for them is carried on during the night,
    and lights are used with the nets. The anchovy is common on the
    coasts of Portugal, Spain, and France. It occurs, I have no
    doubt, at the Channel Islands, and has been taken on the
    Hampshire coast, and in the Bristol Channel." Other fish, of
    inferior quality, but resembling the real Gorgona anchovy, are
    frequently sold for it, and passed off as genuine.

ANCHOVY BUTTER OR PASTE.

227. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen anchovies, 1/2 lb. of fresh butter.

_Mode_.--Wash the anchovies thoroughly; bone and dry them, and pound
them in a mortar to a paste. Mix the butter gradually with them, and rub
the whole through a sieve. Put it by in small pots for use, and
carefully exclude the air with a bladder, as it soon changes the colour
of anchovies, besides spoiling them.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s.


POTTED ANCHOVIES.

POTTED ANCHOVIES are made in the same way, by adding pounded mace,
cayenne, and nutmeg to taste.


ANCHOVY TOAST.

228. INGREDIENTS.--Toast 2 or 3 slices of bread, or, if wanted very
savoury, fry them in clarified butter, and spread on them the paste, No.
227. Made mustard, or a few grains of cayenne, may be added to the paste
before laying it on the toast.

    ANCHOVY PASTE.--"When some delicate zest," says a work just
    issued on the adulterations of trade, "is required to make the
    plain English breakfast more palatable, many people are in the
    habit of indulging in what they imagine to be anchovies. These
    fish are preserved in a kind of pickling-bottle, carefully
    corked down, and surrounded by a red-looking liquor, resembling
    in appearance diluted clay. The price is moderate, one shilling
    only being demanded for the luxury. When these anchovies are
    what is termed potted, it implies that the fish have been
    pounded into the consistency of a paste, and then placed in flat
    pots, somewhat similar in shape to those used for pomatum. This
    paste is usually eaten spread upon toast, and is said to form an
    excellent _bonne bouche_, which enables gentlemen at
    wine-parties to enjoy their port with redoubled gusto.
    Unfortunately, in six cases out of ten, the only portion of
    these preserved delicacies, that contains anything indicative of
    anchovies, is the paper label pasted on the bottle or pot, on
    which the word itself is printed.... All the samples of anchovy
    paste, analyzed by different medical men, have been found to be
    highly and vividly coloured with very large quantities of bole
    Armenian." The anchovy itself, when imported, is of a dark dead
    colour, and it is to make it a bright "handsome-looking sauce"
    that this red earth is used.

BARBEL.

229. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of port wine, a saltspoonful of salt, 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a faggot of sweet herbs,
nutmeg and mace to taste, the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies; 1 or 2
barbels, according to size.

_Mode_--Boil the barbels in salt and water till done; pour off some of
the water, and, to the remainder, put the ingredients mentioned above.
Simmer gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and strain. Put in the fish;
heat it gradually; but do not let it boil, or it will be broken.

_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to November.

[Illustration: THE BARBEL.]

    THE BARBEL,--This fish takes its name from the barbs or wattels
    at its mouth; and, in England, is esteemed as one of the worst
    of the fresh-water fish. It was, however, formerly, if not now,
    a favourite with the Jews, excellent cookers of fish. Others
    would boil with it a piece of bacon, that it might have a
    relish. It is to be met with from two to three or four feet
    long, and is said to live to a great age. From Putney upwards,
    in the Thames, some are found of large size; but they are valued
    only as affording sport to the brethren of the angle.

BRILL.

230. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water; a little
vinegar.

_Mode_.--Clean the brill, cut off the fins, and rub it over with a
little lemon-juice, to preserve its whiteness. Set the fish in
sufficient cold water to cover it; throw in salt, in the above
proportions, and a little vinegar, and bring it gradually to boil;
simmer very gently till the fish is done, which will be in about 10
minutes; but the time for boiling, of course, depends entirely on the
size of the fish. Serve it on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon,
parsley, horseradish, and a little lobster coral sprinkled over the
fish. Send lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter to table with
it.

_Time_.--After the water boils, a small brill, 10 minutes; a large
brill, 15 to 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, from 4s. to 8s.

_Seasonable_ from August to April.

[Illustration: THE BRILL.]

    THE BRILL.--This fish resembles the sole, but is broader, and
    when large, is esteemed by many in a scarcely less degree than
    the turbot, whilst it is much cheaper. It is a fine fish, and is
    abundant in the London market.

TO CHOOSE BRILL.--The flesh of this fish, like that of turbot, should be
of a yellowish tint, and should be chosen on account of its thickness.
If the flesh has a bluish tint, it is not good.


CODFISH.

231. Cod may be boiled whole; but a large head and shoulders are quite
sufficient for a dish, and contain all that is usually helped, because,
when the thick part is done, the tail is insipid and overdone. The
latter, cut in slices, makes a very good dish for frying; or it may be
salted down and served with egg sauce and parsnips. Cod, when boiled
quite fresh, is watery; salting a little, renders it firmer.

[Illustration: THE COD.]

    THE COD TRIBE.--The Jugular, characterized by bony gills, and
    ventral fins before the pectoral ones, commences the second of
    the Linnaean orders of fishes, and is a numerous tribe,
    inhabiting only the depths of the ocean, and seldom visiting the
    fresh waters. They have a smooth head, and the gill membrane has
    seven rays. The body is oblong, and covered with deciduous
    scales. The fins are all inclosed in skin, whilst their rays are
    unarmed. The ventral fins are slender, and terminate in a point.
    Their habits are gregarious, and they feed on smaller fish and
    other marine animals.

COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.

232. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish; 5 oz. of salt to
each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over the
thick part and inside of the fish, 1 or 2 hours before dressing it, as
this very much improves the flavour. Lay it in the fish-kettle, with
sufficient cold water to cover it. Be very particular not to pour the
water on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just
simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring it in
at the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Add salt in the above
proportion, and bring it gradually to a boil. Skim very carefully, draw
it to the side of the fire, and let it gently simmer till done. Take it
out and drain it; serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon,
horseradish, the roe and liver. (_See_ Coloured Plate C.)

_Time_.--According to size, 1/2 an hour, more or less. _Average cost_,
from 3s. to 6s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

_Note_.--Oyster sauce and plain melted butter should be served with
this.

TO CHOOSE COD.--The cod should be chosen for the table when it is plump
and round near the tail, when the hollow behind the head is deep, and
when the sides are undulated as if they were ribbed. The glutinous parts
about the head lose their delicate flavour, after the fish has been
twenty-four hours out of the water. The great point by which the cod
should be judged is the firmness of its flesh; and, although the cod is
not firm when it is alive, its quality may be arrived at by pressing the
finger into the flesh. If this rises immediately, the fish is good; if
not, it is stale. Another sign of its goodness is, if the fish, when it
is cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, like the silver side of a round of
beef. When this is the case, the flesh will be firm when cooked.
Stiffness in a cod, or in any other fish, is a sure sign of freshness,
though not always of quality. Sometimes, codfish, though exhibiting
signs of rough usage, will eat much better than those with red gills, so
strongly recommended by many cookery-books. This appearance is generally
caused by the fish having been knocked about at sea, in the well-boats,
in which they are conveyed from the fishing-grounds to market.


SALT COD, COMMONLY CALLED "SALT-FISH."

233. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish.

_Mode_.--Wash the fish, and lay it all night in water, with a 1/4 pint
of vinegar. When thoroughly soaked, take it out, see that it is
perfectly clean, and put it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold
water to cover it. Heat it gradually, but do not let it boil much, or
the fish will be hard. Skim well, and when done, drain the fish and put
it on a napkin garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings.

_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ in the spring.

_Sufficient_ for each person, 1/4 lb.

_Note_.--Serve with egg sauce and parsnips. This is an especial dish on
Ash Wednesday.

    PRESERVING COD.--Immediately as the cod are caught, their heads
    are cut off. They are then opened, cleaned, and salted, when
    they are stowed away in the hold of the vessel, in beds of five
    or six yards square, head to tail, with a layer of salt to each
    layer of fish. When they have lain in this state three or four
    days, in order that the water may drain from them, they are
    shifted into a different part of the vessel, and again salted.
    Here they remain till the vessel is loaded, when they are
    sometimes cut into thick pieces and packed in barrels for the
    greater convenience of carriage.

COD SOUNDS.

Should be well soaked in salt and water, and thoroughly washed before
dressing them. They are considered a great delicacy, and may either be
broiled, fried, or boiled: if they are boiled, mix a little milk with
the water.


COD SOUNDS, EN POULE.

234. INGREDIENTS.--For forcemeat, 12 chopped oysters, 3 chopped
anchovies, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs; seasoning
of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste; 4 cod sounds.

_Mode_.--Make the forcemeat by mixing the ingredients well together.
Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for 1/2 an hour; take
them out and let them cool. Cover each with a layer of forcemeat, roll
them up in a nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with lard, dredge with
flour, and cook them gently before the fire in a Dutch oven.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from November to March. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

    THE SOUNDS IN CODFISH.--These are the air or swimming bladders,
    by means of which the fishes are enabled to ascend or descend in
    the water. In the Newfoundland fishery they are taken out
    previous to incipient putrefaction, washed from their slime and
    salted for exportation. The tongues are also cured and packed up
    in barrels; whilst, from the livers, considerable quantities of
    oil are extracted, this oil having been found possessed of the
    most nourishing properties, and particularly beneficial in cases
    of pulmonary affections.

COD PIE.

(_Economical_.)

I.

235. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of cold cod, 12 oysters, sufficient
melted butter to moisten it; mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish.

_Mode_.--Flake the fish from the bone, and carefully take away all the
skin. Lay it in a pie-dish, pour over the melted butter and oysters (or
oyster sauce, if there is any left), and cover with mashed potatoes.
Bake for 1/2 an hour, and send to table of a nice brown colour.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.


II.

236. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of cod; pepper and salt to taste; 1/2 a
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 large blade of pounded mace, 2 oz. of
butter, 1/2 pint of stock No. 107, a paste crust (_see_ Pastry). For
sauce, 1 tablespoonful of stock, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, thickening
of flour or butter; lemon-peel chopped very fine to taste; 12 oysters.

_Mode_.--Lay the cod in salt for 4 hours, then wash it and place it in a
dish; season, and add the butter and stock; cover with the crust, and
bake for 1 hour, or rather more. Now make the sauce, by mixing the
ingredients named above; give it one boil, and pour it into the pie by a
hole made at the top of the crust, which can easily be covered by a
small piece of pastry cut and baked in any fanciful shape--such as a
leaf, or otherwise.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with fresh fish, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Note_.--The remains of cold fish may be used for this pie.


CURRIED COD.

237. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of large cod, or the remains of any cold
fish; 3 oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, a teacupful of white stock,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 small teaspoonful of curry-powder,
1/4 pint of cream, salt and cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Flake the fish, and fry it of a nice brown colour with the
butter and onions; put this in a stewpan, add the stock and thickening,
and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the curry-powder into the cream; put it,
with the seasoning, to the other ingredients; give one boil, and serve.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, with fresh fish, 3s.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

    THE FOOD OF THE COD.--This chiefly consists of the smaller
    species of the scaly tribes, shell-fish, crabs, and worms. Their
    voracity is very great, and they will bite at any small body
    they see moved by the water, even stones and pebbles, which are
    frequently found in their stomachs. They sometimes attain a
    great size, but their usual weight is from 14 to 40 lbs.

COD A LA CREME.

238. INGREDIENTS.--1 large slice of cod, 1 oz. of butter, 1 chopped
shalot, a little minced parsley, 1/4 teacupful of white stock, 1/4 pint
of milk or cream, flour to thicken, cayenne and lemon-juice to taste,
1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

_Mode_.--Boil the cod, and while hot, break it into flakes; put the
butter, shalot, parsley, and stock into a stewpan, and let them boil for
5 minutes. Stir in sufficient flour to thicken, and pour to it the milk
or cream. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cayenne and sugar, and, when
liked, a little lemon-juice. Put the fish in the sauce to warm
gradually, but do not let it boil. Serve in a dish garnished with
croûtons.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with cream, 2s.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

_Note_.--The remains of fish from the preceding day answer very well for
this dish.


COD A LA BECHAMEL.

239. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of cold cod, 4 tablespoonfuls of béchamel
(_see_ Sauces), 2 oz. butter; seasoning to taste of pepper and salt;
fried bread, a few bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Flake the cod carefully, leaving out all skin and bone; put the
béchamel in a stewpan with the butter, and stir it over the fire till
the latter is melted; add seasoning, put in the fish, and mix it well
with the sauce. Make a border of fried bread round the dish, lay in the
fish, sprinkle over with bread crumbs, and baste with butter. Brown
either before the fire or with a salamander, and garnish with toasted
bread cut in fanciful shapes.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fish, 6d.

    THE HABITAT OF THE COD.--This fish is found only in the seas of
    the northern parts of the world, between the latitudes of 45°
    and 66°. Its great rendezvous are the sandbanks of Newfoundland,
    Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and New England. These places are its
    favourite resorts; for there it is able to obtain great
    quantities of worms, a food peculiarly grateful to it. Another
    cause of its attachment to these places has been said to be on
    account of the vicinity to the Polar seas, where it returns to
    spawn. Few are taken north of Iceland, and the shoals never
    reach so far south as the Straits of Gibraltar. Many are taken
    on the coasts of Norway, in the Baltic, and off the Orkneys,
    which, prior to the discovery of Newfoundland, formed one of the
    principal fisheries. The London market is supplied by those
    taken between the Dogger Bank, the Well Bank, and Cromer, on the
    east coast of England.

COD A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.

240. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of cod, 1/4 lb. of butter, a little chopped
shalot and parsley; pepper to taste, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
or rather less, when the flavour is not liked; the juice of 1/4 lemon.

_Mode_.--Boil the cod, and either leave it whole, or, what is still
better, flake it from the bone, and take off the skin. Put it into a
stewpan with the butter, parsley, shalot, pepper, and nutmeg. Melt the
butter gradually, and be very careful that it does not become like oil.
When all is well mixed and thoroughly hot, add the lemon-juice, and
serve.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.; with remains of cold fish,
5d.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Note_.--Cod that has been left will do for this.

    THE SEASON FOR FISHING COD.--The best season for catching cod is
    from the beginning of February to the end of April; and although
    each fisherman engaged in taking them, catches no more than one
    at a time, an expert hand will sometimes take four hundred in a
    day. The employment is excessively fatiguing, from the weight of
    the fish as well as from the coldness of the climate.

COD A L'ITALIENNE.

241. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of crimped cod, 1 shalot, 1 slice of ham
minced very fine, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; when liked, 1/2
teacupful of cream; salt to taste; a few drops of garlic vinegar, a
little lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

_Mode_.--Chop the shalots, mince the ham very fine, pour on the stock,
and simmer for 15 minutes. If the colour should not be good, add cream
in the above proportion, and strain it through a fine sieve; season it,
and put in the vinegar, lemon-juice, and sugar. Now boil the cod, take
out the middle bone, and skin it; put it on the dish without breaking,
and pour the sauce over it.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d., with fresh fish.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

    THE FECUNDITY OF THE COD.--In our preceding remarks on the
    natural history of fishes, we have spoken of the amazing
    fruitfulness of this fish; but in this we see one more instance
    of the wise provision which Nature has made for supplying the
    wants of man. So extensive has been the consumption of this
    fish, that it is surprising that it has not long ago become
    extinct; which would certainly have been the case, had it not
    been for its wonderful powers of reproduction. "So early as
    1368," says Dr. Cloquet, "the inhabitants of Amsterdam had
    dispatched fishermen to the coast of Sweden; and in the first
    quarter of 1792, from the ports of France only, 210 vessels went
    out to the cod-fisheries. Every year, however, upwards of 10,000
    vessels, of all nations, are employed in this trade, and bring
    into the commercial world more than 40,000,000 of salted and
    dried cod. If we add to this immense number, the havoc made
    among the legions of cod by the larger scaly tribes of the great
    deep, and take into account the destruction to which the young
    are exposed by sea-fowls and other inhabitants of the seas,
    besides the myriads of their eggs destroyed by accident, it
    becomes a miracle to find that such mighty multitudes of them
    are still in existence, and ready to continue the exhaustless
    supply. Yet it ceases to excite our wonder when we remember that
    the female can every year give birth to more than 9,000,000 at a
    time."

BAKED CARP.

242. INGREDIENTS--1 carp, forcemeat, bread crumbs, 1 oz. butter, 1/2
pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 6 anchovies, 2 onions
sliced, 1 bay-leaf, a faggot of sweet herbs, flour to thicken, the juice
of 1 lemon; cayenne and salt to taste; 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered
sugar.

_Mode_.--Stuff the carp with a delicate forcemeat, after thoroughly
cleansing it, and sew it up to prevent the stuffing from falling out.
Rub it over with an egg, and sprinkle it with bread crumbs, lay it in a
deep earthen dish, and drop the butter, oiled, over the bread crumbs.
Add the stock, onions, bay-leaf, herbs, wine, and anchovies, and bake
for 1 hour. Put 1 oz. of butter into a stewpan, melt it, and dredge in
sufficient flour to dry it up; put in the strained liquor from the carp,
stir frequently, and when it has boiled, add the lemon-juice and
seasoning. Serve the carp on a dish garnished with parsley and cut
lemon, and the sauce in a boat.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_. Seldom bought.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Sufficient_ for 1 or 2 persons.

[Illustration: THE CARP.]

    THE CARP.--This species of fish inhabit the fresh waters, where
    they feed on worms, insects, aquatic plants, small fish, clay,
    or mould. Some of them are migratory. They have very small
    mouths and no teeth, and the gill membrane has three rays. The
    body is smooth, and generally whitish. The carp both grows and
    increases very fast, and is accounted the most valuable of all
    fish for the stocking of ponds. It has been pronounced the queen
    of river-fish, and was first introduced to this country about
    three hundred years ago. Of its sound, or air-bladder, a kind of
    glue is made, and a green paint of its gall.

STEWED CARP.

243. INGREDIENTS.--1 carp, salt, stock No. 105, 2 onions, 6 cloves, 12
peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 1/4 pint of port wine, the juice of 1/2
lemon, cayenne and salt to taste, a faggot of savoury herbs.

_Mode_.--Scale the fish, clean it nicely, and, if very large, divide it;
lay it in the stewpan, after having rubbed a little salt on it, and put
in sufficient stock to cover it; add the herbs, onions, and spices, and
stew gently for 1 hour, or rather more, should it be very large. Dish up
the fish with great care, strain the liquor, and add to it the port
wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; give one boil, pour it over the fish,
and serve.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_. Seldom bought.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Sufficient_ for 1 or 2 persons.

_Note_.--This fish can be boiled plain, and served with parsley and
butter. Chub and Char may be cooked in the same manner as the above, as
also Dace and Roach.

    THE AGE OF CARP.--This fish has been found to live 150 years.
    The pond in the garden of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, contained
    one that had lived there 70 years, and Gesner mentions an
    instance of one 100 years old. They are, besides, capable of
    being tamed. Dr. Smith, in his "Tour on the Continent," says, in
    reference to the prince of Condé's seat at Chantilly, "The most
    pleasing things about it were the immense shoals of very large
    carp, silvered over with age, like silver-fish, and perfectly
    tame; so that, when any passengers approached their watery
    habitation, they used to come to the shore in such numbers as to
    heave each other out of the water, begging for bread, of which a
    quantity was always kept at hand, on purpose to feed them. They
    would even allow themselves to be handled."

[Illustration: THE CHUB.]

[Illustration: THE CHAR.]

    THE CHUB.--This fish takes its name from its head, not only in
    England, but in other countries. It is a river-fish, and
    resembles the carp, but is somewhat longer. Its flesh is not in
    much esteem, being coarse, and, when out of season, full of
    small hairy bones. The head and throat are the best parts. The
    roe is also good.

    THE CHAR.--This is one of the most delicious of fish, being
    esteemed by some superior to the salmon. It is an inhabitant of
    the deep lakes of mountainous countries. Its flesh is rich and
    red, and full of fat. The largest and best kind is found in the
    lakes of Westmoreland, and, as it is considered a rarity, it is
    often potted and preserved.

    THE DACE, OR DARE.--This fish is gregarious, and is seldom above
    ten inches long; although, according to Linnaeus, it grows a
    foot and a half in length. Its haunts are in deep water, near
    piles of bridges, where the stream is gentle, over gravelly,
    sandy, or clayey bottoms; deep holes that are shaded, water-lily
    leaves, and under the foam caused by an eddy. In the warm months
    they are to be found in shoals on the shallows near to streams.
    They are in season about the end of April, and gradually improve
    till February, when they attain their highest condition. In that
    month, when just taken, scotched (crimped), and broiled, they
    are said to be more palatable than a fresh herring.

    THE ROACH.--This fish is found throughout Europe, and the
    western parts of Asia, in deep still rivers, of which it is an
    inhabitant. It is rarely more than a pound and a half in weight,
    and is in season from September till March. It is plentiful in
    England, and the finest are caught in the Thames. The proverb,
    "as sound as a roach," is derived from the French name of this
    fish being _roche_, which also means rock.

[Illustration: THE DACE.]

[Illustration: THE ROACH.]

TO DRESS CRAB.

244. INGREDIENTS.--1 crab, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 ditto of oil;
salt, white pepper, and cayenne, to taste.

_Mode_.--Empty the shells, and thoroughly mix the meat with the above
ingredients, and put it in the large shell. Garnish with slices of cut
lemon and parsley. The quantity of oil may be increased when it is much
liked. (See Coloured Plate I.)

_Average cost_, from 10d. to 2s.

_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

TO CHOOSE CRAB.--The middle-sized crab is the best; and the crab, like
the lobster, should be judged by its weight; for if light, it is watery.


HOT CRAB.

245. INGREDIENTS.--1 crab, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 3 oz. of
butter, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

_Mode_.--After having boiled the crab, pick the meat out from the
shells, and mix with it the nutmeg and seasoning. Cut up the butter in
small pieces, and add the bread crumbs and vinegar. Mix altogether, put
the whole in the large shell, and brown before the fire or with a
salamander.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, from 10d. to 2s.

_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

[Illustration: THE CRAB.]

    THE CRAB TRIBE.--The whole of this tribe of animals have the
    body covered with a hard and strong shell, and they live chiefly
    in the sea. Some, however, inhabit fresh waters, and a few live
    upon land. They feed variously, on aquatic or marine plants,
    small fish, molluscae, or dead bodies. The _black-clawed_
    species is found on the rocky coasts of both Europe and India,
    and is the same that is introduced to our tables, being much
    more highly esteemed as a food than many others of the tribe.
    The most remarkable feature in their history, is the changing of
    their shells, and the reproduction of their broken claws. The
    former occurs once a year, usually between Christmas and Easter,
    when the crabs retire to cavities in the rocks, or conceal
    themselves under great stones. Fishermen say that they will live
    confined in a pot or basket for several months together, without
    any other food than what is collected from the sea-water; and
    that, even in this situation, they will not decrease in weight.
    The _hermit_ crab is another of the species, and has the
    peculiarity of taking possession of the deserted shell of some
    other animal, as it has none of its own. This circumstance was
    known to the ancients, and is alluded to in the following lines
    from Oppian:--
      The hermit fish, unarm'd by Nature, left
      Helpless and weak, grow strong by harmless theft.
      Fearful they stroll, and look with panting wish
      For the cast crust of some new-cover'd fish;
      Or such as empty lie, and deck the shore,
      Whose first and rightful owners are no more.
      They make glad seizure of the vacant room,
      And count the borrow'd shell their native home;
      Screw their soft limbs to fit the winding case,
      And boldly herd with the crustaceous race.

CRAYFISH.

246. Crayfish should be thrown into boiling water, to which has been
added a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar. When done, which
will be in 1/4 hour, take them out and drain them. Let them cool,
arrange them on a napkin, and garnish with plenty of double parsley.

_Note_.--This fish is frequently used for garnishing boiled turkey,
boiled fowl, calf's head, turbot, and all kinds of boiled fish.


POTTED CRAYFISH.

247. INGREDIENTS.--100 crayfish; pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste,
2 oz. butter.

_Mode_.--Boil the fish in salt and water; pick out all the meat and
pound it in a mortar to a paste. Whilst pounding, add the butter
gradually, and mix in the spice and seasoning. Put it in small pots, and
pour over it clarified butter, carefully excluding the air.

_Time_.--15 minutes to boil the crayfish. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ all the year.


JOHN DORY.

248. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--This fish, which is esteemed by most people a great delicacy,
is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in firmness,
but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly and cut off the fins; lay it
in a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, and add salt in the above
proportion. Bring it gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for 1/4
hour, or rather longer, should the fish be very large. Serve on a hot
napkin, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster, anchovy, or
shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it.

_Time_.--After the water boils, 1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to size.

_Average cost_, 3s. to 5s. _Seasonable_ all the year, but best from
September to January.

_Note_.--Small John Dorie are very good, baked.

[Illustration: THE JOHN DORY.]

    THE DORU, or JOHN DORY.--This fish is of a yellowish golden
    colour, and is, in general, rare, although it is sometimes taken
    in abundance on the Devon and Cornish coasts. It is highly
    esteemed for the table, and its flesh, when dressed, is of a
    beautiful clear white. When fresh caught, it is tough, and,
    being a ground fish, it is not the worse for being kept two, or
    even three days before it is cooked.

BOILED EELS.


249. INGREDIENTS.--4 small eels, sufficient water to cover them; a large
bunch of parsley.

_Mode_.--Choose small eels for boiling; put them in a stewpan with the
parsley, and just sufficient water to cover them; simmer till tender.
Take them out, pour a little parsley and butter over them, and serve
some in a tureen.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from June to March.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

[Illustration: THE EEL.]

    THE EEL TRIBE.--The Apodal, or bony-gilled and ventral-finned
    fish, of which the eel forms the first Linnaean tribe, in their
    general aspect and manners, approach, in some instances, very
    nearly to serpents. They have a smooth head and slippery skin,
    are in general naked, or covered with such small, soft, and
    distant scales, as are scarcely visible. Their bodies are long
    and slender, and they are supposed to subsist entirely on animal
    substances. There are about nine species of them, mostly found
    in the seas. One of them frequents our fresh waters, and three
    of the others occasionally pay a visit to our shores.

STEWED EELS.

I.

250. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of eels, 1 pint of rich strong stock, No. 104,
1 onion, 3 cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, 1 glass of port or Madeira, 3
tablespoonfuls of cream; thickening of flour; cayenne and lemon-juice to
taste.

_Mode_.--Wash and skin the eels, and cut them into pieces about 3 inches
long; pepper and salt them, and lay them in a stewpan; pour over the
stock, add the onion stuck with cloves, the lemon-peel, and the wine.
Stew gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and lift them carefully on a
dish, which keep hot. Strain the gravy, stir to the cream sufficient
flour to thicken; mix altogether, boil for 2 minutes, and add the
cayenne and lemon-juice; pour over the eels and serve.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 3d.

_Seasonable_ from June to March.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

    THE COMMON EEL.--This fish is known frequently to quit its
    native element, and to set off on a wandering expedition in the
    night, or just about the close of clay, over the meadows, in
    search of snails and other prey. It also, sometimes, betakes
    itself to isolated ponds, apparently for no other pleasure than
    that which may be supposed to be found in a change of
    habitation. This, of course, accounts for eels being found in
    waters which were never suspected to contain them. This rambling
    disposition in the eel has been long known to naturalists, and,
    from the following lines, it seems to have been known to the
    ancients:--

      "Thus the mail'd tortoise, and the wand'ring; eel,
      Oft to the neighbouring beach will silent steal."

II.

251. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of middling-sized eels, 1 pint of medium
stock, No. 105, 1/4 pint of port wine; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste;
1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, the juice of 1/2 a lemon.

_Mode_.--Skin, wash, and clean the eels thoroughly; cut them into pieces
3 inches long, and put them into strong salt and water for 1 hour; dry
them well with a cloth, and fry them brown. Put the stock on with the
heads and tails of the eels, and simmer for 1/2 hour; strain it, and add
all the other ingredients. Put in the eels, and stew gently for 1/2
hour, when serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ from June to March.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.


FRIED EELS.

252. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of eels, 1 egg, a few bread crumbs, hot lard.

_Mode_.--Wash the eels, cut them into pieces 3 inches long, trim and
wipe them very dry; dredge with flour, rub them over with egg, and cover
with bread crumbs; fry of a nice brown in hot lard. If the eels are
small, curl them round, instead of cutting them up. Garnish with fried
parsley.

_Time_.--20 minutes, or rather less. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from June to March.

_Note_.--Garfish may be dressed like eels, and either broiled or baked.

    THE PRODUCTIVENESS OF THE EEL.--"Having occasion," says Dr.
    Anderson, in the _Bee_, "to be once on a visit to a friend's
    house on Dee-side, in Aberdeenshire, I frequently delighted to
    walk by the banks of the river. I, one day, observed something
    like a black string moving along the edge of the water where it
    was quite shallow. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that
    this was a shoal of young eels, so closely joined together as to
    appear, on a superficial view, on continued body, moving briskly
    up against the stream. To avoid the retardment they experienced
    from the force of the current, they kept close along the water's
    edge the whole of the way, following all the bendings and
    sinuosities of the river. Where they were embayed, and in still
    water, the shoal dilated in breadth, so as to be sometimes
    nearly a foot broad; but when they turned a cape, where the
    current was strong, they were forced to occupy less space and
    press close to the shore, struggling very hard till they passed
    it. This shoal continued to move on, night and day without
    interruption for several weeks. Their progress might be at the
    rate of about a mile an hour. It was easy to catch the animals,
    though they were very active and nimble. They were eels
    perfectly well formed in every respect, but not exceeding two
    inches in length. I conceive that the shoal did not contain, on
    an average, less than from twelve to twenty in breadth; so that
    the number that passed, on the whole, must have been very great.
    Whence they came or whither they went, I know not; but the place
    where I saw this, was six miles from the sea."

EEL PIE.

253. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of eels, a little chopped parsley, 1 shalot;
grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste; the juice of 1/2 a lemon, small
quantity of forcemeat, 1/4 pint of béchamel (see Sauces); puff paste.

_Mode_.--Skin and wash the eels, cut them into pieces 2 inches long, and
line the bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat. Put in the eels, and
sprinkle them with the parsley, shalots, nutmeg, seasoning, and
lemon-juice, and cover with puff-paste. Bake for 1 hour, or rather more;
make the béchamel hot, and pour it into the pie.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.


COLLARED EEL.

254. INGREDIENTS.--1 large eel; pepper and salt to taste; 2 blades of
mace, 2 cloves, a little allspice very finely pounded, 6 leaves of sage,
and a small bunch of herbs minced very small.

_Mode_.--Bone the eel and skin it; split it, and sprinkle it over with
the ingredients, taking care that the spices are very finely pounded,
and the herbs chopped very small. Roll it up and bind with a broad piece
of tape, and boil it in water, mixed with a little salt and vinegar,
till tender. It may either be served whole or cut in slices; and when
cold, the eel should be kept in the liquor it was boiled in, but with a
little more vinegar put to it.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

    HAUNTS OF THE EEL.--These are usually in mud, among weeds, under
    roots or stumps of trees, or in holes in the banks or the
    bottoms of rivers. Here they often grow to an enormous size,
    sometimes weighing as much as fifteen or sixteen pounds. They
    seldom come forth from their hiding-places except in the night;
    and, in winter, bury themselves deep in the mud, on account of
    their great susceptibility of cold.

EELS A LA TARTARE.

255. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of eels, 1 carrot, 1 onion, a little flour, 1
glass of sherry; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; bread crumbs, 1 egg,
2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; cut up the carrot
and onion, and stir them over the fire for 5 minutes; dredge in a little
flour, add the wine and seasoning, and boil for 1/2 an hour. Skin and
wash the eels, cut them into pieces, put them to the other ingredients,
and simmer till tender. When they are done, take them out, let them get
cold, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry them of a nice
brown. Put them on a dish, pour sauce piquante over, and serve them hot.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d., exclusive of the sauce
piquante.

_Seasonable_ from August to March. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

    VORACITY OF THE EEL.--We find in a note upon Isaac Walton, by
    Sir John Hawkins, that he knew of eels, when kept in ponds,
    frequently destroying ducks. From a canal near his house at
    Twickenham he himself missed many young ducks; and on draining,
    in order to clean it, great numbers of large eels were caught in
    the mud. When some of these were opened, there were found in
    their stomachs the undigested heads of the quacking tribe which
    had become their victims.

EELS EN MATELOTE.

256. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 young onions, a few mushrooms, when
obtainable; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 laurel-leaf, 1/2 pint
of port wine, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105; butter and flour to
thicken; 2 lbs. of eels.

_Mode_.--Rub the stewpan with butter, dredge in a little flour, add the
onions cut very small, slightly brown them, and put in all the other
ingredients. Wash, and cut up the eels into pieces 3 inches long; put
them in the stewpan, and simmer for 1/2 hour. Make round the dish, a
border of croutons, or pieces of toasted bread; arrange the eels in a
pyramid in the centre, and pour over the sauce. Serve very hot.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 9d. for this quantity.

_Seasonable_ from August to March. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

    TENACITY OF LIFE IN THE EEL.--There is no fish so tenacious of
    life as this. After it is skinned and cut in pieces, the parts
    will continue to move for a considerable time, and no fish will
    live so long out of water.

[Illustration: THE LAMPREY.]

    THE LAMPREY.--With the Romans, this fish occupied a respectable
    rank among the piscine tribes, and in Britain it has at various
    periods stood high in public favour. It was the cause of the
    death of Henry I. of England, who ate so much of them, that it
    brought on an attack of indigestion, which carried him off. It
    is an inhabitant of the sea, ascending rivers, principally about
    the end of winter, and, after passing a few months in fresh
    water, returning again to its oceanic residence. It is most in
    season in March, April, and May, but is, by some, regarded as an
    unwholesome food, although looked on by others as a great
    delicacy. They are dressed as eels.

FISH AND OYSTER PIE.

257. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of cold fish, such as cod or haddock; 2
dozen oysters, pepper and salt to taste, bread crumbs sufficient for the
quantity of fish; 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley.

_Mode_.--Clear the fish from the bones, and put a layer of it in a
pie-dish, which sprinkle with pepper and salt; then a layer of bread
crumbs, oysters, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Repeat this till the dish
is quite full. You may form a covering either of bread crumbs, which
should be browned, or puff-paste, which should be cut into long strips,
and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a line of the paste first
laid round the edge. Before putting on the top, pour in some made melted
butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, and bake.

_Time_.--If made of cooked fish, 1/4 hour; if made of fresh fish and
puff-paste, 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Note_.--A nice little dish may be made by flaking any cold fish, adding
a few oysters, seasoning with pepper and salt, and covering with mashed
potatoes; 1/4 hour will bake it.


FISH CAKE.

258. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of any cold fish, 1 onion, 1 faggot of
sweet herbs; salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, equal quantities
of bread crumbs and cold potatoes, 1/2 teaspoonful of parsley, 1 egg,
bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the bones of the fish, which latter put,
with the head and fins, into a stewpan with the water; add pepper and
salt, the onion and herbs, and stew slowly for gravy about 2 hours; chop
the fish fine, and mix it well with bread crumbs and cold potatoes,
adding the parsley and seasoning; make the whole into a cake with the
white of an egg, brush it over with egg, cover with bread crumbs, and
fry of a light brown; strain the gravy, pour it over, and stew gently
for 1/4 hour, stirring it carefully once or twice. Serve hot, and
garnish with slices of lemon and parsley.

_Time_--1/2 hour, after the gravy is made.


BOILED FLOUNDERS.

259. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the flounders, salt in the
proportion of 6 oz. to each gallon, a little vinegar.

_Mode_.--Pat on a kettle with enough water to cover the flounders, lay
in the fish, add salt and vinegar in the above proportions, and when it
boils, simmer very gently for 5 minutes. They must not boil fast, or
they will break. Serve with plain melted butter, or parsley and butter.

_Time_.--After the water boils, 5 minutes.

_Average cost_, 3d. each.

_Seasonable_ from August to November.

[Illustration: FLOUNDERS.]

    THE FLOUNDER.--This comes under the tribe usually denominated
    Flat-fish, and is generally held in the smallest estimation of
    any among them. It is an inhabitant of both the seas and the
    rivers, while it thrives in ponds. On the English coasts it is
    very abundant, and the London market consumes it in large
    quantities. It is considered easy of digestion, and the Thames
    flounder is esteemed a delicate fish.

FRIED FLOUNDERS.

260. INGREDIENTS.--Flounders, egg, and bread crumbs; boiling lard.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish, and, two hours before they are wanted, rub
them inside and out with salt, to render them firm; wash and wipe them
very dry, dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs; fry
them in boiling lard, dish on a hot napkin, and garnish with crisped
parsley.

_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size.

_Average cost_, 3d. each.

_Seasonable_ from August to November.

_Sufficient_, 1 for each person.


GUDGEONS.

261. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs sufficient for the quantity of
fish; hot lard.

_Mode_.--Do not scrape off the scales, but take out the gills and
inside, and cleanse thoroughly; wipe them dry, flour and dip them into
egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs. Fry of a nice brown.

_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes.

_Average cost_. Seldom bought.

_Seasonable_ from March to July.

_Sufficient_, 3 for each person.

[Illustration: THE GUDGEON.]

    THE GUDGEON.--This is a fresh-water fish, belonging to the carp
    genus, and is found in placid streams and lakes. It was highly
    esteemed by the Greeks, and was, at the beginning of supper,
    served fried at Rome. It abounds both in France and Germany; and
    is both excellent and numerous in some of the rivers of England.
    Its flesh is firm, well-flavoured, and easily digested.

GURNET, or GURNARD.

262. INGREDIENTS.--1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; have ready
some boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; put the fish in,
and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour. Parsley and butter, or anchovy
sauce, should be served with it.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_. Seldom bought.

_Seasonable_ from October to March, but in perfection in October.

_Sufficient_, a middling sized one for 2 persons.

_Note_.--This fish is frequently stuffed with forcemeat and baked.

[Illustration: THE GURNET.]

    THE GURNET.-"If I be not ashamed of my soldiers, I am a souced
    gurnet," says Falstaff; which shows that this fish has been long
    known in England. It is very common on the British coasts, and
    is an excellent fish as food.

BAKED HADDOCKS.

263. INGREDIENTS.--A nice forcemeat (_see_ Forcemeats), butter to taste,
egg and bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Scale and clean the fish, without cutting it open much; put in
a nice delicate forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it over with egg,
sprinkle over bread crumbs, and baste frequently with butter. Garnish
with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with a nice brown gravy, plain
melted butter, or anchovy sauce. The egg and bread crumbs can be
omitted, and pieces of butter placed over the fish.

_Time_.--Large haddock, 3/4 hour; moderate size, 1/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ from August to February.

_Average cost_, from 9d. upwards.

_Note_.--Haddocks may be filleted, rubbed over with egg and bread
crumbs, and fried a nice brown; garnish with crisped parsley.

[Illustration: THE HADDOCK.]

    THE HADDOCK.--This fish migrates in immense shoals, and arrives
    on the Yorkshire coast about the middle of winter. It is an
    inhabitant of the northern seas of Europe, but does not enter
    the Baltic, and is not known in the Mediterranean. On each side
    of the body, just beyond the gills, it has a dark spot, which
    superstition asserts to be the impressions of the finger and
    thumb of St. Peter, when taking the tribute money out of a fish
    of this species.

BOILED HADDOCK.

264. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish; 1/4 lb. of salt
to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Scrape the fish, take out the inside, wash it thoroughly, and
lay it in a kettle, with enough water to cover it and salt in the above
proportion. Simmer gently from 15 to 20 minutes, or rather more, should
the fish be very large. For small haddocks, fasten the tails in their
mouths, and put them into boiling water. 10 to 15 minutes will cook
them. Serve with plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce.

_Time_.--Large haddock, 1/2 hour; small, 1/4 hour, or rather less.

_Average cost_, from 9d. upwards.

_Seasonable_ from August to February.

    WEIGHT OF THE HADDOCK.--The haddock seldom grows to any great
    size. In general, they do not weigh more than two or three
    pounds, or exceed ten or twelve inches in size. Such are
    esteemed very delicate eating; but they have been caught three
    feet long, when their flesh is coarse.

DRIED HADDOCK.

I.

265. Dried haddock should be gradually warmed through, either before or
over a nice clear fire. Hub a little piece of butter over, just before
sending it to table.


II.

266. INGREDIENTS.--1 large thick haddock, 2 bay-leaves, 1 small bunch of
savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little butter and pepper;
boiling water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the haddock into square pieces, make a basin hot by
means of hot water, which pour out. Lay in the fish, with the bay-leaves
and herbs; cover with boiling water; put a plate over to keep in the
steam, and let it remain for 10 minutes. Take out the slices, put them
in a hot dish, rub over with butter and pepper, and serve.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Seasonable_ at any time, but best in winter.

    THE FINNAN HADDOCK.--This is the common haddock cured and dried,
    and takes its name from the fishing-village of Findhorn, near
    Aberdeen, in Scotland, where the art has long attained to
    perfection. The haddocks are there hung up for a day or two in
    the smoke of peat, when they are ready for cooking, and are
    esteemed, by the Scotch, a great delicacy. In London, an
    imitation of them is made by washing the fish over with
    pyroligneous acid, and hanging it up in a dry place for a few
    days.

RED HERRINGS, or YARMOUTH BLOATERS.

267. The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin across
the fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the fire,
and will be far better than when cut open. The hard roe makes a nice
relish by pounding it in a mortar, with a little anchovy, and spreading
it on toast. If very dry, soak in warm water 1 hour before dressing.

    THE RED HERRING.--_Red_ herrings lie twenty-four hours in the
    brine, when they are taken out and hung up in a smoking-house
    formed to receive them. A brushwood fire is then kindled beneath
    them, and when they are sufficiently smoked and dried, they are
    put into barrels for carriage.

BAKED WHITE HERRINGS.

268. INGREDIENTS.--12 herrings, 4 bay-leaves, 12 cloves, 12 allspice, 2
small blades of mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, sufficient
vinegar to fill up the dish.

_Mode_.--Take the herrings, cut off the heads, and gut them. Put them in
a pie-dish, heads and tails alternately, and, between each layer,
sprinkle over the above ingredients. Cover the fish with the vinegar,
and bake for 1/2 hour, but do not use it till quite cold. The herrings
may be cut down the front, the backbone taken out, and closed again.
Sprats done in this way are very delicious.

_Time_.--1/2 an hour.

_Average cost_, 1d. each.

TO CHOOSE THE HERRING.--The more scales this fish has, the surer the
sign of its freshness. It should also have a bright and silvery look;
but if red about the head, it is a sign that it has been dead for some
time.

[Illustration: THE HERRING.]

    THE HERRING.--The herring tribe are found in the greatest
    abundance in the highest northern latitudes, where they find a
    quiet retreat, and security from their numerous enemies. Here
    they multiply beyond expression, and, in shoals, come forth from
    their icy region to visit other portions of the great deep. In
    June they are found about Shetland, whence they proceed down to
    the Orkneys, where they divide, and surround the islands of
    Great Britain and Ireland. The principal British
    herring-fisheries are off the Scotch and Norfolk coasts; and the
    fishing is always carried on by means of nets, which are usually
    laid at night; for, if stretched by day, they are supposed to
    frighten the fish away. The moment the herring is taken out of
    the water it dies. Hence the origin of the common saying, "dead
    as a herring."

KEGEREE.

269. INGREDIENTS.--Any cold fish, 1 teacupful of boiled rice, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and cayenne
to taste.

_Mode_.--Pick the fish carefully from the bones, mix with the other
ingredients, and serve very hot. The quantities may be varied according
to the amount of fish used.

_Time_.--1/4 hour after the rice is boiled.

_Average cost_, 5d., exclusive of the fish.


TO BOIL LOBSTERS.

270. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Buy the lobsters alive, and choose those that are heavy and
full of motion, which is an indication of their freshness. When the
shell is incrusted, it is a sign they are old: medium-sized lobsters are
the best. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion; put in the lobster, and keep it boiling quickly from 20
minutes to 3/4 hour, according to its size, and do not forget to skim
well. If it boils too long, the meat becomes thready, and if not done
enough, the spawn is not red: this must be obviated by great attention.
Hub the shell over with a little butter or sweet oil, which wipe off
again.

_Time_.--Small lobster, 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; large ditto, 1/2 to 1/3
hour.

_Average cost_, medium size, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from March to October.

TO CHOOSE LOBSTERS.--This shell-fish, if it has been cooked alive, as it
ought to have been, will have a stiffness in the tail, which, if gently
raised, will return with a spring. Care, however, must be taken in thus
proving it; for if the tail is pulled straight out, it will not return;
when the fish might be pronounced inferior, which, in reality, may not
be the case. In order to be good, lobsters should be weighty for their
bulk; if light, they will be watery; and those of the medium size, are
always the best. Small-sized lobsters are cheapest, and answer very well
for sauce. In boiling lobsters, the appearance of the shell will be much
improved by rubbing over it a little butter or salad-oil on being
immediately taken from the pot.

[Illustration: THE LOBSTER.]

    THE LOBSTER.--This is one of the crab tribe, and is found on
    most of the rocky coasts of Great Britain. Some are caught with
    the hand, but the larger number in pots, which serve all the
    purposes of a trap, being made of osiers, and baited with
    garbage. They are shaped like a wire mousetrap; so that when the
    lobsters once enter them, they cannot get out again. They are
    fastened to a cord and sunk in the sea, and their place marked
    by a buoy. The fish is very prolific, and deposits of its eggs
    in the sand, where they are soon hatched. On the coast of
    Norway, they are very abundant, and it is from there that the
    English metropolis is mostly supplied. They are rather
    indigestible, and, as a food, not so nurtritive as they are
    generally supposed to be.

HOT LOBSTER.

271. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 2 oz. of butter, grated nutmeg; salt,
pepper, and pounded mace, to taste; bread crumbs, 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Pound the meat of the lobster to a smooth paste with the butter
and seasoning, and add a few bread crumbs. Beat the eggs, and make the
whole mixture into the form of a lobster; pound the spawn, and sprinkle
over it. Bake 1/4 hour, and just before serving, lay over it the tail
and body shell, with the small claws underneath, to resemble a lobster.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.


LOBSTER SALAD.

272. INGREDIENTS.--1 hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad
(whatever is in season), a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
a few slices of cucumber. For dressing, equal quantities of oil and
vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; cayenne and
salt to taste; 3 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. These ingredients should
be mixed perfectly smooth, and form a creamy-looking sauce.

_Mode_.--Wash the salad, and thoroughly dry it by shaking it in a cloth.
Cut up the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them, and lightly
throw in the small salad. Mix all well together with the pickings from
the body of the lobster; pick the meat from the shell, cut it up into
nice square pieces, put half in the salad, the other half reserve for
garnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2 hard-boiled eggs;
chop the whites very fine, and rub the yolks through a sieve, and
afterwards the coral from the inside. Arrange the salad lightly on a
glass dish, and garnish, first with a row of sliced cucumber, then with
the pieces of lobster, the yolks and whites of the eggs, coral, and
beetroot placed alternately, and arranged in small separate bunches, so
that the colours contrast nicely.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from April to October; may be had all the year, but salad
is scarce and expensive in winter.

_Note_.--A few crayfish make a pretty garnishing to lobster salad.

    THE SHELL OF THE LOBSTER.--Like the others of its tribe, the
    lobster annually casts its shell. Previously to its throwing off
    the old one, it appears sick, languid, and restless, but in the
    course of a few days it is entirely invested in its new coat of
    armour. Whilst it is in a defenceless state, however, it seeks
    some lonely place, where it may lie undisturbed, and escape the
    horrid fate of being devoured by some of its own species who
    have the advantage of still being encased in their mail.

LOBSTER (a la Mode Francaise).

273. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2
tablespoonfuls of cream, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; bread
crumbs.

_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it up into small square
pieces; put the stock, cream, and seasoning into a stewpan, add the
lobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in the shell,
which must be nicely cleaned, and have a border of puff-paste; cover it
with bread crumbs, place small pieces of butter over, and brown before
the fire, or with a salamander.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    CELERITY OF THE LOBSTER.--In its element, the lobster is able to
    run with great speed upon its legs, or small claws, and, if
    alarmed, to spring, tail foremost, to a considerable distance,
    "even," it is said, "with the swiftness of a bird flying."
    Fishermen have seen some of them pass about thirty feet with a
    wonderful degree of swiftness. When frightened, they will take
    their spring, and, like a chamois of the Alps, plant themselves
    upon the very spot upon which they designed to hold themselves.

LOBSTER CURRY (an Entree).

274. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 2 onions, 1 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful of
curry-powder, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105, the juice of 1/2 lemon.

_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it into nice square
pieces; fry the onions of a pale brown in the butter, stir in the
curry-powder and stock, and simmer till it thickens, when put in the
lobster; stew the whole slowly for 1/2 hour, and stir occasionally; and
just before sending to table, put in the lemon-juice. Serve boiled rice
with it, the same as for other curries.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


LOBSTER CUTLETS (an Entree).

275. INGREDIENTS.--1 large hen lobster, 1 oz. fresh butter, 1/2
saltspoonful of salt, pounded mace, grated nutmeg, cayenne and white
pepper to taste, egg, and bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and pound it in a mortar with the
butter, and gradually add the mace and seasoning, well mixing the
ingredients; beat all to a smooth paste, and add a little of the spawn;
divide the mixture into pieces of an equal size, and shape them like
cutlets. They should not be very thick. Brush them over with egg, and
sprinkle with bread crumbs, and stick a short piece of the small claw in
the top of each; fry them of a nice brown in boiling lard, and drain
them before the fire, on a sieve reversed; arrange them nicely on a
dish, and pour béchamel in the middle, but not over the cutlets.

_Time_.--About 8 minutes after the cutlets are made.

_Average cost_ for this dish, 2s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

    ANCIENT MODE OF COOKING THE LOBSTER.--When this fish was to be
    served for the table, among the ancients, it was opened
    lengthwise, and filled with a gravy composed of coriander and
    pepper. It was then put on the gridiron and slowly cooked,
    whilst it was being basted with the same kind of gravy with
    which the flesh had become impregnated.

TO DRESS LOBSTERS.

276. When the lobster is boiled, rub it over with a little salad-oil,
which wipe off again; separate the body from the tail, break off the
great claws, and crack them at the joints, without injuring the meat;
split the tail in halves, and arrange all neatly in a dish, with the
body upright in the middle, and garnish with parsley. (_See_ Coloured
Plate, H.)


LOBSTER PATTIES (an Entree).

277. INGREDIENTS.--Minced lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of béchamel, 6 drops
of anchovy sauce, lemon-juice, cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Line the patty-pans with puff-paste, and put into each a small
piece of bread: cover with paste, brush over with egg, and bake of a
light colour. Take as much lobster as is required, mince the meat very
fine, and add the above ingredients; stir it over the fire for 6
minutes; remove the lids of the patty-cases, take out the bread, fill
with the mixture, and replace the covers.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    LOCAL ATTACHMENT OF THE LOBSTER.--It is said that the attachment
    of this animal is strong to some particular parts of the sea, a
    circumstance celebrated in the following lines:--

      "Nought like their home the constant lobsters prize,
      And foreign shores and seas unknown despise.
      Though cruel hands the banish'd wretch expel,
      And force the captive from his native cell,
      He will, if freed, return with anxious care,
      Find the known rock, and to his home repair;
      No novel customs learns in different seas,
      But wonted food and home-taught manners please."

POTTED LOBSTER.

278. INGREDIENTS.--2 lobsters; seasoning to taste, of nutmeg, pounded
mace, white pepper, and salt; 1/4 lb. of butter, 3 or 4 bay-leaves.

_Mode_.--Take out the meat carefully from the shell, but do not cut it
up. Put some butter at the bottom of a dish, lay in the lobster as
evenly as possible, with the bay-leaves and seasoning between. Cover
with butter, and bake for 3/4 hour in a gentle oven. When done, drain
the whole on a sieve, and lay the pieces in potting-jars, with the
seasoning about them. When cold, pour over it clarified butter, and, if
very highly seasoned, it will keep some time.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 4s. 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Potted lobster may be used cold, or as _fricassee_ with cream
sauce.

    How the Lobster Feeds.--The pincers of the lobster's large claws
    are furnished with nobs, and those of the other, are always
    serrated. With the former, it keeps firm hold of the stalks of
    submarine plants, and with the latter, it cuts and minces its
    food with great dexterity. The knobbed, or numb claw, as it is
    called by fishermen, is sometimes on the right and sometimes on
    the left, indifferently.

BAKED MACKEREL.

279. INGREDIENTS.--4 middling-sized mackerel, a nice delicate forcemeat
(_see_ Forcemeats), 3 oz. of butter; pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Clean the fish, take out the roes, and fill up with forcemeat,
and sew up the slit. Flour, and put them in a dish, heads and tails
alternately, with the roes; and, between each layer, put some little
pieces of butter, and pepper and salt. Bake for 1/2 an hour, and either
serve with plain melted butter or a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 10d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Note_.--Baked mackerel may be dressed in the same way as baked herrings
(_see_ No. 268), and may also be stewed in wine.

    WEIGHT OF THE MACKEREL.--The greatest weight of this fish seldom
    exceeds 2 lbs., whilst their ordinary length runs between 14 and
    20 inches. They die almost immediately after they are taken from
    their element, and, for a short time, exhibit a phosphoric
    light.

BOILED MACKEREL.

280. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the
kettle with sufficient water to cover it with salt as above; bring it
gradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done; dish them on
a hot napkin, heads and tails alternately, and garnish with fennel.
Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments to
boiled mackerel; but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served with it.
(_See_ Coloured Plate, F.)

_Time_.--After the water boils, 10 minutes; for large mackerel, allow
more time.

_Average cost_, from 4d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

_Note_.--When variety is desired, fillet the mackerel, boil it, and pour
over parsley and butter; send some of this, besides, in a tureen.


BROILED MACKEREL.

281. INGREDIENTS.--Pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of oil.

_Mode_.--Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled,
but merely wiped very clean and dry, after taking out the gills and
insides. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and oil; broil
it over a clear fire, turn it over on both sides, and also on the back.
When sufficiently cooked, the flesh can be detached from the bone, which
will be in about 15 minutes for a small mackerel. Chop a little parsley,
work it up in the butter, with pepper and salt to taste, and a squeeze
of lemon-juice, and put it in the back. Serve before the butter is quite
melted, with a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce in a tureen.

_Time_.--Small mackerel 15 minutes. _Average cost_, from 4d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

[Illustration: THE MACKEREL.]

    THE MACKEREL.--This is not only one of the most
    elegantly-formed, but one of the most beautifully-coloured
    fishes, when taken out of the sea, that we have. Death, in some
    degree, impairs the vivid splendour of its colours; but it does
    not entirely obliterate them. It visits the shores of Great
    Britain in countless shoals, appearing about March, off the
    Land's End; in the bays of Devonshire, about April; off Brighton
    in the beginning of May; and on the coast of Suffolk about the
    beginning of June. In the Orkneys they are seen till August; but
    the greatest fishery is on the west coasts of England.

TO CHOOSE MACKEREL.--In choosing this fish, purchasers should, to a
great extent, be regulated by the brightness of its appearance. If it
have a transparent, silvery hue, the flesh is good; but if it be red
about the head, it is stale.


FILLETS OF MACKEREL.

282. INGREDIENTS.--2 large mackerel, 1 oz. butter, 1 small bunch of
chopped herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of medium stock, No. 105, 3
tablespoonfuls of béchamel (_see_ Sauces); salt, cayenne, and
lemon-juice to taste.

_Mode_.--Clean the fish, and fillet it; scald the herbs, chop them fine,
and put them with the butter and stock into a stewpan. Lay in the
mackerel, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes; take them out, and put
them on a hot dish. Dredge in a little flour, add the other ingredients,
give one boil, and pour it over the mackerel.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Note_.--Fillets of mackerel may be covered with egg and bread crumbs,
and fried of a nice brown. Serve with _maître d'hôtel_ sauce and plain
melted butter.

    THE VORACITY OF THE MACKEREL.--The voracity of this fish is very
    great, and, from their immense numbers, they are bold in
    attacking objects of which they might, otherwise, be expected to
    have a wholesome dread. Pontoppidan relates an anecdote of a
    sailor belonging to a ship lying in one of the harbours on the
    coast of Norway, who, having gone into the sea to bathe, was
    suddenly missed by his companions; in the course of a few
    minutes, however, he was seen on the surface, with great numbers
    of mackerel clinging to him by their mouths. His comrades
    hastened in a boat to his assistance; but when they had struck
    the fishes from him and got him up, they found he was so
    severely bitten, that he shortly afterward expired.

PICKLED MACKEREL.

283. INGREDIENTS.--12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 4
mackerel.

_Mode_.--Boil the mackerel as in the recipe No. 282, and lay them in a
dish; take half the liquor they were boiled in; add as much vinegar,
peppercorns, and bay-leaves; boil for 10 minutes, and when cold, pour
over the fish.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

    MACKEREL GARUM.--This brine, so greatly esteemed by the
    ancients, was manufactured from various kinds of fishes. When
    mackerel was employed, a few of them were placed in a small
    vase, with a large quantity of salt, which was well stirred, and
    then left to settle for some hours. On the following day, this
    was put into an earthen pot, which was uncovered, and placed in
    a situation to get the rays of the sun. At the end of two or
    three months, it was hermetically sealed, after having had added
    to it a quantity of old wine, equal to one third of the mixture.

GREY MULLET.

284. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--If the fish be very large, it should be laid in cold water, and
gradually brought to a boil; if small, put it in boiling water, salted
in the above proportion. Serve with anchovy sauce and plain melted
butter.

_Time_.--According to size, 1/4 to 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 8d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from July to October.

[Illustration: THE GREY MULLET.]

    THE GREY MULLET.--This is quite a different fish from the red
    mullet, is abundant on the sandy coasts of Great Britain, and
    ascends rivers for miles. On the south coast it is very
    plentiful, and is considered a fine fish. It improves more than
    any other salt-water fish when kept in ponds.

RED MULLET.

285. INGREDIENTS.--Oiled paper, thickening of butter and flour, 1/2
teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 glass of sherry; cayenne and salt to
taste.

_Mode_.--Clean the fish, take out the gills, but leave the inside, fold
in oiled paper, and bake them gently. When done, take the liquor that
flows from the fish, add a thickening of butter kneaded with flour; put
in the other ingredients, and let it boil for 2 minutes. Serve the sauce
in a tureen, and the fish, either with or without the paper cases.

_Time_.--About 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. each.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but more plentiful in summer.

_Note_.--Red mullet may be broiled, and should be folded in oiled paper,
the same as in the preceding recipe, and seasoned with pepper and salt.
They may be served without sauce; but if any is required, use melted
_butter_, Italian or anchovy sauce. They should never be plain boiled.

[Illustration: THE STRIPED RED MULLET.]

    THE STRIPED RED MULLET.--This fish was very highly esteemed by
    the ancients, especially by the Romans, who gave the most
    extravagant prices for it. Those of 2 lbs. weight were valued at
    about £15 each; those of 4 lbs. at £60, and, in the reign of
    Tiberius, three of them were sold for £209. To witness the
    changing loveliness of their colour during their dying agonies,
    was one of the principal reasons that such a high price was paid
    for one of these fishes. It frequents our Cornish and Sussex
    coasts, and is in high request, the flesh being firm, white, and
    well flavoured.

FRIED OYSTERS.

286. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful of
ketchup, a little chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped
parsley.

_Mode_.--Boil the oysters for 1 minute in their own liquor, and drain
them; fry them with the butter, ketchup, lemon-peel, and parsley; lay
them on a dish, and garnish with fried potatoes, toasted sippets, and
parsley. This is a delicious delicacy, and is a favourite Italian dish.

_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

[Illustration: THE EDIBLE OYSTER.]

    THE EDIBLE OYSTER:--This shell-fish is almost universally
    distributed near the shores of seas in all latitudes, and they
    especially abound on the coasts of France and Britain. The
    coasts most celebrated, in England, for them, are those of Essex
    and Suffolk. Here they are dredged up by means of a net with an
    iron scraper at the mouth, that is dragged by a rope from a boat
    over the beds. As soon as taken from their native beds, they are
    stored in pits, formed for the purpose, furnished with sluices,
    through which, at the spring tides, the water is suffered to
    flow. This water, being stagnant, soon becomes green in warm
    weather; and, in a few days afterwards, the oysters acquire the
    same tinge, which increases their value in the market. They do
    not, however, attain their perfection and become fit for sale
    till the end of six or eight weeks. Oysters are not considered
    proper for the table till they are about a year and a half old;
    so that the brood of one spring are not to be taken for sale,
    till, at least, the September twelvemonth afterwards.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS.

I.

287. INGREDIENTS.--Oysters, say 1 pint, 1 oz. butter, flour, 2
tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream; pepper and
salt to taste; bread crumbs, oiled butter.

_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard
them, and strain the liquor free from grit. Put 1 oz. of batter into a
stewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the
stock, cream, and strained liquor, and give one boil. Put in the oysters
and seasoning; let them gradually heat through, but not boil. Have ready
the scallop-shells buttered; lay in the oysters, and as much of the
liquid as they will hold; cover them over with bread crumbs, over which
drop a little oiled butter. Brown them in the oven, or before the fire,
and serve quickly, and very hot.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/4 hour.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.


II.

Prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe, and put them in a
scallop-shell or saucer, and between each layer sprinkle over a few
bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; place small pieces of
butter over, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven. Put sufficient
bread crumbs on the top to make a smooth surface, as the oysters should
not be seen.

_Time_.--About 1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 3s. 2d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.


STEWED OYSTERS.

288. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of oysters, 1 oz. of butter, flour, 1/3 pint
of cream; cayenne and salt to taste; 1 blade of pounded mace.

_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard
them, and strain the liquor; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in
sufficient flour to dry it up, add the oyster-liquor and mace, and stir
it over a sharp fire with a wooden spoon; when it comes to a boil, add
the cream, oysters, and seasoning. Let all simmer for 1 or 2 minutes,
but not longer, or the oysters would harden. Serve on a hot dish, and
garnish with croutons, or toasted sippets of bread. A small piece of
lemon-peel boiled with the oyster-liquor, and taken out before the cream
is added, will be found an improvement.

_Time_.--Altogether 15 minutes.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

    THE OYSTER AND THE SCALLOP.--The oyster is described as a
    bivalve shell-fish, having the valves generally unequal. The
    hinge is without teeth, but furnished with a somewhat oval
    cavity, and mostly with lateral transverse grooves. From a
    similarity in the structure of the hinge, oysters and scallops
    have been classified as one tribe; but they differ very
    essentially both in their external appearance and their habits.
    Oysters adhere to rocks, or, as in two or three species, to
    roots of trees on the shore; while the scallops are always
    detached, and usually lurk in the sand.

OYSTER PATTIES (an Entree).

289. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of
cream, a little lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace; cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut each
one into 3 pieces. Put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient
flour to dry it up; add the strained oyster-liquor with the other
ingredients; put in the oysters, and let them heat gradually, but not
boil fast. Make the patty-cases as directed for lobster patties, No.
277: fill with the oyster mixture, and replace the covers.

_Time_.--2 minutes for the oysters to simmer in the mixture.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the patty-cases, 1s. 1d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

    THE OYSTER FISHERY.--The oyster fishery in Britain is esteemed
    of so much importance, that it is regulated by a Court of
    Admiralty. In the month of May, the fishermen are allowed to
    take the oysters, in order to separate the spawn from the
    cultch, the latter of which is thrown in again, to preserve the
    bed for the future. After this month, it is felony to carry away
    the cultch, and otherwise punishable to take any oyster, between
    the shells of which, when closed, a shilling will rattle.

TO KEEP OYSTERS.

290. Put them in a tub, and cover them with salt and water. Let them
remain for 12 hours, when they are to be taken out, and allowed to stand
for another 12 hours without water. If left without water every
alternate 12 hours, they will be much better than if constantly kept in
it. Never put the same water twice to them.


OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER.

291. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of oysters, 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk,
sufficient flour to make the batter; pepper and salt to taste; when
liked, a little nutmeg; hot lard.

_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and lay them
on a cloth, to drain thoroughly. Break the eggs into a basin, mix the
flour with them, add the milk gradually, with nutmeg and seasoning, and
put the oysters in the batter. Make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan,
put in the oysters, one at a time; when done, take them up with a
sharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin. Fried oysters are
frequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then a few bread crumbs
should be added to the flour.

_Time_.--5 or 6 minutes.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 10d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

    EXCELLENCE OF THE ENGLISH OYSTER.--The French assert that the
    English oysters, which are esteemed the best in Europe, were
    originally procured from Cancalle Bay, near St. Malo; but they
    assign no proof for this. It is a fact, however, that the
    oysters eaten in ancient Rome were nourished in the channel
    which then parted the Isle of Thanet from England, and which has
    since been filled up, and converted into meadows.

BOILED PERCH.

292. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Scale the fish, take out the gills and clean it thoroughly; lay
it in boiling water, salted as above, and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
If the fish is very large, longer time must be allowed. Garnish with
parsley, and serve with plain melted butter, or Dutch sauce. Perch do
not preserve so good a flavour when stewed as when dressed in any other
way.

_Time_.--Middling-sized perch, 1/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ from September to November.

_Note_.--Tench may be boiled the same way, and served with the same
sauces.

[Illustration: THE PERCH.]

    THE PERCH.--This is one of the best, as it is one of the most
    common, of our fresh-water fishes, and is found in nearly all
    the lakes and rivers in Britain and Ireland, as well as through
    the whole of Europe within the temperate zone. It is extremely
    voracious, and it has the peculiarity of being gregarious, which
    is contrary to the nature of all fresh-water fishes of prey. The
    best season to angle for it is from the beginning of May to the
    middle of July. Large numbers of this fish are bred in the
    Hampton Court and Bushy Park ponds, all of which are well
    supplied with running water and with plenty of food; yet they
    rarely attain a large size. In the Regent's Park they are also
    very numerous; but are seldom heavier than three quarters of a
    pound.

FRIED PERCH.

293. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs, hot lard.

_Mode_.--Scale and clean the fish, brush it over with egg, and cover
with bread crumbs. Have ready some boiling lard; put the fish in, and
fry a nice brown. Serve with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce.

_Time_.--10 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from September to November.

_Note_.--Fry tench in the same way.


PERCH STEWED WITH WINE.

294. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of stock No. 105 and sherry, 1
bay-leaf, 1 clove of garlic, a small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, salt to
taste; thickening of butter and flour, pepper, grated nutmeg, 1/2
teaspoonful of anchovy sauce.

_Mode_.--Scale the fish and take out the gills, and clean them
thoroughly; lay them in a stewpan with sufficient stock and sherry just
to cover them. Put in the bay-leaf, garlic, parsley, cloves, and salt,
and simmer till tender. When done, take out the fish, strain the liquor,
add a thickening of butter and flour, the pepper, nutmeg, and the
anchovy sauce, and stir it over the fire until somewhat reduced, when
pour over the fish, and serve.

_Time_.--About 20 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from September to November.


BOILED PIKE.

295. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water; a little
vinegar.

_Mode_.--Scale and clean the pike, and fasten the tail in its mouth by
means of a skewer. Lay it in cold water, and when it boils, throw in the
salt and vinegar. The time for boiling depends, of course, on the size
of the fish; but a middling-sized pike will take about 1/2 an hour.
Serve with Dutch or anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter.

_Time_.--According to size, 1/2 to 1 hour.--_Average cost_. Seldom
bought.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

[Illustration: THE PIKE.]

    THE PIKE.--This fish is, on account of its voracity, termed the
    freshwater shark, and is abundant in most of the European lakes,
    especially those of the northern parts. It grows to an immense
    size, some attaining to the measure of eight feet, in Lapland
    and Russia. The smaller lakes, of this country and Ireland, vary
    in the kinds of fish they produce; some affording trout, others
    pike; and so on. Where these happen to be together, however, the
    trout soon becomes extinct. "Within a short distance of
    Castlebar," says a writer on sports, "there is a small bog-lake
    called Derreens. Ten years ago it was celebrated for its
    numerous well-sized trouts. Accidentally pike effected a passage
    into the lake from the Minola river, and now the trouts are
    extinct, or, at least, none of them are caught or seen. Previous
    to the intrusion of the pikes, half a dozen trouts would be
    killed in an evening in Derreens, whose collective weight often
    amounted to twenty pounds." As an eating fish, the pike is in
    general dry.

BAKED PIKE.

296. INGREDIENTS.--1 or 2 pike, a nice delicate stuffing (_see_
Forcemeats), 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. butter.

_Mode_.--Scale the fish, take out the gills, wash, and wipe it
thoroughly dry; stuff it with forcemeat, sew it up, and fasten the tail
in the mouth by means of a skewer; brush it over with egg, sprinkle with
bread crumbs, and baste with butter, before putting it in the oven,
which must be well heated. When the pike is of a nice brown colour,
cover it with buttered paper, as the outside would become too dry. If 2
are dressed, a little variety may be made by making one of them green
with a little chopped parsley mixed with the bread crumbs. Serve anchovy
or Dutch sauce, and plain melted butter with it.

_Time_.--According to size, 1 hour, more or less.

_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Note_.--Pike _à la génévese_ may be stewed in the same manner as salmon
_à la génévese_.


FRIED PLAICE.

297.--INGREDIENTS.--Hot lard, or clarified dripping; egg and bread
crumbs.

_Mode_.--This fish is fried in the same manner as soles. Wash and wipe
them thoroughly dry, and let them remain in a cloth until it is time to
dress them. Brush them over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs mixed
with a little flour. Fry of a nice brown in hot dripping or lard, and
garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. Send them to table with
shrimp-sauce and plain melted butter.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes. _Average cost_, 3d. each.

_Seasonable_ from May to November.

_Sufficient_, 4 plaice for 4 persons.

_Note_.--Plaice may be boiled plain, and served with melted butter.
Garnish with parsley and cut lemon.


STEWED PLAICE.

298. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 plaice, 2 onions, 1/2 oz. ground ginger, 1
pint of lemon-juice, 1/4 pint water, 6 eggs; cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the fish into pieces about 2 inches wide, salt them, and
let them remain 1/4 hour. Slice and fry the onions a light brown; put
them in a stewpan, on the top of which put the fish without washing, and
add the ginger, lemon-juice, and water. Cook slowly for 1/2 hour, and do
not let the fish boil, or it will break. Take it out, and when the
liquor is cool, add 6 well-beaten eggs; simmer till it thickens, when
pour over the fish, and serve.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ from May to November.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons; according to size.

[Illustration: THE PLAICE.]

    THE PLAICE.--This fish is found both in the Baltic and the
    Mediterranean, and is also abundant on the coast of England. It
    keeps well, and, like all ground-fish, is very tenacious of
    life. Its flesh is inferior to that of the sole, and, as it is a
    low-priced fish, it is generally bought by the poor. The best
    brought to the London market are called _Dowers plaice_, from
    their being caught in the Dowers, or flats, between Hastings and
    Folkstone.

TO BOIL PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.

299. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Prawns should be very red, and have no spawn under the tail;
much depends on their freshness and the way in which they are cooked.
Throw them into boiling water, salted as above, and keep them boiling
for about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the same way; but
less time must be allowed. It may easily be known when they are done by
their changing colour. Care should be taken that they are not
over-boiled, as they then become tasteless and indigestible.

_Time_.--Prawns, about 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 minutes.

_Average cost_, prawns, 2s. per lb.; shrimps, 6d. per pint.

_Seasonable_ all the year.


TO DRESS PRAWNS.

300. Cover a dish with a large cup reversed, and over that lay a small
white napkin. Arrange the prawns on it in the form of a pyramid, and
garnish with plenty of parsley.


BOILED SALMON.

301. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water,--sufficient
water to cover the fish.

_Mode_.--Scale and clean the fish, and be particular that no blood is
left inside; lay it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water to
cover it, adding salt in the above proportion. Bring it quickly to a
boil, take off all the scum, and let it simmer gently till the fish is
done, which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone.
Experience alone can teach the cook to fix the time for boiling fish;
but it is especially to be remembered, that it should never be
underdressed, as then nothing is more unwholesome. Neither let it remain
in the kettle after it is sufficiently cooked, as that would render it
insipid, watery, and colourless. Drain it, and if not wanted for a few
minutes, keep it warm by means of warm cloths laid over it. Serve on a
hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and send lobster or
shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A dish of
dressed cucumber usually accompanies this fish.

_Time_.--8 minutes to each lb. for large thick salmon; 6 minutes for
thin fish. _Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 3d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from April to August.

_Sufficient_, 1/2 lb., or rather less, for each person.

_Note_.--Cut lemon should be put on the table with this fish; and a
little of the juice squeezed over it is considered by many persons a
most agreeable addition. Boiled peas are also, by some connoisseurs,
considered especially adapted to be served with salmon.

TO CHOOSE SALMON.--To be good, the belly should be firm and thick, which
may readily be ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger. The
circumstance of this fish having red gills, though given as a standing
rule in most cookery-books, as a sign of its goodness, is not at all to
be relied on, as this quality can be easily given them by art.


SALMON AND CAPER SAUCE.

302. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of salmon, 1/4 lb. batter, 1/2 teaspoonful
of chopped parsley, 1 shalot; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place pieces of butter over
it, and add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoning
into the fish; baste it frequently; when done, take it out and drain for
a minute or two; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve.
Salmon dressed in this way, with tomato sauce, is very delicious.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from April to August.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

    THE MIGRATORY HABITS OF THE SALMON.--The instinct with which the
    salmon revisits its native river, is one of the most curious
    circumstances in its natural history. As the swallow returns
    annually to its nest, so it returns to the same spot to deposit
    its ova. This fact would seem to have been repeatedly proved. M.
    De Lande fastened a copper ring round a salmon's tail, and found
    that, for three successive seasons, it returned to the same
    place. Dr. Bloch states that gold and silver rings have been
    attached by eastern princes to salmon, to prove that a
    communication existed between the Persian Gulf and the Caspian
    and Northern Seas, and that the experiment succeeded.

COLLARED SALMON.

303. INGREDIENTS.--A piece of salmon, say 3 lbs., a high seasoning of
salt, pounded mace, and pepper; water and vinegar, 3 bay-leaves.

_Mode_.--Split the fish; scale, bone, and wash it thoroughly clean; wipe
it, and rub in the seasoning inside and out; roll it up, and bind
firmly; lay it in a kettle, cover it with vinegar and water (1/3
vinegar, in proportion to the water); add the bay-leaves and a good
seasoning of salt and whole pepper, and simmer till done. Do not remove
the lid. Serve with melted butter or anchovy sauce. For preserving the
collared fish, boil up the liquor in which it was cooked, and add a
little more vinegar. Pour over when cold.

_Time_.--3/4 hour, or rather more.

    HABITAT OF THE SALMON.--The salmon is styled by Walton the "king
    of fresh-water fish," and is found distributed over the north of
    Europe and Asia, from Britain to Kamschatka, but is never found
    in warm latitudes, nor has it ever been caught even so far south
    as the Mediterranean. It lives in fresh as well as in salt
    waters, depositing its spawn in the former, hundreds of miles
    from the mouths of some of those rivers to which it has been
    known to resort. In 1859, great efforts were made to introduce
    this fish into the Australian colonies; and it is believed that
    the attempt, after many difficulties, which were very skilfully
    overcome, has been successful.

CRIMPED SALMON.

304. Salmon is frequently dressed in this way at many fashionable
tables, but must be very fresh, and cut into slices 2 or 3 inches thick.
Lay these in cold salt and water for 1 hour; have ready some boiling
water, salted, as in recipe No. 301, and well skimmed; put in the fish,
and simmer gently for 1/4 hour, or rather more; should it be very thick,
garnish the same as boiled salmon, and serve with the same sauces.


_Time_.--1/4 hour, more or less, according to size.

_Note_.--Never use vinegar with salmon, as it spoils the taste and
colour of the fish.

[Illustration: THE SALMON.]

    THE SALMON TRIBE.--This is the Abdominal fish, forming the
    fourth of the orders of Linnaeus. They are distinguished from
    the other fishes by having two dorsal fins, of which the
    hindmost is fleshy and without rays. They have teeth both on the
    tongue and in the jaws, whilst the body is covered with round
    and minutely striated scales.

CURRIED SALMON.

305. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of boiled salmon, 3/4 pint of strong or
medium stock (No. 105), 1 onion, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1
teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 oz. of
butter, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut up the onions into small pieces, and fry them of a pale
brown in the butter; add all the ingredients but the salmon, and simmer
gently till the onion is tender, occasionally stirring the contents; cut
the salmon into small square pieces, carefully take away all skin and
bone, lay it in the stewpan, and let it gradually heat through; but do
not allow it to boil long.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 9d.

    GROWTH OF THE SALMON.--At the latter end of the year--some as
    soon as November--salmon begin to press up the rivers as far as
    they can reach, in order to deposit their spawn, which they do
    in the sand or gravel, about eighteen inches deep. Here it lies
    buried till the spring, when, about the latter end of March, it
    begins to exclude the young, which gradually increase to four or
    five inches in length, and are then termed smelts or smouts.
    About the beginning of May, the river seems to be alive with
    them, and there is no forming an idea of their numbers without
    having seen them. A seasonable flood, however, comes, and
    hurries them to the "great deep;" whence, about the middle of
    June, they commence their return to the river again. By this
    time they are twelve or sixteen inches long, and progressively
    increase, both in number and size, till about the end of July,
    when they have become large enough to be denominated _grilse_.
    Early in August they become fewer in numbers, but of greater
    size, haying advanced to a weight of from six to nine pounds.
    This rapidity of growth appears surprising, and realizes the
    remark of Walton, that "the salmlet becomes a salmon in as short
    a time as a gosling becomes a goose." Recent writers have,
    however, thrown considerable doubts on this quick growth of the
    salmon.

SALMON CUTLETS.

306. Cut the slices 1 inch thick, and season them with pepper and salt;
butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, with
their ends twisted; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with
anchovy or caper sauce. When higher seasoning is required, add a few
chopped herbs and a little spice.

_Time_.--5 to 10 minutes.

SALMON A LA GENEVESE.

307. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of salmon, 2 chopped shalots, a little
parsley, a small bunch of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 carrots, pounded mace,
pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of Madeira, 1/2 pint of white
stock (No. 107), thickening of butter and flour, 1 teaspoonful of
essence of anchovies, the juice of 1 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Rub the bottom of a stewpan over with butter, and put in the
shalots, herbs, bay-leaves, carrots, mace, and seasoning; stir them for
10 minutes over a clear fire, and add the Madeira or sherry; simmer
gently for 1/2 hour, and strain through a sieve over the fish, which
stew in this gravy. As soon as the fish is sufficiently cooked, take
away all the liquor, except a little to keep the salmon moist, and put
it into another stewpan; add the stock, thicken with butter and flour,
and put in the anchovies, lemon-juice, cayenne, and salt; lay the salmon
on a hot dish, pour over it part of the sauce, and serve the remainder
in a tureen.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.


PICKLED SALMON.

308. INGREDIENTS.--Salmon, 1/2 oz. of whole pepper, 1/2 oz. of whole
allspice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities of
vinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled.

_Mode_.--After the fish comes from table, lay it in a nice dish with a
cover to it, as it should be excluded from the air, and take away the
bone; boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for 10
minutes, and let it stand to get cold; pour it over the salmon, and in
12 hours this will be fit for the table.

_Time_.--10 minutes.

    TO CURE SALMON.--This process consists in splitting the fish,
    rubbing it with salt, and then putting it into pickle in tubs
    provided for the purpose. Here it is kept for about six weeks,
    when it is taken out, pressed and packed in casks, with layers
    of salt.

POTTED SALMON.

309. INGREDIENTS.--Salmon; pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to taste; 3
bay-leaves, 1/4 lb. butter.

_Mode_.--Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth
(water would spoil it); cut it into square pieces, which rub with salt;
let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a dish with
the other ingredients, and bake. When quite done, drain them from the
gravy, press into pots for use, and, when cold, pour over it clarified
butter.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

    AN AVERSION IN THE SALMON.--The salmon is said to have an
    aversion to anything red; hence, fishermen engaged in catching
    it do not wear jackets or caps of that colour. Pontoppidan also
    says, that it has an abhorrence of carrion, and if any happens
    to be thrown into the places it haunts, it immediately forsakes
    them. The remedy adopted for this in Norway, is to throw into
    the polluted water a lighted torch. As food, salmon, when in
    perfection, is one of the most delicious and nutritive of our
    fish.

BAKED SEA-BREAM.

310. INGREDIENTS.--1 bream. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and
cayenne; 1/4 lb. of butter.

_Mode_.--Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and wipe
away all moisture with a nice dry cloth. Season it inside and out with
salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish. Place the
butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than
1/2 an hour. To stuff this fish before baking, will be found a great
improvement.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 an hour.

_Seasonable_ in summer.

[Illustration: THE SEA-BREAM.]

_Note_.--This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and served
with a good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine.

    THE SEA-BREAM.--This is an abundant fish in Cornwall, and it is
    frequently found in the fish-market of Hastings during the
    summer months, but it is not in much esteem.

    MR. YARRELL'S RECIPE.

    "When thoroughly cleansed, the fish should be wiped dry, but
    none of the scales should be taken off. In this state it should
    be broiled, turning it often, and if the skin cracks, flour it a
    little to keep the outer case entire. When on table, the whole
    skin and scales turn off without difficulty, and the muscle
    beneath, saturated in its own natural juices, which the outside
    covering has retained, will be of good flavour."

TO DRESS SHAD.

311. INGREDIENTS.--1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt.

_Mode_.--Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make two or three
incisions across the back. Season it with pepper and salt, and let it
remain in oil for 1/2 hour. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire,
and serve with caper sauce. This fish is much esteemed by the French,
and by them is considered excellent.

_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour.

_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.

_Seasonable_ from April to June.

[Illustration: THE SHAD.]

    THE SHAD.--This is a salt-water fish, but is held in little
    esteem. It enters our rivers to spawn in May, and great numbers
    of them are taken opposite the Isle of Dogs, in the Thames.

POTTED SHRIMPS.

312. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of shelled shrimps, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1
blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Have ready a pint of picked shrimps, and put them, with the
other ingredients, into a stewpan; let them heat gradually in the
butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and when cold,
cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to soak in the butter.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 3d.


BUTTERED PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.

313. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of picked prawns or shrimps, 3/4 pint of stock
No. 104, thickening of butter and flour; salt, cayenne, and nutmeg to
taste.

_Mode_.--Pick the prawns or shrimps, and put them in a stewpan with the
stock; add a thickening of butter and flour; season, and simmer gently
for 3 minutes. Serve on a dish garnished with fried bread or toasted
sippets. Cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy.

_Time_.--3 minutes.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 4d.

[Illustration: THE SHRIMP.]

    THE SHRIMP.--This shell-fish is smaller than the prawn, and is
    greatly relished in London as a delicacy. It inhabits most of
    the sandy shores of Europe, and the Isle of Wight is especially
    famous for them.

BOILED SKATE.

314. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Cleanse and skin the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, with
sufficient water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it
simmer very gently till done; then dish it on a hot napkin, and serve
with shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce.

_Time_.--According to size, from 1/2 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per
lb.

_Seasonable_ from August to April.


CRIMPED SKATE.

315. INGREDIENTS.--1/8 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Clean, skin, and cut the fish into slices, which roll and tie
round with string. Have ready some water highly salted, put in the fish,
and boil till it is done. Drain well, remove the string, dish on a hot
napkin, and serve with the same sauces as above. Skate should never be
eaten out of season, as it is liable to produce diarrhoea and other
diseases. It may be dished without a napkin, and the sauce poured over.

_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from August to April.

TO CHOOSE SKATE.--This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth,
and thickness, and should have a creamy appearance. When crimped, it
should not be kept longer than a day or two, as all kinds of crimped
fish soon become sour.

[Illustration: THORNBACK SKATE.]

    THE SKATE.--This is one of the ray tribe, and is extremely
    abundant and cheap in the fishing towns of England. The flesh is
    white, thick, and nourishing; but, we suppose, from its being so
    plentiful, it is esteemed less than it ought to be on account of
    its nutritive properties, and the ease with which it is
    digested. It is much improved by crimping; in which state it is
    usually sold in London. The THORNBACK differs from the true
    skate by having large spines in its back, of which the other is
    destitute. It is taken in great abundance during the spring and
    summer months, but its flesh is not so good as it is in
    November. It is, in regard to quality, inferior to that of the
    true skate.

SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE (a la Francaise)

316. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 slices of skate, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of
salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of
parsley, 2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient water to cover
the fish.

_Mode_.--Put in a fish-kettle all the above ingredients, and simmer the
skate in them till tender. When it is done, skin it neatly, and pour
over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling. Drain it, put
it on a hot dish, pour over it caper sauce, and send some of the latter
to table in a tureen.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from August to April.

_Note_.--Skate may also be served with onion sauce, or parsley and
butter.


SMALL SKATE FRIED.

317. INGREDIENTS.--Skate, sufficient vinegar to cover them, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice of
1/2 lemon, hot dripping.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the skate, lay them in a dish, with sufficient vinegar
to cover them; add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon-juice,
and let the fish remain in this pickle for 1-1/2 hour. Then drain them
well, flour them, and fry of a nice brown, in hot dripping. They may be
served either with or without sauce. Skate is not good if dressed too
fresh, unless it is crimped; it should, therefore, be kept for a day,
but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from August to April.

    OTHER SPECIES OF SKATE.--Besides the true skate, there are
    several other species found in our seas. These are known as the
    _white_ skate, the long-nosed skate, and the Homelyn ray, which
    are of inferior quality, though often crimped, and sold for true
    skate.

TO BAKE SMELTS.

318. INGREDIENTS.--12 smelts, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 2
blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them
nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine bread crumbs, and
place little pieces of butter all over them. Season and bake for 15
minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish
with fried parsley and cut lemon.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. per dozen.

_Seasonable_ from October to May.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

TO CHOOSE SMELTS.--When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance,
and when alive, their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, after
death, fades to a light fawn. They ought to have a refreshing fragrance,
resembling that of a cucumber.

    THE ODOUR OF THE SMELT.--This peculiarity in the smelt has been
    compared, by some, to the fragrance of a cucumber, and by
    others, to that of a violet. It is a very elegant fish, and
    formerly abounded in the Thames. The _Atharine_, or sand smelt,
    is sometimes sold for the true one; but it is an inferior fish,
    being drier in the quality of its flesh. On the south coast of
    England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful.

TO FRY SMELTS.

319. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour; boiling lard.

_Mode_.--Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is
necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them in
egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs, and put them into
boiling lard. Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not to take off
the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled. Dry
them before the fire on a drainer, and servo with plain melted butter.
This fish is often used as a garnishing.

_Time_.--5 minutes.

_Average cost_, 2s. per dozen.

_Seasonable_ from October to May.

[Illustration: THE SMELT.]

    THE SMELT.--This is a delicate little fish, and is in high
    esteem. Mr. Yarrell asserts that the true smelt is entirety
    confined to the western and eastern coasts of Britain. It very
    rarely ventures far from the shore, and is plentiful in
    November, December, and January.

BAKED SOLES.

320. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles, 1/4 lb. of butter, egg, and bread crumbs,
minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne and salt to
taste.

_Mode_.--Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them thoroughly in
a cloth. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with
a little minced parsley, lay them in a large flat baking-dish, white
side uppermost; or if it will not hold the two soles, they may each be
laid on a dish by itself; but they must not be put one on the top of the
other. Melt the butter, and pour it over the whole, and bake for 20
minutes. Take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish, add the
wine, lemon-juice, and seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour it
_under_ the fish, and serve.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. to 2s. per pair.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

TO CHOOSE SOLES.--This fish should be both thick and firm. If the skin
is difficult to be taken off, and the flesh looks grey, it is good.

[Illustration: THE SOLE.]

    THE SOLE.--This ranks next to the turbot in point of excellence
    among our flat fish. It is abundant on the British coasts, but
    those of the western shores are much superior in size to those
    taken on the northern. The finest are caught in Torbay, and
    frequently weigh 8 or 10 lbs. per pair. Its flesh being firm,
    white, and delicate, is greatly esteemed.

BOILED SOLES.

321. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Cleanse and wash the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but do
not skin it. Lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to
cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it gradually come to a
boil, and keep it simmering for a few minutes, according to the size of
the fish. Dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnish
with parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain melted
butter, are usually sent to table with this dish.

_Time_.--After the water boils, 7 minutes for a middling-sized sole.

_Average cost_, 1s. to 2s. per pair.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_,--1 middling-sized sole for 2 persons.


SOLE OR COD PIE.

322. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning to
taste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters to each lb. of
fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickened
with flour, puff paste.

_Mode_.--Clear the fish from the bones, lay it in a pie-dish, and
between each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning; add the
stock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter; cover with puff
paste, and bake for 1/2 hour. Boil the cream with sufficient flour to
thicken it; pour in the pie, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 10d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.


SOLES WITH CREAM SAUCE.

323. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste;
the juice of 1/2 lemon, salt and water, 1/2 pint of cream.

_Mode_.--Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in 2
pieces; lay them in cold salt and water, which bring gradually to a
boil. When the water boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicately
clean stewpan, and cover with the cream. Add the seasoning, simmer very
gently for ten minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-juice.
The fillets may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer; but this is
not so economical a way of dressing them, as double the quantity of cream
is required.

_Time_.--10 minutes in the cream.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish.

    THE SOLE A FAVOURITE WITH THE ANCIENT GREEKS.--This fish was
    much sought after by the ancient Greeks on account of its light
    and nourishing qualities. The brill, the flounder, the diamond
    and Dutch plaice, which, with the sole, were known under the
    general name of _passeres_, were all equally esteemed, and had
    generally the same qualities attributed to them.

FILLETED SOLES A L'ITALIENNE.

324. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste;
egg and bread crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon.

_Mode_.--Skin, and carefully wash the soles, separate the meat from the
bone, and divide each fillet in two pieces. Brush them over with white
of egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and seasoning, and put them in a
baking-dish. Place small pieces of butter over the whole, and bake for
1/2 hour. When they are nearly done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over
them, and serve on a dish, with Italian sauce (see Sauces) poured over.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.

WHITING may be dressed in the same manner, and will be found very
delicious.

    THE FLAVOUR OF THE SOLE.--This, as a matter of course, greatly
    depends on the nature of the ground and bait upon which the
    animal feeds. Its natural food are small crabs and shell-fish.
    Its colour also depends on the colour of the ground where it
    feeds; for if this be white, then the sole is called the white,
    or lemon sole; but if the bottom be muddy, then it is called the
    black sole. Small-sized soles, caught in shallow water on the
    coasts, are the best in flavour.

FRICASSEED SOLES.

325. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized soles, 1 small one, 1/2 teaspoonful
of chopped lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated
bread; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz. butter, 1/2 pint
of good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, cayenne and lemon-juice to
taste.

_Mode_.--Fry the soles of a nice brown, as directed in recipe No. 327,
and drain them well from fat. Take all the meat from the small sole,
chop it fine, and mix with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, and
seasoning; work altogether, with the yolk of an egg and the butter; make
this into small balls, and fry them. Thicken the gravy with a
dessert-spoonful of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, and lemon-juice;
lay in the 2 soles and balls; let them simmer gently for 6 minutes;
serve hot, and garnish with cut lemon.

_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the soles.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s.

_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

    HOW SOLES ARE CAUGHT.--The instrument usually employed is a
    trawl net, which is shaped like a pocket, of from sixty to
    eighty feet long, and open at the mouth from thirty-two to forty
    feet, and three deep. This is dragged along the ground by the
    vessel, and on the art of the fisherman in its employment, in a
    great measure depends the quality of the fish he catches. If,
    for example, he drags the net too quickly, all that are caught
    are swept rapidly to the end of the net, where they are
    smothered, and sometimes destroyed. A medium has to be observed,
    in order that as few as possible escape being caught in the net,
    and as many as possible preserved alive in it.

FRIED FILLETED SOLES.

326. Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more
easily separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and wash
the fish, and raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it
into nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets,
after dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round with
twine, or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with egg, and
cover with bread crumbs; fry them as directed in the foregoing recipe,
and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty dish is
desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as they
look much better than when fried whole. (_See_ Coloured Plate A.)
Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and
arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_,--2 large soles for 6 persons.


FRIED SOLES.

327. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized soles, hot lard or clarified
dripping, egg, and bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Skin and carefully wash the soles, and cut off the fins, wipe
them very dry, and let them remain in the cloth until it is time to
dress them. Have ready some fine bread crumbs and beaten egg; dredge the
soles with a little flour, brush them over with egg, and cover with
bread crumbs. Put them in a deep pan, with plenty of clarified dripping
or lard (when the expense is not objected to, oil is still better)
heated, so that it may neither scorch the fish nor make them sodden.
When they are sufficiently cooked on one side, turn them carefully, and
brown them on the other: they may be considered ready when a thick smoke
rises. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on a
reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat. Particular attention
should be paid to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy
fish: this may be always avoided by dressing them in good time, and
allowing a few minutes for them to get thoroughly crisp, and free from
greasy moisture. Dish them on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and
fried parsley, and send them to table with shrimp sauce and plain melted
butter.

_Time_.--10 minutes for large soles; less time for small ones.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.


SOLES WITH MUSHROOMS.

328. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz.
salt, a little lemon-juice, 2 middling-sized soles.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the soles, but do not skin them, and lay them in a
fish-kettle, with the milk, water, butter, salt, and lemon-juice. Bring
them gradually to boil, and let them simmer very gently till done, which
will be in about 7 minutes. Take them up, drain them well on a cloth,
put them on a hot dish, and pour over them a good mushroom sauce. (_See_
Sauces.)

_Time_.--After the water boils, 7 minutes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.


SPRATS.

329. Sprats should be cooked very fresh, which can be ascertained by
their bright and sparkling eyes. Wipe them dry; fasten them in rows by a
skewer run through the eyes; dredge with flour, and broil them on a
gridiron over a nice clear fire. The gridiron should be rubbed with
suet. Serve very hot.

_Time_,--3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

TO CHOOSE SPRATS.--Choose these from their silvery appearance, as the
brighter they are, so are they the fresher.


SPRATS FRIED IN BATTER.

330. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, flour, bread crumbs; seasoning of salt and
pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Wipe the sprats, and dip them in a batter made of the above
ingredients. Fry of a nice brown, serve very hot, and garnish with fried
parsley.

Sprats may be baked like herrings. (_See_ No. 268.)


DRIED SPRATS.

331. Dried sprats should be put into a basin, and boiling water poured
over them; they may then be skinned and served, and this will be found a
much better way than boiling them.

[Illustration: THE SPRAT.]

    THE SPRAT.--This migratory fish, is rarely found longer than
    four or five inches, and visits the shores of Britain after the
    herring and other kinds of fish have taken their departure from
    them. On the coasts of Suffolk, Essex, and Kent, they are very
    abundant, and from 400 to 500 boats are employed in catching
    them during the winter season. Besides plentifully supplying the
    London market, they are frequently sold at sixpence a bushel to
    farmers for manuring purposes. They enter the Thames about the
    beginning of November, and leave it in March. At Yarmouth and
    Gravesend they are cured like red herrings.

BAKED STURGEON.

332. INGREDIENTS.--1 small sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 small
bunch of herbs, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of
white wine.

_Mode_,--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, skin it, and split it along the
belly without separating it; have ready a large baking-dish, in which
lay the fish, sprinkle over the seasoning and herbs very finely minced,
and moisten it with the lemon-juice and wine. Place the butter in small
pieces over the whole of the fish, put it in the oven, and baste
frequently; brown it nicely, and serve with its own gravy.

_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

[Illustration: THE STURGEON.]

    THE STURGEON.--This fish commences the sixth of Linnaean order,
    and all the species are large, seldom measuring, when
    full-grown, less than three or four feet in length. Its flesh is
    reckoned extremely delicious, and, in the time of the emperor
    Severus, was so highly valued by the ancients, that it was
    brought to table by servants crowned with coronets, and preceded
    by a band of music. It is an inhabitant of the Baltic, the
    Mediterranean, the Caspian, and the Black Sea, and of the
    Danube, the Volga, the Don, and other large rivers. It is
    abundant in the rivers of North America, and is occasionally
    taken in the Thames, as well as in the Eske and the Eden. It is
    one of those fishes considered as royal property. It is from its
    _roe_ that _caviare_, a favourite food of the Russians, is
    prepared. Its flesh is delicate, firm, and white, but is rare in
    the London market, where it sells for 1s. or 1s. 6d. per lb.

    THE STERLET is a smaller species of sturgeon, found in the
    Caspian Sea and some Russian rivers. It also is greatly prized
    on account of the delicacy of its flesh.

ROAST STURGEON.

333. INGREDIENTS.--Veal stuffing, buttered paper, the tail-end of a
sturgeon.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish, bone and skin it; make a nice veal stuffing
(see Forcemeats), and fill it with the part where the bones came from;
roll it in buttered paper, bind it up firmly with tape, like a fillet of
veal, and roast it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Serve with good
brown gravy, or plain melted butter.

_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note_.--Sturgeon may be plain-boiled, and served with Dutch sauce. The
fish is very firm, and requires long boiling.

    ESTIMATE OF THE STURGEON BY THE ANCIENTS.--By the ancients, the
    flesh of this fish was compared to the ambrosia of the
    immortals. The poet Martial passes a high eulogium upon it, and
    assigns it a place on the luxurious tables of the Palatine
    Mount. If we may credit a modern traveller in China, the people
    of that country generally entirely abstain from it, and the
    sovereign of the Celestial Empire confines it to his own
    kitchen, or dispenses it to only a few of his greatest
    favourites.

MATELOT OF TENCH.

334. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1
dozen button onions, a few mushrooms, a faggot of herbs, 2 blades of
mace, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, thyme, 1 shalot,
2 anchovies, 1 teacupful of stock No. 105, flour, 1 dozen oysters, the
juice of 1/2 lemon; the number of tench, according to size.

_Mode_.--Scale and clean the tench, cut them into pieces, and lay them
in a stewpan; add the stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, herbs, and mace,
and simmer gently for 1/2 hour. Put into another stewpan all the
remaining ingredients but the oysters and lemon-juice, and boil slowly
for 10 minutes, when add the strained liquor from the tench, and keep
stirring it over the fire until somewhat reduced. Rub it through a
sieve, pour it over the tench with the oysters, which must be previously
scalded in their own liquor, squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve.
Garnish with croutons.

_Time_. 3/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ from October to June.

[Illustration: THE TENCH.]

    THE TENCH.--This fish is generally found in foul and weedy
    waters, and in such places as are well supplied with rushes.
    They thrive best in standing waters, and are more numerous in
    pools and ponds than in rivers. Those taken in the latter,
    however, are preferable for the table. It does not often exceed
    four or five pounds in weight, and is in England esteemed as a
    delicious and wholesome food. As, however, they are sometimes
    found in waters where the mud is excessively fetid, their
    flavour, if cooked immediately on being caught, is often very
    unpleasant; but if they are transferred into clear water, they
    soon recover from the obnoxious taint.

TENCH STEWED WITH WINE.

335. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of Madeira or
sherry, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, thickening of butter and
flour.

_Mode_.--Clean and crimp the tench; carefully lay it in a stewpan with
the stock, wine, salt and pepper, and bay-leaf; let it stew gently for
1/2 hour; then take it out, put it on a dish, and keep hot. Strain the
liquor, and thicken it with butter and flour kneaded together, and stew
for 5 minutes. If not perfectly smooth, squeeze it through a tammy, add
a very little cayenne, and pour over the fish. Garnish with balls of
veal forcemeat.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ from October to June.

    A SINGULAR QUALITY IN THE TENCH.--It is said that the tench is
    possessed of such healing properties among the finny tribes,
    that even the voracious pike spares it on this account.

      The pike, fell tyrant of the liquid plain,
      With ravenous waste devours his fellow train;
      Yet howsoe'er with raging famine pined,
      The tench he spares, a medicinal kind;
      For when by wounds distress'd, or sore disease,
      He courts the salutary fish for ease;
      Close to his scales the kind physician glides,
      And sweats a healing balsam from his sides.

    In our estimation, however, this self-denial in the pike may be
    attributed to a less poetical cause; namely, from the mud-loving
    disposition of the tench, it is enabled to keep itself so
    completely concealed at the bottom of its aqueous haunts, that
    it remains secure from the attacks of its predatory neighbour.

STEWED TROUT.

336. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized trout, 1/2 onion cut in thin slices,
a little parsley, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little
thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of medium stock No. 105, 1 glass
of port wine, thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Wash the fish very clean, and wipe it quite dry. Lay it in a
stewpan, with all the ingredients but the butter and flour, and simmer
gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, should not the fish be quite done.
Take it out, strain the gravy, add the thickening, and stir it over a
sharp fire for 5 minutes; pour it over the trout, and serve.

_Time_.--According to size, 1/2 hour or more.

_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.

_Seasonable_ from May to September, and fatter from the middle to the
end of August than at any other time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

Trout may be served with anchovy or caper sauce, baked in buttered
paper, or fried whole like smelts. Trout dressed a la Génévese is
extremely delicate; for this proceed the same as with salmon, No. 307.

[Illustration: THE TROUT.]

    THE TROUT.--This fish, though esteemed by the moderns for its
    delicacy, was little regarded by the ancients. Although it
    abounded in the lakes of the Roman empire, it is generally
    mentioned by writers only on account of the beauty of its
    colours. About the end of September, they quit the deep water to
    which they had retired during the hot weather, for the purpose
    of spawning. This they always do on a gravelly bottom, or where
    gravel and sand are mixed among stones, towards the end or by
    the sides of streams. At this period they become black about the
    head and body, and become soft and unwholesome. They are never
    good when they are large with roe; but there are in all trout
    rivers some barren female fish, which continue good throughout
    the winter. In the common trout, the stomach is uncommonly
    strong and muscular, shell-fish forming a portion of the food of
    the animal; and it takes into its stomach gravel or small stones
    in order to assist in comminuting it.

BOILED TURBOT.

337. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_--Choose a middling-sized turbot; for they are invariably the most
valuable: if very large, the meat will be tough and thready. Three or
four hours before dressing, soak the fish in salt and water to take off
the slime; then thoroughly cleanse it, and with a knife make an incision
down the middle of the back, to prevent the skin of the belly from
cracking. Rub it over with lemon, and be particular not to cut off the
fins. Lay the fish in a very clean turbot-kettle, with sufficient cold
water to cover it, and salt in the above proportion. Let it gradually
come to a boil, and skim very carefully; keep it gently simmering, and
on no account let it boil fast, as the fish would have a very unsightly
appearance. When the meat separates easily from the bone, it is done;
then take it out, let it drain well, and dish it on a hot napkin. Rub a
little lobster spawn through a sieve, sprinkle it over the fish, and
garnish with tufts of parsley and cut lemon. Lobster or shrimp sauce,
and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. (See Coloured
Plate E.)

_Time_.--After the water boils, about 1/2 hour for a large turbot;
middling size, about 20 minutes.

_Average cost_,--large turbot, from 10s. to 12s.; middling size, from
12s. to 15s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_, 1 middling-sized turbot for 8 persons.

_Note_.--An amusing anecdote is related, by Miss Edgeworth, of a bishop,
who, descending to his kitchen to superintend the dressing of a turbot,
and discovering that his cook had stupidly cut off the fins, immediately
commenced sewing them on again with his own episcopal fingers. This
dignitary knew the value of a turbot's gelatinous appendages.


GARNISH FOR TURBOT OR OTHER LARGE FISH.

338. Take the crumb of a stale loaf, cut it into small pyramids with
flat tops, and on the top of each pyramid, put rather more than a
tablespoonful of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over this,
sprinkle finely-chopped parsley and fine raspings of a dark colour.
Arrange these on the napkin round the fish, one green and one brown
alternately.

TO CHOOSE TURBOT.--See that it is thick, and of a yellowish white; for
if of a bluish tint, it is not good.

[Illustration: THE TURBOT.]

    THE TURBOT.--This is the most esteemed of all our flat fish. The
    northern parts of the English coast, and some places off the
    coast of Holland, produce turbot in great abundance, and in
    greater excellence than any other parts of the world. The London
    market is chiefly supplied by Dutch fishermen, who bring to it
    nearly 90,000 a year. The flesh is firm, white, rich, and
    gelatinous, and is the better for being kept a day or two
    previous to cooking it. In many parts of the country, turbot and
    halibut are indiscriminately sold for each other. They are,
    however, perfectly distinct; the upper parts of the former being
    marked with large, unequal, and obtuse tubercles, while those of
    the other are quite smooth, and covered with oblong soft scales,
    which firmly adhere to the body.

[Illustration: TURBOT-KETTLE.]

    FISH-KETTLES are made in an oblong form, and have two handles,
    with a movable bottom, pierced full of holes, on which the fish
    is laid, and on which it may be lifted from the water, by means
    of two long handles attached to each side of the movable bottom.
    This is to prevent the liability of breaking the fish, as it
    would necessarily be if it were cooked in a common saucepan. In
    the list of Messrs. Richard and John Slack (see 71), the price
    of two of these is set down at 10s. The turbot-kettle, as will
    be seen by our cut, is made differently from ordinary
    fish-kettles, it being less deep, whilst it is wider, and more
    pointed at the sides; thus exactly answering to the shape of the
    fish which it is intended should be boiled in it. It may be
    obtained from the same manufacturers, and its price is £1.

BAKED FILLETS OF TURBOT.

339. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot, lobster sauce left from
the preceding day, egg, and bread crumbs; cayenne and salt to taste;
minced parsley, nutmeg, lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--After having cleared the fish from all skin and bone, divide it
into square pieces of an equal size; brush them over with egg, sprinkle
with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley and seasoning. Lay
the fillets in a baking-dish, with sufficient butter to baste with. Bake
for 1/4 hour, and do not forget to keep them well moistened with the
butter. Put a little lemon-juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobster
sauce; make it hot, and pour over the fish, which must be well drained
from the butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will be
found much nicer than putting the fish again in water.


FILLETS OF TURBOT A L'ITALIENNE.

340. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot, Italian sauce. (See
Sauces.)

_Mode_.--Clear the fish carefully from the bone, and take away all skin,
which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sauce. Make the sauce hot, lay
in the fish to warm through, but do not let it boil. Garnish with
croutons.

_Time_.--5 minutes.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

    THE ANCIENT ROMANS' ESTIMATE OF TURBOT.--As this luxurious
    people compared soles to partridges, and sturgeons to peacocks,
    so they found a resemblance to the turbot in the pheasant. In
    the time of Domitian, it is said one was taken of such
    dimensions as to require, in the imperial kitchen, a new stove
    to be erected, and a new dish to be made for it, in order that
    it might be cooked and served whole: not even imperial Rome
    could furnish a stove or a dish large enough for the monstrous
    animal. Where it was caught, we are not aware; but the turbot of
    the Adriatic Sea held a high rank in the "Eternal City."

TURBOT A LA CREME.

341. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot. For sauce, 2 oz. of
butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to
taste.

_Mode_.--Clear away all skin and bone from the flesh of the turbot,
which should be done when it comes from table, as it causes less waste
when trimmed hot. Cut the flesh into nice square pieces, as equally as
possible; put into a stewpan the butter, let it melt, and add the cream
and seasoning; let it just simmer for one minute, but not boil. Lay in
the fish to warm, and serve it garnished with croutons or a paste
border.

_Time_.--10 minutes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The remains of cold salmon may be dressed in this way, and the
above mixture may be served in a _vol-au-vent_.


TURBOT AU GRATIN.

342. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of cold turbot, béchamel (_see_ Sauces),
bread crumbs, butter.

_Mode_.--Cut the flesh of the turbot into small dice, carefully freeing
it from all skin and bone. Put them into a stewpan, and moisten with 4
or 5 tablespoonfuls of béchamel. Let it get thoroughly hot, but do not
allow it to boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, cover with finely-grated
bread crumbs, and place small pieces of butter over the top. Brown it in
the oven, or with a salamander.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BOILED WHITING.

343. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish, but do not skin them; lay them in a
fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover them, and salt in the
above proportion. Bring them gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for
about 5 minutes, or rather more should the fish be very large. Dish them
on a hot napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Serve with anchovy
or caper sauce, and plain melted butter.

_Time_.--After the water boils, 5 minutes.

_Average cost_ for small whitings, 4d. each.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.

_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person.

To CHOOSE WHITING.--Choose for the firmness of its flesh and the silvery
hue of its appearance.

[Illustration: THE WHITING.]

    The Whiting.--This fish forms a light, tender, and delicate
    food, easy of digestion. It appears in our seas in the spring,
    within three miles of the shores, where it arrives in large
    shoals to deposit its spawn. It is caught by line, and is
    usually between ten and twelve inches long, and seldom exceeding
    a pound and a half in weight. On the edge of the Dogger Bank,
    however, it has been caught so heavy as to weigh from three to
    seven or eight pounds. When less than six inches long, it is not
    allowed to be caught.

BROILED WHITING.

344. INGREDIENTS.--Salt and water, flour.

_Mode_.--Wash the whiting in salt and water, wipe them thoroughly, and
let them remain in the cloth to absorb all moisture. Flour them well,
and broil over a very clear fire. Serve with _maître d'hôtel_ sauce, or
plain melted butter (_see_ Sauces). Be careful to preserve the liver, as
by some it is considered very delicate.

_Time_.--5 minutes for a small whiting. _Average cost_, 4d. each.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.

_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person.

Buckhorn.--Whitings caught in Cornwall are salted and dried, and in
winter taken to the markets, and sold under the singular name of
"Buckhorn."


FRIED WHITING.

345. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour, hot lard or
clarified dripping.

_Mode_.--Take off the skin, clean, and thoroughly wipe the fish free
from all moisture, as this is most essential, in order that the egg and
bread crumbs may properly adhere. Fasten the tail in the mouth by means
of a small skewer, brush the fish over with egg, dredge with a little
flour, and cover with bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarified
dripping of a nice colour, and serve them on a napkin, garnished with
fried parsley. (See Coloured Plate D.) Send them to table with shrimp
sauce and plain melted butter.

_Time_.--About 6 minutes. Average cost, 4d. each.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.

_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person.

_Note_.--Large whitings may be filleted, rolled, and served as fried
filleted soles (_see_ Coloured Plato A). Small fried whitings are
frequently used for garnishing large boiled fish, such as turbot, cod,
etc.


WHITING AU GRATIN, or BAKED WHITING.

346. INGREDIENTS.--4 whiting, butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley,
a few chopped mushrooms when obtainable; pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg
to taste; butter, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Grease the bottom of a baking-dish with butter, and over it,
strew some minced parsley and mushrooms. Scale, empty, and wash the
whitings, and wipe them thoroughly dry, carefully preserving the livers.
Lay them in the dish, sprinkle them with bread crumbs and seasoning,
adding a little grated nutmeg, and also a little more minced parsley and
mushrooms. Place small pieces of butter over the whiting, moisten with
the wine, and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven. If there should be too
much sauce, reduce it by boiling over a sharp fire for a few minutes,
and pour under the fish. Serve with a cut lemon, and no other sauce.

_Time_.---20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. each.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.

_Sufficient_.--This quantity for 4 or 5 persons.


WHITING AUX FINE HERBES.

347. INGREDIENTS.-1 bunch of sweet herbs chopped very fine; butter.

_Mode_.--Clean and skin the fish, fasten the tails in the mouths; and lay
them in a baking-dish. Mince the herbs very fine, strew them over the
fish, and place small pieces of butter over; cover with another dish,
and let them simmer in a Dutch oven for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Turn the
fish once or twice, and serve with the sauce poured over.

_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. each.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.

_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person.

    THE WHITING POUT, AND POLLACK.--About the mouth of the Thames,
    and generally all round the English coasts, as well as in the
    northern seas, the pout is plentiful. It bears a striking
    resemblance to the whiting, and is esteemed as an excellent
    fish.--The _pollack_ is also taken all round our coasts, and
    likewise bears a striking resemblance to the whiting; indeed, it
    is sometimes mistaken by the inexperienced for that fish; its
    flesh being considered by many equally delicate.

TO DRESS WHITEBAIT.

348. INGREDIENTS.--A little flour, hot lard, seasoning of salt.

_Mode_.--This fish should be put into iced water as soon as bought,
unless they are cooked immediately. Drain them from the water in a
colander, and have ready a nice clean dry cloth, over which put 2 good
handfuls of flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake them lightly in the
cloth, and put them in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluous
flour. Throw them into a pan of boiling lard, very few at a time, and
let them fry till of a whitey-brown colour. Directly they are done, they
must he taken out, and laid before the fire for a minute or two on a
sieve reversed, covered with blotting-paper to absorb the fat. Dish them
on a hot napkin, arrange the fish very high in the centre, and sprinkle
a little salt over the whole.

_Time_.--3 minutes.

_Seasonable _from April to August.

[Illustration: WHITEBAIT.]

    WHITEBAIT.--This highly-esteemed little fish appears in
    innumerable multitudes in the river Thames, near Greenwich and
    Blackwall, during the month of July, when it forms, served with
    lemon and brown bread and butter, a tempting dish to vast
    numbers of Londoners, who flock to the various taverns of these
    places, in order to gratify their appetites. The fish has been
    supposed be the fry of the shad, the sprat, the smelt, or the
    bleak. Mr. Yarrell, however, maintains that it is a species in
    itself, distinct from every other fish. When fried with flour,
    it is esteemed a great delicacy. The ministers of the Crown have
    had a custom, for many years, of having a "whitebait dinner"
    just before the close of the session. It is invariably the
    precursor of the prorogation of Parliament, and the repast is
    provided by the proprietor of the "Trafalgar," Greenwich.

FISH PIE, WITH TENCH AND EELS.

349. INGREDIENTS.--2 tench, 2 eels, 2 onions, a faggot of herbs, 4
blades of mace, 3 anchovies, 1 pint of water, pepper and salt to taste,
1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs, puff
paste.

_Mode_.--Clean and bone the tench, skin and bone the eels, and cut them
into pieces 2 inches long, and leave the sides of the tench whole. Put
the bones into a stewpan with the onions, herbs, mace, anchovies, water,
and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain it off, put
it to cool, and skim off all the fat. Lay the tench and eels in a
pie-dish, and between each layer put seasoning, chopped parsley, and
hard-boiled eggs; pour in part of the strained liquor, cover in with
puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour or rather more. The oven should be
rather quick, and when done, heat the remainder of the liquor, which
pour into the pie.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to bake, or rather more if the oven is slow.


FISH SCALLOP.

I.

350. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of cold fish of any sort, 1/2 pint of cream,
1/2 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 teaspoonful of made mustard,
ditto of walnut ketchup, pepper and salt to taste (the above quantities
are for 1/2 lb. of fish when picked); bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully picking the
fish from the bones; set it on the fire, let it remain till nearly hot,
occasionally stir the contents, but do not allow it to boil. When done,
put the fish into a deep dish or scallop shell, with a good quantity of
bread crumbs; place small pieces of butter on the top, set in a Dutch
oven before the fire to brown, or use a salamander.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 10d.


II.

351. INGREDIENTS.--Any cold fish, 1 egg, milk, 1 large blade of pounded
mace, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, pepper
and salt to taste, bread crumbs, butter.

_Mode_.--Pick the fish carefully from the bones, and moisten with milk
and the egg; add the other ingredients, and place in a deep dish or
scallop shells; cover with bread crumbs, butter the top, and brown
before the fire; when quite hot, serve.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 4d.

WATER SOUCHY.

352. Perch, tench, soles, eels, and flounders are considered the best
fish for this dish. For the souchy, put some water into a stewpan with a
bunch of chopped parsley, some roots, and sufficient salt to make it
brackish. Let these simmer for 1 hour, and then stew the fish in this
water. When they are done, take them out to drain, have ready some
finely-chopped parsley, and a few roots cut into slices of about one
inch thick and an inch in length. Put the fish in a tureen or deep dish,
strain the liquor over them, and add the minced parsley and roots. Serve
with brown bread and butter.

353. SUPPLY OF FISH TO THE LONDON MARKET.--From Mr. Mayhew's work on
"London Labour and the London Poor," and other sources, we are enabled
to give the following table of the total annual supply of fish to the
London market:--


         Description of Fish.                Number of      Weight of
                                               Fish       Fish in lbs
              WET FISH.

  Salmon and Salmon-Trout(29,000 boxes,
  14 fish per box)                            406,000       3,480,000
  Turbot, from 8 to 16 lbs.                   800,000       5,600,000
  Live Cod, averaging 10 lbs. each            400,000       4,000,000
  Soles, averaging 1/4 lbs. each           97,520,000      26,880,000
  Brill and Mullet, averaging 3 lbs. each   1,220,000       3,366,000
  Whiting, averaging 6 oz. each            17,920,000       6,720,000
  Haddock, averaging 2 lbs. each            2,470,000       4,940,000
  Plaice, averaging 1 lb. each             33,600,000      33,600,000
  Mackerel, averaging 1 lb ach             23,520,000      23,520,000
  Fresh herrings (250,000 barrels, 700
  fish per barrel)                        175,000,000      42,000,000
    Ditto in bulk                       1,050,000,000     252,000,000
  Sprats                                      --            4,000,000
  Eels (from Holland principally)
  England and Ireland                       9,797,760       1,632,960
  Flounders                                   259,200          48,200
  Dabs                                        270,000          48,750

          DRY FISH.

  Barrelled Cod(15,000 barrels, 40 fish
  per barrel)                                 750,000       4,200,000
  Dried Salt Cod, 5 lbs each                1,600,000       8,000,000
  Smoked Haddock(65,000 barrels, 300
  fish per barrel)                         19,500,000      10,920,000
  Bloaters, 265,000 baskets(150 fish
  per basket)                             147,000,000      10,600,000
  Red Herrings, 100,000 barrels(500
  fish per barrel)                         50,000,000      14,000,000
  Dried Sprats, 9,600 large bundles
  (30 fish per bundle)                        288,000           9,600

          SHELL FISH.

  Oysters                                 495,896,000
  Lobsters, averaging 1 lb each             1,200,000       1,200,000
  Crabs, averaging 1 lb each                  600,000         600,000
  Shrimps, 324 to a pint                  498,428,648
  Whelks, 227 to a half-bushel              4,943,200
  Mussels, 1000 to ditto                   50,400,000
  Cockles, 2000 to ditto                   67,392,000
  Periwinkles, 4000 to ditto              304,000,000

The whole of the above may be, in round numbers, reckoned to amount to
the enormous number of 3,000,000,000 fish, with a weight of 300,000
tons.


ADDENDUM AND ANECDOTE.

It will be seen, from the number and variety of the recipes which we
have been enabled to give under the head of FISH, that there exists in
the salt ocean, and fresh-water rivers, an abundance of aliment, which
the present state of gastronomic art enables the cook to introduce to
the table in the most agreeable forms, and oftentimes at a very moderate
cost.

Less nutritious as a food than the flesh of animals, more succulent than
vegetables, fish may be termed a middle dish, suited to all temperaments
and constitutions; and one which those who are recovering from illness
may partake of with safety and advantage.

As to which is the best fish, there has been much discussion. The old
Latin proverb, however, _de gustibus non disputandum_, and the more
modern Spanish one, _sobre los gustos no hai disputa_, declare, with
equal force, that where _taste_ is concerned, no decision can be arrived
at. Each person's palate may be differently affected--pleased or
displeased; and there is no standard by which to judge why a red mullet,
a sole, or a turbot, should be better or worse than a salmon, trout,
pike, or a tiny tench.

Fish, as we have explained, is less nourishing than meat; for it is
lighter in weight, size for size, and contains no ozmazome (_see_ No.
100). Shell-fish, oysters particularly, furnish but little nutriment;
and this is the reason why so many of the latter can be eaten without
injury to the system.

In Brillat Savarin's [Footnote: Brillat Savarin was a French lawyer and
judge of considerable eminence and great talents, and wrote, under the
above title, a book on gastronomy, full of instructive information,
enlivened with a fund of pleasantly-told anecdote.] clever and amusing
volume, "The Physiology of Taste," he says, that towards the end of the
eighteenth century it was a most common thing for a well-arranged
entertainment in Paris to commence with oysters, and that many guests
were not contented without swallowing twelve dozen. Being anxious to
know the weight of this advanced-guard, he ascertained that a dozen
oysters, fluid included, weighed 4 ounces,--thus, the twelve dozen would
weigh about 3 lbs.; and there can be no doubt, that the same persons who
made no worse a dinner on account of having partaken of the oysters,
would have been completely satisfied if they had eaten the same weight
of chicken or mutton. An anecdote, perfectly well authenticated, is
narrated of a French gentleman (M. Laperte), residing at Versailles, who
was extravagantly fond of oysters, declaring he never had enough.
Savarin resolved to procure him the satisfaction, and gave him an
invitation to dinner, which was duly accepted. The guest arrived, and
his host kept company with him in swallowing the delicious bivalves up
to the tenth dozen, when, exhausted, he gave up, and let M. Laperte go
on alone. This gentleman managed to eat thirty-two dozen within an hour,
and would doubtless have got through more, but the person who opened
them is described as not being very skilful. In the interim Savarin was
idle, and at length, tired with his painful state of inaction, he said
to Laperte, whilst the latter was still in full career, "Mon cher, you
will not eat as many oysters to-day as you meant; let us dine." They
dined, and the insatiable oyster-eater acted at the repast as if he had
fasted for a week.


FISH CARVING.


GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH.

In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes, as,
if these are broken, the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver should
be acquainted, too, with the choicest parts and morsels; and to give
each guest an equal share of these _titbits_ should be his maxim. Steel
knives and forks should on no account be used in helping fish, as these
are liable to impart to it a very disagreeable flavour. Where silver
fish-carvers are considered too dear to be bought, good electro-plated
ones answer very well, and are inexpensive. The prices set down for them
by Messrs. Slack, of the Strand, are from a guinea upwards.


COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.

(For recipe, see No. 232; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate C.)

[Illustration]

First run the knife along the centre of the side of the fish, namely,
from _d_ to _b_, down to the bone; then carve it in unbroken slices
downwards from _d_ to _e_, or upwards from _d_ to _c_, as shown in the
engraving. The carver should ask the guests if they would like a portion
of the roe and liver.

_Note_.--Of this fish, the parts about the backbone and shoulders are
the firmest, and most esteemed by connoisseurs. The sound, which lines
the fish beneath the backbone, is considered a delicacy, as are also the
gelatinous parts about the head and neck.


SALMON.

(For recipe, see No. 301; and for mode of dressing, Coloured Plate B.)

[Illustration]

First run the knife quite down to the bone, along the side of the fish,
from _a_ to _b_, and also from _c_ to _d_. Then help the thick part
lengthwise, that is, in the direction of the lines from _a_ to _b_; and
the thin part breadthwise, that is, in the direction of the lines from
_e_ to _f_, as shown in the engraving. A slice of the thick part should
always be accompanied by a smaller piece of the thin from the belly,
where lies the fat of the fish.

_Note_.--Many persons, in carving salmon, make the mistake of slicing
the thick part of this fish in the opposite direction to that we have
stated; and thus, by the breaking of the flakes, the beauty of its
appearance is destroyed.


BOILED OR FRIED SOLE.

(For recipes, see Nos. 321 and 327.)

The usual way of helping this fish is to cut it quite through, bone and
all, distributing it in nice and not too large pieces. A
moderately-sized sole will be sufficient for three slices; namely, the
head, middle, and tail. The guests should be asked which of these they
prefer. A small one will only give two slices. If the sole is very
large, the upper side may be raised from the bone, and then divided into
pieces; and the under side afterwards served in the same way.

In helping FILLETED SOLES, one fillet is given to each person. (For mode
of serving, see Coloured Plate A.)


TURBOT.

(For recipe, see No. 337; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate E.)

First run the fish-slice down the thickest part of the fish, quite
through to the bone, from _a_ to _b_, and then cut handsome and regular
slices in the direction of the lines downwards, from _c_ to _e_, and
upwards from _c_ to _d_, as shown in the engraving. When the carver has
removed all the meat from the upper side of the fish, the backbone
should be raised, put on one side of the dish, and the under side helped
as the upper.


A BRILL and JOHN DORY are carved in the same manner as a Turbot.

[Illustration]

_Note_.--The thick parts of the middle of the back are the best slices
in a turbot; and the rich gelatinous skin covering the fish, as well as
a little of the thick part of the fins, are dainty morsels, and should
be placed on each plate.


WHITING, &c.

Whiting, pike, haddock, and other fish, when of a sufficiently large
size, may be carved in the same manner as salmon. When small, they may
be cut through, bone and all, and helped in nice pieces, a
middling-sized whiting serving for two slices.

_Note_.--The THICK part of the EEL is reckoned the best; and this holds
good of all flat fish.

The TAIL of the LOBSTER is the prime part, and next to that the CLAWS.

[Illustration: FISH CARVERS.]




[Illustration]

SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS.


CHAPTER IX.


GENERAL REMARKS.

354. AN ANECDOTE IS TOLD of the prince de Soubise, who, intending to
give an entertainment, asked for the bill of fare. His _chef_ came,
presenting a list adorned with vignettes, and the first article of
which, that met the prince's eye, was "fifty hams." "Bertrand," said the
prince, "I think you must be extravagant; Fifty hams! do you intend to
feast my whole regiment?" "No, Prince, there will be but one on the
table, and the surplus I need for my Espagnole, blondes, garnitures,
&c." "Bertrand, you are robbing me: this item will not do."
"Monseigneur," said the _artiste_, "you do not appreciate me. Give me
the order, and I will put those fifty hams in a crystal flask no longer
than my thumb." The prince smiled, and the hams were passed. This was
all very well for the prince de Soubise; but as we do not write for
princes and nobles alone, but that our British sisters may make the best
dishes out of the least expensive ingredients, we will also pass the
hams, and give a few general directions concerning Sauces, &c.

355. THE PREPARATION AND APPEARANCE OF SAUCES AND GRAVIES are of the
highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the
cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the various
viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that
they may harmonize and blend with them as perfectly, so to speak, as
does a pianoforte accompaniment with the voice of the singer.

356. THE GENERAL BASIS OF MOST GRAVIES and some sauces is the same stock
as that used for soups (_see_ Nos. 104, 105, 106, and 107); and, by the
employment of these, with, perhaps, an additional slice of ham, a little
spice, a few herbs, and a slight flavouring from some cold sauce or
ketchup, very nice gravies may be made for a very small expenditure. A
milt (either of a bullock or sheep), the shank-end of mutton that has
already been dressed, and the necks and feet of poultry, may all be
advantageously used for gravy, where much is not required. It may, then,
be established as a rule, that there exists no necessity for good
gravies to be expensive, and that there is no occasion, as many would
have the world believe, to buy ever so many pounds of fresh meat, in
order to furnish an ever so little quantity of gravy.

357. BROWN SAUCES, generally speaking, should scarcely be so thick as
white sauces; and it is well to bear in mind, that all those which are
intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, should be of a
sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over
which they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, &c., browned
flour may be properly employed.

358. SAUCES SHOULD POSSESS A DECIDED CHARACTER; and whether sharp or
sweet, savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct
manner, although, of course, not so much flavoured as to make them too
piquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other.

359. GRAVIES AND SAUCES SHOULD BE SENT TO TABLE VERY HOT; and there is
all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as, from their
being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool
quickly than if they were in a larger body. Those sauces, of which cream
or eggs form a component part, should be well stirred, as soon as these
ingredients are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil; as, in
that case, they would instantly curdle.

360. ALTHOUGH PICKLES MAY BE PURCHASED at shops at as low a rate as they
can usually be made for at home, or perhaps even for less, yet we would
advise all housewives, who have sufficient time and convenience, to
prepare their own. The only general rules, perhaps, worth stating
here,--as in the recipes all necessary details will be explained, are,
that the vegetables and fruits used should be sound, and not over ripe,
and that the very best vinegar should be employed.

361. FOR FORCEMEATS, SPECIAL ATTENTION IS NECESSARY. The points which
cooks should, in this branch of cookery, more particularly observe, are
the thorough chopping of the suet, the complete mincing of the herbs,
the careful grating of the bread-crumbs, and the perfect mixing of the
whole. These are the three principal ingredients of forcemeats, and they
can scarcely be cut too small, as nothing like a lump or fibre should be
anywhere perceptible. To conclude, the flavour of no one spice or herb
should be permitted to predominate.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER X.


SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS.


ANCHOVY SAUCE FOR FISH.

362. INGREDIENTS.--4 anchovies, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of melted
butter, cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Bone the anchovies, and pound them in a mortar to a paste, with
1 oz. of butter. Make the melted butter hot, stir in the pounded
anchovies and cayenne; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes; and if liked, add a
squeeze of lemon-juice. A more general and expeditious way of making
this sauce is to stir in 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of anchovy essence to 1/2
pint of melted butter, and to add seasoning to taste. Boil the whole up
for 1 minute, and serve hot.

_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, 5d. for 1/2 pint.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a brill, small turbot, 3 or 4 soles,
&c.

ANCHOVY BUTTER (_see_ No. 227).

[Illustration: THE CAPISCUM.]

    CAYENNE.--This is the most acrid and stimulating spice with
    which we are acquainted. It is a powder prepared from several
    varieties of the capsicum annual East-India plants, of which
    there are three so far naturalized in this country as to be able
    to grow in the open air: these are the Guinea, the Cherry, and
    the Bell pepper. All the pods of these are extremely pungent to
    the taste, and in the green state are used by us as a pickle.
    When ripe, they are ground into cayenne pepper, and sold as a
    condiment. The best of this, however, is made in the West
    Indies, from what is called the _Bird_ pepper, on account of
    hens and turkeys being extremely partial to it. It is imported
    ready for use. Of the capiscum species of plants there are five;
    but the principal are,--1. _Capsicum annuum_, the common
    long-podded capsicum, which is cultivated in our gardens, and of
    which there are two varieties, one with red, and another with
    yellow fruit. 2. _Capsicum baccatum_, or bird pepper, which
    rises with a shrubby stalk four or five feet high, with its
    berries growing at the division of the branches: this is small,
    oval-shaped, and of a bright-red colour, from which, as we have
    said, the best cayenne is made. 3. _Capsicum grossum_, the
    bell-pepper: the fruit of this is red, and is the only kind fit
    for pickling.

APPLE SAUCE FOR GEESE, PORK, &c.

363. INGREDIENTS.--6 good-sized apples, sifted sugar to taste, a piece
of butter the size of a walnut, water.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and quarter the apples, and throw them into cold
water to preserve their whiteness. Put them in a saucepan, with
sufficient water to moisten them, and boil till soft enough to pulp.
Beat them up, adding sugar to taste, and a small piece of butter This
quantity is sufficient for a good-sized tureen.

_Time_.--According to the apples, about 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a goose or couple of ducks.


BROWN APPLE SAUCE.

364. INGREDIENTS.--6 good-sized apples, 1/2 pint of brown gravy, cayenne
to taste.

_Mode_. Put the gravy in a stewpan, and add the apples, after having
pared, cored, and quartered them. Let them simmer gently till tender;
beat them to a pulp, and season with cayenne. This sauce is preferred by
many to the preceding.

_Time_.--According to the apples, about 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d.


ASPARAGUS SAUCE.

365. INGREDIENTS.--1 bunch of green asparagus, salt, 1 oz. of fresh
butter, 1 small bunch of parsley, 3 or 4 green onions, 1 large lump of
sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of sauce tournée.

_Mode_.--Break the asparagus in the tender part, wash well, and put them
into boiling salt and water to render them green. When they are tender,
take them out, and put them into cold water; drain them on a cloth till
all moisture is absorbed from them. Put the butter in a stewpan, with
the parsley and onions; lay in the asparagus, and fry the whole over a
sharp fire for 5 minutes. Add salt, the sugar and sauce tournée, and
simmer for another 5 minutes. Rub all through a tammy, and if not a very
good colour, use a little spinach green. This sauce should be rather
sweet.

_Time_.--Altogether 40 minutes.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 4d.


ASPIC, or ORNAMENTAL SAVOURY JELLY.

366. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, 1 cow-heel, 3 or 4 slices
of ham, any poultry trimmings, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury
herbs, 1 glass of sherry, 3 quarts of water; seasoning to taste of salt
and whole white pepper; 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Lay the ham on the bottom of a stewpan, cut up the veal and
cow-heel into small pieces, and lay them on the ham; add the poultry
trimmings, vegetables, herbs, sherry, and water, and let the whole
simmer very gently for 4 hours, carefully taking away all scum that may
rise to the surface; strain through a fine sieve, and pour into an
earthen pan to get cold. Have ready a clean stewpan, put in the jelly,
and be particular to leave the sediment behind, or it will not be clear.
Add the whites of 3 eggs, with salt and pepper, to clarify; keep
stirring over the fire, till the whole becomes very white; then draw it
to the side, and let it stand till clear. When this is the case, strain
it through a cloth or jelly-bag, and use it for moulding poultry, etc.
(See Explanation of French Terms, page 44.) Tarragon vinegar may be
added to give an additional flavour.

_Time_.--Altogether 4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 4s.

    WHITE PEPPER.--This is the produce of the same plant as that
    which produces the black pepper, from which it is manufactured
    by steeping this in lime and water, and rubbing it between the
    hands till the coats come off. The best berries only will bear
    this operation; hence the superior qualities of white pepper
    fetch a higher price than those of the other. It is less acrid
    than the black, and is much prized among the Chinese. It is
    sometimes adulterated with rice-flour, as the black is with
    burnt bread. The berries of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of
    from twenty to thirty, and are, when ripe, of a bright-red
    colour. After being gathered, which is done when they are green,
    they are spread out in the sun, where they dry and become black
    and shrivelled, when they are ready for being prepared for the
    market.

BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE.

367. INGREDIENTS.--1 small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, 1/2 bay-leaf, 1
small faggot of savoury herbs, salt to taste; 3 or 4 mushrooms, when
obtainable; 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of cream, 1 tablespoonful of
arrowroot.

_Mode_.--Put the stock into a stewpan, with the parsley, cloves,
bay-leaf, herbs, and mushrooms; add a seasoning of salt, but no pepper,
as that would give the sauce a dusty appearance, and should be avoided.
When it has boiled long enough to extract the flavour of the herbs,
etc., strain it, and boil it up quickly again, until it is nearly
half-reduced. Now mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cream, and let it
simmer very gently for 5 minutes over a slow fire; pour to it the
reduced stock, and continue to simmer slowly for 10 minutes, if the
sauce be thick. If, on the contrary, it be too thin, it must be stirred
over a sharp fire till it thickens. This is the foundation of many kinds
of sauces, especially white sauces. Always make it thick, as you can
easily thin it with cream, milk, or white stock.

_Time_.--Altogether, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per pint.

[Illustration: THE CLOVE.]

    THE CLOVE.--The clove-tree is a native of the Molucca Islands,
    particularly Amboyna, and attains the height of a laurel-tree,
    and no verdure is ever seen under it. From the extremities of
    the branches quantities of flowers grow, first white; then they
    become green, and next red and hard, when they have arrived at
    their clove state. When they become dry, they assume a yellowish
    hue, which subsequently changes into a dark brown. As an
    aromatic, the clove is highly stimulating, and yields an
    abundance of oil. There are several varieties of the clove; the
    best is called the _royal clove_, which is scarce, and which is
    blacker and smaller than the other kinds. It is a curious fact,
    that the flowers, when fully developed, are quite inodorous, and
    that the real fruit is not in the least aromatic. The form is
    that of a nail, having a globular head, formed of the four
    petals of the corolla, and four leaves of the calyx not
    expanded, with a nearly cylindrical germen, scarcely an inch in
    length, situate below.

BECHAMEL MAIGRE, or WITHOUT MEAT.

368. INGREDIENTS.--2 onions, 1 blade of mace, mushroom trimmings, a
small bunch of parsley, 1 oz. of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1
pint of milk, salt, the juice of 1 lemon, 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put in a stewpan the milk, and 1/2 pint of water, with the
onions, mace, mushrooms, parsley, and salt. Let these simmer gently for
20 minutes. In the mean time, rub on a plate 1 oz. of flour and butter;
put it to the liquor, and stir it well till it boils up; then place it
by the side of the fire, and continue stirring until it is perfectly
smooth. Now strain it through a sieve into a basin, after which put it
back in the stewpan, and add the lemon-juice. Beat up the yolks of the
eggs with about 4 dessertspoonfuls of milk; strain this to the sauce,
keep stirring it over the fire, but do not let it boil, lest it curdle.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 5d. per pint.

This is a good sauce to pour over boiled fowls when they are a bad
colour.


PICKLED BEETROOT.

369. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient vinegar to cover the beets, 2 oz. of whole
pepper, 2 oz. of allspice to each gallon of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Wash the beets free from dirt, and be very careful not to prick
the outside skin, or they would lose their beautiful colour. Put them
into boiling water, let them simmer gently, and when about three parts
done, which will be in 1-1/2 hour, take them out and let them cool. Boil
the vinegar with pepper and allspice, in the above proportion, for ten
minutes, and when cold, pour it on the beets, which must be peeled and
cut into slices about 1/2 inch thick. Cover with bladder to exclude the
air, and in a week they will be fit for use.

_Average cost_, 3s. per gallon.

[Illustration: BLACK PEPPER.]

    BLACK PEPPER.--This well-known aromatic spice is the fruit of a
    species of climbing vine, and is a native of the East Indies,
    and is extensively cultivated in Malabar and the eastern islands
    of Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, and others in the same latitude.
    It was formerly confined to these countries, but it has now been
    introduced to Cayenne. It is generally employed as a condiment;
    but it should never be forgotten, that, even in small
    quantities, it produces detrimental effects on inflammatory
    constitutions. Dr. Paris, in his work on Diet, says, "Foreign
    spices were not intended by Nature for the inhabitants of
    temperate climes; they are heating, and highly stimulant. I am,
    however, not anxious to give more weight to this objection than
    it deserves. Man is no longer the child of Nature, nor the
    passive inhabitant of any particular region. He ranges over
    every part of the globe, and elicits nourishment from the
    productions of every climate. Nature is very kind in favouring
    the growth of those productions which are most likely to answer
    our local wants. Those climates, for instance, which engender
    endemic diseases, are, in general, congenial to the growth of
    plants that operate as antidotes to them. But if we go to the
    East for tea, there is no reason why we should not go to the
    West for sugar. The dyspeptic invalid, however, should be
    cautious in their use; they may afford temporary benefit, at the
    expense of permanent mischief. It has been well said, that the
    best quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite, and their
    worst to destroy, by insensible degrees, the tone of the
    stomach. The intrinsic goodness of meats should always be
    suspected when they require spicy seasonings to compensate for
    their natural want of sapidity." The quality of pepper is known
    by rubbing it between the hands: that which withstands this
    operation is good, that which is reduced to powder by it is bad.
    The quantity of pepper imported into Europe is very great.

BENTON SAUCE (to serve with Hot or Cold Roast Beef).

370. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of scraped horseradish, 1 teaspoonful
of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of
vinegar.

_Mode_.--Grate or scrape the horseradish very fine, and mix it with the
other ingredients, which must be all well blended together; serve in a
tureen. With cold meat, this sauce is a very good substitute for
pickles.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2d.

BREAD SAUCE (to serve with Roast Turkey, Fowl, Game, &c.).

I.

371. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 3/4 of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1
onion; pounded mace, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Peel and quarter the onion, and simmer it in the milk till
perfectly tender. Break the bread, which should be stale, into small
pieces, carefully picking out any hard outside pieces; put it in a very
clean saucepan, strain the milk over it, cover it up, and let it remain
for an hour to soak. Now beat it up with a fork very smoothly, add a
seasoning of pounded mace, cayenne, and salt, with 1 oz. of butter; give
the whole one boil, and serve. To enrich this sauce, a small quantity of
cream may be added just before sending it to table.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1-3/4 hour.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 4d.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a turkey, pair of fowls, or brace of
partridges.

[Illustration: MACE.]

    MACE.--This is the membrane which surrounds the shell of the
    nutmeg. Its general qualities are the same as those of the
    nutmeg, producing an agreeable aromatic odour, with a hot and
    acrid taste. It is of an oleaginous nature, is yellowish in its
    hue, and is used largely as a condiment. In "Beeton's
    Dictionary" we find that the four largest of the Banda Islands
    produce 150,000 lbs. of it annually, which, with nutmegs, are
    their principal articles of export.

II.

372. INGREDIENTS.--Giblets of poultry, 3/4 lb. of the crumb of a stale
loaf, 1 onion, 12 whole peppers, 1 blade of mace, salt to taste, 2
tablespoonfuls of cream or melted butter, 1 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Put the giblets, with the head, neck, legs, &c., into a
stewpan; add the onion, pepper, mace, salt, and rather more than 1 pint
of water. Let this simmer for an hour, when strain the liquor over the
bread, which should be previously grated or broken into small pieces.
Cover up the saucepan, and leave it for an hour by the side of the fire;
then beat the sauce up with a fork until no lumps remain, and the whole
is nice and smooth. Let it boil for 3 or 4 minutes; keep stirring it
until it is rather thick; when add 3 tablespoonfuls of good melted
butter or cream, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d.


BROWNING FOR GRAVIES AND SAUCES.

373. The browning for soups (_see_ No. 108) answers equally well for
sauces and gravies, when it is absolutely necessary to colour them in
this manner; but where they can be made to look brown by using ketchup,
wine, browned flour, tomatoes, or any colour sauce, it is far
preferable. As, however, in cooking, so much depends on appearance,
perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use the
artificial means (No. 108). When no browning is at hand, and you wish to
heighten the colour of your gravy, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron
spoon over a sharp fire; when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the
sauce or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in too
much, as it would impart a very disagreeable flavour.

BEURRE NOIR, or BROWNED BUTTER (a French Sauce).

374. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley,
3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the butter into a fryingpan over a nice clear fire, and
when it smokes, throw in the parsley, and add the vinegar and seasoning.
Let the whole simmer for a minute or two, when it is ready to serve.
This is a very good sauce for skate.

_Time_.--1/4 hour.


CLARIFIED BUTTER.

375. Put the butter in a basin before the fire, and when it melts, stir
it round once or twice, and let it settle. Do not strain it unless
absolutely necessary, as it causes so much waste. Pour it gently off
into a clean dry jar, carefully leaving all sediment behind. Let it
cool, and carefully exclude the air by means of a bladder, or piece of
wash-leather, tied over. If the butter is salt, it may be washed before
melting, when it is to be used for sweet dishes.


MELTED BUTTER.

I.

376. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, 1
wineglassful of water, salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the butter up into small pieces, put it in a saucepan,
dredge over the flour, and add the water and a seasoning of salt; stir
it _one way_ constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted and
thoroughly blended. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. If the
butter is to be melted with cream, use the same quantity as of water,
but omit the flour; keep stirring it, but do not allow it to boil.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 4d.

II.

_(More Economical.)_

377. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to
taste, 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, which put into a
saucepan. Add the butter and a seasoning of salt, keep stirring _one
way_ till all the ingredients are melted and perfectly smooth; let the
whole boil for a minute or two, and serve.

_Time_.--2 minutes to simmer.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2d.


MELTED BUTTER (the French Sauce Blanche).

378. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
salt to taste, 1/2 gill of water, 1/2 spoonful of white vinegar, a very
little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, carefully rubbing
down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may appear. Put it in a
saucepan with all the other ingredients, and let it thicken on the fire,
but do not allow it to boil, lest it should taste of the flour.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer.

_Average cost_, 5d. for this quantity.

[Illustration: THE NUTMEG.]

    NUTMEG.--This is a native of the Moluccas, and was long kept
    from being spread in other places by the monopolizing spirit of
    the Dutch, who endeavoured to keep it wholly to themselves by
    eradicating it from every other island. We find it stated in
    "Beeton's Dictionary of Universal Information," under the
    article "Banda Islands," that the four largest are appropriated
    to the cultivation of nutmegs, of which about 500,000 lbs. are
    annually produced. The plant, through the enterprise of the
    British, has now found its way into Penang and Bencooleu, where
    it flourishes and produces well. It has also been tried to be
    naturalized in the West Indies, and it bears fruit all the year
    round. There are two kinds of nutmeg,--one wild, and long and
    oval-shaped, the other cultivated, and nearly round. The best is
    firm and hard, and has a strong aromatic odour, with a hot and
    acrid taste. It ought to be used with caution by those who are
    of paralytic or apoplectic habits.

THICKENED BUTTER.

379.--INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of melted butter, No. 376, the yolks of 2
eggs, a little lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Make the butter quite hot, and be careful not to colour it.
Well whisk the yolks of the eggs, pour them to the butter, beating them
all the while. Make the sauce hot over the fire, but do not let it boil;
add a squeeze of lemon-juice.


MELTED BUTTER MADE WITH MILK.

380. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. butter, 1/3 pint of
milk, a few grains of salt.

_Mode_.--Mix the butter and flour smoothly together on a plate, put it
into a lined saucepan, and pour in the milk. Keep stirring it _one way_
over a sharp fire; let it boil quickly for a minute or two, and it is
ready to serve. This is a very good foundation for onion, lobster, or
oyster sauce: using milk instead of water makes it look so much whiter
and more delicate.

_Time_.--Altogether, 10 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 3d.


CAMP VINEGAR.

381. INGREDIENTS.--1 head of garlic, 1/2 oz. cayenne, 2 teaspoonfuls of
soy, 2 ditto walnut ketchup, 1 pint of vinegar, cochineal to colour.

_Mode_.--Slice the garlic, and put it, with all the above ingredients,
into a clean bottle. Let it stand to infuse for a month, when strain it
off quite clear, and it will be fit for use. Keep it in small bottles
well sealed, to exclude the air.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 8d.


CAPER SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON.

382. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 3 tablespoonfuls
of capers or nasturtiums, 1 tablespoonful of their liquor.

_Mode_.--Chop the capers twice or thrice, and add them, with their
liquor, to 1/2 pint of melted butter, made very smoothly; keep stirring
well; let the sauce just simmer, and serve in a tureen. Pickled
nasturtium-pods are fine-flavoured, and by many are eaten in preference
to capers. They make an excellent sauce.

_Time_.--2 minutes to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a leg of mutton.


CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH.

383. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter No. 376, 3 dessertspoonfuls
of capers, 1 dessertspoonful of their liquor, a small piece of glaze, if
at hand (this may be dispensed with), 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, ditto of
pepper, 1 tablespoonful of anchovy essence.

_Mode_.--Cut the capers across once or twice, but do not chop them fine;
put them in a saucepan with 1/2 pint of good melted butter, and add all
the other ingredients. Keep stirring the whole until it just simmers,
when it is ready to serve.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 5d.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a skate, or 2 or 3 slices of salmon.

[Illustration: THE CAPER.]

    CAPERS.--These are the unopened buds of a low trailing shrub,
    which grows wild among the crevices of the rocks of Greece, as
    well as in northern Africa: the plant, however, has come to be
    cultivated in the south of Europe. After being pickled in
    vinegar and salt, they are imported from Sicily, Italy, and the
    south of France. The best are from Toulon.

A SUBSTITUTE FOR CAPER SAUCE.

384. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, 2 tablespoonfuls
of cut parsley, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Boil the parsley slowly to let it become a bad colour; cut, but
do not chop it fine. Add it to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter,
with salt and vinegar in the above proportions. Boil up and serve.

_Time_.--2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 3d.


PICKLED CAPSICUMS.

385. INGREDIENTS.--Vinegar, 1/4 oz. of pounded mace, and 1/4 oz. of
grated nutmeg, to each quart; brine.

_Mode_.--Gather the pods with the stalks on, before they turn red; slit
them down the side with a small-pointed knife, and remove the seeds
only; put them in a strong brine for 3 days, changing it every morning;
then take them out, lay them on a cloth, with another one over them,
until they are perfectly free from moisture. Boil sufficient vinegar to
cover them, with mace and nutmeg in the above proportions; put the pods
in a jar, pour over the vinegar when cold, and exclude them from the air
by means of a wet bladder tied over.


CAYENNE VINEGAR, or ESSENCE OF CAYENNE.

386. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 1/2 pint of strong spirit,
or 1 pint of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Put the vinegar, or spirit, into a bottle, with the above
proportion of cayenne, and let it steep for a month, when strain off and
bottle for use. This is excellent seasoning for soups or sauces, but
must be used very sparingly.


CELERY SAUCE, FOR BOILED TURKEY, POULTRY, &c.

387. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery, 1 pint of white stock, No. 107, 2
blades of mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs; thickening of butter and
flour, or arrowroot, 1/2 pint of cream, lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Boil the celery in salt and water, until tender, and cut it
into pieces 2 inches long. Put the stock into a stewpan with the mace
and herbs, and let it simmer for 1/2 hour to extract their flavour. Then
strain the liquor, add the celery and a thickening of butter kneaded
with flour, or, what is still better, with arrowroot; just before
serving, put in the cream, boil it up and squeeze in a little
lemon-juice. If necessary, add a seasoning of salt and white pepper.

_Time_.--25 minutes to boil the celery. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a boiled turkey.

This sauce may be made brown by using gravy instead of white stock, and
flavouring it with mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce.

[Illustration: ARROWROOT.]

    ARROWROOT.--This nutritious fecula is obtained from the roots of
    a plant which is cultivated in both the East and West Indies.
    When the roots are about a year old, they are dug up, and, after
    being well washed, are beaten to a pulp, which is afterwards, by
    means of water, separated from the fibrous part. After being
    passed through a sieve, once more washed, and then suffered to
    settle, the sediment is dried in the sun, when it has become
    arrowroot. The best is obtained from the West Indies, but a
    large quantity of what is sold in London is adulterated with
    potato-starch. As a means of knowing arrowroot when it is good,
    it may be as well to state, that the genuine article, when
    formed into a jelly, will remain firm for three or four days,
    whilst the adulterated will become as thin as milk in the course
    of twelve hours.

CELERY SAUCE (a More Simple Recipe).

388. INGREDIENTS.--4 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made
with milk (No. 380), 1 blade of pounded mace; salt and white pepper to
taste.

_Mode_.--Wash the celery, boil it in salt and water till tender, and cut
it into pieces 2 inches long; make 1/2 pint melted butter by recipe No.
380; put in the celery, pounded mace, and seasoning; simmer for three
minutes, when the sauce will be ready to serve.

_Time_.--25 minutes to boil the celery. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a boiled fowl.


CELERY VINEGAR.

389. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 oz. of celery-seed, 1 pint of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Crush the seed by pounding it in a mortar; boil the vinegar,
and when cold, pour it to the seed; let it infuse for a fortnight, when
strain and bottle off for use. This is frequently used in salads.


CHESTNUT SAUCE FOR FOWLS OR TURKEY.

390. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of white stock, 2
strips of lemon-peel, cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of cream or milk.

_Mode_.--Peel off the outside skin of the chestnuts, and put them into
boiling water for a few minutes; take off the thin inside peel, and put
them into a saucepan, with the white stock and lemon-peel, and let them
simmer for 1-1/2 hour, or until the chestnuts are quite tender. Rub the
whole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon; add seasoning and the
cream; let it just simmer, but not boil, and keep stirring all the time.
Serve very hot; and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, a very
small quantity of thickening may be required: that, of course, the cook
will determine.

_Time_.--Altogether nearly two hours. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a turkey.


BROWN CHESTNUT SAUCE.

391. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 2
lumps of sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce (_see_ Sauces).

_Mode_.--Prepare the chestnuts as in the foregoing recipe, by scalding
and peeling them; put them in a stewpan with the stock and sugar, and
simmer them till tender. When done, add Spanish sauce in the above
proportion, and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep this sauce rather
liquid, as it is liable to thicken.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to simmer the chestnuts. _Average cost_, 8d.


BENGAL RECIPE FOR MAKING MANGO CHETNEY.

392. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lbs. of moist sugar, 3/4 lb. of salt, 1/4 lb.
of garlic, 1/4 lb. of onions, 3/4 lb. of powdered ginger, 1/4 lb. of
dried chilies, 3/4 lb. of mustard-seed, 3/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 2
bottles of best vinegar, 30 large unripe sour apples.

_Mode_.--The sugar must be made into syrup; the garlic, onions, and
ginger be finely pounded in a mortar; the mustard-seed be washed in cold
vinegar, and dried in the sun; the apples be peeled, cored, and sliced,
and boiled in a bottle and a half of the vinegar. When all this is done,
and the apples are quite cold, put them into a large pan, and gradually
mix the whole of the rest of the ingredients, including the remaining
half-bottle of vinegar. It must be well stirred until the whole is
thoroughly blended, and then put into bottles for use. Tie a piece of
wet bladder over the mouths of the bottles, after they are well corked.
This chetney is very superior to any which can be bought, and one trial
will prove it to be delicious.

_Note_.--This recipe was given by a native to an English lady, who had
long been a resident in India, and who, since her return to her native
country, has become quite celebrated amongst her friends for the
excellence of this Eastern relish.

[Illustration: GARLIC.]

    GARLIC.--The smell of this plant is generally considered
    offensive, and it is the most acrimonious in its taste of the
    whole of the alliaceous tribe. In 1548 it was introduced to
    England from the shores of the Mediterranean, where it is
    abundant, and in Sicily it grows naturally. It was in greater
    repute with our ancestors than it is with ourselves, although it
    is still used as a seasoning herb. On the continent, especially
    in Italy, it is much used, and the French consider it an
    essential in many made dishes.

CHILI VINEGAR.

393. INGREDIENTS.--50 fresh red English chilies, 1 pint of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Pound or cut the chilies in half, and infuse them in the
vinegar for a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. This will be found
an agreeable relish to fish, as many people cannot eat it without the
addition of an acid and cayenne pepper.


CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S SAUCE FOR MEAT OR GAME.

394. INGREDIENTS.-1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's
sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, ditto of pounded white
sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayenne
pepper, ditto of salt.

_Mode_.--Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together, and heat the sauce
gradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan of
boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready.
This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep good for a fortnight, and
will be found excellent.


CONSOMME, or WHITE STOCK FOR MANY SAUCES.

395. Consommé is made precisely in the same manner as stock No. 107,
and, for ordinary purposes, will be found quite good enough. When,
however, a stronger stock is desired, either put in half the quantity of
water, or double that of the meat. This is a very good foundation for
all white sauces.


CRAB SAUCE FOR FISH (equal to Lobster Sauce).

396. INGREDIENTS.--1 crab; salt, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; 1/2
pint of melted butter made with milk (_see_ No. 380).

_Mode_.--Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away from the
shell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make 1/2 pint of melted
butter by recipe No. 380, put in the fish and seasoning; let it
gradually warm through, and simmer for 2 minutes. It should not boil.

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d.


CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH OR WHITE DISHES.

397. INGREDIENTS.--1/3 pint of cream, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, salt and cayenne to taste; when liked, a small quantity of
pounded mace or lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Put the butter in a very clean saucepan, dredge in the flour,
and keep shaking round till the butter is melted. Add the seasoning and
cream, and stir the whole till it boils; let it just simmer for 5
minutes, when add either pounded mace or lemon-juice to taste, to give
it a flavour.

_Time_.--5 minutes to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 7d.

This sauce may be flavoured with very finely-shredded shalot.


CUCUMBER SAUCE.

398. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 cucumbers, 2 oz. of butter, 6 tablespoonfuls
of brown gravy.

_Mode_.--Peel the cucumbers, quarter them, and take out the seeds; cut
them into small pieces; put them in a cloth, and rub them well, to take
out the water which hangs about them. Put the butter in a saucepan, add
the cucumbers, and shake them over a sharp fire until they are of a good
colour. Then pour over it the gravy, mix this with the cucumbers, and
simmer gently for 10 minutes, when it will be ready to serve.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.


PICKLED CUCUMBERS.

399. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of whole pepper, 1 oz. of bruised ginger;
sufficient vinegar to cover the cucumbers.

_Mode_.--Cut the cucumbers in thick slices, sprinkle salt over them, and
let them remain for 24 hours. The next day, drain them well for 6 hours,
put them into a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, and keep them in a
warm place. In a short time, boil up the vinegar again, add pepper and
ginger in the above proportion, and instantly cover them up. Tie them
down with bladder, and in a few days they will be fit for use.

[Illustration: LONG PEPPER.]

    LONG PEPPER.--This is the produce of a different plant from that
    which produces the black, it consisting of the half-ripe
    flower-heads of what naturalists call _Piper longum_ and
    _chaba_. It is the growth, however, of the same countries;
    indeed, all the spices are the produce of tropical climates
    only. Originally, the most valuable of these were found in the
    Spice Islands, or Moluccas, of the Indian Ocean, and were highly
    prized by the nations of antiquity. The Romans indulged in them
    to a most extravagant degree. The long pepper is less aromatic
    than the black, but its oil is more pungent.

CUCUMBER SAUCE, WHITE.

400. INGREDIENTS.--3 or four cucumbers, 1/2 pint of white stock, No.
107, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Cut the cucumbers into small pieces, after peeling them and
taking out the seeds. Put them in a stewpan with the white stock and
seasoning; simmer gently till the cucumbers are tender, which will be in
about 1/4 hour. Then add the yolks of the eggs well beaten; stir them to
the sauce, but do not allow it to boil, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.


CUCUMBER VINEGAR (a very nice Addition to Salads).

401. INGREDIENTS.--10 large cucumbers, or 12 smaller ones, 1 quart of
vinegar, 2 onions, 2 shalots, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls
of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayenne.

_Mode_.--Pare and slice the cucumbers, put them in a stone jar or
wide-mouthed bottle, with the vinegar; slice the onions and shalots, and
add them, with all the other ingredients, to the cucumbers. Let it stand
4 or 5 days, boil it all up, and when cold, strain the liquor through a
piece of muslin, and store it away in small bottles well sealed. This
vinegar is a very nice addition to gravies, hashes, &e., as well as a
great improvement to salads, or to eat with cold meat.


GERMAN METHOD OF KEEPING CUCUMBERS FOR WINTER USE.

402. INGREDIENTS.--Cucumbers, salt.

_Mode_.--Pare and slice the cucumbers (as for the table), sprinkle well
with salt, and let them remain for 24 hours; strain off the liquor, pack
in jars, a thick layer of cucumbers and salt alternately; tie down
closely, and, when wanted for use, take out the quantity required. Now
wash them well in fresh water, and dress as usual with pepper, vinegar,
and oil.

[Illustration: THE CUCUMBER.]

    THE CUCUMBER.--Though the melon is far superior in point of
    flavour to this fruit, yet it is allied to the cucumber, which
    is known to naturalists as _Cucumia sativus_. The modern
    Egyptians, as did their forefathers, still eat it, and others of
    its class. Cucumbers were observed, too, by Bishop Heber,
    beyond the Ganges, in India; and Burckhardt noticed them in
    Palestine. (See No. 127.)

AN EXCELLENT WAY OF PRESERVING CUCUMBERS.

403. INGREDIENTS.--Salt and water; 1 lb. of lump sugar, the rind of 1
lemon, 1 oz. of ginger, cucumbers.

_Mode_.--Choose the greenest cucumbers, and those that are most free
from seeds; put them in strong salt and water, with a cabbage-leaf to
keep them down; tie a paper over them, and put them in a warm place till
they are yellow; then wash them and set them over the fire in fresh
water, with a very little salt, and another cabbage-leaf over them;
cover very closely, but take care they do not boil. If they are not a
fine green, change the water again, cover them as before, and make them
hot. When they are a good colour, take them off the fire and let them
cool; cut them in quarters, take out the seeds and pulp, and put them
into cold water. Let them remain for 2 days, changing the water twice
each day, to draw out the salt. Put the sugar, with 1/4 pint of water,
in a saucepan over the fire; remove the scum as it rises, and add the
lemon-peel and ginger with the outside scraped off; when the syrup is
tolerably thick, take it off the fire, and when _cold_, wipe the
cucumbers _dry_, and put them in. Boil the syrup once in 2 or 3 days for
3 weeks; strengthen it if required, and let it be quite cold before the
cucumbers are put in. Great attention must be paid to the directions in
the commencement of this recipe, as, if these are not properly carried
out, the result will be far from satisfactory.

_Seasonable_.--This recipe should be used in June, July, or August.

[Illustration: SALT-MINE AT NORTHWICH.]

    COMMON SALT.--By this we mean salt used for cooking purposes,
    which is found in great abundance both on land and in the waters
    of the ocean. Sea or salt water, as it is often called,
    contains, it has been discovered, about three per cent, of salt
    on an average. Solid rocks of salt are also found in various
    parts of the world, and the county of Chester contains many of
    these mines, and it is from there that much of our salt comes.
    Some springs are so highly impregnated with salt, as to have
    received the name of "brine" springs, and are supposed to have
    become so by passing through the salt rocks below ground, and
    thus dissolving a portion of this mineral substance. We here
    give an engraving of a salt-mine at Northwich, Cheshire, where
    both salt-mines and brine-springs are exceedingly productive,
    and are believed to have been wrought so far back as during the
    occupation of Britain by the Romans.

CUSTARD SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS OR TARTS.

404. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, 1
tablespoonful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Put the milk in a very clean saucepan, and let it boil. Beat
the eggs, stir to them the milk and pounded sugar, and put the mixture
into a jug. Place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring
well until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle.
Serve the sauce in a tureen, stir in the brandy, and grate a little
nutmeg over the top. This sauce may be made very much nicer by using
cream instead of milk; but the above recipe will be found quite good
enough for ordinary purposes.

_Average cost_, 6d. per pint.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for 2 fruit tarts, or 1 pudding.


DUTCH SAUCE FOR FISH.

405. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 4
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of 1/2 lemon;
salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients, except the lemon-juice, into a
stew-pan; set it over the fire, and keep continually stirring. When it
is sufficiently thick, take it off, as it should not boil. If, however,
it happens to curdle, strain the sauce through a tammy, add the
lemon-juice, and serve. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead of plain,
and, by many, is considered far preferable.

_Average cost_, 6d.

Note.--This sauce may be poured hot over salad, and left to get quite
cold, when it should be thick, smooth, and somewhat stiff. Excellent
salads may be made of hard eggs, or the remains of salt fish flaked
nicely from the bone, by pouring over a little of the above mixture when
hot, and allowing it to cool.

[Illustration: THE LEMON.]

    THE LEMON.--This fruit is a native of Asia, and is mentioned by
    Virgil as an antidote to poison. It is hardier than the orange,
    and, as one of the citron tribe, was brought into Europe by the
    Arabians. The lemon was first cultivated in England in the
    beginning of the 17th century, and is now often to be found in
    our green-houses. The kind commonly sold, however, is imported
    from Portugal, Spain, and the Azores. Some also come from St.
    Helena; but those from Spain are esteemed the best. Its juice is
    now an essential for culinary purposes; but as an antiscorbutic
    its value is still greater. This juice, which is called _citric
    acid_, may be preserved in bottles for a considerable time, by
    covering it with a thin stratum of oil. _Shrub_ is made from it
    with rum and sugar.

GREEN DUTCH SAUCE, or HOLLANDAISE VERTE.

406. INGREDIENTS.--6 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367, seasoning to
taste of salt and cayenne, a little parsley-green to colour, the juice
of 1/2 a lemon.

_Mode_.--Put the Béchamel into a saucepan with the seasoning, and bring
it to a boil. Make a green colouring by pounding some parsley in a
mortar, and squeezing all the juice from it. Let this just simmer, when
add it to the sauce. A moment before serving, put in the lemon-juice,
but not before; for otherwise the sauce would turn yellow, and its
appearance be thus spoiled.

_Average cost_, 4d.

    BÉCHAMEL SAUCE--This sauce takes its name from a Monsieur
    Béchamel, a rich French financier, who, according to Borne
    authorities, invented it; whilst others affirm he only
    patronized it. Be this as it may, it is one of the most pleasant
    sauces which come to table, and should be most carefully and
    intelligently prepared. It is frequently used, as in the above
    recipe, as a principal ingredient and basis for other sauces.

TO PICKLE EGGS.

407. INGREDIENTS.--16 eggs, 1 quart of vinegar, 1/2 oz. of Black pepper,
1/2 oz. of Jamaica pepper, 1/2 oz. of ginger.

_Mode_.--Boil the eggs for 12 minutes, then dip them into cold water,
and take off the shells. Put the vinegar, with the pepper and ginger,
into a stewpan, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Now place the eggs in
a jar, pour over them the vinegar, &c., boiling hot, and, when cold, tie
them down with bladder to exclude the air. This pickle will be ready for
use in a month.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 9d.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made about Easter, as at this time eggs
are plentiful and cheap. A store of pickled eggs will be found very
useful and ornamental in serving with many first and second course
dishes.

[Illustration: GINGER.]

    The ginger-plant, known to naturalists as _Zingiber officinale_,
    is a native, of the East and West Indies. It grows somewhat like
    the lily of the valley, but its height is about three feet. In
    Jamaica it flowers about August or September, fading about the
    end of the year. The fleshy creeping roots, which form the
    ginger of commerce, are in a proper state to be dug when the
    stalks are entirely withered. This operation is usually
    performed in January and February; and when the roots are taken
    out of the earth, each one is picked, scraped, separately
    washed, and afterwards very carefully dried. Ginger is generally
    considered as less pungent and heating to the system than might
    he expected from its effects on the organs of taste, and it is
    frequently used, with considerable effect, as an anti-spasmodic
    and carminative.

EGG BALLS FOR SOUPS AND MADE DISHES.

408. INGREDIENTS.--8 eggs, a little flour; seasoning to taste of salt.

_Mode_.--Boil 6 eggs for 20 minutes, strip off the shells, take the
yolks and pound them in a mortar. Beat the yolks of the other 2 eggs;
add them, with a little flour and salt, to those pounded; mix all well
together, and roll into balls. Boil them before they are put into the
soup or other dish they may be intended for.

_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the eggs. _Average cost_, for this quantity,
8d.

_Sufficient_, 2 dozen balls for 1 tureen of soup.


EGG SAUCE FOR SALT FISH.

409. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; when
liked, a very little lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Boil the eggs until quite hard, which will be in about 20
minutes, and put them into cold water for 1/2 hour. Strip off the
shells, chop the eggs into small pieces, not, however, too fine. Make
the melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376, and, when boiling,
stir in the eggs, and serve very hot. Lemon-juice may be added at
pleasure.

_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the eggs. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_.--This quantity for 3 or 4 lbs. of fish.

_Note_.--When a thicker sauce is required, use one or two more eggs to
the same quantity of melted butter.


EPICUREAN SAUCE FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, GRAVIES, OR FISH.

410. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of walnut ketchup, 1/4 pint of mushroom
ditto, 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian soy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine;
1/4 oz. of white pepper, 2 oz. of shalots, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz.
of cloves, 3/4 pint of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Put the whole of the ingredients into a bottle, and let it
remain for a fortnight in a warm place, occasionally shaking up the
contents. Strain, and bottle off for use. This sauce will be found an
agreeable addition to gravies, hashes, stews, &c.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 6d.

[Illustration: SHALOT.]

    SHALOT, OR ESCHALOT.--This plant is supposed to have been
    introduced to England by the Crusaders, who found it growing
    wild in the vicinity of Ascalon. It is a bulbous root, and when
    full grown, its leaves wither in July. They ought to be taken up
    in the autumn, and when dried in the house, will keep till
    spring. It is called by old authors the "barren onion," and is
    used in sauces and pickles, soups and made dishes, and as an
    accompaniment to chops and steaks.

ESPAGNOLE, OR BROWN SPANISH SAUCE.

411. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of lean ham, 1 lb. of veal, 1-1/2 pint of
white stock, No. 107; 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 or 3
sprigs of savoury herbs, 6 green onions, 3 shalots, 2 cloves, 1 blade of
mace, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, and put them
into a stewpan. Moisten these with 1/2 pint of the stock No. 107, and
simmer till the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a nicely-coloured
glaze, when put in a few more spoonfuls to detach it. Add the remainder
of the stock, with the spices, herbs, shalots, and onions, and simmer
very gently for 1 hour. Strain and skim off every particle of fat, and
when required for use, thicken with butter and flour, or with a little
roux. Add the wine, and, if necessary, a seasoning of cayenne; when it
will be ready to serve.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 2s. per pint.

_Note_.--The wine in this sauce may be omitted, and an onion sliced and
fried of a nice brown substituted for it. This sauce or gravy is used
for many dishes, and with most people is a general favourite.


FENNEL SAUCE FOR MACKEREL.

412. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, rather more than
1 tablespoonful of chopped fennel.

_Mode_.--Make the melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376; chop
the fennel rather small, carefully cleansing it from any grit or dirt,
and put it to the butter when this is on the point of boiling. Simmer
for a minute or two, and serve in a tureen.

_Time_.--2 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ to serve with 5 or 6 mackerel.

[Illustration: FENNEL.]

    FENNEL.--This elegantly-growing plant, of which the Latin name
    is _Anethum foeniculum_, grows best in chalky soils, where,
    indeed, it is often found wild. It is very generally cultivated
    in gardens, and has much improved on its original form. Various
    dishes are frequently ornamented and garnished with its graceful
    leaves, and these are sometimes boiled in soups, although it is
    more usually confined, in English cookery, to the mackerel sauce
    as here given.

FISH SAUCE.

413. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of cayenne, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut
ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, a few shreds of garlic and shalot, 1
quart of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, and shake well
every day for a fortnight. Keep it in small bottles well sealed, and in
a few days it will be fit for use.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s.


FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR FISH SOUPS.

414. INGREDIENTS.--1 middling-sized lobster, 1/2 an anchovy, 1 head of
boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; salt, cayenne, and mace to
taste; 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell of the lobster, and pound it, with
the soft parts, in a mortar; add the celery, the yolk of the hard-boiled
egg, seasoning, and bread crumbs. Continue pounding till the whole is
nicely amalgamated. Warm the butter till it is in a liquid state; well
whisk the eggs, and work these up with the pounded lobster-meat. Make
into balls of about an inch in diameter, and fry of a nice pale brown.

_Sufficient_, from 18 to 20 balls for 1 tureen of soup.


FORCEMEAT FOR COLD SAVOURY PIES.

415. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of fat bacon; salt, cayenne,
pepper, and pounded mace to taste; a very little nutmeg, the same of
chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoonful
of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Chop the veal and bacon together, and put them in a mortar with
the other ingredients mentioned above. Pound well, and bind with 1 or 2
eggs which have been previously beaten and strained. Work the whole well
together, and the forcemeat will be ready for use. If the pie is not to
be eaten immediately, omit the herbs and parsley, as these would prevent
it from keeping. Mushrooms or truffles may be added.

_Sufficient_ for 2 small pies.

[Illustration: MARJORAM.]

    MARJORAM.--Although there are several species of marjoram, that
    which is known as the sweet or knotted marjoram, is the one
    usually preferred in cookery. It is a native of Portugal, and
    when its leaves are used as a seasoning herb, they have an
    agreeable aromatic flavour. The winter sweet marjoram used for
    the same purposes, is a native of Greece, and the pot-marjoram
    is another variety brought from Sicily. All of them are
    favourite ingredients in soups, stuffings, &c.

FORCEMEAT FOR PIKE, CARP, HADDOCK, AND VARIOUS KINDS OF FISH.

416. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 oz. of suet, 1 oz. of fat
bacon, 1 small teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, including parsley; a
little onion, when liked, shredded very fine; salt, nutmeg, and cayenne
to taste; 4 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Mix all the ingredients well together, carefully mincing them
very finely; beat up the egg, moisten with it, and work the whole very
smoothly together. Oysters or anchovies may be added to this forcemeat,
and will be found a great improvement.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized haddock or pike.


FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, FOWLS, HARE, &c.

417. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of ham or lean bacon, 1/4 lb. of suet, the rind
of half a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful of
minced sweet herbs; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; 6 oz. of
bread crumbs, 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Shred the ham or bacon, chop the suet, lemon-peel, and herbs,
taking particular care that all be very finely minced; add a seasoning
to taste, of salt, cayenne, and mace, and blend all thoroughly together
with the bread crumbs, before wetting. Now beat and strain the eggs,
work these up with the other ingredients, and the forcemeat will be
ready for use. When it is made into balls, fry of a nice brown, in
boiling lard, or put them on a tin and bake for 1/2 hour in a moderate
oven. As we have stated before, no one flavour should predominate
greatly, and the forcemeat should be of sufficient body to cut with a
knife, and yet not dry and heavy. For very delicate forcemeat, it is
advisable to pound the ingredients together before binding with the egg;
but for ordinary cooking, mincing very finely answers the purpose.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for a turkey, a moderate-sized fillet of veal, or a hare.

_Note_.--In forcemeat for HARE, the liver of the animal is sometimes
added. Boil for 5 minutes, mince it very small, and mix it with the
other ingredients. If it should be in an unsound state, it must be on no
account made use of.

[Illustration: BASIL.]

    SWEET HERBS.--Those most usually employed for purposes of
    cooking, such as the flavouring of soups, sauces, forcemeats,
    &c., are thyme, sage, mint, marjoram, savory, and basil. Other
    sweet herbs are cultivated for purposes of medicine and
    perfumery: they are most grateful both to the organs of taste
    and smelling; and to the aroma derived from them is due, in a
    great measure, the sweet and exhilarating fragrance of our
    "flowery meads." In town, sweet herbs have to be procured at the
    greengrocers' or herbalists', whilst, in the country, the garden
    should furnish all that are wanted, the cook taking great care
    to have some dried in the autumn for her use throughout the
    winter months.

FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED PIKE.

418. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of minced
savoury herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed with), 2
oz. of suet; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste; 6 tablespoonfuls
of cream or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Beard and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the other
ingredients by recipe No. 416, and blend the whole thoroughly together.
Moisten with the cream and eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir it
over the fire till it thickens, when put it into the fish, which should
have previously been cut open, and sew it up.

_Time_.--4 or 6 minutes to thicken.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized pike.


FRENCH FORCEMEAT.

419. It will be well to state, in the beginning of this recipe, that
French forcemeat, or quenelles, consist of the blending of three
separate processes; namely, panada, udder, and whatever meat you intend
using.


PANADA.

420. INGREDIENTS.--The crumb of 2 penny rolls, 4 tablespoonfuls of white
stock, No. 107, 1 oz. of butter, 1 slice of ham, 1 bay-leaf, a little
minced parsley, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, a few mushrooms
(when obtainable), butter, the yolks of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Soak the crumb of the rolls in milk for about 1/2 hour, then
take it out, and squeeze so as to press the milk from it; put the soaked
bread into a stewpan with the above quantity of white stock, and set it
on one side; then put into a separate stewpan 1 oz. of butter, a slice
of lean ham cut small, with a bay-leaf, herbs, mushrooms, spices, &c.,
in the above proportions, and fry them gently over a slow fire. When
done, moisten with 2 teacupfuls of white stock, boil for 20 minutes, and
strain the whole through a sieve over the panada in the other stewpan.
Place it over the fire, keep constantly stirring, to prevent its
burning, and when quite dry, put in a small piece of butter. Let this
again dry up by stirring over the fire; then add the yolks of 2 eggs,
mix well, put the panada to cool on a clean plate, and use it when
required. Panada should always be well flavoured, as the forcemeat
receives no taste from any of the other ingredients used in its
preparation.


Boiled Calf's Udder for French Forcemeats.

421. Put the udder into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; let
it stew gently till quite done, when take it out to cool. Trim all the
upper parts, cut it into small pieces, and pound well in a mortar, till
it can be rubbed through a sieve. That portion which passes through the
strainer is one of the three ingredients of which French forcemeats are
generally composed; but many cooks substitute butter for this, being a
less troublesome and more expeditious mode of preparation.

[Illustration: PESTLE AND MORTAR.]

    PESTLE AND MORTAR.--No cookery can be perfectly performed
    without the aid of the useful instruments shown in the
    engraving. For pounding things sufficiently fine, they are
    invaluable, and the use of them will save a good deal of time,
    besides increasing the excellence of the preparations. They are
    made of iron, and, in that material, can be bought cheap; but as
    these are not available, for all purposes, we should recommend,
    as more economical in the end, those made of Wedgwood, although
    these are considerably more expensive than the former.

Veal Quenelles.

422. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of veal, panada (No. 420), and
calf's udder (No. 421), 2 eggs; seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and
pounded mace, or grated nutmeg; a little flour.

_Mode_.--Take the fleshy part of veal, scrape it with a knife, till all
the meat is separated from the sinews, and allow about 1/2 lb. for an
entrée. Chop the meat, and pound it in a mortar till reduced to a paste;
then roll it into a ball; make another of panada (No. 420), the same
size, and another of udder (No. 421), taking care that these three balls
be of the same _size_. It is to be remembered, that equality of _size_,
and not of weight, is here necessary. When the three ingredients are
properly prepared, pound them altogether in a mortar for some time; for
the more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Now moisten
with the eggs, whites and yolks, and continue pounding, adding a
seasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well blended
together, mould it into balls, or whatever shape is intended, roll them
in flour, and poach in boiling water, to which a little salt should have
been added. If the quenelles are not firm enough, add the yolk of
another egg, but omit the white, which only makes them hollow and puffy
inside. In the preparation of this recipe, it would be well to bear in
mind that the ingredients are to be well pounded and seasoned, and must
be made hard or soft according to the dishes they are intended for. For
brown or white ragoûts they should be firm, and when the quenelles are
used very small, extreme delicacy will be necessary in their
preparation. Their flavour may be varied by using the flesh of rabbit,
fowl, hare, pheasant, grouse, or an extra quantity of mushroom, parsley,
&c.

_Time_,--About 1/4 hour to poach in boiling water.

_Sufficient_, 1/2 lb. of veal or other meat, with other ingredients in
proportion, for 1 entrée.

_Note_.--The French are noted for their skill in making forcemeats; one
of the principal causes of their superiority in this respect being, that
they pound all the ingredients so diligently and thoroughly. Any one
with the slightest pretensions to refined cookery, must, in this
particular, implicitly follow the example of our friends across the
Channel.


FORCEMEAT, or QUENELLES, FOR TURTLE SOUP.

(_See No_. 189.)

423. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR FORCEMEATS.--Take a pound and a half of lean
veal from the fillet, and cut it in long thin slices; scrape with a
knife till nothing but the fibre remains; put it in a mortar, pound it
10 minutes, or until in a purée; pass it through a wire sieve (use the
remainder in stock); then take 1 pound of good fresh beef suet, which
skin, shred, and chop very fine; put it in a mortar and pound it; then
add 6 oz. of panada (that is, bread soaked in milk and boiled till
nearly dry) with the suet; pound them well together, and add the veal;
season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, half that of
nutmeg; work all well together; then add four eggs by degrees,
continually pounding the contents of the mortar. When well mixed, take a
small piece in a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water; and if it is
delicate, firm, and of a good flavour, it is ready for use.


FRIED BREAD CRUMBS.

424. Cut the bread into thin slices, place them in a cool oven
overnight, and when thoroughly dry and crisp, roll them down into fine
crumbs. Put some lard, or clarified dripping, into a frying-pan; bring
it to the boiling-point, throw in the crumbs, and fry them very quickly.
Directly they are done, lift them out with a slice, and drain them
before the fire from all greasy moisture. When quite crisp, they are
ready for use. The fat they are fried in should be clear, and the crumbs
should not have the slightest appearance or taste of having been, in the
least degree, burnt.


FRIED SIPPETS OF BREAD (for Garnishing many Dishes).

425. Cut the bread into thin slices, and stamp them out in whatever
shape you like,--rings, crosses, diamonds, &c. &c. Fry them in the same
manner as the bread crumbs, in clear boiling lard, or clarified
dripping, and drain them until thoroughly crisp before the fire. When
variety is desired, fry some of a pale colour, and others of a darker
hue.


FRIED BREAD FOR BORDERS.

426. Proceed as above, by frying some slices of bread cut in any
fanciful shape. When quite crisp, dip one side of the sippet into the
beaten white of an egg mixed with a little flour, and place it on the
edge of the dish. Continue in this manner till the border is completed,
arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternately.

GENEVESE SAUCE FOR SALMON, TROUT, &c.

427. INGREDIENTS.--1 small carrot, a small faggot of sweet herbs,
including parsley, 1 onion, 5 or 6 mushrooms (when obtainable), 1
bay-leaf, 6 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1 glass of sherry,
1-1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, thickening of butter and flour, the
juice of half a lemon.

_Mode_.--Cut up the onion and carrot into small rings, and put them into
a stewpan with the herbs, mushrooms, bay-leaf, cloves, and mace; add the
butter, and simmer the whole very gently over a slow fire until the
onion is quite tender. Pour in the stock and sherry, and stew slowly for
1 hour, when strain it off into a clean saucepan. Now make a thickening
of butter and flour, put it to the sauce, stir it over the fire until
perfectly smooth and mellow, add the lemon-juice, give one boil, when it
will be ready for table.

_Time_.--Altogether 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d per pint.

_Sufficient_, half this quantity for two slices of salmon.

[Illustration: SAGE.]

    SAGE.--This was originally a native of the south of Europe, but
    it has long been cultivated in the English garden. There are
    several kinds of it, known as the green, the red, the
    small-leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. In cookery, its
    principal use is for stuffings and sauces, for which purpose the
    red is the most agreeable, and the green the next. The others
    are used for medical purposes.

PICKLED GHERKINS.

428. INGREDIENTS.--Salt and water, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/2 oz. of
whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of whole allspice, 4 cloves, 2 blades of
mace, a little horseradish. This proportion of pepper, spices, &c., for
1 quart of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Let the gherkins remain in salt and water for 3 or 4 days, when
take them out, wipe perfectly dry, and put them into a stone jar. Boil
sufficient vinegar to cover them, with spices and pepper, &c., in the
above proportion, for 10 minutes; pour it, quite boiling, over the
gherkins, cover the jar with vine-leaves, and put over them a plate,
setting them near the fire, where they must remain all night. Next day
drain off the vinegar, boil it up again, and pour it hot over them.
Cover up with fresh leaves, and let the whole remain till quite cold.
Now tie down closely with bladder to exclude the air, and in a month or
two, they will be fit for use.

_Time_.--4 days.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August.

[Illustration: GHERKINS.]

    GHERKINS.--Gherkins are young cucumbers; and the only way in
    which they are used for cooking purposes is pickling them, as by
    the recipe here given. Not having arrived at maturity, they have
    not, of course, so strongly a developed flavour as cucumbers,
    and, as a pickle, they are very general favourites.

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR BOILED MACKEREL.

429. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of green gooseberries, 3 tablespoonfuls of
Béchamel, No. 367 (veal gravy may be substituted for this), 2 oz. of
fresh butter; seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Boil the gooseberries in water until quite tender; strain them,
and rub them through a sieve. Put into a saucepan the Béchamel or gravy,
with the butter and seasoning; add the pulp from the gooseberries, mix
all well together, and heat gradually through. A little pounded sugar
added to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement, as the
saccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit.

_Time_.--Boil the gooseberries from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a large dish of mackerel.

_Seasonable_ from May to July.

[Illustration: THE GOOSEBERRY.]

    THE GOOSEBERRY.--This useful and wholesome fruit (_Ribes
    grossularia_) is thought to be indigenous to the British Isles,
    and may be occasionally found in a wild state in some of the
    eastern counties, although, when uncultivated, it is but a very
    small and inferior berry. The high state of perfection to which
    it has been here brought, is due to the skill of the English
    gardeners; for in no other country does it attain the same size
    and flavour. The humidity of the British climate, however, has
    doubtless something to do with the result; and it is said that
    gooseberries produced in Scotland as far north as Inverness, are
    of a very superior character. Malic and citric acid blended with
    sugar, produce the pleasant flavour of the gooseberry; and upon
    the proper development of these properties depends the success
    of all cooking operations with which they are connected.

GLAZE FOR COVERING COLD HAMS, TONGUES, &c.

430. INGREDIENTS.--Stock No. 104 or 107, doubling the quantity of meat
in each.

_Mode_.--We may remark at the outset, that unless glaze is wanted in
very large quantities, it is seldom made expressly. Either of the stocks
mentioned above, boiled down and reduced very considerably, will be
found to produce a very good glaze. Put the stock into a stewpan, over a
nice clear fire; let it boil till it becomes somewhat stiff, when keep
stirring, to prevent its burning. The moment it is sufficiently reduced,
and comes to a glaze, turn it out into the glaze-pot, of which we have
here given an engraving. As, however, this is not to be found in every
establishment, a white earthenware jar would answer the purpose; and
this may be placed in a vessel of boiling water, to melt the glaze when
required. It should never be warmed in a saucepan, except on the
principle of the bain marie, lest it should reduce too much, and become
black and bitter. If the glaze is wanted of a pale colour, more veal
than beef should be used in making the stock; and it is as well to omit
turnips and celery, as these impart a disagreeable bitter flavour.

TO GLAZE COLD JOINTS, &c.--Melt the glaze by placing the vessel which
contains it, into the bain marie or saucepan of boiling water; brush it
over the meat with a paste-brush, and if in places it is not quite
covered, repeat the operation. The glaze should not be too dark a
colour. (_See_ Coloured Cut of Glazed Ham, P.)

[Illustration: GLAZE-KETTLE.]

[Illustration: THE BAIN MARIE.]

    GLAZE-KETTLE.--This is a kettle used for keeping the strong
    stock boiled down to a jelly, which is known by the name of
    glaze. It is composed of two tin vessels, as shown in the cut,
    one of which, the upper,--containing the glaze, is inserted into
    one of larger diameter and containing boiling water. A brush is
    put in the small hole at the top of the lid, and is employed for
    putting the glaze on anything that may require it.

    THE BAIN MARIE.--So long ago as the time when emperors ruled in
    Rome, and the yellow Tiber passed through a populous and wealthy
    city, this utensil was extensively employed; and it is
    frequently mentioned by that profound culinary chemist of the
    ancients, Apicius. It is an open kind of vessel (as shown in the
    engraving and explained in our paragraph No. 87, on the French
    terms used in modern cookery), filled with boiling or nearly
    boiling water; and into this water should be put all the
    stewpans containing those ingredients which it is desired to
    keep hot. The quantity and quality of the contents of these
    vessels are not at all affected; and if the hour of dinner is
    uncertain in any establishment, by reason of the nature of the
    master's business, nothing is so certain a means of preserving
    the flavour of all dishes as the employment of the bain marie.

GREEN SAUCE FOR GREEN GEESE OR DUCKLINGS.

431. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of sorrel-juice, 1 glass of sherry, 1/2 pint
of green gooseberries, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of fresh
butter.

_Mode_.--Boil the gooseberries in water until they are quite tender;
mash them and press them through a sieve; put the pulp into a saucepan
with the above ingredients; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and serve very
hot.

_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes.

_Note_.--We have given this recipe as a sauce for green geese, thinking
that some of our readers might sometimes require it; but, at the
generality of fashionable tables, it is now seldom or never served.

[Illustration: SORREL.]

    SORREL.--We gather from the pages of Pliny and Apicius, that
    sorrel was cultivated by the Romans in order to give it more
    strength and flavour, and that they also partook of it sometimes
    stewed with mustard, being seasoned with a little oil and
    vinegar. At the present day, English cookery is not much
    indebted to this plant (_Rumex Acetosa_), although the French
    make use of it to a considerable extent. It is found in most
    parts of Great Britain, and also on the continent, growing wild
    in the grass meadows, and, in a few gardens, it is cultivated.
    The acid of sorrel is very _prononcé_, and is what chemists term
    a binoxalate of potash; that is, a combination of oxalic acid
    with potash.

GENERAL STOCK FOR GRAVIES.

432. Either of the stocks, Nos. 104, 105, or 107, will be found to
answer very well for the basis of many gravies, unless these are wanted
very rich indeed. By the addition of various store sauces, thickening
and flavouring, the stocks here referred to may be converted into very
good gravies. It should be borne in mind, however, that the goodness and
strength of spices, wines, flavourings, &c., evaporate, and that they
lose a great deal of their fragrance, if added to the gravy a long time
before they are wanted. If this point is attended to, a saving of one
half the quantity of these ingredients will be effected, as, with long
boiling, the flavour almost entirely passes away. The shank-bones of
mutton, previously well soaked, will be found a great assistance in
enriching gravies; a kidney or melt, beef skirt, trimmings of meat, &c.
&c., answer very well when only a small quantity is wanted, and, as we
have before observed, a good gravy need not necessarily be so very
expensive; for economically-prepared dishes are oftentimes found as
savoury and wholesome as dearer ones. The cook should also remember that
the fragrance of gravies should not be overpowered by too much spice, or
any strong essences, and that they should always be warmed in a _bain
marie_, after they are flavoured, or else in a jar or jug placed in a
saucepan full of boiling water. The remains of roast-meat gravy should
always be saved; as, when no meat is at hand, a very nice gravy in haste
may be made from it, and when added to hashes, ragoûts, &c., is a great
improvement.

[Illustration: GRAVY-KETTLE.]

    GRAVY-KETTLE.--This is a utensil which will not be found in
    every kitchen; but it is a useful one where it is necessary to
    keep gravies hot for the purpose of pouring over various dishes
    as they are cooking. It is made of copper, and should,
    consequently, be heated over the hot plate, if there be one, or
    a charcoal stove. The price at which it can be purchased is set
    down by Messrs. Slack at 14s.

GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT.

433. INGREDIENTS.--Gravy, salt.

_Mode_.--Put a common dish with a small quantity of salt in it under the
meat, about a quarter of an hour before it is removed from the fire.
When the dish is full, take it away, baste the meat, and pour the gravy
into the dish on which the joint is to be served.

    SAUCES AND GRAVIES IN THE MIDDLE AGES.--Neither poultry,
    butcher's meat, nor roast game were eaten dry in the middle
    ages, any more than fried fish is now. Different sauces, each
    having its own peculiar flavour, were served with all these
    dishes, and even with the various _parts_ of each animal.
    Strange and grotesque sauces, as, for example, "eggs cooked on
    the spit," "butter fried and roasted," were invented by the
    cooks of those days; but these preparations had hardly any other
    merit than that of being surprising and difficult to make.

A QUICKLY-MADE GRAVY.

434. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of shin of beef, 1/2 onion, 1/4 carrot, 2 or
3 sprigs of parsley and savoury herbs, a piece of butter about the size
of a walnut; cayenne and mace to taste, 3/4 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the meat into very small pieces, slice the onion and
carrot, and put them into a small saucepan with the butter. Keep
stirring over a sharp fire until they have taken a little colour, when
add the water and the remaining ingredients. Simmer for 1/2 hour, skim
well, strain, and flavour, when it will be ready for use.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5d.

    A HUNDRED DIFFERENT DISHES.--Modern housewives know pretty well
    how much care, and attention, and foresight are necessary in
    order to serve well a little dinner for six or eight persons,--a
    dinner which will give credit to the _ménage_, and satisfaction
    and pleasure to the guests. A quickly-made gravy, under some
    circumstances that we have known occur, will be useful to many
    housekeepers when they have not much time for preparation. But,
    talking of speed, and time, and preparation, what a combination
    of all these must have been necessary for the feast at the
    wedding of Charles VI. of France. On that occasion, as Froissart
    the chronicler tells us, the art of cooking, with its
    innumerable paraphernalia of sauces, with gravy, pepper,
    cinnamon, garlic, scallion, brains, gravy soups, milk _potage_,
    and ragoûts, had a signal triumph. The skilful _chef-de-cuisine_
    of the royal household covered the great marble table of the
    regal palace with no less than a hundred different dishes,
    prepared in a hundred different ways.

A GOOD BEEF GRAVY FOR POULTRY, GAME, &c.

435. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of lean beef, 1/2 pint of cold water, 1
shalot or small onion, 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, 1
tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup, 1/2 a teaspoonful
of arrowroot.

_Mode_.--Cut up the beef into small pieces, and put it, with the water,
into a stewpan. Add the shalot and seasoning, and simmer gently for 3
hours, taking care that it does not boil fast. A short time before it is
required, take the arrowroot, and having mixed it with a little cold
water, pour it into the gravy, which keep stirring, adding the Harvey's
sauce, and just letting it boil. Strain off the gravy in a tureen, and
serve very hot.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per pint.


BROWN GRAVY.

436. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, 2 lbs. of shin of
beef, 2 small slices of lean bacon (if at hand), salt and whole pepper
to taste, 3 cloves, 2 quarts of water. For thickening, 2 oz. of butter,
3 oz. of flour.

_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan; set this on the fire, throw in
the onions cut in rings, and fry them a light brown; then add the beef
and bacon, which should be cut into small square pieces; season, and
pour in a teacupful of water; let it boil for about ten minutes, or
until it is of a nice brown colour, occasionally stirring the contents.
Now fill up with water in the above proportion; let it boil up, when
draw it to the side of the fire to simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hour;
strain, and when cold, take off all the fat. In thickening this gravy,
melt 3 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add 2 oz. of flour, and stir till of
a light-brown colour; when cold, add it to the strained gravy, and boil
it up quickly. This thickening may be made in larger quantities, and
kept in a stone jar for use when wanted.

_Time_.--Altogether, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per pint.

    CLOVES.--This very agreeable spice is the unexpanded flower-buds
    of the _Caryophyllus aromaticus_, a handsome, branching tree, a
    native of the Malacca Islands. They take their name from the
    Latin word _clavus_, or the French _clou_, both meaning a nail,
    and to which the clove has a considerable resemblance. Cloves
    were but little known to the ancients, and Pliny appears to be
    the only writer who mentions them; and he says, vaguely enough,
    that some were brought to Rome, very similar to grains of
    pepper, but somewhat longer; that they were only to be found in
    India, in a wood consecrated to the gods; and that they served
    in the manufacture of perfumes. The Dutch, as in the case of the
    nutmeg (_see_ 378), endeavoured, when they gained possession of
    the Spice Islands, to secure a monopoly of cloves, and, so that
    the cultivation of the tree might be confined to Amboyna, their
    chief island, bribed the surrounding chiefs to cut down all
    trees found elsewhere. The Amboyna, or royal clove, is said to
    be the best, and is rare; but other kinds, nearly equally good,
    are produced in other parts of the world, and they come to
    Europe from Mauritius, Bourbon, Cayenne, and Martinique, as also
    from St. Kitts, St. Vincent's, and Trinidad. The clove contains
    about 20 per cent. of volatile aromatic oil, to which it owes
    its peculiar pungent flavour, its other parts being composed of
    woody fibre, water, gum, and resin.

BROWN GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT.

437. INGREDIENTS.--2 large onions, 1 large carrot, 2 oz. of butter, 3
pints of boiling water, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, a wineglassful of good
beer; salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Slice, flour, and fry the onions and carrots in the butter
until of a nice light-brown colour; then add the boiling water and the
remaining ingredients; let the whole stew gently for about an hour; then
strain, and when cold, skim off all the fat. Thicken it in the same
manner as recipe No. 436, and, if thought necessary, add a few drops of
colouring No. 108.

_Time_.--1 hour. Average cost, 2d. per pint.

_Note_.--The addition of a small quantity of mushroom ketchup or
Harvey's sauce very much improves the flavour of this gravy.


RICH GRAVY FOR HASHES, RAGOUTS, &c.

438. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 large onion or a few
shalots, a little flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2
or 3 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 slice
of lean ham or bacon, 1/2 a head of celery (when at hand), 2 pints of
boiling water; salt and cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the beef into thin slices, as also the onions, dredge them
with flour, and fry of a pale brown, but do not allow them to get black;
pour in the boiling water, let it boil up; and skim. Add the remaining
ingredients, and simmer the whole very gently for 2 hours, or until all
the juices are extracted from the meat; put it by to get cold, when take
off all the fat. This gravy may be flavoured with ketchup, store sauces,
wine, or, in fact, anything that may give additional and suitable relish
to the dish it is intended for.

_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 8d. per pint.

[Illustration: PIMENTO.]

    ALLSPICE.--This is the popular name given to pimento, or Jamaica
    pepper, known to naturalists as _Eugenia pimenta_, and belonging
    to the order of Myrtaceae. It is the berry of a fine tree in the
    West Indies and South America, which attains a height of from
    fifteen to twenty feet: the berries are not allowed to ripen,
    but, being gathered green, are then dried in the sun, and then
    become black. It is an inexpensive spice, and is considered more
    mild and innocent than most other spices; consequently, it is
    much used for domestic purposes, combining a very agreeable
    variety of flavours.

GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT FOR FOWLS.

439. INGREDIENTS.--The necks, feet, livers, and gizzards of the fowls, 1
slice of toasted bread, 1/2 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, salt and
pepper to taste, 1/2 pint of water, thickening of butter and flour, 1
dessertspoonful of ketchup.

_Mode_.--Wash the feet of the fowls thoroughly clean, and cut them and
the neck into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan with the bread,
onion, herbs, seasoning, livers, and gizzards; pour the water over them
and simmer gently for 1 hour. Now take out the liver, pound it, and
strain the liquor to it. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and a
flavouring of mushroom ketchup; boil it up and serve.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per pint.


A CHEAP GRAVY FOR HASHES, &c.

440. INGREDIENTS.--Bones and trimmings of the cooked joint intended for
hashing, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/4
teaspoonful of whole allspice, a small faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head
of celery, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening, sufficient boiling
water to cover the bones.

_Mode_.--Chop the bones in small pieces, and put them in a stewpan, with
the trimmings, salt, pepper, spice, herbs, and celery. Cover with
boiling water, and let the whole simmer gently for 1-1/2 or 2 hours.
Slice and fry the onion in the butter till it is of a pale brown, and
mix it gradually with the gravy made from the bones; boil for  1/4 hour,
and strain into a basin; now put it back into the stewpan; flavour with
walnut pickle or ketchup, pickled-onion liquor, or any store sauce that
may be preferred. Thicken with a little butter and flour, kneaded
together on a plate, and the gravy will be ready for use. After the
thickening is added, the gravy should just boil, to take off the rawness
of the flour.

_Time_.--2 hours, or rather more.

_Average cost_, 4d., exclusive of the bones and trimmings.


JUGGED GRAVY (Excellent).

441. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. of lean ham, 1 onion
or a few shalots, 2 pints of water, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1
blade of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 a large carrot, 1/2 a
head of celery.

_Mode_.--Cut up the beef and ham into small pieces, and slice the
vegetables; take a jar, capable of holding two pints of water, and
arrange therein, in layers, the ham, meat, vegetables, and seasoning,
alternately, filling up with the above quantity of water; tie down the
jar, or put a plate over the top, so that the steam may not escape;
place it in the oven, and let it remain there from 6 to 8 hours; should,
however, the oven be very hot, less time will be required. When
sufficiently cooked, strain the gravy, and when cold, remove the fat. It
may be flavoured with ketchup, wines, or any other store sauce that may
be preferred.

It is a good plan to put the jar in a cool oven over-night, to draw the
gravy; and then it will not require so long baking the following day.

_Time_.--From 6 to 8 hours, according to the oven.

_Average cost_, 7d. per pint.

[Illustration: CELERY.]

    CELERY.--As in the above recipe, the roots of celery are
    principally used in England for flavouring soups, sauces, and
    gravies, and for serving with cheese at the termination of a
    dinner, and as an ingredient for salad. In Italy, however, the
    green leaves and stems are also employed for stews and soups,
    and the seeds are also more frequently made use of on the
    continent than in our own islands. In Germany, celery is very
    highly esteemed; and it is there boiled and served up as a dish
    by itself, as well as used in the composition of mixed dishes.
    We ourselves think that this mild aromatic plant might oftener
    be cooked than it is; for there are very few nicer vegetable
    preparations brought to table than a well-dressed plate of
    stewed celery.

VEAL GRAVY FOR WHITE SAUCES, FRICASSEES, &c.

442. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of nicely flavoured lean ham, any poultry
trimmings, 3 lbs. of lean veal, a faggot of savoury herbs, including
parsley, a few green onions (or 1 large onion may be substituted for
these), a few mushrooms, when obtainable; 1 blade of mace, salt to
taste, 3 pints of water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, put these in
a stewpan, moistening them with a small quantity of water; place them
over the fire to draw down. When the bottom of the stewpan becomes
covered with a white glaze, fill up with water in the above proportion;
add the remaining ingredients, stew very slowly for 3 or 4 hours, and do
not forget to skim well the moment it boils. Put it by, and, when cold,
take off all the fat. This may be used for Béchamel, sauce tournée, and
many other white sauces.

_Time_.--3 or 4 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per pint.


CHEAP GRAVY FOR MINCED VEAL.

443. INGREDIENTS.--Bones and trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal,
1-1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/4
teaspoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, the juice of 1/4 lemon;
thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, except the thickening
and lemon-juice, and let them simmer very gently for rather more than 1
hour, or until the liquor is reduced to a pint, when strain through a
hair-sieve. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and the lemon-juice;
set it on the fire, and let it just boil up, when it will be ready for
use. It may be flavoured with a little tomato sauce, and, where a rather
dark-coloured gravy is not objected to, ketchup, or Harvey's sauce, may
be added at pleasure.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 3d.


GRAVY FOR VENISON.

444. INGREDIENTS.--Trimmings of venison, 3 or 4 mutton shank-bones, salt
to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup.

_Mode_.--Brown the trimmings over a nice clear fire, and put them in a
stewpan with the shank-bones and water; simmer gently for 2 hours,
strain and skim, and add the walnut ketchup and a seasoning of salt. Let
it just boil, when it is ready to serve.

_Time_.--2 hours.

[Illustration: THE DEER.]

    VENISON.--Far, far away in ages past, our fathers loved the
    chase, and what it brought; and it is usually imagined that when
    Isaac ordered his son Esau to go out with his weapons, his
    quiver and his bow, and to prepare for him savoury meat, such as
    he loved, that it was venison he desired. The wise Solomon, too,
    delighted in this kind of fare; for we learn that, at his table,
    every day were served the wild ox, the roebuck, and the stag.
    Xenophon informs us, in his History, that Cyrus, king of Persia,
    ordered that venison should never be wanting at his repasts; and
    of the effeminate Greeks it was the delight. The Romans, also,
    were devoted admirers of the flesh of the deer; and our own
    kings and princes, from the Great Alfred down to the Prince
    Consort, have hunted, although, it must be confessed, under
    vastly different circumstances, the swift buck, and relished
    their "haunch" all the more keenly, that they had borne
    themselves bravely in the pursuit of the animal.

TO DRY HERBS FOR WINTER USE.

445. On a very dry day, gather the herbs, just before they begin to
flower. If this is done when the weather is damp, the herbs will not be
so good a colour. (It is very necessary to be particular in little
matters like this, for trifles constitute perfection, and herbs nicely
dried will be found very acceptable when frost and snow are on the
ground. It is hardly necessary, however, to state that the flavour and
fragrance of fresh herbs are incomparably finer.) They should be
perfectly freed from dirt and dust, and be divided into small bunches,
with their roots cut off. Dry them quickly in a very hot oven, or before
the fire, as by this means most of their flavour will be preserved, and
be careful not to burn them; tie them up in paper bags, and keep in a
dry place. This is a very general way of preserving dried herbs; but we
would recommend the plan described in a former recipe.

_Seasonable_.--From the month of July to the end of September is the
proper time for storing herbs for winter use.

HERB POWDER FOR FLAVOURING, when Fresh Herbs are not obtainable.

446. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of dried lemon-thyme, 1 oz. of dried winter
savory, 1 oz. of dried sweet marjoram and basil, 2 oz. of dried parsley,
1 oz. of dried lemon-peel.

_Mode_.--Prepare and dry the herbs by recipe No. 445; pick the leaves
from the stalks, pound them, and sift them through a hair-sieve; mix in
the above proportions, and keep in glass bottles, carefully excluding
the air. This, we think, a far better method of keeping herbs, as the
flavour and fragrance do not evaporate so much as when they are merely
put in paper bags. Preparing them in this way, you have them ready for
use at a moment's notice.

Mint, sage, parsley, &c., dried, pounded, and each put into separate
bottles, will be found very useful in winter.

[Illustration: CORK WITH WOODEN TOP.]

    CORKS WITH WOODEN TOPS.--These are the best corks to use when it
    is indispensable that the air should not be admitted to the
    ingredients contained in bottles which are in constant use. The
    top, which, as will be seen by the accompanying little cut, is
    larger than the cork, is made of wood; and, besides effectually
    covering the whole top of the bottle, can be easily removed and
    again used, as no corkscrew is necessary to pull it out.

    SAVORY.--This we find described by Columella, a voluminous Roman
    writer on agriculture, as an odoriferous herb, which, "in the
    brave days of old," entered into the seasoning of nearly every
    dish. Verily, there are but few new things under the sun, and we
    don't find that we have made many discoveries in gastronomy, at
    least beyond what was known to the ancient inhabitants of Italy.
    We possess two varieties of this aromatic herb, known to
    naturalists as _Satureja_. They are called summer and winter
    savory, according to the time of the year when they are fit for
    gathering. Both sorts are in general cultivation throughout
    England.

HORSERADISH SAUCE, to serve with Roast Beef.

447. INGREDIENTS.--4 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, 1 teaspoonful
of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 2
teaspoonfuls of made mustard; vinegar.

_Mode_.--Grate the horseradish, and mix it well with the sugar, salt,
pepper, and mustard; moisten it with sufficient vinegar to give it the
consistency of cream, and serve in a tureen: 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of
cream added to the above, very much improve the appearance and flavour
of this sauce. To heat it to serve with hot roast beef, put it in a bain
marie or a jar, which place in a saucepan of boiling water; make it hot,
but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle.

_Note_.--This sauce is a great improvement on the old-fashioned way of
serving cold-scraped horseradish with hot roast beef. The mixing of the
cold vinegar with the warm gravy cools and spoils everything on the
plate. Of course, with cold meat, the sauce should be served cold.

[Illustration: THE HORSERADISH.]

    THE HORSERADISH.--This has been, for many years, a favourite
    accompaniment of roast beef, and is a native of England. It
    grows wild in wet ground, but has long been cultivated in the
    garden, and is, occasionally, used in winter salads and in
    sauces. On account of the great volatility of its oil, it should
    never be preserved by drying, but should be kept moist by being
    buried in sand. So rapidly does its volatile oil evaporate, that
    even when scraped for the table, it almost immediately spoils by
    exposure to the air.

HORSERADISH VINEGAR.

448. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of scraped horseradish, 1 oz. of minced
shalot, 1 drachm of cayenne, 1 quart of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a bottle, which shake well every
day for a fortnight. When it is thoroughly steeped, strain and bottle,
and it will be fit for use immediately. This will be found an agreeable
relish to cold beef, &c.

_Seasonable_.--This vinegar should be made either in October or
November, as horseradish is then in its highest perfection.

INDIAN CURRY-POWDER, founded on Dr. Kitchener's Recipe.

449. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of coriander-seed, 1/4 lb. of turmeric, 2 oz.
of cinnamon-seed, 1/2 oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. of mustard, 1 oz. of ground
ginger, 1/2 ounce of allspice, 2 oz. of fenugreek-seed.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients in a cool oven, where they should
remain one night; then pound them in a mortar, rub them through a sieve,
and mix thoroughly together; keep the powder in a bottle, from which the
air should be completely excluded.

_Note_.--We have given this recipe for curry-powder, as some persons
prefer to make it at home; but that purchased at any respectable shop
is, generally speaking, far superior, and, taking all things into
consideration, very frequently more economical.


INDIAN MUSTARD, an excellent Relish to Bread and Butter, or any cold
Meat.

450. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of the best mustard, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1/2
oz. of salt, 4 shalots, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls of
ketchup, 1/4 bottle of anchovy sauce.

_Mode_.--Put the mustard, flour, and salt into a basin, and make them
into a stiff paste with boiling water. Boil the shalots with the
vinegar, ketchup, and anchovy sauce, for 10 minutes, and pour the whole,
_boiling_, over the mixture in the basin; stir well, and reduce it to a
proper thickness; put it into a bottle, with a bruised shalot at the
bottom, and store away for use. This makes an excellent relish, and if
properly prepared will keep for years.

[Illustration: MUSTARD.]

    MUSTARD.--Before the year 1729, mustard was not known at English
    tables. About that time an old woman, of the name of Clements,
    residing in Durham, began to grind the seed in a mill, and to
    pass the flour through several processes necessary to free the
    seed from its husks. She kept her secret for many years to
    herself, during which she sold large quantities of mustard
    throughout the country, but especially in London. Here it was
    introduced to the royal table, when it received the approval of
    George I. From the circumstance of Mrs. Clements being a
    resident at Durham, it obtained the name of Durham mustard. In
    the county of that name it is still principally cultivated, and
    the plant is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth. It is
    the best stimulant employed to impart strength to the digestive
    organs, and even in its previously coarsely-pounded state, had a
    high reputation with our ancestors.

INDIAN PICKLE (very Superior).

451. INGREDIENTS.--To each gallon of vinegar allow 6 cloves of garlic,
12 shalots, 2 sticks of sliced horseradish, 1/4 lb. of bruised ginger, 2
oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 12
cloves, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1/4 lb. of mustard, 1
oz. of turmeric; a white cabbage, cauliflowers, radish-pods, French
beans, gherkins, small round pickling-onions, nasturtiums, capsicums,
chilies, &c.

_Mode_.--Cut the cabbage, which must be hard and white, into slices, and
the cauliflowers into small branches; sprinkle salt over them in a large
dish, and let them remain two days; then dry them, and put them into a
very large jar, with garlic, shalots, horseradish, ginger, pepper,
allspice, and cloves, in the above proportions. Boil sufficient vinegar
to cover them, which pour over, and, when cold, cover up to keep them
free from dust. As the other things for the pickle ripen at different
times, they may be added as they are ready: these will be radish-pods,
French beans, gherkins, small onions, nasturtiums, capsicums, chilies,
&c. &c. As these are procured, they must, first of all, be washed in a
little cold vinegar, wiped, and then simply added to the other
ingredients in the large jar, only taking care that they are _covered_
by the vinegar. If more vinegar should be wanted to add to the pickle,
do not omit first to boil it before adding it to the rest. When you have
collected all the things you require, turn all out in a large pan, and
thoroughly mix them. Now put the mixed vegetables into smaller jars,
without any of the vinegar; then boil the vinegar again, adding as much
more as will be required to fill the different jars, and also cayenne,
mustard-seed, turmeric, and mustard, which must be well mixed with a
little cold vinegar, allowing the quantities named above to each gallon
of vinegar. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, over the pickle, and when
cold, tie down with a bladder. If the pickle is wanted for immediate
use, the vinegar should be boiled twice more, but the better way is to
make it during one season for use during the next. It will keep for
years, if care is taken that the vegetables are quite covered by the
vinegar.

This recipe was taken from the directions of a lady whose pickle was
always pronounced excellent by all who tasted it, and who has, for many
years, exactly followed the recipe given above.

__Note_.--For small families, perhaps the above quantity of pickle will
be considered too large; but this may be decreased at pleasure, taking
care to properly proportion the various ingredients.

[Illustration: INDIA PICKLE.]

    KEEPING PICKLES.--Nothing shows more, perhaps, the difference
    between a tidy thrifty housewife and a lady to whom these
    desirable epithets may not honestly be applied, than the
    appearance of their respective store-closets. The former is
    able, the moment anything; is wanted, to put her hand on it at
    once; no time is lost, no vexation incurred, no dish spoilt for
    the want of "just little something,"--the latter, on the
    contrary, hunts all over her cupboard for the ketchup the cook
    requires, or the pickle the husband thinks he should like a
    little of with his cold roast beef or mutton-chop, and vainly
    seeks for the Embden groats, or arrowroot, to make one of her
    little boys some gruel. One plan, then, we strenuously advise
    all who do not follow, to begin at once, and that is, to label
    all their various pickles and store sauces, in the same way as
    the cut here shows. It will occupy a little time at first, but
    there will be economy of it in the long run.

    VINEGAR.--This term is derived from the two French words _vin
    aigre_, 'sour wine,' and should, therefore, be strictly applied
    to that which is made only from wine. As the acid is the same,
    however it is procured, that made from ale also takes the same
    name. Nearly all ancient nations were acquainted with the use of
    vinegar. We learn in _Ruth_, that the reapers in the East soaked
    their bread in it to freshen it. The Romans kept large
    quantities of it in their cellars, using it, to a great extent,
    in their seasonings and sauces. This people attributed very
    beneficial qualities to it, as it was supposed to be digestive,
    antibilious, and antiscorbutic, as well as refreshing.
    Spartianus, a Latin historian, tells us that, mixed with water,
    it was the drink of the soldiers, and that, thanks to this
    beverage, the veterans of the Roman army braved, by its use, the
    inclemency and variety of all the different seasons and climates
    of Europe, Asia, and Africa. It is said, the Spanish peasantry,
    and other inhabitants of the southern parts of Europe, still
    follow this practice, and add to a gallon of water about a gill
    of wine vinegar, with a little salt; and that this drink, with a
    little bread, enables them, under the heat of their burning sun,
    to sustain the labours of the field.

INDIAN CHETNEY SAUCE.

452. INGREDIENTS.--8 oz. of sharp, sour apples, pared and cored; 8 oz.
of tomatoes, 8 oz. of salt, 8 oz. of brown, sugar, 8 oz. of stoned
raisins, 4 oz. of cayenne, 4 oz. of powdered ginger, 2 oz. of garlic, 2
oz. of shalots, 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 quart of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Chop the apples in small square pieces, and add to them the
other ingredients. Mix the whole well together, and put in a
well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for a
month, taking care to put on the lid after this operation; strain, but
do not squeeze it dry; store it away in clean jars or bottles for use,
and the liquor will serve as an excellent sauce for meat or fish.

_Seasonable_.--Make this sauce when tomatoes are in full season, that
is, from the beginning of September to the end of October.

    PICKLES.--The ancient Greeks and Romans held their pickles in
    high estimation. They consisted of flowers, herbs, roots, and
    vegetables, preserved in vinegar, and which were kept, for a
    long time, in cylindrical vases with wide mouths. Their cooks
    prepared pickles with the greatest care, and the various
    ingredients were macerated in oil, brine, and vinegar, with
    which they were often impregnated drop by drop. Meat, also,
    after having been cut into very small pieces, was treated in the
    same manner.

ITALIAN SAUCE (Brown).

453. INGREDIENTS.--A few chopped mushrooms and shalots, 1/2 pint of
stock, No. 105, 1/2 glass of Madeira, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2
teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

_Mode_.--Put the stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms, shalots, and
Madeira, and stew gently for 1/4 hour, then add the remaining
ingredients, and let them just boil. When the sauce is done enough, put
it in another stewpan, and warm it in a _bain marie_. (_See_ No. 430.)
The mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted, as they
will then become black.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a small dish.


ITALIAN SAUCE (White).

454. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 tablespoonfuls of
chopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of ham,
minced very fine; 1/4 pint of Béchamel, No. 367; salt to taste, a few
drops of garlic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze of
lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock and
ham, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour, when add the Béchamel. Let it
just boil up, and then strain it through a tammy; season with the above
ingredients, and serve very hot. If this sauce should not have retained
a nice white colour, a little cream may be added.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.

_Note_.--To preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling, throw
them into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added.


TO PICKLE LEMONS WITH THE PEEL ON.

455. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 2 quarts of boiling water; to each quart of
vinegar allow 1/2 oz. of cloves, 1/2 oz. of white pepper, 1 oz. of
bruised ginger, 1/4 oz. of mace and chilies, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1/2
stick of sliced horseradish, a few cloves of garlic.

_Mode_.--Put the lemons into a brine that will bear an egg; let them
remain in it 6 days, stirring them every day; have ready 2 quarts of
boiling water, put in the lemons, and allow them to boil for 1/4 hour;
take them out, and let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry and cold.
Boil up sufficient vinegar to cover the lemons, with all the above
ingredients, allowing the same proportion as stated to each quart of
vinegar. Pack the lemons in a jar, pour over the vinegar, &c. boiling
hot, and tie down with a bladder. They will be fit for use in about 12
months, or rather sooner.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made from November to April.

    THE LEMON.--In the earlier ages of the world, the lemon does not
    appear to have been at all known, and the Romans only became
    acquainted with it at a very late period, and then only used it
    to keep moths from their garments. Its acidity would seem to
    have been unpleasant to them; and in Pliny's time, at the
    commencement of the Christian era, this fruit was hardly
    accepted, otherwise than as an excellent antidote against the
    effects of poison. Many anecdotes have been related concerning
    the anti-venomous properties of the lemon; Athenaeus, a Latin
    writer, telling us, that on one occasion, two men felt no
    effects from the bites of dangerous serpents, because they had
    previously eaten of this fruit.

TO PICKLE LEMONS WITHOUT THE PEEL.

456. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 1 lb. of fine salt; to each quart of
vinegar, the same ingredients as No. 455.

_Mode_.--Peel the lemons, slit each one down 3 times, so as not to
divide them, and rub the salt well into the divisions; place them in a
pan, where they must remain for a week, turning them every other day;
then put them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the salt has
become perfectly dry; then arrange them in a jar. Pour over sufficient
boiling vinegar to cover them, to which have been added the ingredients
mentioned in the foregoing recipe; tie down closely, and in about 9
months they will be fit for use.

_Seasonable_.--The best time to make this is from November to April.

_Note_.--After this pickle has been made from 4 to 5 months, the liquor
may be strained and bottled, and will be found an excellent lemon
ketchup.


    LEMON-JUICE.--Citric acid is the principal component part of
    lemon-juice, which, in addition to the agreeableness of its
    flavour, is also particularly cooling and grateful. It is
    likewise an antiscorbutic; and this quality enhances its value.
    In order to combat the fatal effects of scurvy amongst the crews
    of ships at sea, a regular allowance of lemon-juice is served
    out to the men; and by this practice, the disease has almost
    entirely disappeared. By putting the juice into bottles, and
    pouring on the top sufficient oil to cover it, it may be
    preserved for a considerable time. Italy and Turkey export great
    quantities of it in this manner.

LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS.

457. INGREDIENTS.--1 small lemon, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 380.

_Mode_.--Cut the lemon into very thin slices, and these again into very
small dice. Have ready 3/4 pint of melted butter, made by recipe No.
380; put in the lemon; let it just simmer, but not boil, and pour it
over the fowls.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a pair of large fowls.


LEMON WHITE SAUCE, FOR FOWLS, FRICASSEES, &c.

458. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of cream, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1/2
teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon thyme, 3 oz. of
butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teacupful of white stock; salt to
taste.

_Mode_.--Put the cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best),
with the lemon-peel, pepper, and thyme, and let these infuse for 1/2
hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until there is a nice
flavour of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of butter and flour in
the above proportions; stir this well in, and put in the lemon-juice at
the moment of serving; mix the stock with the cream, and add a little
salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed
together.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a pair of large boiled fowls.

_Note_.--Where the expense of the cream is objected to, milk may be
substituted for it. In this case, an additional dessertspoonful, or
rather more, of flour must be added.

[Illustration: LEMON THYME.]

    LEMON THYME.--Two or three tufts of this species of thyme,
    _Thymus citriodorus_, usually find a place in the herb
    compartment of the kitchen-garden. It is a trailing evergreen,
    is of smaller growth than the common kind (_see_ No. 166), and
    is remarkable for its smell, which closely resembles that of the
    rind of a lemon. Hence its distinctive name. It is used for some
    particular dishes, in which the fragrance of the lemon is
    desired to slightly predominate.

LEAMINGTON SAUCE (an Excellent Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, Hashes,
Soups, &c.).

_(Author's Recipe.)_

459. INGREDIENTS.--Walnuts. To each quart of walnut-juice allow 3 quarts
of vinegar, 1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of shalots,
3/4 oz. of garlic, 1/2 pint of port wine.

_Mode_.--Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they
appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they
become hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a pulp, strew some
salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days,
occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to
_each quart_ of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar,
soy, cayenne, shalots, garlic, and port wine. Pound each ingredient
separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for
use in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed.

_Seasonable_.--This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are
obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July.


LEMON BRANDY.

460. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of brandy, the rind of two small lemons, 2 oz.
of loaf-sugar, 1/4 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Peel the lemons rather thin, taking care to have none of the
white pith. Put the rinds into a bottle with the brandy, and let them
infuse for 24 hours, when they should be strained. Now boil the sugar
with the water for a few minutes, skim it, and, when cold, add it to the
brandy. A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring
for boiled custards.

    LEMON RIND OR PEEL.--This contains an essential oil of a very
    high flavour and fragrance, and is consequently esteemed both a
    wholesome and agreeable stomachic. It is used, as will be seen
    by many recipes in this book, as an ingredient for flavouring a
    number of various dishes. Under the name of CANDIED LEMON-PEEL,
    it is cleared of the pulp and preserved by sugar, when it
    becomes an excellent sweetmeat. By the ancient medical
    philosopher Galen, and others, it may be added, that dried
    lemon-peel was considered as one of the best digestives, and
    recommended to weak and delicate persons.

LIAISON OF EGGS FOR THICKENING SAUCES.

461. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 3 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of milk or
cream.

_Mode_.--Beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add the milk, and
strain the whole through a hair-sieve. When the liaison is being added
to the sauce it is intended to thicken, care must be exercised to keep
stirring it during the whole time, or, otherwise, the eggs will curdle.
It should only just simmer, but not boil.


LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE FOR POULTRY.

462. INGREDIENTS.--The liver of a fowl, one lemon, salt to taste, 1/2
pint of melted butter. No. 376.

_Mode_.--Wash the liver, and let it boil for a few minutes; peel the
lemon very thin, remove the white part and pips, and cut it into very
small dice; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very
fine; add these ingredients to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter;
season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but
do not allow it to boil, lest the butter should oil.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of small fowls.


LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE FOR POULTRY.

463. INGREDIENTS.--The liver of a fowl, one tablespoonful of minced
parsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376.

_Mode_.--Wash and score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, and mince
it very fine; blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley, of which there
should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon; add this, with
the minced liver, to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; let it
just boil; when serve.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer.

_Sufficient_ for a pair of small fowls.


LOBSTER SAUCE, to serve with Turbot, Salmon, Brill, &c.

(_Very Good_.)

464. INGREDIENTS.--1 middling-sized hen lobster, 3/4 pint of melted
butter, No. 376; 1 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 oz. of butter,
salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace when liked, 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls of cream.

_Mode_.--Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable, in order to
render this sauce as good as it ought to be. Pick the meat from the
shells, and cut it into small square pieces; put the spawn, which will
be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mortar with 1/2 oz. of
butter, and pound it quite smooth; rub it through a hair-sieve, and
cover up till wanted. Make 3/4 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 376;
put in all the ingredients except the lobster-meat, and well mix the
sauce before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square
form, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it
get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the colour would
immediately be spoiled; for it should be remembered that this sauce
should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be
served with turbot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed
through a sieve without butter) should be saved to garnish with; but as
the goodness, flavour, and appearance of the sauce so much depend on
having a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for garnishing the
better.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for 6
persons.

_Note_.--Melted butter made with milk, No. 380, will be found to answer
very well for lobster sauce, as by employing it a nice white colour will
be obtained. Less quantity than the above may be made by using a very
small lobster, to which add only 1/2 pint of melted butter, and season
as above. Where economy is desired, the cream may be dispensed with, and
the remains of a cold lobster left from table, may, with a little care,
be converted into a very good sauce.


MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER, for putting into Broiled Fish just before it is
sent to Table.

465. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of minced
parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large lemon.

_Mode_.--Work the above ingredients well together, and let them be
thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon. If this is used as a sauce, it may
be poured either under or over the meat or fish it is intended to be
served with.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5d.

Note.--4 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367, 2 do. of white stock, No.
107, with 2 oz. of the above maître d'hôtel butter stirred into it, and
just allowed to simmer for 1 minute, will be found an excellent hot
maître d'hôtel sauce.

    THE MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL.--The house-steward of England is synonymous
    with the maître d'hôtel of France; and, in ancient times,
    amongst the Latins, he was called procurator, or major-domo. In
    Rome, the slaves, after they had procured the various articles
    necessary for the repasts of the day, would return to the
    spacious kitchen laden with meat, game, sea-fish, vegetables,
    fruit, &c. Each one would then lay his basket at the feet of the
    major-domo, who would examine its contents and register them on
    his tablets, placing in the pantry contiguous to the
    dining-room, those of the provisions which need no preparation,
    and consigning the others to the more immediate care of the
    cooks.

MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT), to serve with Calf's Head, Boiled Eels, and
different Fish.

466. INGREDIENTS.--1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry-trimmings, 2
shalots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, 3/4 pint of water, 2 oz. of
butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped
parsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste; the juice of 1/2 large
lemon, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, and over it the
poultry-trimmings (if these are not at hand, veal should be
substituted), with the shalots, garlic, and bay-leaf. Pour in the water,
and let the whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquor is
reduced to a full 1/2 pint. Then strain this gravy, put it in another
saucepan, make a thickening of butter and flour in the above
proportions, and stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, until it
is perfectly smooth and rather thick, care being taken that the butter
does not float on the surface. Skim well, add the remaining ingredients,
let the sauce gradually heat, but do not allow it to boil. If this sauce
is intended for an entrée, it is necessary to make it of a sufficient
thickness, so that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per pint.

_Sufficient_ for re-warming the remains of 1/2 calf's head, or a small
dish of cold flaked turbot, cod, &c.


MAIGRE MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT).

(Made without Meat.)

467. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 heaped
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of
1/2 large lemon; when liked, 2 minced shalots.

_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 376; stir in the
above ingredients, and let them just boil; when it is ready to serve.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 9d. per pint.


MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing for cold Chicken, Meat, and other
cold Dishes.

468. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1
tablespoonful of white stock, No. 107, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.

_Mode_.--Put the yolks of the eggs into a basin, with a seasoning of
pepper and salt; have ready the above quantities of oil and vinegar, in
separate vessels; add them _very gradually_ to the eggs; continue
stirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as herein consists
the secret of having a nice smooth sauce. It cannot be stirred too
frequently, and it should be made in a very cool place, or, if ice is at
hand, it should be mixed over it. When the vinegar and oil are well
incorporated with the eggs, add the stock and cream, stirring all the
time, and it will then be ready for use.

For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may be coloured with lobster-spawn,
pounded; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little
parsley-juice may be used to add to its appearance. Cucumber, Tarragon,
or any other flavoured vinegar, may be substituted for plain, where they
are liked.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a small salad.

_Note_.--In mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs, put in first a few
drops of oil, and then a few drops of vinegar, never adding a large
quantity of either at one time. By this means, you can be more certain
of the sauce not curdling. Patience and practice, let us add, are two
essentials for making this sauce good.


MINT SAUCE, to serve with Roast Lamb.

469. INGREDIENTS.--4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2
dessertspoonfuls of pounded white sugar, 1/4 pint of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Wash the mint, which should be young and fresh-gathered, free
from grit; pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and
put them into a tureen; add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till the
former is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 hours
before wanted for table, as the vinegar then becomes impregnated with
the flavour of the mint. By many persons, the above proportion of sugar
would not be considered sufficient; but as tastes vary, we have given
the quantity which we have found to suit the general palate.

_Average cost_, 3d.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a middling-sized joint of lamb.

_Note_.--Where green mint is scarce and not obtainable, mint vinegar may
be substituted for it, and will be found very acceptable in early
spring.

[Illustration: MINT.]

    MINT.--The common mint cultivated in our gardens is known as the
    _Mentha viridis_, and is employed in different culinary
    processes, being sometimes boiled with certain dishes, and
    afterwards withdrawn. It has an agreeable aromatic flavour, and
    forms an ingredient in soups, and sometimes is used in spring
    salads. It is valuable as a stomachic and antispasmodic; on
    which account it is generally served at table with pea-soup.
    Several of its species grow wild in low situations in the
    country.

MINT VINEGAR.

470. INGREDIENTS.--Vinegar, mint.

_Mode_.--Procure some nice fresh mint, pick the leaves from the stalks,
and fill a bottle or jar with them. Add vinegar to them until the bottle
is full; _cover closely_ to exclude the air, and let it infuse for a
fortnight. Then strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles for
use, of which the corks should be sealed.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made in June, July, or August.


MIXED PICKLE.

(_Very Good_.)

471. INGREDIENTS.--To each gallon of vinegar allow 1/4 lb. of bruised
ginger, 1/4 lb. of mustard, 1/4 lb. of salt, 2 oz. of mustard-seed,
1-1/2 oz. of turmeric, 1 oz. of ground black pepper, 1/4 oz. of cayenne,
cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French beans,
nasturtiums, capsicums.

_Mode_.--Have a large jar, with a tightly-fitting lid, in which put as
much vinegar as required, reserving a little to mix the various powders
to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pepper, and
cayenne; mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain; add
all the ingredients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor in a
warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden
spoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to
it. As these come into season, have them gathered on a dry day, and,
after merely wiping them with a cloth, to free them from moisture, put
them into the pickle. The cauliflowers, it may be said, must be divided
into small bunches. Put all these into the pickle raw, and at the end of
the season, when there have been added as many of the vegetables as
could be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder. As
none of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat
till 12 months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a
wooden spoon tied to the jar; and its contents, it may be repeated, must
be stirred every morning.

_Seasonable_.--Make the pickle-liquor in May or June, as the season
arrives for the various vegetables to be picked.


MUSHROOM KETCHUP.

472. INGREDIENTS.--To each peck of mushrooms 1/2 lb. of salt; to each
quart of mushroom-liquor 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1/2
oz. of ginger, 2 blades of pounded mace.

_Mode_.--Choose full-grown mushroom-flaps, and take care they are
perfectly _fresh-gathered_ when the weather is tolerably dry; for, if
they are picked during very heavy rain, the ketchup from which they are
made is liable to get musty, and will not keep long. Put a layer of them
in a deep pan, sprinkle salt over them, and then another layer of
mushrooms, and so on alternately. Let them remain for a few hours, when
break them up with the hand; put them in a nice cool place for 3 days,
occasionally stirring and mashing them well, to extract from them as
much juice as possible. Now measure the quantity of liquor without
straining, and to each quart allow the above proportion of spices, &c.
Put all into a stone jar, cover it up very closely, put it in a saucepan
of boiling water, set it over the fire, and let it boil for 3 hours.
Have ready a nice clean stewpan; turn into it the contents of the jar,
and let the whole simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; pour it into a jug,
where it should stand in a cool place till the next day; then pour it
off into another jug, and strain it into very dry clean bottles, and do
not squeeze the mushrooms. To each pint of ketchup add a few drops of
brandy. Be careful not to shake the contents, but leave all the sediment
behind in the jug; cork well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so as
perfectly to exclude the air. When a very clear bright ketchup is
wanted, the liquor must be strained through a very fine hair-sieve, or
flannel bag, _after_ it has been very gently poured off; if the
operation is not successful, it must be repeated until you have quite a
clear liquor. It should be examined occasionally, and if it is spoiling,
should be reboiled with a few peppercorns.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of September to the middle of October,
when this ketchup should be made.

_Note_.--This flavouring ingredient, if genuine and well prepared, is
one of the most useful store sauces to the experienced cook, and no
trouble should be spared in its preparation. Double ketchup is made by
reducing the liquor to half the quantity; for example, 1 quart must be
boiled down to 1 pint. This goes farther than ordinary ketchup, as so
little is required to flavour a good quantity of gravy. The sediment may
also be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to answer for
flavouring thick soups or gravies.

    HOW TO DISTINGUISH MUSHROOMS FROM TOADSTOOLS.--The cultivated
    mushroom, known as _Agaricus campestris_, may be distinguished
    from other poisonous kinds of fungi by its having pink or
    flesh-coloured gills, or under-side, and by its invariably
    having an agreeable smell, which the toadstool has not. When
    young, mushrooms are like a small round button, both the stalk
    and head being white. As they grow larger, they expand their
    heads by degrees into a flat form, the gills underneath being at
    first of a pale flesh-colour, but becoming, as they stand
    longer, dark brown or blackish. Nearly all the poisonous kinds
    are brown, and have in general a rank and putrid smell. Edible
    mushrooms are found in closely-fed pastures, but seldom grow in
    woods, where most of the poisonous sorts are to be found.

TO DRY MUSHROOMS.

473. _Mode_.--Wipe them clean, take away the brown part, and peel off
the skin; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when they
will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags, which hang in a dry
place. When wanted for use, put them into cold gravy, bring them
gradually to simmer, and it will be found that they will regain nearly
their usual size.

[Illustration: THE MUSHROOM.]

    THE MUSHROOM.--The cultivated or garden mushroom is a species of
    fungus, which, in England, is considered the best, and is there
    usually eaten. The tribe, however, is numerous, and a large
    proportion of them are poisonous; hence it is always dangerous
    to make use of mushrooms gathered in their wild state. In some
    parts of Europe, as in Germany, Russia, and Poland, many species
    grow wild, and are used as food; but in Britain, two only are
    generally eaten. These are mostly employed for the flavouring of
    dishes, and are also dried and pickled. CATSUP, or KETCHUP, is
    made from them by mixing spices and salt with their juice. The
    young, called buttons, are the best for pickling when in the
    globular form.

BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Roast Meat, &c.

474. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1/2 pint of good beef
gravy, No. 435, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup (if at hand),
thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir over the
fire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks and
wiping them free from grit and dirt; the large flap mushrooms cut into
small pieces will answer for a brown sauce, when the buttons are not
obtainable; put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very gently for
about 10 minutes; then add the ketchup, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 10 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.

_Note_.--When fresh mushrooms are not obtainable, the powder No. 477 may
be used as a substitute for brown sauce.


WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Boiled Fowls, Cutlets, &c.

I.

475. INGREDIENTS.--Rather more than 1/2 pint of button mushrooms,
lemon-juice and water, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367,
1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Turn the mushrooms white by putting them into lemon-juice and
water, having previously cut off the stalks and wiped them perfectly
free from grit. Chop them, and put them in a stewpan with the butter.
When the mushrooms are softened, add the Béchamel, and simmer for about
5 minutes; should they, however, not be done enough, allow rather more
time. They should not boil longer than necessary, as they would then
lose their colour and flavour. Rub the whole through a tammy, and serve
very hot. After this, it should be warmed in a bain marie.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.


II.

_A More Simple Method_.

476. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk, No. 380;
1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, if
at hand; cayenne and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Make the melted butter by recipe No. 380, and add to it the
mushrooms, which must be nicely cleaned, and free from grit, and the
stalks cut off. Let them simmer gently for about 10 minutes, or until
they are quite tender. Put in the seasoning and ketchup; let it just
boil, when serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.

    GROWTH OF THE MUSHROOM AND OTHER FUNGI.--The quick growth of the
    mushroom and other fungi is no less wonderful than the length of
    time they live, and the numerous dangers they resist while they
    continue in the dormant state. To spring up "like a mushroom in
    a night" is a scriptural mode of expressing celerity; and this
    completely accords with all the observations which have been
    made concerning this curious class of plants. Mr. Sowerby
    remarks--"I have often placed specimens of the _Phallus caninus_
    by a window over-night, while in the egg-form, and they have
    been fully grown by the morning."

MUSHROOM POWDER (a valuable addition to Sauces and Gravies, when fresh
Mushrooms are not obtainable).

477. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 peck of large mushrooms, 2 onions, 12 cloves, 1/4
oz. of pounded mace, 2 teaspoonfuls of white pepper.

_Mode_.--Peel the mushrooms, wipe them perfectly free from grit and
dirt, remove the black fur, and reject all those that are at all
worm-eaten; put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients, but
without water; shake them over a clear fire, till all the liquor is
dried up, and be careful not to let them burn; arrange them on tins, and
dry them in a slow oven; pound them to a fine powder, which put into
small _dry_ bottles; cork well, seal the corks, and keep it in a dry
place. In using this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving,
when it will merely require one boil-up. The flavour imparted by this
means to the gravy, ought to be exceedingly good.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made in September, or at the beginning of
October.

_Note_.--If the bottles in which it is stored away are not perfectly
dry, as, also the mushroom powder, it will keep good but a very short
time.


PICKLED MUSHROOMS.

478. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms; to each
quart of mushrooms, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 oz. of ground pepper,
salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Choose some nice young button mushrooms for pickling, and rub
off the skin with a piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the stalks;
if very large, take out the red inside, and reject the black ones, as
they are too old. Put them in a stewpan, sprinkle salt over them, with
pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion; shake them well over a
clear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until it is all
dried up again; then add as much vinegar as will cover them; just let it
simmer for 1 minute, and store it away in stone jars for use. When cold,
tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place; they will remain good for
a length of time, and are generally considered delicious.

_Seasonable_.--Make this the same time as ketchup, from the beginning of
September to the middle of October.

    NATURE OF THE MUSHROOM.--Locality has evidently a considerable
    influence on the nature of the juices of the mushroom; for it
    has been discovered, after fatal experience, that some species,
    which are perfectly harmless when raised in open meadows and
    pasturelands, become virulently poisonous when they happen to
    grow in contact with stagnant water or putrescent animal and
    vegetable substances. What the precise nature of the poison in
    fungi may be, has not been accurately ascertained.

A VERY RICH AND GOOD MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Fowls or Rabbits.

479. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of mushroom-buttons, salt to taste, a little
grated nutmeg, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 pint of cream, 2 oz. of
butter, flour to thicken.

_Mode_.--Rub the buttons with a piece of flannel and salt, to take off
the skin; cut off the stalks, and put them in a stewpan with the above
ingredients, previously kneading together the butter and flour; boil the
whole for about ten minutes, stirring all the time. Pour some of the
sauce over the fowls, and the remainder serve in a tureen.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of fowls.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.


HOW TO MIX MUSTARD.

480. INGREDIENTS.--Mustard, salt, and water.

_Mode_.--Mustard should be mixed with water that has been boiled and
allowed to cool; hot water destroys its essential properties, and raw
cold water might cause it to ferment. Put the mustard in a cup, with a
small pinch of salt, and mix with it very gradually sufficient boiled
water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix
well, and rub the lumps well down with the back of a spoon, as
well-mixed mustard should be perfectly free from these. The mustard-pot
should not be more than half full, or rather less if it will not be used
in a day or two, as it is so much better when freshly mixed.


TARTAR MUSTARD.

481. INGREDIENTS.--Horseradish vinegar, cayenne, 1/2 a teacupful of
mustard.

_Mode_.--Have ready sufficient horseradish vinegar to mix with the above
proportion of mustard; put the mustard in a cup, with a slight seasoning
of cayenne; mix it perfectly smooth with the vinegar, adding this a
little at a time; rub down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may
appear, and do not let it be too thin. Mustard may be flavoured in
various ways, with Tarragon, shalot, celery, and many other vinegars,
herbs, spices, &c.; but this is more customary in France than in
England, as there it is merely considered a "vehicle of flavours," as it
has been termed.


PICKLED NASTURTIUMS (a very good Substitute for Capers)

482. INGREDIENTS.--To each pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of salt, 6
peppercorns, nasturtiums.

_Mode_.--Gather the nasturtium-pods on a dry day, and wipe them clean
with a cloth; put them in a dry glass bottle, with vinegar, salt, and
pepper in the above proportion. If you cannot find enough ripe to fill a
bottle, cork up what you have got until you have some more fit: they may
be added from day to day. Bung up the bottles, and seal or rosin the
tops. They will be fit for use in 10 or 12 months; and the best way is
to make them one season for the next.

_Seasonable_.--Look for nasturtium-pods from the end of July to the end
of August.

[Illustration: NASTURTIUMS.]

    NASTURTIUMS.--The elegant nasturtium-plant, called by
    naturalists _Tropoeolum_, and which sometimes goes by the name
    of Indian cress, came originally from Peru, but was easily made
    to grow in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers are of a
    slightly hot nature, and many consider them a good adjunct to
    salads, to which they certainly add a pretty appearance. When
    the beautiful blossoms, which may be employed with great effect
    in garnishing dishes, are off, then the fruit is used as
    described in the above recipe.

FRENCH ONION SAUCE, or SOUBISE.

483. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, 1 bay-leaf, seasoning
to taste of pounded mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small piece of ham.

_Mode_.--Peel the onions and cut them in halves; put them in a stewpan,
with just sufficient water to cover them, and add the bay-leaf, ham,
cayenne, and mace; be careful to keep the lid closely shut, and simmer
them until tender. Take them out and drain thoroughly; rub them through
a tammy or sieve (an old one does for the purpose) with a wooden spoon,
and put them to 1/2 pint of Béchamel; keep stirring over the fire until
it boils, when serve. If it should require any more seasoning, add it to
taste.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to boil the onions.

_Average cost_, 10d. for this quantity.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.


WHITE ONION SAUCE, for Boiled Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of Mutton, &c.

484. INGREDIENTS.--9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized ones, 1 pint of
melted butter made with milk (No. 380), 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, or
rather more.

_Mode_.--Peel the onions and put them into water to which a little salt
has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain for 1/4
hour. Then put them in a stewpan, cover them with water, and let them
boil until tender, and, if the onions should be very strong, change the
water after they have been boiling for 1/4 hour. Drain them thoroughly,
chop them, and rub them through a tammy or sieve. Make 1 pint of melted
butter, by recipe No. 380, and when that boils, put in the onions, with
a seasoning of salt; stir it till it simmers, when it will be ready to
serve. If these directions are carefully attended to, this onion sauce
will be delicious.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour, to boil the onions.

_Average cost_, 9d. per pint.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or boiled rabbit.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note_.--To make this sauce very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions,
which can be procured from the beginning of September to Christmas. 2 or
3 tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving, will be found to
improve its appearance very much. Small onions, when very young, may be
cooked whole, and served in melted butter. A sieve or tammy should be
kept expressly for onions: an old one answers the purpose, as it is
liable to retain the flavour and smell, which of course would be
excessively disagreeable in delicate preparations.


BROWN ONION SAUCE.

485. INGREDIENTS.--6 large onions, rather more than 1/2 pint of good
gravy, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan, with the
above quantity of butter, keeping them well stirred, that they do not
get black. When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, and let them simmer
gently until tender. Now skim off every particle of fat, add the
seasoning, and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve; put it back in
the saucepan to warm, and when it boils, serve.

_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note_.--Where a very high flavouring is liked, add 1 tablespoonful of
mushroom ketchup, or a small quantity of port wine.

    HISTORY OF THE ONION.--It is not supposed that any variety of
    the onion is indigenous to Britain, as when the large and mild
    roots imported from warmer climates, have been cultivated in
    these islands a few years, they deteriorate both in size and
    sweetness. It is therefore most likely that this plant was first
    introduced into England from continental Europe, and that it
    originally was produced in a southern climate, and has gradually
    become acclimatized to a colder atmosphere. (_See_ No. 139.)

PICKLED ONIONS (a very Simple Method, and exceedingly Good).

486. INGREDIENTS.--Pickling onions; to each quart of vinegar, 2
teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper.

_Mode_.--Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and, with the
fingers, take off the thin outside skin; then, with a silver knife
(steel should not be used, as it spoils the colour of the onions),
remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have ready
some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as they are peeled, put them
in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, with pepper and
allspice in the above proportions, taking care that each jar has its
share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them in
a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a most
simple recipe and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. They
should be eaten within 6 or 8 months after being done, as the onions are
liable to become soft.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August.


PICKLED ONIONS.

487. INGREDIENTS.--1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water, milk; to
each 1/2 gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/4 teaspoonful of
cayenne, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of
whole nutmeg bruised, 8 cloves, 1/4 oz. of mace.

_Mode_.--Gather the onions, which should not be too small, when they are
quite dry and ripe; wipe off the dirt, but do not pare them; make a
strong solution of salt and water, into which put the onions, and change
this, morning and night, for 3 days, and save the _last_ brine they were
put in. Then take the outside skin off, and put them into a tin saucepan
capable of holding them all, as they are always better done together.
Now take equal quantities of milk and the last salt and water the onions
were in, and pour this to them; to this add 2 large spoonfuls of salt,
put them over the fire, and watch them very attentively. Keep constantly
turning the onions about with a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom to
the top, and _vice versâ_; and let the milk and water run through the
holes of the skimmer. Remember, the onions must never boil, or, if they
do, they will be good for nothing; and they should be quite transparent.
Keep the onions stirred for a few minutes, and, in stirring them, be
particular not to break them. Then have ready a pan with a colander,
into which turn the onions to drain, covering them with a cloth to keep
in the steam. Place on a table an old cloth, 2 or 3 times double; put
the onions on it when quite hot, and over them an old piece of blanket;
cover this closely over them, to keep in the steam. Let them remain till
the next day, when they will be quite cold, and look yellow and
shrivelled; take off the shrivelled skins, when they should be as white
as snow. Put them in a pan, make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining
ingredients, boil all these up, and pour hot over the onions in the pan.
Cover very closely to keep in all the steam, and let them stand till the
following day, when they will be quite cold. Put them into jars or
bottles well bunged, and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on the
top of each jar or bottle. Tie them down with bladder, and let them
stand in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit
for use. They should be beautifully white, and eat crisp, without the
least softness, and will keep good many months.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August.


ORANGE GRAVY, for Wildfowl, Widgeon, Teal, &c.

488. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, 1 small onion, 3 or
4 strips of lemon or orange peel, a few leaves of basil, if at hand, the
juice of a Seville orange or lemon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass of
port wine.

_Mode_.--Put the onion, cut in slices, into a stewpan with the stock,
orange-peel, and basil, and let them simmer very gently for 1/4 hour or
rather longer, should the gravy not taste sufficiently of the peel.
Strain it off, and add to the gravy the remaining ingredients; let the
whole heat through, and, when on the point of boiling, serve very hot in
a tureen which should have a cover to it.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_ for a small tureen.


OYSTER FORCEMEAT, for Roast or Boiled Turkey.

489. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of chopped suet
or butter, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg,
salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 18 oysters.

_Mode_.--Grate the bread very fine, and be careful that no large lumps
remain; put it into a basin with the suet, which must be very finely
minced, or, when butter is used, that must be cut up into small pieces.
Add the herbs, also chopped as small as possible, and seasoning; mix all
these well together, until the ingredients are thoroughly mingled. Open
and beard the oysters, chop them, but not too small, and add them to the
other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, and, with the hand, work
altogether, until it is smoothly mixed. The turkey should not be stuffed
too full: if there should be too much forcemeat, roll it into balls, fry
them, and use them as a garnish.

_Sufficient_ for 1 turkey.


OYSTER KETCHUP.

490. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient oysters to fill a pint measure, 1 pint of
sherry, 3 oz. of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne, 2 drachms of pounded mace.

_Mode_.--Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill a
pint measure; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with the
sherry; strain the oysters, and put them in a mortar with the salt,
cayenne, and mace; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it
to the liquor in which they were scalded; boil it again five minutes,
and skim well; rub the whole through a sieve, and, when cold, bottle and
cork closely. The corks should be sealed.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Note_.--Cider may be substituted for the sherry.


PICKLED OYSTERS.

491. INGREDIENTS.--100 oysters; to each 1/2 pint of vinegar, 1 blade of
pounded mace, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 12 black peppercorns.

_Mode_.--Get the oysters in good condition, open them, place them in a
saucepan, and let them simmer in their own liquor for about 10 minutes,
very gently; then take them out, one by one, and place them in a jar,
and cover them, when cold, with a pickle made as follows:--Measure the
oyster-liquor; add to it the same quantity of vinegar, with mace,
lemon-peel, and pepper in the above proportion, and boil it for 5
minutes; when cold, pour over the oysters, and tie them down very
closely, as contact with the air spoils them.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Note_.--Put this pickle away in small jars; because directly one is
opened, its contents should immediately be eaten, as they soon spoil.
The pickle should not be kept more than 2 or 3 months.


OYSTER SAUCE, to serve with Fish, Boiled Poultry, &c.

492. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made with
milk, No. 380.

_Mode_.--Open the oysters carefully, and save their liquor; strain it
into a clean saucepan (a lined one is best), put in the oysters, and let
them just come to the boiling-point, when they should look plump. Take
them off the fire immediately, and put the whole into a basin. Strain
the liquor from them, mix with it sufficient milk to make 1/2 pint
altogether, and follow the directions of No. 380. When the melted butter
is ready and very smooth, put in the oysters, which should be previously
bearded, if you wish the sauce to be really nice. Set it by the side of
the fire to get thoroughly hot, _but do not allow it to boil_, or the
oysters will immediately harden. Using cream instead of milk makes this
sauce extremely delicious. When liked, add a seasoning of cayenne, or
anchovy sauce; but, as we have before stated, a plain sauce _should_ be
plain, and not be overpowered by highly-flavoured essences; therefore we
recommend that the above directions be implicitly followed, and no
seasoning added.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. Never allow fewer than 6 oysters to 1
person, unless the party is very large.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

A more economical sauce may be made by using a smaller quantity of
oysters, and not bearding them before they are added to the sauce: this
may answer the purpose, but we cannot undertake to recommend it as a
mode of making this delicious adjunct to fish, &c.


PARSLEY AND BUTTER, to serve with Calf's Head. Boiled Fowls, &c.

493. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 1/2 pint of
melted butter, No. 376.

_Mode_.--Put into a saucepan a small quantity of water, slightly salted,
and when it boils, throw in a good bunch of parsley which has been
previously washed and tied together in a bunch; let it boil for 5
minutes, drain it, mince the leaves very fine, and put the above
quantity in a tureen; pour over it 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted
butter; stir once, that the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed, and
serve.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the parsley. _Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 large fowl; allow rather more for a pair.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Sometimes, in the middle of winter, parsley-leaves are not to
be had, when the following will be found an excellent substitute:--Tie
up a little parsley-seed in a small piece of muslin, and boil it for 10
minutes in a small quantity of water; use this water to make the melted
butter with, and throw into it a little boiled spinach, minced rather
fine, which will have an appearance similar to that of parsley.

[Illustration: PARSLEY.]

    PARSLEY.--If there be nothing new under the sun, there are, at
    any rate, different uses found for the same thing; for this
    pretty aromatic herb was used in ancient times, as we learn from
    mythological narrative, to adorn the head of a hero, no less
    than Hercules; and now--was ever fall so great?--we moderns use
    it in connection with the head of--a calf. According to Homer's
    "Iliad," warriors fed their chariot-steeds on parsley; and Pliny
    acquaints us with the fact that, as a symbol of mourning, it was
    admitted to furnish the funeral tables of the Romans. Egypt,
    some say, first produced this herb; thence it was introduced, by
    some unknown voyager, into Sardinia, where the Carthaginians
    found it, and made it known to the inhabitants of Marseilles.
    (See No. 123.)

FRIED PARSLEY, for Garnishing.

494. INGREDIENTS.--Parsley, hot lard or clarified dripping.

_Mode_.--Gather some young parsley; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly in
a cloth; put it into the wire basket of which we have given an
engraving, and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or two.
Directly it is done, lift out the basket, and let it stand before the
fire, that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp; and the quicker it
is fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above
article, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it
out with a slice, dry it before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp, it
will be ready for use.

[Illustration: WIRE BASKET.]

    WIRE BASKET.--For this recipe, a wire basket, as shown in the
    annexed engraving, will be found very useful. It is very light
    and handy, and may be used for other similar purposes besides
    that described above.

PARSLEY JUICE, for Colouring various Dishes.

495. Procure some nice young parsley; wash it and dry it thoroughly in a
cloth; pound the leaves in a mortar till all the juice is extracted, and
put the juice in a teacup or small jar; place this in a saucepan of
boiling water, and warm it on the _bain marie_ principle just long
enough to take off its rawness; let it drain, and it will be ready for
colouring.


TO PRESERVE PARSLEY THROUGH THE WINTER.

496. Use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping, and wash it perfectly
free from grit and dirt; put it into boiling water which has been
slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for 2 or 3
minutes; take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front of
the fire, when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible. Store it
away in a very dry place in bottles, and when wanted for use, pour over
it a little warm water, and let it stand for about 5 minutes.

_Seasonable_.--This may be done at any time between June and October.


AN EXCELLENT PICKLE.

497. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of medium-sized onions, cucumbers,
and sauce-apples; 1-1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 3/4 teaspoonful of cayenne,
1 wineglassful of soy, 1 wineglassful of sherry; vinegar.

_Mode_.--Slice sufficient cucumbers, onions, and apples to fill a pint
stone jar, taking care to cut the slices very thin; arrange them in
alternate layers, shaking in as you proceed salt and cayenne in the
above proportion; pour in the soy and wine, and fill up with vinegar. It
will be fit for use the day it is made.

_Seasonable_ in August and September.

[This recipe was forwarded to the editress of this work by a subscriber
to the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine." Mrs. Beeton, not having
tested it, cannot vouch for its excellence; but the contributor spoke
very highly in its favour.]

    SOY.--This is a sauce frequently made use of for fish, and comes
    from Japan, where it is prepared from the seeds of a plant
    called _Dolichos Soja_. The Chinese also manufacture it; but
    that made by the Japanese is said to be the best. All sorts of
    statements have been made respecting the very general
    adulteration of this article in England, and we fear that many
    of them are too true. When genuine, it is of an agreeable
    flavour, thick, and of a clear brown colour.

PICKLED RED CABBAGE.

498. INGREDIENTS.--Red cabbages, salt and water; to each quart of
vinegar, 1/2 oz. of ginger well bruised, 1 oz. of whole black pepper,
and, when liked, a little cayenne.

_Mode_.--Take off the outside decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage, cut
it in quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it across in very thin
slices. Lay these on a dish, and strew them plentifully with salt,
covering them with another dish. Let them remain for 24 hours, turn into
a colander to drain, and, if necessary, wipe lightly with a clean soft
cloth. Put them in a jar; boil up the vinegar with spices in the above
proportion, and, when cold, pour it over the cabbage. It will be fit for
use in a week or two, and, if kept for a very long time, the cabbage is
liable get soft and to discolour. To be really nice and crisp, and of a
good red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately after it is made.
A little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar adds much to the
appearance of this pickle. Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry
place.

_Seasonable_ in July and August, but the pickle will be much more crisp
if the frost has just touched the leaves.

    RED CABBAGE.--This plant, in its growth, is similar in form to
    that of the white, but is of a bluish-purple colour, which,
    however, turns red on the application of acid, as is the case
    with all vegetable blues. It is principally from the white
    vegetable that the Germans make their _sauer kraut_; a dish held
    in such high estimation with the inhabitants of Vaderland, but
    which requires, generally speaking, with strangers, a long
    acquaintance in order to become sufficiently impressed with its
    numerous merits. The large red Dutch is the kind generally
    recommended for pickling.

PLUM-PUDDING SAUCE.

499. INGREDIENTS.--1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 oz. of very fresh butter,
1 glass of Madeira, pounded sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the pounded sugar in a basin, with part of the brandy and
the butter; let it stand by the side of the fire until it is warm and
the sugar and butter are dissolved; then add the rest of the brandy,
with the Madeira. Either pour it over the pudding, or serve in a tureen.
This is a very rich and excellent sauce.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. for this quantity.

_Sufficient_ for a pudding made for 6 persons.


QUIN'S SAUCE, an excellent Fish Sauce.

500. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of walnut pickle, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1
pint of mushroom ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen shalots, 1/4 pint
of soy, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, having previously
chopped the shalots and anchovies very small; simmer for 15 minutes,
strain, and, when cold, bottle off for use: the corks should be well
sealed to exclude the air.

_Time_.--1/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


RAVIGOTTE, a French Salad Sauce.

_Mons. Ude's Recipe_.

501. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful of
cavice, 1 teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of Reading sauce,
a piece of butter the size of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of thick
Béchamel, No. 367, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls
of cream; salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Scald the parsley, mince the leaves very fine, and add it to
all the other ingredients; after mixing the whole together thoroughly,
the sauce will be ready for use.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


READING SAUCE.

502. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 pints of walnut pickle, 1-1/2 oz. of shalots, 1
quart of spring water, 3/4 pint of Indian soy, 1/2 oz. of bruised
ginger, 1/2 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, 1/2
oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz. of dried sweet bay-leaves.

_Mode_.--Bruise the shalots in a mortar, and put them in a stone jar
with the walnut-liquor; place it before the fire, and let it boil until
reduced to 2 pints. Then, into another jar, put all the ingredients
except the bay-leaves, taking care that they are well bruised, so that
the flavour may be thoroughly extracted; put this also before the fire,
and let it boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When the contents of both
jars are sufficiently cooked, mix them together, stirring them well as
you mix them, and submit them to a slow boiling for 1/2 hour; cover
closely, and let them stand 24 hours in a cool place; then open the jar
and add the bay-leaves; let it stand a week longer closed down, when
strain through a flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. The above
quantities will make 1/2 gallon.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3 hours.

_Seasonable_.--This sauce may be made at any time.


REMOULADE, or FRENCH SALAD-DRESSING.

503. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 tablespoonful of made mustard, salt and
cayenne to taste, 3 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 1 tablespoonful of
tarragon or plain vinegar.

_Mode_.--Boil 3 eggs quite hard for about 1/4 hour, put them into cold
water, and let them remain in it for a few minutes; strip off the
shells, put the yolks in a mortar, and pound them very smoothly; add to
them, very gradually, the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar, keeping all
well stirred and rubbed down with the back of a wooden spoon. Put in the
oil drop by drop, and when this is thoroughly mixed with the other
ingredients, add the yolk of a raw egg, and stir well, when it will be
ready for use. This sauce should not be curdled; and to prevent this,
the only way is to mix a little of everything at a time, and not to
cease stirring. The quantities of oil and vinegar may be increased or
diminished according to taste, as many persons would prefer a smaller
proportion of the former ingredient.

GREEN REMOULADE is made by using tarragon vinegar instead of plain, and
colouring with a little parsley-juice, No. 495. Harvey's sauce, or Chili
vinegar, may be added at pleasure.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the eggs.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a salad made for 4 or 6 persons.

[Illustration: TARRAGON.]

    TARRAGON.--The leaves of this plant, known to naturalists as
    _Artemisia dracunculus_, are much used in France as a flavouring
    ingredient for salads. From it also is made the vinegar known as
    tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in mixing
    their mustard. It originally comes from Tartary, and does not
    seed in France.

SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING, for Geese, Ducks, and Pork.

504. INGREDIENTS.--4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of bread
crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmer
for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken out, put
in the sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness. Chop
both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and work the
whole together with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be ready
for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage-leaves should
be very finely chopped. Many cooks do not parboil the onions in the
manner just stated, but merely use them raw. The stuffing then, however,
is not nearly so mild, and, to many tastes, its strong flavour would be
very objectionable. When made for goose, a portion of the liver of the
bird, simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is frequently
added to this stuffing; and where economy is studied, the egg may be
dispensed with.

_Time_.--Rather more than 5 minutes to simmer the onions.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks.


505. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING.--Take 4 apples, peeled and
cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, and 4 leaves of lemon thyme not
broken, and boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them;
when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme; then
add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry
without sticking to the hand; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird.


SALAD DRESSING (Excellent).

I.

506. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful of
pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of milk,
2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, cayenne and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the mixed mustard into a salad-bowl with the sugar, and add
the oil drop by drop, carefully stirring and mixing all these
ingredients well together. Proceed in this manner with the milk and
vinegar, which must be added very _gradually_, or the sauce will curdle.
Put in the seasoning, when the mixture will be ready for use. If this
dressing is properly made, it will have a soft creamy appearance, and
will be found very delicious with crab, or cold fried fish (the latter
cut into dice), as well as with salads. In mixing salad dressings, the
ingredients cannot be added _too gradually_, or _stirred too much_.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3d.

_Sufficient_ for a small salad.

This recipe can be confidently recommended by the editress, to whom it
was given by an intimate friend noted for her salads.

    SCARCITY OF SALADS IN ENGLAND.--Three centuries ago, very few
    vegetables were cultivated in England, and an author writing of
    the period of Henry VIII.'s reign, tells us that neither salad,
    nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other
    comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the
    kingdom: they came from Holland and Flanders. We further learn,
    that Queen Catharine herself, with all her royalty, could not
    procure a salad of English growth for her dinner. The king was
    obliged to mend this sad state of affairs, and send to Holland
    for a gardener in order to cultivate those pot-herbs, in the
    growth of which England is now, perhaps, not behind any other
    country in Europe.

[Illustration: THE OLIVE.]

    THE OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL.--This tree assumes a high degree of
    interest from the historical circumstances with which it is
    connected. A leaf of it was brought into the ark by the dove,
    when that vessel was still floating on the waters of the great
    deep, and gave the first token that the deluge was subsiding.
    Among the Greeks, the prize of the victor in the Olympic games
    was a wreath of wild olive; and the "Mount of Olives" is
    rendered familiar to our ears by its being mentioned in the
    Scriptures as near to Jerusalem. The tree is indigenous in the
    north of Africa, Syria, and Greece; and the Romans introduced it
    to Italy. In Spain and the south of France it is now cultivated;
    and although it grows in England, its fruit does not ripen in
    the open air. Both in Greece and Portugal the fruit is eaten in
    its ripe state; but its taste is not agreeable to many palates.
    To the Italian shepherd, bread and olives, with a little wine,
    form a nourishing diet; but in England, olives are usually only
    introduced by way of dessert, to destroy the taste of the viands
    which have been previously eaten, that the flavour of the wine
    may be the better enjoyed. There are three kinds of olives
    imported to London,--the French, Spanish, and Italian: the first
    are from Provence, and are generally accounted excellent; the
    second are larger, but more bitter; and the last are from Lucca,
    and are esteemed the best. The oil extracted from olives, called
    olive oil, or salad oil, is, with the continentals, in continual
    request, more dishes being prepared with than without it, we
    should imagine. With us, it is principally used in mixing a
    salad, and when thus employed, it tends to prevent fermentation,
    and is an antidote against flatulency.

II.

507. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1/4
teaspoonful of white pepper, half that quantity of cayenne, salt to
taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, vinegar.

_Mode_.--Boil the eggs until hard, which will be in about 1/4 hour or 20
minutes; put them into cold water, take off the shells, and pound the
yolks in a mortar to a smooth paste. Then add all the other ingredients,
except the vinegar, and stir them well until the whole are thoroughly
incorporated one with the other. Pour in sufficient vinegar to make it
of the consistency of cream, taking care to add but little at a time.
The mixture will then be ready for use.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized salad.

_Note_.--The whites of the eggs, cut into rings, will serve very well as
a garnishing to the salad.


III.

508. INGREDIENTS.--1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of salad oil, 1 teaspoonful of
mixed mustard, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded
sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream.

_Mode_.--Prepare and mix the ingredients by the preceding recipe, and be
very particular that the whole is well stirred.

_Note_.--In making salads, the vegetables, &c., should never be added to
the sauce very long before they are wanted for table; the dressing,
however, may always be prepared some hours before required. Where salads
are much in request, it is a good plan to bottle off sufficient dressing
for a few days' consumption, as, thereby, much time and trouble are
saved. If kept in a cool place, it will remain good for 4 or 5 days.

    POETIC RECIPE FOR SALAD.--The Rev. Sydney Smith, the witty canon
    of St. Paul's, who thought that an enjoyment of the good things
    of this earth was compatible with aspirations for things higher,
    wrote the following excellent recipe for salad, which we should
    advise our readers not to pass by without a trial, when the hot
    weather invites to a dish of cold lamb. May they find the
    flavour equal to the rhyme.--

      "Two large potatoes, pass'd through kitchen sieve,
      Smoothness and softness to the salad give:
      Of mordent mustard add a single spoon,
      Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;
      But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault.
      To add a double quantity of salt:
      Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
      And twice with vinegar procured from 'town;
      True flavour needs it, and your poet begs,
      The pounded yellow of two well-boil'd eggs.
      Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl,
      And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
      And, lastly, in the flavour'd compound toss
      A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.
      Oh! great and glorious, and herbaceous treat,
      'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat.
      Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul,
      And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl."

SAUCE ALLEMANDE, or GERMAN SAUCE.

509. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of sauce tournée (No. 517), the yolks of 2
eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the sauce into a stewpan, heat it, and stir to it the
beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which have been previously strained. Let it just
simmer, but not boil, or the eggs will curdle; and after they are added
to the sauce, it must be stirred without ceasing. This sauce is a
general favourite, and is used for many made dishes.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer.

_Average cost_, 6d.


SAUCE ARISTOCRATIQUE (a Store Sauce).

510. INGREDIENTS.--Green walnuts. To every pint of juice, 1 lb. of
anchovies, 1 drachm of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm of Jamaica
ginger bruised, 8 shalots. To every pint of the boiled liquor, 1/2 pint
of vinegar, 1/4 pint of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy.

_Mode_.--Pound the walnuts in a mortar, squeeze out the juice through a
strainer, and let it stand to settle. Pour off the clear juice, and to
every pint of it, add anchovies, spices, and cloves in the above
proportion. Boil all these together till the anchovies are dissolved,
then strain the juice again, put in the shalots (8 to every pint), and
boil again. To every pint of the boiled liquor add vinegar, wine, and
soy, in the above quantities, and bottle off for use. Cork well, and
seal the corks.

_Seasonable_.--Make this sauce from the beginning to the middle of July,
when walnuts are in perfection for sauces and pickling.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. for a quart.

    MANUFACTURE OF SAUCES.--In France, during the reign of Louis
    XII., at the latter end of the 14th century, there was formed a
    company of sauce-manufacturers, who obtained, in those days of
    monopolies, the exclusive privilege of making sauces. The
    statutes drawn up by this company inform us that the famous
    sauce à la cameline, sold by them, was to be composed or "good
    cinnamon, good ginger, good cloves, good grains of paradise,
    good bread, and good vinegar." The sauce Tence, was to be made
    of "good sound almonds, good ginger, good wine, and good
    verjuice." May we respectfully express a hope--not that we
    desire to doubt it in the least--that the English
    sauce-manufacturers of the 19th century are equally considerate
    and careful in choosing their ingredients for their various
    well-known preparations.

SAUCE A L'AURORE, for Trout, Soles, &c.

511. INGREDIENTS.--The spawn of 1 lobster, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of
Béchamel (No. 367), the juice of 1/2 lemon, a high seasoning of salt and
cayenne.

_Mode_.--Take the spawn and pound it in a mortar with the butter, until
quite smooth, and work it through a hair sieve. Put the Béchamel into a
stewpan, add the pounded spawn, the lemon-juice, which must be strained,
and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and salt; let it just simmer, but
do not allow it to boil, or the beautiful red colour of the sauce will
be spoiled. A small spoonful of anchovy essence may be added at
pleasure.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for a pair of large soles.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SAUCE A LA MATELOTE, for Fish.

512. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of Espagnole (No. 411), 3 onions, 2
tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine, a bunch of
sweet herbs, 1/2 bay-leaf, salt and pepper to taste, 1 clove, 2 berries
of allspice, a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled,
lemon-juice, and anchovy sauce.

_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a nice brown colour, and put them
into a stewpan with the Espagnole, ketchup, wine, and a little liquor in
which the fish has been boiled. Add the seasoning, herbs, and spices,
and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the whole time; strain
it through a fine hair sieve, put in the lemon-juice and anchovy sauce,
and pour it over the fish. This sauce may be very much enriched by
adding a few small quenelles, or forcemeat balls made of fish, and also
glazed onions or mushrooms. These, however, should not be added to the
matelote till it is dished.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--This sauce originally took its name as being similar to that
which the French sailor (_matelot_) employed as a relish to the fish he
caught and ate. In some cases, cider and perry were substituted for the
wine. The Norman _matelotes_ were very celebrated.

[Illustration: THE BAY.]

    THE BAY.--We have already described (see No. 180) the difference
    between the cherry-laurel (_Prunus Laurus cerasus_) and the
    classic laurel (_Laurus nobilis_), the former only being used
    for culinary purposes. The latter beautiful evergreen was
    consecrated by the ancients to priests and heroes, and used in
    their sacrifices. "A crown of bay" was the earnestly-desired
    reward for great enterprises, and for the display of uncommon
    genius in oratory or writing. It was more particularly sacred to
    Apollo, because, according to the fable, the nymph Daphne was
    changed into a laurel-tree. The ancients believed, too, that the
    laurel had the power of communicating the gift of prophecy, as
    well as poetic genius; and, when they wished to procure pleasant
    dreams, would place a sprig under the pillow of their bed. It
    was the symbol, too, of victory, and it was thought that the
    laurel could never be struck by lightning. From this word comes
    that of "laureate;" Alfred Tennyson being the present poet
    laureate, crowned with laurel as the first of living bards.

SAUCE PIQUANTE, for Cutlets, Roast Meat, &c.

513. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shalots, 1 small
bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 slices of
lean ham, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, 4
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/2 pint of stock (No. 104 or 105), 1 small
lump of sugar, 1/4 saltspoonful of cayenne, salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Put into a stewpan the butter, with the carrot and shalots,
both of which must be cut into small slices; add the herbs, bay-leaf,
spices, and ham (which must be minced rather finely), and let these
ingredients simmer over a slow fire, until the bottom of the stewpan is
covered with a brown glaze. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon, and put
in the remaining ingredients. Simmer very gently for 1/4 hour, skim off
every particle of fat, strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve very
hot. Care must be taken that this sauce be not made too acid, although
it should possess a sharpness indicated by its name. Of course the above
quantity of vinegar may be increased or diminished at pleasure,
according to taste.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for a medium-sized dish of cutlets.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


A GOOD SAUCE FOR VARIOUS BOILED PUDDINGS.

514. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar, a
wineglassful of brandy or rum.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, until no lumps remain; add the
pounded sugar, and brandy or rum; stir once or twice until the whole is
thoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured round the
pudding or served in a tureen, according to the taste or fancy of the
cook or mistress.

_Average cost_, 8d. for this quantity.

_Sufficient_ for a pudding.


SAUCE ROBERT, for Steaks, &c.

515. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 4
tablespoonfuls of gravy, or stock No. 105, salt and pepper to taste, 1
teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, the juice of 1/2
lemon.

_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and, when
browning, throw in the onions, which must be cut into small slices. Fry
them brown, but do not burn them; add the flour, shake the onions in it,
and give the whole another fry. Put in the gravy and seasoning, and boil
it gently for 10 minutes; skim off the fat, add the mustard, vinegar,
and lemon-juice; give it one boil, and pour round the steaks, or
whatever dish the sauce has been prepared for.

_Time_.---Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for about 2 lbs. of steak.

_Note_.--This sauce will be found an excellent accompaniment to roast
goose, pork, mutton cutlets, and various other dishes.


A GOOD SAUCE FOR STEAKS.

516. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1
oz. of salt, 1/2 oz. grated horseradish, 1/2 oz. of pickled shalots, 1
pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle.

_Mode_.--Pound all the ingredients finely in a mortar, and put them into
the ketchup or walnut-liquor. Let them stand for a fortnight, when
strain off the liquor and bottle for use. Either pour a little of the
sauce over the steaks or mix it in the gravy.

_Seasonable_.--This can be made at any time.

_Note_.--In using a jar of pickled walnuts, there is frequently left a
large quantity of liquor; this should be converted into a sauce like the
above, and will be found a very useful relish.

    THE GROWTH OF THE PEPPER-PLANT.--Our readers will see at Nos.
    369 and 399, a description, with engravings, of the qualities of
    black and long pepper, and an account of where these spices are
    found. We will here say something of the manner of the growth of
    the pepper-plant. Like the vine, it requires support, and it is
    usual to plant a thorny tree by its side, to which it may cling.
    In Malabar, the chief pepper district of India, the jacca-tree
    (_Artocarpus integrifolia_) is made thus to yield its
    assistance, the same soil being adapted to the growth of both
    plants. The stem of the pepper-plant entwines round its support
    to a considerable height; the flexile branches then droop
    downwards, bearing at their extremities, as well as at other
    parts, spikes of green flowers, which are followed by the
    pungent berries. These hang in large bunches, resembling in
    shape those of grapes; but the fruit grows distinct, each on a
    little stalk, like currants. Each berry contains a single seed,
    of a globular form and brownish colour, but which changes to a
    nearly black when dried; and this is the pepper of commerce. The
    leaves are not unlike those of the ivy, but are larger and of
    rather lighter colour; they partake strongly of the peculiar
    smell and pungent taste of the berry.

SAUCE TOURNEE.

517. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of white stock (No. 107), thickening of flour
and butter, or white roux (No. 526), a faggot of savoury herbs,
including parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green onions.

_Mode_.--Put the stock into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, and
mushrooms, and let it simmer very gently for about 1/2 hour; stir in
sufficient thickening to make it of a proper consistency; let it boil
for a few minutes, then skim off all the fat, strain and serve. This
sauce, with the addition of a little cream, is now frequently called
velouté.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6d.

_Note_.--If poultry trimmings are at hand, the stock should be made of
these; and the above sauce should not be made too thick, as it does not
then admit of the fat being nicely removed.


SWEET SAUCE, for Venison.

518. INGREDIENTS.--A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port
wine.

_Mode_.--Put the above ingredients into a stewpan, set them over the
fire, and, when melted, pour in a tureen and serve. It should not be
allowed to boil.

_Time_.--5 minutes to melt the jelly.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s.


SAUCE FOR WILDFOWL.

519. INGREDIENTS.--1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of Leamington
sauce (No. 459), 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 1 slice of lemon-peel, 1 large shalot cut in slices, 1
blade of mace, cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set it over the fire,
and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; then strain and serve the sauce
in a tureen.

_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 8d.


SAUSAGE-MEAT STUFFING, for Turkey.

520. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of lean pork, 6 oz. of fat pork, both weighed
after being chopped (beef suet may be substituted for the latter), 2 oz.
of bread crumbs, 1 small tablespoonful of minced sage, 1 blade of
pounded mace, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Chop the meat and fat very finely, mix with them the other
ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated.
Moisten with the egg, and the stuffing will be ready for use. Equal
quantities of this stuffing and forcemeat, No. 417, will be found to
answer very well, as the herbs, lemon-peel, &c. in the latter, impart a
very delicious flavour to the sausage-meat. As preparations, however,
like stuffings and forcemeats, are matters to be decided by individual
tastes, they must be left, to a great extent, to the discrimination of
the cook, who should study her employer's taste in this, as in every
other respect.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for a small turkey.


SAVOURY JELLY FOR MEAT PIES.

521. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 calf's-foot, 3 lbs. of
knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings (if for game pies, any game
trimmings), 2 onions stuck with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch of
savoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves; when liked, 2 blades of mace and a little
spice; 2 slices of lean ham, rather more than 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all the
ingredients except the water; set it over a slow fire to draw down, and,
when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, pour in the water. Let it
boil up, then carefully take away all scum from the top. Cover the
stewpan closely, and let the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: if
rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear. When done, strain it
through a fine sieve or flannel bag; and when cold, the jelly should be
quite transparent. If this is not the case, clarify it with the whites
of eggs, as described in recipe No. 109.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5s.


SHRIMP SAUCE, for Various Kinds of Fish.

522. INGREDIENTS.--1/3 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 1/4 pint of
picked shrimps, cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Make the melted butter very smoothly by recipe No. 376, shell
the shrimps (sufficient to make 1/4 pint when picked), and put them into
the butter; season with cayenne, and let the sauce just simmer, but do
not allow it to boil. When liked, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may be
added.

_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.


SPINACH GREEN FOR COLOURING VARIOUS DISHES.

523. INGREDIENTS.--2 handfuls of spinach.

_Mode_.--Pick and wash the spinach free from dirt, and pound the leaves
in a mortar to extract the juice; then press it through a hair sieve,
and put the juice into a small stewpan or jar. Place this in a bain
marie, or saucepan of boiling water, and let it set. Watch it closely,
as it should not boil; and, as soon as it is done, lay it in a sieve, so
that all the water may drain from it, and the green will then be ready
for colouring. If made according to this recipe, the spinach-green will
be found far superior to that boiled in the ordinary way.


HOT SPICE, a Delicious Adjunct to Chops, Steaks, Gravies, &c.

524. INGREDIENTS.--3 drachms each of ginger, black pepper, and cinnamon,
7 cloves, 1/2 oz. mace, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. grated nutmeg, 1-1/2
oz. white pepper.

_Mode_.--Pound the ingredients, and mix them thoroughly together, taking
care that everything is well blended. Put the spice in a very dry glass
bottle for use. The quantity of cayenne may be increased, should the
above not be enough to suit the palate.

[Illustration: CINNAMON.]

    CINNAMON.--The cinnamon-tree (_Laurus Cinnamomum_) is a valuable
    and beautiful species of the laurel family, and grows to the
    height of 20 or 30 feet. The trunk is short and straight, with
    wide-spreading branches, and it has a smooth ash-like bark. The
    leaves are upon short stalks, and are of an oval shape, and 3 to
    5 inches long. The flowers are in panicles, with six small
    petals, and the fruit is about the size of an olive, soft,
    insipid, and of a deep blue. This incloses a nut, the kernel of
    which germinates soon after it falls. The wood of the tree is
    white and not very solid, and its root is thick and branching,
    exuding a great quantity of camphor. The inner bark of the tree
    forms the cinnamon of commerce. Ceylon was thought to be its
    native island; but it has been found in Malabar, Cochin-China,
    Sumatra, and the Eastern Islands; also in the Brazils, the
    Mauritius, Jamaica, and other tropical localities.

BROWN ROUX, a French Thickening for Gravies and Sauces.

525. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of butter, 9 oz. of flour.

_Mode_.--Melt the butter in a stewpan over a slow fire, and dredge in,
very gradually, the flour; stir it till of a light-brown colour--to
obtain this do it very slowly, otherwise the flour will burn and impart
a bitter taste to the sauce it is mixed with. Pour it in a jar, and keep
it for use: it will remain good some time.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d.


WHITE ROUX, for thickening White Sauces.

526. Allow the same proportions of butter and flour as in the preceding
recipe, and proceed in the same manner as for brown roux, but do not
keep it on the fire too long, and take care not to let it colour. This
is used for thickening white sauce. Pour it into a jar to use when
wanted.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_,--A dessertspoonful will thicken a pint of gravy.

_Note_.--Besides the above, sauces may be thickened with potato flour,
ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, &c.: the latter will be found far
preferable to the ordinary flour for white sauces. A slice of bread,
toasted and added to gravies, answers the two purposes of thickening and
colouring them.


SPANISH ONIONS--PICKLED.

527. INGREDIENTS.--Onions, vinegar; salt and cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the onions in thin slices; put a layer of them in the
bottom of a jar; sprinkle with salt and cayenne; then add another layer
of onions, and season as before. Proceeding in this manner till the jar
is full, pour in sufficient vinegar to cover the whole, and the pickle
will be fit for use in a month.

_Seasonable_.--May be had in England from September to February.


STORE SAUCE, or CHEROKEE.

528. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 5 cloves of garlic, 2
tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, 1 pint of
vinegar.

_Mode_.--Boil all the ingredients _gently_ for about 1/2 hour; strain
the liquor, and bottle off for use.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_.--This sauce can be made at any time.


TOMATO SAUCE--HOT, to serve with Cutlets, Roast Meats, &c.

529. INGREDIENTS.--6 tomatoes, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 1 blade of mace, salt
and cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of gravy, No. 436, or stock No. 104.

_Mode_.--Cut the tomatoes in two, and squeeze the juice and seeds out;
put them in a stewpan with all the ingredients, and let them simmer
_gently_ until the tomatoes are tender enough to pulp; rub the whole
through a sieve, boil it for a few minutes, and serve. The shalots and
spices may be omitted when their flavour is objected to.

_Time_.--1 hour, or rather more, to simmer the tomatoes.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s.

_In full season_ in September and October.

[Illustration: THE TOMATO.]

    TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.--The plant which bears this fruit is a
    native of South America, and takes its name from a Portuguese
    word. The tomato fruit is about the size of a small potato, and
    is chiefly used in soups, sauces, and gravies. It is sometimes
    served to table roasted or boiled, and when green, makes a good
    ketchup or pickle. In its unripe state, it is esteemed as
    excellent sauce for roast goose or pork, and when quite ripe, a
    good store sauce may be prepared from it.

TOMATO SAUCE FOR KEEPING (Excellent).

I.

530. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of tomato-pulp allow 1 pint of cayenne
vinegar (No. 386), 3/4 oz. of shalots, 3/4 oz. of garlic, peeled and cut
in slices; salt to taste. To every six quarts of liquor, 1 pint of soy,
1 pint of anchovy sauce.

_Mode_.--Gather the tomatoes quite ripe; bake them in a slow oven till
tender; rub them through a sieve, and to every quart of pulp add cayenne
vinegar, shalots, garlic, and salt, in the above proportion; boil the
whole together till the garlic and shalots are quite soft; then rub it
through a sieve, put it again into a saucepan, and, to every six quarts
of the liquor, add 1 pint of soy and the same quantity of anchovy sauce,
and boil altogether for about 20 minutes; bottle off for use, and
carefully seal or rosin the corks. This will keep good for 2 or 3 years,
but will be fit for use in a week. A useful and less expensive sauce may
be made by omitting the anchovy and soy.

_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour.

_Seasonable_.--Make this from the middle of September to the end of
October.


II.

531. INGREDIENTS.--1 dozen tomatoes, 2 teaspoonfuls of the best powdered
ginger, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 head of garlic chopped fine, 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar (a small
quantity of cayenne may be substituted for this).

_Mode_.--Choose ripe tomatoes, put them into a stone jar, and stand them
in a cool oven until quite tender; when cold, take the skins and stalks
from them, mix the pulp with the liquor which is in the jar, but do not
strain it; add all the other ingredients, mix well together, and put it
into well-sealed bottles. Stored away in a cool dry place, it will keep
good for years. It is ready for use as soon as made, but the flavour is
better after a week or two. Should it not appear to keep, turn it out,
and boil it up with a little additional ginger and cayenne. For
immediate use, the skins should be put into a wide-mouthed bottle with a
little of the different ingredients, and they will be found very nice
for hashes or stews.

_Time_.--4 or 5 hours in a cool oven.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of September to the end of October.


III.

532. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen tomatoes; to every pound of tomato-pulp allow
1 pint of Chili vinegar, 1 oz. of garlic, 1 oz. of shalot, 2 oz. of
salt, 1 large green capsicum, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 pickled
gherkins, 6 pickled onions, 1 pint of common vinegar, and the juice of 6
lemons.

_Mode_.--Choose the tomatoes when quite ripe and red; put them in a jar
with a cover to it, and bake them till tender. The better way is to put
them in the oven overnight, when it will not be too hot, and examine
them in the morning to see if they are tender. Do not allow them to
remain in the oven long enough to break them; but they should be
sufficiently soft to skin nicely and rub through the sieve. Measure the
pulp, and to each pound of pulp, add the above proportion of vinegar and
other ingredients, taking care to chop very fine the garlic, shalot,
capsicum, onion, and gherkins. Boil the whole together till everything
is tender; then again rub it through a sieve, and add the lemon-juice.
Now boil the whole again till it becomes as thick as cream, and keep
continually stirring; bottle it when quite cold, cork well, and seal the
corks. If the flavour of garlic and shalot is very much disliked,
diminish the quantities.

_Time_.--Bake the tomatoes in a cool oven all night.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of September to the end of October.

_Note_.--A quantity of liquor will flow from the tomatoes, which must be
put through the sieve with the rest. Keep it well stirred while on the
fire, and use a wooden spoon.


UNIVERSAL PICKLE.

533. INGREDIENTS.--To 6 quarts of vinegar allow 1 lb. of salt, 1/4 lb.
of ginger, 1 oz. of mace, 1/2 lb. of shalots, 1 tablespoonful of
cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1-1/2 oz. of turmeric.

_Mode_.--Boil all the ingredients together for about 20 minutes; when
cold, put them into a jar with whatever vegetables you choose, such as
radish-pods, French beans, cauliflowers, gherkins, &c. &c., as these
come into season; put them in fresh as you gather them, having
previously wiped them perfectly free from moisture and grit. This pickle
will be fit for use in about 8 or 9 months.

_Time_.--20 minutes.

_Seasonable_.--Make the pickle in May or June, to be ready for the
various vegetables.

_Note_.--As this pickle takes 2 or 3 months to make,--that is to say,
nearly that time will elapse before all the different vegetables are
added,--care must be taken to keep the jar which contains the pickle
well covered, either with a closely-fitting lid, or a piece of bladder
securely tied over, so as perfectly to exclude the air.


PICKLED WALNUTS (Very Good).

534. INGREDIENTS.--100 walnuts, salt and water. To each quart of vinegar
allow 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of bruised
ginger.

_Mode_.--Procure the walnuts while young; be careful they are not woody,
and prick them well with a fork; prepare a strong brine of salt and
water (4 lbs. of salt to each gallon of water), into which put the
walnuts, letting them remain 9 days, and changing the brine every third
day; drain them off, put them on a dish, place it in the sun until they
become perfectly black, which will be in 2 or 3 days; have ready dry
jars, into which place the walnuts, and do not quite fill the jars. Boil
sufficient vinegar to cover them, for 10 minutes, with spices in the
above proportion, and pour it hot over the walnuts, which must be quite
covered with the pickle; tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place.
They will be fit for use in a month, and will keep good 2 or 3 years.

_Time_.--10 minutes.

_Seasonable_.--Make this from the beginning to the middle of July,
before the walnuts harden.

_Note_.--When liked, a few shalots may be added to the vinegar, and
boiled with it.


WALNUT KETCHUP.

I.

535. INGREDIENTS.--100 walnuts, 1 handful of salt, 1 quart of vinegar,
1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of nutmeg, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of
ginger, 1/4 oz. of whole black pepper, a small piece of horseradish, 20
shalots, 1/4 lb. of anchovies, 1 pint of port wine.

_Mode_.--Procure the walnuts at the time you can run a pin through them,
slightly bruise, and put them into a jar with the salt and vinegar, let
them stand 8 days, stirring every day; then drain the liquor from them,
and boil it, with the above ingredients, for about 1/2 hour. It may be
strained or not, as preferred, and, if required, a little more vinegar
or wine can be added, according to taste. When bottled well, seal the
corks.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_.--Make this from the beginning to the middle of July, when
walnuts are in perfection for pickling purposes.


II.

536. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 sieve of walnut-shells, 2 quarts of water, salt,
1/2 lb. of shalots, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 oz. of mace, 1 oz. of whole
pepper, 1 oz. of garlic.

_Mode_.--Put the walnut-shells into a pan, with the water, and a large
quantity of salt; let them stand for 10 days, then break the shells up
in the water, and let it drain through a sieve, putting a heavy weight
on the top to express the juice; place it on the fire, and remove all
scum that may arise. Now boil the liquor with the shalots, cloves, mace,
pepper, and garlic, and let all simmer till the shalots sink; then put
the liquor into a pan, and, when cold, bottle, and cork closely. It
should stand 6 months before using: should it ferment during that time,
it must be again boiled and skimmed.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ in September, when the walnut-shells are obtainable.

[Illustration: THE WALNUT.]

    THE WALNUT.--This nut is a native of Persia, and was introduced
    into England from France. As a pickle, it is much used in the
    green state; and grated walnuts in Spain are much employed, both
    in tarts and other dishes. On the continent it is occasionally
    employed as a substitute for olive oil in cooking; but it is
    apt, under such circumstances, to become rancid. The matter
    which remains after the oil is extracted is considered highly
    nutritious for poultry. It is called _mare_, and in Switzerland
    is eaten under the name of _pain amer_ by the poor. The oil is
    frequently manufactured into a kind of soap, and the leaves and
    green husks yield an extract, which, as a brown dye, is used to
    stain hair, wool, and wood.

WHITE SAUCE (Good).

537. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock (No. 107), 1/2 pint of cream,
1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Have ready a delicately-clean saucepan, into which put the
stock, which should be well flavoured with vegetables, and rather
savoury; mix the flour smoothly with the cream, add it to the stock,
season with a little salt, and boil all these ingredients very gently
for about 10 minutes, keeping them well stirred the whole time, as this
sauce is very liable to burn.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


WHITE SAUCE, made without Meat.

538. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 2 small onions, 1 carrot, 1/2 a
small teacupful of flour, 1 pint of new milk, salt and cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut up the onions and carrot very small, and put them into a
stewpan with the butter; simmer them till the butter is nearly dried up;
then stir in the flour, and add the milk; boil the whole gently until it
thickens, strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and it will be ready
to serve.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 5d.

_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


WHITE SAUCE (a very Simple and Inexpensive Method).

539. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of rice, 1 strip of
lemon-peel, 1 small blade of pounded mace, salt and cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the lemon-peel and rice until the latter is
perfectly tender, then take out the lemon-peel and pound the milk and
rice together; put it back into the stewpan to warm, add the mace and
seasoning, give it one boil, and serve. This sauce should be of the
consistency of thick cream.

_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour to boil the rice.

_Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls.

_Seasonable_ at any time.




[Illustration: THE LEAMINGTON STOVE, OR KITCHENER.]

VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.


CHAPTER XI.


GENERAL REMARKS.

540. In Our "INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY" (_see_ No. 76) we have described
the gradual progress of mankind in the art of cookery, the probability
being, that the human race, for a long period, lived wholly on fruits.
Man's means of attacking animals, even if he had the desire of
slaughtering them, were very limited, until he acquired the use of arms.
He, however, made weapons for himself, and, impelled by a carnivorous
instinct, made prey of the animals that surrounded him. It is natural
that man should seek to feed on flesh; he has too small a stomach to be
supported alone by fruit, which has not sufficient nourishment to
renovate him. It is possible he might subsist on vegetables; but their
preparation needs the knowledge of art, only to be obtained after the
lapse of many centuries. Man's first weapons were the branches of trees,
which were succeeded by bows and arrows, and it is worthy of remark,
that these latter weapons have been found with the natives of all
climates and latitudes. It is singular how this idea presented itself to
individuals so differently placed.

541. BRILLAT SAVARIN says, that raw flesh has but one
inconvenience,--from its viscousness it attaches itself to the teeth. He
goes on to say, that it is not, however, disagreeable; but, when
seasoned with salt, that it is easily digested. He tells a story of a
Croat captain, whom he invited to dinner in 1815, during the occupation
of Paris by the allied troops. This officer was amazed at his host's
preparations, and said, "When we are campaigning, and get hungry, we
knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it with
salt, which we always have in the sabretasche, put it under the saddle,
gallop over it for half a mile, and then dine like princes." Again, of
the huntsmen of Dauphiny it is said, that when they are out shooting in
September, they take with them both pepper and salt. If they kill a very
fat bird, they pluck and season it, and, after carrying it some time in
their caps, eat it. This, they declare, is the best way of serving it
up.

542. SUBSEQUENTLY TO THE CROAT MODE, which, doubtless, was in fashion in
the earlier ages of the world, fire was discovered. This was an
accident; for fire is not, although we are accustomed to call it so, an
element, or spontaneous. Many savage nations have been found utterly
ignorant of it, and many races had no other way of dressing their food
than by exposing it to the rays of the sun.

543. THE INHABITANTS OF THE MARIAN ISLANDS, which were discovered in
1521, had no idea of fire. Never was astonishment greater than theirs
when they first saw it, on the descent of Magellan, the navigator, on
one of their isles. At first they thought it a kind of animal, that
fixed itself to and fed upon wood. Some of them, who approached too
near, being burnt, the rest were terrified, and durst only look upon it
at a distance. They were afraid, they said, of being bit, or lest that
dreadful animal should wound with his violent respiration and dreadful
breath; for these were the first notions they formed of the heat and
flame. Such, too, probably, were the notions the Greeks originally
formed of them.

544. FIRE HAVING BEEN DISCOVERED, mankind endeavoured to make use of it
for drying, and afterwards for cooking their meat; but they were a
considerable time before they hit upon proper and commodious methods of
employing it in the preparation of their food.

545. MEAT, THEN, PLACED ON BURNING FUEL was found better than when raw:
it had more firmness, was eaten with less difficulty, and the ozmazome
being condensed by the carbonization, gave it a pleasing perfume and
flavour. Still, however, the meat cooked on the coal would become
somewhat befouled, certain portions of the fuel adhering to it. This
disadvantage was remedied by passing spits through it, and placing it at
a suitable height above the burning fuel. Thus grilling was invented;
and it is well known that, simple as is this mode of cookery, yet all
meat cooked in this way is richly and pleasantly flavoured. In Homer's
time, the, art of cookery had not advanced much beyond this; for we read
in the "Iliad," how the great Achilles and his friend Patroclus regaled
the three Grecian leaders on bread, wine, and broiled meat. It is
noticeable, too, that Homer does not speak of boiled meat anywhere in
his poems. Later, however, the Jews, coming out of their captivity in
Egypt, had made much greater progress. They undoubtedly possessed
kettles; and in one of these, Esau's mess of pottage, for which he sold
his birthright, must have been prepared.

546. HAVING THUS BRIEFLY TRACED A HISTORY OF GASTRONOMICAL PROGRESSES,
we will now proceed to describe the various methods of cooking meat, and
make a few observations on the chemical changes which occur in each of
the operations.

547. IN THIS COUNTRY, plain boiling, roasting, and baking are the usual
methods of cooking animal food. To explain the philosophy of these
simple culinary operations, we must advert to the effects that are
produced by heat on the principal constituents of flesh. When
finely-chopped mutton or beef is steeped for some time in a small
quantity of clean water, and then subjected to slight pressure, the
juice of the meat is extracted, and there is left a white tasteless
residue, consisting chiefly of muscular fibres. When this residue is
heated to between 158° and 177° Fahrenheit, the fibres shrink together,
and become hard and horny. The influence of an elevated temperature on
the soluble extract of flesh is not less remarkable. When the watery
infusion, which contains all the savoury constituents of the meat, is
gradually heated, it soon becomes turbid; and, when the temperature
reaches 133°, flakes of whitish matter separate. These flakes are
_albumen_, a substance precisely similar, in all its properties, to the
white of egg (see No. 101). When the temperature of the watery extract
is raised to 158°, the colouring matter of the blood coagulates, and the
liquid, which was originally tinged red by this substance, is left
perfectly clear, and almost colourless. When evaporated, even at a
gentle heat, this residual liquid gradually becomes brown, and acquires
the flavour of roast meat.

548. THESE INTERESTING FACTS, discovered in the laboratory, throw a
flood of light upon the mysteries of the kitchen. The fibres of meat are
surrounded by a liquid which contains albumen in its soluble state, just
as it exists in the unboiled egg. During the operation of boiling or
roasting, this substance coagulates, and thereby prevents the
contraction and hardening of the fibres. The tenderness of well-cooked
meat is consequently proportioned to the amount of albumen deposited in
its substance. Meat is underdone when it has been heated throughout only
to the temperature of coagulating albumen: it is thoroughly done when it
has been heated through its whole mass to the temperature at which the
colouring matter of the blood coagulates: it is overdone when the heat
has been continued long enough to harden the fibres.

549. THE JUICE OF FLESH IS WATER, holding in solution many substances
besides albumen, which are of the highest possible value as articles of
food. In preparing meat for the table, great care should be taken to
prevent the escape of this precious juice, as the succulence and
sapidity of the meat depend on its retention. The meat to be cooked
should be exposed at first to a quick heat, which immediately coagulates
the albumen on and near the surface. A kind of shell is thus formed,
which effectually retains the whole of the juice within the meat.

550. DURING THE OPERATIONS OF BOILING, BOASTING, AND BAKING, fresh beef
and mutton, when moderately fat, lose, according to Johnston, on an
average about--

                      In boiling.  In baking.    In roasting.

  4 lbs. of beef lose    1 lb.     1 lb. 3 oz.   1 lb. 5 oz.

  4 lbs. of mutton lose  14 oz.    1 lb. 4 oz.   1 lb. 6 oz.


BAKING.

[Illustration: BAKING DISH.]

551. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ROASTING MEAT AND BAKING IT, may be
generally described as consisting in the fact, that, in baking it, the
fumes caused by the operation are not carried off in the same way as
occurs in roasting. Much, however, of this disadvantage is obviated by
the improved construction of modern ovens, and of especially those in
connection with the Leamington kitchener, of which we give an engraving
here, and a full description of which will be seen at paragraph No. 65,
with the prices at which they can be purchased of Messrs. R. and J.
Slack, of the Strand. With meat baked in the generality of ovens,
however, which do not possess ventilators on the principle of this
kitchener, there is undoubtedly a peculiar taste, which does not at all
equal the flavour developed by roasting meat. The chemistry of baking
may be said to be the same as that described in roasting.

552. SHOULD THE OVEN BE VERY BRISK, it will be found necessary to cover
the joint with a piece of white paper, to prevent the meat from being
scorched and blackened outside, before the heat can penetrate into the
inside. This paper should be removed half an hour before the time of
serving dinner, so that the joint may take a good colour.

553. BY MEANS OF A JAR, many dishes, which will be enumerated under
their special heads, may be economically prepared in the oven. The
principal of these are soup, gravies, jugged hare, beef tea; and this
mode of cooking may be advantageously adopted with a ham, which has
previously been covered with a common crust of flour and water.

554. ALL DISHES PREPARED FOR BAKING should be more highly seasoned than
when intended to be roasted. There are some dishes which, it may be
said, are at least equally well cooked in the oven as by the roaster;
thus, a shoulder of mutton and baked potatoes, a fillet or breast of
veal, a sucking pig, a hare, well basted, will be received by
connoisseurs as well, when baked, as if they had been roasted. Indeed,
the baker's oven, or the family oven, may often, as has been said, be
substituted for the cook and the spit with greater economy and
convenience.

555. A BAKING-DISH, of which we give an engraving, should not be less
than 6 or 7 inches deep; so that the meat, which of course cannot be
basted, can stew in its own juices. In the recipe for each dish, full
explanations concerning any special points in relation to it will be
given.


BOILING.

556. BOILING, or the preparation of meat by hot water, though one of the
easiest processes in cookery, requires skilful management. Boiled meat
should be tender, savoury, and full of its own juice, or natural gravy;
but, through the carelessness and ignorance of cooks, it is too often
sent to table hard, tasteless, and innutritious. To insure a successful
result in boiling flesh, the heat of the fire must be judiciously
regulated, the proper quantity of water must be kept up in the pot, and
the scum which rises to the surface must be carefully removed.

557. MANY WRITERS ON COOKERY assert that the meat to be boiled should be
put into cold water, and that the pot should be heated gradually; but
Liebig, the highest authority on all matters connected with the
chemistry of food, has shown that meat so treated loses some of its most
nutritious constituents. "If the flesh," says the great chemist, "be
introduced into the boiler when the water is in a state of brisk
ebullition, and if the boiling be kept up for a few minutes, and the pot
then placed in a warm place, so that the temperature of the water is
kept at 158° to 165°, we have the united conditions for giving to the
flesh the qualities which best fit it for being eaten." When a piece of
meat is plunged into boiling water, the albumen which is near the
surface immediately coagulates, forming an envelope, which prevents the
escape of the internal juice, and most effectually excludes the water,
which, by mixing with this juice, would render the meat insipid. Meat
treated thus is juicy and well-flavoured, when cooked, as it retains
most of its savoury constituents. On the other hand, if the piece of
meat be set on the fire with cold water, and this slowly heated to
boiling, the flesh undergoes a loss of soluble and nutritious
substances, while, as a matter of course, the soup becomes richer in
these matters. The albumen is gradually dissolved from the surface to
the centre; the fibre loses, more or less, its quality of shortness or
tenderness, and becomes hard and tough: the thinner the piece of meat
is, the greater is its loss of savoury constituents. In order to obtain
well-flavoured and eatable meat, we must relinquish the idea of making
good soup from it, as that mode of boiling which yields the best soup
gives the driest, toughest, and most vapid meat. Slow boiling whitens
the meat; and, we suspect, that it is on this account that it is in such
favour with the cooks. The wholesomeness of food is, however, a matter
of much greater moment than the appearance it presents on the table. It
should be borne in mind, that the whiteness of meat that has been boiled
slowly, is produced by the loss of some important alimentary properties.

558. THE OBJECTIONS WE HAVE RAISED to the practice of putting meat on
the fire in cold water, apply with equal force to the practice of
soaking meat before cooking it, which is so strongly recommended by some
cooks. Fresh meat ought never to be soaked, as all its most nutritive
constituents are soluble in water. Soaking, however, is an operation
that cannot be entirely dispensed with in the preparation of animal
food. Salted and dried meats require to be soaked for some time in water
before they are cooked.

559. FOR BOILING MEAT, the softer the water is, the better. When spring
water is boiled, the chalk which gives to it the quality of hardness, is
precipitated. This chalk stains the meat, and communicates to it an
unpleasant earthy taste. When nothing but hard water can be procured, it
should be softened by boiling it for an hour or two before it is used
for culinary purposes.

560. THE FIRE MUST BE WATCHED with great attention during the operation
of boiling, so that its heat may be properly regulated. As a rule, the
pot should be kept in a simmering state; a result which cannot be
attained without vigilance.

561. THE TEMPERATURE AT WHICH WATER BOILS, under usual circumstances, is
212° Fahr. Water does not become hotter after it has begun to boil,
however long or with whatever violence the boiling is continued. This
fact is of great importance in cookery, and attention to it will save
much fuel. Water made to boil in a gentle way by the application of a
moderate heat is just as hot as when it is made to boil on a strong fire
with the greatest possible violence. When once water has been brought to
the boiling point, the fire may be considerably reduced, as a very
gentle heat will suffice to keep the water at its highest temperature.

562. THE SCUM WHICH RISES to the surface of the pot during the operation
of boiling must be carefully removed, otherwise it will attach itself to
the meat, and thereby spoil its appearance. The cook must not neglect to
skim during the whole process, though by far the greater part of the
scum rises at first. The practice of wrapping meat in a cloth may be
dispensed with if the skimming be skillfully managed. If the scum be
removed as fast as it rises, the meat will be cooked clean and pure, and
come out of the vessel in which it was boiled, much more delicate and
firm than when cooked in a cloth.

563. WHEN TAKEN FROM THE POT, the meat must be wiped with a clean cloth,
or, what will be found more convenient, a sponge previously dipped in
water and wrung dry. The meat should not be allowed to stand a moment
longer than necessary, as boiled meat, as well as roasted, cannot be
eaten too hot.

564. THE TIME ALLOWED FOR THE OPERATION OF BOILING must be regulated
according to the size and quality of the meat. As a general rule, twenty
minutes, reckoning from the moment when the boiling commences, may be
allowed for every pound of meat. All the best authorities, however,
agree in this, that the longer the boiling the more perfect the
operation.

565. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF SALTED MEAT may be
properly introduced in this place. Every housewife knows that dry salt
in contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine. The
application of salt causes the fibres of the meat to contract, and the
juice to flow out from its pores: as much as one-third of the juice of
the meat is often forced out in this manner. Now, as this juice is pure
extract of meat, containing albumen, osmazome, and other valuable
principles, it follows that meat which has been preserved by the action
of salt can never have the nutritive properties of fresh meat.

566. THE VESSELS USED FOR BOILING should be made of cast-iron, well
tinned within, and provided with closely-fitting lids. They must be kept
scrupulously clean, otherwise they will render the meat cooked in them
unsightly and unwholesome. Copper pans, if used at all, should be
reserved for operations that are performed with rapidity; as, by long
contact with copper, food may become dangerously contaminated. The
kettle in which a joint is dressed should be large enough to allow room
for a good supply of water; if the meat be cramped and be surrounded
with but little water, it will be stewed, not boiled.

567. IN STEWING, IT IS NOT REQUISITE to have so great a heat as in
boiling. A gentle simmering in a small quantity of water, so that the
meat is stewed almost in its own juices, is all that is necessary. It is
a method much used on the continent, and is wholesome and economical.

[Illustration: BOILING-POT.]

[Illustration: STEWPAN.]

    Two useful culinary vessels are represented above. One is a
    boiling-pot, in which large joints may be boiled; the other is a
    stewpan, with a closely-fitting lid, to which is attached a long
    handle; so that the cover can be removed without scalding the
    fingers.

[Illustration: HOT-PLATE.]

568. THE HOT-PLATE is a modern improvement on the old kitchen ranges,
being used for boiling and stewing. It is a plate of cast iron, having a
closed fire burning beneath it, by which it is thoroughly well heated.
On this plate are set the various saucepans, stewpans, &c.; and, by this
convenient and economical method, a number of dishes may be prepared at
one time. The culinary processes of braising and stewing are, in this
manner, rendered more gradual, and consequently the substance acted on
becomes more tender, and the gravy is not so much reduced.


BROILING.

[Illustration: REVOLVING GRIDIRON.]

569. GENERALLY SPEAKING, small dishes only are prepared by this mode of
cooking; amongst these, the beef-steak and mutton chop of the solitary
English diner may be mentioned as celebrated all the world over. Our
beef-steak, indeed, has long crossed the Channel; and, with a view of
pleasing the Britons, there is in every _carte_ at every French
restaurant, by the side of _à la Marengo_, and _à la Mayonnaise,--bifteck
d'Angleterre_. In order to succeed in a broil, the cook must have a
bright, clear fire; so that the surface of the meat may be quickly heated.
The result of this is the same as that obtained in roasting; namely, that
a crust, so to speak, is formed outside, and thus the juices of the meat
are retained. The appetite of an invalid, so difficult to minister to, is
often pleased with a broiled dish, as the flavour and sapidity of the meat
are so well preserved.

570. THE UTENSILS USED FOR BROILING need but little description. The
common gridiron, for which see engraving at No. 68, is the same as it
has been for ages past, although some little variety has been introduced
into its manufacture, by the addition of grooves to the bars, by means
of which the liquid fat is carried into a small trough. One point it is
well to bear in mind, viz., that the gridiron should be kept in a
direction slanting towards the cook, so that as little fat as possible
may fall into the fire. It has been observed, that broiling is the most
difficult manual office the general cook has to perform, and one that
requires the most unremitting attention; for she may turn her back upon
the stewpan or the spit, but the gridiron can never be left with
impunity. The revolving gridiron, shown in the engraving, possesses some
advantages of convenience, which will be at once apparent.


FRYING.

[Illustration: SAUTÉ PAN.]

571. THIS VERY FAVOURITE MODE OF COOKING may be accurately described as
boiling in fat or oil. Substances dressed in this way are generally well
received, for they introduce an agreeable variety, possessing, as they
do, a peculiar flavour. By means of frying, cooks can soon satisfy many
requisitions made on them, it being a very expeditious mode of preparing
dishes for the table, and one which can be employed when the fire is not
sufficiently large for the purposes of roasting and boiling. The great
point to be borne in mind in frying, is that the liquid must be hot
enough to act instantaneously, as all the merit of this culinary
operation lies in the invasion of the boiling liquid, which carbonizes
or burns, at the very instant of the immersion of the body placed in it.
It may be ascertained if the fat is heated to the proper degree, by
cutting a piece of bread and dipping it in the frying-pan for five or
six seconds; and if it be firm and of a dark brown when taken out, put
in immediately what you wish to prepare; if it be not, let the fat be
heated until of the right temperature. This having been effected,
moderate the fire, so that the action may not be too hurried, and that
by a continuous heat the juices of the substance may be preserved, and
its flavour enhanced.

572. THE PHILOSOPHY OF FRYING consists in this, that liquids subjected
to the action of fire do not all receive the same quantity of heat.
Being differently constituted in their nature, they possess different
"capacities for caloric." Thus, you may, with impunity, dip your finger
in boiling spirits of wine; you would take it very quickly from boiling
brandy, yet more rapidly from water; whilst the effects of the most
rapid immersion in boiling oil need not be told. As a consequence of
this, heated fluids act differently on the sapid bodies presented to
them. Those put in water, dissolve, and are reduced to a soft mass; the
result being _bouillon_, stock, &c. (_see_ No. 103). Those substances,
on the contrary, treated with oil, harden, assume a more or less deep
colour, and are finally carbonized. The reason of these different
results is, that, in the first instance, water dissolves and extracts
the interior juices of the alimentary substances placed in it; whilst,
in the second, the juices are preserved; for they are insoluble in oil.

573. IT IS TO BE ESPECIALLY REMEMBERED, in connection with frying, that
all dishes fried in fat should be placed before the fire on a piece of
blotting-paper, or sieve reversed, and there left for a few minutes, so
that any superfluous greasy moisture may be removed.

574. THE UTENSILS USED FOR THE PURPOSES OF FRYING are confined to
frying-pans, although these are of various sizes; and, for small and
delicate dishes, such as collops, fritters, pancakes, &c., the _sauté_
pan, of which we give an engraving, is used.


COOKING BY GAS.

[Illustration: GAS STOVE.]

575. GAS-COOKING can scarcely now be considered a novelty,--many
establishments, both small and large, have been fitted with apparatus
for cooking by this mode, which undoubtedly exhibits some advantages.
Thus the heat may be more regularly supplied to the substance cooking,
and the operation is essentially a clean one, because there can be no
cinders or other dirt to be provided for. Some labour and attention
necessary, too, with a coal fire or close stove, may be saved; and,
besides this, it may, perhaps, be said that culinary operations are
reduced, by this means, to something like a certainty.

576. THERE ARE, HOWEVER, WE THINK, MANY OBJECTIONS to this mode of
cooking, more especially when applied to small domestic establishments.
For instance, the ingenious machinery necessary for carrying it out,
requires cooks perfectly conversant with its use; and if the gas, when
the cooking operations are finished, be not turned off, there will be a
large increase in the cost of cooking, instead of the economy which it
has been supposed to bring. For large establishments, such as some of
the immense London warehouses, where a large number of young men have to
be catered for daily, it may be well adapted, as it is just possible
that a slight increase in the supply of gas necessary for a couple of
joints, may serve equally to cook a dozen dishes.


ROASTING.

577. OF THE VARIOUS METHODS OF PREPARING MEAT, ROASTING is that which
most effectually preserves its nutritive qualities. Meat is roasted by
being exposed to the direct influence of the fire. This is done by
placing the meat before an open grate, and keeping it in motion to
prevent the scorching on any particular part. When meat is properly
roasted, the outer layer of its albumen is coagulated, and thus presents
a barrier to the exit of the juice. In roasting meat, the heat must be
strongest at first, and it should then be much reduced. To have a good
juicy roast, therefore, the fire must be red and vigorous at the very
commencement of the operation. In the most careful roasting, some of the
juice is squeezed out of the meat: this evaporates on the surface of the
meat, and gives it a dark brown colour, a rich lustre, and a strong
aromatic taste. Besides these effects on the albumen and the expelled
juice, roasting converts the cellular tissue of the meat into gelatine,
and melts the fat out of the fat-cells.

578. IF A SPIT is used to support the meat before the fire, it should be
kept quite bright. Sand and water ought to be used to scour it with, for
brickdust and oil may give a disagreeable taste to the meat. When well
scoured, it must be wiped quite dry with a clean cloth; and, in spitting
the meat, the prime parts should be left untouched, so as to avoid any
great escape of its juices.

579. KITCHENS IN LARGE ESTABLISHMENTS are usually fitted with what are
termed "smoke-jacks." By means of these, several spits, if required, may
be turned at the same time. This not being, of course, necessary in
smaller establishments, a roasting apparatus, more economical in its
consumption of coal, is more frequently in use.

[Illustration: BOTTLE-JACK, WITH WHEEL AND HOOK.]

580. THE BOTTLE-JACK, of which we here give an illustration, with the
wheel and hook, and showing the precise manner of using it, is now
commonly used in many kitchens. This consists of a spring inclosed in a
brass cylinder, and requires winding up before it is used, and
sometimes, also, during the operation of roasting. The joint is fixed to
an iron hook, which is suspended by a chain connected with a wheel, and
which, in its turn, is connected with the bottle-jack. Beneath it stands
the dripping-pan, which we have also engraved, together with the
basting-ladle, the use of which latter should not be spared; as there
can be no good roast without good basting. "Spare the rod, and spoil the
child," might easily be paraphrased into "Spare the basting, and spoil
the meat." If the joint is small and light, and so turns unsteadily,
this may be remedied by fixing to the wheel one of the kitchen weights.
Sometimes this jack is fixed inside a screen; but there is this
objection to this apparatus,--that the meat cooked in it resembles the
flavour of baked meat. This is derived from its being so completely
surrounded with the tin, that no sufficient current of air gets to it.
It will be found preferable to make use of a common meat-screen, such as
is shown in the woodcut. This contains shelves for warming plates and
dishes; and with this, the reflection not being so powerful, and more
air being admitted to the joint, the roast may be very excellently
cooked.

[Illustration: DRIPPING-PAN AND BASTING-LADLE.]

581. IN STIRRING THE FIRE, or putting fresh coals on it, the
dripping-pan should always be drawn back, so that there may be no danger
of the coal, cinders, or ashes falling down into it.

582. UNDER EACH PARTICULAR RECIPE there is stated the time required for
roasting each joint; but, as a general rule, it may be here given, that
for every pound of meat, in ordinary-sized joints, a quarter of an hour
may be allotted.

[Illustration: HEAT-SCREEN.]

583. WHITE MEATS, AND THE MEAT OF YOUNG ANIMALS, require to be very well
roasted, both to be pleasant to the palate and easy of digestion. Thus
veal, pork, and lamb, should be thoroughly done to the centre.

584. MUTTON AND BEEF, on the other hand, do not, generally speaking,
require to be so thoroughly done, and they should be dressed to the
point, that, in carving them, the gravy should just run, but not too
freely. Of course in this, as in most other dishes, the tastes of
individuals vary; and there are many who cannot partake, with
satisfaction, of any joint unless it is what others would call
overdressed.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

QUADRUPEDS.


CHAPTER XII.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS.

585. BY THE GENERAL ASSENT OF MANKIND, THE EMPIRE OF NATURE has been
divided into three kingdoms; the first consisting of minerals, the
second of vegetables, and the third of animals. The Mineral Kingdom
comprises all substances which are without those organs necessary to
locomotion, and the due performance of the functions of life. They are
composed of the accidental aggregation of particles, which, under
certain circumstances, take a constant and regular figure, but which are
more frequently found without any definite conformation. They also
occupy the interior parts of the earth, as well as compose those huge
masses by which we see the land in some parts guarded against the
encroachments of the sea. The Vegetable Kingdom covers and beautifies
the earth with an endless variety of form and colour. It consists of
organized bodies, but destitute of the power of locomotion. They are
nourished by means of roots; they breathe by means of leaves; and
propagate by means of seed, dispersed within certain limits. The Animal
Kingdom consists of sentient beings, that enliven the external parts of
the earth. They possess the powers of voluntary motion, respire air, and
are forced into action by the cravings of hunger or the parching of
thirst, by the instincts of animal passion, or by pain. Like the
vegetable kingdom, they are limited within the boundaries of certain
countries by the conditions of climate and soil; and some of the species
prey upon each other. Linnaeus has divided them into six
classes;--Mammalia, Birds, Fishes, Amphibious Animals, Insects, and
Worms. The three latter do not come within the limits of our domain; of
fishes we have already treated, of birds we shall treat, and of mammalia
we will now treat.

586. THIS CLASS OF ANIMALS embraces all those that nourish their young
by means of lacteal glands, or teats, and are so constituted as to have
a warm or red blood. In it the whale is placed,--an order which, from
external habits, has usually been classed with the fishes; but, although
this animal exclusively inhabits the water, and is supplied with fins,
it nevertheless exhibits a striking alliance to quadrupeds. It has warm
blood, and produces its young alive; it nourishes them with milk, and,
for that purpose, is furnished with teats. It is also supplied with
lungs, and two auricles and two ventricles to the heart; all of which
bring it still closer into an alliance with the quadrupedal species of
the animal kingdom.

587. THE GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAMMALIA have been frequently
noticed. The bodies of nearly the whole species are covered with hair, a
kind of clothing which is both soft and warm, little liable to injury,
and bestowed in proportion to the necessities of the animal and the
nature of the climate it inhabits. In all the higher orders of animals,
the head is the principal seat of the organs of sense. It is there that
the eyes, the ears, the nose, and the mouth are placed. Through the last
they receive their nourishment. In it are the _teeth_, which, in most of
the mammalia, are used not only for the mastication of food, but as
weapons of offence. They are inserted into two movable bones called
jaws, and the front teeth are so placed that their sharp edges may
easily be brought in contact with their food, in order that its fibres
may readily be separated. Next to these, on each side, are situated the
canine teeth, or tusks, which are longer than the other teeth, and,
being pointed, are used to tear the food. In the back jaws are placed
another form of teeth, called grinders. These are for masticating the
food; and in those animals that live on vegetables, they are flattened
at the top; but, in carnivora, their upper surfaces are furnished with
sharp-pointed protuberances. From the numbers, form, and disposition of
the teeth, the various genera of quadrupeds have been arranged. The
_nose_ is a cartilaginous body, pierced with two holes, which are called
nostrils. Through these the animal is affected by the sense of smell;
and in some it is prominent, whilst in others it is flat, compressed,
turned upwards, or bent downwards. In beasts of prey, it is frequently
longer than the lips; and in some other animals it is elongated into a
movable trunk or proboscis, whilst, in the rhinoceros tribe, it is armed
with a horn. The _eyes_ of quadrupeds are generally defended by movable
lids, on the outer margins of which are fringes of hair, called
eyelashes. The opening of the pupil is in general circular; but to some
species, as in those of the Cat and Hare, it is contracted into a
perpendicular line, whilst in the Horse, the Ox, and a few others, it
forms a transverse bar. The _ears_ are openings, generally accompanied
with a cartilage which defends and covers them, called the external
ears. In water-animals the latter are wanting; sound, in them, being
transmitted merely through orifices in the head, which have the name of
auditory-holes. The most defenceless animals are extremely delicate in
the sense of hearing, as are likewise most beasts of prey. Most of the
mammiferous animals _walk_ on four feet, which, at the extremities, are
usually divided into toes or fingers. In some, however, the feet end in
a single corneous substance called a hoof. The toes of a few end in
broad, flat nails, and of most others, in pointed claws. Some, again,
have the toes connected by a membrane, which is adapted to those that
are destined to pass a considerable portion of their lives in water.
Others, again, as in the Bat, have the digitations of the anterior feet
greatly elongated, the intervening space being filled by a membrane,
which extends round the hinder legs and tail, and by means of which they
are enabled to rise into the air. In Man, the hand alone comprises
fingers, separate, free, and flexible; but Apes, and some other kinds of
animals, have fingers both to the hands and feet. These, therefore, are
the only animals that can hold movable objects in a single hand. Others,
such as Rats and Squirrels, have the fingers sufficiently small and
flexible to enable them to pick up objects; but they are compelled to
hold them in both hands. Others, again, have the toes shorter, and must
rest on the fore-feet, as is the case with dogs and cats when they wish
to hold a substance firmly on the ground with their paws. There are
still others that have their toes united and drawn under the skin, or
enveloped in corneous hoofs, and are thereby enabled to exercise no
prehensile power whatever.

588. ACCORDING TO THE DESIGN AND END OF NATURE, mammiferous animals are
calculated, when arrived at maturity, to subsist on various kinds of
food,--some to live wholly upon flesh, others upon grain, herbs, or
fruits; but in their infant state, milk is the appropriate food of the
whole. That this food may never fail them, it is universally ordained,
that the young should no sooner come into the world, than the milk
should flow in abundance into the members with which the mother is
supplied for the secretion of that nutritious fluid. By a wonderful
instinct of Nature, too, the young animal, almost as soon as it has come
into life, searches for the teat, and knows perfectly, at the first,
how, by the process of suction, it will be able to extract the fluid
necessary to its existence.

589. IN THE GENERAL ECONOMY OF NATURE, this class of animals seems
destined to preserve a constant equilibrium in the number of animated
beings that hold their existence on the surface of the earth. To man
they are immediately useful in various ways. Some of their bodies afford
him food, their skin shoes, and their fleece clothes. Some of them unite
with him in participating the dangers of combat with an enemy, and
others assist him in the chase, in exterminating wilder sorts, or
banishing them from the haunts of civilization. Many, indeed, are
injurious to him; but most of them, in some shape or other, he turns to
his service. Of these there is none he has made more subservient to his
purposes than the common ox, of which there is scarcely a part that he
has not been able to convert into some useful purpose. Of the horns he
makes drinking-vessels, knife-handles, combs, and boxes; and when they
are softened by means of boiling water, he fashions them into
transparent plates for lanterns. This invention is ascribed to King
Alfred, who is said to have been the first to use them to preserve his
candle time-measures from the wind. Glue is made of the cartilages,
gristles, and the finer pieces of the parings and cuttings of the hides.
Their bone is a cheap substitute for ivory. The thinnest of the
calf-skins are manufactured into vellum. Their blood is made the basis
of Prussian blue, and saddlers use a fine sort of thread prepared from
their sinews. The hair is used in various valuable manufactures; the
suet, fat, and tallow, are moulded into candles; and the milk and cream
of the cow yield butter and cheese. Thus is every part of this animal
valuable to man, who has spared no pains to bring it to the highest
state of perfection.

[Illustration: SHORT-HORN COW.]

[Illustration: SHORT-HORN BULL.]

590. AMONG THE VARIOUS BREEDS OF THE OX, upon which man has bestowed his
highest powers of culture, there is now none takes a higher place than
that known by the name of Short-Horns. From the earliest ages, Great
Britain has been distinguished for the excellence of her native breeds
of cattle, and there are none in England that have obtained greater
celebrity than those which have this name, and which originated, about
seventy years ago, on the banks of the Tees. Thence they have spread
into the valleys of the Tweed; thence to the Lothians, in Scotland; and
southward, into the fine pastures of England. They are now esteemed the
most profitable breed of cattle, as there is no animal which attains
sooner to maturity, and none that supplies meat of a superior quality.
The value of some of the improved breeds is something enormous. At the
sale of Mr. Charles Colling, a breeder in Yorkshire, in 1810, his bull
"Comet" sold for 1,000 guineas. At the sale of Earl Spencer's herd in
1846, 104 cows, heifers, and calves, with nineteen bulls, fetched
£8,468. 5s.; being an average of £68. 17s. apiece. The value of such
animals is scarcely to be estimated by those who are unacquainted with
the care with which they are tended, and with the anxious attention
which is paid to the purity of their breed. A modern writer, well
acquainted with this subject, says, "There are now, at least, five
hundred herds, large and small, in this kingdom, and from six to seven
thousand head registered every alternate year in the herd-book." The
necessity for thus recording the breeds is greater than might, at first
sight, be imagined, as it tends directly to preserve the character of
the cattle, while it sometimes adds to the value and reputation of the
animal thus entered. Besides, many of the Americans, and large
purchasers for the foreign market, will not look at an animal without
the breeder has taken care to qualify him for such reference. Of
short-horned stock, there is annually sold from £40,000 to £50,000 worth
by public auction, independent of the vast numbers disposed of by
private contract. The brood is highly prized in Belgium, Prussia,
France, Italy, and Russia; it is imported into most of the British
colonies, and is greatly esteemed both for its meat and its dairy
produce, wherever it is known. The quickness with which it takes on
flesh, and the weight which it frequently makes, are well known; but we
may mention that it is not uncommon to tee steers of from four to five
years old realize a weight of from 800 to 1,000 lbs. Such animals
command from the butcher from £30 to £40 per head, according to the
quality; whilst others, of two or three years old, and, of course, of
less Weight, bring as much as £20 apiece.

[Illustration: LONG-HORN BULL.]

[Illustration: LONG-HORN COW.]

591. LONG-HORNS.--This is the prevailing breed in our midland counties
and in Ireland; but they are greatly inferior to the short-horns, and
are fast being supplanted by them. Even where they have been cultivated
with the nicest care and brought to the greatest perfection, they are
inferior to the others, and must ultimately be driven from the farm.

[Illustration: ALDERNEY COW.]

[Illustration: ALDERNEY BULL.]

592. THE ALDERNEY.--Among the dairy breeds of England, the Alderney
takes a prominent place, not on account of the quantity of milk which it
yields, but on account of the excellent quality of the cream and butter
which are produced from it. Its docility is marvellous, and in
appearance it greatly resembles the Ayrshire breed of Scotland, the
excellence of which is supposed to be, in some degree, derived from a
mixture of the Alderney blood with that breed. The distinction between
them, however, lies both in the quantity and quality of the milk which
they severally produce; that of the Alderney being rich in quality, and
that of the Ayrshire abundant in quantity. The merit of the former,
however, ends with its milk, for as a grazer it is worthless.

[Illustration: GALLOWAY BULL.]

[Illustration: GALLOWAY COW.]

593. SCOTTISH BREEDS.--Of these the Kyloe, which belongs to the
Highlands of Scotland; the Galloway, which has been called the Kyloe
without horns; and the Ayrshire, are the breeds most celebrated. The
first has kept his place, and on account of the compactness of his form,
and the excellent quality of his flesh, he is a great favourite with
butchers who have a select family trade. It is alike unsuitable for the
dairy and the arable farm; but in its native Highlands it attains to
great perfection, thriving upon the scanty and coarse herbage which it
gathers on the sides of the mountains. The Galloway has a larger frame,
and when fattened makes excellent beef. But it has given place to the
short-horns in its native district, where turnip-husbandry is pursued
with advantage. The Ayrshire is peculiarly adapted for the dairy, and
for the abundance of its milk cannot be surpassed in its native
district. In this it stands unrivalled, and there is no other breed
capable of converting the produce of a poor soil into such fine butter
and cheese. It is difficult to fatten, however, and its beef is of a
coarse quality. We have chosen these as among the principal
representative breeds of the ox species; but there are other breeds
which, at all events, have a local if not a general celebrity.

[Illustration: SIDE OF BEEF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]

594. The general Mode of Slaughtering Oxen in this country is by
striking them a smart blow with a hammer or poleaxe on the head, a
little above the eyes. By this means, when the blow is skilfully given,
the beast is brought down at one blow, and, to prevent recovery, a cane
is generally inserted, by which the spinal cord is perforated, which
instantly deprives the ox of all sensation of pain. In Spain, and some
other countries on the continent, it is also usual to deprive oxen of
life by the operation of pithing or dividing the spinal cord in the
neck, close to the back part of the head. This is, in effect, the same
mode as is practised in the celebrated Spanish bull-fights by the
matador, and it is instantaneous in depriving the animal of sensation,
if the operator be skilful. We hope and believe that those men whose
disagreeable duty it is to slaughter the "beasts of the field" to
provide meat for mankind, inflict as little punishment and cause as
little suffering as possible.

595. THE MANNER IN WHICH A SIDE OF BEEF is cut up in London, is shown in
the engraving on this page. In the metropolis, on account of the large
number of its population possessing the means to indulge in the "best of
everything," the demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great,
the price, at the same time, being much higher for these than for the
other parts. The consequence is, that in London the carcass is there
divided so as to obtain the greatest quantity of meat on the most
esteemed joints. In many places, however, where, from a greater equality
in the social condition and habits of the inhabitants, the demand and
prices for the different parts of the carcasses are more equalized,
there is not the same reason for the butcher to cut the best joints so
large.

596. THE MEAT ON THOSE PARTS OF THE ANIMAL in which the muscles are
least called into action, is most tender and succulent; as, for
instance, along the back, from the rump to the hinder part of the
shoulder; whilst the limbs, shoulder, and neck, are the toughest,
driest, and least-esteemed.

597. THE NAMES OF THE SEVERAL JOINTS in the hind and fore quarters of a
side of beef, and the purposes for which they are used, are as
follows:--

HIND QUARTER.

1. Sirloin.--The two sirloins, cut together in one joint, form a baron;
this, when roasted, is the famous national dish of Englishmen, at
entertainments, on occasion of rejoicing.

2. Rump,--the finest part for steaks.

3. Aitch-bone,--boiling piece.

4. Buttock,--prime boiling piece.

5. Mouse-round,--boiling or stewing.

6. Hock,--stewing.

7. Thick flank, cut with the udder-fat,--primest boiling piece.

8. Thin flank,--boiling.


FORE QUARTER.

9. Five ribs, called the fore-rib.--This is considered the primest
roasting piece.

10. Four ribs, called the middle-rib,--greatly esteemed by housekeepers
as the most economical joint for roasting.

11. Two ribs, called the chuck-rib,--used for second quality of steaks.

12. Leg-of-mutton piece,--the muscles of the shoulder dissected from the
breast.

13. Brisket, or breast,--used for boiling, after being salted.

14. Neck, clod, and sticking-piece,--used for soups, gravies, stocks,
pies, and mincing for sausages.

15. Shin,--stewing.

The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according to
the several joints of beef, when cut up in the London manner.

_First class_.--includes the sirloin, with the kidney suet (1), the
rump-steak piece (2), the fore-rib (9).

_Second class_.--The buttock (4), the thick flank (7), the middle-rib
(10).

_Third class_.--The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank
(8), the chuck (11), the leg-of-mutton piece (12), the brisket (13).

_Fourth class_.--The neck, clod, and sticking-piece (14).

_Fifth class_.--The hock (6), the shin (15).




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XIII.


BAKED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).

I.

598. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 2 small onions, 1
large carrot or two small ones, 1 turnip, a small bunch of savoury
herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 3
tablespoonfuls of ale, crust or mashed potatoes.

_Mode_.--Cut the beef in slices, allowing a small amount of fat to each
slice; place a layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish, with a portion
of the onions, carrots, and turnips, which must be sliced; mince the
herbs, strew them over the meat, and season with pepper and salt. Then
put another layer of meat, vegetables, and seasoning; and proceed in
this manner until all the ingredients are used. Pour in the gravy and
ale (water may be substituted for the former, but it is not so nice),
cover with a crust or mashed potatoes, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather
longer.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--It is as well to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding
them to the meat, and to use some of the liquor in which they were
boiled as a substitute for gravy; that is to say, when there is no gravy
at hand. Be particular to cut the onions in very _thin_ slices.


II.

599. INGREDIENTS.--Slices of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to taste,
1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 5 or 6
tablespoonfuls of gravy or sauce of any kind, mashed potatoes.

_Mode_.--Butter the sides of a deep dish, and spread mashed potatoes
over the bottom of it; on this place layers of beef in thin slices (this
may be minced if there is not sufficient beef to cut into slices), well
seasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little onion end herbs, which
should be previously fried of a nice brown; then put another layer of
mashed potatoes, and beef, and other ingredients, as before; pour in the
gravy or sauce, cover the whole with another layer of potatoes, and bake
for 1/2 hour. This may be served in the dish, or turned out.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 6d.

_Sufficient_.--A large pie-dish full for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    BEEF.--The quality of beef depends on various circumstances;
    such as the age, the sex, the breed of the animal, and also on
    the food upon which it has been raised. Bull beef is, in
    general, dry and tough, and by no means possessed of an
    agreeable flavour; whilst the flesh of the ox is not only highly
    nourishing and digestible, but, if not too old, extremely
    agreeable. The flesh of the cow is, also, nourishing, but it is
    not so agreeable as that of the ox, although that of a heifer is
    held in high estimation. The flesh of the smaller breeds is much
    sweeter than that of the larger, which is best when the animal
    is about seven years old. That of the smaller breeds is best at
    about five years, and that of the cow can hardly be eaten too
    young.

BAKED BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.

600. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, not quite 1 pint of milk,
salt to taste, 1-1/2 lb. of rump-steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and salt.

_Mode_.--Cut the steaks into nice square pieces, with a small quantity
of fat, and the kidney divide into small pieces. Make a batter of flour,
eggs, and milk in the above proportion; lay a little of it at the bottom
of a pie-dish; then put in the steaks and kidney, which should be well
seasoned with pepper and salt, and pour over the remainder of the
batter, and bake for 1-1/2 hour in a brisk but not fierce oven.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BEEF A LA MODE.

(_Economical_.)

601. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of clod or sticking of beef, 2 oz. of
clarified dripping, 1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of water, 12 berries
of allspice, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, salt
to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the beef into small pieces, and roll them in flour; put the
dripping into a stewpan with the onion, which should be sliced thin. Let
it get quite hot; lay in the pieces of beef, and stir them well about.
When nicely browned all over, add _by degrees_ boiling water in the
above proportion, and, as the water is added, keep the whole well
stirred. Put in the spice, bay-leaves, and seasoning, cover the stewpan
closely, and set it by the side of the fire to stew very _gently_, till
the meat becomes quite tender, which will be in about 3 hours, when it
will be ready to serve. Remove the bay-leaves before it is sent to
table.

_Time_.--3 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BEEF A LA MODE.

602. INGREDIENTS.--6 or 7 lbs. of the thick flank of beef, a few slices
of fat bacon, 1 teacupful of vinegar, black pepper, allspice, 2 cloves
well mixed and finely pounded, making altogether 1 heaped teaspoonful;
salt to taste, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, all finely
minced and well mixed; 3 onions, 2 large carrots, 1 turnip, 1 head of
celery, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 glass of port wine.

_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown, and cut up the other
vegetables in small pieces, and prepare the beef for stewing in the
following manner:--Choose a fine piece of beef, cut the bacon into long
slices, about an inch in thickness, dip them into vinegar, and then into
a little of the above seasoning of spice, &c., mixed with the same
quantity of minced herbs. With a sharp knife make holes deep enough to
let in the bacon; then rub the beef over with the remainder of the
seasoning and herbs, and bind it up in a nice shape with tape. Have
ready a well-tinned stewpan (it should not be much larger than the piece
of meat you are cooking), into which put the beef, with the vegetables,
vinegar, and water. Let it simmer _very gently_ for 5 hours, or rather
longer, should the meat not be extremely tender, and turn it once or
twice. When ready to serve, take out the beef, remove the tape, and put
it on a hot dish. Skim off every particle of fat from the gravy, add the
port wine, just let it boil, pour it over the beef, and it is ready to
serve. Great care must be taken that this does not boil fast, or the
meat will be tough and tasteless; it should only just bubble. When
convenient, all kinds of stews, &c., should be cooked on a hot-plate, as
the process is so much more gradual than on an open fire.

_Time_.--5 hours, or rather more.

_Average cost_, 7d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for a winter dish.

    GOOD MEAT.--The lyer of meat when freshly killed, and the
    animal, when slaughtered, being in a state of perfect health,
    adheres firmly to the bones. Beef of the best quality is of a
    deep-red colour; and when the animal has approached maturity,
    and been well fed, the lean is intermixed with fat, giving it
    the mottled appearance which is so much esteemed. It is also
    full of juice, which resembles in colour claret wine. The fat of
    the best beef is of a firm and waxy consistency, of a colour
    resembling that of the finest grass butter; bright in
    appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch, but
    moderately unctuous, in a medium degree between the
    last-mentioned properties.

BEEF-STEAKS AND OYSTER SAUCE.

603. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, ingredients for oyster sauce (see
No. 492), 2 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt.

_Mode_.--Make the oyster sauce by recipe No. 492, and when that is
ready, put it by the side of the fire, but do not let it keep boiling.
Have the steaks cut of an equal thickness, broil them over a very clear
fire, turning them often, that the gravy may not escape. In about 8
minutes they will be done, then put them on a very hot dish; smother
with the oyster sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.
Serve quickly.

_Time_.--About 8 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the steak.

_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.


BEEF-STEAK PIE.

604. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of salt,
cayenne, and black pepper, crust, water, the yolk of an egg.

_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut from a rump that has hung a few days, that
they may be tender, and be particular that every portion is perfectly
sweet. Cut the steaks into pieces about 3 inches long and 2 wide,
allowing a _small_ piece of fat to each piece of lean, and arrange the
meat in layers in a pie-dish. Between each layer sprinkle a seasoning of
salt, pepper, and, when liked, a few grains of cayenne. Fill the dish
sufficiently with meat to support the crust, and to give it a nice
raised appearance when baked, and not to look flat and hollow. Pour in
sufficient water to half fill the dish, and border it with paste (see
Pastry); brush it over with a little water, and put on the cover;
slightly press down the edges with the thumb, and trim off close to the
dish. Ornament the pie with leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shape
that fancy may direct, brush it over with the beaten yolk of an egg;
make a hole in the top of the crust, and bake in a hot oven for about
1-1/2 hour.


_Time_.--In a hot oven, 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, for this size, 3s 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

Note.--Beef-steak pies may be flavoured in various ways, with oysters
and their liquor, mushrooms, minced onions, &c. For family pies, suet
may be used instead of butter or lard for the crust, and clarified
beef-dripping answers very well where economy is an object. Pieces of
underdone roast or boiled meat may in pies be used very advantageously;
but always remove the bone from pie-meat, unless it be chicken or game.
We have directed that the meat shall be cut smaller than is usually the
case; for on trial we have found it much more tender, more easily
helped, and with more gravy, than when put into the dish in one or two
large steaks.

[Illustration: SHERRY PUDDING DISH.]

BEEF-STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING.

605. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 2 kidneys, seasoning to taste
of salt and black pepper, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the
proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each 1 lb. of flour.

_Mode_.--Procure some tender rump steak (that which has been hung a
little time), and divide it into pieces about an inch square, and cut
each kidney into 8 pieces. Line the dish (of which we have given an
engraving) with crust made with suet and flour in the above proportion,
leaving a small piece of crust to overlap the edge. Then cover the
bottom with a portion of the steak and a few pieces of kidney; season
with salt and pepper (some add a little flour to thicken the gravy, but
it is not necessary), and then add another layer of steak, kidney, and
seasoning. Proceed in this manner till the dish is full, when pour in
sufficient water to come within 2 inches of the top of the basin.
Moisten the edges of the crust, cover the pudding over, press the two
crusts together, that the gravy may not escape, and turn up the
overhanging paste. Wring out a cloth in hot water, flour it, and tie up
the pudding; put it into boiling water, and let it boil for at least 4
hours. If the water diminishes, always replenish with some, hot in a
jug, as the pudding should be kept covered all the time, and not allowed
to stop boiling. When the cloth is removed, cut out a round piece in the
top of the crust, to prevent the pudding bursting, and send it to table
in the basin, either in an ornamental dish, or with a napkin pinned
round it. Serve quickly.

_Time_.--For a pudding with 2 lbs. of steak and 2 kidneys allow 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 2s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.

Note.--Beef-steak pudding may be very much enriched by adding a few
oysters or mushrooms. The above recipe was contributed to this work by a
Sussex lady, in which county the inhabitants are noted for their savoury
puddings. It differs from the general way of making them, as the meat is
cut up into very small pieces and the basin is differently shaped: on
trial, this pudding will be found far nicer, and more full of gravy,
than when laid in large pieces in the dish.

    BAD MEAT. In the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst suffering
    acute inflammation or fever, the hollow fibres, or capillaries,
    as they are called, which form the substance of the lyer, are
    filled with congested and unassimilated animal fluid, which,
    from its impurity, gives the lyer a dark colour, and produces a
    tendency to rapid putrefaction. In a more advanced stage of such
    disease, serous, and sometimes purulent matter, is formed in the
    cellular tissues between the muscles of the flesh; and when such
    is the case, nothing can be more poisonous than such abominable
    carrion. In the flesh of animals killed whilst under the
    influence of any disease of an emaciating effect, the lyer
    adheres but slightly to the bones, with its fibres contracted
    and dry; and the little fat that there may be is friable, and
    shrunk within its integuments. The flesh of animals slaughtered
    whilst under considerable depression of vital energy (as from
    previous bleeding) has a diminished tendency to stiffen after
    death, the feebleness of this tendency being in proportion to
    the degree of depression. It presents, also, an unnatural blue
    or pallid appearance, has a faint and slightly sour smell, and
    soon becomes putrid. When an animal has died otherwise than by
    slaughtering, its flesh is flaccid and clammy, emits a peculiar
    faint and disagreeable smell, and, it need scarcely be added,
    spontaneous decomposition proceeds very rapidly.

BEEF-STEAKS WITH FRIED POTATOES, or BIFTEK AUX POMMES-DE-TERRE (a la
mode Francaise).

606. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of steak, 8 potatoes, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt
and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced herbs.

_Mode_.--Put the butter into a frying or _sauté_ pan, set it over the
fire, and let it get very hot; peel, and cut the potatoes into long thin
slices; put them into the hot butter, and fry them till of a nice brown
colour. Now broil the steaks over a bright clear fire, turning them
frequently, that every part may be equally done: as they should not be
thick, 5 minutes will broil them. Put the herbs and seasoning in the
butter the potatoes were fried in, pour it under the steak, and place
the fried potatoes round, as a garnish. To have this dish in perfection,
a portion of the fillet of the sirloin should be used, as the meat is
generally so much more tender than that of the rump, and the steaks
should be cut about 1/3 of an inch in thickness.

_Time_.--5 minutes to broil the steaks, and about the same time to fry
the potatoes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in warm weather, as the meat
cannot hang to get tender.

[Illustration: AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.]

BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.

607. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, water.

_Mode_.--After this joint has been in salt 5 or 6 days, it will be ready
for use, and will not take so long boiling: as a round, for it is not so
solid. Wash the meat, and, if too salt, soak it for a few hours,
changing the water once or twice, till the required freshness is
obtained. Put into a saucepan, or boiling-pot, sufficient water to cover
the meat; set it over the fire, and when it boils, plunge in the joint
(see No. 557), and let it boil up quickly. Now draw the pot to the side
of the fire, and let the process be very gradual, as the water must only
simmer, or the meat will be hard and tough. Carefully remove the scum
from the surface of the water, and continue doing this for a few minutes
after it first boils. Carrots and turnips are served with this dish, and
sometimes suet dumplings, which may be boiled with the beef. Garnish
with a few of the carrots and turnips, and serve the remainder in a
vegetable-dish.

_Time_.--An aitch-bone of 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours after the water boils;
one of 20 lbs., 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from September to March.

_Note_.--The liquor in which the meat has been boiled may be easily
converted into a very excellent pea-soup. It will require very few
vegetables, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of those boiled
with the meat.

    THE ACTION OF SALT ON MEAT.--The manner in which salt acts in
    preserving meat is not difficult to understand. By its strong
    affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the juices from the
    substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated
    solution with the water contained in the juice, and the meat
    then absorbs the saturated brine in place of the juice extracted
    by the salt. In this way, matter incapable of putrefaction takes
    the places of that portion in the meat which is most perishable.
    Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a means of
    preserving meat; it acts also by its astringency in contracting
    the fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on
    the interior of the substance of the meat. The last-mentioned
    operation of salt as an antiseptic is evinced by the diminution
    of the volume of meat to which it is applied. The astringent
    action of _saltpetre_ on meat is much greater than that of salt,
    and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard; but,
    in small quantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic
    action of salt, and also prevents the destruction of the florid
    colour of meat, which is caused by the application of salt.
    Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, that
    the application of salt and saltpetre diminishes, in a
    considerable degree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the
    wholesome qualities of meat; and, therefore, in their use, the
    quantity applied should be as small as possible, consistent with
    the perfect preservation of the meat.

BOILED ROUND OF BEEF.

608. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, water.

_Mode_.--As a whole round of beef, generally speaking, is too large for
small families, and very seldom required, we here give the recipe for
dressing a portion of the silver side of the round. Take from 12 to 16
lbs., after it has been in salt about 10 days; just wash off the salt,
skewer it up in a nice round-looking form, and bind it with tape to keep
the skewers in their places. Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, as
in the preceding recipe, set it upon a good fire, and when it begins to
boil, carefully remove all scum from the surface, as, if this is not
attended to, it sinks on to the meat, and when brought to table,
presents a very unsightly appearance. When it is well skimmed, draw the
pot to the corner of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until done.
Remove the tape and skewers, which should be replaced by a silver one;
pour over a little of the pot-liquor, and garnish with carrots. (_See_
coloured plate 2.) Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sometimes suet
dumplings, accompany this dish; and these may all be boiled with the
beef. The pot-liquor should be saved, and converted into pea-soup; and
the outside slices, which are generally hard, and of an uninviting
appearance, may be out off before being sent to table, and potted. These
make an excellent relish for the breakfast or luncheon table.

_Time_.--Part of a round of beef weighing 12 lbs., about 3 hours after
the water boils. _Average cost_, 8d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter.


609. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PRESERVING THE GRAVY IN SALT MEAT, WHEN IT IS TO
BE SERVED COLD.--Fill two tubs with cold water, into which throw a few
pounds of rough ice; and when the meat is done, put it into one of the
tubs of ice-water; let it remain 1 minute, when take out, and put it
into the other tub. Fill the first tub again with water, and continue
this process for about 20 minutes; then set it upon a dish, and let it
remain until quite cold. When cut, the fat will be as white as possible,
besides having saved the whole, of the gravy. If there is no ice, spring
water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more
frequently changed.

_Note_.--The BRISKET and RUMP may be boiled by the above recipe; of
course allowing more or less time, according to the size of the joint.


BEEF CAKE.

610. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of cold
meat allow 1/4 lb. of bacon or ham; seasoning to taste of pepper and
salt, 1 small bunch of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Mince the beef very finely (if underdone it will be better),
add to it the bacon, which must also be chopped very small, and mix well
together. Season, stir in the herbs, and bind with an egg, or 2 should 1
not be sufficient. Make it into small square cakes, about 1/2 inch
thick, fry them in hot dripping, and serve in a dish with good gravy
poured round them.

_Time_.--10 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BROILED BEEF-STEAKS or RUMP-STEAKS.

611. INGREDIENTS.--Steaks, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt
to taste, 1 tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce.

_Mode_.--As the success of a good broil so much depends on the state of
the fire, see that it is bright and clear, and perfectly free from
smoke, and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use the
gridiron. Sprinkle a little salt over the fire, put on the gridiron for
a few minutes, to get thoroughly hot through; rub it with a piece of
fresh, suet, to prevent the meat from sticking, and lay on the steaks,
which should be cut of an equal thickness, about 3/4 of an inch, or
rather thinner, and level them by beating them as _little_ as possible
with a rolling-pin. Turn them frequently with steak-tongs (if these are
not at hand, stick a fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravy
escapes), and in from 8 to 10 minutes they will be done. Have ready a
very hot dish, into which put the ketchup, and, when liked, a little
minced shalot; dish up the steaks, rub them over with butter, and season
with pepper and salt. The exact time for broiling steaks must be
determined by taste, whether they are liked underdone or well done; more
than from 8 to 10 minutes for a steak 3/4 inch in thickness, we think,
would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat. Great expedition is
necessary in sending broiled steaks to table; and, to have them in
perfection, they should not be cooked till everything else prepared for
dinner has been dished up, as their excellence entirely depends on their
being served very hot. Garnish with scraped horseradish, or slices of
cucumber. Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other sauces, are frequent
accompaniments to rump-steak, but true lovers of this English dish
generally reject all additions but pepper and salt.

_Time_.--8 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 lb. to each person; if the party consist
entirely of gentlemen, 3/4 lb. will not be too much.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good in the height of summer, as the
meat cannot hang long enough to be tender.

    DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF.--We have already stated (see No.
    593) that the Scots breed of oxen, like the South-down in
    mutton, stands first in excellence. It should be borne in mind,
    however, that each county has its particular season, and that
    the London and other large markets are always supplied by those
    counties whose meat, from local circumstances, is in the best
    condition at the time. Thus, the season in Norfolk, from which
    the Scots come (these being the principal oxen bred by the
    Norfolk and Suffolk graziers), commences about Christmas and
    terminates about June, when this breed begins to fall off, their
    place being taken by grass-fed oxen. A large quantity of most
    excellent meat is sent to the "dead markets" from Scotland, and
    some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source.

BROILED BEEF AND MUSHROOM SAUCE.

(Cold Meat Cookery).

612. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter,
salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, mashed
potatoes, slices of cold roast beef.

_Mode_.--Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and
salt; put them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, and ketchup;
stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done, when pour it in
the middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then place round the potatoes
slices of cold roast beef, nicely broiled, over a clear fire. In making
the mushroom sauce, the ketchup may be dispensed with, if there is
sufficient gravy.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 8d.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.


BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).

613. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of
butter, 1/2 teaspoonful of flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashed
potatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef.

_Mode_.--Put the oysters in a stewpan, with their liquor strained; add
the cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, and let them simmer
gently for 5 minutes. Have ready in the centre of a dish round walls of
mashed potatoes, browned; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quite
hot, and round the potatoes place, in layers, slices of the beef, which
should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire.

_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.


BROILED BEEF-BONES.

614. INGREDIENTS.--The bones of ribs or sirloin; salt, pepper, and
cayenne.

_Mode_.--Separate the bones, taking care that the meat on them is not
too thick in any part; sprinkle them well with the above seasoning, and
broil over a very clear fire. When nicely browned they are done; but do
not allow them to blacken.


TO DRESS A BULLOCK'S HEART.

615. INGREDIENTS.--1 heart, stuffing of veal forcemeat, No. 417.

_Mode_.--Put the heart into warm water to soak for 2 hours; then wipe it
well with a cloth, and, after cutting off the lobes, stuff the inside
with a highly-seasoned forcemeat (No. 417). Fasten it in, by means of a
needle and coarse thread; tie the heart up in paper, and set it before a
good fire, being very particular to keep it well basted, or it will eat
dry, there being very little of its own fat. Two or three minutes before
serving, remove the paper, baste well, and serve with good gravy and
red-currant jelly or melted butter. If the heart is very large, it will
require 2 hours, and, covered with a caul, may be baked as well as
roasted.

_Time_.--Large heart, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Note_.--This is an excellent family dish, is very savoury, and, though
not seen at many good tables, may be recommended for its cheapness and
economy.


BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK (Cold Meat Cookery).

616. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of cold boiled beef; butter,
cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Fry the slices of beef gently in a little butter, taking care
not to dry them up. Lay them on a flat dish, and cover with fried
greens. The greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or green savoys.
They should be boiled till tender, well drained, minced, and placed,
till quite hot, in a frying-pan, with butter, a sliced onion, and
seasoning of pepper and salt. When the onion is done, it is ready to
serve.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 3d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: COLLARED BEEF.]

COLLARED BEEF.

617. INGREDIENTS.--7 lbs. of the thin end of the flank of beef, 2 oz. of
coarse sugar, 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz, of saltpetre, 1 large handful of
parsley minced, 1 dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch of savoury
herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice; salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Choose fine tender beef, but not too fat; lay it in a dish; rub
in the sugar, salt, and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle for a
week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it, remove
all the gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part, and sprinkle it
thickly with parsley, herbs, spice, and seasoning in the above
proportion, taking care that the former are finely minced, and the
latter well pounded. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible,
in the same shape as shown in the engraving; bind it firmly with broad
tape, and boil it gently for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out of
the pot, put it under a good weight, without undoing it, and let it
remain until cold. This dish is a very nice addition to the
breakfast-table.

_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 4s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool,
and regularly rubbed and turned every day.


BEEF-COLLOPS.

618. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of
gravy (water may be substituted for this), salt and pepper to taste, 1
shalot finely minced, 1/2 pickled walnut, 1 teaspoonful of capers.

_Mode_.--Have the steak cut thin, and divide it in pieces about 3 inches
long; beat these with the blade of a knife, and dredge with flour. Put
them in a frying-pan with the butter, and let them fry for about 3
minutes; then lay them in a small stewpan, and pour over them the gravy.
Add a piece of butter, kneaded with a little flour, put in the seasoning
and all the other ingredients, and let the whole simmer, but not boil,
for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot covered dish.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


MINCED COLLOPS (an Entree).

619. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of rump-steak, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz.
of butter, 1 onion minced, 1/4 pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of
Harvey's sauce, or lemon-juice, or mushroom ketchup; 1 small bunch of
savoury herbs.

_Mode_.--Mince the beef and onion very small, and fry the latter in
butter until of a pale brown. Put all the ingredients together in a
stewpan, and boil gently for about 10 minutes; garnish with sippets of
toasted bread, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


CURRIED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).

620. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or boiled
beef, 3 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 wineglassful of beer, 1
dessertspoonful of curry powder.

_Mode_.--Cut up the beef into pieces about 1 inch square, put the butter
into a stewpan with the onions sliced, and fry them of a lightly-brown
colour. Add all the other ingredients, and stir gently over a brisk fire
for about 10 minutes. Should this be thought too dry, more beer, or a
spoonful or two of gravy or water, may be added; but a good curry should
not be very thin. Place it in a deep dish, with an edging of dry boiled
rice, in the same manner as for other curries.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_ in winter.


TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPING.

I.

621. Good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting everything
except game and poultry, and, when well clarified, serves for frying
nearly as well as lard; it should be kept in a cool place, and will
remain good some time. To clarify it, put the dripping into a basin,
pour over it boiling water, and keep stirring the whole to wash away the
impurities. Let it stand to cool, when the water and dirty sediment will
settle at the bottom of the basin. Remove the dripping, and put it away
in jars or basins for use.


ANOTHER WAY.

622. Put the dripping into a clean saucepan, and let it boil for a few
minutes over a slow fire, and be careful to skim it well. Let it stand
to cool a little, then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars for
use. Beef dripping is preferable to any other for cooking purposes, as,
with mutton dripping, there is liable to be a tallowy taste and smell.


ROAST FILLET OF BEEF (Larded).

623. INGREDIENTS.--About 4 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin, 1
onion, a small bunch of parsley, salt and pepper to taste, sufficient
vinegar to cover the meat, glaze, Spanish sauce, No. 411.

_Mode_.--Lard the beef with bacon, and put it into a pan with sufficient
vinegar to cover it, with an onion sliced, parsley, and seasoning, and
let it remain in this pickle for 12 hours. Roast it before a nice clear
fire for about 1-1/4 hour, and, when done, glaze it. Pour some Spanish
sauce round the beef, and the remainder serve in a tureen. It may be
garnished with Spanish onions boiled and glazed.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the sauce, 4s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


FRICANDEAU OF BEEF.

624. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin (a
piece of the rump may be substituted for this), pepper and salt to
taste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 whole allspice, 1 pint of stock No.
105, or water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 2 shalots,
bacon.

_Mode_.--Cut some bacon into thin strips, and sprinkle over them a
seasoning of pepper and salt, mixed with cloves, mace, and allspice,
well pounded. Lard the beef with these, put it into a stewpan with the
stock or water, sherry, herbs, shalots, 2 cloves, and more pepper and
salt. Stew the meat gently until tender, when take it out, cover it
closely, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and strain it. Set it on
the fire, and boil, till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded side of
the beef with this, and serve on sorrel sauce, which is made as
follows:--Wash and pick some sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with only
the water that hangs about it. Keep stirring, to prevent its burning,
and when done, lay it in a sieve to drain. Chop it, and stew it with a
small piece of butter and 4 or 6 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, for an
hour, and rub it through a tammy. If too acid, add a little sugar; and a
little cabbage-lettuce boiled with the sorrel will be found an
improvement.

_Time_.--2 hours to gently stew the meat.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 4s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


FRIED SALT BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).

625. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold salt beef, pepper to taste, 1/4
lb. of butter, mashed potatoes.

_Mode_.--Cut any part of cold salt beef into thin slices, fry them
gently in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have ready some very
hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them, and garnish with 3
or 4 pickled gherkins. Cold salt beef, warmed in a little liquor from
mixed pickle, drained, and served as above, will be found good.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


FRIED RUMP-STEAK.

626. INGREDIENTS.--Steaks, butter or clarified dripping.

_Mode_. Although broiling is a far superior method of cooking steaks to
frying them, yet, when the cook is not very expert, the latter mode may
be adopted; and, when properly done, the dish may really look very
inviting, and the flavour be good. The steaks should be cut rather
thinner than for broiling, and with a small quantity of fat to each. Put
some butter or clarified dripping into a frying-pan; let it get quite
hot, then lay in the steaks. Turn them frequently until done, which will
be in about 8 minutes, or rather more, should the steaks be very thick.
Serve on a very hot dish, in which put a small piece of butter and a
tablespoonful of ketchup, and season with pepper and salt. They should
be sent to table quickly, as, when cold, the steaks are entirely
spoiled.

_Time_.--8 minutes for a medium-sized steak, rather longer for a very
thick one.

_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Seasonable all the year, but not good in summer, as the meat cannot
hang to get tender._

_Note_.--Where much gravy is liked, make it in the following manner:--As
soon as the steaks are done, dish them, pour a little boiling water into
the frying-pan, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, a small piece of
butter, and a tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup. Hold
the pan over the fire for a minute or two, just let the gravy simmer,
then pour on the steak, and serve.

    A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF BEEF. The following is translated from
    a celebrated modern French work, the production of one who in
    Paris enjoys a great reputation as cook and chemist:--The flesh
    of the ox, to be in the best condition, should be taken from an
    animal of from four to six years old, and neither too fat nor
    too lean. This meat, which possesses in the highest degree the
    most nutritive qualities, is generally easily digested; stock is
    made from it, and it is eaten boiled, broiled, roasted, stewed,
    braised, and in a hundred other different ways. Beef is the
    foundation of stock, gravies, braises, &c.; its nutritious and
    succulent gravy gives body and flavour to numberless ragoûts. It
    is an exhaustless mine in the hands of a skilful artist, and is
    truly the king of the kitchen. Without it, no soup, no gravy;
    and its absence would produce almost a famine in the civilized
    world!

BEEF FRITTERS (Cold Meat Cookery).

627. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef, pepper and salt to
taste, 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites
of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Mix very smoothly, and by degrees, the flour with the above
proportion of water; stir in 2 oz. of butter, which must be melted, but
not oiled, and, just before it is to be used, add the whites of two
well-whisked eggs. Should the batter be too thick, more water must be
added. Pare down the cold beef into thin shreds, season with pepper and
salt, and mix it with the batter. Drop a small quantity at a time into a
pan of boiling lard, and fry from 7 to 10 minutes, according to the
size. When done on one side, turn and brown them on the other. Let them
dry for a minute or two before the fire, and serve on a folded napkin. A
small quantity of finely-minced onions, mixed with the batter, is an
improvement.

_Time_.--From 7 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. _Seasonable_ at any time.


HASHED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).

I.

628. INGREDIENTS.--Gravy saved from the meat, 1 teaspoonful of tomato
sauce, 1 teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of good mushroom
ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine or strong ale, pepper and salt to taste,
a little flour to thicken, 1 onion finely minced, a few slices of cold
roast beef.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients but the beef into a stewpan with
whatever gravy may have been saved from the meat the day it was roasted;
let these simmer gently for 10 minutes, then take the stewpan off the
fire; let the gravy cool, and skim off the fat. Cut the beef into thin
slices, dredge them with flour, and lay them in the gravy; let the whole
simmer gently for 5 minutes, but not boil, or the meat will be tough and
hard. Serve very hot, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


II.

629. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 onions, 1
carrot, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 blade of
pounded mace, thickening of flour, rather more than 1 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Take off all the meat from the bones of ribs or sirloin of
beef; remove the outside brown and gristle; place the meat on one side,
and well stew the bones and pieces, with the above ingredients, for
about 2 hours, till it becomes a strong gravy, and is reduced to rather
more than 1/2 pint; strain this, thicken with a teaspoonful of flour,
and let the gravy cool; skim off all the fat; lay in the meat, let it
get hot through, but do not allow it to boil, and garnish with sippets
of toasted bread. The gravy may be flavoured as in the preceding recipe.

_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 2d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Either of the above recipes may be served in walls of mashed
potatoes browned; in which case the sippets should be omitted. Be
careful that hashed meat does not boil, or it will become tough.


TO PREPARE HUNG BEEF.

630. This is preserved by salting and drying, either with or without
smoke. Hang up the beef 3 or 4 days, till it becomes tender, but take
care it does not begin to spoil; then salt it in the usual way, either
by dry-salting or by brine, with bay-salt, brown sugar, saltpetre, and a
little pepper and allspice; afterwards roll it tight in a cloth, and
hang it up in a warm, but not hot place, for a fortnight or more, till
it is sufficiently hard. If required to have a little of the smoky
flavour, it may be hung for some time in a chimney-corner, or smoked in
any other way: it will keep a long time.


HUNTER'S BEEF.

631. INGREDIENTS.--For a round of beef weighing 25 lbs. allow 3 oz. of
saltpetre, 3 oz. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 1/2
oz. of allspice, 1 lb. of salt, 1/2 lb. bay-salt.

_Mode_.--Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, and remove the bone. Pound
spices, salt, &c. in the above proportion, and let them be reduced to
the finest powder. Put the beef into a pan, rub all the ingredients well
into it, and turn and rub it every day for rather more than a fortnight.
When it has been sufficiently long in pickle, wash the meat, bind it up
securely with tape, and put it into a pan with 1/2 pint of water at the
bottom; mince some suet, cover the top of the meat with it, and over the
pan put a common crust of flour and water; bake for 6 hours, and, when
cold, remove the paste. Save the gravy that flows from it, as it adds
greatly to the flavour of hashes, stews, &c. The beef may be glazed and
garnished with meat jelly.

_Time_.--6 hours.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Note_.--In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it
not being generally required to be kept for a great length of time, a
less quantity of salt and a larger quantity of other matters more
adapted to retain mellowness in meat, may be employed, which could not
be adopted by the curer of the immense quantities of meat required to be
preserved for victualling the shipping of this maritime country. Sugar,
which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a very great
degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, and is,
very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consumption.
Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of meat,
as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not impair
its mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative
effect, without the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a
flavour not agreeable to the taste of many persons. It may be used,
however, together with salt, with the greatest advantage in imparting
mildness and mellowness to cured meat, in a proportion of about one part
by weight to four of the mixture; and, perhaps, now that sugar is so
much lower in price than it was in former years, one of the obstructions
to its more frequent use is removed.


TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY.

I.

632. INGREDIENTS.--1 kidney, clarified butter, pepper and salt to taste,
a small quantity of highly-seasoned gravy, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

_Mode_.--Cut the kidneys into neat slices, put them into warm water to
soak for 2 hours, and change the water 2 or 3 times; then put them on a
clean cloth to dry the water from them, and lay them in a frying-pan
with some clarified butter, and fry them of a nice brown; season each
side with pepper and salt, put them round the dish, and the gravy in the
middle. Before pouring the gravy in the dish, add the lemon-juice and
sugar.

_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. each.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


II.

633. INGREDIENTS.--1 kidney, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 1
teaspoonful of minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of
gravy, No. 438, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry.

_Mode_.--Take off a little of the kidney fat, mince it very fine, and
put it in a frying-pan; slice the kidney, sprinkle over it parsley and
shalots in the above proportion, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and
fry it of a nice brown. When it is done enough, dredge over a little
flour, and pour in the gravy and sherry. Let it just simmer, but not
boil any more, or the kidney would harden; serve very hot, and garnish
with croûtons. Where the flavour of the shalot is disliked, it may be
omitted, and a small quantity of savoury herbs substituted for it.
_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the slices.

_Average cost_, 9d. each. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


III.

_A more Simple Method_.

634. Cut the kidney into thin slices, flour them, and fry of a nice
brown. When done, make a gravy in the pan by pouring away the fat,
putting in a small piece of butter, 1/4 pint of boiling water, pepper
and salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Let the gravy just
boil up, pour over the kidney, and serve.

BOILED MARROW-BONES.

635. INGREDIENTS.--Bones, a small piece of common paste, a floured
cloth.

_Mode_.--Have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes, and cover
the ends with a small piece of common crust, made with flour and water.
Over this tie a floured cloth, and place them upright in a saucepan of
boiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover the bones. Boil
them for 2 hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve them upright on
a napkin with dry toast. Many persons clear the marrow from the bones
after they are cooked, spread it over a slice of toast and add a
seasoning of pepper; when served in this manner, it must be very
expeditiously sent to table, as it so soon gets cold.

_Time_.--2 hours.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Marrow-bones may be baked after preparing them as in the
preceding recipe; they should be laid in a deep dish, and baked for 2
hours.

[Illustration: MARROW-BONES.]

    MARROW-BONES.--Bones are formed of a dense cellular tissue of
    membranous matter, made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy
    salts; of which, phosphate of lime is the most abundant. In a
    large bone, the insoluble matter is generally deposited in such
    a manner as to leave a cavity, into which a fatty substance,
    distinguished by the name of marrow, is thrown. Hollow
    cylindrical bones possess the qualities of strength and
    lightness in a remarkable degree. If bones were entirely solid,
    they would be unnecessarily heavy; and if their materials were
    brought into smaller compass, they would be weaker, because the
    strength of a bone is in proportion to the distance at which its
    fibres are from the centre. Some animals, it must, however, be
    observed, have no cavities in the centre of their bones; such as
    the whale tribe, skate, and turtles.

MINCED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).

636. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of butter, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of
gravy left from the meat, 1 tablespoonful of strong ale, 1/2 a
teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of lean
roast beef.

_Mode_.--Put into a stewpan the butter with an onion chopped fine; add
the gravy, ale, and 1/2 a teaspoonful of flour to thicken; season with
pepper and salt, and stir these ingredients over the fire until the
onion is a rich brown. Cut, but do not chop the meat _very fine_, add it
to the gravy, stir till quite hot, and serve. Garnish with sippets of
toasted bread. Be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after the
meat is added, as it would render it hard and tough.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 3d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


MIROTON OF BEEF.

637. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast beef, 3 oz. of butter,
salt and pepper to taste, 3 onions, 1/2 pint of gravy.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions and put them into a frying-pan with the cold
beef and butter; place it over the fire, and keep turning and stirring
the ingredients to prevent them burning. When of a pale brown, add the
gravy and seasoning; let it simmer for a few minutes, and serve very
hot. This dish is excellent and economical.

_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


STEWED OX-CHEEK.

638. INGREDIENTS.--1 cheek, salt and water, 4 or 5 onions, butter and
flour, 6 cloves, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 head of celery, 1
bunch of savoury herbs, cayenne, black pepper and salt to taste, 1 oz.
of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili
vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of port
wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce.

_Mode_.--Have the cheek boned, and prepare it the day before it is to be
eaten, by cleaning and putting it to soak all night in salt and water.
The next day, wipe it dry and clean, and put it into a stewpan. Just
cover it with water, skim well when it boils, and let it gently simmer
till the meat is quite tender. Slice and fry 3 onions in a little butter
and flour, and put them into the gravy; add 2 whole onions, each stuck
with 3 cloves, 3 turnips quartered, 2 carrots sliced, a bay-leaf, 1 head
of celery, a bunch of herbs, and seasoning to taste of cayenne, black
pepper, and salt. Let these stew till perfectly tender; then take out
the cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at table, skim and strain the
gravy, and thicken 1-1/2 pint of it with butter and flour in the above
proportions. Add the vinegar, ketchup, and port wine; put in the pieces
of cheek; let the whole boil up, and serve quite hot. Send it to table
in a ragout-dish. If the colour of the gravy should not be very good,
add a tablespoonful of the browning, No. 108.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


FRIED OX-FEET, or COW-HEEL.

639. INGREDIENTS.--Ox-feet, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, parsley,
salt and cayenne to taste, boiling butter.

_Mode_.--Wash, scald, and thoroughly clean the feet, and cut them into
pieces about 2 inches long; have ready some fine bread crumbs mixed with
a little minced parsley, cayenne, and salt; dip the pieces of heel into
the yolk of egg, sprinkle them with the bread crumbs, and fry them until
of a nice brown in boiling butter.

_Time_.-1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. each.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

Note.--Ox-feet may be dressed in various ways, stowed in gravy or
plainly boiled and served with melted butter. When plainly boiled, the
liquor will answer for making sweet or relishing jellies, and also to
give richness to soups or gravies.


STEWED OX-TAILS.

640. INGREDIENTS.--2 ox-tails, 1 onion, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1
teaspoonful of whole black pepper, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 a
teaspoonful of salt, a small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of
butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of
mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Divide the tails at the joints, wash, and put them into a
stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and set them on the fire;
when the water boils, remove the scum, and add the onion cut into rings,
the spice, seasoning, and herbs. Cover the stewpan closely, and let the
tails simmer very gently until tender, which will be in about 2-1/2
hours. Take them out, make a thickening of butter and flour, add it to
the gravy, and let it boil for 1/4 hour. Strain it through a sieve into
a saucepan, put back the tails, add the lemon-juice and ketchup; let the
whole just boil up, and serve. Garnish with croûtons or sippets of
toasted bread.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to stew the tails.

_Average cost_, 9d. to 1s. 6d., according to the season.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

    THE TAILS OF ANIMALS.--In the class Mammalia, the vertebral
    column or backbone presents only slight modifications, and
    everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man, who stands
    at the head of this division of the animal kingdom. The length
    of this column, however, varies much, and the number of
    vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform.
    These numerical differences principally depend on the unequal
    development of the caudal portion, or tail-end, of the column.
    Thus, the tail-forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at
    all,--amongst certain bats for example; in other instances we
    reckon forty, fifty, and even upwards of sixty of these bones.
    Among the greater number of mammals, the tail is of little use
    for locomotion, except that it acts in many cases as does the
    rudder of a ship, steadying the animal in his rapid movements,
    and enabling him to turn more easily and quickly. Among some
    animals, it becomes a very powerful instrument of progression.
    Thus, in the kangaroos and jerboas, the tail forms, with the
    hind feet, a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its
    spring. With most of the American monkeys it is prehensile, and
    serves the animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the
    branches of trees; and, lastly, among the whales, it grows to an
    enormous size, and becomes the principal instrument for
    swimming.

A PICKLE FOR TONGUES OR BEEF (Newmarket Recipe).

641. INGREDIENTS.--1 gallon of soft water, 3 lbs. of coarse salt, 6 oz.
of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 oz. of saltpetre.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and let them boil for
1/2 hour, clear off the scum as it rises, and when done pour the pickle
into a pickling-pan. Let it get cold, then put in the meat, and allow it
to remain in the pickle from 8 to 14 days, according to the size. It
will keep good for 6 months if well boiled once a fortnight. Tongues
will take 1 month or 6 weeks to be properly cured; and, in salting meat,
beef and tongues should always be put in separate vessels.

_Time_.--A moderate-sized tongue should remain in the pickle about a
month, and be turned every day.

[Illustration: POTTING-JAR.]

POTTED BEEF.

I.

642. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of lean beef, 1 tablespoonful of water, 1/4
lb. of butter, a seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and
black pepper.


_Mode_.--Procure a nice piece of lean beef, as free as possible from
gristle, skin, &c., and put it into a jar (if at hand, one with a lid)
with 1 tablespoonful of water. Cover it _closely_, and put the jar into
a saucepan of boiling water, letting the water come within 2 inches of
the top of the jar. Boil gently for 3-1/2 hours, then take the beef,
chop it very small with a chopping-knife, and pound it thoroughly in a
mortar. Mix with it by degrees all, or a portion, of the gravy that will
have run from it, and a little clarified butter; add the seasoning, put
it in small pots for use, and cover with a little butter just warmed and
poured over. If much gravy is added to it, it will keep but a short
time; on the contrary, if a large proportion of butter is used, it may
be preserved for some time.

_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


POTTED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).

II.

643. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, 1/4 lb. of
butter, cayenne to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace.

_Mode_.--As we have stated in recipe No. 608, the outside slices of
boiled beef may, with a little trouble, be converted into a very nice
addition to the breakfast-table. Cut up the meat into small pieces and
pound it well, with a little butter, in a mortar; add a seasoning of
cayenne and mace, and be very particular that the latter ingredient is
reduced to the finest powder. When all the ingredients are thoroughly
mixed, put it into glass or earthen potting-pots, and pour on the top a
coating of clarified butter.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--If cold roast beef is used, remove all pieces of gristle and
dry outside pieces, as these do not pound well.

    PRESERVED MEATS.--When an organic substance, like the flesh of
    animals, is heated to the boiling-point, it loses the property
    of passing into a state of fermentation and decay. Fresh animal
    milk, as is well known, coagulates, after having been kept for
    two or three days, into a gelatinous mass; but it may be
    preserved for an indefinite period, as a perfectly sweet liquid,
    if it be heated daily to the boiling-point. The knowledge of
    this effect of an elevated temperature has given rise to a most
    important branch of industry,--namely, the preparation of
    preserved meats for the use of the navy and merchant service. At
    Leith, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, at Aberdeen, at
    Bordeaux, at Marseilles, and in many parts of Germany,
    establishments of enormous magnitude exist, in which soup,
    vegetables, and viands of every description are prepared, in
    such a manner that they retain their freshness for years. The
    prepared aliments are inclosed in canisters of tinned iron
    plate, the covers are soldered air-tight, and the canisters
    exposed to the temperature of boiling water for three or four
    hours. The aliments thus acquire a stability, which one may
    almost say is eternal; and when a canister is opened, after the
    lapse of several years, its contents are found to be unaltered
    in taste, colour, and smell. We are indebted to the French
    philosopher Gay-Lussac for this beautiful practical application
    of the discovery that boiling checks fermentation. An exclusive
    salt-meat diet is extremely injurious to the health; and, in
    former times, thousands of mariners lost their lives for the
    want of fresh aliments during long voyages. We are sorry to say
    that the preserved meats are sometimes carelessly prepared, and,
    though the statement seems incredible, sometimes adulterated.
    Dr. Lankester, who has done so much to expose the frauds of
    trade, that he ought to be regarded as a public benefactor, says
    that he has seen things which were utterly unfit for food,
    shipped as preserved meats. Surely, as he observes, there ought
    to be some superintendent to examine the so-called articles of
    food that are taken on board ship, so that the poor men who have
    been fighting our battles abroad may run no risk of being
    starved or poisoned on their way home.

RIB OF BEEF BONES.

(_A Pretty Dish_.)

644. INGREDIENTS.--Rib of beef bones, 1 onion chopped fine, a few slices
of carrot and turnip, 1/4 pint of gravy.

_Mode_.--The bones for this dish should have left on them a slight
covering of meat; saw them into pieces 3 inches long; season them with
pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with the remaining
ingredients. Stew gently, until the vegetables are tender, and serve on
a flat dish within walls of mashed potatoes.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the bones, 2d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BEEF RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).

645. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of meat
allow 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a few chopped
savoury herbs, 1/2 a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 or 2 eggs,
according to the quantity of meat.

_Mode_.--Mince the beef very fine, which should be rather lean, and mix
with this bread crumbs, herbs, seasoning, and lemon-peel, in the above
proportion, to each pound of meat. Make all into a thick paste with 1 or
2 eggs; divide into balls or cones, and fry a rich brown. Garnish the
dish with fried parsley, and send with them to table some good brown
gravy in a tureen. Instead of garnishing with fried parsley, gravy may
be poured in the dish, round the rissoles: in this case, it will not be
necessary to send any in a tureen.

_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 5d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


ROLLED BEEF, to eat like Hare.

646. INGREDIENTS.--About 5 lbs. of the inside of the sirloin, 2 glasses
of port wine, 2 glasses of vinegar, a small quantity of forcemeat (No.
417), 1 teaspoonful of pounded allspice.

_Mode_.--Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in 1 glass of port
wine and 1 glass of vinegar, mixed, and let it remain for 2 days. Make a
forcemeat by recipe No. 417, lay it on the meat, and bind it up
securely. Roast it before a nice clear fire, and baste it with 1 glass
each of port wine and vinegar, with which mix a teaspoonful of pounded
allspice. Serve, with a good gravy in the dish, and send red-currant
jelly to table with it.

_Time_.--A piece of 5 lbs. about 1-1/2 hour before a brisk fire.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BEEF ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).

647. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, seasoning
to taste of salt, pepper, and minced herbs; puff paste.

_Mode_.--Mince the beef tolerably fine with a small amount of its own
fat; add a seasoning of pepper, salt, and chopped herbs; put the whole
into a roll of puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather longer,
should the roll be very large. Beef patties may be made of cold meat, by
mincing and seasoning beef as directed above, and baking in a rich puff
paste in patty-tins.

_Time_,--1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF. (_An Excellent Dish for a Small Family_.)

648. INGREDIENTS.--From 5 to 10 lbs. of rib of beef, sufficient brine to
cover the meat.

_Mode_.--Choose a fine rib, have the bone removed, rub some salt over
the inside, and skewer the meat up into a nice round form, and bind it
with tape. Put it into sufficient brine to cover it (the brine should be
made by recipe No. 654), and let it remain for 6 days, turning the meat
every day. When required to be dressed, drain from the pickle, and put
the meat into very hot water; let it boil rapidly for a few minutes,
when draw the pot to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently
until done. Remove the skewer, and replace it by a plated or silver one.
Carrots and turnips should be served with this dish, and may be boiled
with the meat.

_Time_.--A small round of 8 lbs., about 2 hours after the water boils;
one of 12 lbs., about 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Should the joint be very small, 4 or 5 days will be sufficient
time to salt it.


BRISKET OF BEEF, a la Flamande.

649. INGREDIENTS.--About 6 or 8 lbs. of the brisket of beef, 4 or 5
slices of bacon, 2 carrots, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and
pepper to taste, 4 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 2 blades of mace.

_Mode_.--Choose that portion of the brisket which contains the gristle,
trim it, and put it into a stewpan with the slices of bacon, which
should be put under and over the meat. Add the vegetables, herbs,
spices, and seasoning, and cover with a little weak stock or water;
close the stewpan as hermetically as possible, and simmer very gently
for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, reserve a portion of it for sauce, and
the remainder boil quickly over a sharp fire until reduced to a glaze,
with which glaze the meat. Garnish the dish with scooped carrots and
turnips, and when liked, a little cabbage; all of which must be cooked
separately. Thicken and flavour the liquor that was saved for sauce,
pour it round the meat, and serve. The beef may also be garnished with
glazed onions, artichoke-bottoms, &c.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    FRENCH BEEF.--It has been all but universally admitted, that the
    beef of France is greatly inferior in quality to that of
    England, owing to inferiority of pasturage. M. Curmer, however,
    one of the latest writers on the culinary art, tells us that
    this is a vulgar error, and that French beef is far superior to
    that of England. This is mere vaunting on the part of our
    neighbours, who seem to want _la gloire_ in everything; and we
    should not deign to notice it, if it had occurred in a work of
    small pretensions; but M. Curmer's book professes to be a
    complete exposition of the scientific principles of cookery, and
    holds a high rank in the didactic literature of France. We half
    suspect that M. Curmer obtained his knowledge of English beef in
    the same way as did the poor Frenchman, whom the late Mr.
    Mathews, the comedian, so humorously described. Mr. Lewis, in
    his "Physiology of Common Life," has thus revived the story of
    the beef-eating son of France:--"A Frenchman was one day blandly
    remonstrating against the supercilious scorn expressed by
    Englishmen for the beef of France, which he, for his part, did
    not find so inferior to that of England. 'I have been two times
    in England,' he remarked, but I nevère find the bif so supérieur
    to ours. I find it vary conveenient that they bring it you on
    leetle pieces of stick, for one penny: but I do not find the bif
    supérieur.' On hearing this, the Englishman, red with
    astonishment, exclaimed, 'Good heavens, sir! you have been
    eating cat's meat.'" No, M. Curmer, we are ready to acknowledge
    the superiority of your cookery, but we have long since made up
    our minds as to the inferiority of your raw material.

BEEF OLIVES.

I.

650. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of
minced savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of stock, No.
105, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 2 tablespoonfuls of any store sauce, a
slight thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut rather thin, slightly beat them to make
them level, cut them into 6 or 7 pieces, brush over with egg, and
sprinkle with herbs, which should be very finely minced; season with
pepper and salt, and roll up the pieces tightly, and fasten with a small
skewer. Put the stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them, for by
being pressed together, they will keep their shape better; lay in the
rolls of meat, cover them with the bacon, cut in thin slices, and over
that put a piece of paper. Stew them very _gently_ for full 2 hours; for
the slower they are done the better. Take them out, remove the skewers,
thicken the gravy with butter and flour, and flavour with any store
sauce that may be preferred. Give one boil, pour over the meat, and
serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per pound.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


II.

(_Economical_.)

651. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of underdone cold roast beef, bread
crumbs, 1 shalot finely minced, pepper and salt to taste, gravy made
from the beef bones, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of
mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut some slices of underdone roast beef about half an inch
thick; sprinkle over them some bread crumbs, minced shalot, and a little
of the fat and seasoning; roll them, and fasten with a small skewer.
Have ready some gravy made from the beef bones; put in the pieces of
meat, and stew them till tender, which will be in about 1-1/4 hour, or
rather longer. Arrange the meat in a dish, thicken and flavour the
gravy, and pour it over the meat, when it is ready to serve.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the beef, 2d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BROILED OX-TAIL (an Entree).

652. INGREDIENTS.--2 tails, 1-1/2 pint of stock, No. 105, salt and
cayenne to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Joint and cut up the tails into convenient-sized pieces, and
put them into a stewpan, with the stock, cayenne, and salt, and, if
liked very savoury, a bunch of sweet herbs. Let them simmer gently for
about 2-1/2 hours; then take them out, drain them, and let them cool.
Beat an egg upon a plate; dip in each piece of tail, and, afterwards,
throw them into a dish of bread crumbs; broil them over a clear fire,
until of a brownish colour on both sides, and serve with a good gravy,
or any sauce that may be preferred.

_Time_.--About 2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, from 9d. to 1s. 6d.,
according to the season.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--These may be more easily prepared by putting the tails in a
brisk oven, after they have been dipped in egg and bread-crumb; and,
when brown, they are done. They must be boiled the same time as for
broiling.

    STRANGE TAILS.--Naturalists cannot explain the uses of some of
    the strange tails borne by animals. In the Egyptian and Syrian
    sheep, for instance, the tail grows so large, that it is not
    infrequently supported upon a sort of little cart, in order to
    prevent inconvenience to the animal. Thin monstrous appendage
    sometimes attains a weight of seventy, eighty, or even a hundred
    pounds.

TO DRESS BEEF PALATES (an Entree).

653. INGREDIENTS.--4 palates, sufficient gravy to cover them (No. 438),
cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful
of pickled-onion liquor, thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Wash the palates, and put them into a stewpan, with sufficient
water to cover them, and let them boil until perfectly tender, or until
the upper skin may be easily peeled off. Have ready sufficient gravy
(No. 438) to cover them; add a good seasoning of cayenne, and thicken
with roux, No. 625, or a little butter kneaded with flour; let it boil
up, and skim. Cut the palates into square pieces, put them in the gravy,
and let them simmer gently for 1/2 hour; add ketchup and onion-liquor,
give one boil, and serve.

_Time_.--From 3 to 5 hours to boil the palates.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Palates may be dressed in various ways with sauce tournée, good
onion sauce, tomato sauce, and also served in a vol-au-vent; but the
above will be found a more simple method of dressing them.


BEEF PICKLE, which may also be used for any kind of Meat, Tongues, or
Hams.

654. INGREDIENTS.--6 lbs. of salt, 2 lbs. of fine sugar, 3 oz. of
powdered saltpetre, 3 gallons of spring water.

_Mode_.--Boil all the ingredients gently together, so long as any scum
or impurity arises, which carefully remove; when quite cold, pour it
over the meat, every part of which must be covered with the brine. This
may be used for pickling any kind of meat, and may be kept for some
time, if boiled up occasionally with an addition of the ingredients.

_Time_.--A ham should be kept in the pickle for a fortnight; a piece of
beef weighing 14 lbs., 12 or 15 days; a tongue, 10 days or a fortnight.

_Note_.--For salting and pickling meat, it is a good plan to rub in only
half the quantity of salt directed, and to let it remain for a day or
two to disgorge and effectually to get rid of the blood and slime; then
rub in the remainder of the salt and other ingredients, and proceed as
above. This rule may be applied to all the recipes we have given for
salting and pickling meat.


TO PICKLE PART OF A ROUND OF BEEF FOR HANGING.

655. INGREDIENTS.--For 14 lbs. of a round of beef allow 1-1/2 lb. of
salt, 1/2 oz. of powdered saltpetre; or, 1 lb. of salt, 1/2 lb. of
sugar, 4 oz. of powdered saltpetre.

_Mode_.--Rub in, and sprinkle either of the above mixtures on 14 lbs. of
meat. Keep it in an earthenware pan, or a deep wooden tray, and turn
twice a week during 3 weeks; then bind up the beef tightly with coarse
linen tape, and hang it in a kitchen in which a fire is constantly kept,
for 3 weeks. Pork, hams, and bacon may be cured in a similar way, but
will require double the quantity of the salting mixture; and, if not
smoke-dried, they should be taken down from hanging after 3 or 4 weeks,
and afterwards kept in boxes or tubs, amongst dry oat-husks.

_Time_.--2 or 3 weeks to remain in the brine; to be hung 3 weeks.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The meat may be boiled fresh from this pickle, instead of
smoking it.


BEEP RAGOUT (Cold Meat Cookery).

656. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 6 onions, pepper,
salt, and mixed spices to taste; 1/2 pint of boiling water, 3
tablespoonfuls of gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut the beef into rather large pieces, and put them into a
stewpan with the onions, which must be sliced. Season well with pepper,
salt, and mixed spices, and pour over about 1/2 pint of boiling water,
and gravy in the above proportion (gravy saved from the meat answers the
purpose); let the whole stew very gently for about 2 hours, and serve
with pickled walnuts, gherkins, or capers, just warmed in the gravy.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


ROAST RIBS OF BEEF.

657. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, a little salt.

_Mode_.---The fore-rib is considered the primest roasting piece, but the
middle-rib is considered the most economical. Let the meat be well hung
(should the weather permit), and cut off the thin ends of the bones,
which should be salted for a few days, and then boiled. Put the meat
down to a nice clear fire, put some clean dripping into the pan, dredge
the joint with a little flour, and keep continually basting the whole
time. Sprinkle some fine salt over it (this must never be done until the
joint is dished, as it draws the juices from the meat); pour the
dripping from the pan, put in a little boiling: water slightly salted,
and _strain_ the gravy over the meat. Garnish with tufts of scraped
horseradish, and send horseradish sauce to table with it (_see_ No.
447). A Yorkshire pudding (_see_ Puddings) sometimes accompanies this
dish, and, if lightly made and well cooked, will be found a very
agreeable addition.

_Time_.--10 lbs. of beef, 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., from 3-1/2 to 4
hours.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--A joint of 10 lbs. sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    MEMORANDA IN ROASTING.--The management of the fire is a point of
    primary importance in roasting. A radiant fire throughout the
    operation is absolutely necessary to insure a good result. When
    the article to be dressed is thin and delicate, the fire may be
    small; but when the joint is large, the fire must fill the
    grate. Meat must never be put down before a hollow or exhausted
    fire, which may soon want recruiting; on the other hand, if the
    heat of the fire becomes too fierce, the meat must be removed to
    a considerable distance till it is somewhat abated. Some cooks
    always fail in their roasts, though they succeed in nearly
    everything else. A French writer on the culinary art says that
    anybody can learn how to cook, but one must be born a roaster.
    According to Liebig, beef or mutton cannot be said to be
    sufficiently roasted until it has acquired, throughout the whole
    mass, a temperature of 158°; but poultry may be well cooked when
    the inner parts have attained a temperature of from 130° to
    140°. This depends on the greater amount of blood which beef and
    mutton contain, the colouring matter of blood not being
    coagulable under 158°.

ROAST RIBS OF BEEF, Boned and Rolled (a very Convenient Joint for a
Small Family).

658. INGREDIENTS.--1 or 2 ribs of beef.

_Mode_.--Choose a fine rib of beef, and have it cut according to the
weight you require, either wide or narrow. Bone and roll the meat round,
secure it with wooden skewers, and, if necessary, bind it round with a
piece of tape. Spit the beef firmly, or, if a bottle-jack is used, put
the joint on the hook, and place it _near_ a nice clear fire. Let it
remain so till the outside of the meat is set, when draw it to a
distance, and keep continually basting until the meat is done, which can
be ascertained by the steam from it drawing towards the fire. As this
joint is solid, rather more than 1/4 hour must be allowed for each lb.
Remove the skewers, put in a plated or silver one, and send the joint to
table with gravy in the dish, and garnish with tufts of horseradish.
Horseradish sauce, No. 447, is a great improvement to roast beef.

_Time_.--For 10 lbs. of the rolled ribs, 3 hours (as the joint is very
solid, we have allowed an extra 1/2 hour); for 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.

Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--A joint of 10 lbs. for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Note_.--When the weight exceeds 10 lbs., we would not advise the above
method of boning and rolling; only in the case of 1 or 2 ribs, when the
joint cannot stand upright in the dish, and would look awkward. The
bones should be put in with a few vegetables and herbs, and made into
stock.

    ROAST BEEF has long been a national dish in England. In most of
    our patriotic songs it is contrasted with the fricasseed frogs,
    popularly supposed to be the exclusive diet of Frenchmen.

      "O the roast beef of old England,
      And O the old English roast beef."

    This national chorus is appealed to whenever a song-writer
    wishes to account for the valour displayed by Englishmen at sea
    or on land.

ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

659. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, a little salt.

_Mode_.--As a joint cannot be well roasted without a good fire, see that
it is well made up about 3/4 hour before it is required, so that when
the joint is put down, it is clear and bright. Choose a nice sirloin,
the weight of which should not exceed 16 lbs., as the outside would be
too much done, whilst the inside would not be done enough. Spit it or
hook it on to the jack firmly, dredge it slightly with flour, and place
it near the fire at first, as directed in the preceding recipe. Then
draw it to a distance, and keep continually basting until the meat is
done. Sprinkle a small quantity of salt over it, empty the dripping-pan
of all the dripping, pour in some boiling water slightly salted, stir it
about, and _strain_ over the meat. Garnish with tufts of horseradish,
and send horseradish sauce and Yorkshire pudding to table with it. For
carving, _see_ p. 317.

_Time_.--A sirloin of 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., about 4 or
4-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--A joint of 10 lbs. for 8 or 9 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

The rump, round, and other pieces of beef are roasted in the same
manner, allowing for solid joints; 1/4 hour to every lb.

_Note_.---The above is the usual method of roasting moat; but to have it
in perfection and the juices kept in, the meat should at first be laid
close to the fire, and when the outside is set and firm, drawn away to a
good distance, and then left to roast very slowly; where economy is
studied, this plan would not answer, as the meat requires to be at the
fire double the time of the ordinary way of cooking; consequently,
double the quantity of fuel would be consumed.

    ORIGIN OF THE WORD "SIRLOIN."--The loin of beef is said to have
    been knighted by King Charles II., at Friday Hall, Chingford.
    The "Merry Monarch" returned to this hospitable mansion for
    Epping Forest literally "as hungry as a hunter," and beheld,
    with delight, a huge loin of beef steaming upon the table. "A
    noble joint!" exclaimed the king. "By St. George, it shall have
    a title!" Then drawing his sword, he raised it above the meat,
    and cried, with mock dignity, "Loin, we dub thee knight;
    henceforward be Sir Loin!" This anecdote is doubtless
    apocryphal, although the oak table upon which the joint was
    supposed to have received its knighthood, might have been seen
    by any one who visited Friday-Hill House, a few years ago. It
    is, perhaps, a pity to spoil so noble a story; but the interests
    of truth demand that we declare that _sirloin_ is probably a
    corruption of _surloin_, which signifies the upper part of a
    loin, the prefix _sur_ being equivalent to _over_ or _above_. In
    French we find this joint called _surlonge_, which so closely
    resembles our _sirloin_, that we may safely refer the two words
    to a common origin.

TO SALT BEEF.

660. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 round of beef, 4 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of powdered
saltpetre, 2 oz. of black pepper, 1/4 lb. of bay-salt, 1/2 lb. of common
salt. _Mode_.--Rub the meat well with salt, and let it remain for a day,
to disgorge and clear it from slime. The next day, rub it well with the
above ingredients on every side, and let it remain in the pickle for
about a fortnight, turning it every day. It may be boiled fresh from the
pickle, or smoked.

_Time_.--1/2 round of beef to remain in pickle about a fortnight.
_Average cost_, 7d. per lb. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The aitch-bone, flank, or brisket may be salted and pickled by
any of the recipes we have given for salting beef, allowing less time
for small joints to remain in the pickle; for instance, a joint of 8 or
9 lbs. will be sufficiently salt in about a week.

THE DUTCH WAY TO SALT BEEF.

661. INGREDIENTS.--10 lbs. of lean beef, 1 lb. of treacle, 1 oz. of
saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt.

_Mode_.--Rub the beef well with the treacle, and let it remain for 3
days, turning and rubbing it often; then wipe it, pound the salt and
saltpetre very fine, rub these well in, and turn it every day for 10
days. Roll it up tightly in a coarse cloth, and press it under a large
weight; have it smoked, and turn it upside down every day. Boil it, and,
on taking it out of the pot, put a heavy weight on it to press it.

_Time_.--17 days.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BEEF SAUSAGES.

662. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of suet allow 2 lbs. of lean beef;
seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and mixed spices.

_Mode_.--Clear the suet from skin, and chop that and the beef as finely
as possible; season with pepper, salt, and spices, and mix the whole
well together. Make it into flat cakes, and fry of a nice brown. Many
persons pound the meat in a mortar after it is chopped ( but this is not
necessary when the meat is minced finely.)

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BEEF-STEAK, Rolled, Roasted, and Stuffed.

663. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, forcemeat No. 417, pepper and
salt to taste, clarified butter.

_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut rather thick from a well-hung rump of beef,
and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt. Make a forcemeat
by recipe No. 417; spread it over _half_ of the steak; roll it up, bind
and skewer it firmly, that the forcemeat may not escape, and roast it
before a nice clear fire for about 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer, should
the roll be very large and thick. Keep it constantly basted with butter,
and serve with brown gravy, some of which must be poured round the
steak, and the remainder sent to table in a tureen.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best in winter.


SLICED AND BROILED BEEF--a Pretty Dish (Cold Meat Cookery).

664. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast beef, 4 or 5 potatoes, a
thin batter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Pare the potatoes as you would peel an apple; fry the parings
in a thin batter seasoned with salt and pepper, until they are of a
light brown colour, and place them on a dish over some slices of beef,
which should be nicely seasoned and broiled.

_Time_.--5 minutes to broil the meat.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SPICED BEEF (to Serve Cold).

665. INGREDIENTS.--14 lbs. of the thick flank or rump of beef, 1/2 lb.
of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/4 lb. of pounded allspice, 1 lb.
of common salt.

_Mode_.--Rub the sugar well into the beef, and let it lay for 12 hours;
then rub the saltpetre and allspice, both of which should be pounded,
over the meat, and let it remain for another 12 hours; then rub in the
salt. Turn daily in the liquor for a fortnight, soak it for a few hours
in water, dry with a cloth, cover with a coarse paste, put a little
water at the bottom of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven for 4 hours.
If it is not covered with a paste, be careful to put the beef into a
deep vessel, and cover with a plate, or it will be too crisp. During the
time the meat is in the oven it should be turned once or twice.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    BAKING MEAT.--Baking exerts some unexplained influence on meat,
    rendering it less savoury and less agreeable than meat which has
    been roasted. "Those who have travelled in Germany and France,"
    writes Mr. Lewis, one of our most popular scientific authors,
    "must have repeatedly marvelled at the singular uniformity in
    the flavour, or want of flavour, of the various 'roasts' served
    up at the _table-d'hôte_." The general explanation is, that the
    German and French meat is greatly inferior in quality to that of
    England and Holland, owing to the inferiority of pasturage; and
    doubtless this is one cause, but it is not the chief cause. The
    meat is inferior, but the cooking is mainly at fault. The meat
    is scarcely ever _roasted_, because there is no coal, and
    firewood is expensive. The meat is therefore _baked;_ and the
    consequence of this baking is, that no meat is eatable or eaten,
    with its own gravy, but is always accompanied by some sauce more
    or less piquant. The Germans generally believe that in England
    we eat our beef and mutton almost raw; they shudder at our
    gravy, as if it were so much blood.

STEWED BEEF or RUMP STEAK (an Entree).

666. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of beef or rump steak, 3 onions, 2
turnips, 3 carrots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1
teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 do. of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1
tablespoonful of flour.

_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut tolerably thick and rather lean; divide
them into convenient-sized pieces, and fry them in the butter a nice
brown on both sides. Cleanse and pare the vegetables, cut the onions and
carrots into thin slices, and the turnips into dice, and fry these in
the same fat that the steaks were done in. Put all into a saucepan, add
1/2 pint of water, or rather more should it be necessary, and simmer
very gently for 2-1/2 or 3 hours; when nearly done, skim well, add salt,
pepper, and ketchup in the above proportions, and thicken with a
tablespoonful of flour mixed with 2 of cold water. Let it boil up for a
minute or two after the thickening is added, and serve. When a
vegetable-scoop is at hand, use it to cut the vegetables in fanciful
shapes, and tomato, Harvey's sauce, or walnut-liquor may be used to
flavour the gravy. It is less rich if stewed the previous day, so that
the fat may be taken off when cold; when wanted for table, it will
merely require warming through.

_Time_.--3 hours. Average cost, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


STEWED BEEF AND CELERY SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).

667. INGREDIENTS.--3 roots of celery, 1 pint of gravy, No. 436, 2 onions
sliced, 2 lbs. of cold roast or boiled beef.

_Mode_.--Cut the celery into 2-inch pieces, put them in a stew-pan, with
the gravy and onions, simmer gently until the celery is tender, when add
the beef cut into rather thick pieces; stew gently for 10 minutes, and
serve with fried potatoes.

_Time_.--From 20 to 25 minutes to stew the celery.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from September to January.


STEWED BEEF WITH OYSTERS (Cold Meat Cookery).

668. INGREDIENTS.--A few thick steaks of cold ribs or sirloin of beef, 2
oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 glass of
port wine, a little flour to thicken, 1 or 2 dozen oysters, rather more
than 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the steaks rather thick, from cold sirloin or ribs of beef;
brown them lightly in a stewpan, with the butter and a little water; add
1/2 pint of water, the onion, pepper, and salt, and cover the stewpan
closely, and let it simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; then mix about a
teaspoonful of flour smoothly with a little of the liquor; add the port
wine and oysters, their liquor having been previously strained and put
into the stewpan; stir till the oysters plump, and serve. It should not
boil after the oysters are added, or they will harden.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 4d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.


STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF.

669. INGREDIENTS.--7 lbs. of a brisket of beef, vinegar and salt, 6
carrots, 6 turnips, 6 small onions, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 whole
allspice pounded, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
ketchup; stock, or water.

_Mode_.--About an hour before dressing it, rub the meat over with
vinegar and salt; put it into a stewpan, with sufficient stock to cover
it (when this is not at hand, water may be substituted for it), and be
particular that the stewpan is not much larger than the meat. Skim well,
and when it has simmered very gently for 1 hour, put in the vegetables,
and continue simmering till the meat is perfectly tender. Draw out the
bones, dish the meat, and garnish either with tufts of cauliflower or
braised cabbage cut in quarters. Thicken as much gravy as required, with
a little butter and flour; add spices and ketchup in the above
proportion, give one boil, pour some of it over the meat, and the
remainder send in a tureen.

_Time_.--rather more than 3 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The remainder of the liquor in which the beef was boiled may be
served as a soup, or it may be sent to table with the meat in a tureen.


STEWED RUMP OF BEEF.

670. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 rump of beef, sufficient stock to cover it (No.
105), 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1 large
bunch of savoury herbs, 2 onions, 12 cloves, pepper and salt to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine.

_Mode_.--Cut out the bone, sprinkle the meat with a little cayenne (this
must be sparingly used), and bind and tie it firmly up with tape; put it
into a stewpan with sufficient stock to cover it, and add vinegar,
ketchup, herbs, onions, cloves, and seasoning in the above proportion,
and simmer very gently for 4 or 5 hours, or until the meat is perfectly
tender, which may be ascertained by piercing it with a thin skewer. When
done, remove the tape, lay it into a deep dish, which keep hot; strain
and skim the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add a glass of
port wine and any flavouring to make the gravy rich and palatable; let
it boil up, pour over the meat, and serve. This dish may be very much
enriched by garnishing with forcemeat balls, or filling up the space
whence the bone is taken with a good forcemeat; sliced carrots, turnips,
and onions boiled with the meat, are also a great improvement, and,
where expense is not objected to, it may be glazed. This, however, is
not necessary where a good gravy is poured round and over the meat.

_Time_.--1/2 rump stewed gently from 4 to 5 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 8 or 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--A stock or gravy in which to boil the meat, may be made of the
bone and trimmings, by boiling them with water, and adding carrots,
onions, turnips, and a bunch of sweet herbs. To make this dish richer
and more savoury, half-roast the rump, and afterwards stew it in strong
stock and a little Madeira. This is an expensive method, and is not,
after all, much better than a plainer-dressed joint.

    THE BARON OF BEEF.--This noble joint, which consisted of two
    sirloins not cut asunder, was a favourite dish of our ancestors.
    It is rarely seen nowadays; indeed, it seems out of place on a
    modern table, as it requires the grim boar's head and Christmas
    pie as supporters. Sir Walter Scott has described a feast at
    which the baron of beef would have appeared to great advantage.
    We will quote a few lines to remind us of those days when
    "England was merry England," and when hospitality was thought to
    be the highest virtue.

      "The fire, with well-dried logs supplied,
      Went roaring up the chimney wide;
      The huge hall-table's oaken face,
      Scrubb'd till it shone, the day to grace,
      Bore then, upon its massive board,
      No mark to part the squire and lord.
      Then was brought in the lusty brawn,
      By old blue-coated serving-man;
      Then the grim boar's head frown'd on high,
      Crested with bays and rosemary.
      Well can the green-garb'd ranger tell
      How, when, and where the monster fell;
      What dogs before his death he tore,
      And all the baiting of the boar;
      While round the merry wassel bowl,
      Garnish'd with ribbons, blithe did trowl.
      There the huge sirloin reek'd; hard by
      Plum-porridge stood, and Christmas pie;
      Nor fail'd old Scotland to produce,
      At such high tide, her savoury goose."

    When a lord's son came of age, in the olden time, the baron of
    beef was too small a joint, by many degrees, to satisfy the
    retainers who would flock to the hall; a whole ox was therefore
    generally roasted over a fire built up of huge logs. We may here
    mention, that an ox was roasted entire on the frozen Thames, in
    the early part of the present century.

STEWED SHIN OF BEEF.

671. INGREDIENTS.--A shin of beef, 1 head of celery, 1 onion, a faggot
of savoury herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole
black pepper, 4 carrots, 12 button onions, 2 turnips, thickening of
butter and flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls
of port wine; pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Have the bone sawn into 4 or 5 pieces, cover with hot water,
bring it to a boil, and remove any scum that may rise to the surface.
Put in the celery, onion, herbs, spice, and seasoning, and simmer very
gently until the meat is tender. Peel the vegetables, cut them into any
shape fancy may dictate, and boil them with the onions until tender;
lift out the beef, put it on a dish, which keep hot, and thicken with
butter and flour as much of the liquor as will be wanted for gravy; keep
stirring till it boils, then strain and skim. Put the gravy back in the
stewpan, add the seasoning, port wine, and ketchup, give one boil, and
pour it over the beef; garnish with the boiled carrots, turnips, and
onions.

_Time_.--The meat to be stewed about 4 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per
lb. with bone.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (a Homely but Savoury Dish).

672. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak, 1 sheep's kidney, pepper and
salt to taste. For the batter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls
of flour, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Cut up the steak and kidney into convenient-sized pieces, and
put them into a pie-dish, with a good seasoning of salt and pepper; mix
the flour with a small quantity of milk at first, to prevent its being
lumpy; add the remainder, and the 3 eggs, which should be well beaten;
put in the salt, stir the batter for about 5 minutes, and pour it over
the steak. Place it in a tolerably brisk oven immediately, and bake for
1-1/2 hour.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The remains of cold beef, rather underdone, may be substituted
for the steak, and, when liked, the smallest possible quantity of minced
onion or shalot may be added.


BOILED TONGUE.

673. INGREDIENTS.--1 tongue, a bunch of savoury herbs, water.

_Mode_.--In choosing a tongue, ascertain how long it has been dried or
pickled, and select one with a smooth skin, which denotes its being
young and tender. If a dried one, and rather hard, soak it at least for
12 hours previous to cooking it; if, however, it is fresh from the
pickle, 2 or 3 hours will be sufficient for it to remain in sock. Put
the tongue in a stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of savoury
herbs; let it gradually come to a boil, skim well and simmer very gently
until tender. Peel off the skin, garnish with tufts of cauliflowers or
Brussels sprouts, and serve. Boiled tongue is frequently sent to table
with boiled poultry, instead of ham, and is, by many persons, preferred.
If to serve cold, peel it, fasten it down to a piece of board by
sticking a fork through the root, and another through the top, to
straighten it. When cold, glaze it, and put a paper ruche round the
root, and garnish with tufts of parsley.

_Time_.--A large smoked tongue, 4 to 4-1/2 hours; a small one, 2-1/2 to
3 hours. A large unsmoked tongue, 3 to 3-1/2 hours; a small one, 2 to
2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, for a moderate sized tongue, 3s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TO CURE TONGUES.

I.

674. INGREDIENTS.--For a tongue of 7 lbs., 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/2 oz.
of black pepper, 4 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of juniper berries, 6 oz. of
salt.

_Mode_.--Rub the above ingredients well into the tongue, and let it
remain in the pickle for 10 days or a fortnight; then drain it, tie it
up in brown paper, and have it smoked for about 20 days over a wood
fire; or it may be boiled out of this pickle.

_Time_.--From 10 to 14 days to remain in the pickle; to be smoked 24
days.

_Average cost_, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--If not wanted immediately, the tongue will keep 3 or 4 weeks
without being too salt; then it must not be rubbed, but only turned in
the pickle.


II.

675. INGREDIENTS.--9 lbs. of salt, 8 oz. of sugar, 9 oz. of powdered
saltpetre.

_Mode_.--Rub the above ingredients well into the tongues, and keep them
in this curing mixture for 2 months, turning them every day. Drain them
from the pickle, cover with brown paper, and have them smoked for about
3 weeks.

_Time_.--The tongues to remain in pickle 2 months; to be smoked 3 weeks.

_Sufficient_.--The above quantity of brine sufficient for 12 tongues, of
5 lbs. each.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: BEEF TONGUE.]

    THE TONGUES OF ANIMALS.--The tongue, whether in the ox or in
    man, is the seat of the sense of taste. This sense warns the
    animal against swallowing deleterious substances. Dr. Carpenter
    says, that, among the lower animals, the instinctive perceptions
    connected with this sense, are much more remarkable than our
    own; thus, an omnivorous monkey will seldom touch fruits of a
    poisonous character, although their taste may be agreeable.
    However this may be, man's instinct has decided that ox-tongue
    is better than horse-tongue; nevertheless, the latter is
    frequently substituted by dishonest dealers for the former. The
    horse's tongue may be readily distinguished by a spoon-like
    expansion at its end.

TO PICKLE AND DRESS A TONGUE TO EAT COLD.

676. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of salt, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre,
3 oz. of coarse sugar; cloves, mace, and allspice to taste; butter,
common crust of flour and water.

_Mode_.--Lay the tongue for a fortnight in the above pickle, turn it
every day, and be particular that the spices are well pounded; put it
into a small pan just large enough to hold it, place some pieces of
butter on it, and cover with a common crust. Bake in a slow oven until
so tender that a straw would penetrate it; take off the skin, fasten it
down to a piece of board by running a fork through the root and another
through the tip, at the same time straightening it and putting it into
shape. When cold, glaze it, put a paper ruche round the root, which is
generally very unsightly, and garnish with tufts of parsley.

_Time_.--From 3 or 4 hours in a slow oven, according to size.

_Average cost_, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TO DRESS TRIPE.

677. INGREDIENTS.--Tripe, onion sauce, No. 484, milk and water.

_Mode_.--Ascertain that the tripe is quite fresh, and have it cleaned
and dressed. Cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal proportions
of milk and water for 3/4 hour. Should the tripe be entirely undressed,
more than double that time should be allowed for it. Have ready some
onion sauce made by recipe No. 4S4, dish the tripe, smother it with the
sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.

_Time_.--1 hour: for undressed tripe, from 2-1/2 to 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 7d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Tripe may be dressed in a variety of ways: it may be cut in
pieces and fried in batter, stewed in gravy with mushrooms, or cut into
collops, sprinkled with minced onion and savoury herbs, and fried a nice
brown in clarified butter.


BEEF CARVING.

AITCHBONE OF BEEF.

A boiled aitch-bone of beef is not a difficult joint to carve, as will
be seen on reference to the accompanying engraving. By following with
the knife the direction of the line from 1 to 2, nice slices will be
easily cut. It may be necessary, as in a round of beef, to cut a thick
slice off the outside before commencing to serve.

[Illustration]

BRISKET OF BEEF.

There is but little description necessary to add, to show the carving of
a boiled brisket of beef, beyond the engraving here inserted. The only
point to be observed is, that the joint should be cut evenly and firmly
quite across the bones, so that, on its reappearance at table, it should
not have a jagged and untidy look.

[Illustration]

RIBS OF BEEF.

This dish resembles the sirloin, except that it has no fillet or
undercut. As explained in the recipes, the end piece is often cut off,
salted and boiled. The mode of carving is similar to that of the
sirloin, viz., in the direction of the dotted line from 1 to 2. This
joint will be the more easily cut if the plan be pursued which is
suggested in carving the sirloin; namely, the inserting of the knife
immediately between the bone and the moat, before commencing to cut it
into slices. All joints of roast beef should be cut in even and thin
slices. Horseradish, finely scraped, may be served as a garnish; but
horseradish sauce is preferable for eating with the beef.

[Illustration]

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

This dish is served differently at various tables, some preferring it to
come to table with the fillet, or, as it is usually called, the
undercut, uppermost. The reverse way, as shown in the cut, is that most
usually adopted. Still the undercut is best eaten when hot;
consequently, the carver himself may raise the joint, and cut some
slices from the under side, in the direction of from 1 to 2, as the
fillet is very much preferred by some eaters. The upper part of the
sirloin should be cut in the direction of the line from 5 to 6, and care
should be taken to carve it evenly and in thin slices. It will be found
a great assistance, in carving this joint well, if the knife be first
inserted just above the bone at the bottom, and run sharply along
between the bone and meat, and also to divide the meat from the bone in
the same way at the side of the joint. The slices will then come away
more readily.

[Illustration]

Some carvers cut the upper side of the sirloin across, as shown by the
line from 3 to 4; but this is a wasteful plan, and one not to be
recommended. With the sirloin, very finely-scraped horseradish is
usually served, and a little given, when liked, to each guest.
Horseradish sauce is preferable, however, for serving on the plate,
although the scraped horseradish may still be used as a garnish.

[Illustration]

A ROUND OF BEEF.

A round of beef is not so easily carved as many other joints of beef,
and to manage it properly, a thin-bladed and very sharp knife is
necessary. Off the outside of the joint, at its top, a thick slice
should first be cut, so as to leave the surface smooth; then thin and
even slices should be cleverly carved in the direction of the line 1 to
2; and with each slice of the lean a delicate morsel of the fat should
be served.

[Illustration]

BEEF TONGUE.

Passing the knife down in the direction of from 1 to 2, a not too thin
slice should be helped; and the carving of a tongue may be continued in
this way until the best portions of the upper side are served. The fat
which lies about the root of the tongue can be served by turning the
tongue, and cutting in the direction of from 3 to 4.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XIV.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB.

678. OF ALL WILD or DOMESTICATED ANIMALS, the sheep is, without
exception, the most useful to man as a food, and the most necessary to
his health and comfort; for it not only supplies him with the lightest
and most nutritious of meats, but, in the absence of the cow, its udder
yields him milk, cream, and a sound though inferior cheese; while from
its fat he obtains light, and from its fleece broadcloth, kerseymere,
blankets, gloves, and hose. Its bones when burnt make an animal
charcoal--ivory black--to polish his boots, and when powdered, a manure
for the cultivation of his wheat; the skin, either split or whole, is
made into a mat for his carriage, a housing for his horse, or a lining
for his hat, and many other useful purposes besides, being extensively
employed in the manufacture of parchment; and finally, when oppressed by
care and sorrow, the harmonious strains that carry such soothing
contentment to the heart, are elicited from the musical strings,
prepared almost exclusively from the intestines of the sheep.

679. THIS VALUABLE ANIMAL, of which England is estimated to maintain an
average stock of 32,000,000, belongs to the class already indicated
under the ox,--the _Mammalia_; to the order of _Rumenantia_, or
cud-chewing animal; to the tribe of _Capridae_, or horned quadrupeds;
and the genus _Ovis_, or the "sheep." The sheep may be either with or
without horns; when present, however, they have always this peculiarity,
that they spring from a triangular base, are spiral in form, and
lateral, at the side of the head, in situation. The fleece of the sheep
is of two sorts, either short and harsh, or soft and woolly; the wool
always preponderating in an exact ratio to the care, attention, and
amount of domestication bestowed on the animal. The generic
peculiarities of the sheep are the triangular and spiral form of the
horns, always larger in the male when present, but absent in the most
cultivated species; having sinuses at the base of all the toes of the
four feet, with two rudimentary hoofs on the fore legs, two inguinal
teats to the udder, with a short tail in the wild breed, but of varying
length in the domesticated; have no incisor teeth in the upper jaw, but
in their place a hard elastic cushion along the margin of the gum, on
which the animal nips and breaks the herbage on which it feeds; in the
lower jaw there are eight incisor teeth and six molars on each side of
both jaws, making in all 32 teeth. The fleece consists of two coats, one
to keep the animal warm, the other to carry off the water without
wetting the skin. The first is of wool, the weight and fineness of which
depend on the quality of the pasture and the care bestowed on the flock;
the other of hair, that pierces the wool and overlaps it, and is in
excess in exact proportion to the badness of the keep and inattention
with which the animal is treated.

680. THE GREAT OBJECT OF THE GRAZIER is to procure an animal that will
yield the greatest pecuniary return in the shortest time; or, in other
words, soonest convert grass and turnips into good mutton and fine
fleece. All sheep will not do this alike; some, like men, are so
restless and irritable, that no system of feeding, however good, will
develop their frames or make them fat. The system adopted by the breeder
to obtain a valuable animal for the butcher, is to enlarge the capacity
and functions of the digestive organs, and reduce those of the head and
chest, or the mental and respiratory organs. In the first place, the
mind should be tranquillized, and those spaces that can never produce
animal fibre curtailed, and greater room afforded, as in the abdomen,
for those that can. And as nothing militates against the fattening
process so much as restlessness, the chief wish of the grazier is to
find a dull, indolent sheep, one who, instead of frisking himself,
leaping his wattles, or even condescending to notice the butting gambols
of his silly companions, silently fills his paunch with pasture, and
then seeking a shady nook, indolently and luxuriously chows his cud with
closed eyes and blissful satisfaction, only rising when his delicious
repast is ended, to proceed silently and without emotion to repeat the
pleasing process of laying in more provender, and then returning to his
dreamy siesta to renew the delightful task of rumination. Such animals
are said to have a _lymphatic_ temperament, and are of so kindly a
nature, that on good pasturage they may be said to grow daily. The
Leicestershire breed is the best example of this lymphatic and contented
animal, and the active Orkney, who is half goat in his habits, of the
restless and unprofitable. The rich pasture of our midland counties
would take years in making the wiry Orkney fat and profitable, while one
day's fatigue in climbing rocks after a coarse and scanty herbage would
probably cause the actual death of the pampered and short-winded
Leicester.

681. THE MORE REMOVED FROM THE NATURE of the animal is the food on which
it lives, the more difficult is the process of assimilation, and the
more complex the chain of digestive organs; for it must be evident to
all, that the same apparatus that converts _flesh_ into _flesh_, is
hardly calculated to transmute _grass_ into flesh. As the process of
digestion in carnivorous animals is extremely simple, these organs are
found to be remarkably short, seldom exceeding the length of the
animal's body; while, where digestion is more difficult, from the
unassimilating nature of the aliment, as in the ruminant order, the
alimentary canal, as is the case with the sheep, is _twenty-seven times
the length of the body._ The digestive organ in all ruminant animals
consists of _four stomachs_, or, rather, a capacious pouch, divided by
doorways and valves into four compartments, called, in their order of
position, the Paunch, the Reticulum, the Omasum, and the Abomasum. When
the sheep nibbles the grass, and is ignorantly supposed to be eating, he
is, in fact, only preparing the raw material of his meal, in reality
only mowing the pasture, which, as he collects, is swallowed instantly,
passing into the first receptacle, the _paunch_, where it is surrounded
by a quantity of warm saliva, in which the herbage undergoes a process
of maceration or softening, till the animal having filled this
compartment, the contents pass through a valve into the second or
smaller bag,--the _reticulum_, where, having again filled the paunch
with a reserve, the sheep lies down and commences that singular process
of chewing the cud, or, in other words, masticating the food he has
collected. By the operation of a certain set of muscles, a small
quantity of this softened food from the _reticulum_, or second bag, is
passed into the mouth, which it now becomes the pleasure of the sheep to
grind under his molar teeth into a soft smooth pulp, the operation being
further assisted by a flow of saliva, answering the double purpose of
increasing the flavour of the aliment and promoting the solvency of the
mass. Having completely comminuted and blended this mouthful, it is
swallowed a second time; but instead of returning to the paunch or
reticulum, it passes through another valve into a side cavity,--the
_omasum_, where, after a maceration in more saliva for some hours, it
glides by the same contrivance into the fourth pouch,--the _abomasum_,
an apartment in all respects analogous to the ordinary stomach of
animals, and where the process of digestion, begun and carried on in the
previous three, is here consummated, and the nutrient principle, by
means of the bile, eliminated from the digested aliment. Such is the
process of digestion in sheep and oxen.

682. NO OTHER ANIMAL, even of the same order, possesses in so remarkable
a degree the power of converting pasture into flesh as the
Leicestershire sheep; the South Down and Cheviot, the two next breeds in
quality, are, in consequence of the greater vivacity of the animal's
nature, not equal to it in that respect, though in both the brain and
chest are kept subservient to the greater capacity of the organs of
digestion. Besides the advantage of increased bulk and finer fleeces,
the breeder seeks to obtain an augmented deposit of tissue in those
parts of the carcase most esteemed as food, or, what are called in the
trade "prime joints;" and so far has this been effected, that the
comparative weight of the hind quarters over the fore has become a test
of quality in the breed, the butchers in some markets charging twopence
a pound more for that portion of the sheep. Indeed, so superior are the
hind quarters of mutton now regarded, that very many of the West-end
butchers never deal in any other part of the sheep.

683. THE DIFFERENCE IN THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH in various breeds is a
well-established fact, not alone in flavour, but also in tenderness; and
that the nature of the pasture on which the sheep is fed influences the
flavour of the meat, is equally certain, and shown in the estimation in
which those flocks are held which have grazed on the thymy heath of
Bamstead in Sussex. It is also a well-established truth, that the
_larger_ the frame of the animal, the _coarser_ is the meat, and that
_small bones_ are both guarantees for the fineness of the breed and the
delicacy of the flesh. The sex too has much to do in determining the
quality of the meat; in the males, the lean is closer in fibre, deeper
in colour, harder in texture, less juicy, and freer from fat, than in
the female, and is consequently tougher and more difficult of digestion;
but probably age, and the character of the pasturage on which they are
reared, has, more than any other cause, an influence on the quality and
tenderness of the meat.

684. THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES of sheep inhabiting the different regions of
the earth have been reduced by Cuvier to three, or at most four,
species: the _Ovis Amman_, or the Argali, the presumed parent stock of
all the rest; the _Ovis Tragelaphus_, the bearded sheep of Africa; the
_Ovis Musmon_, the Musmon of Southern Europe; and the _Ovis Montana_,
the Mouflon of America; though it is believed by many naturalists that
this last is so nearly identical with the Indian Argali as to be
undeserving a separate place. It is still a controversy to which of
these three we are indebted for the many breeds of modern domestication;
the Argali, however, by general belief, has been considered as the most
_probable_ progenitor of the present varieties.

685. THE EFFECTS PRODUCED BY CHANGE OF CLIMATE, accident, and other
causes, must have been great to accomplish so complete a physical
alteration as the primitive Argali must have undergone before the
Musmon, or Mouflon of Corsica, the _immediate_ progenitor of all our
European breeds, assumed his present appearance. The Argali is about a
fifth larger in size than the ordinary English sheep, and being a native
of a tropical clime, his fleece is of hair instead of wool, and of a
warm reddish brown, approaching to yellow; a thick mane of darker hair,
about seven inches long, commences from two long tufts at the angle of
the jaws, and, running _under_ the throat and neck, descends down the
chest, dividing, at the fore fork, into two parts, one running down the
front of each leg, as low as the shank. The horns, unlike the character
of the order generally, have a quadrangular base, and, sweeping inwards,
terminate in a sharp point. The tail, about seven inches long, ends in a
tuft of stiff hairs. From this remarkable muffler-looking beard, the
French have given the species the name of _Mouflon à manchettes_. From
the primitive stock _eleven_ varieties have been reared in this country,
of the domesticated sheep, each supposed by their advocates to possess
some one or more special qualities. These eleven, embracing the Shetland
or Orkney; the Dun-woolled; Black-faced, or heath-bred; the Moorland, or
Devonshire; the Cheviot; the Horned, of Norfolk the Ryeland; South-Down;
the Merino; the Old Leicester, and the Teeswater, or New Leicester, have
of late years been epitomized; and, for all useful and practical
purposes, reduced to the following four orders:--

686. THE SOUTH-DOWN, the LEICESTER, the BLACK-FACED, and the CHEVIOT.

[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN RAM.]

[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN EWE.]

687. SOUTH-DOWNS.--It appears, as far as our investigation can trace the
fact, that from the very earliest epoch of agricultural history in
England, the breezy range of light chalky hills running through the
south-west and south of Sussex and Hampshire, and known as the
South-Downs, has been famous for a superior race of sheep; and we find
the Romans early established mills and a cloth-factory at Winchester,
where they may be said to terminate, which rose to such estimation, from
the fineness of the wool and texture of the cloth, that the produce was
kept as only worthy to clothe emperors. From this, it may be inferred
that sheep have always been indigenous to this hilly tract. Though
boasting so remote a reputation, it is comparatively within late years
that the improvement and present state of perfection of this breed has
been effected, the South-Down new ranking, for symmetry of shape,
constitution, and early maturity, with any stock in the kingdom. The
South-Down has no horns, is covered with a fine wool from two to three
inches long, has a small head, and legs and face of a grey colour. It
is, however, considered deficient in depth and breadth of chest. A
marked peculiarity of this breed is that its hind quarters stand higher
than the fore, the quarters weighing from fifteen to eighteen pounds.

[Illustration: LEICESTER RAM.]

[Illustration: LEICESTER EWE.]

688. THE LEICESTER.--It was not till the year 1755 that Mr. Robert
Bakewell directed his attention to the improvement of his stock of
sheep, and ultimately effected that change in the character of his flock
which has brought the breed to hold so prominent a place. The Leicester
is regarded as the largest example of the improved breeds, very
productive, and yielding a good fleece. He has a small head, covered
with short white hairs, a clean muzzle, an open countenance, full eye,
long thin ear, tapering neck, well-arched ribs, and straight back. The
meat is indifferent, its flavour not being so good as that of the
South-Down, and there is a very large proportion of fat. Average weight
of carcase from 90 to 100 lbs.

[Illustration: HEATH RAM.]

[Illustration: HEATH EWE.]

689. BLACK-FACED, on HEATH-BRED SHEEP.--This is the most hardy of all
our native breeds, and originally came from Ettrick Forest. The face and
legs are black, or sometimes mottled, the horns spiral, and on the top
of the forehead it has a small round tuft of lighter-coloured wool than
on the face; has the muzzle and lips of the same light hue, and what
shepherds call a mealy mouth; the eye is full of vivacity and fire, and
well open; the body long, round, and firm, and the limbs robust. The
wool is thin, coarse, and light. Weight of the quarter, from 10 to 16
lbs.

690. THE CHEVIOT.--From the earliest traditions, these hills in the
North, like the chalk-ridges in the South, have possessed a race of
large-carcased sheep, producing a valuable fleece. To these physical
advantages, they added a sound constitution, remarkable vigour, and
capability to endure great privation. Both sexes are destitute of horns,
face white, legs long and clean, carries the head erect, has the throat
and neck well covered, the cars long and open, and the face animated.
The Cheviot is a small-boned sheep, and well covered with wool to the
hough; the only defect in this breed, is in a want of depth in the
chest. Weight of the quarter, from 12 to 18 lbs.

[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH RAM.]

[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH EWE.]

691. THOUGH THE ROMNEY MARSHES, that wide tract of morass and lowland
moor extending from the Weald (or ancient forest) of Kent into Sussex,
has rather been regarded as a general feeding-ground for any kind of
sheep to be pastured on, it has yet, from the earliest date, been famous
for a breed of animals almost peculiar to the locality, and especially
for size, length, thickness, and quantity of wool, and what is called
thickness of stocking; and on this account for ages held pre-eminence
over every other breed in the kingdom. So satisfied were the Kentish men
with the superiority of their sheep, that they long resisted any
crossing in the breed. At length, however, this was effected, and from
the Old Romney and New Leicester a stock was produced that proved, in an
eminent degree, the advantage of the cross; and though the breed was
actually smaller than the original, it was found that the new stock did
not consume so much food, the stocking was increased, they were ready
for the market a _year_ sooner; that the fat formed more on the exterior
of the carcase, where it was of most advantage to the grazier, rather
than as formerly in the interior, where it went to the butcher as offal;
and though the wool was shorter and lighter, it was of a better colour,
finer, and possessed of superior felting properties.

692. THE ROMNEY MARSH BREED is a large animal, deep, close, and compact,
with white face and legs, and yields a heavy fleece of a good staple
quality. The general structure is, however, considered defective, the
chest being narrow and the extremities coarse; nevertheless its tendency
to fatten, and its early maturity, are universally admitted. The Romney
Marsh, therefore, though not ranking as a first class in respect of
perfection and symmetry of breed, is a highly useful, profitable, and
generally advantageous variety of the English domestic sheep.

693. DIFFERENT NAMES HAVE BEEN GIVEN to sheep by their breeders,
according to their age and sex. The male is called a ram, or tup; after
weaning, he is said to be a hog, or hogget, or a lamb-hog, tup-hog, or
teg; later he is a wether, or wether-hog; after the first shearing, a
shearing, or dinmont; and after each succeeding shearing, a two, three,
or four-shear ram, tup, or wether, according to circumstances. The
female is called a ewe, or gimmer-lamb, till weaned, when she becomes,
according to the shepherd's nomenclature, a gimmer-ewe, hog, or teg;
after shearing, a gimmer or shearing-ewe, or theave; and in future a
two, three, or four-shear ewe, or theave.

694. THE MODE OF SLAUGHTERING SHEEP is perhaps as humane and expeditious
a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought: the animal
being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while
pressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle of
the jaw, passing his knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck;
thus dividing the jugulars, carotids, and large vessels, the death being
very rapid from such a hemorrhage.

[Illustration: SIDE OF MUTTON, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]

695. ALMOST EVERY LARGE CITY has a particular manner of cutting up, or,
as it is called, dressing the carcase. In London this process is very
simple, and as our butchers have found that much skewering back,
doubling one part over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell,
tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep,
they avoid all such treatment entirely. The carcase when flayed (which
operation is performed while yet warm), the sheep when hung up and the
head removed, presents the profile shown in our cut; the small numerals
indicating the parts or joints into which one half of the animal is cut.
After separating the hind from the fore quarters, with eleven ribs to
the latter, the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown in
the sketch, in which the several joins are defined by the intervening
lines and figures. _Hind quarter_: No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin--the two,
when cut in one piece, being called the saddle. _Fore quarter_: No. 3,
the shoulder; 4 and 5 the neck; No. 5 being called, for distinction, the
scrag, which is generally afterwards separated from 4, the lower and
better joint; No. 6, the breast. The haunch of mutton, so often served
at public dinners and special entertainments, comprises all the leg and
so much of the loin, short of the ribs or lap, as is indicated on the
upper part of the carcase by a dotted line.

696. THE GENTLE AND TIMID DISPOSITION of the sheep, and its defenceless
condition, must very early have attached it to man for motives less
selfish than either its fleece or its flesh; for it has been proved
beyond a doubt that, obtuse as we generally regard it, it is susceptible
of a high degree of domesticity, obedience, and affection. In many parts
of Europe, where the flocks are guided by the shepherd's voice alone, it
is no unusual thing for a sheep to quit the herd when called by its
name, and follow the keeper like a dog. In the mountains of Scotland,
when a flock is invaded by a savage dog, the rams have been known to
form the herd into a circle, and placing themselves on the outside line,
keep the enemy at bay, or charging on him in a troop, have despatched
him with their horns.

697. THE VALUE OF THE SHEEP seems to have been early understood by Adam
in his fallen state; his skin not only affording him protection for his
body, but a covering for his tent; and accordingly, we find Abel
intrusted with this portion of his father's stock; for the Bible tells
us that "Abel was a keeper of sheep." What other animals were
domesticated at that time we can only conjecture, or at what exact
period the flesh of the sheep was first eaten for food by man, is
equally, if not uncertain, open to controversy. For though some
authorities maintain the contrary, it is but natural to suppose that
when Abel brought firstlings of his flock, "and the fat thereof," as a
sacrifice, the less dainty portions, not being oblations, were hardly
likely to have been flung away as refuse. Indeed, without supposing Adam
and his descendants to have eaten animal food, we cannot reconcile the
fact of Jubal Cain, Cain's son, and his family, living in tents, as they
are reported to have done, knowing that both their own garments and the
coverings of the tents, were made from the hides and skins of the
animals they bred; for the number of sheep and oxen slain for oblations
only, would not have supplied sufficient material for two such necessary
purposes. The opposite opinion is, that animal food was not eaten till
after the Flood, when the Lord renewed his covenant with Noah. From
Scriptural authority we learn many interesting facts as regards the
sheep: the first, that mutton fat was considered the most delicious
portion of any meat, and the tail and adjacent part the most exquisite
morsel in the whole body; consequently, such were regarded as especially
fit for the offer of sacrifice. From this fact we may reasonably infer
that the animal still so often met with in Palestine and Syria, and
known as the Fat-tailed sheep, was in use in the days of the patriarchs,
though probably not then of the size and weight it now attains to; a
supposition that gains greater strength, when it is remembered that the
ram Abraham found in the bush, when he went to offer up Isaac, was a
horned animal, being entangled in the brake by his curved horns; so far
proving that it belonged to the tribe of the Capridae, the fat-tailed
sheep appertaining to the same family.


LAMBS.

698. THOUGH THE LAMBING SEASON IN THIS COUNTRY usually commences in
March, under the artificial system, so much pursued now to please the
appetite of luxury, lambs can be procured at all seasons. When, however,
the sheep lambs in mid-winter, or the inclemency of the weather would
endanger the lives of mother and young, if exposed to its influence, it
is customary to rear the lambs within-doors, and under the shelter of
stables or barns, where, foddered on soft hay, and part fed on cow's
milk, the little creatures thrive rapidly: to such it is customary to
give the name of House Lamb, to distinguish it from that reared in the
open air, or grass-fed. The ewe goes five months with her young, about
152 days, or close on 22 weeks. The weaning season commences on poor
lands, about the end of the third month, but on rich pasture not till
the close of the fourth--sometimes longer.

699. FROM THE LARGE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE OR FLUIDS contained in the
tissues of all young animals, the flesh of lamb and veal is much more
prone, in close, damp weather, to become tainted and spoil than the
flesh of the more mature, drier, and closer-textured beef and mutton.
Among epicures, the most delicious sorts of lamb are those of the
South-Down breed, known by their black feet; and of these, those which
have been exclusively suckled on the milk of the parent ewe, are
considered the finest. Next to these in estimation are those fed on the
milk of several dams, and last of all, though the fattest, the grass-fed
lamb; this, however, implies an age much greater than either of the
others.

[Illustration: SIDE OF LAMB.]

700. LAMB, in the early part of the season, however reared, is in
London, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with eleven ribs
to the forequarter; but, as the season advances, these are subdivided
into two, and the hind-quarter in the same manner; the first consisting
of the shoulder, and the neck and breast; the latter, of the leg and the
loin,--as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from the
juicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable
weather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture
that may form on it.

701. IN THE PURCHASING OF LAMB FOR THE TABLE, there are certain signs by
which the experienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinion
whether the animal has been lately slaughtered, and whether the joints
possess that condition of fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat.
The first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily by the bright and
dilated appearance of the eye; the quality of the fore-quarter can
always be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the jugular, or
vein of the neck; while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the firm,
compact feel of the kidney, will answer in an equally positive manner
for the integrity of the hind-quarter.

702. MODE OF CUTTING UP A SIDE OF LAMB IN LONDON.--1, 1. Ribs; 2.
Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1,2,3. Fore Quarter.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XV.


BAKED MINCED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

703. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton, 1 or 2
onions, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of
pounded mace or nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy, mashed potatoes.

_Mode_.--Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-brown colour;
add the herbs and mutton, both of which should be also finely minced and
well mixed; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace or
nutmeg, and moisten with the above proportion of gravy. Put a layer of
mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton, and then
another layer of potatoes, and bake for about 1/2 hour.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--If there should be a large quantity of meat, use 2 onions
instead of 1.


BOILED BREAST OF MUTTON AND CAPER SAUCE.

704. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of mutton, bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
minced savoury herbs (put a large proportion of parsley), pepper and
salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut off the superfluous fat; bone it; sprinkle over a layer of
bread crumbs, minced herbs, and seasoning; roll, and bind it up firmly.
Boil _gently_ for 2 hours, remove the tape, and serve with caper sauce,
No. 382, a little of which should be poured over the meat.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year.


BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.

705. INGREDIENTS.--Mutton, water, salt.

_Mode_.--A. leg of mutton for boiling should not hang too long, as it
will not look a good colour when dressed. Cut off the shank-bone, trim
the knuckle, and wash and wipe it very clean; plunge it into sufficient
boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, then draw the saucepan to the
side of the fire, where it should remain till the finger can be borne in
the water. Then place it sufficiently near the fire, that the water may
gently simmer, and be very careful that it does not boil fast, or the
meat will be hard. Skim well, add a little salt, and in about 2-1/4
hours after the water begins to simmer, a moderate-sized leg of mutton
will be done. Serve with carrots and mashed turnips, which may be boiled
with the meat, and send caper sauce (No. 382) to table with it in a
tureen.

_Time_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton of 9 lbs., 2-1/4 hours after the
water boils; one of 12 lbs., 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ nearly all the year, but not so good in June, July, and
August.

_Note_.--When meat is liked very _thoroughly_ cooked, allow more time
than stated above. The liquor this joint was boiled in should be
converted into soup.

    THE GOOD SHEPHERD.--The sheep's complete dependence upon the
    shepherd for protection from its numerous enemies is frequently
    referred to in the Bible; thus the Psalmist likens himself to a
    lost sheep, and prays the Almighty to seek his servant; and our
    Saviour, when despatching his twelve chosen disciples to preach
    the Gospel amongst their unbelieving brethren, compares them to
    lambs going amongst wolves. The shepherd of the East, by kind
    treatment, calls forth from his sheep unmistakable signs of
    affection. The sheep obey his voice and recognize the names by
    which he calls them, and they follow him in and out of the fold.
    The beautiful figure of the "good shepherd," which so often
    occurs in the New Testament, expresses the tenderness of the
    Saviour for mankind. "The good shepherd giveth his life for the
    sheep."--_John_, x. 11. "I am the good shepherd, and know my
    sheep, and am known by mine."--_John_, x. 14. "And other sheep I
    have which are not of this fold: them also I must bring, and
    they shall hear my voice: and there shall be one fold and one
    shepherd."--_John_, x. 16.

BONED LEG OF MUTTON STUFFED.

706. INGREDIENTS.--A small leg of mutton, weighing 6 or 7 lbs.,
forcemeat, No. 417, 2 shalots finely minced.

_Mode_.--Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, to which add 2
finely-minced shalots. Bone the leg of mutton, without spoiling the
skin, and cut off a great deal of the fat. Fill the hole up whence the
bone was taken, with the forcemeat, and sew it up underneath, to prevent
its falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly, and roast it before a
nice clear fire for about 2-1/2 hours or rather longer; remove the tape
and send it to table with a good gravy. It may be glazed or not, as
preferred.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 4s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BRAISED FILLET OF MUTTON, with French Beans.

707. INGREDIENTS.--The chump end of a loin of mutton, buttered paper,
French beans, a little glaze, 1 pint of gravy.

_Mode_.--Roll up the mutton in a piece of buttered paper, roast it for 2
hours, and do not allow it to acquire the least colour. Have ready some
French beans, boiled, and drained on a sieve; remove the paper from the
mutton, glaze it; just heat up the beans in the gravy, and lay them on
the dish with the meat over them. The remainder of the gravy may be
strained, and sent to table in a tureen.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    VARIOUS QUALITIES OF MUTTON--Mutton is, undoubtedly, the meat
    most generally used in families; and, both by connoisseurs and
    medical men, it stands first in favour, whether its the favour,
    digestible qualifications, or general wholesomeness, be
    considered. Of all mutton, that furnished by South-Down sheep is
    the most highly esteemed; it is also the dearest, on account of
    its scarcity, and the great demand of it. Therefore, if the
    housekeeper is told by the butcher that he has not any in his
    shop, it should not occasion disappointment to the purchaser.
    The London and other markets are chiefly supplied with sheep
    called half-breeds, which are a cross between the Down and
    Lincoln or Leicester. These half-breeds make a greater weight of
    mutton than the true South-Downs, and, for this very desirable
    qualification, they are preferred by the great sheep-masters.
    The legs of this mutton range from 7 to 11 lbs. in weight; the
    shoulders, necks, or loins, about 6 to 9 lbs.; and if care is
    taken not to purchase it; the shoulders, necks, or loins, about
    8 to 9 lbs.; and it cure is taken not to purchase it too fat, it
    will be found the most satisfactory and economical mutton that
    can be bought.

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.

708. INGREDIENTS.--1 small leg of mutton, 4 carrots, 3 onions, 1 faggot
of savoury herbs, a bunch of parsley, seasoning to taste of pepper and
salt, a few slices of bacon, a few veal trimmings, 1/2 pint of gravy or
water.

_Mode_.--Line the bottom of a braising-pan with a few slices of bacon,
put in the carrots, onions, herbs, parsley, and seasoning, and over
these place the mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices of bacon
and the veal trimmings, pour in the gravy or water, and stew very gently
for 4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to a glaze over a sharp fire,
glaze the mutton with it, and send it to table, placed on a dish of
white haricot beans boiled tender, or garnished with glazed onions.

_Time_.--4 hours. Average cost, 5s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE.--This order of knighthood was
    founded by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy, in 1429, on the
    day of his marriage with the Princess Isabella of Portugal. The
    number of the members was originally fixed at thirty-one,
    including the sovereign, as the head and chief of the
    institution. In 1516, Pope Leo X. consented to increase the
    number to fifty-two, including the head. In 1700 the German
    emperor Charles VI. and King Philip of Spain both laid claim to
    the order. The former, however, on leaving Spain, which he could
    not maintain by force of arms, took with him, to Vienna, the
    archives of the order, the inauguration of which he solemnized
    there in 1713, with great magnificence; but Philip V. of Spain
    declared himself Grand Master, and formally protested, at the
    congress of Cambrai (1721), against the pretensions of the
    emperor. The dispute, though subsequently settled by the
    intercession of France, England, and Holland, was frequently
    renewed, until the order was tacitly introduced into both
    countries, and it now passes by the respective names of the
    Spanish or Austrian "Order of the Golden Fleece," according to
    the country where it is issued.

AN EXCELLENT WAY TO COOK A BREAST OF MUTTON.

709. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of mutton, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste,
flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, green peas.

_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into pieces about 2 inches square, and let it be
tolerably lean; put it into a stewpan, with a little fat or butter, and
fry it of a nice brown; then dredge in a little flour, slice the onions,
and put it with the herbs in the stewpan; pour in sufficient water
_just_ to cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until the mutton
is tender. Take out the meat, strain, and skim off all the fat from the
gravy, and put both the meat and gravy back into the stewpan; add about
a quart of young green peas, and let them boil gently until done. 2 or 3
slices of bacon added and stewed with the mutton give additional
flavour; and, to insure the peas being a beautiful green colour, they
may be boiled in water separately, and added to the stew at the moment
of serving.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to August.

    NAMES OF ANIMALS SAXON, AND OF THEIR FLESH NORMAN.--The names of
    all our domestic animals are of Saxon origin; but it is curious
    to observe that Norman names have been given to the different
    sorts of flesh which these animals yield. How beautifully this
    illustrates the relative position of Saxon and Norman after the
    Conquest. The Saxon hind had the charge of tending and feeding
    the domestic animals, but only that they might appear on the
    table of his Norman lord. Thus 'ox,' 'steer,' 'cow,' are Saxon,
    but 'beef' is Norman; 'calf' is Saxon, but 'veal' Norman;
    'sheep' is Saxon, but 'mutton' Norman; so it is severally with
    'deer' and 'venison,' 'swine' and 'pork,' 'fowl' and 'pullet.'
    'Bacon,' the only flesh which, perhaps, ever came within his
    reach, is the single exception.

BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).

710. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold mutton, tomato sauce, No. 529.

_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from a cold leg or shoulder of mutton;
season them with pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire. Make some
tomato sauce by recipe No. 529, pour it over the mutton, and serve. This
makes an excellent dish, and must be served very hot.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes to broil the mutton.

_Seasonable_ in September and October, when tomatoes are plentiful and
seasonable.

    SHEPHERDS AND THEIR FLOCKS.--The shepherd's crook is older than
    either the husbandman's plough or the warrior's sword. We are
    told that Abel was a keeper of sheep. Many passages in holy writ
    enable us to appreciate the pastoral riches of the first eastern
    nations; and we can form an idea of the number of their flocks,
    when we read that Jacob gave the children of Hamor a hundred
    sheep for the price of a field, and that the king of Israel
    received a hundred thousand every year from the king of Moab,
    his tributary, and a like number of rams covered with their
    fleece. The tendency which most sheep have to ramble, renders it
    necessary for them to be attended by a shepherd. To keep a flock
    within bounds, is no easy task; but the watchful shepherd
    manages to accomplish it without harassing the sheep. In the
    Highlands of Scotland, where the herbage is scanty, the
    sheep-farm requires to be very large, and to be watched over by
    many shepherds. The farms of some of the great Scottish
    landowners are of enormous extent. "How many sheep have you on
    your estate?" asked Prince Esterhazy of the duke of Argyll. "I
    have not the most remote idea," replied the duke; "but I know
    the shepherds number several thousands."

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS.

711. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece of
butter.

_Mode_.--Cut the chops from a well-hung tender loin of mutton, remove a
portion of the fat, and trim them into a nice shape; slightly beat and
level them; place the gridiron over a bright clear fire, rub the bars
with a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling, frequently
turn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done. Season with pepper
and salt, dish them on a very hot dish, rub a small piece of butter on
each chop, and serve very hot and expeditiously.

_Time_.--About 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 chop to each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


CHINA CHILO.

712. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of leg, loin, or neck of mutton, 2 onions,
2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful
of pepper, 1/4 pint of water, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter; when liked, a
little cayenne.

_Mode_.--Mince the above quantity of undressed leg, loin, or neck of
mutton, adding a little of the fat, also minced; put it into a stewpan
with the remaining ingredients, previously shredding the lettuce and
onion rather fine; closely cover the stewpan, after the ingredients have
been well stirred, and simmer gently for rather more than 2 hours. Serve
in a dish, with a border of rice round, the same as for curry.

_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to August.


CURRIED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

713. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of any joint of cold mutton, 2 onions,
1/4 lb. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful
of flour, salt to taste, 1/4 pint of stock or water.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions in thin rings, and put them into a stewpan
with the butter, and fry of a light brown; stir in the curry powder,
flour, and salt, and mix all well together. Cut the meat into nice thin
slices (if there is not sufficient to do this, it may be minced), and
add it to the other ingredients; when well browned, add the stock or
gravy, and stew gently for about 1/2 hour. Serve in a dish with a border
of boiled rice, the same as for other curries.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ in winter.


CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

714. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold loin or neck of mutton, 1 egg,
bread crumbs, brown gravy (No. 436), or tomato sauce (No. 529).

_Mode_.--Cut the remains of cold loin or neck of mutton into cutlets,
trim them, and take away a portion of the fat, should there be too much;
dip them in beaten egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry them a
nice brown in hot dripping. Arrange them on a dish, and pour round them
either a good gravy or hot tomato sauce.

_Time_.--About 7 minutes.

_Seasonable_.--Tomatoes to be had most reasonably in September and
October.


DORMERS.

715. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of cold mutton, 2 oz. of beef suet, pepper
and salt to taste, 3 oz. of boiled rice, 1 egg, bread crumbs, made
gravy.

_Mode_.--Chop the meat, suet, and rice finely; mix well together, and
add a high seasoning of pepper and salt, and roll into sausages; cover
them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot dripping of a nice brown.
Serve in a dish with made gravy poured round them, and a little in a
tureen.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to fry the sausages.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE GOLDEN FLEECE.--The ancient fable of the Golden Fleece may
    be thus briefly told:--Phryxus, a son of Athamus, king of
    Thebes, to escape the persecutions of his stepmother Ino, paid a
    visit to his friend Aeetes, king of Colchis. A ram, whose fleece
    was of pure gold, carried the youth through the air in a most
    obliging manner to the court of his friend. When safe At
    Colchis, Phryxus offered the ram on the altars of Mars, and
    pocketed the fleece. The king received him with great kindness,
    and gave him his daughter Chalciope in marriage; but, some time
    after, he murdered him in order to obtain possession of the
    precious fleece. The murder of Phryxus was amply revenged by the
    Greeks. It gave rise to the famous Argonautic expedition,
    undertaken by Jason and fifty of the most celebrated heroes of
    Greece. The Argonauts recovered the fleece by the help of the
    celebrated sorceress Medea, daughter of Aeetes, who fell
    desperately in love with the gallant but faithless Jason. In the
    story of the voyage of the Argo, a substratum of truth probably
    exists, though overlaid by a mass of fiction. The ram which
    carried Phryxus to Colchis is by some supposed to have been the
    name of the ship in which he embarked. The fleece of gold is
    thought to represent the immense treasures he bore away from
    Thebes. The alchemists of the fifteenth century were firmly
    convinced that the Golden Fleece was a treatise on the
    transmutation of metals, written on sheepskin.

HARICOT MUTTON.

I.

716. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of the middle or best end of the neck of
mutton, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 3 onions, popper and salt to taste, 1
tablespoonful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce.

_Mode_.--Trim off some of the fat, cut the mutton into rather thin
chops, and put them into a frying-pan with the fat trimmings. Fry of a
pale brown, but do not cook them enough for eating. Cut the carrots and
turnips into dice, and the onions into slices, and slightly fry them in
the same fat that the mutton was browned in, but do not allow them to
take any colour. Now lay the mutton at the bottom of a stewpan, then the
vegetables, and pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover
the whole. Give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on the side of
the fire to simmer gently until the meat is tender. Skim off every
particle of fat, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and a little
ketchup, and serve. This dish is very much better if made the day before
it is wanted for table, as the fat can be so much more easily removed
when the gravy is cold. This should be particularly attended to, as it
is apt to be rather rich and greasy if eaten the same day it is made. It
should be served in rather a deep dish.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to simmer gently.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


II.

717. INGREDIENTS.--Breast or scrag of mutton, flour, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 large onion, 3 cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 blade of
mace, carrots and turnips, sugar.

_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into square pieces, and fry them a nice colour;
then dredge over them a little flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt.
Put all into a stewpan, and moisten with boiling water, adding the
onion, stuck with 3 cloves, the mace, and herbs. Simmer gently till the
meat is nearly done, skim off all the fat, and then add the carrots and
turnips, which should previously be cut in dice and fried in a little
sugar to colour them. Let the whole simmer again for 10 minutes; take
out the onion and bunch of herbs, and serve.

_Time_.--About 3 hours to simmer.

_Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


HARICOT MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

718. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of
butter, 3 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of good gravy,
pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 1 tablespoonful
of mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery.

_Mode_.--Cut the cold mutton into moderate-sized chops, and take off the
fat; slice the onions, and fry them with the chops, in a little butter,
of a nice brown colour; stir in the flour, add the gravy, and let it
stew gently nearly an hour. In the mean time boil the vegetables until
_nearly_ tender, slice them, and add them to the mutton about 1/4 hour
before it is to be served. Season with pepper and salt, add the ketchup
and port wine, give one boil, and serve.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 9d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


HASHED MUTTON.

719. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast shoulder or leg of mutton,
6 whole peppers, 6 whole allspice, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head
of celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, flour.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat in nice even slices from the bones, trimming off
all superfluous fat and gristle; chop the bones and fragments of the
joint, put them into a stewpan with the pepper, spice, herbs, and
celery; cover with water, and simmer for 1 hour. Slice and fry the onion
of a nice pale-brown colour, dredge in a little flour to make it thick,
and add this to the bones, &c. Stew for 1/4 hour, strain the gravy, and
let it cool; then skim off every particle of fat, and put it, with the
meat, into a stewpan. Flavour with ketchup, Harvey's sauce; tomato
sauce, or any flavouring that may be preferred, and let the meat
gradually warm through, but not boil, or it will harden. To hash meat
properly, it should be laid in cold gravy, and only left on the fire
just long enough to warm through.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to simmer the gravy.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    HASHED MUTTON.--Many persons express a decided aversion to
    hashed mutton; and, doubtless, this dislike has arisen from the
    fact that they have unfortunately never been properly served
    with this dish. If properly done, however, the meat tender (it
    ought to be as tender as when first roasted), the gravy abundant
    and well flavoured, and the sippets nicely toasted, and the
    whole served neatly; then, hashed mutton is by no means to be
    despised, and is infinitely more wholesome and appetizing than
    the cold leg or shoulder, of which fathers and husbands, and
    their bachelor friends, stand in such natural awe.

HODGE-PODGE (Cold Meat Cookery).

720. INGREDIENTS.--About 1 lb. of underdone cold mutton, 2 lettuces, 1
pint of green peas, 5 or 6 green onions, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and
salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of water.

_Mode_.--Mince the mutton, and cut up the lettuces and onions in slices.
Put these in a stewpan, with all the ingredients except the peas, and
let these simmer very gently for 3/4 hour, keeping them well stirred.
Boil the peas separately, mix these with the mutton, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the end of May to August.


IRISH STEW.

I.

721. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of the loin or neck of mutton, 5 lbs. of
potatoes, 5 large onions, pepper and salt to taste, rather more than 1
pint of water.

_Mode_.--Trim off some of the fat of the above quantity of loin or neck
of mutton, and cut it into chops of a moderate thickness. Pare and halve
the potatoes, and cut the onions into thick slices. Put a layer of
potatoes at the bottom of a stewpan, then a layer of mutton and onions,
and season with pepper and salt; proceed in this manner until the
stewpan is full, taking care to have plenty of vegetables at the top.
Pour in the water, and let it stew very gently for 2-1/2 hours, keeping
the lid of the stewpan closely shut the _whole_ time, and occasionally
shaking it to prevent its burning.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--More suitable for a winter dish.


II.

722. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of the breast of mutton, 1-1/2 pint of
water, salt and pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of potatoes, 4 large onions.

_Mode_.--Put the mutton into a stewpan with the water and a little salt,
and let it stew gently for an hour; cut the meat into small pieces, skim
the fat from the gravy, and pare and slice the potatoes and onions. Put
all the ingredients into the stewpan in layers, first a layer of
vegetables, then one of meat, and sprinkle seasoning of pepper and salt
between each layer; cover closely, and let the whole stew very gently
for 1 hour of rather more, shaking it frequently to prevent its burning.

_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter dish.

_Note_.--Irish stew may be prepared in the same manner as above, but
baked in a jar instead of boiled. About 2 hours or rather more in a
moderate oven will be sufficient time to bake it.


ITALIAN MUTTON CUTLETS.

723. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the neck of mutton, clarified butter,
the yolk of 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of
minced savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of minced shalot, 1 saltspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel; pepper,
salt, and pounded mace to taste; flour, 1/2 pint of hot broth or water,
2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of soy, 2 teaspoonfuls
of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of port wine.

_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets, flatten them, and
trim off some of the fat, dip them in clarified butter, and then, into
the beaten yolk of an egg. Mix well together bread crumbs, herbs,
parsley, shalot, lemon-peel, and seasoning in the above proportion, and
cover the cutlets with these ingredients. Melt some butter in a
frying-pan, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a nice brown; take them,
out, and keep them hot before the fire. Dredge some flour into the pan,
and if there is not sufficient butter, add a little more; stir till it
looks brown, then pour in the hot broth or water, and the remaining
ingredients; give one boil, and pour round the cutlets. If the gravy
should not be thick enough, add a little more flour. Mushrooms, when
obtainable, are a great improvement to this dish, and when not in
season, mushroom-powder may be substituted for them.

_Time_.--10 minutes;--rather longer, should the cutlets be very thick.

_Average cost_, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE DOWNS.--The well-known substance chalk, which the chemist
    regards as a nearly pure carbonate of lime, and the microscopist
    as an aggregation of inconceivably minute shells and corals,
    forms the sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of
    England. The chalk-hills known as the South Downs start from the
    bold promontory of Beachy Head, traverse the county of Sussex
    from east to west, and pass through Hampshire into Surrey. The
    North Downs extend from Godalming, by Godstone, into Kent, and
    terminate in the line of cliffs which stretches from Dover to
    Ramsgate. The Downs are clothed with short verdant turf; but the
    layer of soil which rests upon the chalk is too thin to support
    trees and shrubs. The hills have rounded summits, and their
    smooth, undulated outlines are unbroken save by the sepulchral
    monuments of the early inhabitants of the country. The coombes
    and furrows, which ramify and extend into deep valleys, appear
    like dried-up channels of streams and rivulets. From time
    immemorial, immense flocks of sheep have been reared on these
    downs. The herbage of these hills is remarkably nutritious; and
    whilst the natural healthiness of the climate, consequent on the
    dryness of the air and the moderate elevation of the land, is
    eminently favourable to rearing a superior race of sheep, the
    arable land in the immediate neighbourhood of the Downs affords
    the means of a supply of other food, when the natural produce of
    the hills fails. The mutton of the South-Down breed of sheep is
    highly valued for its delicate flavour, and the wool for its
    fineness; but the best specimens of this breed, when imported
    from England into the West Indies, become miserably lean in the
    course of a year or two, and their woolly fleece gives place to
    a covering of short, crisp, brownish hair.

BROILED KIDNEYS (a Breakfast or Supper Dish).

724. INGREDIENTS.--Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open very
evenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be thicker
than the other, one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried,
but do not separate them; skin them, and pass a skewer under the white
part of each half to keep them flat, and broil over a nice clear fire,
placing the inside downwards; turn them when done enough on one side,
and cook them on the other. Remove the skewers, place the kidneys on a
very hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece of
butter in the middle of each; serve very hot and quickly, and send very
hot plates to table.

_Time_.--6 to 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 for each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the
kidneys each on a piece of buttered toast out in any fanciful shape. In
this case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement.

[Illustration: KIDNEYS.]

FRIED KIDNEYS.

725. INGREDIENTS.--Kidneys, butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the
skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter
is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for
7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half-done. Serve on a piece
of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of
butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve
very hot.

_Time_.--7 or 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 kidney to each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON.]

726. INGREDIENTS.--Haunch of mutton, a little salt, flour.

_Mode_.--Let this joint hang as long as possible without becoming
tainted, and while hanging dust flour over it, which keeps off the
flies, and prevents the air from getting to it. If not well hung, the
joint, when it comes to table, will neither do credit to the butcher or
the cook, as it will not be tender. Wash the outside well, lest it
should have a bad flavour from keeping; then flour it and put it down to
a nice brisk fire, at some distance, so that it may gradually warm
through. Keep continually basting, and about 1/2 hour before it is
served, draw it nearer to the fire to get nicely brown. Sprinkle a
little fine salt over the meat, pour off the dripping, add a little
boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Place a
paper ruche on the bone, and send red-currant jelly and gravy in a
tureen to table with it.

_Time_.--About 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 8 to 10 persons.

_Seasonable_.--In best season from September to March.

    HOW TO BUY MEAT ECONOMICALLY.--If the housekeeper is not very
    particular as to the precise joints to cook for dinner, there is
    oftentimes an opportunity for her to save as much money in her
    purchases of meat as will pay for the bread to eat with it. It
    often occurs, for instance, that the butcher may have a
    superfluity of certain joints, and these he would be glad to get
    rid of at a reduction of sometimes as much as 1d. or 1-1/2d. per
    lb., and thus, in a joint of 8 or 9 lbs., will be saved enough
    to buy 2 quartern loaves. It frequently happens with many
    butchers, that, in consequence of a demand for legs and loins of
    mutton, they have only shoulders left, and these they will be
    glad to sell at a reduction.

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON.]

727. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of mutton, a little salt.

_Mode_.--As mutton, when freshly killed, is never tender, hang it almost
as long as it will keep; flour it, and put it in a cool airy place for a
few days, if the weather will permit. Wash off the flour, wipe it very
dry, and cut off the shank-bone; put it down to a brisk clear fire,
dredge with flour, and keep continually basting the whole time it is
cooking. About 20 minutes before serving, draw it near the fire to get
nicely brown; sprinkle over it a little salt, dish the meat, pour off
the dripping, add some boiling water slightly salted, strain it over the
joint, and serve.

_Time_.--A leg of mutton weighing 10 lbs., about 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 hours;
one of 7 lbs., about 2 hours, or rather less.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for 6 or 8
persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but not so good in June, July, and August.


ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON.

728. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of mutton, a little salt.

_Mode_.--Cut and trim off the superfluous fat, and see that the butcher
joints the meat properly, as thereby much annoyance is saved to the
carver, when it comes to table. Have ready a nice clear fire (it need
not be a very wide large one), put down the meat, dredge with flour, and
baste well until it is done. Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton,
and serve very hot.

[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON.]

_Time_.--A loin of mutton weighing 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

ROLLED LOIN OF MUTTON (Very Excellent).

729. INGREDIENTS.--About 6 lbs. of a loin of mutton, 1/2 teaspoonful of
pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of mace,
1/4 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat No. 417, 1 glass of port
wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and sprinkle over it
pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the above proportion, all
of which must be pounded very fine. Let it remain for a day, then make a
forcemeat by recipe No. 417, cover the meat with it, and roll and bind
it up firmly. Half bake it in a slow oven, let it grow cold, take off
the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan; flour the meat, put it in the
gravy, and stew it till perfectly tender. Now take out the meat, unbind
it, add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above, give one boil, and pour
over the meat. Serve with red-currant jelly; and, if obtainable, a few
mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy, will be found a great
improvement.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to bake the meat, 1-1/2 hour to stew gently.

_Average cost_, 4s. 9d. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--This joint will be found very nice if rolled and stuffed, as
here directed, and plainly roasted. It should be well basted, and served
with a good gravy and currant jelly.


BOILED NECK OF MUTTON.

730. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of the middle, or best end of the neck of
mutton; a little salt.

_Mode_.--Trim off a portion of the fat, should there be too much, and if
it is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone should be sawn down, the
ribs stripped halfway down, and the ends of the bones chopped off; this
is, however, not necessary. Put the meat into sufficient _boiling_ water
to cover it; when it boils, add a little salt and remove all the scum.
Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the water get so cool
that the finger may be borne in it; then simmer very _slowly_ and gently
until the meat is done, which will be in about 1-1/2 hour, or rather
more, reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer.

Serve with turnips and caper sauce, No. 382, and pour a little of it
over the meat. The turnips should be boiled with the mutton; and, when
at hand, a few carrots will also be found an improvement. These,
however, if very large and thick, must be cut into long thinnish pieces,
or they will not be sufficiently done by the time the mutton is ready.
Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips placed alternately round the
mutton.

_Time_.--4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, about 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2 d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE POETS ON SHEEP.--The keeping of flocks seems to have been
    the first employment of mankind; and the most ancient sort of
    poetry was probably pastoral. The poem known as the Pastoral
    gives a picture of the life of the simple shepherds of the
    golden age, who are supposed to have beguiled their time in
    singing. In all pastorals, repeated allusions are made to the
    "fleecy flocks," the "milk-white lambs," and "the tender ewes;"
    indeed, the sheep occupy a position in these poems inferior only
    to that of the shepherds who tend them. The "nibbling sheep" has
    ever been a favourite of the poets, and has supplied them with
    figures and similes without end. Shakspere frequently compares
    men to sheep. When Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the
    side of Henry VI., the poor king thus touchingly speaks of his
    helplessness;--

      "So flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf:
       So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece,
       And next his throat, unto the butcher's knife."

    In the "Two Gentlemen of Verona," we meet with the following
    humorous comparison:--

    "_Proteus_. The sheep for fodder follow the shepherd, the
    shepherd for food follows not the sheep: thou for wages
    followest thy master, thy master for wages follows not thee;
    therefore, thou art a sheep.

    "_Speed_. Such another proof will make me cry _baa_."

    The descriptive poets give us some charming pictures of sheep.
    Every one is familiar with the sheep-shearing scene in Thomson's
    "Seasons:"--

      "Heavy and dripping, to the breezy brow
      Slow move the harmless race; where, as they spread
      Their dwelling treasures to the sunny ray,
      Inly disturb'd, and wond'ring what this wild
      Outrageous tumult means, their loud complaints
      The country fill; and, toss'd from rock to rock,
      Incessant bleatings run around the hills."

    What an exquisite idea of stillness is conveyed in the
    oft-quoted line from Gray's "Elegy:"--

      "And drowsy tinklings lull the distant fold."

    From Dyer's quaint poem of "The Fleece" we could cull a hundred
    passages relating to sheep; but we have already exceeded our
    space. We cannot, however, close this brief notice of the
    allusions that have been made to sheep by our poets, without
    quoting a couple of verses from Robert Burns's "Elegy on Poor
    Mailie," his only "pet _yowe_:"--

      "Thro' a' the town she troll'd by him;
      A lang half-mile she could descry him;
      Wi' kindly bleat, when she did spy him.
                  She ran wi' speed;
      A friend mair faithfu' ne'er cam' nigh him
                  Than Mailie dead.

      "I wat she was a sheep o' sense.
      An' could behave hersel' wi' mense;
      I'll say't, she never brak a fence,
                  Thro' thievish greed.
      Our bardie, lanely, keeps the spence,
                  Sin' Mailie's dead."

MUTTON COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

731. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of a cold leg or loin of mutton, salt
and pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 small bunch of savoury
herbs minced very fine, 2 or 3 shalots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1
dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Cut some very thin slices from a leg or the chump end of a loin
of mutton; sprinkle them with pepper, salt, pounded mace, minced savoury
herbs, and minced shalot; fry them in butter, stir in a dessertspoonful
of flour, add the gravy and lemon-juice, simmer very gently about 5 or 7
minutes, and serve immediately.

_Time_.--5 to 7 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: MUTTON CUTLETS.]

MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MASHED POTATOES.

732. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the best end of the neck of mutton,
salt and pepper to taste, mashed potatoes.

_Mode_.--Procure a well-hung neck of mutton, saw off about 3 inches of
the top of the bones, and cut the cutlets of a moderate thickness. Shape
them by chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone; beat them flat
with a cutlet-chopper, and scrape quite clean, a portion of the top of
the bone. Broil them over a nice clear fire for about 7 or 8 minutes,
and turn them frequently. Have ready some smoothly-mashed white
potatoes; place these in the middle of the dish; when the cutlets are
done, season with pepper and salt; arrange them round the potatoes, with
the thick end of the cutlets downwards, and serve very hot and quickly.
(See Coloured Plate.)

_Time_.--7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Cutlets may be served in various ways; with peas, tomatoes,
onions, sauce piquante, &c.


MUTTON PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).

733. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold leg, loin, or neck of mutton,
pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 dessertspoonful of
chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs; when liked, a
little minced onion or shalot; 3 or 4 potatoes, 1 teacupful of gravy;
crust.

_Mode_.--Cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well seasoned
and mixed with a few herbs; if the leg is used, cut it into very thin
slices; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place some at the bottom
of the dish; season well with pepper, salt, mace, parsley, and herbs;
then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and so on till
the dish is full; add the gravy, cover with a crust, and bake for 1
hour.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The remains of an underdone leg of mutton may be converted into
a very good family pudding, by cutting the meat into slices, and putting
them into a basin lined with a suet crust. It should be seasoned well
with pepper, salt, and minced shalot, covered with a crust, and boiled
for about 3 hours.


MUTTON PIE.

734. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of the neck or loin of mutton, weighed after
being boned; 2 kidneys, pepper and salt to taste, 2 teacupfuls of gravy
or water, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley; when liked, a little
minced onion or shalot; puff crust.

_Mode_.--Bone the mutton, and cut the meat into steaks all of the same
thickness, and leave but very little fat. Cut up the kidneys, and
arrange these with the meat neatly in a pie-dish; sprinkle over them the
minced parsley and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour in the gravy,
and cover with a tolerably good puff crust. Bake for 1-1/2 hour, or
rather longer, should the pie be very large, and let the oven be rather
brisk. A well-made suet crust may be used instead of puff crust, and
will be found exceedingly good.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


MUTTON PUDDING.

735. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of the chump end of the loin of mutton,
weighed after being boned; pepper and salt to taste, suet crust made
with milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each pound
of flour; a very small quantity of minced onion (this may be omitted
when the flavour is not liked).

_Mode_.--Cut the meat into rather thin slices, and season them with
pepper and salt; line the pudding-dish with crust; lay in the meat, and
nearly, but do not quite, fill it up with water; when the flavour is
liked, add a small quantity of minced onion; cover with crust, and
proceed in the same manner as directed in recipe No. 605, using the same
kind of pudding-dish as there mentioned.

_Time_.--About 3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.


RAGOUT OF COLD NECK OF MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

736. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz.
of butter, a little flour, 2 onions sliced, 1/4 pint of water, 2 small
carrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into small chops, and trim off the greater
portion of the fat; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in a little
flour, add the sliced onions, and keep stirring till brown; then put in
the meat. When this is quite brown, add the water, and the carrots and
turnips, which should be cut into very thin slices; season with pepper
and salt, and stew till quite tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour.
When in season, green peas may be substituted for the carrots and
turnips: they should be piled in the centre of the dish, and the chops
laid round.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August.


ROAST NECK OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: NECK OF MUTTON 1-2. _Best end_. 2-3. _Scrag_.]

737. INGREDIENTS.--Neck of mutton; a little salt.

_Mode_.--For roasting, choose the middle, or the best end, of the neck
of mutton, and if there is a very large proportion of fat, trim off some
of it, and save it for making into suet puddings, which will be found
exceedingly good. Let the bones be cut short and see that it is properly
jointed before it is laid down to the fire, as they will be more easily
separated when they come to table. Place the joint at a nice brisk
fire, dredge it with flour, and keep continually basting until done. A
few minutes before serving, draw it nearer the the fire to acquire a
nice colour, sprinkle over it a little salt, pour off the dripping, add
a little boiling water slightly salted, strain this over the meat and
serve. Red-currant jelly may be sent to table with it.

_Time_.--4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, rather more than 1 hour.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES.--The distinction between hair and wool is
    rather arbitrary than natural, consisting in the greater or less
    degrees of fineness, softness and pliability of the fibres.
    When the fibres possess these properties so far as to admit of
    their being spun and woven into a texture sufficiently pliable
    to be used as an article of dress, they are called wool. The
    sheep, llama, Angora goat, and the goat of Thibet, are the
    animals from which most of the wool used in manufactures is
    obtained. The finest of all wools is that from the goat of
    Thibet, of which the Cashmere shawls are made. Of European
    wools, the finest is that yielded by the Merino sheep, the
    Spanish and Saxon breeds taking the precedence. The Merino
    sheep, as now naturalized in Australia, furnishes an excellent
    fleece; but all varieties of sheep-wool, reared either in Europe
    or Australia are inferior in softness of feel to that grown in
    India, and to that of the llama of the Andes. The best of our
    British wools are inferior in fineness to any of the
    above-mentioned, being nearly twelve times the thickness of the
    finest Spanish merino; but for the ordinary purposes of the
    manufacturer, they are unrivalled.

ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON.]

738. INGREDIENTS.--Saddle of mutton; a little salt.

_Mode_.--To insure this joint being tender, let it hang for ten days or
a fortnight, if the weather permits. Cut off the tail and flaps and trim
away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and
have the skin taken off and skewered on again. Put it down to a bright,
clear fire, and, when the joint has been cooking for an hour, remove the
skin and dredge it with flour. It should not be placed too near the
fire, as the fat should not be in the slightest degree burnt. Keep
constantly basting, both before and after the skin is removed; sprinkle
some salt over the joint. Make a little gravy in the dripping-pan; pour
it over the meat, which send to table with a tureen of made gravy and
red-currant jelly.

_Time_.--A saddle of mutton weighing 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours; 14 lbs.,
3-1/4 hours. When liked underdone, allow rather less time.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized saddle of 10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year; not so good when lamb is in full season.


ROAST SHOULDER OF MUTTON.

739. INGREDIENTS.--Shoulder of mutton; a little salt.

_Mode_.--Put the joint down to a bright, clear fire; flour it well, and
keep continually basting. About 1/4 hour before serving, draw it near
the fire, that the outside may acquire a nice brown colour, but not
sufficiently near to blacken the fat. Sprinkle a little fine salt over
the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents, pour in a little
boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Onion
sauce, or stewed Spanish onions, are usually sent to table with this
dish, and sometimes baked potatoes.

_Time_.--A shoulder of mutton weighing 6 or 7 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 8d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Shoulder of mutton may be dressed in a variety of ways; boiled,
and served with onion sauce; boned, and stuffed with a good veal
forcemeat; or baked, with sliced potatoes in the dripping-pan.

    THE ETTRICK SHEPHERD.--James Hogg was perhaps the most
    remarkable man that ever wore the _maud_ of a shepherd. Under
    the garb, aspect, and bearing of a rude peasant (and rude enough
    he was in most of these things, even after no inconsiderable
    experience of society), the world soon discovered a true poet.
    He taught himself to write, by copying the letters of a printed
    book as he lay watching his flock on the hillside, and believed
    that he had reached the utmost pitch of his ambition when he
    first found that his artless rhymes could touch the heart of the
    ewe-milker who partook the shelter of his mantle during the
    passing storm. If "the shepherd" of Professor Wilson's "Noctes
    Ambrosianae" may be taken as a true portrait of James Hogg, we
    must admit that, for quaintness of humour, the poet of Ettrick
    Forest had few rivals. Sir Walter Scott said that Hogg's
    thousand little touches of absurdity afforded him more
    entertainment than the best comedy that ever set the pit in a
    roar. Among the written productions of the shepherd-poet, is an
    account of his own experiences in sheep-tending, called "The
    Shepherd's Calender." This work contains a vast amount of useful
    information upon sheep, their diseases, habits, and management.
    The Ettrick Shepherd died in 1835.

SHEEP'S BRAINS, EN MATELOTE (an Entree).

740. INGREDIENTS.--6 sheep's brains, vinegar, salt, a few slices of
bacon, 1 small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficient
stock or weak broth to cover the brains, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
matelote sauce, No. 512.

_Mode_.--Detach the brains from the heads without breaking them, and put
them into a pan of warm water; remove the skin, and let them remain for
two hours. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add a little vinegar
and salt, and put in the brains. When they are quite firm, take them out
and put them into very cold water. Place 2 or 3 slices of bacon in a
stewpan, put in the brains, the onion stuck with 2 cloves, the parsley,
and a good seasoning of pepper and salt; cover with stock, or weak
broth, and boil them gently for about 25 minutes. Have ready some
croûtons; arrange these in the dish alternately with the brains, and
cover with a matelote sauce, No. 512, to which has been added the above
proportion of lemon-juice.

_Time_.--25 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

SHEEP'S FEET or TROTTERS (Soyer's Recipe).

741. INGREDIENTS.--12 feet, 1/4 lb. of beef or mutton suet, 2 onions, 1
carrot, 2 bay-leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 oz. of salt, 1/4 oz. of
pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2-1/2 quarts of water, 1/4 lb. of
fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 3/4
teaspoonful of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1
gill of milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Have the feet cleaned, and the long bone extracted from them.
Put the suet into a stewpan, with the onions and carrot sliced, the
bay-leaves, thyme, salt, and pepper, and let these simmer for 5 minutes.
Add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and the water, and keep stirring till it
boils; then put in the feet. Let these simmer for 3 hours, or until
perfectly tender, and take them and lay them on a sieve. Mix together,
on a plate, with the back of a spoon, butter, salt, flour (1
teaspoonful), pepper, nutmeg, and lemon-juice as above, and put the
feet, with a gill of milk, into a stewpan. When very hot, add the
butter, &c., and stir continually till melted. Now mix the yolks of 2
eggs with 5 tablespoonfuls of milk; stir this to the other ingredients,
keep moving the pan over the fire continually for a minute or two, but
do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added. Serve in a very hot
dish, and garnish with croûtons, or sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TO DRESS A SHEEP'S HEAD.

742. INGREDIENTS.--1 sheep's head, sufficient water to cover it, 3
carrots, 3 turnips, 2 or 3 parsnips, 3 onions, a small bunch of parsley,
1 teaspoonful of pepper, 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1/4 lb. of Scotch
oatmeal.

_Mode_.--Clean the head well, and let it soak in warm water for 2 hours,
to get rid of the blood; put it into a saucepan, with sufficient cold
water to cover it, and when it boils, add the vegetables, peeled and
sliced, and the remaining ingredients; before adding the oatmeal, mix it
to a smooth batter with a little of the liquor. Keep stirring till it
boils up; then shut the saucepan closely, and let it stew gently for
1-1/2 or 2 hours. It may be thickened with rice or barley, but oatmeal
is preferable.

_Time_.--1-1/2 or 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    SINGED SHEEP'S HEAD.--The village of Dudingston, which stands
    "within a mile of Edinburgh town," was formerly celebrated for
    this ancient and homely Scottish dish. In the summer months,
    many opulent citizens used to resort to this place to solace
    themselves over singed sheep's heads, boiled or baked. The sheep
    fed upon the neighbouring hills were slaughtered at this
    village, and the carcases were sent to town; but the heads were
    left to be consumed in the place. We are not aware whether the
    custom of eating sheep's heads at Dudingston is still kept up by
    the good folks of Edinburgh.

TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (Cold Meat Cookery).

743. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, butter, a few
slices of cold mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 kidneys.

_Mode_.--Make a smooth batter of flour, milk, and eggs in the above
proportion; butter a baking-dish, and pour in the batter. Into this
place a few slices of cold mutton, previously well seasoned, and the
kidneys, which should be cut into rather small pieces; bake about 1
hour, or rather longer, and send it to table in the dish it was baked
in. Oysters or mushrooms may be substituted for the kidneys, and will be
found exceedingly good.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BREAST OF LAMB AND GREEN PEAS.

744. INGREDIENTS.--1 breast of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1/4 pint of
stock No. 105, 1 lemon, 1 onion, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, green peas.

_Mode_.--Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, put it into a saucepan
of boiling water, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Take it out and lay
it in cold water. Line the bottom of a stewpan with a few thin slices of
bacon; lay the lamb on these; peel the lemon, cut it into slices, and
put these on the meat, to keep it white and make it tender; cover with 1
or 2 more slices of bacon; add the stock, onion, and herbs, and set it
on a slow fire to simmer very gently until tender. Have ready some green
peas, put these on a dish, and place the lamb on the top of these. The
appearance of this dish may be much improved by glazing the lamb, and
spinach may be substituted for the peas when variety is desired.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_,--grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.

    THE LAMB AS A SACRIFICE.--The number of lambs consumed in
    sacrifices by the Hebrews must have been very considerable. Two
    lambs "of the first year" were appointed to be sacrificed daily
    for the morning and evening sacrifice; and a lamb served as a
    substitute for the first-born of unclean animals, such as the
    ass, which could not be accepted as an offering to the Lord.
    Every year, also, on the anniversary of the deliverance of the
    children of Israel from the bondage of Egypt, every family was
    ordered to sacrifice a lamb or kid, and to sprinkle some of its
    blood upon the door-posts, in commemoration of the judgment of
    God upon the Egyptians. It was to be eaten roasted, with
    unleavened bread and bitter herbs, in haste, with the loins
    girded, the shoes on the feet, and the staff in the hand; and
    whatever remained until the morning was to be burnt. The sheep
    was also used in the numerous special, individual, and national
    sacrifices ordered by the Jewish law. On extraordinary
    occasions, vast quantities of sheep were sacrificed at once;
    thus Solomon, on the completion of the temple, offered "sheep
    and oxen that could not be told nor numbered for multitude."

STEWED BREAST OF LAMB.

745. INGREDIENTS.--1 breast of lamb, pepper and salt to taste,
sufficient stock, No. 105, to cover it, 1 glass of sherry, thickening of
butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Skin the lamb, cut it into pieces, and season them with pepper
and salt; lay these in a stewpan, pour in sufficient stock or gravy to
cover them, and stew very gently until tender, which will be in about
1-1/2 hour. Just before serving, thicken the sauce with a little butter
and flour; add the sherry, give one boil, and pour it over the meat.
Green peas, or stewed mushrooms, may be strewed over the meat, and will
be found a very great improvement.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_,--grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.


LAMB CHOPS.

746. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of lamb, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Trim off the flap from a fine loin of lamb, aid cut it into
chops about 3/4 inch in thickness. Have ready a bright clear fire; lay
the chops on a gridiron, and broil them of a nice pale brown, turning
them when required. Season them with pepper and salt; serve very hot and
quickly, and garnish with crisped parsley, or place them on mashed
potatoes. Asparagus, spinach, or peas are the favourite accompaniments
to lamb chops.

_Time_.--About 8 or 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 chops to each person.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.


LAMB CUTLETS AND SPINACH (an Entree).

747. INGREDIENTS.--8 cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to
taste, a little clarified butter.

_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by cutting
off the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fat and all
the skin, and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean. Brush the
cutlets over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and season with
pepper and salt. Now dip them into clarified butter, sprinkle over a few
more bread crumbs, and fry them over a sharp fire, turning them when
required. Lay them before the fire to drain, and arrange them on a dish
with spinach in the centre, which should be previously well boiled,
drained, chopped, and seasoned.

_Time_.--About 7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.

_Note_.--Peas, asparagus, or French beans, may be substituted for the
spinach; or lamb cutlets may be served with stewed cucumbers, Soubise
sauce, &c. &c.


LAMB'S FRY.

748. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of lamb's fry, 3 pints of water, egg and bread
crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Boil the fry for 1/4 hour in the above proportion of water,
take it out and dry it in a cloth; grate some bread down finely, mix
with it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a high seasoning of pepper
and salt. Brush the fry lightly over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle
over the bread crumbs, and fry for 5 minutes. Serve very hot on a napkin
in a dish, and garnish with plenty of crisped parsley.

_Time_.-1 hour to simmer the fry, 5 minutes to fry it.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.


HASHED LAMB AND BROILED BLADE-BONE.

749. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold shoulder of lamb, pepper and
salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, about 1/2 pint of stock or gravy, 1
tablespoonful of shalot vinegar, 3 or 4 pickled gherkins.

_Mode_.--Take the blade-bone from the shoulder, and cut the meat into
collops as neatly as possible. Season the bone with pepper and salt,
pour a little oiled butter over it, and place it in the oven to warm
through. Put the stock into a stewpan, add the ketchup and shalot
vinegar, and lay in the pieces of lamb. Let these heat gradually
through, but do not allow them to boil. Take the blade-bone out of the
oven, and place it on a gridiron over a sharp fire to brown. Slice the
gherkins, put them into the hash, and dish it with the blade-bone in the
centre. It may be garnished with croutons or sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_,--house lamb, from Christmas to March; grass lamb, from
Easter to Michaelmas.

[Illustration: FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.]

ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.

750. INGREDIENTS.--Lamb, a little salt.

_Mode_.--To obtain the flavour of lamb in perfection, it should not be
long kept; time to cool is all that it requires; and though the meat may
be somewhat thready, the juices and flavour will be infinitely superior
to that of lamb that has been killed 2 or 3 days. Make up the fire in
good time, that it may be clear and brisk when the joint is put down.
Place it at a sufficient distance to prevent the fat from burning, and
baste it constantly till the moment of serving. Lamb should be very
_thoroughly_ done without being dried up, and not the slightest
appearance of red gravy should be visible, as in roast mutton: this rule
is applicable to all young white meats. Serve with a little gravy made
in the dripping-pan, the same as for other roasts, and send to table
with it a tureen of mint sauce, No. 469, and a fresh salad. A cut lemon,
a small piece of fresh butter, and a little cayenne, should also be
placed on the table, so that when the carver separates the shoulder from
the ribs, they may be ready for his use; if, however, he should not be
very expert, we would recommend that the cook should divide these joints
nicely before coming to table.

_Time_.--Fore-quarter of lamb weighing 10 lbs., 1-3/4 to 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_,--grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.


BOILED LEG OF LAMB A LA BECHAMEL.

751. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of lamb, Béchamel sauce, No. 367.

_Mode_.--Do not choose a very large joint, but one weighing about 5 lbs.
Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, into which plunge the lamb, and
when it boils up again, draw it to the side of the fire, and let the
water cool a little. Then stew very gently for about 1-1/4 hour,
reckoning from the time that the water begins to simmer. Make some
Béchamel by recipe No. 367, dish the lamb, pour the sauce over it, and
garnish with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots. When liked, melted
butter may be substituted for the Béchamel: this is a more simple
method, but not nearly so nice. Send to table with it some of the sauce
in a tureen, and boiled cauliflowers or spinach, with whichever
vegetable the dish is garnished.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour after the water simmers.

_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.


ROAST LEG OF LAMB.

752. INGREDIENTS.--Lamb, a little salt.

[Illustration: LEG OF LAMB.]

_Mode_.--Place the joint at a good distance from the fire at first, and
baste well the whole time it is cooking. When nearly done, draw it
nearer the fire to acquire a nice brown colour. Sprinkle a little fine
salt over the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents; pour in a
little boiling water, and strain this over the meat. Serve with mint
sauce and a fresh salad, and for vegetables send peas, spinach, or
cauliflowers to table with it.

_Time_.--A leg of lamb weighing 5 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.


BRAISED LOIN OF LAMB.

[Illustration: LOIN OF LAMB.]

753. INGREDIENTS.--1 loin of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1 bunch of
green onions, 5 or 6 young carrots, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades
of pounded mace, 1 pint of stock, salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Bone a loin of lamb, and line the bottom of a stewpan just
capable of holding it, with a few thin slices of fat bacon; add the
remaining ingredients, cover the meat with a few more slices of bacon,
pour in the stock, and simmer very _gently_ for 2 hours; take it up, dry
it, strain and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat,
and serve it either on stewed peas, spinach, or stewed cucumbers.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 11d. per lb.

_Sufficient for_ 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.

[Illustration: SADDLE OF LAMB. RIBS OF LAMB.]

ROAST SADDLE OF LAMB.

754. INGREDIENTS.--Lamb; a little salt.

_Mode_.--This joint is now very much in vogue, and is generally
considered a nice one for a small party. Have ready a clear brisk fire;
put down the joint at a little distance, to prevent the fat from
scorching, and keep it well basted all the time it is cooking. Serve
with mint sauce and a fresh salad, and send to table with it, either
peas, cauliflowers, or spinach.

_Time_.--A small saddle, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.

_Note_.--Loin and ribs of lamb are roasted in the same manner, and
served with the same sauces as the above. A loin will take about 1-1/4
hour; ribs, from 1 to 1-1/4 hour.


ROAST SHOULDER OF LAMB.

755. INGREDIENTS.--Lamb; a little salt.

_Mode_.--Have ready a clear brisk fire, and put down the joint at a
sufficient distance from it, that the fat may not burn. Keep constantly
basting until done, and serve with a little gravy made in the
dripping-pan, and send mint sauce to table with it. Peas, spinach, or
cauliflowers are the usual vegetables served with lamb, and also a fresh
salad.

_Time_.--A shoulder of lamb rather more than 1 hour.

_Average cost_, 10s. to 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.


SHOULDER OF LAMB STUFFED.

756. INGREDIENTS.--Shoulder of lamb, forcemeat No. 417, trimmings of
veal or beef, 2 onions, 1/2 head of celery, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, a
few slices of fat bacon, 1 quart of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Take the blade-bone out of a shoulder of lamb, fill up its
place with forcemeat, and sew it up with coarse thread. Put it into a
stewpan with a few slices of bacon under and over the lamb, and add the
remaining ingredients. Stew very gently for rather more than 2 hours.
Reduce the gravy, with which glaze the meat, and serve with peas, stewed
cucumbers, or sorrel sauce.

_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.


LAMB'S SWEETBREADS, LARDED, AND ASPARAGUS (an Entree).

757. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 sweetbreads, 1/2 pint of veal stock, white
pepper and salt to taste, a small bunch of green onions, 1 blade of
pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, 2 eggs, nearly 1/2 pint of
cream, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a very little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water, and put them into a
saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover them, and let them
simmer for 10 minutes; then take them out and put them into cold water.
Now lard them, lay them in a stewpan, add the stock, seasoning, onions,
mace, and a thickening of butter and flour, and stew gently for 1/4 hour
or 20 minutes. Beat up the egg with the cream, to which add the minced
parsley and a very little grated nutmeg. Put this to the other
ingredients; stir it well till quite hot, but do not let it boil after
the cream is added, or it will curdle. Have ready some asparagus-tops,
boiled; add these to the sweetbreads, and serve.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_--3 sweetbreads for 1 entrée.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.


ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS SWEETBREADS (an Entree).

758. INGREDIENTS.--Sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of gravy,
No. 442, 1/2 glass of sherry.

_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in water for an hour, and throw them into
boiling water to render them firm. Let them stew gently for about 1/4
hour, take them out and put them into a cloth to drain all the water
from them. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs,
and either brown them in the oven or before the fire. Have ready the
above quantity of gravy, to which add 1/2 glass of sherry; dish the
sweetbreads, pour the gravy under them, and garnish with water-cresses.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d.
each.

_Sufficient_--3 sweetbreads for 1 entrée.

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.


MUTTON AND LAMB CARVING.

HAUNCH OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON.]

759. A deep cut should, in the first place, be made quite down to the
bone, across the knuckle-end of the joint, along the line 1 to 2. This
will let the gravy escape; and then it should be carved, in not too
thick slices, along the whole length of the haunch, in the direction of
the line from 4 to 3.

[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON.]

LEG OF MUTTON.

760. This homely, but capital English joint, is almost invariably served
at table as shown in the engraving. The carving of it is not very
difficult: the knife should be carried sharply down in the direction of
the line from 1 to 2, and slices taken from either side, as the guests
may desire, some liking the knuckle-end, as well done, and others
preferring the more underdone part. The fat should be sought near the
line 3 to 4. Some connoisseurs are fond of having this joint dished with
the under-side uppermost, so as to get at the finely-grained meat lying
under that part of the meat, known as the Pope's eye; but this is an
extravagant fashion, and one that will hardly find favour in the eyes of
many economical British housewives and housekeepers.


LOIN OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON.]

761. There is one point in connection with carving a loin of mutton
which includes every other; that is, that the joint should be thoroughly
well jointed by the butcher before it is cooked. This knack of jointing
requires practice and the proper tools; and no one but the butcher is
supposed to have these. If the bones be not well jointed, the carving of
a loin of mutton is not a gracious business; whereas, if that has been
attended to, it is an easy and untroublesome task. The knife should be
inserted at fig. 1, and after feeling your way between the bones, it
should be carried sharply in the direction of the line 1 to 2. As there
are some people who prefer the outside cut, while others do not like it,
the question as to their choice of this should be asked.


SADDLE OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON.]

762. Although we have heard, at various intervals, growlings expressed
at the inevitable "saddle of mutton" at the dinner-parties of our middle
classes, yet we doubt whether any other joint is better liked, when it
has been well hung and artistically cooked. There is a diversity of
opinion respecting the mode of sending this joint to table; but it has
only reference to whether or no there shall be any portion of the tail,
or, if so, how many joints of the tail. We ourselves prefer the mode as
shown in our coloured illustration "O;" but others may, upon equally
good grounds, like the way shown in the engraving on this page. Some
trim the tail with a paper frill. The carving is not difficult: it is
usually cut in the direction of the line from 2 to 1, quite down to the
bones, in evenly-sliced pieces. A fashion, however, patronized by some,
is to carve it obliquely, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3; in
which case the joint would be turned round the other way, having the
tail end on the right of the carver.


SHOULDER OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: SHOULDER OF MUTTON.]

763. This is a joint not difficult to carve. The knife should be drawn
from the outer edge of the shoulder in the direction of the line from 1
to 2, until the bone of the shoulder is reached. As many slices as can
be carved in this manner should be taken, and afterwards the meat lying
on either side of the blade-bone should be served, by carving in the
direction of 3 to 4 and 3 to 4. The uppermost side of the shoulder being
now finished, the joint should be turned, and slices taken off along its
whole length. There are some who prefer this under-side of the shoulder
for its juicy flesh, although the grain of the meat is not so fine as
that on the other side.


FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.

[Illustration: FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.]

764. We always think that a good and practised carver delights in the
manipulation of this joint, for there is a little field for his judgment
and dexterity which does not always occur. The separation of the
shoulder from the breast is the first point to be attended to; this is
done by passing the knife lightly round the dotted line, as shown by the
figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, so as to cut through the skin, and then, by
raising with a little force the shoulder, into which the fork should be
firmly fixed, it will come away with just a little more exercise of the
knife. In dividing the shoulder and breast, the carver should take care
not to cut away too much of the meat from the latter, as that would
rather spoil its appearance when the shoulder is removed. The breast and
shoulder being separated, it is usual to lay a small piece of butter,
and sprinkle a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and salt between them; and
when this is melted and incorporated with the meat and gravy, the
shoulder may, as more convenient, be removed into another dish. The,
next operation is to separate the ribs from the brisket, by cutting
through the meat on the line 5 to 6. The joint is then ready to be
served to the guests; the ribs being carved in the direction of the
lines from 9 to 10, and the brisket from 7 to 8. The carver should ask
those at the table what parts they prefer-ribs, brisket, or a piece of
the shoulder.


LEG OF LAMB, LOIN OF LAMB, SADDLE OF LAMB, SHOULDER OF LAMB,

are carved in the same manner as the corresponding joints of mutton.
(_See_ Nos. 760, 761, 762, 763.)




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XVI.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG.

765. THE HOG belongs to the order _Mammalia_, the genus _Sus scrofa_,
and the species _Pachydermata_, or thick-skinned; and its generic
characters are, a small head, with long flexible snout truncated; 42
teeth, divided into 4 upper incisors, converging, 6 lower incisors,
projecting, 2 upper and 2 lower canine, or tusks,--the former short, the
latter projecting, formidable, and sharp, and 14 molars in each jaw;
cloven feet furnished with 4 toes, and tail, small, short, and twisted;
while, in some varieties, this appendage is altogether wanting.

766. FROM THE NUMBER AND POSITION OF THE TEETH, physiologists are
enabled to define the nature and functions of the animal; and from those
of the _Sus_, or hog, it is evident that he is as much a _grinder_ as a
_biter_, or can live as well on vegetable as on animal food; though a
mixture of both is plainly indicated as the character of food most
conducive to the integrity and health of its physical system.

767. THUS THE PIG TRIBE, though not a ruminating mammal, as might be
inferred from the number of its molar teeth, is yet a link between the
_herbivorous_ and the _carnivorous_ tribes, and is consequently what is
known as an _omnivorous_ quadruped; or, in other words, capable of
converting any kind of aliment into nutriment.

768. THOUGH THE HOOF IN THE HOG is, as a general rule, cloven, there are
several remarkable exceptions, as in the species native to Norway,
Illyria, Sardinia, and _formerly_ to the Berkshire variety of the
British domesticated pig, in which the hoof is entire and _un_cleft.

769. WHATEVER DIFFERENCE IN ITS PHYSICAL NATURE, climate and soil may
produce in this animal, his functional characteristics are the same in
whatever part of the world he may be found; and whether in the trackless
forests of South America, the coral isles of Polynesia, the jungles of
India, or the spicy brakes of Sumatra, he is everywhere known for his
gluttony, laziness, and indifference to the character and quality of his
food. And though he occasionally shows an epicure's relish for a
succulent plant or a luscious carrot, which he will discuss with all his
salivary organs keenly excited, he will, the next moment, turn with
equal gusto to some carrion offal that might excite the forbearance of
the unscrupulous cormorant. It is this coarse and repulsive mode of
feeding that has, in every country and language, obtained for him the
opprobrium of being "an unclean animal."

770. IN THE MOSAICAL LAW, the pig is condemned as an unclean beast, and
consequently interdicted to the Israelites, as unfit for human food.
"And the swine, though he divideth the hoof and be cloven-footed, yet he
cheweth not the cud. He is unclean to you."--Lev. xi. 7. Strict,
however, as the law was respecting the cud-chewing and hoof-divided
animals, the Jews, with their usual perversity and violation of the
divine commands, seem afterwards to have ignored the prohibition; for,
unless they ate pork, it is difficult to conceive for what purpose they
kept troves of swine, as from the circumstance recorded in Matthew
xviii. 32, when Jesus was in Galilee, and the devils, cast out of the
two men, were permitted to enter the herd of swine that were feeding on
the hills in the neighbourhood of the Sea of Tiberias, it is very
evident they did. There is only one interpretation by which we can
account for a prohibition that debarred the Jews from so many foods
which we regard as nutritious luxuries, that, being fat and the texture
more hard of digestion than other meats, they were likely, in a hot dry
climate, where vigorous exercise could seldom be taken, to produce
disease, and especially cutaneous affections; indeed, in this light, as
a code of sanitary ethics, the book of Leviticus is the most admirable
system of moral government ever conceived for man's benefit.

771. SETTING HIS COARSE FEEDING AND SLOVENLY HABITS OUT OF THE QUESTION,
there is no domestic animal so profitable or so useful to man as the
much-maligned pig, or any that yields him a more varied or more
luxurious repast. The prolific powers of the pig are extraordinary, even
under the restraint of domestication; but when left to run wild in
favourable situations, as in the islands of the South Pacific, the
result, in a few years, from two animals put on shore and left
undisturbed, is truly surprising; for they breed so fast, and have such
numerous litters, that unless killed off in vast numbers both for the
use of the inhabitants and as fresh provisions for ships' crews, they
would degenerate into vermin. In this country the pig has usually two
litters, or farrows, in a year, the breeding seasons being April and
October; and the period the female goes with her young is about four
months,--16 weeks or 122 days. The number produced at each litter
depends upon the character of the breed; 12 being the average number in
the small variety, and 10 in the large; in the mixed breeds, however,
the average is between 10 and 15, and in some instances has reached as
many as 20. But however few, or however many, young pigs there may be to
the farrow, there is always one who is the dwarf of the family circle, a
poor, little, shrivelled, half-starved anatomy, with a small melancholy
voice, a staggering gait, a woe-begone countenance, and a thread of a
tail, whose existence the complacent mother ignores, his plethoric
brothers and sisters repudiate, and for whose emaciated jaws there is
never a spare or supplemental teat, till one of the favoured
gormandizers, overtaken by momentary oblivion, drops the lacteal
fountain, and gives the little squeaking straggler the chance of a
momentary mouthful. This miserable little object, which may be seen
bringing up the rear of every litter, is called the Tony pig, or the
_Anthony_; so named, it is presumed, from being the one always assigned
to the Church, when tithe was taken in kind; and as St. Anthony was the
patron of husbandry, his name was given in a sort of bitter derision to
the starveling that constituted his dues; for whether there are ten or
fifteen farrows to the litter, the Anthony is always the last of the
family to come into the world.

772. FROM THE GROSSNESS OF HIS FEEDING, the large amount of aliment he
consumes, his gluttonous way of eating it, from his slothful habits,
laziness, and indulgence in sleep, the pig is particularly liable to
disease, and especially indigestion, heartburn, and affections of the
skin.

773. TO COUNTERACT THE CONSEQUENCE OF A VIOLATION OF THE PHYSICAL LAWS,
a powerful monitor in the brain of the pig teaches him to seek for
relief and medicine. To open the pores of his skin, blocked up with mud,
and excite perspiration, he resorts to a tree, a stump, or his
trough--anything rough and angular, and using it as a curry-comb to his
body, obtains the luxury of a scratch and the benefit of cuticular
evaporation; he next proceeds with his long supple snout to grub up
antiscorbutic roots, cooling salads of mallow and dandelion, and,
greatest treat of all, he stumbles on a piece of chalk or a mouthful of
delicious cinder, which, he knows by instinct, is the most sovereign
remedy in the world for that hot, unpleasant sensation he has had all
the morning at his stomach.


774. IT IS A REMARKABLE FACT that, though every one who keeps a pig
knows how prone he is to disease, how that disease injures the quality
of the meat, and how eagerly he pounces on a bit of coal or cinder, or
any coarse dry substance that will adulterate the rich food on which he
lives, and by affording soda to his system, correct the vitiated fluids
of his body,--yet very few have the judgment to act on what they see,
and by supplying the pig with a few shovelfuls of cinders in his sty,
save the necessity of his rooting for what is so needful to his health.
Instead of this, however, and without supplying the animal with what its
instinct craves for, his nostril is bored with a red-hot iron, and a
ring clinched in his nose to prevent rooting for what he feels to be
absolutely necessary for his health; and ignoring the fact that, in a
domestic state at least, the pig lives on the richest of all
food,--scraps of cooked animal substances, boiled vegetables, bread, and
other items, given in that concentrated essence of aliment for a
quadruped called wash, and that he eats to repletion, takes no exercise,
and finally sleeps all the twenty-four hours he is not eating, and then,
when the animal at last seeks for those medicinal aids which would
obviate the evil of such a forcing diet, his keeper, instead of meeting
his animal instinct by human reason, and giving him what he seeks, has
the inhumanity to torture him by a ring, that, keeping up a perpetual
"raw" in the pig's snout, prevents his digging for those corrective
drugs which would remove the evils of his artificial existence.

775. THOUGH SUBJECT TO SO MANY DISEASES, no domestic animal is more
easily kept in health, cleanliness, and comfort, and this without the
necessity of "ringing," or any excessive desire of the hog to roam,
break through his sty, or plough up his _pound_. Whatever the kind of
food may be on which the pig is being fed or fattened, a teaspoonful or
more of salt should always be given in his mess of food, and a little
heap of well-burnt cinders, with occasional bits of chalk, should always
be kept by the side of his trough, as well as a vessel of clean water:
his pound, or the front part of his sty, should be totally free from
straw, the brick flooring being every day swept out and sprinkled with a
layer of sand. His lair, or sleeping apartment, should be well sheltered
by roof and sides from cold, wet, and all changes of weather, and the
bed made up of a good supply of clean straw, sufficiently deep to enable
the pig to burrow his unprotected body beneath it. All the refuse of the
garden, in the shape of roots, leaves, and stalks, should be placed in a
corner of his pound or feeding-chamber, for the delectation of his
leisure moments; and once a week, on the family washing-day, a pail of
warm soap-suds should be taken into his sty, and, by means of a
scrubbing-brush and soap, his back, shoulders, and flanks should be well
cleaned, a pail of clean warm water being thrown over his body at the
conclusion, before he is allowed to retreat to his clean straw to dry
himself. By this means, the excessive nutrition of his aliment will be
corrected, a more perfect digestion insured, and, by opening the pores
of the skin, a more vigorous state of health acquired than could have
been obtained under any other system.

776. WE HAVE ALREADY SAID that no other animal yields man so _many_
kinds and varieties of luxurious food as is supplied to him by the flesh
of the hog differently prepared; for almost every part of the animal,
either fresh, salted, or dried, is used for food; and even those viscera
not so employed are of the utmost utility in a domestic point of view.

777. THOUGH DESTITUTE OF THE HIDE, HORNS, AND HOOFS, constituting the
offal of most domestic animals, the pig is not behind the other mammalia
in its usefulness to man. Its skin, especially that of the boar, from
its extreme closeness of texture, when tanned, is employed for the seats
of saddles, to cover powder, shot, and drinking-flasks; and the hair,
according to its colour, flexibility, and stubbornness, is manufactured
into tooth, nail, and hairbrushes,--others into hat, clothes, and
shoe-brushes; while the longer and finer qualities are made into long
and short brooms and painters' brushes; and a still more rigid
description, under the name of "bristles," are used by the shoemaker as
needles for the passage of his wax-end. Besides so many benefits and
useful services conferred on man by this valuable animal, his fat, in a
commercial sense, is quite as important as his flesh, and brings a price
equal to the best joints in the carcase. This fat is rendered, or melted
out of the caul, or membrane in which it is contained, by boiling water,
and, while liquid, run into prepared bladders, when, under the name of
_lard_, it becomes an article of extensive trade and value.

778. OF THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES OF THE DOMESTICATED HOG, the following
list of breeds may be accepted as the best, presenting severally all
those qualities aimed at in the rearing of domestic stock, as affecting
both the breeder and the consumer. _Native_--Berkshire, Essex, York, and
Cumberland; _Foreign_--the Chinese. Before, however, proceeding with the
consideration of the different orders, in the series we have placed
them, it will be necessary to make a few remarks relative to the pig
generally. In the first place, the _Black Pig_ is regarded by breeders
as the best and most eligible animal, not only from the fineness and
delicacy of the skin, but because it is less affected by the heat in
summer, and far less subject to cuticular disease than either the white
or brindled hog, but more particularly from its kindlier nature and
greater aptitude to fatten.

779. THE GREAT QUALITY FIRST SOUGHT FOR IN A HOG is a capacious stomach,
and next, a healthy power of digestion; for the greater the quantity he
can eat, and the more rapidly he can digest what he has eaten, the more
quickly will he fatten; and the faster he can be made to increase in
flesh, without a material increase of bone, the better is the breed
considered, and the more valuable the animal. In the usual order of
nature, the development of flesh and enlargement of bone proceed
together; but here the object is to outstrip the growth of the bones by
the quicker development of their fleshy covering.

780. THE CHIEF POINTS SOUGHT FOR IN THE CHOICE OF A HOG are breadth of
chest, depth of carcase, width of loin, chine, and ribs, compactness of
form, docility, cheerfulness, and general beauty of appearance. The head
in a well-bred hog must not be too long, the forehead narrow and convex,
cheeks full, snout fine, mouth small, eyes small and quick, ears short,
thin, and sharp, pendulous, and pointing forwards; neck full and broad,
particularly on the top, where it should join very broad shoulders; the
ribs, loin, and haunch should be in a uniform line, and the tail well
set, neither too high nor too low; at the same time the back is to be
straight or slightly curved, the chest deep, broad, and prominent, the
legs short and thick; the belly, when well fattened, should nearly touch
the ground, the hair be long, thin, fine, and having few bristles, and
whatever the colour, uniform, either white, black, or blue; but not
spotted, speckled, brindled, or sandy. Such are the features and
requisites that, among breeders and judges, constitute the _beau idéal_
of a perfect pig.

[Illustration: BERKSHIRE SOW.]

781. THE BERKSHIRE PIG IS THE BEST KNOWN AND MOST ESTEEMED of all our
English domestic breeds, and so highly is it regarded, that even the
varieties of the stock are in as great estimation as the parent breed
itself. The characteristics of the Berkshire hog are that it has a tawny
colour, spotted with black, large ears hanging over the eyes, a thick,
close, and well-made body, legs short and small in the bone; feeds up to
a great weight, fattens quickly, and is good either for pork or bacon.
The New or Improved Berkshire possesses all the above qualities, but is
infinitely more prone to fatten, while the objectionable colour has been
entirely done away with, being now either all white or completely black.

[Illustration: ESSEX SOW.]

782. NEXT TO THE FORMER, THE ESSEX takes place in public estimation,
always competing, and often successfully, with the Berkshire. The
peculiar characters of the Essex breed are that it is tip-eared, has a
long sharp head, is roach-backed, with a long flat body, standing high
on the legs; is rather bare of hair, is a quick feeder, has an enormous
capacity of stomach and belly, and an appetite to match its receiving
capability. Its colour is white, or else black and white, and it has a
restless habit and an unquiet disposition. The present valuable stock
has sprung from a cross between the common native animal and either the
White Chinese or Black Neapolitan breeds.

[Illustration: YORKSHIRE SOW.]

783. THE YORKSHIRE, CALLED ALSO THE OLD LINCOLNSHIRE, was at one time
the largest stock of the pig family in England, and perhaps, at that
time, the worst. It was long-legged, weak in the loins, with coarse
white curly hair, and flabby flesh. Now, however, it has undergone as
great a change as any breed in the kingdom, and by judicious crossing
has become the most valuable we possess, being a very well-formed pig
throughout, with a good head, a pleasant docile countenance, with
moderate-sized drooping ears, a broad back, slightly curved, large chine
and loins, with deep sides, full chest, and well covered with long
thickly-set white hairs. Besides these qualities of form, he is a quick
grower, feeds fast, and will easily make from 20 to 25 stone before
completing his first year. The quality of the meat is also uncommonly
good, the fat and lean being laid on in almost equal proportions. So
capable is this species of development, both in flesh and stature, that
examples of the Yorkshire breed have been exhibited weighing as much as
a Scotch ox.

[Illustration: CUMBERLAND SOW.]

784. THOUGH ALMOST EVERY COUNTRY IN ENGLAND can boast some local variety
or other of this useful animal, obtained from the native stock by
crossing with some of the foreign kinds, Cumberland and the north-west
parts of the kingdom have been celebrated for a small breed of white
pigs, with a thick, compact, and well-made body, short in the legs, the
head and back well formed, ears slouching and a little downwards, and on
the whole, a hardy, profitable animal, and one well disposed to fatten.

785. THERE IS NO VARIETY OF THIS USEFUL ANIMAL that presents such
peculiar features as the species known to us as the Chinese pig; and as
it is the general belief that to this animal and the Neapolitan hog we
are indebted for that remarkable improvement which has taken place in
the breeds of the English pig, it is necessary to be minute in the
description of this, in all respects, singular animal. The Chinese, in
the first place, consists of many varieties, and presents as many forms
of body as differences of colour; the best kind, however, has a
beautiful white skin of singular thinness and delicacy; the hair too is
perfectly white, and thinly set over the body, with here and there a few
bristles. He has a broad snout, short head, eyes bright and fiery, very
small fine pink ears, wide cheeks, high chine, with a neck of such
immense thickness, that when the animal is fat it looks like an
elongated carcase,--a mass of fat, without shape or form, like a feather
pillow. The belly is dependent, and almost trailing on the ground, the
legs very short, and the tail so small as to be little more than a
rudiment. It has a ravenous appetite, and will eat anything that the
wonderful assimilating powers of its stomach can digest; and to that
capability, there seems no limit in the whole range of animal or
vegetable nature. The consequence of this perfect and singularly rapid
digestion is an unprecedented proneness to obesity, a process of
fattening that, once commenced, goes on with such rapid development,
that, in a short time, it loses all form, depositing such an amount of
fat, that it in fact ceases to have any refuse part or offal, and,
beyond the hair on its back and the callous extremity of the snout, _the
whole carcase is eatable_.

[Illustration: CHINESE SOW.]

786. WHEN JUDICIOUSLY FED ON VEGETABLE DIET, and this obese tendency
checked, the flesh of the Chinese pig is extremely delicate and
delicious; but when left to gorge almost exclusively on animal food, it
becomes oily, coarse, and unpleasant. Perhaps there is no other instance
in nature where the effect of rapid and perfect digestion is so well
shown as in this animal, which thrives on _everything_, and turns to the
benefit of its physical economy, food of the most _opposite nature_, and
of the most unwholesome and _offensive_ character. When fully fattened,
the thin cuticle, that is one of its characteristics, cracks, from the
adipose distension beneath, exposing the fatty mass, which discharges a
liquid oil from the adjacent tissues. The great fault in this breed is
the remarkably small quantity of lean laid down, to the immense
proportion of fat. Some idea of the growth of this species may be
inferred from the fact of their attaining to 18 stone before two years,
and when further advanced, as much as 40 stone. In its pure state,
except for roasters, the Chinese pig is too disproportionate for the
English market; but when crossed with some of our lean stock, the breed
becomes almost invaluable.

[Illustration: WESTPHALIAN BOAR.]

787. THE WILD BOAR is a much more cleanly and sagacious animal than the
domesticated hog; he is longer in the snout, has his ears shorter and
his tusks considerably longer, very frequently measuring as much as 10
inches. They are extremely sharp, and are bent in an upward circle.
Unlike his domestic brother, who roots up here and there, or wherever
his fancy takes, the wild boar ploughs the ground in continuous lines or
furrows. The boar, when selected as the parent of a stock, should have a
small head, be deep and broad in the chest; the chine should be arched,
the ribs and barrel well rounded, with the haunches falling full down
nearly to the hock; and he should always be more compact and smaller
than the female. The colour of the wild boar is always of a uniform hue,
and generally of an iron grey; shading off into a black. The hair of the
boar is of considerable length, especially about the head and mane; he
stands, in general, from 20 to 30 inches in height at the shoulders,
though instances have occurred where he has reached 42 inches. The young
are of a pale yellowish tint, irregularly brindled with light brown. The
boar of Germany is a large and formidable animal, and the hunting of
him, with a small species of mastiff, is still a national sport. From
living almost exclusively on acorns and nuts, his flesh is held in great
esteem, and in Westphalia his legs are made into hams by a process
which, it is said, enhances the flavour and quality of the meat in a
remarkable degree.

788. THERE ARE TWO POINTS to be taken into consideration by all breeders
of pigs--to what ultimate use is the flesh to be put; for, if meant to
be eaten fresh, or simply salted, the _small_ breed of pigs is host
suited for the purpose; if for hams or bacon, the large variety of the
animal is necessary. Pigs are usually weaned between six and eight weeks
after birth, after which they are fed on soft food, such as mashed
potatoes in skimmed or butter-milk. The general period at which the
small hogs are killed for the market is from 12 to 16 weeks; from 4 to 5
mouths, they are called store pigs, and are turned out to graze till the
animal has acquired its full stature. As soon as this point has been
reached, the pig should be forced to maturity as quickly as possible; he
should therefore be taken from the fields and farm-yard, and shut up on
boiled potatoes, buttermilk, and peas-meal, after a time to be followed
by grains, oil-cake, wash, barley, and Indian meal; supplying his sty at
the same time with plenty of water, cinders, and a quantity of salt in
every mess of food presented to him.

789. THE ESTIMATED NUMBER OF PIGS IN GREAT BRITAIN is supposed to exceed
20 millions; and, considering the third of the number as worth £2
apiece, and the remaining two-thirds as of the relative value of _10s_.
each, would give a marketable estimate of over £20,000,000 for this
animal alone.

790. THE BEST AND MOST HUMANE MODE OF KILLING ALL LARGE HOGS is to
strike them down like a bullock, with the pointed end of a poleaxe, on
the forehead, which has the effect of killing the animal at once; all
the butcher has then to do, is to open the aorta and great arteries, and
laying the animal's neck over a trough, let out the blood as quickly as
possible. The carcase is then to be scalded, either on a board or by
immersion in a tub of very hot water, and all the hair and dirt rapidly
scraped off, till the skin is made perfectly white, when it is hung up,
opened, and dressed, as it is called, in the usual way. It is then
allowed to cool, a sheet being thrown around the carcase, to prevent the
air from discolouring the newly-cleaned skin. When meant for bacon, the
hair is singed instead of being scalded off.

791. IN THE COUNTRY, where for ordinary consumption the pork killed for
sale is usually both larger and fatter than that supplied to the London
consumer, it is customary to remove the skin and fat down to the lean,
and, salting that, roast what remains of the joint. Pork goes further,
and is consequently a more economical food than other meats, simply
because the texture is closer, and there is less waste in the cooking,
either in roasting or boiling.

792. IN FRESH PORK, the leg is the most economical family joint, and the
loin the richest.

793. COMPARATIVELY SPEAKING, very little difference exists between the
weight of the live and dead pig, and this, simply because there is
neither the head nor the hide to be removed. It has been proved that
pork loses in cooking 13-1/2, per cent. of its weight. A salted hand
weighing 4 lbs. 5 oz. lost in the cooking 11 oz.; after cooking, the
meat weighing only 3 lbs. 1 oz., and the bone 9 oz. The original cost
was 7-1/2d. a pound; but by this deduction, the cost rose to 9d. per
pound with the bone, and 10-1/4d. without it.

794. PORK, TO BE PRESERVED, is cured in several ways,--either by
covering it with salt, or immersing it in ready-made brine, where it is
kept till required; or it is only partially salted, and then hung up to
dry, when the meat is called white bacon; or, after salting, it is hung
in wood smoke till the flesh is impregnated with the aroma from the
wood. The Wiltshire bacon, which is regarded as the finest in the
kingdom, is prepared by laying the sides of a hog in large wooden
troughs, and then rubbing into the flesh quantities of powdered
bay-salt, made hot in a frying-pan. This process is repeated for four
days; they are then left for three weeks, merely turning the flitches
every other day. After that time they are hung up to dry. The hogs
usually killed for purposes of bacon in England average from 18 to 20
stone; on the other hand, the hogs killed in the country for farm-house
purposes, seldom weigh less than 26 stone. The legs of boars, hogs, and,
in Germany, those of bears, are prepared differently, and called hams.

795. THE PRACTICE IN VOGUE FORMERLY in this country was to cut out the
hams and cure them separately; then to remove the ribs, which were
roasted as "spare-ribs," and, curing the remainder of the side, call it
a "gammon of bacon."

Small pork to cut for table in joints, is cut up, in most places
throughout the kingdom, as represented in the engraving. The sale is
divided with nine ribs to the fore quarter; and the following is an
enumeration of the joints in the two respective quarters:--

                 1. The leg.
  HIND QUARTER   2. The loin.
                 3. The spring, or belly.

                 4. The hand.
  FORE QUARTER   5. The fore-loin.
                 6. The cheek.

[Illustration: SIDE OF A PIG, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]

The weight of the several joints of a good pork pig of four stone may be
as follows; viz.:--

  The leg                        8 lbs.
  The loin and spring            7 lbs.
  The hand                       6 lbs.
  The chine                      7 lbs.
  The cheek            from 2 to 3 lbs.

Of a bacon pig, the legs are reserved for curing, and when cured are
called hams: when the meat is separated from the shoulder-blade and
bones and cured, it is called bacon. The bones, with part of the meat
left on them, are divided into spare-ribs, griskins, and chines.




CHAPTER XVII.


PORK CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery).

796. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast loin of pork, 1 oz. of
butter, 2 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper
and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar and mustard.

_Mode_.--Cut the pork into nice-sized cutlets, trim off most of the fat,
and chop the onions. Put the butter into a stewpan, lay in the cutlets
and chopped onions, and fry a light brown; then add the remaining
ingredients, simmer gently for 5 or 7 minutes, and serve.

_Time_.--5 to 7 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.

    AUSTRIAN METHOD OF HERDING PIGS.--In the Austrian empire there
    are great numbers of wild swine, while, among the wandering
    tribes peopling the interior of Hungary, and spreading over the
    vast steppes of that country, droves of swine form a great
    portion of the wealth of the people, who chiefly live on a
    coarse bread and wind-dried bacon.

    In German Switzerland, the Tyrol, and other mountainous
    districts of continental Europe, though the inhabitants, almost
    everywhere, as in England, keep one or more pigs, they are at
    little or no trouble in feeding them, one or more men being
    employed by one or several villages as swine-herds; who, at a
    certain hour, every morning, call for the pig or pigs, and
    driving them to their feeding-grounds on the mountain-side and
    in the wood, take custody of the herd till, on the approach of
    night, they are collected into a compact body and driven home
    for a night's repose in their several sties.

    The amount of intelligence and docility displayed by the pigs in
    these mountain regions, is much more considerable than that
    usually allowed to this animal, and the manner in which these
    immense herds of swine are collected, and again distributed,
    without an accident or mistake, is a sight both curious and
    interesting; for it is all done without the assistance of a dog,
    or the aid even of the human voice, and solely by the crack of
    the long-lashed and heavily-loaded whip, which the swine-herd
    carries, and cracks much after the fashion of the French
    postilion; and which, though he frequently cracks, waking a
    hundred sharp echoes from the woods and rocks, he seldom has to
    use correctionally; the animal soon acquiring a thorough
    knowledge of the meaning of each crack; and once having felt its
    leaded thong, a lasting remembrance of its power. At early dawn,
    the swine-herd takes his stand at the outskirts of the first
    village, and begins flourishing through the misty air his
    immensely long lash, keeping a sort of rude time with the crack,
    crack, crack, crack, crack, crack of his whip. The nearest pigs,
    hearing the well-remembered sound, rouse from their straw, and
    rush from their sties into the road, followed by all their
    litters. As soon as a sufficient number are collected, the drove
    is set in motion, receiving, right and left, as they advance,
    fresh numbers; whole communities, or solitary individuals,
    streaming in from all quarters, and taking their place, without
    distinction, in the general herd; and, as if conscious where
    their breakfast lay, without wasting a moment on idle
    investigation, all eagerly push on to the mountains. In this
    manner village after village is collected, till the drove not
    unfrequently consists of several thousands. The feeding-ground
    has, of course, often to be changed, and the drove have
    sometimes to be driven many miles, and to a considerable height
    up the mountain, before the whip gives the signal for the
    dispersion of the body and the order to feed, when the herdsman
    proceeds to form himself a shelter, and look after his own
    comfort for the rest of the day. As soon as twilight sets in,
    the whip is again heard echoing the signal for muster; and in
    the same order in which they were collected, the swine are
    driven back, each group tailing off to its respective sty, as
    the herd approaches the villages, till the last grunter, having
    found his home, the drover seeks his cottage and repose.

PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS.

I.

797. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of pork, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets from a delicate loin of pork, bone and trim
them neatly, and cut away the greater portion of the fat. Season them
with pepper; place the gridiron on the fire; when quite hot, lay on the
chops and broil them for about 1/4 hour, turning them 3 or 4 times; and
be particular that they are _thoroughly_ done, but not dry. Dish them,
sprinkle over a little fine salt, and serve plain, or with tomato sauce,
sauce piquante, or pickled gherkins, a few of which should be laid round
the dish as a garnish.

_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for chops.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 6 for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.


II.

(_Another Way_.)

798. INGREDIENTS.--Loin or fore-loin, of pork, egg and bread crumbs,
salt and pepper to taste; to every tablespoonful of bread crumbs allow
1/2 teaspoonful of minced sage; clarified butter.

_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets from a loin, or fore-loin, of pork; trim them
the same as mutton cutlets, and scrape the top part of the bone. Brush
them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been
mixed minced sage and a seasoning of pepper and salt; drop a little
clarified butter on them, and press the crumbs well down. Put the
frying-pan on the fire, put in some lard; when this is hot, lay in the
cutlets, and fry them a light brown on both sides. Take them out, put
them before the fire to dry the greasy moisture from them, and dish them
on mashed potatoes. Serve with them any sauce that may be preferred;
such as tomato sauce, sauce piquante, sauce Robert, or pickled gherkins.

_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for chops.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 6 cutlets for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.

_Note_.--The remains of roast loin of pork may be dressed in the same
manner.


PORK CHEESE (an Excellent Breakfast Dish).

799. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of cold roast pork, pepper and salt to taste,
1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 4 leaves of sage, a very small
bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, a little nutmeg, 1/2
teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel; good strong gravy, sufficient to fill
the mould.

_Mode_.--Cut, but do not chop, the pork into fine pieces, and allow 1/4
lb. of fat to each pound of lean. Season with pepper and salt; pound
well the spices, and chop finely the parsley, sage, herbs, and
lemon-peel, and mix the whole nicely together. Put it into a mould, fill
up with good strong well-flavoured gravy, and bake rather more than one
hour. When cold, turn it out of the mould.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.


ROAST LEG OF PORK.

[Illustration: ROAST LEG OF PORK.]

800. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of pork, a little oil for stuffing. (See Recipe
No. 504.)

_Mode_.--Choose a small leg of pork, and score the skin across in narrow
strips, about 1/4 inch apart. Cut a slit in the knuckle, loosen the
skin, and fill it with a sage-and-onion stuffing, made by Recipe No.
504. Brush the joint over with a little salad-oil (this makes the
crackling crisper, and a better colour), and put it down to a bright,
clear fire, not too near, as that would cause the skin to blister. Baste
it well, and serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan, and do
not omit to send to table with it a tureen of well-made apple-sauce.
(Sec No. 363.)

_Time_.--A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., about 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

    ENGLISH MODE OF HUNTING, AND INDIAN PIG-STICKING.--The hunting
    of the wild boar has been in all times, and in all countries, a
    pastime of the highest interest and excitement, and from the age
    of Nimrod, has only been considered second to the more dangerous
    sport of lion-hunting. The buried treasures of Nineveh, restored
    to us by Mr. Layard, show us, on their sculptured annals, the
    kings of Assyria in their royal pastime of boar-hunting. That
    the Greeks were passionately attached to this sport, we know
    both from history and the romantic fables of the poets. Marc
    Antony, at one of his breakfasts with Cleopatra, had _eight wild
    boars_ roasted whole; and though the Romans do not appear to
    have been addicted to hunting, wild-boar fights formed part of
    their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre. In France,
    Germany, and Britain, from the earliest time, the boar-hunt
    formed one of the most exciting of sports; but it was only in
    this country that the sport was conducted without dogs,--a real
    hand-to-hand contest of man and beast; the hunter, armed only
    with a boar-spear, a weapon about four feet long, the ash staff,
    guarded by plates of steel, and terminating in a long, narrow,
    and very sharp blade: this, with a hunting-knife, or hanger,
    completed his offensive arms. Thus equipped, the hunter would
    either encounter his enemy face to face, confront his desperate
    charge, as with erect tail, depressed head, and flaming eyes, he
    rushed with his foamy tusks full against him, who either sought
    to pierce his vitals through his counter, or driving his spear
    through his chine, transfix his heart; or failing those more
    difficult aims, plunge it into his flank, and, without
    withdrawing the weapon, strike his ready hanger into his throat.
    But expert as the hunter might be, it was not often the
    formidable brute was so quickly dispatched; for he would
    sometimes seize the spear in his powerful teeth, and nip it off
    like a reed, or, coming full tilt on his enemy, by his momentum
    and weight bear him to the earth, ripping up, with a horrid
    gash, his leg or side, and before the writhing hunter could draw
    his knife, the infuriated beast would plunge his snout in the
    wound, and rip, with savage teeth, the bowels of his victim. At
    other times, he would suddenly swerve from his charge, and
    doubling on his opponent, attack the hunter in the rear. From
    his speed, great weight, and savage disposition, the wild boar
    is always a dangerous antagonist, and requires great courage,
    coolness, and agility on the part of the hunter. The continental
    sportsman rides to the chase in a cavalcade, with music and
    dogs,--a kind of small hound or mastiff, and leaving all the
    honorary part of the contest to them, when the boar is becoming
    weary, and while beset by the dogs, rides up, and drives his
    lance home in the beast's back or side. Boar-hunting has been
    for some centuries obsolete in England, the animal no longer
    existing in a wild state among us; but in our Indian empire, and
    especially in Bengal, the pastime is pursued by our countrymen
    with all the daring of the national character; and as the animal
    which inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles is a formidable foe,
    the sport is attended with great excitement. The hunters,
    mounted on small, active horses, and armed only with long
    lances, ride, at early daylight, to the skirts of the jungle,
    and having sent in their attendants to beat the cover, wait till
    the tusked monster comes crashing from among the canes, when
    chase is immediately given, till he is come up with, and
    transfixed by the first weapon. Instead of flight, however, he
    often turns to bay, and by more than one dead horse and wounded
    hunter, shows how formidable he is, and what those polished
    tusks, sharp as pitch-forks, can effect, when the enraged animal
    defends his life.

TO GLAZE HAM.--(See Recipe No. 430.)

HASHED PORK.

801. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast pork, 2 onions, 1
teaspoonful of flour, 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 1
tablespoonful of vinegar, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Chop the onions and fry them of a nice brown, cut the pork into
thin slices, season them with pepper and salt, and add these to the
remaining ingredients. Stew gently for about 1/2 hour, and serve
garnished with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 3d.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.


FRIED RASHERS OF BACON AND POACHED EGGS.

802. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon; eggs.

_Mode_.--Cut the bacon into thin slices, trim away the rusty parts, and
cut off the rind. Put it into a cold frying-pan, that is to say, do not
place the pan on the fire before the bacon is in it. Turn it 2 or 3
times, and dish it on a very hot dish. Poach the eggs and slip them on
to the bacon, without breaking the yolks, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the
primest parts.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 6 eggs for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Fried rashers of bacon, curled, serve as a pretty garnish to
many dishes; and, for small families, answer very well as a substitute
for boiled bacon, to serve with a small dish of poultry, &c.


BROILED RASHERS OF BACON (a Breakfast Dish).

803. Before purchasing bacon, ascertain that it is perfectly free from
rust, which may easily be detected by its yellow colour; and for
broiling, the streaked part of the thick flank, is generally the most
esteemed. Cut it into _thin_ slices, take off the rind, and broil over a
nice clear fire; turn it 2 or 3 times, and serve very hot. Should there
be any cold bacon left from the previous day, it answers very well for
breakfast, cut into slices, and broiled or fried.

_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--When the bacon is cut very thin, the slices may be curled round
and fastened by means of small skewers, and fried or toasted before the
fire.


BOILED BACON.

804. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon; water.

[Illustration: BOILED BACON.]

_Mode_.--As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked in
warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it; then pare off the
rusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible.
Put it into a saucepan of _cold_ water, let it come gradually to a boil,
and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water, remove it.
Let it simmer very gently until it is _thoroughly_ done; then take it
up, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread
raspings, and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts.
When served alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are the
usual accompaniments.

_Time_.--1 lb. of bacon, 1/4 hour; 2 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts.

_Sufficient_.--2 lbs., when served with poultry or veal, sufficient for
10 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TO CURE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY.

805. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of coarse sugar, 1-1/2 lb. of bay-salt, 6
oz. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt.

_Mode_.--Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off for
24 hours; then pound and mix the above ingredients well together and rub
it well into the meat, which should be turned every day for a month;
then hang it to dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days.

_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 1 month, to be smoked 10 days.

_Sufficient_.--The above quantity of salt for 1 pig.

    HOW PIGS WERE FORMERLY PASTURED AND FED.--Though unquestionably
    far greater numbers of swine are now kept in England than
    formerly, every peasant having one or more of that useful
    animal, in feudal times immense droves of pigs were kept by the
    franklings and barons; in those days the swine-herds being a
    regular part of the domestic service of every feudal household,
    their duty consisted in daily driving the herd of swine from the
    castle-yard, or outlying farm, to the nearest woods, chase, or
    forest, where the frankling or vavasour had, either by right or
    grant, what was called _free warren_, or the liberty to feed his
    hogs off the acorns, beech, and chestnuts that lay in such
    abundance on the earth, and far exceeded the power of the royal
    or privileged game to consume. Indeed, it was the license
    granted the nobles of free warren, especially for their swine,
    that kept up the iniquitous forest laws to so late a date, and
    covered so large a portion of the land with such immense tracts
    of wood and brake, to the injury of agriculture and the misery
    of the people. Some idea of the extent to which swine were
    grazed in the feudal times, may be formed by observing the
    number of pigs still fed in Epping Forest, the Forest of Dean,
    and the New Forest, in Hampshire, where, for several months of
    the year, the beech-nuts and acorns yield them so plentiful a
    diet. In Germany, where the chestnut is so largely cultivated,
    the amount of food shed every autumn is enormous; and
    consequently the pig, both wild and domestic, has, for a
    considerable portion of the year, an unfailing supply of
    admirable nourishment. Impressed with the value of this fruit
    for the food of pigs, the Prince Consort has, with great
    judgment, of late encouraged the collection of chestnuts in
    Windsor Park, and by giving a small reward to old people and
    children for every bushel collected, has not only found an
    occupation for many of the unemployed poor, but, by providing a
    gratuitous food for their pig, encouraged a feeling of
    providence and economy.

FOR CURING BACON, AND KEEPING IT FREE FROM RUST (Cobbett's Recipe).

806. THE TWO SIDES THAT REMAIN, and which are called flitches, are to be
cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or
flesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, in
a salting-trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the
brine; for, to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not be
sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of vile taste that barrel and
sea pork have. Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh dry
salt from that of salt in a dissolved state; therefore change the salt
often,--once in 4 or 5 days; let it melt and sink in, but not lie too
long; twice change the flitches, put that at bottom which was first on
the top: this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the
sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine,
nor keep so well. As for the time required in making your flitches
sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances. It takes a longer time
for a thick than a thin flitch, and longer in dry than in damp weather,
or in a dry than in a damp place; but for the flitches of a hog of five
score, in weather not very dry or damp, about 6 weeks may do; and as
yours is to be fat, which receives little injury from over-salting, give
time enough, for you are to have bacon until Christmas comes again.

807. THE PLACE FOR SALTING SHOULD, like a dairy, always be cool, but
well ventilated; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner than
the midday day sun accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking the
bacon, two precautions are necessary: first, to hang the flitches where
no rain comes down upon them; and next, that the smoke must proceed from
wood, not peat, turf, or coal. As to the time required to smoke a
flitch, it depends a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire
beneath; and whether the fire be large or small: a month will do, if the
fire be pretty constant and rich, as a farmhouse fire usually is; but
over-smoking, or rather too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon
rust; great attention should therefore be paid to this matter. The
flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it
ought to be perfectly dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor,
scatter the flesh side pretty thickly over with bran, or with some fine
sawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down
upon it: this keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, and
makes a sort of crust to be dried on.

808. To KEEP THE BACON SWEET AND GOOD, and free from hoppers, sift fine
some clean and dry wood ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or chest
long enough to hold a flitch of bacon; lay in one flitch, and then put
in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or eight
inches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought to
be dry, and should the ashes become damp, they should be put in the
fireplace to dry, and when cold, put back again. With these precautions,
the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first day.

809. FOR SIMPLE GENERAL RULES; these may be safely taken as a guide; and
those who implicitly follow the directions given, will possess at the
expiration of from 6 weeks to 2 months well-flavoured and well-cured
bacon.

    HOG NOT BACON. ANECDOTE OF LORD BACON.--As Lord Bacon, on one
    occasion, was about to pass sentence of death upon a man of the
    name of Hogg, who had just been tried for a long career of
    crime, the prisoner suddenly claimed to be heard in arrest of
    judgment, saying, with an expression of arch confidence as he
    addressed the bench, "I claim indulgence, my lord, on the plea
    of relationship; for I am convinced your lordship will never be
    unnatural enough to hang one of your own family."

    "Indeed, replied the judge, with some amazement," I was not
    aware that I had the honour of your alliance; perhaps you will
    be good enough to name the degree of our mutual affinity."

    "I am sorry, my lord," returned the impudent thief, "I cannot
    trace the links of consanguinity; but the moral evidence is
    sufficiently pertinent. My name, my lord, is Hogg, your
    lordship's is Bacon; and all the world will allow that bacon and
    hog are very closely allied."

    "I am sorry," replied his lordship, "I cannot admit the truth of
    your instance: hog cannot be bacon till it is hanged; and so,
    before I can admit your plea, or acknowledge the family compact,
    Hogg must be hanged to-morrow morning."

TO BAKE A HAM.

810. INGREDIENTS.--Ham; a common crust.

Mode.--As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain in water
for at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rusty places
underneath, and cover it with a common crust, taking care that this is
of sufficient thickness all over to keep the gravy in. Place it in a
moderately-heated oven, and bake for nearly 4 hours. Take off the crust,
and skin, and cover with raspings, the same as for boiled ham, and
garnish the knuckle with a paper frill. This method of cooking a ham is,
by many persons, considered far superior to boiling it, as it cuts
fuller of gravy and has a finer flavour, besides keeping a much longer
time good.

_Time_.--A medium-sized ham, 4 hours.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.

_Seasonable_ all the year.


TO BOIL A HAM.

[Illustration: BOILED HAM.]

811. INGREDIENTS.--Ham, water, glaze or raspings.

_Mode_.--In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by
running a sharp knife into it, close to the bone; and if, when the knife
is withdrawn, it has an agreeable smell, the ham is good; if, on the
contrary, the blade has a greasy appearance and offensive smell, the ham
is bad. If it has been long hung, and is very dry and salt, let it
remain in soak for 24 hours, changing the water frequently. This length
of time is only necessary in the case of its being very hard; from 8 to
12 hours would be sufficient for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham. Wash
it thoroughly clean, and trim away from the under-side, all the rusty
and smoked parts, which would spoil the appearance. Put it into a
boiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to cover it; bring it gradually
to boil, and as the scum rises, carefully remove it. Keep it simmering
very gently until tender, and be careful that it does not stop boiling,
nor boil too quickly. When done, take it out of the pot, strip off the
skin, and sprinkle over it a few fine bread-raspings, put a frill of cut
paper round the knuckle, and serve. If to be eaten cold, let the ham
remain in the water until nearly cold: by this method the juices are
kept in, and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken out of
the water hot; it should, however, be borne in mind that the ham must
_not_ remain in the saucepan _all_ night. When the skin is removed,
sprinkle over bread-raspings, or, if wanted particularly nice, glaze it.
Place a paper frill round the knuckle, and garnish with parsley or cut
vegetable flowers. (_See_ Coloured Plate P.)

_Time_.--A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours to _simmer gently_; 15 lbs., 5
hours; a very large one, about 5 hours.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.

_Seasonable_ all the year.


HOW TO BOIL A HAM TO GIVE IT AN EXCELLENT FLAVOUR.

812. INGREDIENTS.--Vinegar and water, 2 heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3
onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs.

_Mode_.--Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak for
a few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and when it
boils, add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer very gently until tender,
take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put a
paper ruche or frill round the knuckle.

_Time_.--A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    HOW TO SILENCE A PIG. ANECDOTE OF CHARLES V.--When the emperor
    Charles V. was one day walking in the neighbourhood of Vienna,
    full of pious considerations, engendered by the thoughts of the
    Dominican cloister he was about to visit, he was much annoyed by
    the noise of a pig, which a country youth was carrying a little
    way before him. At length, irritated by the unmitigated noise,
    "Have you not learned how to quiet a pig" demanded the imperial
    traveller, tartly. "Noa," replied the ingenuous peasant,
    ignorant of the quality of his interrogator;--"noa; and I should
    very much like to know how to do it," changing the position of
    his burthen, and giving his load a surreptitious pinch of the
    ear, which immediately altered the tone and volume of his
    complaining.

    "Why, take the pig by the tail," said the emperor, "and you will
    see how quiet he will become."

    Struck by the novelty of the suggestion, the countryman at once
    dangled his noisy companion by the tail, and soon discovered
    that, under the partial congestion caused by its inverted
    position, the pig had indeed become silent; when, looking with
    admiration on his august adviser, he exclaimed,--

    "Ah, you must have learned the trade much longer than I, for you
    understand it a great deal better."

FRIED HAM AND EGGS (a Breakfast Dish).

813. INGREDIENTS.--Ham; eggs.

_Mode_.--Cut the ham into slices, and take care that they are of the
same thickness in every part. Cut off the rind, and if the ham should be
particularly hard and salt, it will be found an improvement to soak it
for about 10 minutes in hot water, and then dry it in a cloth. Put it
into a cold frying-pan, set it over the fire, and turn the slices 3 or 4
times whilst they are cooking. When done, place them on a dish, which
should be kept hot in front of the fire during the time the eggs are
being poached. Poach the eggs, slip them on to the slices of ham, and
serve quickly.

_Time_.--7 or 8 minutes to broil the ham.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Ham may also be toasted or broiled; but, with the latter
method, to insure its being well cooked, the fire must be beautifully
clear, or it will have a smoky flavour far from agreeable.

POTTED HAM, that will keep Good for some time.

I.

814. INGREDIENTS.--To 4 lbs. of lean ham allow 1 lb. of fat, 2
teaspoonfuls of pounded mace, 1/2 nutmeg grated, rather more than 1/2
teaspoonful of cayenne, clarified lard.

_Mode_.--Mince the ham, fat and lean together in the above proportion,
and pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper, pounded
mace, and nutmeg; put the mixture into a deep baking-dish, and bake for
1/2 hour; then press it well into a stone jar, fill up the jar with
clarified lard, cover it closely, and paste over it a piece of thick
paper. If well seasoned, it will keep a long time in winter, and will be
found very convenient for sandwiches, &c.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

II.

(_A nice addition to the Breakfast or Luncheon table_.)

815. INGREDIENTS.--To 2 lbs. of lean ham allow 1/2 lb. of fat, 1
teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/2
nutmeg, pepper to taste, clarified butter.

_Mode_.--Cut some slices from the remains of a cold ham, mince them
small, and to every 2 lbs. of lean, allow the above proportion of fat.
Pound the ham in a mortar to a fine paste, with the fat, gradually add
the seasoning and spices, and be very particular that all the
ingredients are well mixed and the spices well pounded. Press the
mixture into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep it in a
cool place.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    IMPORTANCE OF THE BOAR'S HEAD, SCOTTISH FEUDS, &c.--The boar's
    head, in ancient times, formed the most important dish on the
    table, and was invariably the first placed on the board upon
    Christmas-day, being preceded by a body of servitors, a flourish
    of trumpets, and other marks of distinction and reverence, and
    carried into the hall by the individual of next rank to the lord
    of the feast. At some of our colleges and inns of court, the
    serving of the boar's head on a silver platter on Christmas-day
    is a custom still followed; and till very lately, a bore's head
    was competed for at Christmas time by the young men of a rural
    parish in Essex. Indeed, so highly was the grizzly boar's head
    regarded in former times, that it passed into a cognizance of
    some of the noblest families in the realm: thus it was not only
    the crest of the Nevills and Warwicks, with their collateral
    houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III., that--

      "Wretched, bloody, and usurping boar,
       That spoil'd your summer fields and fruitful vines,
       Swills your warm blood like wash, and makes his trough
       In your embowell'd bosoms,"--

    and whose nature it was supposed to typify; and was universally
    used as a _sign_ to taverns. The Boar's Head in Eastcheap,
    which, till within the last twenty-five years still stood in all
    its primitive quaintness, though removed to make way for the
    London-bridge approaches, will live vividly in the mind of every
    reader of Shakspeare, as the resort of the prince of Wales,
    Poins, and his companions, and the residence of Falstaff and his
    coney-catching knaves, Bardolph, Pistol, and Nym; and whose sign
    was a boar's head, carved in stone over the door, and a smaller
    one in wood on each side of the doorway.

    The traditions and deeds of savage vengeance recorded in
    connection with this grim trophy of the chase are numerous in
    all parts of Europe. But the most remarkable connected with the
    subject in this country, were two events that occurred in
    Scotland, about the 11th and 15th centuries.

    A border family having been dispossessed of their castle and
    lands by a more powerful chief, were reduced for many years to
    great indigence, the expelled owner only living in the hope of
    wreaking a terrible vengeance, which, agreeably to the motto of
    his house, he was content to "bide his time" for. The usurper
    having invited a large number of his kindred to a grand hunt in
    his new domains, and a feast after in the great hall, returned
    from the chase, and discovering the feast not spread, vented his
    wrath in no measured terms on the heads of the tardy servitors.
    At length a menial approached, followed by a line of servants,
    and placing the boar's head on the table, the guests rushed
    forward to begin the meal; when, to their horror, they
    discovered, not a boar's but a bull's head,--a sign of death.
    The doors were immediately closed, and the false servants, who
    were the adherents of the dispossessed chief, threw off their
    disguise, and falling on the usurper and his friends, butchered
    them and every soul in the castle belonging to the rival
    faction.

    A tribe of caterans, or mountain robbers, in the Western
    Highlands, having been greatly persecuted by a powerful chief of
    the district, waylaid him and his retinue, put them all to the
    sword, and cutting off the chief's head, repaired to his castle,
    where they ordered the terrified wife to supply them with food
    and drink. To appease their savage humour, the lady gave order
    for their entertainment, and on returning to the hall to see her
    orders were complied with, discovered, in place of the boar's
    head that should have graced the board, her husband's bleeding
    head; the savage caterans, in rude derision, as a substitute for
    the apple or lemon usually placed between the jaws, having
    thrust a slice of bread in the dead man's mouth.

FOR CURING HAMS (Mons. Ude's Recipe).

816. INGREDIENTS.--For 2 hams weighing about 16 or 18 lbs. each, allow 1
lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 oz. of saltpetre, 1 quart of
good vinegar.

_Mode_.--As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the 2 hams
and rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large pan for 3
days. When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the hams, and
throw the brine away. Mix sugar, salt, and saltpetre together in the
above proportion, rub the hams well with these, and put them into a
vessel large enough to hold them, always keeping the salt over them. Let
them remain for 3 days, then pour over them a quart of good vinegar.
Turn them in the brine every day for a month, then drain them well, and
rub them with bran. Have them smoked over a wood fire, and be particular
that the hams are hung as high up as possible from the fire; otherwise
the fat will melt, and they will become dry and hard.

_Time_.--To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month.

_Sufficient_ for 2 hams of 18 lbs. each.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.

    THE PRICE OF A SOW IN AFRICA.--In one of the native states of
    Africa, a pig one day stole a piece of food from a child as it
    was in the act of conveying the morsel to its mouth; upon which
    the robbed child cried so loud that the mother rushed out of her
    hovel to ascertain the cause; and seeing the purloining pig make
    off munching his booty, the woman in her heat struck the grunter
    so smart a blow, that the surly rascal took it into his head to
    go home very much indisposed, and after a certain time resolved
    to die,--a resolution that he accordingly put into practice;
    upon which the owner instituted judicial proceedings before the
    Star Chamber court of his tribe, against the husband and family
    of the woman whose rash act had led to such results; and as the
    pig happened to be a _sow_, in the very flower of her age, the
    prospective loss to the owner in unnumbered teems of pigs, with
    the expenses attending so high a tribunal, swelled the damages
    and costs to such a sum, that it was found impossible to pay
    them. And as, in the barbarous justice existing among these rude
    people, every member of a family is equally liable as the
    individual who committed the wrong, the father, mother,
    children, relatives,--an entire community, to the number of
    _thirty-two souls_, were sold as slaves, and a fearful sum of
    human misery perpetrated, to pay the value of a thieving old
    sow.

TO SALT TWO HAMS, about 12 or 15 lbs. each.

817. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of treacle, 1/2 lb. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of
bay-salt, 2 pounds of common salt.

_Mode_.--Two days before they are put into pickle, rub the hams well
with salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw what comes from them
away, and then rub them with treacle, saltpetre, and salt. Lay them in a
deep pan, and let them remain one day; boil the above proportion of
treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt, and common salt for 1/4 hour, and pour
this pickle boiling hot over the hams: there should be sufficient of it
to cover them. For a day or two rub them well with it; afterwards they
will only require turning. They ought to remain in this pickle for 3
weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked, which will take nearly
or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue pickled in this way is most
excellent, to be eaten either green or smoked.

_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 3 weeks or a month; to be smoked about
a month.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.


TO CURE SWEET HAMS IN THE WESTMORELAND WAY.

818. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of common salt, 3 lbs. of coarse sugar, 1 lb.
of bay-salt, 3 quarts of strong beer.

_Mode_.--Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the preceding day
well with salt, and drain the brine well from them. Put the above
ingredients into a saucepan, and boil for 1/4 hour; pour over the hams,
and let them remain a month in the pickle. Rub and turn them every day,
but do not take them out of the pickling-pan; and have them smoked for a
month.

_Time_.--To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.


TO PICKLE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe).

819. INGREDIENTS.--To a ham from 10 to 12 lbs., allow 1 lb. of coarse
sugar, 3/4 lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/2 a teacupful of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day or
two to drain; then rub well in, the above proportion of sugar, salt,
saltpetre, and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in the
pickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be smoked over a wood fire
for 3 weeks or a month.

_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 1 month. To be smoked 3 weeks or 1
month.

_Sufficient_.--The above proportion of pickle sufficient for 1 ham.

_Seasonable_.--Hams should be pickled from October to March.

    NOVEL WAY OF RECOVERING A STOLEN PIG.--It is a well-known fact,
    that in Ireland the pig is, in every respect, a domesticated
    animal, sharing often both the bed and board of the family, and
    making an outer ring to the domestic circle, as, seated round
    the pot of potatoes, they partake of the midday meal called
    dinner. An Irishman upon one occasion having lost an interesting
    member of his household, in the form of a promising young
    porker, consulted his priest on the occasion, and having hinted
    at the person he suspected of purloining the "illegant slip of a
    pig" he was advised to take no further notice of the matter, but
    leave the issue to his spiritual adviser. Next Sunday his
    reverence, after mass, came to the front of the altar-rails, and
    looking very hard at the supposed culprit, exclaimed, "Who stole
    Pat Doolan's pig?" To this inquiry there was of course no
    answer;--the priest did not expect there would be any. The
    following Sunday the same query was propounded a little
    stronger--"Who of you was it, I say, who stole poor Pat Doolan's
    pig?" It now became evident that the culprit was a hardened
    sinner; so on the third Sunday, instead of repeating the
    unsatisfactory inquiry, the priest, after, as usual, eyeing the
    obdurate offender, said, in a tone of pious sorrow, "Mike Regan,
    Mike Regan, you treat me with contempt!" That night, when the
    family was all asleep, the latch of the door was noiselessly
    lifted, and the "illegant slip of a pig" cautiously slipped into
    the cabin.

TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME.

820. Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place to
put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on.
Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan
filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the
tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the
iron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan,
cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain
40 hours, and keep up a good smoke.


TO CURE BACON OR HAMS IN THE DEVONSHIRE WAY.

821. INGREDIENTS.--To every 14 lbs. of meat, allow 2 oz. of saltpetre, 2
oz. of salt prunella, 1 lb. of common salt. For the pickle, 3 gallons of
water, 5 lbs. of common salt, 7 lbs. of coarse sugar, 3 lbs. of
bay-salt.

_Mode_.--Weigh the sides, hams, and cheeks, and to every 14 lbs. allow
the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella, and common salt. Pound
and mix these together, and rub well into the meat; lay it in a stone
trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, and turning it daily for 2
successive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it a pickle made
as follows:--Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, set it on the
fire, and stir frequently; remove all the scum, allow it to boil for 1/4
hour, and pour it hot over the meat. Let the hams, &c., be well rubbed
and turned daily; if the meat is small, a fortnight will be sufficient
for the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle, and the hams 3
weeks; if from 30 lbs. and upwards, 3 weeks will be required for the
sides, &c., and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking the pieces
out, let them drain for an hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke from
a fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully skim the pickle after using,
and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2 years. When boiling it for
use, add about 2 lbs. of common salt, and the same of treacle, to allow
for waste. Tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold, having been
first rubbed well with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain 24
hours, not forgetting to make a deep incision under the thick part of
the tongue, so as to allow the pickle to penetrate more readily. A
fortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the tongue, will be
sufficient.

_Time_--Small meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight, hams 3 weeks; to
be smoked from a fortnight to 3 weeks.

The following is from Morton's "Cyclopaedia of Agriculture," and will be
found fully worthy of the high character of that publication.


CURING OF HAMS AND BACON.

822. The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid
on a strong bench or stool, and the head is separated from the body at
the neck, close behind the ears; the feet and also the internal fat are
removed. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the following
manner:--The ribs are divided about an inch from the spine on each side,
and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with the
internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh above it,
throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion of
the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge--the breadth of the
interior consisting of the breadth of the spine, and about an inch of
the ribs on each side, being diminished to about half an inch at the
exterior or skin along the back. The breast-bone, and also the first
anterior rib, are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole of
the ribs are removed; but this, for reasons afterwards to be noticed, is
a very bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides,
which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include the
hock-bone, in a similar manner to the London mode of cutting a haunch of
mutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted,
which process, in large caring establishments, is generally as follows.
The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of fifty parts
by weight of salt, and one part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised
parts of the ham or flitch, and the inside of the flitch covered with
the same. The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides to
each other, is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches
slightly inclined, and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the
brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwards
used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this state the bacon
remains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from nogs of a
carcass weight less than 15 stone (14 lbs. to the stone). Flitches of a
larger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and reversed
in their place in the pile, having, at the same time, about half the
first quantity of fresh, dry, common salt sprinkled over the inside and
incised parts; after which they remain on the benches for another week.
Hams being thicker than flitches, will require, when less than 20 lbs.
weight, 3 weeks; and when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain under the
above-described process. The next and last process in the preparation of
bacon and hams, previous to being sent to market, is drying. This is
effected by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a room
heated by stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which they are exposed for the
same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the
sawdust of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of completing the
curing process has some advantages over the other, as by it the meat is
subject to the action of _creosote_, a volatile oil produced by the
combustion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The process
also furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the air
not only from the muscle but also from the fat; thus effectually
preventing the meat from becoming rusted; and the principal reasons for
condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of pork
are, that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in
the process of salting, and by being more opposed to the action of the
air, becomes sooner and more extensively rusted. Notwithstanding its
superior efficacy in completing the process of curing, the flavour which
smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons, and it is
therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted by
mercantile curers. A very impure variety of _pyroligneous_ acid, or
vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes
used, on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which
it contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latter
object, however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than that
derived from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable portion
of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from that country
packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the salting process,
without having been in any degree dried. In the process of salting above
described, pork loses from eight to ten per cent. of its weight,
according to the size and quality of the meat; and a further diminution
of weight, to the extent of five to six per cent., takes place in drying
during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt; so that the
total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in
a proper state for market, is not less on an average than fifteen per
cent. on the weight of the fresh pork.


COLLARED PIG'S FACE (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish).

823. INGREDIENTS.--1 pig's face; salt. For brine, 1 gallon of spring
water, 1 lb. of common salt, 1/2 handful of chopped juniper-berries, 6
bruised cloves, 2 bay-leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage, 1/4
oz. of saltpetre. For forcemeat, 1/2 lb. of ham, 1/2 lb. bacon, 1
teaspoonful of mixed spices, pepper to taste, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1
tablespoonful of minced parsley, 6 young onions.

[Illustration: PIG'S FACE.]

_Mode_.--Singe the head carefully, bone it without breaking the skin,
and rub it well with salt. Make the brine by boiling the above
ingredients for 1/4 hour, and letting it stand to cool. When cold, pour
it over the head, and let it steep in this for 10 days, turning and
rubbing it often. Then wipe, drain, and dry it. For the forcemeat, pound
the ham and bacon very finely, and mix with these the remaining
ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated.
Spread this equally over the head, roll it tightly in a cloth, and bind
it securely with broad tape. Put it into a saucepan with a few meat
trimmings, and cover it with stock; let it simmer gently for 4 hours,
and be particular that it does not stop boiling the whole time. When
quite tender, take it up, put it between 2 dishes with a heavy weight on
the top, and when cold, remove the cloth and tape. It should be sent to
table on a napkin, or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a
ruche at the top.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, from 2s. to 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.

    THE WILD AND DOMESTIC HOG.--The domestic hog is the descendant
    of a race long since banished from this island; and it is
    remarkable, that while the tamed animal has been and is kept
    under surveillance, the wild type whence this race sprung, has
    maintained itself in its ancient freedom, the fierce denizen of
    the forest, and one of the renowned beasts of the chase.
    Whatever doubt may exist as to the true origin of the dog, the
    horse, the ox, and others, or as to whether their original race
    is yet extant or not, these doubts do not apply to the domestic
    hog. Its wild source still exists, and is universally
    recognized: like the wolf, however, it has been expelled from
    our island; but, like that animal, it still roams through the
    vast wooded tracts of Europe and Asia.

TO DRESS PIG'S FRY (a Savoury Dish).

824. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of pig's fry, 2 onions, a few sage-leaves,
3 lbs. of potatoes, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie-dish, sprinkle over it
some minced sage and onion, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; slice
the potatoes; put a layer of these on the seasoning, then the fat fry,
then more seasoning, and a layer of potatoes at the top. Fill the dish
with boiling water, and bake for 2 hours, or rather longer.

_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.


TO MELT LARD.

825. Melt the inner fat of the pig, by putting it in a stone jar, and
placing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping off
the skin. Let it simmer gently over a bright fire, and as it melts, pour
it carefully from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders for
use, and keep it in a cool place. The flead or inside fat of the pig,
before it is melted, makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularly
wholesome. It may be preserved a length of time by salting it well, and
occasionally changing the brine. When wanted for use, wash and wipe it,
and it will answer for making into paste as well as fresh lard.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.


BOILED LEG OF PORK.

826. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of pork; salt.

_Mode_.--For boiling, choose a small, compact, well-filled leg, and rub
it well with salt; let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days,
turning and rubbing it every day. An hour before dressing it, put it
into cold water for an hour, which improves the colour. If the pork is
purchased ready salted, ascertain how long the meat has been in pickle,
and soak it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient cold
water to cover it; let it gradually come to a boil, and remove the scum
as it rises. Simmer it very gently until tender, and do not allow it to
boil fast, or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of the
leg is done. Carrots, turnips, or parsnips may be boiled with the pork,
some of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish, and a
well-made pease-pudding is an indispensable accompaniment.

_Time_.--A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., 3 hours after the water boils,
and to be simmered very gently.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Note_.--The liquor in which a leg of pork has been boiled, makes
excellent pea-soup.

    ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.--The hog has survived changes which have
    swept multitudes of pachydermatous animals from the surface of
    our earth. It still presents the same characteristics, both
    physical and moral, which the earliest writers, whether sacred
    or profane, have faithfully delineated. Although the domestic
    has been more or less modified by long culture, yet the wild
    species remains unaltered, insomuch that the fossil relics may
    be identified with the bones of their existing descendants.

ROAST GRISKIN OF PORK.

827. INGREDIENTS.--Pork; a little powdered sage.

[Illustration: SPARE-RIB OF PORK.]

[Illustration: GRISKIN OF PORK.]

_Mode_.--As this joint frequently comes to table hard and dry,
particular care should be taken that it is well basted. Put it down to a
bright fire, and flour it. About 10 minutes before taking it up,
sprinkle over some powdered sage; make a little gravy in the
dripping-pan, strain it over the meat, and serve with a tureen of apple
sauce. This joint will be done in far less time than when the skin is
left on, consequently, should have the greatest attention that it be not
dried up.

_Time_.--Griskin of pork weighing 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 7d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Note_.--A spare-rib of pork is roasted in the same manner as above, and
would take 1-1/2 hour for one weighing about 6 lbs.

[Illustration: BACON FOR LARDING, AND LARDING-NEEDLE.]

LARDING.

828. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon and larding-needle.

_Mode_.--Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be cured
without any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on a table,
the rinds downwards; trim off any rusty part, and cut it into slices of
an equal thickness. Place the slices one on the top of another, and cut
them evenly into narrow strips, so arranging it that every piece of
bacon is of the same size. Bacon for fricandeau, poultry, and game,
should be about 2 inches in length, and rather more than one-eighth of
an inch in width. If for larding fillets of beef or loin of veal, the
pieces of bacon must be thicker. The following recipe of Soyer is, we
think, very explicit; and any cook, by following the directions here
given, may be able to lard, if not well, sufficiently for general use.

"Have the fricandeau trimmed, lay it, lengthwise, upon a clean napkin
across your hand, forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the part
you are about to commence at; then with the point of the larding-needle
make three distinct lines across, 1/2 inch apart; run the needle into
the third line, at the further side of the fricandeau, and bring it out
at the first, placing one of the lardoons in it; draw the needle
through, leaving out 1/4 inch of the bacon at each line; proceed thus to
the end of the row; then make another line, 1/2 inch distant, stick in
another row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, leaving
the ends of the bacon out all the same length; make the next row again
at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lardoons of the
first row, proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is larded
in chequered rows. Everything else is larded in a similar way; and, in
the case of poultry, hold the breast over a charcoal fire for one
minute, or dip it into boiling water, in order to make the flesh firm."


ROAST LOIN OF PORK.

829. INGREDIENTS.--Pork; a little salt.

[Illustration: FORE LOIN OF PORK.]

[Illustration: HIND LOIN OF PORK.]

_Mode_.--Score the skin in strips rather more than 1/4 inch apart, and
place the joint at a good distance from the fire, on account of the
crackling, which would harden before the meat would be heated through,
were it placed too near. If very lean, it should be rubbed over with a
little salad oil, and kept well basted all the time it is at the fire.
Pork should be very thoroughly cooked, but not dry; and be careful never
to send it to table the least underdone, as nothing is more unwholesome
and disagreeable than underdressed white meats. Serve with apple sauce,
No. 363, and a little gravy made in the dripping-pan. A stuffing of sage
and onion may be made separately, and baked in a flat dish: this method
is better than putting it in the meat, as many persons have so great an
objection to the flavour.

_Time_.--A loin of pork weighing 5 lbs., about 2 hours: allow more time
should it be very fat.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

    FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE HOG.--In British strata, the oldest fossil
    remains of the hog which Professor Owen states that he has
    examined, were from fissures in the red crag (probably miocene)
    of Newbourne, near Woodbridge, Suffolk. "They were associated
    with teeth of an extinct _felis_ about the size of a leopard,
    with those of a bear, and with remains of a large cervus. These
    mammalian remains were found with the ordinary fossils of the
    red crag: they had undergone the same process of trituration,
    and were impregnated with the same colouring matter as the
    associated bones and teeth of fishes acknowledged to be derived
    from the regular strata of the red crag. These mammaliferous
    beds have been proved by Mr. Lyell to be older than the
    fluvio-marine, or Norwich crag, in which remains of the
    mastodon, rhinoceros, and horse have been discovered; and still
    older than the fresh-water pleistocene deposits, from which the
    remains of the mammoth, rhinoceros, &c. are obtained in such
    abundance. I have met," says the professor, in addition, "with
    some satisfactory instances of the association of fossil remains
    of a species of hog with those of the mammoth, in the newer
    pliocene freshwater formations of England."

TO DRY PIGS' CHEEKS.

830. INGREDIENTS.--Salt, 4 oz. of saltpetre, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 4 oz. of
coarse sugar.

_Mode_.--Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split the head,
taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape; rub it well
with salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the following
day; cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt, and coarse sugar, in the
above proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the head be often
turned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke it for a
week or rather longer.

_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 10 days; to be smoked 1 week.

_Seasonable_.--Should be made from September to March.

_Note_.--A pig's check, or Bath chap, will take about 2 hours after the
water boils.


PIG'S LIVER (a Savoury and Economical Dish).

831. INGREDIENTS.--The liver and lights of a pig, 6 or 7 slices of
bacon, potatoes, 1 large bunch of parsley, 2 onions, 2 sage-leaves,
pepper and salt to taste, a little broth or water.

_Mode_.--Slice the liver and lights, and wash these perfectly clean, and
parboil the potatoes; mince the parsley and sage, and chop the onion
rather small. Put the meat, potatoes, and bacon into a deep tin dish, in
alternate layers, with a sprinkling of the herbs, and a seasoning of
pepper and salt between each; pour on a little water or broth, and bake
in a moderately-heated oven for 2 hours.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.


PIG'S PETTITOES.

832. INGREDIENTS.--A thin slice of bacon, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, 6
peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to
taste, thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Put the liver, heart, and pettitoes into a stewpan with the
bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, onion, and gravy, and simmer these
gently for 1/4 hour; then take out the heart and liver, and mince them
very fine. Keep stewing the feet until quite tender, which will be in
from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time that they boiled up
first; then put back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little
butter and flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer over a gentle
fire for 5 minutes, occasionally stirring the contents. Dish the mince,
split the feet, and arrange them round alternately with sippets of
toasted bread, and pour the gravy in the middle.

_Time_.--Altogether 40 minutes.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.


TO PICKLE PORK.

833. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of saltpetre; salt.

_Mode_.--As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it into
pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the pieces of
pork well with salt, and put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it
between each piece: as it melts on the top, strew on more. Lay a coarse
cloth over the pan, a board over that, and a weight on the board, to
keep the pork down in the brine. If excluded from the air, it will
continue good for nearly 2 years.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for the prime parts.

_Seasonable_.--The best time for pickling meat is late in the autumn.

    THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE HOG.--A singular circumstance in the
    domestic history of the hog, is the extent of its distribution
    over the surface of the earth; being found even in insulated
    places, where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous, and where the
    wild species is entirely unknown. The South-Sea islands, for
    example, were found on their discovery to be well stocked with a
    small black hog; and the traditionary belief of the people was
    that these animals were coeval with the origin of themselves.
    Yet they possessed no knowledge of the wild boar, or any other
    animal of the hog kind, from which the domestic breed might be
    supposed to be derived. In these islands the hog is the
    principal quadruped, and the fruit of the bread-tree is its
    principal food, although it is also fed with yams, eddoes, and
    other vegetables. This nutritious diet, which it has in great
    abundance, is, according to Foster, the reason of its flesh
    being so delicious, so full of juice, and so rich in fat, which
    is not less delicate to the taste than the finest butter.

TO BOIL PICKLED PORK.

834. INGREDIENTS.--Pork; water.

_Mode_.--Should the pork be very salt, let it remain in water about 2
hours before it is dressed; put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold
water to cover it, let it gradually come to a boil, then gently simmer
until quite tender. Allow ample time for it to cook, as nothing is more
disagreeable than underdone pork, and when boiled fast, the meat becomes
hard. This is sometimes served with boiled poultry and roast veal,
instead of bacon: when tender, and not over salt, it will be found
equally good.

_Time_.--A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lbs., 1-1/4 hour; 4 lbs.,
rather more than 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for the primest parts.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.--By what nation and in what period the
    hog was reclaimed, is involved in the deepest obscurity. So far
    back as we have any records of history, we find notices of this
    animal, and of its flesh being used as the food of man. By some
    nations, however, its flesh was denounced as unclean, and
    therefore prohibited to be used, whilst by others it was
    esteemed as a great delicacy. By the Mosaic law it was forbidden
    to be eaten by the Jews, and the Mahometans hold it in utter
    abhorrence. Dr. Kitto, however, says that there does not appear
    to be any reason in the law of Moses why the hog should be held
    in such peculiar abomination. There seems nothing to have
    prevented the Jews, if they had been so inclined, to rear pigs
    for sale, or for the use of the land. In the Talmud there are
    some indications that this was actually done; and it was,
    probably, for such purposes that the herds of swine mentioned in
    the New Testament were kept, although it is usual to consider
    that they were kept by the foreign settlers in the land. Indeed,
    the story which accounts for the peculiar aversion of the
    Hebrews to the hog, assumes that it did not originate until
    about 130 years before Christ, and that, previously, some Jews
    were in the habit of rearing hogs for the purposes indicated.

PORK PIES (Warwickshire Recipe).

835. INGREDIENTS.--For the crust, 5 lbs. of lard to 14 lbs. of flour,
milk, and water. For filling the pies, to every 3 lbs. of meat allow 1
oz. of salt, 2-1/4 oz. of pepper, a small quantity of cayenne, 1 pint of
water.

_Mode_.--Rub into the flour a portion of the lard; the remainder put
with sufficient milk and water to mix the crust, and boil this gently
for 1/4 hour. Pour it boiling on the flour, and knead and beat it till
perfectly smooth. Now raise the crust in either a round or oval form,
cut up the pork into pieces the size of a nut, season it in the above
proportion, and press it compactly into the pie, in alternate layers of
fat and lean, and pour in a small quantity of water; lay on the lid, cut
the edges smoothly round, and pinch them together. Bake in a brick oven,
which should be slow, as the meat is very solid. Very frequently, the
inexperienced cook finds much difficulty in raising the crust. She
should bear in mind that it must not be allowed to get cold, or it will
fall immediately: to prevent this, the operation should be performed as
near the fire as possible. As considerable dexterity and expertness are
necessary to raise the crust with the hand only, a glass bottle or small
jar may be placed in the middle of the paste, and the crust moulded on
this; but be particular that it is kept warm the whole time.

_Sufficient_.--The proportions for 1 pie are 1 lb. of flour and 3 lbs.
of meat.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

    THE FLESH OF SWINE IN HOT CLIMATES.--It is observed by M.
    Sonini, that the flesh of swine, in hot climates, is considered
    unwholesome, and therefore may account for its proscription by
    the legislators and priests of the East. In Egypt, Syria, and
    even the southern parts of Greece, although both white and
    delicate, it is so flabby and surcharged with fat, that it
    disagrees with the strongest stomachs. Abstinence from it in
    general was, therefore, indispensable to health under the
    burning suns of Egypt and Arabia. The Egyptians were permitted
    to eat it only once a year,--on the feast of the moon; and then
    they sacrificed a number of these animals to that planet. At
    other seasons, should any one even touch a hog, he was obliged
    immediately to plunge into the river Nile, as he stood, with his
    clothes on, in order to purify himself from the supposed
    contamination he had contracted by the touch.

LITTLE RAISED PORK PIES.

836. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of mutton
suet, salt and white pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of the neck of pork, 1
dessertspoonful of powdered sage.

_Mode_.--Well dry the flour, mince the suet, and put these with the
butter into a saucepan, to be made hot, and add a little salt. When
melted, mix it up into a stiff paste, and put it before the fire with a
cloth over it until ready to make up; chop the pork into small pieces,
season it with white pepper, salt, and powdered sage; divide the paste
into rather small pieces, raise it in a round or oval form, fill with
the meat, and bake in a brick oven. These pies will require a fiercer
oven than those in the preceding recipe, as they are made so much
smaller, and consequently do not require so soaking a heat.

_Time_.--If made small, about 1-1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

    SWINEHERDS OF ANTIQUITY.--From the prejudice against the hog
    among the ancients, those who tended them formed an isolated
    class, and were esteemed as the outcasts of society. However
    much the flesh of the animal was esteemed by the Greeks and
    Romans, yet the swineherd is not mentioned by either the classic
    writers or the poets who, in ancient Greece and Rome, painted
    rural life. We have no descriptions of gods or heroes descending
    to the occupation of keeping swine. The swineherd is never
    introduced into the idyls of Theocritus, nor has Virgil admitted
    him into his eclogues. The Eumaeus of Homer is the only
    exception that we have of a swineherd meeting with favour in the
    eyes of a poet of antiquity. This may be accounted for, on the
    supposition that the prejudices of the Egyptians relative to
    this class of men, extended to both Greece and Italy, and
    imparted a bias to popular opinion.

TO MAKE SAUSAGES.

(_Author's Oxford Recipe_.)

837. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle;
1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of beef suet, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, the
rind of 1/2 lemon, 1 small nutmeg, 6 sage-leaves, 1 teaspoonful of
pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of savory, 1/2
teaspoonful of marjoram.

_Mode_.--Chop the pork, veal, and suet finely together, add the bread
crumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a small nutmeg
grated. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely; add these with the
remaining ingredients to the sausage-meat, and when thoroughly mixed,
either put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for table, form it into
little cakes, which should be floured and fried.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for about 30 moderate-sized sausages.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.

    THE HOG IN ENGLAND.--From time immemorial, in England, this
    animal has been esteemed as of the highest importance. In the
    Anglo-Saxon period, vast herds of swine were tended by men, who
    watched over their safety, and who collected them under shelter
    at night. At that time, the flesh of the animal was the staple
    article of consumption in every family, and a large portion of
    the wealth of the rich freemen of the country consisted of these
    animals. Hence it was common to make bequests of swine, with
    lands for their support; and to these were attached rights and
    privileges in connection with their feeding, and the extent of
    woodland to be occupied by a given number was granted in
    accordance with established rules. This is proved by an ancient
    Saxon grant, quoted by Sharon Turner, in his "History of the
    Anglo-Saxons," where the right of pasturage is conveyed in a
    deed by the following words:--"I give food for seventy swine in
    that woody allotment which the countrymen call Wolferdinlegh."

FRIED SAUSAGES.

[Illustration: FRIED SAUSAGES.]

838. INGREDIENTS.--Sausages; a small piece of butter.

_Mode_.--Prick the sausages with a fork (this prevents them from
bursting), and put them into a frying-pan with a small piece of butter.
Keep moving the pan about, and turn the sausages 3 or 4 times. In from
10 to 12 minutes they will be sufficiently cooked, unless they are _very
large_, when a little more time should be allowed for them. Dish them
with or without a piece of toast under them, and serve very hot. In some
counties, sausages are boiled and served on toast. They should be
plunged into boiling water, and simmered for about 10 or 12 minutes.

_Time_.--10 to 12 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Seasonable_.--Good from September to March.

_Note_.--Sometimes, in close warm weather, sausages very soon turn sour;
to prevent this, put them in the oven for a few minutes with a small
piece of butter to keep them moist. When wanted for table, they will not
require so long frying as uncooked sausages.

    THE SAXON SWINEHERD.--The men employed in herding swine during
    the Anglo-Saxon period of our history were, in general, thralls
    or born slaves of the soil, who were assisted by powerful dogs,
    capable even of singly contending with the wolf until his master
    came with his spear to the rescue. In the "Ivanhoe" of Sir
    Walter Scott, we have an admirable picture, in the character of
    Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd, as we also have of his master,
    a large landed proprietor, a great portion of whose wealth
    consisted of swine, and whose rude but plentiful board was
    liberally supplied with the flesh.

SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKES.

839. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of lean pork, add 3/4 lb. of fat bacon,
1/4 oz. of salt, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley.

_Mode_.--Remove from the pork all skin, gristle, and bone, and chop it
finely with the bacon; add the remaining ingredients, and carefully mix
altogether. Pound it well in a mortar, make it into convenient-sized
cakes, flour these, and fry them a nice brown for about 10 minutes. This
is a very simple method of making sausage-meat, and on trial will prove
very good, its great recommendation being, that it is so easily made.

_Time_.--10 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.


TO SCALD A SUCKING-PIG.

840. Put the pig into cold water directly it is killed; let it remain
for a few minutes, then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for 2
minutes. Take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as
quickly as possible. When the skin looks clean, make a slit down the
belly, take out the entrails, well clean the nostrils and ears, wash the
pig in cold water, and wipe it thoroughly dry. Take off the feet at the
first joint, and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over.
If not to be dressed immediately, fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from
the air.

    THE LEARNED PIG.--That the pig is capable of education, is a
    fact long known to the world; and though, like the ass,
    naturally stubborn and obstinate, that he is equally amenable
    with other animals to caresses and kindness, has been shown from
    very remote time; the best modern evidence of his docility,
    however, is the instance of the learned pig, first exhibited
    about a century since, but which has been continued down to our
    own time by repeated instances of an animal who will put
    together all the letters or figures that compose the day, month,
    hour, and date of the exhibition, besides many other
    unquestioned evidences of memory. The instance already given of
    breaking a sow into a pointer, till she became more stanch even
    than the dog itself, though surprising, is far less wonderful
    than that evidence of education where so generally obtuse an
    animal may be taught not only to spell, but couple figures and
    give dates correctly.

ROAST SUCKING-PIG.

841. INGREDIENTS.--Pig, 6 oz. of bread crumbs, 16 sage-leaves, pepper
and salt to taste, a piece of butter the size of an egg, salad oil or
butter to baste with, about 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice.

[Illustration: ROAST SUCKING-PIG.]

_Mode_.--A sucking-pig, to be eaten in perfection, should not be more
than three weeks old, and should be dressed the same day that it is
killed. After preparing the pig for cooking, as in the preceding recipe,
stuff it with finely-grated bread crumbs, minced sage, pepper, salt, and
a piece of butter the size of an egg, all of which should be well mixed
together, and put into the body of the pig. Sew up the slit neatly, and
truss the legs back, to allow the inside to be roasted, and the under
part to be crisp. Put the pig down to a bright clear fire, not too near,
and let it lay till thoroughly dry; then have ready some butter tied up
in a piece of thin cloth, and rub the pig with this in every part. Keep
it well rubbed with the butter the whole of the time it is roasting, and
do not allow the crackling to become blistered or burnt. When half-done,
hang a pig-iron before the middle part (if this is not obtainable, use a
flat iron), to prevent its being scorched and dried up before the ends
are done. Before it is taken from the fire, cut off the head, and part
that and the body down the middle. Chop the brains and mix them with the
stuffing; add 1/2 pint of good gravy, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
and the gravy that flowed from the pig; put a little of this on the dish
with the pig, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Place the pig
back to back in the dish, with one half of the head on each side, and
one of the ears at each end, and send it to table as hot as possible.
Instead of butter, many cooks take salad oil for basting, which makes
the crackling crisp; and as this is one of the principal things to be
considered, perhaps it is desirable to use it; but be particular that it
is very pure, or it will impart an unpleasant flavour to the meat. The
brains and stuffing may be stirred into a tureen of melted butter
instead of gravy, when the latter is not liked. Apple sauce and the
old-fashioned currant sauce are not yet quite obsolete as an
accompaniment to roast pig.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours for a small pig.

_Average cost_, 5s. to 6s.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

    HOW ROAST PIG WAS DISCOVERED.--Charles Lamb, who, in the early
    part of this century, delighted the reading public by his quaint
    prose sketches, written under the title of "Essays of Elia,"
    has, in his own quiet humorous way, devoted one paper to the
    subject of _Roast Pig_, and more especially to that luxurious
    and toothsome dainty known as "CRACKLING;" and shows, in a
    manner peculiarly his own, _how crackling first came into the
    world._

    According to this erudite authority, man in the golden age, or
    at all events the primitive age, eat his pork and bacon raw, as,
    indeed, he did his beef and mutton; unless, as Hudibras tells
    us, he was an epicure, when he used to make a saddle of his
    saddle of mutton, and after spreading it on his horse's back,
    and riding on it for a few hours till thoroughly warmed, he sat
    down to the luxury of a dish cooked to a turn. At the epoch of
    the story, however, a citizen of some Scythian community had the
    misfortune to have his hut, or that portion of it containing his
    live stock of pigs, burnt down. In going over the _débris_ on
    the following day, and picking out all the available salvage,
    the proprietor touched something unusually or unexpectedly hot,
    which caused him to shake his hand with great energy, and clap
    the tips of his suffering fingers to his mouth. The act was
    simple and natural, but the result was wonderful. He rolled his
    eyes in ecstatic pleasure, his frame distended, and, conscious
    of a celestial odour, his nostrils widened, and, while drawing
    in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume, he sucked his
    fingers with a gusto he had never, in his most hungry moments,
    conceived. Clearing away the rubbish from beneath him, he at
    last brought to view the carcase of one of his pigs, _roasted to
    death_. Stooping down to examine this curious object, and
    touching its body, a fragment of the burnt skin was detached,
    which, with a sort of superstitious dread, he at length, and in
    a spirit of philosophical inquiry, put into his mouth. Ye gods!
    the felicity he then enjoyed, no pen can chronicle! Then it was
    that he--the world--first tasted _crackling_. Like a miser with
    his gold, the Scythian hid his treasure from the prying eyes of
    the world, and feasted, in secret, more sumptuously than the
    gods. When he had eaten up all his pig, the poor man fell into a
    melancholy; he refused the most tempting steak, though cooked on
    the horse's back, and turned every half-hour after his own
    favourite recipe; he fell, in fact, from his appetite, and was
    reduced to a shadow, till, unable longer to endure the torments
    of memory he hourly suffered, he rose one night and secretly set
    fire to his hut, and once more was restored to flesh and
    manhood. Finding it impossible to live in future without
    roast-pig, he set fire to his house every time his larder became
    empty; till at last his neighbours, scandalized by the frequency
    of these incendiary acts, brought his conduct before the supreme
    council of the nation. To avert the penalty that awaited him, he
    brought his judges to the smouldering ruins, and discovering the
    secret, invited them to eat; which having done, with tears of
    gratitude, the august synod embraced him, and, with an
    overflowing feeling of ecstasy, dedicated a statue to the memory
    of the man who first _instituted roast pork_.


PORK CARVING.


SUCKING-PIG.

[Illustration: SUCKING-PIG.]

842. A sucking-pig seems, at first sight, rather an elaborate dish, or
rather animal, to carve; but by carefully mastering the details of the
business, every difficulty will vanish; and if a partial failure be at
first made, yet all embarrassment will quickly disappear on a second
trial. A sucking-pig is usually sent to table in the manner shown in the
engraving (and also in coloured plate S), and the first point to be
attended to is to separate the shoulder from the carcase, by carrying
the knife quickly and neatly round the circular line, as shown by the
figures 1, 2, 3;--the shoulder will then easily come away. The next step
is to take off the leg; and this is done in the same way, by cutting
round this joint in the direction shown by the figures 1, 2, 3, in the
same way as the shoulder. The ribs then stand fairly open to the knife,
which should be carried down in the direction of the line 4 to 5; and
two or three helpings will dispose of these. The other half of the pig
is served, of course, in the same manner. Different parts of the pig are
variously esteemed; some preferring the flesh of the neck; others, the
ribs; and others, again, the shoulders. The truth is, the whole of a
sucking-pig is delicious, delicate eating; but, in carving it, the host
should consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests, keeping the
larger joints, generally, for the gentlemen of the party.


HAM.

[Illustration: HAM.]

843. In cutting a ham, the carver must be guided according as he desires
to practise economy, or have, at once, fine slices out of the prime
part. Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end,
and cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham. To reach the
choicer portion, the knife, which must be very sharp and thin, should be
carried quite down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2. The
slices should be thin and even, and always cut down to the bone. There
are some who like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at the top, and then
slicing pieces off inside the hole, gradually enlarging the circle; but
we think this a plan not to be recommended. A ham, when hot, is usually
sent to table with a paper ruffle round the knuckle; when cold, it is
served in the manner shown by coloured plate P.


LEG OF PORK.

[Illustration: LEG OF PORK.]

844. This joint, which is such a favourite one with many people, is easy
to carve. The knife should be carried sharply down to the bone, clean
through the crackling, in the direction of the line 1 to 2. Sago and
onion and apple sauce are usually sent to table with this
dish,--sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed,--and the guests should be
asked if they will have either or both. A frequent plan, and we think a
good one, is now pursued, of sending sage and onion to table separately
from the joint, as it is not everybody to whom the flavour of this
stuffing is agreeable.

_Note_.--The other dishes of pork do not call for any special remarks as
to their carving or helping.




CHAPTER XVIII.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF.

845. ANY REMARKS MADE ON THE CALF OR THE LAMB must naturally be in a
measure supplementary to the more copious observations made on the
parent stock of either. As the calf, at least as far as it is identified
with veal, is destined to die young,--to be, indeed, cut off in its
comparative infancy,--it may, at first sight, appear of little or no
consequence to inquire to what particular variety, or breed of the
general stock, his sire or dam may belong. The great art, however, in
the modern science of husbandry has been to obtain an animal that shall
not only have the utmost beauty of form of which the species is capable,
but, at the same time, a constitution free from all taint, a frame that
shall rapidly attain bulk and stature, and a disposition so kindly that
every _quantum_ of food it takes shall, without drawback or
procrastination, be eliminated into fat and muscle. The breed, then, is
of very considerable consequence in determining, not only the quality of
the meat to the consumer, but its commercial value to the breeder and
butcher.

846. UNDER THE ARTIFICIAL SYSTEM adopted in the rearing of domestic
cattle, and stock in general, to gratify the arbitrary mandates of
luxury and fashion, we can have veal, like lamb, at all seasons in the
market, though the usual time in the metropolis for veal to make its
appearance is about the beginning of February.

847. THE COW GOES WITH YOUNG FOR NINE MONTHS, and the affection and
solicitude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tenderness
mid intensity than is displayed by any other animal; and her distress
when she hears its bleating, and is not allowed to reach it with her
distended udders, is often painful to witness, and when the calf has
died, or been accidentally killed, her grief frequently makes her refuse
to give down her milk. At such times, the breeder has adopted the
expedient of flaying the dead carcase, and, distending the skin with
hay, lays the effigy before her, and then taking advantage of her
solicitude, milks her while she is caressing the skin with her tongue.

848. IN A STATE OF NATURE, the cow, like the deer, hides her young in
the tall ferns and brakes, and the most secret places; and only at
stated times, twice or thrice a day, quits the herd, and, hastening to
the secret cover, gives suck to her calf, and with the same,
circumspection returns to the community.

849. IN SOME COUNTRIES, to please the epicurean taste of vitiated
appetites, it is the custom to kill the calf for food almost immediately
after birth, and any accident that forestalls that event, is considered
to enhance its value. We are happy to say, however, that in this
country, as far as England and Scotland are concerned, the taste for
very young veal has entirely gone out, and "Staggering Bob," as the poor
little animal was called in the language of the shambles, is no longer
to be met with in such a place.

850. THE WEANING OF CALVES is a process that requires a great amount of
care and judgment; for though they are in reality not weaned till
between the eighth and the twelfth week, the process of rearing them by
hand commences in fact from the birth, the calf never being allowed to
suck its dam. As the rearing of calves for the market is a very
important and lucrative business, the breeder generally arranges his
stock so that ten or a dozen of his cows shall calve about the same
time; and then, by setting aside one or two, to find food for the entire
family, gets the remaining eight or ten with their full fountains of
milk, to carry on the operations of his dairy. Some people have an idea
that skimmed milk, if given in sufficient quantity, is good enough for
the weaning period of calf-feeding; but this is a very serious mistake,
for the cream, of which it has been deprived, contained nearly all the
oleaginous principles, and the azote or nitrogen, on which the vivifying
properties of that fluid depends. Indeed, so remarkably correct has this
fact proved to be, that a calf reared on one part of new milk mixed with
five of water, will thrive and look well; while another, treated with
unlimited skimmed milk, will be poor, thin, and miserable.

851. IT IS SOMETIMES A MATTER OF CONSIDERABLE TROUBLE to induce the
blundering calf--whose instinct only teaches him to suck, and that he
will do at anything and with anything--acquire the knowledge of
imbibition, that for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a
bottle with milk, and, opening his mouth, pour the contents down his
throat. The manner, however, by which he is finally educated into the
mystery of suction, is by putting his allowance of milk into a large
wooden bowl; the nurse then puts her hand into the milk, and, by bending
her fingers upwards, makes a rude teat for the calf to grasp in his
lips, when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers, causes the
milk to rise along them into his mouth. In this manner one by one the
whole family are to be fed three times a day; care being taken, that
new-born calves are not, at first, fed on milk from a cow who has some
days calved.

852. AS THE CALF PROGRESSES TOWARDS HIS TENTH WEEK, his diet requires to
be increased in quantity and quality; for these objects, his milk can be
thickened with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake are
to be slipped into his mouth after sucking, that they may dissolve
there, till he grows familiar with, and to like the taste, when it may
be softened and scraped down into his milk-and-water. After a time,
sliced turnips softened by steam are to be given to him in tolerable
quantities; then succulent grasses; and finally, hay may be added to the
others. Some farmers, desirous of rendering their calves fat for the
butcher in as short a time as possible, forget both the natural weakness
of the digestive powers, and the contracted volume of the stomach, and
allow the animals either to suck _ad libitum_, or give them, if brought
up at the pail or by hand, a larger quantity of milk than they can
digest. The idea of overloading the stomach never suggests itself to
their minds. They suppose that the more food the young creature
consumes, the sooner it will be fat, and they allow it no exercise
whatever, for fear it should denude its very bones of their flesh. Under
such circumstances, the stomach soon becomes deranged; its functions are
no longer capable of acting; the milk, subjected to the acid of the
stomach, coagulates, and forms a hardened mass of curd, when the muscles
become affected with spasms, and death frequently ensues.

853. THERE WAS NO SPECIES OF SLAUGHTERING practised in this country so
inhuman and disgraceful as that, till very lately, employed in killing
this poor animal; when, under the plea of making the flesh _white_, the
calf was bled day by day, till, when the final hour came, the animal was
unable to stand. This inhumanity is, we believe, now everywhere
abolished, and the calf is at once killed, and with the least amount of
pain; a sharp-pointed knife is run through the neck, severing all the
large veins and arteries up to the vertebrae. The skin is then taken off
to the knee, which is disjointed, and to the head, which is removed; it
is then reflected backwards, and the carcase having been opened and
dressed, is kept apart by stretchers, and the thin membrane, the caul,
extended over the organs left in the carcase, as the kidneys and
sweet-bread; some melted fat is then scattered suddenly over the whole
interior, giving that white and frosted appearance to the meat, that is
thought to add to its beauty; the whole is then hung up to cool and
harden.

854. THE MANNER OF CUTTING UP VEAL for the English market is to divide
the carcase into four quarters, with eleven ribs to each fore quarter;
which are again subdivided into joints as exemplified on the cut.

[Illustration: SIDE OF A CALF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]

  _Hind quarter_:--

    1. The loin.
    2. The chump, consisting of the rump
        and hock-bone.
    3. The fillet.
    4. The hock, or hind knuckle.

  _Fore quarter_:--

    5. The shoulder.
    6. The neck.
    7. The breast.
    8. The fore knuckle.

855. THE SEVERAL PARTS OF A MODERATELY-SIZED WELL-FED CALF, about eight
weeks old, are nearly of the following weights:--loin and chump 18 lbs.,
fillet 12-1/2 lbs., hind knuckle 5-1/2 lbs., shoulder 11 lbs, neck 11
lbs., breast 9 lbs., and fore knuckle 5 lbs.; making a total of 144 lbs.
weight. The London mode of cutting the carcase is considered better than
that pursued in Edinburgh, as giving three roasting joints, and one
boiling, in each quarter; besides the pieces being more equally divided,
as regards flesh, and from the handsomer appearance they make on the
table.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XIX.


BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

856. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon, 1
pint of bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of good veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of
minced lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, 4
eggs.

_Mode_.--Mince finely the veal and bacon; add the bread crumbs, gravy,
and seasoning, and stir these ingredients well together. Beat up the
eggs thoroughly; add these, mix the whole well together, put into a
dish, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. When liked, a little good gravy may
be served in a tureen as an accompaniment.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


ROAST BREAST OF VEAL.

[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]

857. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; a little flour.

_Mode_.--Wash the veal, well wipe it, and dredge it with flour; put it
down to a bright fire, not too near, as it should not be scorched. Baste
it plentifully until done; dish it, pour over the meat some good melted
butter, and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut
lemon.

_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


STEWED BREAST OF VEAL AND PEAS.

858. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of veal, 2 oz. of butter, a bunch of savoury
herbs, including parsley; 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6
young onions, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of
pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, thickening of butter and flour, 2
tablespoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup,
green peas.

_Mode_.--Cut the breast in half, after removing the bone underneath, and
divide the meat into convenient-sized pieces. Put the butter into a
frying-pan, lay in the pieces of veal, and fry until of a nice brown
colour. Now place these in a stewpan with the herbs, mace, cloves,
onions, lemon-peel, allspice, and seasoning; pour over them just
sufficient boiling water to cover the meat; well close the lid, and let
the whole simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravy
as is required, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remaining
ingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, then pour it
over the meat. Have ready some green peas, boiled separately; sprinkle
these over the veal, and serve. It may be garnished with forcemeat
balls, or rashers of bacon curled and fried. Instead of cutting up the
meat, many persons prefer it dressed whole;--in that case it should be
half-roasted before the water, &c. are put to it.

_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    BREEDING OF CALVES.--The forwarding of calves to maturity,
    whether intended to be reared for stock, or brought to an early
    market as veal, is always a subject of great importance, and
    requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection
    of the best course, to adopt for either end. When meant to be
    reared as stock, the breeding should be so arranged that the cow
    shall calve about the middle of May. As our subject, however,
    has more immediate reference to the calf as _meat_ than as
    _stock_, we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure
    adopted in the former case; and here, the first process adopted
    is that of weaning; which consists in separating the calf
    _entirely_ from the cow, but, at the same time, rearing it on
    the mother's milk. As the business of the dairy would be
    suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young, and
    butter, cheese, and cream become _desiderata_,--things to be
    desired, but not possessed, a system of economical husbandry
    becomes necessary, so as to retain our dairy produce, and yet,
    for some weeks at least, nourish the calf on its mother's milk,
    but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself:
    this, with the proper substituted food on which to rear the
    young animal, is called weaning.

VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic).

859. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of cold
ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little
pepper, good gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut off all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the eggs
into slices. Procure a pretty mould; lay veal, ham, eggs, and parsley in
layers, with a little pepper between each, and when the mould is full,
get some _strong_ stock, and fill up the shape. Bake for 1/2 hour, and
when cold, turn it out.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BOILED CALF'S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER.

860. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 2 slices of bacon, 2 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion,
a bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley and
butter No. 493.

_Mode_.--Procure 2 white calf's feet; bone them as far as the first
joint, and put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours. Then put the
bacon, butter, lemon-juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into a
stewpan; lay in the feet, and pour in just sufficient water to cover the
whole. Stew gently for about 3 hours; take out the feet, dish them, and
cover with parsley and butter, made by recipe No. 493. The liquor they
were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use:
it will be found very good as an addition to gravies, &c. &c.

_Time_.--Rather more than 3 hours.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    WHEN A CALF SHOULD BE KILLED.--The age at which a calf ought to
    be killed should not be under four weeks: before that time the
    flesh is certainly not wholesome, wanting firmness, due
    development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on which
    the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend,
    whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the
    contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of
    calves under _six weeks_ of age. The calf is considered in prime
    condition at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to
    eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty.

FRICASSEED CALF'S FEET.

861. INGREDIENTS.--A set of calf's feet; for the batter allow for each
egg 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs, hot lard
or clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm water
repeatedly, and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the other,
until the skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of water being kept by
the fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in cold
water, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them, until the bones
come easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the liquor
into a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish until the next day.
Now cut it down in slices about 1/2 inch thick, lay on them a stiff
batter made of egg, flour, and bread crumbs in the above proportion;
season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard.
Fry the slices a nice brown, dry them before the fire for a minute or
two, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. This
should be eaten with melted butter, mustard, and vinegar. Be careful to
have the lard boiling to set the batter, or the pieces of feet will run
about the pan. The liquor they were boiled in should be saved, and will
be found useful for enriching gravies, making jellies, &e. &e.

_Time_.--About 3 hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry them.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--This dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons.

    COLOUR OF VEAL.--As whiteness of flesh is considered a great
    advantage in veal, butchers, in the selection of their calves,
    are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth, and
    noting the colour of the calf's eyes; alleging that, from the
    signs they there see, they can prognosticate whether the veal
    will be white or florid.

COLLARED CALF'S HEAD.

862. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 4
blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, white pepper
to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs boiled hard.

_Mode_.--Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, and
with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely, divide the
head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the bones,
which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is boned, flatten it on
the table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a layer of
ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and put a
seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer;
roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as possible. Boil
it for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot, place a heavy
weight on the top, the same as for other collars. Let it remain till
cold; then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve.

_Time_.--Altogether 6 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. to 7s. each.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    FEEDING A CALF.--The amount of milk necessary for a calf for
    some time, will be about four quarts a day, though, after the
    first fortnight, that quantity should be gradually increased,
    according to its development of body, when, if fed exclusively
    on milk, as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for
    the due health and requirements of the animal. If the weather
    is fine and genial, it should be turned into an orchard or small
    paddock for a few hours each day, to give it an opportunity to
    acquire a relish for the fresh pasture, which, by the tenth or
    twelfth week, it will begin to nibble and enjoy. After a certain
    time, the quantity of milk may be diminished, and its place
    supplied by water thickened with meal. Hay-tea and linseed-jelly
    are also highly nutritious substances, and may be used either as
    adjuncts or substitutes.

FRICASSEED CALF'S HEAD (an Entree).

863. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a boiled calf's head, 1-1/2 pint of
the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1
onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, forcemeat balls.

_Mode_.--Remove all the bones from the head, and cut the meat into nice
square pieces. Put 1-1/2 pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a
saucepan, with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the above
proportion; let this simmer gently for 3/4 hour, then strain it and put
in the meat. When quite hot through, thicken the gravy with a little
butter rolled in flour, and, just before dishing the fricassee, put in
the beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice; but be particular, after these
two latter ingredients are added, that the sauce does not boil, or it
will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled
bacon. To insure the sauce being smooth, it is a good plan to dish the
meat first, and then to add the eggs to the gravy: when these are set,
the sauce may be poured over the meat.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.


CALF'S HEAD a la Maitre d'Hotel.

864. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold calf's head, rather more than
1/2 pint of Maitre d'hôtel sauce No. 466.

_Mode_.--Make the sauce by recipe No. 466, and have it sufficiently
thick that it may nicely cover the meat; remove the bones from the head,
and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready, lay in the
meat; let it _gradually_ warm through, and, after it boils up, let it
simmer very gently for 5 minutes, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 2d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    THE CALF IN AMERICA.--In America, the calf is left with the
    mother for three or four days, when it is removed, and at once
    fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel, 1
    quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of
    water. One quart of this certainly nutritious gruel, is to be
    given, lukewarm, morning and evening. In ten days, a bundle of
    soft hay is put beside the calf, which he soon begins to eat,
    and, at the same time, some of the dry meal is placed in his
    manger for him to lick. This process, gradually increasing the
    quantity of gruel twice a day, is continued for two months, till
    the calf is fit to go to grass, and, as it is said, with the
    best possible success. But, in this country, the mode pointed
    out in No. 862 has received the sanction of the best experience.

CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

865. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2 apples
sliced, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2
pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions and apples, and fry them in a little butter;
then take them out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these of a
pale brown; add the curry-powder and flour, put in the onion, apples,
and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender; add the
lemon-juice, and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may be
ornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily on
the top.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.


VEAL CUTLETS (an Entree).

866. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal,
egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and
popper to taste, a small piece of butter.

[Illustration: VEAL CUTLETS.]

_Mode_.--Have the veal cut into slices about 3/4 of an inch in
thickness, and, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with a
cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, and brush them
over with egg. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been mixed
minced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press the crumbs
down. Fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter, and be
careful not to burn them. They should be very thoroughly done, but not
dry. If the cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at
a good distance from the fire, after they have acquired a good colour:
by this means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish,
keep them hot, and make a gravy in the pan as follows: Dredge in a
little flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, brown it, then
pour as much boiling water as is required over it, season with pepper
and salt, add a little lemon-juice, give one boil, and pour it over the
cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon, and a
few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to this
dish.

_Time_.--For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes; if very
thick, allow more time.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--Veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown;
the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe.
They may also be cut from the loin or neck, as shown in the engraving.


BROILED VEAL CUTLETS a l'Italienne (an Entree).

867. INGREDIENTS.--Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of 1
egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of Italian sauce No. 453.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely; powder
over them a little salt and pepper; brush them over with the yolk of an
egg, dip them into bread crumbs, then into clarified butter, and,
afterwards, in the bread crumbs again; broil or fry them over a clear
fire, that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them in the
dish alternately with rashers of broiled ham, and pour the sauce, made
by recipe No. 453, in the middle.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlets.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    THE CALF'S-HEAD CLUB.--When the restoration of Charles II. took
    the strait waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the
    Commonwealth period, and gave a loose rein to the
    long-compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a
    large section of society wedded to the former state of things.
    The elders of this party retired from public sight, where,
    unoffended by the reigning saturnalia, they might dream in
    seclusion over their departed Utopia. The young bloods of this
    school, however, who were compelled to mingle in the world, yet
    detesting the politics which had become the fashion, adopted a
    novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments, and
    mark their contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly
    met, in considerable numbers, at some convenient inn, on the
    30th of January in each year,--the anniversary of Charles's
    death, and dined together off a feast prepared from _calves'
    heads_, dressed in every possible variety of way, and with an
    abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the
    house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Holl Cromwell;
    and having lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast
    young Puritans, with their white handkerchiefs stained _red_ in
    wine, and one of the party in a mask, bearing an axe, followed
    by the chairman, carrying a _calf's head_ pinned up in a napkin,
    marched in mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with
    great shouts and uproar, they flung the enveloped head. This odd
    custom was continued for some time, and even down to the early
    part of this century it was customary for men of republican
    politics always to dine off calf's head on the 30th of January.


VEAL CUTLETS a la Maintenon (an Entree).

868. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a
little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets about 3/4 inch in thickness, flatten them, and
brush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread crumbs and
minced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and fold
each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil them, and send them to
table with melted butter or a good gravy.


_Time_.--From 15 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


VEAL A LA BOURGEOISE.

(_Excellent_.)

869. INGREDIENTS.--2 to 3 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 10 or 12
young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon, 2 blades
of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a
few new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings
into a stewpan with a little butter; lay in the cutlets and fry them a
nice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice,
herbs, and seasoning; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and stew
gently for 2 hours on a very slow fire. When done, skim off the fat,
take out the herbs, and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce and
ketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes, boiled _separately_; put them
with the veal, and serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to August with peas;--rather earlier when these
are omitted.


SCOTCH COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

870. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, a little butter,
flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced
lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather larger
than a crown-piece; flour the meat well, and fry a light brown in
butter; dredge again with flour, and add 1/2 pint of water, pouring it
in by degrees; set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the onion and
mace, and let it simmer very gently about 3/4 hour; flavour the gravy
with lemon-juice, peel, wine, and ketchup, in the above proportion; give
one boil, and serve.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


SCOTCH COLLOPS, WHITE (Cold Meat Cookery).

871. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, a
little butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/4 pint of water, 1
teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1
teaspoonful of lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 3
tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of sherry.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into thin slices about 3 inches in width; hack
them with a knife, and grate on them the nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and
salt, and fry them in a little butter. Dish them, and make a gravy in
the pan by putting in the remaining ingredients. Give one boil, and pour
it over the collops; garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon,
rolled. Forcemeat balls may be added to this dish. If cream is not at
hand, substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk.

_Time_.--About 5 or 7 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from May to October.

    COOKING COLLOPS.--Dean Ramsay, who tells us, in his
    "Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character," a number of
    famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted, and
    plain-spoken old dames of the north, gives, amongst them, the
    following:--A strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the
    character of a cook she was about to hire. The lady who was
    giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral
    qualifications, and described her as a very decent woman; to
    which the astounding reply--this was 60 years ago, and a Dean
    tells the story--"Oh, d--n her decency; can she make good
    collops?"

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.

872. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter.

_Mode_.--Have the fillet cut according to the size required; take out
the bone, and after raising the skin from the meat, put under the flap a
nice forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417. Prepare sufficient of this, as
there should be some left to eat cold, and to season and flavour a mince
if required. Skewer and bind the veal up in a round form; dredge well
with flour, put it down at some distance from the fire at first, and
baste continually. About 1/2 hour before serving, draw it nearer the
fire, that it may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of a
rich brown, but not burnt. Dish it, remove the skewers, which replace by
a silver one; pour over the joint some good melted butter, and serve
with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send a cut
lemon to table with roast veal.

[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.]

_Time_.--A fillet of veal weighing 12 lbs., about 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.

873. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417, thickening
of butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, 2
tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 glass of
sherry.

_Mode_.--If the whole of the leg is purchased, take off the knuckle to
stew, and also the square end, which will serve for cutlets or pies.
Remove the bone, and fill the space with a forcemeat No. 417. Roll and
skewer it up firmly; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan to
prevent the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with a little weak
stock. Let it simmer very _gently_ until tender, as the more slowly veal
is stewed, the better. Strain and thicken the sauce, flavour it with
lemon-juice, mace, sherry, and white pepper; give one boil, and pour it
over the meat. The skewers should be removed, and replaced by a silver
one, and the dish garnished with slices of cut lemon.

_Time_.--A. fillet of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' very gentle
stewing.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


THE GOLDEN CALF.--We are told in the book of Genesis, that Aaron, in the
lengthened absence of Moses, was constrained by the impatient people to
make them an image to worship; and that Aaron, instead of using his
delegated power to curb this sinful expression of the tribes, and
appease the discontented Jews, at once complied with their demand, and,
telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets, fashioned out of
their willing contributions a calf of gold, before which the multitude
fell down and worshipped. Whether this image was a solid figure of gold,
or a wooden effigy merely, coated with metal, is uncertain. To suppose
the former,--knowing the size of the image made from such trifling
articles as rings, we must presuppose the Israelites to have spoiled the
Egyptians most unmercifully: the figure, however, is of more consequence
than the weight or size of the idol. That the Israelite brought away
more from Goshen than the plunder of the Egyptians, and that they were
deeply imbued with Egyptian superstition, the golden calf is only one,
out of many instances of proof; for a gilded ox, covered with a pall,
was in that country an emblem of Osiris, one of the gods of the Egyptian
trinity. Besides having a sacred cow, and many varieties of the holy
bull, this priest-ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of the
sun, and offered to it divine honours, as the emblem of frugality,
industry, and husbandry. It is therefore probable that, in borrowing so
familiar a type, the Israelites, in their calf-worship, meant, under a
well-understood cherubic symbol, to acknowledge the full force of those
virtues, under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hosea
is full of denunciations against calf-worship in Israel, and alludes to
the custom of kissing these idols, Hosea, viii, 4-6.


FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (an Entree).

874. INGREDIENTS.--A piece of the fat side of a leg of veal (about 3
lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2
blades of pounded mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay-leaves, pepper to taste,
a few slices of fat bacon, 1 pint of stock No. 107.

[Illustration: FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.]

_Mode_.--The veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality, or it
will not be good. It may be known by the meat being white and not
thready. Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the table, then at one
stroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeau
with an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it, and with a sharp knife
make two or three slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the
seasoning. Now lard it thickly with fat bacon, as lean gives a red
colour to the fricandeau. Slice the vegetables, and put these, with the
herbs and spices, in the _middle_ of a stewpan, with a few slices of
bacon at the top: these should form a sort of mound in the centre for
the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle over
it a little salt, and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon,
&c., without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil; then
put it over a slow and equal fire, and let it _simmer very_ gently for
about 2-1/2 hours, or longer should it be very large. Baste it
frequently with the liquor, and a short time before serving, put it into
a brisk oven, to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break when
it was glazed. Dish the fricandeau, keep it hot, skim off the fat from
the liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, with which glaze the
fricandeau, and serve with a purée of whatever vegetable happens to be
in season--spinach, sorrel, asparagus, cucumbers, peas, &c.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. If very large, allow more time.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (_More economical_.)

875. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of a neck of veal (about 2-1/2 lbs.),
lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of
mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little whole white pepper, a few slices of fat
bacon.

_Mode_.--Cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal with a
sharp knife, scooping it from the bones. Put the bones in with a little
water, which will serve to moisten the fricandeau: they should stew
about 1-1/2 hour. Lard the veal, proceed in the same way as in the
preceding recipe, and be careful that the gravy does not touch the
fricandeau. Stew very gently for 3 hours; glaze, and serve it on sorrel,
spinach, or with a little gravy in the dish.

_Time_.--3 hours.

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--When the prime part of the leg is cut off, it spoils the whole;
consequently, to use this for a fricandeau is rather extravagant. The
best end of the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well.


BOILED CALF'S HEAD (with the Skin on).

876. INGREDIENTS.--Calf's head, boiling water, bread crumbs, 1 large
bunch of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3
grains of cayenne.

_Mode_.--Put the head into boiling water, and let it remain by the side
of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes; take it out, hold it by the ear, and
with the back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should it not come off
easily, dip the head again into boiling water). When perfectly clean,
take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain, which soak
for an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water to soak for a few
minutes, to make it look white, and then have ready a stewpan, into
which lay the head; cover it with cold water, and bring it gradually to
boil. Remove the scum, and add a little salt, which assists to throw it
up. Simmer it very gently from 2-1/2 to 3 hours, and when nearly done,
boil the brains for 1/4 hour; skin and chop them, not too finely, and
add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded.
Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains, parsley, &c., into
about 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add the lemon-juice and
cayenne, and keep these hot by the side of the fire. Take up the head,
cut out the tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish with the brains
round it; sprinkle over the head a few bread crumbs mixed with a little
minced parsley; brown these before the fire, and serve with a tureen of
parsley and butter, and either boiled bacon, ham, or pickled pork as an
accompaniment.

_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours.

_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. to 7s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


BOILED CALF'S HEAD (without the Skin).

877. INGREDIENTS.--Calf's head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoonfuls
of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]

[Illustration: HALF A CALF'S HEAD.]

_Mode_.--After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, and the brains
removed, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Lay the brains also into
warm water to soak, and let them remain for about an hour. Put the head
into a stewpan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when it
boils, add a little salt; take off every particle of scum as it rises,
and boil the head until perfectly tender. Boil the brains, chop them,
and mix with them melted butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt, and
lemon-juice in the above proportion. Take up the head, skin the tongue,
and put it on a small dish with the brains round it. Have ready some
parsley and butter, smother the head with it, and the remainder send to
table in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled pork, or a pig's cheek, are
indispensable with calf's head. The brains are sometimes chopped with
hard-boiled eggs, and mixed with a little Béchamel or white sauce.

_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2-1/4 hours.

_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. to 5s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--The liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved: it
makes excellent soup, and will be found a nice addition to gravies, &c.
Half a calf's head is as frequently served as a whole one, it being a
more convenient-sized joint for a small family. It is cooked in the same
manner, and served with the same sauces, as in the preceding recipe.


HASHED CALF'S HEAD (Cold Meat Cookery).

878. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold boiled calf's head, 1 quart of
the liquor in which it was boiled, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1
carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades of pounded mace, salt and white
pepper to taste, a very little cayenne, rather more than 2
tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1
tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, forcemeat balls.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat into neat slices, and put the bones and trimmings
into a stewpan with the above proportion of liquor that the head was
boiled in. Add a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of
lemon-peel, and 2 blades of pounded mace, and let these boil for 1 hour,
or until the gravy is reduced nearly half. Strain it into a clean
stewpan, thicken it with a little butter and flour, and add a flavouring
of sherry, lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the above proportion; season
with pepper, salt, and a little cayenne; put in the meat, let it
_gradually_ warm through, but not boil more than _two_ or _three_
minutes. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and pieces of bacon
rolled and toasted, placed alternately, and send it to table very hot.

_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the remains of the head, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


VEAL COLLOPS (an Entree).

879. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal, a
few slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, cayenne to taste, egg and bread
crumbs, gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into long thin collops, flatten them, and lay on
each a piece of thin bacon of the same size; have ready some forcemeat,
made by recipe No. 417, which spread over the bacon, sprinkle over all a
little cayenne, roll them up tightly, and do not let them be more than 2
inches long. Skewer each one firmly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry
them a nice brown in a little butter, turning them occasionally, and
shaking the pan about. When done, place them on a dish before the fire;
put a small piece of butter in the pan, dredge in a little flour, add
1/4 pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a seasoning of salt,
pepper, and pounded mace; let the whole boil up, and pour it over the
collops.

_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


CALF'S LIVER AUX FINES HERBES & SAUCE PIQUANTE.

880. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs,
including parsley; when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 teaspoonful of flour,
1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, pepper and
salt to taste, 1/4 pint water.

_Mode_.--Procure a calf's liver as white as possible, and cut it into
slices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of a
good colour in a little butter. When they are done, put them on a dish,
which keep hot before the fire. Mince the herbs very fine, put them in
the frying-pan with a little more butter; add the remaining ingredients,
simmer gently until the herbs are done, and pour over the liver.

_Time_.--According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


CALF'S LIVER AND BACON.

881. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of liver, bacon, pepper and salt to
taste, a small piece of butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice,
1/4 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the liver in thin slices, and cut as many slices of bacon
as there are of liver; fry the bacon first, and put that on a hot dish
before the fire. Fry the liver in the fat which comes from the bacon,
after seasoning it with pepper and salt and dredging over it a very
little flour. Turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, and
when done, lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon between each.
Pour away the bacon fat, put in a small piece of butter, dredge in a
little flour, add the lemon-juice and water, give one boil, and pour it
in the _middle_ of the dish. It may be garnished with slices of cut
lemon, or forcemeat balls.

_Time_.--According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


CALF'S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED (an Entree).

882. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's liver, vinegar, 1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs of
parsley and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, lardoons, brown
gravy.

_Mode_.--Take a fine white liver, and lard it the same as a fricandeau;
put it into vinegar with an onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf, and seasoning in the above proportion. Let it remain in this
pickle for 24 hours, then roast and baste it frequently with the
vinegar, &c.; glaze it, serve under it a good brown gravy, or sauce
piquante, and send it to table very hot.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--Calf's liver stuffed with forcemeat No. 417, to which has been
added a little fat bacon, will be found a very savoury dish. It should
be larded or wrapped in buttered paper, and roasted before a clear fire.
Brown gravy and currant jelly should be served with it.


FILLET OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).

883. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No.
367, a few bread crumbs, clarified butter.

_Mode_.--A fillet of real that has been roasted the preceding day will
answer very well for this dish. Cut the middle out rather deep, leaving
a good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, and if there should
be any cracks in the veal, fill them up with forcemeat. Mince finely the
meat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of the forcemeat to
flavour, and stir to it sufficient Béchamel to make it of a proper
consistency. Warm the veal in the oven for about an hour, taking care to
baste it well, that it may not be dry; put the mince in the place where
the meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over it, and drop a
little clarified butter on the bread crumbs; put it into the oven for
1/4 hour to brown, and pour Béchamel round the sides of the dish.

_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


TO RAGOUT A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

884. INGREDIENTS.--Knuckle of veal, pepper and salt to taste, flour, 1
onion, 1 head of celery, or a little celery-seed, a faggot of savoury
herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, a few
young carrots, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of tomato
sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the juice of 1/4 lemon.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat slices, season
with pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in a little
butter of a pale brown, and put them into a stewpan with the bone (which
should be chopped in several places); add the celery, herbs, mace, and
carrots; pour over all about 1 pint of hot water, and let it simmer very
gently for 2 hours, over a slow but clear fire. Take out the slices of
meat and carrots, strain and thicken the gravy with a little butter
rolled in flour; add the remaining ingredients, give one boil, put back
the meat and carrots, let these get hot through, and serve. When in
season, a few green peas, _boiled separately_, and added to this dish at
the moment of serving, would be found a very agreeable addition.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. to 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.


STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE.

885. INGREDIENTS.--Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, 1
teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 lb. of rice.

[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.]

_Mode_.--Have the knuckle cut small, or cut some cutlets from it, that
it may be just large enough to be eaten the same day it is dressed, as
cold boiled veal is not a particularly tempting dish. Break the
shank-bone, wash it clean, and put the meat into a stewpan with
sufficient water to cover it. Let it gradually come to a boil, put in
the salt, and remove the scum as fast as it rises. When it has simmered
gently for about 3/4 hour, add the remaining ingredients, and stew the
whole gently for 2-1/4 hours. Put the meat into a deep dish, pour over
it the rice, &c., and send boiled bacon, and a tureen of parsley and
butter to table with it.

_Time_.--A knuckle of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' gentle stewing.

_Average cost_, 5d. to 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--Macaroni, instead of rice, boiled with the veal, will be found
good; or the rice and macaroni may be omitted, and the veal sent to
table smothered in parsley and butter.


ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.

[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.]

886. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; melted butter.

_Mode_.--Paper the kidney fat; roll in and skewer the flap, which makes
the joint a good shape; dredge it well with flour, and put it down to a
bright fire. Should the loin be very large, skewer the kidney back for a
time to roast thoroughly. Keep it well basted, and a short time before
serving, remove the paper from the kidney, and allow it to acquire a
nice brown colour, but it should not be burnt. Have ready some melted
butter, put it into the dripping-pan after it is emptied of its
contents, pour it over the veal, and serve. Garnish the dish with slices
of lemon and forcemeat balls, and send to table with it, boiled bacon,
ham, pickled pork, or pig's cheek.

_Time_.--A large loin, 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 9-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--A piece of toast should be placed under the kidney when the
veal is dished.


LOIN OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).

887. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel,
rather more than 1/2 pint of Béchamel or white sauce.

_Mode_.--A loin of veal which has come from table with very little taken
off, answers very well for this dish. Cut off the meat from the inside,
mince it, and mix with it some minced lemon-peel; put it into sufficient
Béchamel to warm through. In the mean time, wrap the joint in buttered
paper, and place it in the oven to warm. When thoroughly hot, dish the
mince, place the loin above it, and pour over the remainder of the
Béchamel.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to warm the meat in the oven.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


LOIN OF VEAL, a la Daube.

888. INGREDIENTS.--The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat No. 417, a
few slices of bacon, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1/2
teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or water, 5 or 6
green onions.

_Mode_.--Cut off the chump from a loin of veal, and take out the bone;
fill the cavity with forcemeat No. 417, tie it up tightly, and lay it in
a stewpan with the bones and trimmings, and cover the veal with a few
slices of bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, and onions, and stock or
water; cover the pan with a closely-fitting lid, and simmer for 2 hours,
shaking the stewpan occasionally. Take out the bacon, herbs, and onions;
reduce the gravy, if not already thick enough, to a glaze, with which
glaze the meat, and serve with tomato, mushroom, or sorrel sauce.

_Time_.--2 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


MINCED VEAL, with Béchamel Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery).

(_Very Good_.)

889. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel
sauce No. 367, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, forcemeat balls.

_Mode_.--Cut--but do not _chop_--a few slices of cold roast veal as
finely as possible, sufficient to make rather more than 1 lb., weighed
after being minced. Make the above proportion of Béchamel, by recipe No.
367; add the lemon-peel, put in the veal, and let the whole gradually
warm through. When it is at the point of simmering, dish it, and garnish
with forcemeat balls and fried sippets of bread.

_Time_.--To simmer 1 minute.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


MINCED VEAL.

(_More Economical_.)

890. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fillet or loin of veal,
rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced
lemon-peel, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2
or 3 young carrots, a faggot of sweet herbs, thickening of butter and
flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or
milk.

_Mode_.--Take about 1 lb. of veal, and should there be any bones, dredge
them with flour, and put them into a stewpan with the brown outside, and
a few meat trimmings; add rather more than a pint of water, the onion
cut in slices, lemon-peel, seasoning, mace, carrots, and herbs; simmer
these well for rather more than 1 hour, and strain the liquor. Rub a
little flour into some butter; add this to the gravy, set it on the
fire, and, when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal finely by _cutting_,
and not chopping it; put it in the gravy; let it get warmed through
gradually; add the lemon-juice and cream, and, when it is on the point
of boiling, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread and
slices of bacon rolled and toasted. Forcemeat balls may also be added.
If more lemon-peel is liked than is stated above, put a little very
finely minced to the veal, after it is warmed in the gravy.

_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER.--A singular symbolical
    ceremony existed among the Hebrews, in which the calf performed
    a most important part. The calf being a type or symbol of Divine
    power, or what was called the _Elohim_,--the Almighty
    intelligence that brought them out of Egypt,--was looked upon
    much in the same light by the Jews, as the cross subsequently
    was by the Christians, a mystical emblem of the Divine passion
    and goodness. Consequently, an oath taken on either the calf or
    the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by Jew or
    Nazarene, and the breaking of it a soul-staining perjury on
    themselves, and an insult and profanation directly offered to
    the Almighty. To render the oath more impressive and solemn, it
    was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple, when,
    the priests having divided the carcase into a certain number of
    parts, and with intervening spaces, arranged the severed limbs
    on the marble pavement, the one, or all the party, if there were
    many individuals, to be bound by the oath, repeating the words
    of the compact, threaded their way in and out through the
    different spaces, till they had taken the circuit of each
    portion of the divided calf, when the ceremony was concluded. To
    avert the anger of the Lord, when Jerusalem was threatened by
    Nebuchadnezzar and his Babylonian host, the Jews had made a
    solemn to God, ratified by the ceremony of the calf, if He
    released them from their dreaded foe, to cancel the servitude of
    their Hebrew brethren. After investing the city for some time,
    and reducing the inhabitants to dreadful suffering and
    privation, the Babylonians, hearing that Pharaoh, whom the Jews
    had solicited for aid, was rapidly approaching with a powerful
    army, hastily raised the siege, and, removing to a distance,
    took up a position where they could intercept the Egyptians, and
    still cover the city. No sooner did the Jews behold the retreat
    of the enemy, than they believed all danger was past, and, with
    their usual turpitude, they repudiated their oath, and refused
    to liberate their oppressed countrymen. For this violation of
    their covenant with the Lord, they were given over to all the
    horrors of the sword, pestilence, and famine--Jeremiah, xxxiv.
    15-17.

MINCED VEAL AND MACARONI.

(_A pretty side or corner dish_.)

891. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. of ham, 1
tablespoonful of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 3 teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggs
to bind, a small piece of butter.

_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim off the
brown outside, and mince the meat finely with the above proportion of
ham: should the meat be very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. Season
highly with pepper and salt, add the grated nutmeg and bread crumbs, and
mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, which should bind
the mixture and make it like forcemeat. In the mean time, boil the
macaroni in salt and water, and drain it; butter a mould, put some of
the macaroni at the bottom and sides of it, in whatever form is liked;
mix the remainder with the forcemeat, fill the mould up to the top, put
a plate or small dish on it, and steam for 1/2 hour. Turn it out
carefully, and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the
meat.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 10d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--To make a variety, boil some carrots and turnips separately in
a little salt and water; when done, cut them into pieces about 1/8 inch
in thickness; butter an oval mould, and place these in it, in white and
red stripes alternately, at the bottom and sides. Proceed as in the
foregoing recipe, and be very careful in turning it out of the mould.


MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

892. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon,
1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/2 onion chopped fine, salt,
pepper, and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1
egg.

_Mode_.--Mince the meat very fine, after removing from it all skin and
outside pieces, and chop the bacon; mix these well together, adding the
lemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and toast. When all the ingredients
are thoroughly incorporated, heat up an egg, with which bind the
mixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat, and hake for 3/4 hour; turn it
out of the mould carefully, and pour round it a good brown gravy. A
sheep's head dressed in this manner is an economical and savoury dish.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


BRAISED NECK OF VEAL.

893. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of the neck of veal (from 3 to 4 lbs.),
bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated
nutmeg to taste; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a little celery (when this is not
obtainable, use the seed), 1/2 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and
flour, lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace.

_Mode_.--Prepare the bacon for larding, and roll it in minced parsley,
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; lard the veal, put it into a stewpan
with a few slices of lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, and celery;
and do not quite cover it with water. Stew it gently for 2 hours, or
until it is quite tender; strain off the liquor; stir together over the
fire, in a stewpan, a little flour and butter until brown; lay the veal
in this, the upper side to the bottom of the pan, and let it remain till
of a nice brown colour. Place it in the dish; pour into the stewpan as
much gravy as is required, boil it up, skim well, add the wine, pounded
mace, and lemon-juice; simmer for 3 minutes, pour it over the meat, and
serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 8d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    BIRTH OF CALVES.--The cow seldom produces more than a single
    calf; sometimes, twins, and, very rarely, three. A French
    newspaper, however,--the "Nouveau Bulletin des Sciences,"--gave
    a trustworthy but extraordinary account of a cow which produced
    nine calves in all, at three successive births, in three
    successive years. The first year, four cow calves; the second
    year, three calves, two of them females; the third year, two
    calves, both females. With the exception of two belonging to the
    first birth, all were suckled by the mother.

ROAST NECK OF VEAL.

894. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, melted butter, forcemeat balls.

_Mode_.--Have the veal cut from the best end of the neck; dredge it with
flour, and put it down to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted; dish
it, pour over it some melted butter, and garnish the dish with fried
forcemeat balls; send to table with a cut lemon. The scrag may be boiled
or stewed in various ways, with rice, onion-sauce, or parsley and
butter.

_Time_.--About 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--4 or 5 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).

895. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of cold fillet of veal, a few thin
slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, a cupful of gravy, 4 tablespoonfuls
of cream, puff-crust.

_Mode_.--Cut thin slices from a fillet of veal, place on them thin
slices of bacon, and over them a layer of forcemeat, made by recipe No.
417, with an additional seasoning of shalot and cayenne; roll them
tightly, and fill up a pie-dish with them; add the gravy and cream,
cover with a puff-crust, and bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hour: should the pie be
very large, allow 2 hours. The pieces of rolled veal should be about 3
inches in length, and about 3 inches round.

_Time_.--Moderate-sized pie, 1 to 1-1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


FRIED PATTIES (Cold Meat Cookery).

896. INGREDIENTS.--Cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 1 egg
boiled hard, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1
teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, good puff-paste.

_Mode_.--Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one-third ham to
two-thirds veal; add an egg boiled hard and chopped, and a seasoning of
pounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel; moisten with a little gravy
and cream. Make a good puff-paste; roll rather thin, and cut it into
round or square pieces; put the mince between two of them, pinch the
edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. They may be also
baked in patty-pans: in that case, they should be brushed over with the
yolk of an egg before they are put in the oven. To make a variety,
oysters may be substituted for the ham.

_Time_.--15 minutes to fry the patties.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


VEAL PIE.

897. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon
or ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury
herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, crust, 1 teacupful of gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets into square pieces, and season them with
pepper, salt, and pounded mace; put them in a pie-dish with the savoury
herbs sprinkled over, and 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham placed at
the top: if possible, this should be previously cooked, as undressed
bacon makes the veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour in a little
water, cover with crust, ornament it in any way that is approved; brush
it over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for
about 1-1/2 hour. Pour in a good gravy after baking, which is done by
removing the top ornament, and replacing it after the gravy is added.

_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    A VERY VEAL DINNER.--At a dinner given by Lord Polkemmet, a
    Scotch nobleman and judge, his guests saw, when the covers were
    removed, that the fare consisted of veal broth, a roasted fillet
    of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a calf's head, and
    calf's-foot jelly. The judge, observing the surprise of his
    guests, volunteered an explanation.--"Oh, ay, it's a' cauf;
    when we kill a beast, we just eat up ae side, and doun the
    tither."

VEAL AND HAM PIE.

898. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1/2 lb. of boiled ham, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, a strip of
lemon-peel finely minced, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of
water, nearly 1/2 pint of good strong gravy, puff-crust.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into nice square pieces, and put a layer of them
at the bottom of a pie-dish; sprinkle over these a portion of the herbs,
spices, seasoning, lemon-peel, and the yolks of the eggs cut in slices;
cut the ham very thin, and put a layer of this in. Proceed in this
manner until the dish is full, so arranging it that the ham comes at the
top. Lay a puff-paste on the edge of the dish, and pour in about 1/2
pint of water; cover with crust, ornament it with leaves, brush it over
with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for 1 to 1-1/2
hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. When it is taken out of
the oven, pour in at the top, through a funnel, nearly 1/2 pint of
strong gravy: this should be made sufficiently good that, when cold, it
may cut in a firm jelly. This pie may be very much enriched by adding a
few mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads; but it will be found very good
without any of the last-named additions.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. _Average
cost_, 3s. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to
October.


POTTED VEAL (for Breakfast).

899. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of veal allow 1/4 lb. of ham, cayenne
and pounded mace to taste, 6 oz. of fresh butter; clarified butter.

_Mode_.--Mince the veal and ham together as finely as possible, and
pound well in a mortar, with cayenne, pounded mace, and fresh butter in
the above proportion. When reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, press it
into potting-pots, and cover with clarified butter. If kept in a cool
place, it will remain good some days.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    NAMES OF CALVES, &c.--During the time the young male calf is
    suckled by his mother, he is called a bull-or ox-calf; when
    turned a year old, he is called a stirk, stot, or yearling; on
    the completion of his second year, he is called a two-year-old
    bull or steer (and in some counties a twinter); then, a
    three-year-old steer; and at four, an ox or a bullock, which
    latter names are retained till death. It may be here remarked,
    that the term ox is used as a general or common appellation for
    neat cattle, in a specific sense, and irrespective of sex; as
    the British ox, the Indian ox. The female is termed cow, but
    while sucking the mother, a cow-calf; at the age of a year, she
    is called a yearling quey; in another year, a heifer, or
    twinter; then, a three-year-old quey or twinter; and, at four
    years old, a cow. Other names, to be regarded as provincialisms,
    may exist in different districts.

RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

900. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold veal, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint
of gravy, thickening of butter and flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1
blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1
tablespoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeat
balls.

_Mode_.--Any part of veal will make this dish. Cut the meat into
nice-looking pieces, put them in a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, and fry
a light brown; add the gravy (hot water may be substituted for this),
thicken with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about 1/4 hour;
season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; add the ketchup, sherry, and
lemon-juice; give one boil, and serve. Garnish the dish with forcemeat
balls and fried rashers of bacon.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--The above recipe may be varied, by adding vegetables, such as
peas, cucumbers, lettuces, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two of
green gooseberries (not seedy), all of which should be fried a little
with the meat, and then stewed in the gravy.


VEAL RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).

901. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of ham
or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 tablespoonful of minced
savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg,
cayenne and salt to taste, 2 eggs well beaten, bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Mince the veal very finely with a little ham or bacon; add the
parsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning; mix into a paste with an egg;
form into balls or cones; brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread
crumbs, and fry a rich brown. Serve with brown gravy, and garnish the
dish with fried parsley.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry the rissoles.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


VEAL ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).

902. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold fillet of veal, egg and bread
crumbs, a few slices of fat bacon, forcemeat No. 417.

_Mode_.--Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal 1/2 inch thick; rub
them over with egg; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece of
veal; brush these with the egg, and over this spread the forcemeat
thinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry
them a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to fry the rolls.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


SHOULDER OF VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed.

903. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of veal, a few slices of ham or bacon,
forcemeat No. 417, 3 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, a
faggot of savoury herbs, 3 blades of pounded mace, water, thickening of
butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Bone the joint by carefully detaching the meat from the
blade-bone on one side, and then on the other, being particular not to
pierce the skin; then cut the bone from the knuckle, and take it out.
Fill the cavity whence the bone was taken with a forcemeat made by
recipe No. 417. Roll and bind the veal up tightly; put it into a
stew-pan with the carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and mace; pour in
just sufficient water to cover it, and let it stew _very gently_ for
about 5 hours. Before taking it up, try if it is properly done by
thrusting a larding-needle in it: if it penetrates easily, it is
sufficiently cooked. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with butter and
flour, give one boil, and pour it round the meat. A few young carrots
may be boiled and placed round the dish as a garnish, and, when in
season, green peas should always be served with this dish.

_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to October.

    THE FATTENING OF CALVES.--The fattening of calves for the market
    is an important business in Lanarkshire or Clydesdale, and
    numbers of newly-dropped calves are regularly carried there from
    the farmers of the adjacent districts, in order to be prepared
    for the butcher. The mode of feeding them is very simple; milk
    is the chief article of their diet, and of this the calves
    require a sufficient supply from first to last. Added to this,
    they must be kept in a well-aired place, neither too hot nor too
    cold, and freely supplied with dry litter. It is usual to
    exclude the light,--at all events to a great degree, and to put
    within their reach a lump of chalk, which they are very fond of
    licking. Thus fed, calves, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks, often
    attain a very large size; viz., 18 to 20 stone, exclusive of the
    offal. Far heavier weights have occurred, and without any
    deterioration in the delicacy and richness of the flesh. This
    mode of feeding upon milk alone at first appears to be very
    expensive, but it is not so, when all things are taken into
    consideration; for at the age of 9 or 10 weeks a calf,
    originally purchased for 8 shillings, will realize nearly the
    same number of pounds. For 4, or even 6 weeks, the milk of one
    cow is sufficient,--indeed half that quantity is enough for the
    first fortnight; but after the 5th or 6th week it will consume
    the greater portion of the milk of two moderate cows; but then
    it requires neither oil-cake nor linseed, nor any other food.
    Usually, however, the calves are not kept beyond the age of 6
    weeks, and will then sell for 5 or 6 pounds each: the milk of
    the cow is then ready for a successor. In this manner a relay of
    calves may be prepared for the markets from early spring to the
    end of summer, a plan more advantageous than that of overfeeding
    one to a useless degree of corpulency.

VEAL SAUSAGES.

904. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal; to every
lb. of meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced sage, salt and pepper to
taste.

_Mode_.--Chop the meat and bacon finely, and to every lb. allow the
above proportion of very finely-minced sage; add a seasoning of pepper
and salt, mix the whole well together, make it into flat cakes, and fry
a nice brown.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


STEWED VEAL, with Peas, young Carrots, and new Potatoes.

905. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 15 young
carrots, a few green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 new potatoes, a
bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Dredge the meat with flour, and roast or bake it for about 3/4
hour: it should acquire a nice brown colour. Put the meat into a stewpan
with the carrots, onions, potatoes, herbs, pepper, and salt; pour over
it sufficient boiling water to cover it, and stew gently for 2 hours.
Take out the meat and herbs, put it in a deep dish, skim off all the fat
from the gravy, and flavour it with lemon-juice, tomato sauce, and
mushroom ketchup in the above proportion. Have ready a pint of green
peas boiled; put these with the meat, pour over it the gravy, and
serve. The dish may be garnished with a few forcemeat balls. The meat,
when preferred, may be cut into chops, and floured and fried instead of
being roasted; and any part of veal dressed in this way will be found
extremely savoury and good.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August.


BAKED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).

906. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, oiled butter, 3
slices of toast, brown gravy.

[Illustration: SWEETBREADS.]

_Mode_.--Choose large white sweetbreads; put them into warm water to
draw out the blood, and to improve their colour; let them remain for
rather more than 1 hour; then put them into boiling water, and allow
them to simmer for about 10 minutes, which renders them firm. Take them
up, drain them, brush over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs; dip
them in egg again, and then into more bread crumbs. Drop on them a
little oiled butter, and put the sweetbreads into a moderately-heated
oven, and let them bake for nearly 3/4 hour. Make 3 pieces of toast;
place the sweetbreads on the toast, and pour round, but not over them, a
good brown gravy.

_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, baked 40 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. to 5s. _Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.


FRIED SWEETBREADS a la Maitre d'Hotel (an Entree).

907. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of
butter, salt and pepper to taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of Maître
d'hôtel sauce No. 466.

_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour; then boil them
for 10 minutes; cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them, season
with pepper and salt, and put them into a frying-pan, with the above
proportion of butter. Keep turning them until done, which will be in
about 10 minutes; dish them, and pour over them a Maître d'hôtel sauce,
made by recipe No. 466. The dish may be garnished with slices of cut
lemon.

_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be broiled 10 minutes, to be fried about 10
minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. to 5s., according to the season.

_Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.

_Note_.--The egg and bread crumb may be omitted, and the slices of
sweetbread dredged with a little flour instead, and a good gravy may be
substituted for the _maitre d'hôtel_ sauce. This is a very simple method
of dressing them.


STEWED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).

908. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of white stock No. 107,
thickening of butter and flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace, white pepper and
salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for 1 hour, and boil them
for 10 minutes; take them out, put them into cold water for a few
minutes; lay them in a stewpan with the stock, and simmer them gently
for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish them; thicken the gravy with a
little butter and flour; let it boil up, add the remaining ingredients,
allow the sauce to get quite _hot_, but _not boil_, and pour it over the
sweetbreads.

_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, stewed rather more
than 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 5s., according to the season.

_Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.

_Note_.--A few mushrooms added to this dish, and stewed with the
sweetbreads, will be found an improvement.

    SEASON AND CHOICE OF VEAL.--Veal, like all other meats, has its
    season of plenty. The best veal, and the largest supply, are to
    be had from March to the end of July. It comes principally from
    the western counties, and is generally of the Alderney breed. In
    purchasing veal, its whiteness and fineness of grain should be
    considered, the colour being especially of the utmost
    consequence. Veal may be bought at all times of the year and of
    excellent quality, but is generally very dear, except in the
    months of plenty.

STEWED TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree).

909. INGREDIENTS.--The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1
faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots,
2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel.

_Mode_.--The _tendrons_ or gristles, which are found round the front of
a breast of veal, are now very frequently served as an entrée, and when
well dressed, make a nice and favourite dish. Detach the gristles from
the bone, and cut them neatly out, so as not to spoil the joint for
roasting or stewing. Put them into a stewpan, with sufficient stock, No.
107, to cover them; add the herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and
lemon, and simmer these for nearly, or quite, 4 hours. They should be
stewed until a fork will enter the meat easily. Take them up, drain
them, strain the gravy, boil it down to a glaze, with which glaze the
meat. Dish the _tendrons_ in a circle, with croûtons fried of a nice
colour placed between each; and put mushroom sauce, or a purée of green
peas or tomatoes, in the middle.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Sufficient_ for one entrée.

_Seasonable_.--With peas, from June to August.

    COW-POX, OR VARIOLA.--It is to Dr. Jenner, of Berkeley,
    Gloucestershire, who died in 1823, that we owe the practice of
    vaccination, as a preservative from the attack of that
    destructive scourge of the human race, the small-pox. The
    experiments of this philosophic man were begun in 1797, and
    published the next year. He had observed that cows were subject
    to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that those
    persons who became affected by it, while milking the cattle,
    escaped the small-pox raging around them. This fact, known to
    farmers from time immemorial, led him to a course of
    experiments, the result of which all are acquainted with.

TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree).

910. INGREDIENTS.--The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1
faggot of savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2
onions, a strip of lemon-peel, egg and bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
chopped mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry,
the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.

_Mode_.--After removing the gristles from a breast of veal, stew them
for 4 hours, as in the preceding recipe, with stock, herbs, mace,
cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon-peel. When perfectly tender, lift
them out and remove any bones or hard parts remaining. Put them between
two dishes, with a weight on the top, and when cold, cut them into
slices. Brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry a
pale brown. Take 1/2 pint of the gravy they were boiled in, add 2
tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, a seasoning of salt and pepper, the
sherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.
Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens; when it is on the _point
of boiling_, dish the tendrons in a circle, and pour the sauce in the
middle. Tendrons are dressed in a variety of ways,--with sauce à
l'Espagnole, vegetables of all kinds: when they are served with a purée,
they should always be glazed.

_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_.--Usually bought with breast of
veal.

_Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE (an Entree).

911. INGREDIENTS.--Half a calf's head, or the remains of a cold boiled
one; rather more than 1 pint of good white stock, No. 107, 1 glass of
sherry or Madeira, cayenne and salt to taste, about 12 mushroom-buttons
(when obtainable), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 gherkins, 8 quenelles or
forcemeat balls, No. 422 or 423, 12 crayfish, 12 croûtons.

_Mode_.--Half a calf's head is sufficient to make a good entrée, and if
there are any remains of a cold one left from the preceding day, it will
answer very well for this dish. After boiling the head until tender,
remove the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces; put the stock into
a stewpan, add the wine, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne; fry the
mushrooms in butter for 2 or 3 minutes, and add these to the gravy. Boil
this quickly until somewhat reduced; then put in the yolks of the
hard-boiled eggs _whole_, the whites cut in small pieces, and the
gherkins chopped. Have ready a few veal quenelles, made by recipe No.
422 or 423; add these, with the slices of head, to the other
ingredients, and let the whole get thoroughly hot, _without boiling_.
Arrange the pieces of head as high in the centre of the dish as
possible; pour over them the ragout, and garnish with the crayfish and
croûtons placed alternately. A little of the gravy should also be served
in a tureen.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to reduce the stock.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the calf's head, 2s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

    A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF VEAL.--A great authority in his native
    Paris tells us, that veal, as a meat, is but little nourishing,
    is relaxing, and sufficiently difficult of digestion. Lending
    itself, as it does, he says, in all the flowery imagery of the
    French tongue and manner, "to so many metamorphoses, it may be
    called, without exaggeration, the chameleon of the kitchen. Who
    has not eaten calf's head _au naturel_, simply boiled with the
    skin on, its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp? It
    is a dish as wholesome as it is agreeable, and one that the most
    inexperienced cook may serve with success. Calf's feet _à la
    poulette_, _au gratin_, fried, &c.; _les cervelles_, served in
    the same manner, and under the same names; sweetbreads _en
    fricandeau_, _piqués en fin_,--all these offer most satisfactory
    entrées, which the art of the cook, more or less, varies for the
    gratification of his glory and the well-being of our appetites.
    We have not spoken, in the above catalogue, either of the liver,
    or of the _fraise_, or of the ears, which also share the honour
    of appearing at our tables. Where is the man not acquainted with
    calf's liver _à la bourgeoise_, the most frequent and convenient
    dish at unpretentious tables? The _fraise_, cooked in water, and
    eaten with vinegar, is a wholesome and agreeable dish, and
    contains a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons. Calf's
    ears have, in common with the feet and _cervelles_, the
    advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or _à la
    poulette_; and besides, can be made into a _farce_, with the
    addition of peas, onions, cheese, &c. Neither is it confined to
    the calf's tongue, or even the eyes, that these shall dispute
    alone the glory of awakening the taste of man; thus, the
    _fressure_ (which, as is known, comprises the heart, the _mou_,
    and the _rate_), although not a very recherché dish, lends
    itself to all the caprices of an expert artist, and may, under
    various marvellous disguises, deceive, and please, and even
    awaken our appetite."--Verily, we might say, after this rhapsody
    of our neighbour, that his country's weal will not suffer in him
    as an able and eloquent exponent and admirer.


VEAL CARVING.


BREAST OF VEAL.

[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]

912. The carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of a
fore-quarter of lamb, when the shoulder has been taken off. The breast
of veal consists of two parts,--the rib-bones and the gristly brisket.
These two parts should first be separated by sharply passing the knife
in the direction of the lines 1, 2; when they are entirely divided, the
rib-bones should be carved in the direction of the lines 5 to 6; and the
brisket can be helped by cutting pieces in the direction 3 to 4. The
carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the
brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish, as
it often is with roast breast of veal, each person should receive a
piece.

CALF'S HEAD.

[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]

913. This is not altogether the most easy-looking dish to cut when it is
put before a carver for the first time; there is not much real
difficulty in the operation, however, when the head has been attentively
examined, and, after the manner of a phrenologist, you get to know its
bumps, good and bad. In the first place, inserting the knife quite down
to the bone, cut slices in the direction of the line 1 to 2; with each
of these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat
sweetbread, cut in the direction of from 3 to 4. The eye, and the flesh
round, are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to those at
the table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbone
being removed, there will then be found some nice lean; and the palate,
which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separate
dish there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest should
be asked to take some of these.


FILLET OF VEAL.

[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.]

914. The carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef.
Slices, not too thick, in the direction of the line 1 to 2 are cut; and
the only point to be careful about is, that the veal be _evenly_ carved.
Between the flap and the meat the stuffing is inserted, and a small
portion of this should be served to every guest. The persons whom the
host wishes most to honour should be asked if they like the delicious
brown outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly relished.


KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.]

915. The engraving, showing the dotted line from 1 to 2, sufficiently
indicates the direction which should be given to the knife in carving
this dish. The best slices are those from the thickest part of the
knuckle, that is, outside the line 1 to 2.


LOIN OF VEAL.

[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.]

916. As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of a
loin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it. If the butcher
be negligent in this matter, he should be admonished; for there is
nothing more annoying or irritating to an inexperienced carver than to
be obliged to turn his knife in all directions to find the exact place
where it should be inserted in order to divide the bones. When the
jointing is properly performed, there is little difficulty in carrying
the knife down in the direction of the line 1 to 2. To each guest should
be given a piece of the kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, and
are considered great delicacies.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XX.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS.

  "Birds, the free tenants of land, air, and ocean,
  Their forms all symmetry, their motions grace;
  In plumage delicate and beautiful;
  Thick without burthen, close as fishes' scales,
  Or loose as full-blown poppies to the breeze."

_The Pelican Island_.

917. THE DIVISIONS OF BIRDS are founded principally on their habits of
life, and the natural resemblance which their external parts, especially
their bills, bear to each other. According to Mr. Vigors, there are five
orders, each of which occupies its peculiar place on the surface of the
globe; so that the air, the forest, the land, the marsh, and the water,
has each its appropriate kind of inhabitants. These are respectively
designated as BIRDS OF PREY, PERCHERS, WALKERS, WADERS, and SWIMMERS;
and, in contemplating their variety, lightness, beauty, and wonderful
adaptation to the regions they severally inhabit, and the functions they
are destined to perform in the grand scheme of creation, our hearts are
lifted with admiration at the exhaustless ingenuity, power, and wisdom
of HIM who has, in producing them, so strikingly "manifested His
handiwork." Not only these, however, but all classes of animals, have
their peculiar ends to fulfil; and, in order that this may be
effectually performed, they are constructed in such a manner as will
enable them to carry out their conditions. Thus the quadrupeds, that are
formed to tread the earth in common with man, are muscular and vigorous;
and, whether they have passed into the servitude of man, or are
permitted to range the forest or the field, they still retain, in a high
degree, the energies with which they were originally endowed. Birds, on
the contrary, are generally feeble, and, therefore, timid. Accordingly,
wings have been given them to enable them to fly through the air, and
thus elude the force which, by nature, they are unable to resist.
Notwithstanding the natural tendency of all bodies towards the centre of
the earth, birds, when raised in the atmosphere, glide through it with
the greatest ease, rapidity, and vigour. There, they are in their
natural element, and can vary their course with the greatest
promptitude--can mount or descend with the utmost facility, and can
light on any spot with the most perfect exactness, and without the
slightest injury to themselves.

918. THE MECHANISM WHICH ENABLES BIRDS to wing their course through the
air, is both singular and instructive. Their bodies are covered with
feathers, which are much lighter than coverings of hair, with which
quadrupeds are usually clothed. The feathers are so placed as to overlap
each other, like the slates or the tiles on the roof of a house. They
are also arranged from the fore-part backwards; by which the animals are
enabled the more conveniently to cut their way through the air. Their
bones are tubular or hollow, and extremely light compared with those of
terrestrial animals. This greatly facilitates their rising from the
earth, whilst their heads, being comparatively small, their bills shaped
like a wedge, their bodies slender, sharp below, and round above,--all
these present a union of conditions, favourable, in the last degree, to
cutting their way through the aërial element to which they are
considered as more peculiarly to belong. With all these conditions,
however, birds could not fly without wings. These, therefore, are the
instruments by which they have the power of rapid locomotion, and are
constructed in such a manner as to be capable of great expansion when
struck in a downward direction. If we except, in this action, the slight
hollow which takes place on the under-side, they become almost two
planes. In order that the downward action may be accomplished to the
necessary extent, the muscles which move the wings have been made
exceedingly large; so large, indeed, that, in some instances, they have
been estimated at not less than a sixth of the weight of the whole body.
Therefore, when a bird is on the ground and intends to fly, it takes a
leap, and immediately stretching its wings, strikes them out with great
force. By this act these are brought into an oblique direction, being
turned partly upwards and partly horizontally forwards. That part of the
force which has the upward tendency is neutralized by the weight of the
bird, whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it forward. The stroke
being completed, it moves upon its wings, which, being contracted and
having their edges turned upwards, obviate, in a great measure, the
resistance of the air. When it is sufficiently elevated, it makes a
second stroke downwards, and the impulse of the air again moves it
forward. These successive strokes may be regarded as so many leaps taken
in the air. When the bird desires to direct its course to the right or
the left, it strikes strongly with the opposite wing, which impels it to
the proper side. In the motions of the animal, too, the tail takes a
prominent part, and acts like the rudder of a ship, except that, instead
of sideways, it moves upwards and downwards. If the bird wishes to rise,
it raises its tail; and if to fall, it depresses it; and, whilst in a
horizontal position, it keeps it steady. There are few who have not
observed a pigeon or a crow preserve, for some time, a horizontal flight
without any apparent motion of the wings. This is accomplished by the
bird having already acquired sufficient velocity, and its wings being
parallel to the horizon, meeting with but small resistance from the
atmosphere. If it begins to fall, it can easily steer itself upward by
means of its tail, till the motion it had acquired is nearly spent, when
it must be renewed by a few more strokes of the wings. On alighting, a
bird expands its wings and tail fully against the air, as a ship, in
tacking round, backs her sails, in order that they may meet with all the
resistance possible.

919. IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE EYES of birds, there is a peculiarity
necessary to their condition. As they pass a great portion of their
lives among thickets and hedges, they are provided for the defence of
their eyes from external injuries, as well as from the effects of the
light, when flying in opposition to the rays of the sun, with a
nictating or winking membrane, which can, at pleasure, be drawn over the
whole eye like a curtain. This covering is neither opaque nor wholly
pellucid, but is somewhat transparent; and it is by its means that the
eagle is said to be able to gaze at the sun. "In birds," says a writer
on this subject, "we find that the sight is much more piercing,
extensive, and exact, than in the other orders of animals. The eye is
much larger in proportion to the bulk of the head, than in any of these.
This is a superiority conferred upon them not without a corresponding
utility: it seems even indispensable to their safety and subsistence.
Were this organ in birds dull, or in the least degree opaque, they would
be in danger, from the rapidity of their motion, of striking against
various objects in their flight. In this case their celerity, instead of
being an advantage, would become an evil, and their flight be restrained
by the danger resulting from it. Indeed we may consider the velocity
with which an animal moves, as a sure indication of the perfection of
its vision. Among the quadrupeds, the sloth has its sight greatly
limited; whilst the hawk, as it hovers in the air, can espy a lark
sitting on a clod, perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a man
or a dog could perceive it."

920. AMONGST THE MANY PECULIARITIES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BIRDS, not
the least is the mode by which their respiration is accomplished. This
is effected by means of air-vessels, which extend throughout the body,
and adhere to the under-surface of the bones. These, by their motion,
force the air through the true lungs, which are very small, and placed
in the uppermost part of the chest, and closely braced down to the back
and ribs. The lungs, which are never expanded by air, are destined to
the sole purpose of oxidizing the blood. In the experiments made by Mr.
John Hunter, to discover the use of this general diffusion of air
through the bodies of birds, he found that it prevents their respiration
from being stopped or interrupted by the rapidity of their motion
through a resisting medium. It is well known that, in proportion to
celerity of motion, the air becomes resistive; and were it possible for
a man to move with the swiftness of a swallow, as he is not provided
with an internal construction similar to that of birds, the resistance
of the air would soon suffocate him.

921. BIRDS ARE DISTRIBUTED OVER EVERY PART OF THE GLOBE, being found in
the coldest as well as the hottest regions, although some species are
restricted to particular countries, whilst others are widely dispersed.
At certain seasons of the year, many of them change their abodes, and
migrate to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes of
life, for a time, than those which they leave. Many of the birds of
Britain, directed by an unerring instinct, take their departure from the
island before the commencement of winter, and proceed to the more
congenial warmth of Africa, to return with the next spring. The causes
assigned by naturalists for this peculiarity are, either a deficiency of
food, or the want of a secure asylum for the incubation and nourishment
of their young. Their migrations are generally performed in large
companies, and, in the day, they follow a leader, which is occasionally
changed. During the night, many of the tribes send forth a continual
cry, to keep themselves together; although one would think that the
noise which must accompany their flight would be sufficient for that
purpose. The flight of birds across the Mediterranean was noticed three
thousand years ago, as we find it said in the book of Numbers, in the
Scriptures, that "There went forth a wind from the Lord, and brought
quails from the sea, and let them fall upon the camp, and a day's
journey round about it, to the height of two cubits above the earth."

922. IF THE BEAUTY OF BIRDS were not a recommendation to their being
universally admired, their general liveliness, gaiety, and song would
endear them to mankind. It appears, however, from accurate observations
founded upon experiment, that the notes peculiar to different kinds of
birds are altogether acquired, and that they are not innate, any more
than language is to man. The attempt of a nestling bird to sing has been
compared to the endeavour of a child to talk. The first attempts do not
seem to possess the slightest rudiments of the future song; but, as the
bird grows older and becomes stronger, it is easily perceived to be
aiming at acquiring the art of giving utterance to song. Whilst the
scholar is thus endeavouring to form his notes, when he is once sure of
a passage, he usually raises his tone, but drops it again when he finds
himself unequal to the voluntary task he has undertaken. "Many
well-authenticated facts," says an ingenious writer, "seem decisively to
prove that birds have no innate notes, but that, like mankind, the
language of those to whose care they have been committed at their birth,
will be their language in after-life." It would appear, however,
somewhat unaccountable why, in a wild state, they adhere so steadily to
the song of their own species only, when the notes of so many others are
to be heard around them. This is said to arise from the attention paid
by the nestling bird to the instructions of its own parent only,
generally disregarding the notes of all the rest. Persons; however, who
have an accurate ear, and who have given their attention to the songs of
birds, can frequently distinguish some which have their notes mixed with
those of another species; but this is in general so trifling, that it
can hardly be considered as more than the mere varieties of provincial
dialects.

923. IN REFERENCE TO THE FOOD OF BIRDS, we find that it varies, as it
does in quadrupeds, according to the species. Some are altogether
carnivorous; others, as so many of the web-footed tribes, subsist on
fish; others, again, on insects and worms; and others on grain and
fruit. The extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the granivorous
tribes, in comminuting their food so as to prepare it for digestion,
would, were they not supported by incontrovertible facts founded on
experiment, appear to exceed all credibility. Tin tubes, full of grain,
have been forced into the stomachs of turkeys, and in twenty-four hours
have been found broken, compressed, and distorted into every shape.
Twelve small lancets, very sharp both at the point and edges, have been
fixed in a ball of lead, covered with a case of paper, and given to a
turkey-cock, and left in its stomach for eight hours. After that time
the stomach was opened, when nothing appeared except the naked ball. The
twelve lancets were broken to pieces, whilst the stomach remained
perfectly sound and entire. From these facts, it is concluded that the
stones, so frequently found in the stomachs of the feathered tribes, are
highly useful in assisting the gastric juices to grind down the grain
and other hard substances which constitute their food. The stones,
themselves, being also ground down and separated by the powerful action
of the gizzard, are mixed with the food, and, no doubt, contribute very
greatly to the health, as well as to the nourishment of the animals.

924. ALL BIRDS BEING OVIPAROUS, the eggs which they produce after the
process of incubation, or sitting for a certain length of time, are, in
the various species, different both in figure and colour, as well as in
point of number. They contain the elements of the future young, for the
perfecting of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placed
at the large end, between the shell and the inside skin. It is supposed
that from the heat communicated by the sitting bird to this confined
air, its spring is increased beyond its natural tenor, and, at the same
time, its parts are put into motion by the gentle rarefaction. By this
means, pressure and motion are communicated to the parts of the egg,
which, in some inscrutable way, gradually promote the formation and
growth of the young, till the time comes for its escaping from the
shell. To preserve an egg perfectly fresh, and even fit for incubation,
for 5 or 6 months after it has been laid, Réaumur, the French
naturalist, has shown that it is only necessary to stop up its pores
with a slight coating of varnish or mutton-suet.

925. BIRDS HOWEVER, DO NOT LAY EGGS before they have some place to put
them; accordingly, they construct nests for themselves with astonishing
art. As builders, they exhibit a degree of architectural skill,
niceness, and propriety, that would seem even to mock the imitative
talents of man, however greatly these are marked by his own high
intelligence and ingenuity.

                          "Each circumstance
  Most artfully contrived to favour warmth.
  Here read the reason of the vaulted roof;
  How Providence compensates, ever kind,
  The enormous disproportion that subsists
  Between the mother and the numerous brood
  Which her small bulk must quicken into life."

In building their nests, the male and female generally assist each
other, and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement bear as
great a resemblance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches;
so that it cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are in
search of it. This art of nidification is one of the most wonderful
contrivances which the wide field of Nature can show, and which, of
itself, ought to be sufficient to compel mankind to the belief, that
they and every other part of the creation, are constantly under the
protecting power of a superintending Being, whose benign dispensations
seem as exhaustless as they are unlimited.

[Illustration]




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXI.


CHICKEN CUTLETS (an Entree).

926. INGREDIENTS.--2 chickens; seasoning to taste of salt, white pepper,
and cayenne; 2 blades of pounded mace, egg and bread crumbs, clarified
butter, 1 strip of lemon-rind, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup, thickening of butter and flour, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Remove the breast and leg bones of the chickens; cut the meat
into neat pieces after having skinned it, and season the cutlets with
pepper, salt, pounded mace, and cayenne. Put the bones, trimmings, &c.,
into a stewpan with 1 pint of water, adding carrots, onions, and
lemon-peel in the above proportion; stew gently for 1-1/2 hour, and
strain the gravy. Thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and
1 egg well beaten; stir it over the fire, and bring it to the
simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil. In the mean time, egg and
bread-crumb the cutlets, and give them a few drops of clarified butter;
fry them a delicate brown, occasionally turning them; arrange them
pyramidically on the dish, and pour over them the sauce.

_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the cutlets. _Average cost_, 2s. each.

_Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

    FOWLS AS FOOD.--Brillat Savarin, pre-eminent in gastronomic
    taste, says that he believes the whole gallinaceous family was
    made to enrich our larders and furnish our tables; for, from the
    quail to the turkey, he avers their flesh is a light aliment,
    full of flavour, and fitted equally well for the invalid as for
    the man of robust health. The fine flavour, however, which
    Nature has given to all birds coming under the definition of
    poultry, man has not been satisfied with, and has used many
    means--such as keeping them in solitude and darkness, and
    forcing them to eat--to give them an unnatural state of fatness
    or fat. This fat, thus artificially produced, is doubtless
    delicious, and the taste and succulence of the boiled and
    roasted bird draw forth the praise of the guests around the
    table. Well-fattened and tender, a fowl is to the cook what the
    canvas is to the painter; for do we not see it served boiled,
    roasted, fried, fricasseed, hashed, hot, cold, whole,
    dismembered, boned, broiled, stuffed, on dishes, and in
    pies,--always handy and ever acceptable?

    THE COMMON OR DOMESTIC FOWL.--From time immemorial, the common
    or domestic fowl has been domesticated in England, and is
    supposed to be originally the offspring of some wild species
    which abound in the forests of India. It is divided into a
    variety of breeds, but the most esteemed are, the Poland or
    Black, the Dorking, the Bantam, the Game Fowl, and the Malay or
    Chittagong. The common, or barn-door fowl, is one of the most
    delicate of the varieties; and at Dorking, in Surrey, the breed
    is brought to great perfection. Till they are four months old,
    the term chicken is applied to the young female; after that age
    they are called pullets, till they begin to lay, when they are
    called hens. The English counties most productive in poultry are
    Surrey, Sussex, Norfolk, Herts, Devon, and Somerset.

FRENCH CHICKEN CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery).

927. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, fried
bread, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/2
teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel; salt, cayenne, and mace to
taste. For sauce,--1 oz. of butter, 2 minced shalots, a few slices of
carrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1 blade of
pounded mace, 6 peppercorns, 1/4 pint of gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut the fowls into as many nice cutlets as possible; take a
corresponding number of sippets about the same size, all cut one shape;
fry them a pale brown, put them before the fire, then dip the cutlets
into clarified butter mixed with the yolk of an egg, cover with bread
crumbs seasoned in the above proportion, with lemon-peel, mace, salt,
and cayenne; fry them for about 5 minutes, put each piece on one of the
sippets, pile them high in the dish, and serve with the following sauce,
which should be made ready for the cutlets. Put the butter into a
stewpan, add the shalots, carrot, herbs, mace, and peppercorns; fry for
10 minutes or rather longer; pour in 1/2 pint of good gravy, made of the
chicken bones, stew gently for 20 minutes, strain it, and serve.

_Time_.--5 minutes to fry the cutlets; 35 minutes to make the gravy.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the chicken, 9d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

    EGGS FOR HATCHING.--Eggs intended for hatching should be removed
    as soon as laid, and placed in bran in a dry, cool place. Choose
    those that are near of a size; and, as a rule, avoid those that
    are equally thick at both ends,--such, probably, contain a
    double yolk, and will come to no good. Eggs intended for
    hatching should never be stored longer than a month, as much
    less the better. Nine eggs may be placed under a Bantam hen, and
    as many as fifteen under a Dorking. The odd number is considered
    preferable, as more easily packed. It will be as well to mark
    the eggs you give the hen to sit on, so that you may know if she
    lays any more: if she does, you must remove them; for, if
    hatched at all, they would be too late for the brood. If during
    incubation an egg should be broken, remove it, and take out the
    remainder, and cleanse them in luke-warm water, or it is
    probable the sticky nature of the contents of the broken egg
    will make the others cling to the hen's feathers; and they, too,
    may be fractured.

    HENS SITTING.--Some hens are very capricious as regards sitting;
    they will make a great fuss, and keep pining for the nest, and,
    when they are permitted to take to it, they will sit just long
    enough to addle the eggs, and then they're off again. The safest
    way to guard against such annoyance, is to supply the hen with
    some hard-boiled eggs; if she sits on them a reasonable time,
    and seems steadily inclined, like a good matron, you may then
    give her proper eggs, and let her set about the business in
    earnest.

CHICKEN OR FOWL PATTIES.

928. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast chicken or fowl; to every
1/4 lb. of meat allow 2 oz. of ham, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2
tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel;
cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1
oz. of butter rolled in flour; puff paste.

_Mode_.--Mince very small the white meat from a cold roast fowl, after
removing all the skin; weigh it, and to every 1/4 lb. of meat allow the
above proportion of minced ham. Put these into a stewpan with the
remaining ingredients, stir over the fire for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour,
taking care that the mixture does not burn. Roll out some puff paste
about 1/4 inch in thickness; line the patty-pans with this, put upon
each a small piece of bread, and cover with another layer of paste;
brush over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a brisk oven for about
1/4 hour. When done, cut a round piece out of the top, and, with a small
spoon, take out the bread (be particular in not breaking the outside
border of the crust), and fill the patties with the mixture.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to prepare the meat; not quite 1/4 hour to bake the
crust.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    HATCHING.--Sometimes the chick within the shell is unable to
    break away from its prison; for the white of the egg will
    occasionally harden in the air to the consistence of joiners'
    clue, when the poor chick is in a terrible fix. An able writer
    says, "Assistance in hatching must not be rendered prematurely,
    and thence unnecessarily, but only in the case of the chick
    being plainly unable to release itself; then, indeed, an
    addition may probably be made to the brood, as great numbers are
    always lost in this way. The chick makes a circular fracture at
    the big end of the egg, and a section of about one-third of the
    length of the shell being separated, delivers the prisoner,
    provided there is no obstruction from adhesion of the body to
    the membrane which lines the shell. Between the body of the
    chick and the membrane of the shell there exists a viscous
    fluid, the white of the egg thickened with the intense heat of
    incubation, until it becomes a positive glue. When this happens,
    the feathers stick fast to the shell, and the chicks remain
    confined, and must perish, if not released."

    The method of assistance to be rendered to chicks which have a
    difficulty in releasing themselves from the shell, is to take
    the egg in the hand, and dipping the finger or a piece of linen
    rag in warm water, to apply it to the fastened parts until they
    are loosened by the gluey substance becoming dissolved and
    separated from the feathers. The chick, then, being returned to
    the nest, will extricate itself,--a mode generally to be
    observed, since, if violence were used, it would prove fatal.
    Nevertheless, breaking the shell may sometimes be necessary; and
    separating with the fingers, as gently as may be, the membrane
    from the feathers, which are still to be moistened as mentioned
    above, to facilitate the operation. The points of small scissors
    may be useful, and when there is much resistance, as also
    apparent pain to the bird, the process must be conducted in the
    gentlest manner, and the shell separated into a number of small
    pieces. The signs of a need of assistance are the egg being
    partly pecked and chipped, and the cluck discontinuing its
    efforts for five of six hours. Weakness from cold may disable
    the chicken from commencing the operation of pecking the shell,
    which must then be artificially performed with a circular
    fracture, such as is made by the bird itself.

CHICKEN OR FOWL PIE.

929. INGREDIENTS.--2 small fowls or 1 large one, white pepper and salt
to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded
mace, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of ham, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2
pint of water, puff crust.

_Mode_.--Skin and cut up the fowls into joints, and put the neck, leg,
and backbones in a stewpan, with a little water, an onion, a bunch of
savoury herbs, and a blade of mace; let these stew for about an hour,
and, when done, strain off the liquor: this is for gravy. Put a layer of
fowl at the bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of ham, then one of
forcemeat and hard-boiled eggs cut in rings; between the layers put a
seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Proceed in this
manner until the dish is full, and pour in about 1/2 pint of water;
border the edge of the dish with puff crust, put on the cover, ornament
the top, and glaze it by brushing over it the yolk of an egg. Bake from
1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour, should the pie be very large, and, when done, pour
in, at the top, the gravy made from the bones. If to be eaten cold, and
wished particularly nice, the joints of the fowls should be boned, and
placed in the dish with alternate layers of forcemeat; sausage-meat may
also be substituted for the forcemeat, and is now very much used. When
the chickens are boned, and mixed with sausage-meat, the pie will take
about 2 hours to bake. It should be covered with a piece of paper when
about half-done, to prevent the paste from being dried up or scorched.

_Time_.--For a pie with unboned meat, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour; with boned
meat and sausage or forcemeat, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Average cost_, with 2 fowls, 6s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE YOUNG CHICKS.--The chicks that are hatched first should be
    taken from underneath the hen, lest she might think her task at
    an end, and leave the remaining eggs to spoil. As soon as the
    young birds are taken from the mother, they must be placed in a
    basket lined with soft wool, flannel, or hay, and stood in the
    sunlight if it be summer time, or by the fire if the weather be
    cold. It is a common practice to cram young chicks with food as
    soon as they are born. This is quite unnecessary. They will, so
    long as they are kept warm, come to no harm if they take no food
    for twenty-four hours following their birth. Should the whole of
    the brood not be hatched by that time, those that are born may
    be fed with bread soaked in milk, and the yolk of a hard-boiled
    egg.

POTTED CHICKEN OR FOWL (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish).

930. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast chicken; to every lb. of
meat allow 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1
teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/4 small nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Strip the meat from the bones of cold roast fowl; when it is
freed from gristle and skin, weigh it, and, to every lb. of meat, allow
the above proportion of butter, seasoning, and spices. Cut the meat
into small pieces, pound it well with the fresh butter, sprinkle in the
spices gradually, and keep pounding until reduced to a perfectly smooth
paste. Put it into potting-pots for use, and cover it with clarified
butter, about 1/4 inch in thickness, and, if to be kept for some time,
tie over a bladder: 2 or 3 slices of ham, minced and pounded with the
above ingredients, will be found an improvement. It should be kept in a
dry place.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    FEEDING AND COOPING THE CHICKS.--When all the chicks are
    hatched, they should be placed along with the mother under a
    coop in a warm dry spot. If two hens happen to have their broods
    at the same time, their respective chicks should be carefully
    kept separate; as, if they get mixed, and so go under the wrong
    coop, the hens will probably maim and destroy those who have
    mistaken their dwelling. After being kept snug beneath the coop
    for a week (the coop should be placed under cover at nightfall),
    the chicks may be turned loose for an hour or so in the warmest
    part of the day. They should be gradually weaned from the soaked
    bread and chopped egg, instead of which grits or boiled barley
    should be given; in 8 or 10 days their stomachs will be strong
    enough to receive bruised barley, and at the end of 3 weeks, if
    your chicks be healthy, they will be able to take care of
    themselves. It will be well, however, to keep your eye on them a
    week or so longer, as the elder chickens may drive them from
    their food. Great care should be taken that the very young
    chicks do not run about the wet ground or on damp grass, as this
    is the most prominent and fatal cause of disease. While under
    the coop with their mother, a shallow pan or plate of water
    should be supplied to the chicks, as in a deeper vessel they are
    liable to drench themselves and take cold, or possibly to get
    drowned.

CHICKEN OR FOWL SALAD.

931. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled chicken, 2
lettuces, a little endive, 1 cucumber, a few slices of boiled beetroot,
salad-dressing No. 506.

_Mode_.--Trim neatly the remains of the chicken; wash, dry, and slice
the lettuces, and place in the middle of a dish; put the pieces of fowl
on the top, and pour the salad-dressing over them. Garnish the edge of
the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings, sliced cucumber, and
boiled beetroot cut in slices. Instead of cutting the eggs in rings, the
yolks may be rubbed through a hair sieve, and the whites chopped very
finely, and arranged on the salad in small bunches, yellow and white
alternately. This should not be made long before it is wanted for table.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    AGE AND FLAVOUR OF CHICKENS.--It has been the opinion of the
    medical faculty of all ages and all countries, that the flesh of
    the young chicken is the must delicate and easy to digest of all
    animal food. It is less alkalescent than the flesh of any other
    animal, and its entire freedom from any irritating quality
    renders it a fit dish for the ailing, or those whose stomachs
    are naturally weak. In no animal, however, does age work such a
    change, in regard to the quality of its flesh, as it does in
    domestic fowls. In their infancy, cocks and hens are equally
    tender and toothsome; but as time overtakes them it is the cock
    whose flesh toughens first. A year-old cock, indeed, is fit for
    little else than to be converted into soup, while a hen at the
    same age, although sufficiently substantial, is not callous to
    the insinuations of a carving-knife. As regards capons, however,
    the rule respecting age does not hold good. There is scarcely to
    be found a more delicious animal than a well-fed, well-dressed
    capon. Age does not dry up his juices; indeed, like wine, he
    seems but to mellow. At three years old, even, he is as tender
    as a chick, with the additional advantage of his proper chicken
    flavour being fully developed. The above remarks, however,
    concerning the capon, only apply to such as are _naturally_ fed,
    and not crammed. The latter process may produce a
    handsome-looking bird, and it may weigh enough to satisfy the
    whim or avarice of its stuffer; but, when before the fire, it
    will reveal the cruel treatment to which it has been subjected,
    and will weep a drippingpan-ful of fat tears. You will never
    find heart enough to place such a grief-worn guest at the head
    of your table. It should be borne in mind as a rule, that
    small-boned and short-legged poultry are likely to excel the
    contrary sort in delicacy of colour, flavour, and fineness of
    flesh.

HASHED DUCK (Cold Meat Cookery).

932. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast duck, rather more than 1
pint of weak stock or water, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening of
butter and flour, salt and cayenne to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced
lemon-peel, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 glass of port wine.

_Mode_.--Cut the duck into nice joints, and put the trimmings into a
stewpan; slice and fry the onion in a little butter; add these to the
trimmings, pour in the above proportion of weak stock or water, and stew
gently for 1 hour. Strain the liquor, thicken it with butter and flour,
season with salt and cayenne, and add the remaining ingredients; boil it
up and skim well; lay in the pieces of duck, and let them get thoroughly
hot through by the side of the fire, but do not allow them to boil: they
should soak in the gravy for about 1/2 hour. Garnish with sippets of
toasted bread. The hash may be made richer by using a stronger and more
highly-flavoured gravy; a little spice or pounded mace may also be
added, when their flavour is liked.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 4d.

_Seasonable_ from November to February; ducklings from May to August.

    THE DUCK.--This bird belongs to the order of _Natatores_, or
    Swimmers; the most familiar tribes of which are ducks, swans,
    geese, auks, penguins, petrels, pelicans, guillemots, gulls, and
    terns. They mostly live in the water, feeding on fish, worms,
    and aquatic plants. They are generally polygamous, and make
    their nests among reeds, or in moist places. The flesh of many
    of the species is eatable, but that of some is extremely rank
    and oily. The duck is a native of Britain, but is found on the
    margins of most of the European lakes. It is excessively greedy,
    and by no means a nice feeder. It requires a mixture of
    vegetable and animal food; but aquatic insects, corn, and
    vegetables, are its proper food. Its flesh, however, is savoury,
    being not so gross as that of the goose, and of easier
    digestion. In the green-pea season it is usually found on an
    English table; but, according to Ude, "November is its proper
    season, when it is plump and fat."

TO RAGOUT A DUCK WHOLE.

933. INGREDIENTS.--1 large duck, pepper and salt to taste, good beef
gravy, 2 onions sliced, 4 sage-leaves, a few leaves of lemon thyme,
thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--After having emptied and singed the duck, season it inside with
pepper and salt, and truss it. Roast it before a clear fire for about 20
minutes, and let it acquire a nice brown colour. Put it into a stewpan
with sufficient well-seasoned beef gravy to cover it; slice and fry the
onions, and add these, with the sage-leaves and lemon thyme, both of
which should be finely minced, to the stock. Simmer gently until the
duck is tender; strain, skim, and thicken the gravy with a little butter
and flour; boil it up, pour over the duck, and serve. When in season,
about, 1-1/2 pint of young green peas, boiled separately, and put in the
ragoût, very much improve this dish.

_Time_.--20 minutes to roast the duck; 20 minutes to stew it.

_Average cost_, from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to February; ducklings from April to August.

[Illustration: BUENOS AYRES DUCKS.]

    THE BUENOS AYRES DUCK.--The Buenos Ayres duck is of East-Indian
    birth, and is chiefly valuable as an ornament; for we suppose
    one would as soon think of picking a Chinese teal for luncheon,
    or a gold fish for breakfast, as to consign the handsome Buenos
    Ayres to the spit. The prevailing colour of this bird is black,
    with a metallic lustre, and a gleaming of blue steel about its
    breast and wings.

    VARIETIES OF DUCKS.--Naturalists count nearly a hundred
    different species of ducks; and there is no doubt that the
    intending keeper of these harmless and profitable birds may
    easily take his choice from amongst twenty different sorts.
    There is, however, so little difference in the various members
    of the family, either as regards hardiness, laying, or hatching,
    that the most incompetent fancier or breeder may indulge his
    taste without danger of making a bad bargain. In connection with
    their value for table, light-coloured ducks are always of milder
    flavour than those that are dark-coloured, the white Aylesbury's
    being general favourites. Ducks reared exclusively on vegetable
    diet will have a whiter and more delicate flesh than those
    allowed to feed on animal offal; while the flesh of birds
    fattened on the latter food, will be firmer than that of those
    which have only partaken of food of a vegetable nature.

ROAST DUCKS.

934. INGREDIENTS.--A couple of ducks; sage-and-onion stuffing No. 504; a
little flour.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose ducks with plump bellies, and with
thick and yellowish feet. They should be trussed with the feet on, which
should be scalded, and the skin peeled off, and then turned up close to
the legs. Run a skewer through the middle of each leg, after having
drawn them as close as possible to the body, to plump up the breast,
passing the same quite through the body. Cut off the heads and necks,
and the pinions at the first joint; bring these close to the sides,
twist the feet round, and truss them at the back of the bird. After the
duck is stuffed, both ends should be secured with string, so as to keep
in the seasoning.

[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.]

_Mode_.--To insure ducks being tender, never dress them the same day
they are killed; and if the weather permits, they should hang a day or
two. Make a stuffing of sage and onion sufficient for one duck, and
leave the other unseasoned, as the flavour is not liked by everybody.
Put them down to a brisk clear fire, and keep them well basted the whole
of the time they are cooking. A few minutes before serving, dredge them
lightly with flour, to make them froth and look plump; and when the
steam draws towards the fire, send them to table hot and quickly, with a
good brown gravy poured _round_, but not _over_ the ducks, and a little
of the same in a tureen. When in season, green peas should invariably
accompany this dish.

_Time_.--Full-grown ducks from 3/4 to 1 hour; ducklings from 25 to 35
minutes.

_Average cost_, from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_.--A. couple of ducks for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Ducklings from April to August; ducks from November to
February.

_Note_.--Ducklings are trussed and roasted in the same manner, and
served with the same sauces and accompaniments. When in season, serve
apple sauce.

[Illustration: ROUEN DUCKS.]

    THE ROUEN DUCK.--The Rouen, or Rhone duck, is a large and
    handsome variety, of French extraction. The plumage of the Rouen
    duck is somewhat sombre; its flesh is also much darker, and,
    though of higher flavour, not near so delicate as that of our
    own Aylesbury. It is with this latter breed that the Rouen duck
    is generally mated; and the result is said to be increase of
    size and strength. In Normandy and Brittany these ducks, as well
    as other sorts, greatly abound; and the "duck-liver _pâtés_" are
    there almost as popular as the _pâté de foie gras_ of Strasburg.
    In order to bring the livers of the wretched duck to the
    fashionable and unnatural size, the same diabolical cruelty is
    resorted to as in the case of the Strasburg goose. The poor
    birds are _nailed_ by the feet to a board placed close to a
    fire, and, in that position, plentifully supplied with food and
    water. In a few days, the carcase is reduced to a mere shadow,
    while the liver has grown monstrously. We would rather abstain
    from the acquaintance of a man who ate _pâté de foie gras_,
    knowing its component parts.

    DUCK'S EGGS.--The ancient notion that ducks whose beaks have a
    tendency to curve upwards, are better layers than those whose
    beaks do not thus point, is, we need hardly say, simply absurd:
    all ducks are good layers, if they are carefully fed and tended.
    Ducks generally lay at night, or early in the morning. While
    they are in perfect health, they will do this; and one of the
    surest signs of indisposition, among birds of this class, is
    irregularity in laying. The eggs laid will approach nearly the
    colour of the layer,--light-coloured ducks laying white eggs,
    and brown ducks greenish-blue eggs; dark-coloured birds laying
    the largest eggs. One time of day the notion was prevalent that
    a duck would hatch no other eggs than her own; and although this
    is not true, it will be, nevertheless, as well to match the
    duck's own eggs as closely as possible; for we have known
    instances wherein the duck has turned out of the nest and
    destroyed eggs differing from her own in size and colour.

    DUCKS.--The Mallard, or Wild Duck, from which is derived the
    domestic species, is prevalent throughout Europe, Asia, and
    America. The mallard's most remarkable characteristic is one
    which sets at defiance the speculations of the most profound
    ornithologist. The female bird is extremely plain, but the
    male's plumage is a splendour of greens and browns, and browns
    and blues. In the spring, however, the plumage of the male
    begins to fade, and in two months, every vestige of his finery
    has departed, and he is not to be distinguished from his
    soberly-garbed wife. Then the greens, and the blues, and the
    browns begin to bud out again, and by October he is once more a
    gorgeous drake. It is to be regretted that domestication has
    seriously deteriorated the moral character of the duck. In a
    wild state, he is a faithful husband, desiring but one wife, and
    devoting himself to her; but no sooner is he domesticated than
    he becomes polygamous, and makes nothing of owning ten or a
    dozen wives at a time. As regards the females, they are much
    more solicitous for the welfare of their progeny in a wild state
    than a tame. Should a tame duck's duckling get into mortal
    trouble, its mother will just signify her sorrow by an extra
    "quack," or so, and a flapping of her wings; but touch a wild
    duck's little one if you dare! she will buffet you with her
    broad wings, and dash boldly at your face with her stout beak.
    If you search for her nest amongst the long grass, she will try
    no end of manoeuvres to lure you from it, her favourite _ruse_
    being to pretend lameness, to delude you into the notion that
    you have only to pursue _her_ vigorously, and her capture is
    certain; so you persevere for half a mile or so, and then she is
    up and away, leaving you to find your way back to the nest if
    you can. Among the ancients, opinion was at variance respecting
    the wholesomeness and digestibility of goose flesh, but
    concerning the excellence of the duck all parties were agreed;
    indeed, they not only assigned to duck-meat the palm for
    exquisite flavour and delicacy, they even attributed to it
    medicinal powers of the highest order. Not only the Roman
    medical writers of the time make mention of it, but likewise the
    philosophers of the period. Plutarch assures us that Cato
    preserved his whole household in health, in a season when plague
    and disease were rife, through dieting them on roast duck.

STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery).

935. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast duck, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or
4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 2 pints of thin
gravy, 1, or a small bunch of green onions, 3 sprigs of parsley, 3
cloves, 1 pint of young green peas, cayenne and salt to taste, 1
teaspoonful of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan; cut up the duck into joints, lay
them in with the slices of lean ham or bacon; make it brown, then dredge
in a tablespoonful of flour, and stir this well in before adding the
gravy. Put in the onion, parsley, cloves, and gravy, and when it has
simmered for 1/4 hour, add a pint of young green peas, and stew gently
for about 1/2 hour. Season with cayenne, salt, and sugar; take out the
duck, place it round the dish, and the peas in the middle.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 1s.

_Seasonable_ from June to August.

    DUCKS HATCHING.--Concerning incubation by ducks, a practised
    writer says, "The duck requires a secret and safe place, rather
    than any attendance, and will, at nature's call, cover her eggs
    and seek her food. On hatching, there is not often a necessity
    for taking away any of the brood; and, having hatched, let the
    mother retain her young ones upon the nest her own time. On her
    moving with her brood, let a coop be prepared upon the short
    grass, if the weather be fine, and under shelter, if otherwise."

    COOPING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS.--Brood ducks should be cooped at
    some distance from any other. A wide and flat dish of water, to
    be often renewed, should stand just outside the coop, and
    barley, or any other meal, be the first food of the ducklings.
    It will be needful, if it be wet weather, to clip their tails,
    lest these draggle, and so weaken the bird. The period of the
    duck's confinement to the coop will depend on the weather, and
    on the strength of the ducklings. A fortnight is usually the
    extent of time necessary, and they may even be sometimes
    permitted to enjoy the luxury of a swim at the end of a week.
    They should not, however, be allowed to stay too long in the
    water at first; for they will then become ill, their feathers
    get rough, and looseness of the bowels ensue. In the latter
    case, let them be closely cooped for a few days, and bean-meal
    or oatmeal be mixed with their ordinary food.

[Illustration: AYLESBURY DUCKS.]

    THE AYLESBURY DUCK.--The white Aylesbury duck is, and
    deservedly, a universal favourite. Its snowy plumage and
    comfortable comportment make it a credit to the poultry-yard,
    while its broad and deep breast, and its ample back, convey the
    assurance that your satisfaction will not cease at its death. In
    parts of Buckinghamshire, this member of the duck family is bred
    on an extensive scale; not on plains and commons, however, as
    might be naturally imagined, but in the abodes of the cottagers.
    Round the walls of the living-rooms, and of the bedroom even,
    are fixed rows of wooden boxes, lined with hay; and it is the
    business of the wife and children to nurse and comfort the
    feathered lodgers, to feed the little ducklings, and to take the
    old ones out for an airing. Sometimes the "stock" ducks are the
    cottager's own property, but it more frequently happens that
    they are intrusted to his care by a wholesale breeder, who pays
    him so much _per_ score for all ducklings properly raised. To be
    perfect, the Aylesbury duck should be plump, pure white, with
    yellow feet, and a flesh-coloured beak.

STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery).

936. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of good
gravy, cayenne and salt to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel,
1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 oz, of butter rolled in flour, 1-1/2
pint of green peas.

_Mode_.--Cut up the duck into joints, lay it in the gravy, and add a
seasoning of cayenne, salt, and minced lemon-peel; let tins gradually
warm through, but not boil. Throw the peas into boiling water slightly
salted, and boil them rapidly until tender. Drain them, stir in the
pounded sugar, and the butter rolled in flour; shake them over the fire
for two or three minutes, and serve in the centre of the dish, with the
duck laid round.

_Time_.--15 minutes to boil the peas, when they are full grown.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 10d.

_Seasonable_ from June to August.

    FATTENING DUCKS.--Many duck-keepers give their birds nothing in
    the shape of food, letting them wander about and pick up a
    living for themselves; and they will seem to get fat even upon
    this precarious feeding. Unless, however, ducks are supplied
    with, besides chance food, a liberal feed of solid corn, or
    grain, morning and evening, their flesh will become flabby and
    insipid. The simple way to fatten ducks is to let them have as
    much, substantial food as they will eat, bruised oats and
    pea-meal being the standard fattening food for them. No cramming
    is required, as with the turkey and some other poultry: they
    will cram themselves to the very verge of suffocation. At the
    same time, plenty of exercise and clean water should be at their
    service.

    AMERICAN MODE OF CAPTURING DUCKS.--On the American rivers, the
    modes of capture are various. Sometimes half a dozen artificial
    birds are fastened to a little raft, and which is so weighted
    that the sham birds squat naturally on the water. This is quite
    sufficient to attract the notice of a passing flock, who descend
    to cultivate the acquaintance of the isolated few when the
    concealed hunter, with his fowling-piece, scatters a deadly
    leaden shower amongst them. In the winter, when the water is
    covered with rubble ice, the fowler of the Delaware paints his
    canoe entirely white, lies flat in the bottom of it, and floats
    with the broken ice; from which the aquatic inhabitants fail to
    distinguish it. So floats the canoe till he within it
    understands, by the quacking, and fluttering, and whirring of
    wings, that he is in the midst of a flock, when he is up in a
    moment with the murderous piece, and dying quacks and
    lamentations rend the still air.

[Illustration: BOW-BILL DUCKS.]

    Bow-BILL DUCKS, &c.--Every one knows how awkward are the
    _Anatidae_, waddling along on their unelastic webbed toes, and
    their short legs, which, being placed considerably backward,
    make the fore part of the body preponderate. Some, however, are
    formed more adapted to terrestrial habits than others, and
    notably amongst these may be named _Dendronessa sponsa_, the
    summer duck of America. This beautiful bird rears her young in
    the holes of trees, generally overhanging the water. When strong
    enough, the young scramble to the mouth of the hole, launch into
    the air with their little wings and feet spread out, and drop
    into their favourite element. Whenever their birthplace is at
    some distance from the water, the mother carries them to it, one
    by one, in her bill, holding them so as not to injure their yet
    tender frame. On several occasions, however, when the hole was
    30, 40, or more yards from a piece of water, Audubon observed
    that the mother suffered the young to fall on the grass and
    dried leaves beneath the tree, and afterwards led them directly
    to the nearest edge of the next pool or creek. There are some
    curious varieties of the domestic duck, which only appear
    interesting from their singularity, for there does not seem to
    be anything of use or value in the unusual characteristics which
    distinguish them; thus, the bow-bill duck, as shown in the
    engraving, called by some writers the hook-bill, is remarkable
    for the peculiarly strange distortion of its beak, and the tuft
    on the top of its head. The penguin duck, again, waddles in an
    upright position, like the penguin, on account of the unnatural
    situation of its legs. These odd peculiarities add nothing of
    value to the various breeds, and may be set down as only the
    result of accidental malformation, transmitted from generation
    to generation.

STEWED DUCK AND TURNIPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

937. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of good
gravy, 4 shalots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of savoury
herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 lb. of turnips, weighed after being
peeled, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut up the duck into joints, fry the shalots, carrots, and
herbs, and put them, with the duck, into the gravy; add the pounded
mace, and stew gently for 20 minutes or 1/2 hour. Cut about 1 lb. of
turnips, weighed after being peeled, into 1/2-inch squares, put the
butter into a stewpan, and stew them till quite tender, which will be in
about 1/2 hour, or rather more; season with pepper and salt, and serve
in the centre of the dish, with the duck, &c. laid round.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour to stew the turnips.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 1s.

_Seasonable_ from November to February.

    THE WILD DUCK.--In many parts of England the wild duck is to be
    found, especially in those desolate fenny parts where water
    abounds. In Lincolnshire they are plentiful, and are annually
    taken in the decoys, which consist of ponds situate in the
    marshes, and surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the birds
    which frequent them from, being disturbed. In these the birds
    sleep during the day; and as soon as evening sets in, the _decoy
    rises_, and the wild fowl feed during the night. Now is the time
    for the decoy ducks to entrap the others. From the ponds
    diverge, in different directions, certain canals, at the end of
    which funnel nets are placed; along these the _decoy ducks_,
    trained for the purpose, lead the others in search of food.
    After they have got a certain length, a decoy-man appears, and
    drives them further on, until they are finally taken in the
    nets. It is from these decoys, in Lincolnshire, that the London
    market is mostly supplied. The Chinese have a singular mode of
    catching these ducks. A person wades in the water up to the
    chin, and, having his head covered with an empty calabash,
    approaches the place where the ducks are. As the birds have no
    suspicion of the nature of the object which is concealed under
    the calabash, they suffer its approach, and allow it to move at
    will among their flock. The man, accordingly, walks about in the
    midst of his game, and, whenever he pleases, pulls them by the
    legs under the water, and fixes them to his belt, until he has
    secured as many as he requires, and then moves off as he went
    amongst them, without exciting the slightest suspicion of the
    trick he has been playing them. This singular mode of
    duck-hunting is also practised on the Ganges, the earthen
    vessels of the Hindoos being used instead of calabashes. These
    vessels, being those in which the inhabitants boil their rice,
    are considered, after once being used, as defiled, and are
    accordingly thrown into the river. The duck-takers, finding them
    suitable for their purpose, put them on their heads; and as the
    ducks, from seeing them constantly floating down the stream, are
    familiar with their appearance, they regard them as objects from
    which no danger is to be expected.

[Illustration: CALL-DUCKS.]

    DUCK-SNARES IN THE LINCOLNSHIRE FENS.--The following interesting
    account of how duck-snaring used to be managed in the
    Lincolnshire fens, was published some years ago, in a work
    entitled the "Feathered Tribes."--"In the lakes to which they
    resorted, their favourite haunts were observed, and in the most
    sequestered part of a haunt, a pipe or ditch was cut across the
    entrance, decreasing gradually in width from the entrance to the
    further end, which was not more than two feet wide. The ditch
    was of a circular form, but did not bend much for the first ten
    yards. The banks of the lake on each side of the ditch were kept
    clear of weeds and close herbage, in order that the ducks might
    get on them to sit and dress themselves. Along the ditch, poles
    were driven into the ground close to the edge on each side, and
    the tops were bent over across the ditch and tied together. The
    poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch, and formed
    an arch, the top of which was tea feet distant from the surface
    of the water; the arch was made to decrease in height as the
    ditch decreased in width, so that the remote end was not more
    than eighteen inches in height. The poles were placed about six
    feet from each other, and connected by poles laid lengthwise
    across the arch, and tied together. Over the whole was thrown a
    net, which was made fast to a reed fence at the entrance and
    nine or ten yards up the ditch, and afterwards strongly pegged
    to the ground. At the end of the ditch furthest from the
    entrance, was fixed what was called a tunnel-net, of about four
    yards in length, of a round form, and kept open by a number of
    hoops about eighteen inches in diameter, placed at a small
    distance from each other to keep it distended. Supposing the
    circular bend of the ditch to be to the right, when one stands
    with his back to the lake, then on the left-hand side, a number
    of reed fences were constructed, called shootings, for the
    purpose of screening the decoy-man from observation, and, in
    such a manner, that the fowl in the decoy would not be alarmed
    while he was driving those that were in the pipe. These
    shootings, which were ten in number, were about four yards in
    length and about six feet high. From the end of the last
    shooting a person could not see the lake, owing to the bend of
    the ditch; and there was then no further occasion for shelter.
    Were it not for these shootings, the fowl that remained about
    the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed, if the person
    driving the fowl already under the net should have been exposed,
    and would have become so shy as entirely to forsake the place."

    THE DECOY MAN, DOG, AND DUCKS.--"The first thing the decoy-man
    did, on approaching the ditch, was to take a piece of lighted
    peat or turf, and to hold it near his mouth, to prevent the
    birds from smelling him. He was attended by a dog trained to
    render him assistance. He walked very silently about halfway up
    the shootings, where a small piece of wood was thrust through
    the reed fence, which made an aperture just large enough to
    enable him to see if there were any fowl within; if not, he
    walked to see if any were about the entrance to the ditch. If
    there were, he stopped, made a motion to his dog, and gave him a
    piece of cheese to eat, when the dog went directly to a hole
    through the reed fence, and the birds immediately flew off the
    back into the water. The dog returned along the bank between the
    reed fences, and came out to his master at another hole. The man
    then gave the dog something more to encourage him, and the dog
    repeated his rounds, till the birds were attracted by his
    motions, and followed him into the mouth of the ditch--an
    operation which was called 'working them.' The man now retreated
    further back, working the dog at different holes, until the
    ducks were sufficiently under the net. He then commanded his dog
    to lie down under the fence, and going himself forward to the
    end of the ditch next the lake, he took off his hat, and gave it
    a wave between the shootings. All the birds that were under the
    net could then see him, but none that were in the lake could.
    The former flew forward, and the man then ran to the next
    shooting, and waved his hat, and so on, driving them along until
    they came into the tunnel-net, into which they crept. When they
    were all in, the man gave the net a twist, so as to prevent them
    getting back. He then took the net off from the end of the
    ditch, and taking out, one by one, the ducks that were in it,
    dislocated their necks."

BOILED FOWLS OR CHICKENS.

[Illustration: BOILED FOWL.]

938. INGREDIENTS.--A pair of fowls; water.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--In choosing fowls for boiling, it should be
borne in mind that those that are not black-legged are generally much
whiter when dressed. Pick, draw, singe, wash, and truss them in the
following manner, without the livers in the wings; and, in drawing, be
careful not to break the gall-bladder:--Cut off the neck, leaving
sufficient skin to skewer back. Cut the feet off to the first joint,
tuck the stumps into a slit made on each side of the belly, twist the
wings over the back of the fowl, and secure the top of the leg and the
bottom of the wing together by running a skewer through them and the
body. The other side must be done in the same manner. Should the fowl be
very large and old, draw the sinews of the legs before tucking them in.
Make a slit in the apron of the fowl, large enough to admit the parson's
nose, and tie a string on the tops of the legs to keep them in their
proper place.

_Mode_.--When, they are firmly trussed, put them into a stewpan with
plenty of hot water; bring it to boil, and carefully remove all the scum
as it rises. _Simmer very gently_ until the fowl is tender, and bear in
mind that the slower it boils, the plumper and whiter will the fowl be.
Many cooks wrap them in a floured cloth to preserve the colour, and to
prevent the scum from clinging to them; in this case, a few slices of
lemon should be placed on the breasts; over these a sheet of buttered
paper, and then the cloth; cooking them in this manner renders the flesh
very white. Boiled ham, bacon, boiled tongue, or pickled pork, are the
usual accompaniments to boiled fowls, and they may be served with
Béchamel, white sauce, parsley and butter, oyster, lemon, liver, celery,
or mushroom sauce. A little should be poured over the fowls, after the
skewers are removed, and the remainder sent in a tureen to table.

_Time_.--Large fowl, 1 hour; moderate-sized one, 3/4 hour; chicken, from
20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. the pair.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring.

[Illustration: GAME-FOWLS.]

    THE GAME FOWL.--Respecting the period at which this well-known
    member of the _Gallus_ family became domesticated, history is
    silent. There is little doubt, however, that, like the dog, it
    has been attached to mankind ever since mankind were attached to
    civilization. Although the social position of this bird is, at
    the present time, highly respectable, it is nothing to what it
    was when Rome was mistress of the world. Writing at that period,
    Pliny says, respecting the domestic cock, "The gait of the cock
    is proud and commanding; he walks with head erect and elevated
    crest; alone, of all birds, he habitually looks up to the sky,
    raising, at the same time, his curved and scythe-formed tail,
    and inspiring terror in the lion himself, that most intrepid of
    animals.----They regulate the conduct of our magistrates, and
    open or close to them their own houses. They prescribe rest or
    movement to the Roman fasces: they command or prohibit battles.
    In a word, they lord it over the masters of the world." As well
    among the ancient Greeks as the Romans, was the cock regarded
    with respect, and even awe. The former people practised
    divinations by means of this bird. Supposing there to be a doubt
    in the camp as to the fittest day to fight a battle, the letter
    of every day in the week would be placed face downwards, and a
    grain of corn placed on each; then the sacred cock would be let
    loose, and, according to the letters he pecked his corn from, so
    would the battle-time be regulated. On one momentous occasion,
    however, a person inimical to priestly interest officiously
    examined the grain, and found that those lying on the letters
    not wanted were made of wax, and the birds, preferring the true
    grain, left these untouched. It is needless to add that, after
    this, divination through the medium of cocks and grain fell out
    of fashion. Whether or no the learned fowl above alluded to were
    of the "game" breed, is unknown; but that the birds were bred
    for the inhuman sport of fighting many hundred years before the
    Christian era, there can be no doubt. Themistocles, the Athenian
    king, who flourished more than two thousand years ago, took
    advantage of the sight of a pitched battle between two cocks to
    harangue his soldiers on courage. "Observe," said he, "with what
    intrepid valour they fight, inspired by no other motive than
    lore of victory; whereas you have to contend for your religion
    and your liberty, for your wives and children, and for the tombs
    of your ancestors." And to this day his courage has not
    degenerated. He still preserves his bold and elegant gait, his
    sparkling eye, while his wedge-shaped beak and cruel spurs are
    ever ready to support his defiant crow. It is no wonder that the
    breed is not plentiful--first, on account of the few eggs laid
    by the hen; and, secondly, from the incurable pugnacity of the
    chicks. Half fledged broods may be found blind as bats from
    fighting, and only waiting for the least glimmer of sight to be
    at it again. Without doubt, the flesh of game fowls is every way
    superior to that of every chicken of the family.

BROILED FOWL AND MUSHROOM SAUCE.

939. INGREDIENTS.--A large fowl, seasoning, to taste, of pepper and
salt, 2 handfuls of button mushrooms, 1 slice of lean ham, 3/4 pint of
thickened gravy, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of
pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into quarters, roast it until three-parts done,
and keep it well basted whilst at the fire. Take the fowl up, broil it
for a few minutes over a clear fire, and season it with pepper and salt.
Have ready some mushroom sauce made in the following manner. Put the
mushrooms into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, the ham, a
seasoning of pepper and salt, and the gravy; simmer these gently for 1/2
hour, add the lemon-juice and sugar, dish the fowl, and pour the sauce
round them.

_Time_.--To roast the fowl, 35 minutes; to broil it, 10 to 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to January.

[Illustration: BLACK BANTAMS.]

    THE BANTAM.--No one will dispute that for beauty, animation,
    plumage, and courage the Bantam is entitled to rank next to the
    game fowl. As its name undoubtedly implies, the bird is of
    Asiatic origin. The choicest sorts are the buff-coloured, and
    those that are entirely black. A year-old Bantam cock of pure
    breed will not weigh more than sixteen ounces. Despite its small
    size, however, it is marvellously bold, especially in defence of
    its progeny. A friend of the writer's, residing at Kensington,
    possessed a pair of thorough-bred Bantams, that were allowed the
    range of a yard where a fierce bull-terrier was kennelled. The
    hen had chicks; and, when about three weeks old, one of them
    strayed into the dog-kennel. The grim beast within took no
    notice of the tiny fledgling; but, when the anxious mother
    ventured in to fetch out the truant, with a growl the dog woke,
    and nearly snapped her asunder in his great jaws. The cock bird
    saw the tragic fate of its partner; but, nothing daunted, flew
    at the dog with a fierce cry, and pecked savagely at its face.
    The odds, however, were too great; and, when the terrier had
    sufficiently recovered from the astonishment caused by the
    sudden and unexpected attack, he seized the audacious Bantam,
    and shook him to death; and, in five minutes, the devoted couple
    were entombed in _Pincher's_ capacious maw.

BOILED FOWL AND RICE.

940. INGREDIENTS.--1 fowl, mutton broth, 2 onions, 2 small blades of
pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint of rice, parsley and
butter.

_Mode_.--Truss the fowl as for boiling, and put it into a stewpan with
sufficient clear well-skimmed mutton broth to cover it; add the onion,
mace, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; stew very gently for about 1
hour, should the fowl be large, and about 1/2 hour before it is ready
put in the rice, which should be well washed and soaked. When the latter
is tender, strain it from the liquor, and put it on a sieve reversed to
dry before the fire, and, in the mean time, keep the fowl hot. Dish it,
put the rice round as a border, pour a little parsley and butter over
the fowl, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.

_Time_.--A large fowl, 1 hour.

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring.

[Illustration: DORKINGS.]

    THE DORKING.--This bird takes its name from that of a town in
    Surrey, where the breed is to be found in greater numbers, and
    certainly in greater perfection, than elsewhere. It is generally
    believed that this particular branch of poultry was found in the
    town above mentioned as long ago as the Roman era. The Dorking's
    chief characteristic is that he has five claws on each foot; the
    extra claw, however, is never of sufficient length to encumber
    the foot, or to cause it to "drag" its nest, or scratch out the
    eggs. The colour of the true Dorking is pure white; long in the
    body, short in the legs, and a prolific layer. Thirty years ago,
    there was much controversy respecting the origin of the Dorking.
    The men of Sussex declared that the bird belonged to them, and
    brought birds indigenous to their weald, and possessing all the
    Dorking fine points and peculiarities, in proof of the
    declaration. Others inclined to the belief that the Poland bird
    was the father of the Dorking, and not without at least a show
    of reason, as the former bird much resembles the latter in
    shape; and, despite its sombre hue, it is well known that the
    Poland cock will occasionally beget thorough white stock from
    white English hens. The commotion has, however, long ago
    subsided, and Dorking still retains its fair reputation for
    fowl.

CURRIED FOWL.

941. INGREDIENTS.--1 fowl, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions sliced, 1 pint of
white veal gravy, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 tablespoonful of
flour, 1 apple, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan, with the onions sliced, the fowl
cut into small joints, and the apple peeled, cored, and minced. Fry of a
pale brown, add the stock, and stew gently for 20 minutes; rub down the
curry-powder and flour with a little of the gravy, quite smoothly, and
stir this to the other ingredients; simmer for rather more than 1/2
hour, and just before serving, add the above proportion of hot cream and
lemon-juice. Serve with boiled rice, which may either be heaped lightly
on a dish by itself, or put round the curry as a border.

_Time_.--50 minutes.

_Average cost_, 3s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ in the winter.

_Note_.--This curry may be made of cold chicken, but undressed meat will
be found far superior.

    THE POLAND.--This bird, a native of Holland, is a great
    favourite with fowl-keepers, especially those who have on eye to
    profit rather than to amusement. Those varieties known as the
    "silver spangled" and the "gold spangled" are handsome enough to
    please the most fastidious; but the common black breed, with the
    bushy crown of white feathers, is but a plain bird. The chief
    value of the common Poland lies in the great number of eggs they
    produce; indeed, in many parts, they are as well known as
    "everlasting layers" as by their proper name. However, the
    experienced breeder would take good care to send the eggs of his
    everlasting layers to market, and not use them for home
    consumption, as, although they may be as large as those laid by
    other hens, the amount of nutriment contained in them is not
    nearly so great. Mr. Mowbray once kept an account of the number
    of eggs produced by this prolific bird, with the following
    result:--From the 25th of October to the 25th of the following
    September five hens laid 503 eggs; the average weight of each
    egg was one ounce five drachms, and the total weight of the
    whole, exclusive of the shells, 50-1/4 pounds. Taking the weight
    of the birds at the fair average of five pounds each, we thus
    see them producing within a year double their weight of egg
    alone; and, supposing every egg to contain a chick, and allowing
    the chick to, grow, in less than eighteen months from the laying
    of the first egg, _two thousand five hundred pounds_ of
    chicken-meat would be the result. The Poland is easily fattened,
    and its flesh is generally considered juicier and of richer
    flavour than most others.

[Illustration: SPANGLED POLANDS.]

CURRIED FOWL OR CHICKEN (Cold Meat Cookery).

942. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowls, 2 large onions, 1
apple, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful
of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions, peel, core, and chop the apple, and cut the
fowl into neat joints; fry these in the butter of a nice brown; then add
the curry-powder, flour, and gravy, and stew for about 20 minutes. Put
in the lemon-juice, and serve with boiled rice, either placed in a ridge
round the dish or separately. Two or three shallots or a little garlic
may be added, if approved.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Av. cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl,
6d.

_Seasonable_ in the winter.

[Illustration: COCHIN-CHINAS.]

    THE COCHIN-CHINA.--About fifteen years ago, the arrival of this
    distinguished Asiatic created in England as great a sensation as
    might be expected from the landing of an invading host. The
    first pair that ever made their appearance here were natives of
    Shanghai, and were presented to the queen, who exhibited them at
    the Dublin poultry-show of 1818. Then began the "Cochin"
    _furor_. As soon as it was discovered, despite the most
    strenuous endeavours to keep the tremendous secret, that a
    certain dealer was possessed of a pair of these birds,
    straightway the avenues to that dealer's shop were blocked by
    broughams, and chariots, and hack cabs, until the shy poulterer
    had been tempted by a sufficiently high sum to part with his
    treasure. Bank-notes were exchanged for Cochin chicks, and
    Cochin eggs were in as great demand as though they had been laid
    by the fabled golden goose. The reign of the Cochin China was,
    however, of inconsiderable duration. The bird that, in 1847,
    would fetch thirty guineas, is now counted but ordinary
    chicken-meat, and its price is regulated according to its weight
    when ready for the spit. As for the precious buff eggs, against
    which, one time of day, guineas were weighed,--send for
    sixpenn'orth at the cheesemonger's, and you will get at least
    five; which is just as it should be. For elegance of shape or
    quality of flesh, the Cochin cannot for a moment stand
    comparison with our handsome dunghill; neither can the
    indescribable mixture of growling and braying, peculiar to the
    former, vie with the musical trumpeting of our own morning
    herald: yet our poultry-breeders have been immense gainers by
    the introduction of the ungainly celestial, inasmuch as _new
    blood_ has been infused into the English chicken family. Of this
    incalculable advantage we may be sure; while, as to the Cochin's
    defects, they are certain to be lost in the process of "cross
    and cross" breeding.

BOILED FOWLS A LA BECHAMEL.

943. INGREDIENTS.--A pair of fowls, 1 pint of Béchamel, No, 367, a few
bunches of boiled brocoli or cauliflower.

_Mode_.--Truss and boil the fowls by recipe No. 938; make a pint of
Béchamel sauce by recipe No. 367; pour some of this over the fowls, and
the remainder send to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with bunches
of boiled cauliflowers or brocoli, and serve very hot. The sauce should
be made sufficiently thick to adhere to the fowls; that for the tureen
should be thinned by adding a spoonful or two of stock.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size.

_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. a pair.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring.

    SPACE FOR FOWLS.--We are no advocates for converting the
    domestic fowl into a cage-bird. We have known amateur
    fowl-keepers--worthy souls, who would butter the very barley
    they gave their pets, if they thought they would the more enjoy
    it--coop up a male bird and three or four hens in an ordinary
    egg-chest placed on its side, and with the front closely barred
    with iron hooping! This system will not do. Every animal, from
    man himself to the guinea-pig, must have what is vulgarly, but
    truly, known as "elbow-room;" and it must be self-evident how
    emphatically this rule applies to winged animals. It may be
    urged, in the case of domestic fowls, that from constant disuse,
    and from clipping and plucking, and other sorts of maltreatment,
    their wings can hardly be regarded as instruments of flight; we
    maintain, however, that you may pluck a fowl's wing-joints as
    bare as a pumpkin, but you will not erase from his memory that
    he is a fowl, and that his proper sphere is the open air. If he
    likewise reflects that he is an ill-used fowl--a prison-bird--he
    will then come to the conclusion, that there is not the least
    use, under such circumstances, for his existence; and you must
    admit that the decision is only logical and natural.

BOILED FOWL, with Oysters.

(_Excellent_.)

944. INGREDIENTS.--1 young fowl, 3 dozen oysters, the yolks of 2 eggs,
1/4 pint of cream.

_Mode_.--Truss a young fowl as for boiling; fill the inside with oysters
which have been bearded and washed in their own liquor; secure the ends
of the fowl, put it into a jar, and plunge the jar into a saucepan of
boiling water. Keep it boiling for 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer; then
take the gravy that has flowed from the oysters and fowl, of which there
will be a good quantity; stir in the cream and yolks of eggs, add a few
oysters scalded in their liquor; let the sauce get quite _hot_, but do
not allow it to _boil;_ pour some of it over the fowl, and the remainder
send to table in a tureen. A blade of pounded mace added to the sauce,
with the cream and eggs, will be found an improvement.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 4s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

    THE FOWL-HOUSE.--In building a fowl-house, take care that it be,
    if possible, built against a wall or fence that faces the
    _south_, and thus insure its inmates against many cold winds,
    driving rains, and sleets they will otherwise suffer. Let the
    floor of the house slope half an inch to the foot from back to
    front, so as to insure drainage; let it also be close, hard, and
    perfectly smooth; so that it may be cleanly swept out. A capital
    plan is to mix a few bushels of chalk and dry earth, spread it
    over the floor, and pay a paviour's labourer a trifle to hammer
    it level with his rammer. The fowl-house should be seven feet
    high, and furnished with perches at least two feet apart. The
    perches must be level, and not one above the other, or
    unpleasant consequences may ensue to the undermost row. The
    perches should be ledged (not fixed--just dropped into sockets,
    that they may be easily taken out and cleaned) not lower than
    five feet from the ground, convenient slips of wood being driven
    into the wall, to render the ascent as easy as possible. The
    front of the fowl-house should be latticed, taking care that the
    interstices be not wide enough even to tempt a chick to crawl
    through. Nesting-boxes, containing soft hay, and fitted against
    the walls, so as to be easily reached by the perch-ladder,
    should be supplied. It will be as well to keep by you a few
    portable doors, so that you may hang one before the entrance to
    a nesting-box, when the hen goes in to sit. This will prevent
    other hens from intruding, a habit to which some are much
    addicted.

FRICASSEED FOWL OR CHICKEN (an Entree).

945. INGREDIENTS.--2 small fowls or 1 large one, 3 oz. of butter, a
bunch of parsley and green onions, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, 1 shalot,
1 bay-leaf, salt and white pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks
of 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Choose a couple of fat plump chickens, and, after drawing,
singeing, and washing them, skin, and carve them into joints; blanch
these in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes; take them out, and immerse
them in cold water to render them white. Put the trimmings, with the
necks and legs, into a stewpan; add the parsley, onions, clove, mace,
shalot, bay-leaf, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour to these the
water that the chickens were blanched in, and simmer gently for rather
more than 1 hour. Have ready another stewpan; put in the joints of fowl,
with the above proportion of butter; dredge them with flour, let them
get hot, but do not brown them much; then moisten the fricassee with the
gravy made from the trimmings, &c., and stew very gently for 1/2 hour.
Lift the fowl into another stewpan, skim the sauce, reduce it quickly
over the fire, by letting it boil fast, and strain it over them. Add the
cream, and a seasoning of pounded mace and cayenne; let it boil up, and
when ready to serve, stir to it the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs: these
should not be put in till the last moment, and the sauce should be made
_hot_, but must _not boil_, or it will instantly curdle. A few
button-mushrooms stewed with the fowl are by many persons considered an
improvement.

_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy, 1/2 hour to simmer the fowl.

_Average cost_, 5s. the pair.

_Sufficient_.--1 large fowl for one entrée.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    STOCKING THE FOWL-HOUSE.--Take care that the birds with which
    you stock your house are _young_. The surest indications of old
    age are fading of the comb and gills from brilliant red to a
    dingy brick-colour, general paleness of plumage, brittleness of
    the feathers, length and size of the claws, and the scales of
    the legs and feet assuming a ragged and _corny_ appearance. Your
    cock and hens should be as near two years old as possible. Hens
    will lay at a year old, but the eggs are always insignificant in
    size, and the layers giddy and unsteady sitters. The hen-bird is
    in her prime for breeding at three years old, and will continue
    so, under favourable circumstances, for two years longer; after
    which she will decline. Crowing hens, and those that have large
    combs, are generally looked on with mistrust; but this is mere
    silliness and superstition--though it is possible that a spruce
    young cock would as much object to a spouse with such peculiar
    addictions, as a young fellow of our own species would to a
    damsel who whistled and who wore whiskers. Fowls with yellow
    legs should be avoided; they are generally of a tender
    constitution, loose-fleshed, and of indifferent flavour.

FRICASSEED FOWL (Cold Meat Cookery).

946. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 strip of
lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion,
popper and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1/4
pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Carve the fowls into nice joints; make gravy of the trimmings
and legs, by stewing them with the lemon-peel, mace, herbs, onion,
seasoning, and water, until reduced to 1/2 pint; then strain, and put in
the fowl. Warm it through, and thicken with a teaspoonful of flour; stir
the yolks of the eggs into the cream; add these to the sauce, let it get
thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle.

_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy, 1/4 hour to warm the fowl.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    CHARACTERISTICS OF HEALTH AND POWER.--The chief characteristics
    of health in a fowl are brightness and dryness of eye and
    nostrils, the comb and wattles firm and ruddy, the feathers
    elastic and glossy. The most useful cock is generally the
    greatest tyrant, who struts among his hens despotically, with
    his head erect and his eyes ever watchful. There is likely to be
    handsomer and stronger chicks in a house where a bold,
    active--even savage--bird reigns, than where the lord of the
    hen-house is a weak, meek creature, who bears the abuse and
    peckings of his wives without a remonstrance. I much prefer
    dark-coloured cock-birds to those of light plumage. A cock, to
    be handsome, should be of middling size; his bill should be
    short, comb bright-red, wattles large, breast broad, and wings
    strong. His head should be rather small than otherwise, his legs
    short and sturdy, and his spurs well-formed; his feathers should
    be short and close, and the more frequently and heartily he
    crows, the better father he is likely to become. The common
    error of choosing hens _above_ the ordinary stature of their
    respective varieties should be avoided, as the best
    breeding-hens are those of medium size.

FRIED FOWLS (Cold Meat Cookery).

I.

947. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowls, vinegar, salt and
cayenne to taste, 3 or 4 minced shalots. For the batter,--1/2 lb. of
flour, 1/2 pint of hot water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into nice joints; steep them for an hour in a
little vinegar, with salt, cayenne, and minced shalots. Make the batter
by mixing the flour and water smoothly together; melt in it the butter,
and add the whites of egg beaten to a froth; take out the pieces of
fowl, dip them in the batter, and fry, in boiling lard, a nice brown.
Pile them high in the dish, and garnish with fried parsley or rolled
bacon. When approved, a sauce or gravy may be served with them.

_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the fowl.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    CHANTICLEER AND HIS COMPANIONS.--On bringing the male and female
    birds together for the first time, it will be necessary to watch
    the former closely, as it is a very common occurrence with him
    to conceive a sudden and violent dislike for one or more of his
    wives, and not allow the obnoxious ones to approach within some
    distance of the others; indeed, I know many cases where the
    capricious tyrant has set upon the innocent cause of his
    resentment and killed her outright. In all such cases, the hen
    objected to should be removed and replaced by another. If the
    cock should, by any accident, get killed, considerable delicacy
    is required in introducing a new one. The hens may mope, and
    refuse to associate with their new husband, clustering in
    corners, and making odious comparisons between him and the
    departed; or the cock may have his own peculiar notions as to
    what a wife should be, and be by no means satisfied with those
    you have provided him. The plan is, to keep him by himself
    nearly the whole day, supplying him plentifully with
    exhilarating food, then to turn him loose among the hens, and to
    continue this practice, allowing him more of the society of his
    wives each day, until you suffer him to abide with them
    altogether.

II.

948. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, vinegar, salt and
cayenne to taste, 4 minced shalots, yolk of egg; to every teacupful of
bread crumbs allow 1 blade of pounded mace, 5 teaspoonful of minced
lemon-peel, 1 saltspoonful of salt, a few grains of cayenne.

_Mode_.--Steep the pieces of fowl as in the preceding recipe, then dip
them into the yolk of an egg or clarified butter; sprinkle over bread
crumbs with which have been mixed salt, mace, cayenne, and lemon-peel in
the above proportion. Fry a light brown, and serve with or without
gravy, as may be preferred.

_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the fowl.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    VARIOUS MODES OF FATTENING FOWLS.--It would, I think, be a
    difficult matter to find, among the entire fraternity of
    fowl-keepers, a dozen whose mode of fattening "stock" is the
    same. Some say that the grand f secret is to give them abundance
    of saccharine food; others say nothing beats heavy corn steeped
    in milk; while another breeder, celebrated in his day, and the
    recipient of a gold medal from a learned society, says, "The
    best method is as follows:-The chickens are to be taken from the
    hen the night after they are hatched, and fed with eggs
    hard-boiled, chopped, and mixed with crumbs of bread, as larks
    and other small birds are fed, for the first fortnight; after
    which give them oatmeal and treacle mixed so as to crumble, of
    which the chickens are very fond, and thrive so fast that, at
    the end of two months, they will be as large as full-grown
    fowls." Others there are who insist that nothing beats
    oleaginous diet, and cram their birds with ground oats and suet.
    But, whatever the course of diet favoured, on one point they
    seem agreed; and that is, that, while fattening, the fowls
    _should be kept in the dark_. Supposing the reader to be a
    dealer--a breeder of gross chicken meat for the market (against
    which supposition the chances are 10,000 to 1), and beset with
    as few scruples as generally trouble the huckster, the advice is
    valuable. "Laugh and grow fat" is a good maxim enough; but
    "Sleep and grow fat" is, as is well known to folks of porcine
    attributes, a better. The poor birds, immured in their dark
    dungeons, ignorant that there is life and sunshine abroad, tuck
    their heads under their wings and make a long night of it; while
    their digestive organs, having no harder work than to pile up
    fat, have an easy time enough. But, unless we are mistaken, he
    who breeds poultry for his own eating, bargains for a more
    substantial reward than the questionable pleasure of burying his
    carving-knife in chicken grease. Tender, delicate, and
    nutritious flesh is the great aim; and these qualities, I can
    affirm without fear of contradiction, were never attained by a
    dungeon-fatted chicken: perpetual gloom and darkness is as
    incompatible with chicken life as it is with human. If you wish
    to be convinced of the absurdity of endeavouring to thwart
    nature's laws, plant a tuft of grass, or a cabbage-plant, in the
    darkest corner of your coal-cellar. The plant or the tuft may
    increase in length and breadth, but its colour will be as wan
    and pale, almost, as would be your own face under the
    circumstances.

POULET A LA MARENGO.

949. INGREDIENTS.--1 large fowl, 4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 1
tablespoonful of flour, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, about 20
mushroom-buttons, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered
sugar, a very small piece of garlic.

_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into 8 or 10 pieces; put them with the oil into a
stewpan, and brown them over a moderate fire; dredge in the above
proportion of flour; when that is browned, pour in the stock or water;
let it simmer very slowly for rather more than 1/2 hour, and skim off
the fat as it rises to the top; add the mushrooms; season with salt,
pepper, garlic, and sugar; take out the fowl, which arrange
pyramidically on the dish, with the inferior joints at the bottom.
Reduce the sauce by boiling it quickly over the fire, keeping it stirred
until sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of a spoon; pour over the
fowl, and serve.

_Time_.--Altogether 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    A FOWL À LA MARENGO.--The following is the origin of the
    well-known dish Poulet à la Marengo:--On the evening of the
    battle the first consul was very hungry after the agitation of
    the day, and a fowl was ordered with all expedition. The fowl
    was procured, but there was no butter at hand, and unluckily
    none could be found in the neighbourhood. There was oil in
    abundance, however; and the cook having poured a certain
    quantity into his skillet, put in the fowl, with a clove of
    garlic and other seasoning, with a little white wine, the best
    the country afforded; he then garnished it with mushrooms, and
    served it up hot. This dish proved the second conquest of the
    day, as the first consul found it most agreeable to his palate,
    and expressed his satisfaction. Ever since, a fowl à la Marengo
    is a favourite dish with all lovers of good cheer.

MINCED FOWL A LA BECHAMEL.

950. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 6 tablespoonfuls of
Béchamel sauce No. 367, 6 tablespoonfuls of white stock No. 107, the
white of 1 egg, bread crumbs, clarified butter.

_Mode_.--Take the remains of roast fowls, mince the white meat very
small, and put it into a stewpan with the Béchamel and stock; stir it
well over the fire, and just let it boil up. Pour the mince into a dish,
beat up the white of egg, spread it over, and strew on it a few grated
bread crumbs; pour a very little clarified butter on the whole, and
brown either before the fire or with a salamander. This should be served
in a silver dish, if at hand.

_Time_.--2 or 3 minutes to simmer in the sauce.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE BEST WAY TO FATTEN FOWLS.--The barn-door fowl is in itself a
    complete refutation of the cramming and dungeon policy of
    feeding practised by some. This fowl, which has the common run
    of the farm-yard, living on dairy-scraps and offal from the
    stable, begins to grow fat at threshing-time. He has his fill of
    the finest corn; he has his fill of fresh air and natural
    exercise, and at last he comes smoking to the table,--a dish
    for the gods. In the matter of unnaturally stuffing and
    confining fowls, Mowbray is exactly of our opinion. He says:
    "The London chicken-butchers, as they are termed, are said to
    be, of all others, the most expeditious and dexterous feeders,
    putting up a coop of fowls, and making them thoroughly fat
    within the space of a fortnight, using much grease, and that
    perhaps not of the most delicate kind, in the food. In this way
    I have no boasts to make, having always found it necessary to
    allow a considerable number of weeks for the purpose of making
    fowls fat in coops. In the common way this business is often
    badly managed, fowls being huddled together in a small coop,
    tearing each other to pieces, instead of enjoying that repose
    which alone can insure, the wished-for object--irregularly fed
    and cleaned, until they become so stenched and poisoned in their
    own excrement, that their flesh actually smells and tastes when
    smoking upon the table." Sussex produces the fattest and largest
    poultry of any county in England, and the fatting process there
    most common is to give them a gruel made of pot-liquor and
    bruised oats, with which are mixed hog's grease, sugar, and
    milk. The fowls are kept very warm, and crammed morning and
    night. They are put into the coop, and kept there two or three
    days before the cramming begins, and then it is continued for a
    fortnight, and the birds are sent to market.

RAGOUT OF FOWL.

951. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowls, 3 shalots, 2 blades
of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 or three slices of lean ham, 1
pint of stock or water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, 1
dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2
teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Cut the fowls up into neat pieces, the same as for a fricassee;
put the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots, mace, herbs, ham,
onion, and stock (water may be substituted for this). Boil it slowly for
1 hour, strain the liquor, and put a small piece of butter into a
stewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry up the butter,
and stir it over the fire. Put in the strained liquor, boil for a few
minutes, and strain it again over the pieces of fowl. Squeeze in the
lemon-juice, add the sugar and a seasoning of pepper and salt, make it
hot, but do not allow it to boil; lay the fowl neatly on the dish, and
garnish with croûtons.

_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold
fowl, 9d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE BEST FOWLS TO FATTEN, &c.--The chicks most likely to fatten
    well are those first hatched in the brood, and those with the
    shortest legs. Long-legged fowls, as a rule, are by far the most
    difficult to fatten. The most delicate sort are those which are
    put up to fatten as soon as the hen forsakes them; for, as says
    an old writer, "then they will be in fine condition, and full of
    flesh, which flesh is afterwards expended in the exercise of
    foraging for food, and in the increase of stature; and it may be
    a work of some weeks to recover it,--especially with young
    cocks." But whether you take them in hand as chicks, or not till
    they are older, the three prime rules to be observed are, sound
    and various food, warmth, and cleanliness. There is nothing that
    a fatting fowl grows so fastidious about as his water. If water
    any way foul be offered him, he will not drink it, but sulk with
    his food, and pine, and you all the while wondering the reason
    why. Keep them separate, allowing to each bird as much space as
    you can spare. Spread the ground with sharp sandy gravel; take
    care that they are not disturbed. In addition to their regular
    diet of good corn, make them a cake of ground oats or beans,
    brown sugar, milk, and mutton suet. Let the cake lie till it is
    stale, then crumble it, and give each bird a gill-measureful
    morning and evening. No entire grain should be given to fowls
    during the time they are fattening; indeed, the secret of
    success lies in supplying them with the most nutritious food
    without stint, and in such a form that their digestive mills
    shall find no difficulty in grinding it.

[Illustration: ROAST FOWL.]

ROAST FOWLS.

952. INGREDIENTS.--A pair of fowls; a little flour.

_Mode_.--Fowls to be tender should be killed a couple of days before
they are dressed; when the feathers come out easily, then let them be
picked and cooked. In drawing them, be careful not to break the
gall-bag, as, wherever it touches, it would impart a very bitter taste;
the liver and gizzard should also be preserved. Truss them in the
following manner:--After having carefully picked them, cut off the head,
and skewer the skin of the neck down over the back. Cut off the claws;
dip the legs in boiling water, and scrape them; turn the pinions under,
run a skewer through them and the middle of the legs, which should be
passed through the body to the pinion and leg on the other side, one
skewer securing the limbs on both sides. The liver and gizzard should be
placed in the wings, the liver on one side and the gizzard on the other.
Tie the legs together by passing a trussing-needle, threaded with twine,
through the backbone, and secure it on the other side. If trussed like a
capon, the legs are placed more apart. When firmly trussed, singe them
all over; put them down to a bright clear fire, paper the breasts with a
sheet of buttered paper, and keep the fowls well basted. Roast them for
3/4 hour, more or less, according to the size, and 10 minutes before
serving, remove the paper, dredge the fowls with a little fine flour,
put a piece of butter into the basting-ladle, and as it melts, baste the
fowls with it; when nicely frothed and of a rich colour, serve with good
brown gravy, a little of which should be poured over the fowls, and a
tureen of well-made bread sauce, No. 371. Mushroom, oyster, or egg sauce
are very suitable accompaniments to roast fowl.--Chicken is roasted in
the same manner.

_Time_.--A very large fowl, quite 1 hour, medium-sized one 3/4 hour,
chicken 1/2 hour, or rather longer.

_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. a pair; when scarce, 7s. 6d. the
pair.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring.

    THE DISEASES OF FOWLS, AND HOW TO CURE THEM.--The diseases to
    which _Gallus domesticus_ is chiefly liable, are roup, pip,
    scouring, and chip. The first-mentioned is the most common of
    all, and results from cold. The ordinary symptoms,--swollen
    eyes, running at the nostrils, and the purple colour of the
    wattles. Part birds so affected from the healthy ones, as, when
    the disease is at its height it is as contagious as glanders
    among horses. Wash out the nostrils with warm water, give daily
    a peppercorn inclosed in dough; bathe the eyes and nostrils with
    warm milk and water. If the head is much swollen, bathe with
    warm brandy and water. When the bird is getting well, put half a
    spoonful of sulphur in his drinking-water. Some fanciers
    prescribe for this disease half a spoonful of table salt,
    dissolved in half a gill of water, in which rue has been
    steeped; others, pills composed of ground rice and fresh butter:
    but the remedy first mentioned will be found far the best. As
    there is a doubt respecting the wholesomeness of the eggs laid
    by roupy hens, it will be as well to throw them away. The pip is
    a white horny skin growing on the tip of the bird's tongue. It
    should be removed with the point of a penknife, and the place
    rubbed with salt.

FOWL AND RICE CROQUETTES (an Entree).

953. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1 quart of stock or broth, 3 oz. of
butter, minced fowl, egg, and bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Put the rice into the above proportion of cold stock or broth,
and let it boil very gently for 1/2 hour; then add the butter, and
simmer it till quite dry and soft When cold, make it into balls, hollow
out the inside, and fill with minced fowl made by recipe No. 956. The
mince should be rather thick. Cover over with rice, dip the balls into
egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and fry a nice brown. Dish them,
and garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white sauce, or a little cream,
may be stirred into the rice before it cools.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to boil the rice, 10 minutes to fry the croquettes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    CHIP.--If the birds are allowed to puddle about on wet soil, or
    to be much out in the rain, they will get "chip." Young chicks
    are especially liable to this complaint. They will sit shivering
    in out-of-the-way corners, perpetually uttering a dolorous
    "chip, chip;" seemingly frozen with cold, though, on handling
    them, they are found to be in high fever. A wholesale breeder
    would take no pains to attempt the cure of fowls so afflicted;
    but they who keep chickens for the pleasure, and not for the
    profit they yield, will be inclined to recover them if possible.
    Give them none but warm food, half a peppercorn rolled in a
    morsel of dough every night, and a little nitre in their water.
    Above all, keep them warm; a corner in the kitchen fender, for a
    day or two, will do more to effect a cure than the run of a
    druggist's warehouse.


CROQUETTES OF FOWL (an Entree).

954. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, white sauce; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste; 1/2
teaspoonful of pounded sugar, the remains of cold roast fowls, the yolks
of 2 eggs, egg, and bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Mince the fowl, carefully removing all skin and bone, and fry
the shalots in the butter; add the minced fowl, dredge in the flour, put
in the pepper, salt, mace, pounded sugar, and sufficient white sauce to
moisten it; stir to it the yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, and set it by to
cool. Then make the mixture up into balls, egg and bread-crumb them, and
fry a nice brown. They may be served on a border of mashed potatoes,
with gravy or sauce in the centre.

_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the balls.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE TURN.--What is termed "turrling" with song-birds, is known,
    as regard fowls, as the "turn." Its origin is the same in both
    cases,--over-feeing and want of exercise. Without a moment's
    warning, a fowl so afflicted will totter and fall from its
    perch, and unless assistance be at hand, speedily give up the
    ghost. The veins of the palate should be opened, and a few drops
    of mixture composed of six parts of sweet nitre and one of
    ammonia, poured down its throat. I have seen ignorant keepers
    plunge a bird, stricken with the "turn," into cold water; but I
    never saw it taken out again alive; and for a good reason: the
    sudden chill has the effect of driving the blood to the
    head,--of aggravating the disease indeed, instead of relieving
    it.

HASHED FOWL--an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery).

955. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 pint of water, 1
onion, 2 or three small carrots, 1 blade of pounded mace, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of butter and
flour, 1-1/2 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut off the best joints from the fowl, and the remainder make
into gravy, by adding to the bones and trimmings a pint of water, an
onion sliced and fried of a nice brown, the carrots, mace, seasoning,
and herbs. Let these stew gently for 1-1/2 hour, strain the liquor, and
thicken with a little flour and butter. Lay in the fowl, thoroughly warm
it through, add the ketchup, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--Altogether 1-3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    SKIN-DISEASE IN FOWLS.--Skin-disease is, nine times out of ten,
    caused by the feathers being swarmed by parasites. Poor feeding
    will induce this, even if cleanliness be observed;
    uncleanliness, however liberal the bill of fare, will be taken
    as an invitation by the little biting pests, and heartily
    responded to. Mix half a teaspoonful of hydro-oxalic acid with
    twelve teaspoonfuls of water,--apply to the itching parts with
    an old shaving-brush.

    OBSTRUCTION OF THE CROP.--Obstruction of the crop is occasioned
    by weakness or greediness. You may know when a bird is so
    afflicted by his crop being distended almost to bursting.
    Mowbray tells of a hen of his in this predicament; when the crop
    was opened, a quantity of new beans were discovered in a state
    of vegetation. The crop should be slit from the _bottom_ to the
    _top_ with a sharp pair of scissors, the contents taken out, and
    the slit sewed up again with line white thread.

MINCED FOWL--an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery).

956. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 6
tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, two teaspoonfuls of flour, 1/2
teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Cut out from the fowl all the white meat, and mince it finely
without any skin or bone; put the bones, skin, and trimmings into a
stewpan with an onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, a blade of mace, and
nearly a pint of water; let this stew for an hour, then strain the
liquor. Chop the eggs small; mix them with the fowl; add salt, cayenne,
and pounded mace, put in the gravy and remaining ingredients; let the
whole just boil, and serve with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Another way to make this is to mince the fowl, and warm it in
white sauce or Béchamel. When dressed like this, 3 or 4 poached eggs may
be placed on the top: oysters, or chopped mushrooms, or balls of oyster
forcemeat, may be laid round the dish.

    THE MOULTING SEASON.--During the moulting season beginning
    properly at the end of September, the fowls will require a
    little extra attention. Keep them dry and warm, and feed them
    liberally on warm and satisfying food. If in any fowl the moult
    should seem protracted, examine it for broken feather-stumps
    still beaded in the skin: if you find any, extract them
    carefully with a pair of tweezers. If a fowl is hearty and
    strong, six weeks will see him out of his trouble; if he is
    weakly, or should take cold during the time, he will not
    thoroughly recover in less than three months. It is seldom or
    ever that hens will lay during the moult; while the cock, during
    the same period, will give so little of his consideration to the
    frivolities of love, that you may as well, nay, much better,
    keep him by himself till he perfectly recovers. A moulting
    chicken makes but a sorry dish.

HASHED FOWL, Indian Fashion (an Entree).

957.--INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced
onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, pounded mace, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1
tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 pint of gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut the onions into slices, mince the apple, and fry these in
the butter; add pounded mace, pepper, salt, curry-powder, vinegar,
flour, and sugar in the above proportions; when the onion is brown, put
it the gravy, which should be previously made from the bones and
trimmings of the fowls, and stew for 3/4 hour; add the fowl cut into
nice-sized joints, let it warm through, and when quite tender, serve.
The dish should be garnished with au edging of boiled rice.

_Time_.--1 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE SCOUR OR DYSENTERY.--The scour, or dysentery, or diarrhoea,
    is induced variously. A sudden alteration in diet will cause it,
    as will a superabundance of green food. The best remedy is a
    piece of toasted biscuit sopped in ale. If the disease has too
    tight a hold on the bird to be quelled by this, give six drops
    of syrup of white poppies and six drops of castor-oil, mixed
    with a little oatmeal or ground rice. Restrict the bird's diet,
    for a few days, to dry food,--crushed beans or oats, stale
    bread-crumbs, &c.

    FOWL SCOLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

    958. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, 1/2
    pint of Béchamel, No. 367, or white sauce, No. 537 or 539.

    _Mode_.--Strip off the skin from the fowl; cut the meat into
    thin slices, and warm them in about 1/2 pint, or rather more, of
    Béchamel, or white sauce. When quite hot, serve, and garnish the
    dish with rolled ham or bacon toasted.

    _Time_.--1 minute to simmer the slices of fowl.

    _Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: THE FEATHER LEGGED BANTAM.]

    THE FEATHER LEGGED BANTAM.--Since the introduction of the Bantam
    into Europe, it has ramified into many varieties, none of which
    are destitute of elegance, and some, indeed, remarkable for
    their beauty. All are, or ought to be, of small size, but lively
    and vigorous, exhibiting in their movements both grace and
    stateliness. The variety shown in the engraving is remarkable
    for the _tarsi_, or beams of the legs, being plumed to the toes,
    with stiff, long feathers, which brush the ground. Owing,
    possibly, to the little care taken to preserve this variety from
    admixture, it is now not frequently seen. Another variety is
    often red, with a black breast and single dentated comb. The
    _tarsi_ are smooth, and of a dusky blue. When this sort of
    Bantam is pure, it yields in courage and spirit to none, and is,
    in fact, a game-fowl in miniature, being as beautiful and
    graceful as it is spirited. A pure white Bantam, possessing all
    the qualifications just named, is also bred in the royal aviary
    at Windsor.

AN INDIAN DISH OF FOWL (an Entree).

959. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced onions,
1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Divide the fowl into joints; slice and fry the onions in a
little butter, taking care not to burn them; sprinkle over the fowl a
little curry-powder and salt; fry these nicely, pile them high in the
centre of the dish, cover with the onion, and serve with a cut lemon on
a plate. Care must be taken that the onions are not greasy: they should
be quite dry, but not burnt.

_Time_.--5 minutes to fry the onions, 10 minutes to fry the fowl.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 4d.

_Seasonable_ during the winter month.

[Illustration: SPECKLED HAMBURGS.]

    THE SPECKLED HAMBURG.--Of the speckled, or spangled Hamburg
    which is a favourite breed with many persons, there are two
    varieties,--the golden-speckled and the silver-speckled. The
    general colour of the former is golden, or orange-yellow, each
    feather having a glossy dark brown or black tip, particularly
    remarkable on the hackles of the cock and the wing-coverts, and
    also on the darker feathers of the breast. The female is yellow,
    or orange-brown, the feathers in like manner being margined with
    black. The silver-speckled variety is distinguished by the
    ground-colour of the plumage being of a silver-white, with
    perhaps a tinge of straw-yellow, every leather being margined
    with a semi-lunar mark of glossy black. Both of these varieties
    are extremely beautiful, the hens laying freely. First-rate
    birds command a high price.

FOWL SAUTE WITH PEAS (an Entree).

960. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 oz. of butter,
pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2
pint of weak stock, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of pounded
sugar.

_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into nice pieces; put the butter into a stew-pan;
sautez or fry the fowl a nice brown colour, previously sprinkling it
with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Dredge in the flour, shake the
ingredients well round, then add the stock and peas, and stew till the
latter are tender, which will be in about 20 minutes; put in the pounded
sugar, and serve, placing the chicken round, and the peas in the middle
of the dish. When liked, mushrooms may be substituted for the peas.

_Time_.--Altogether 40 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 7d.

_Seasonable_ from June to August.


BOUDIN A LA REINE (an Entree).

(M. Ude's Recipe.)

961. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowls, 1 pint of Béchamel
No. 367, salt and cayenne to taste, egg and bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Take the breasts and nice white meat from the fowls; cut it
into small dice of an equal size, and throw them into some good
Béchamel, made by recipe No. 367; season with salt and cayenne, and put
the mixture into a dish to cool. When this preparation is quite cold,
cut it into 2 equal parts, which should be made into _boudins_ of a long
shape, the size of the dish they are intended to be served on; roll them
in flour, egg and bread-crumb them, and be careful that the ends are
well covered with the crumbs, otherwise they would break in the
frying-pan; fry them a nice colour, put them before the fire to drain
the greasy moisture from them, and serve with the remainder of the
Béchamel poured round: this should be thinned with a little stock.

_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the boudins.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entrée.

[Illustration: SEBRIGHT BANTAMS.]

    SIR JOHN SEBRIGHT'S BANTAMS.--Above all Bantams is placed, the
    celebrated and beautiful breed called Sir John Sebright's Silver
    Bantams. This breed, which Sir John brought to perfection after
    years of careful trials, is very small, with un-feathered legs,
    and a rose comb and short hackles. The plumage is gold or
    silver, spangled, every feather being of a golden orange, or of
    a silver white, with a glossy jet-black margin; the cocks have
    the tail folded like that of a hen, with the sickle feathers
    shortened straight, or nearly so, and broader than usual. The
    term _hen-cocks_ is, in consequence, often applied to them; but
    although the sickle feathers are thus modified, no bird
    possesses higher courage, or a more gallant carriage. The
    attitude of the cock is, indeed, singularly proud; and he is
    often seen to bear himself so haughtily, that his head, thrown
    back as if in disdain, nearly touches the two upper
    feathers--sickles they can scarcely be called--of his tail.
    Half-bred birds of this kind are not uncommon, but birds of the
    pure breed are not to be obtained without trouble and expense;
    indeed, some time ago, it was almost impossible to procure
    either a fowl or an egg. "The finest," says the writer whom we
    have consulted as to this breed, "we have ever seen, were in Sir
    John's poultry-yard, adjacent to Turnham-Green Common, in the
    byroad leading to Acton."

FOWL A LA MAYONNAISE.

962. INGREDIENTS.--A cold roast fowl, Mayonnaise sauce No. 468, 4 or 5
young lettuces, 4 hard-boiled eggs, a few water-cresses, endive.

_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into neat joints, lay them in a deep dish, piling
them high in the centre, sauce the fowl with Mayonnaise made by recipe
No. 468, and garnish the dish with young lettuces cut in halves,
water-cresses, endive, and hard-boiled eggs: these may be sliced in
rings, or laid on the dish whole, cutting off at the bottom a piece of
the white, to make the egg stand. All kinds of cold meat and solid fish
may be dressed à la Mayonnaise, and make excellent luncheon or supper
dishes. The sauce should not be poured over the fowls until the moment
of serving. Should a very large Mayonnaise be required, use 2 fowls
instead of 1, with an equal proportion of the remaining ingredients.

_Average cost_, with one fowl, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.

_Seasonable_ from April to September.

[Illustration: BLACK SPANISH.]

    BLACK SPANISH.--The real Spanish fowl is recognized by its
    uniformly black colour burnished with tints of green; its
    peculiar white face, and the large development of its comb and
    wattle. The hens are excellent layers, and their eggs are of a
    very large size. They are, however, bad nurses; consequently,
    their eggs should be laid in the nest of other varieties to be
    hatched. "In purchasing Spanish," says an authority, "blue legs,
    the entire absence of white or coloured feathers in the plumage,
    and a large, white face, with a very large high comb, which
    should be erect in the cock, though pendent in the hens, should
    be insisted on." The flesh of this fowl is esteemed; but, from
    the smallness of its body when compared with that of the
    Dorking, it is not placed on an equality with it for the table.
    Otherwise, however, they are profitable birds, and their
    handsome carriage, and striking contrast of colour in the comb,
    face, and plumage, are a high recommendation to them as kept
    fowls. For a town fowl, they are perhaps better adapted than any
    other variety.

FOWL PILLAU, based on M. Soyer's Recipe (an Indian Dish).

963. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, a fowl, 2 quarts of
stock or good broth, 40 cardamum-seeds, 1/2 oz. of coriander-seed, 1/4
oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of
cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin slices of bacon, 2
hard-boiled eggs.

_Mode_.--Well wash 1 lb. of the best Patna rice, put it into a
frying-pan with the butter, which keep moving over a slow fire until the
rice is lightly browned. Truss the fowl as for boiling, put it into a
stewpan with the stock or broth; pound the spices and seeds thoroughly
in a mortar, tie them in a piece of muslin, and put them in with the
fowl. Let it boil slowly until it is nearly done; then add the rice,
which should stew until quite tender and almost dry; cut the onions into
slices, sprinkle them with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of a
nice brown colour. Have ready the slices of bacon curled and grilled,
and the eggs boiled hard. Lay the fowl in the form of a pyramid upon a
dish, smother with the rice, garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and
the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very hot. Before
taking the rice out, remove the spices.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to stew the fowl without the rice; 1/2 hour with it.

_Average cost_, 4s. 3d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: SULTANS.]

    THE SERAI TA-OOK, OR FOWLS OF THE SULTAN.--This fowl is the size
    of our English Polands, and is the latest species introduced to
    England. They have a white and flowing plumage, a full-sized,
    compact Poland tuft on the head, are muffed, have a full flowing
    tail, short legs well feathered, and five toes upon each foot.
    Their comb consists merely of two little points, and their
    wattles are very small: their colour is that of a pure white. In
    January, 1854, they arrived in this country from Constantinople;
    and they take their name from _sarai_, the Turkish word for
    sultan's palace, and _ta-ook_, the Turkish for fowl. They are
    thus called the "fowls of the sultan," a name which has the
    twofold advantage of being the nearest to be found to that by
    which they have been known in their own country, and of
    designating the country whence they come. Their habits are
    described as being generally brisk and happy-tempered, but not
    so easily kept in as Cochin-Chinas. They are excellent layers;
    but they are non-sitters and small eaters: their eggs are large
    and white. Brahmas or Cochins will clear the crop of a grass-run
    long before they will, and, with scattered food, they soon
    satisfy themselves and walk away.

POULET AUX CRESSONS.

964. INGREDIENTS.--A fowl, a large bunch of water-cresses, 3
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/4 pint of gravy.

_Mode_.--Truss and roast a fowl by recipe No. 952, taking care that it
is nicely frothed and brown. Wash and dry the water-cresses, pick them
nicely, and arrange them in a flat layer on a dish. Sprinkle over a
little salt and the above proportion of vinegar; place over these the
fowl, and pour over it the gravy. A little gravy should be served in a
tureen. When not liked, the vinegar may be omitted.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size.

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

ROAST FOWL, Stuffed.

965. INGREDIENTS.--A large fowl, forcemeat No. 417, a little flour.

_Mode_.--Select a large plump fowl, fill the breast with forcemeat, made
by recipe No. 417, truss it firmly, the same as for a plain roast fowl,
dredge it with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Roast it for
nearly or quite an hour, should it be very large; remove the skewers,
and serve with a good brown gravy and a tureen of bread sauce.

_Time_.--Large fowl, nearly or quite 1 hour.

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring.

_Note_.--Sausage-meat stuffing may be substituted for the above: this is
now a very general mode of serving fowl.

[Illustration: PENCILLED HAMBURG.]

    PENCILLED HAMBURG.--This variety of the Hamburg fowl is of two
    colours, golden and silver, and is very minutely marked. The
    hens of both should have the body clearly pencilled across with
    several bars of black, and the hackle in both, sexes should be
    perfectly free from dark marks. The cocks do not exhibit the
    pencillings, but are white or brown in the golden or silver
    birds respectively. Their form is compact, and their attitudes
    graceful and sprightly. The hens do not sit, but lay extremely
    well; hence one of their common names, that of Dutch every-day
    layers. They are also known in different parts of the country,
    as Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals, Bolton bays and grays, and,
    in some parts of Yorkshire, by the wrong name of Corsican fowls.
    They are imported in large numbers from Holland, but those bred
    in this country are greatly superior in size.

GIBLET PIE.

966. INGREDIENTS.--A set of duck or goose giblets, 1 lb. of rump-steak,
1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, a bunch of savoury
herbs, plain crust.

_Mode_.--Clean, and put the giblets into a stewpan with an onion, whole
pepper, and a bunch of savoury herbs; add rather more than a pint of
water, and simmer gently for about 1-1/2 hour. Take them out, let them
cool, and cut them into pieces; line the bottom of a pie-dish with a few
pieces of rump-steak; add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of
steak; season with pepper and salt, and pour in the gravy (which should
be strained), that the giblets were stewed in; cover with a plain crust,
and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour in a brisk oven. Cover a piece
of paper over the pie, to prevent the crust taking too much colour.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to stew the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the pie.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the giblets, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

    THE BRENT GOOSE.--This is the smallest and most numerous species
    of the geese which visit the British islands. It makes its
    appearance in winter, and ranges over the whole of the coasts
    and estuaries frequented by other migrant geese. Mr. Selby
    states that a very large body of these birds annually resort to
    the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the
    mainland and Holy Island, on the Northumbrian coast, and which
    are covered by every flow of the tide. This part of the coast
    appears to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time
    immemorial, where they have always received the name of Ware
    geese, no doubt from their continually feeding on marine
    vegetables. Their flesh is very agreeable.

HASHED GOOSE.

967. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast goose, 2 onions, 2 oz. of
butter, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut up the goose into pieces of the size required; the inferior
joints, trimmings, &c., put into a stewpan to make the gravy; slice and
fry the onions in the butter of a very pale brown; add these to the
trimmings, and pour over about a pint of boiling water; stew these
gently for 3/4 hour, then skim and strain the liquor. Thicken it with
flour, and flavour with port wine and ketchup, in the above proportion;
add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and put in the pieces of goose; let
these get thoroughly hot through, but do not allow them to boil, and
serve with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--Altogether, rather more than 1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold goose, 4d.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

    THE WILD GOOSE.--This bird is sometimes called the "Gray-lag"
    and is the original of the domestic goose. It is, according to
    Pennant, the only species which the Britons could take young,
    and familiarize. "The Gray-lag," says Mr. Gould, "is known to
    Persia, and we believe it is generally dispersed over Asia
    Minor." It is the bird that saved the Capitol by its vigilance,
    and by the Romans was cherished accordingly.

ROAST GOOSE.

968. INGREDIENTS.--Goose, 4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of
bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Select a goose with a clean white skin, plump
breast, and yellow feet: if these latter are red, the bird is old.
Should the weather permit, let it hang for a few days: by so doing, the
flavour will be very much improved. Pluck, singe, draw, and carefully
wash and wipe the goose; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the
skin long enough to turn over; cut off the feet at the first joint, and
separate the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat with
a rolling-pin, put a skewer through the under part of each wing, and
having drawn up the legs closely, put a skewer into the middle of each,
and pass the same quite through the body. Insert another skewer into the
small of the leg, bring it close down to the side bone, run it through,
and do the same to the other side. Now cut off the end of the vent, and
make a hole in the skin sufficiently large for the passage of the rump,
in order to keep in the seasoning.

[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.]

_Mode_.--Make a sage-and-onion stuffing of the above ingredients, by
recipe No. 504; put it into the body of the goose, and secure it firmly
at both ends, by passing the rump through the hole made in the skin, and
the other end by tying the skin of the neck to the back; by this means
the seasoning will not escape. Put it down to a brisk fire, keep it well
basted, and roast from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to the size. Remove
the skewers, and serve with a tureen of good gravy, and one of well-made
apple-sauce. Should a very highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred, the
onions should not be parboiled, but minced raw: of the two methods, the
mild seasoning is far superior. A ragoût, or pie, should be made of the
giblets, or they may be stewed down to make gravy. Be careful to serve
the goose before the breast falls, or its appearance will be spoiled by
coming flattened to table. As this is rather a troublesome joint to
carve, a _large_ quantity of gravy should not be poured round the goose,
but sent in a tureen.

_Time_.--A large goose, 1-3/4 hour; a moderate-sized one, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2
hour.

_Seasonable_ from September to March; but in perfection from Michaelmas
to Christmas.

_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons.

_Note_.--A teaspoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, a few
grains of cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured
into the goose by a slit made in the apron. This sauce is, by many
persons, considered an improvement.

[Illustration: EMDEN GOOSE.]

    THE GOOSE.--This bird is pretty generally distributed over the
    face of the globe, being met with in North America, Lapland,
    Iceland, Arabia, and Persia. Its varieties are numerous; but in
    England there is only one species, which is supposed to be a
    native breed. The best geese are found on the borders of
    Suffolk, and in Norfolk and Berkshire; but the largest flocks
    are reared in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. They
    thrive best where they have an easy access to water, and large
    herds of them are sent every year to London, to be fattened by
    the metropolitan poulterers. "A Michaelmas goose," says Dr.
    Kitchener, "is as famous in the mouths of the million as the
    minced-pie at Christmas; yet for those who eat with delicacy, it
    is, at that time, too full-grown. The true period when the goose
    is in the highest perfection is when it has just acquired its
    full growth, and not begun to harden; if the March goose is
    insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank. The fine time is between
    both; from the second week in June to the first in September."
    It is said that the Michaelmas goose is indebted to Queen
    Elizabeth for its origin on the table at that season. Her
    majesty happened to dine on one at the table of an English
    baronet, when she received the news of the discomfiture of the
    Spanish Armada. In commemoration of this event, she commanded
    the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas.
    We here give an engraving of the Emden goose.

TO DRESS A GREEN GOOSE.

969. INGREDIENTS.--Goose, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Geese are called green till they are about four months old, and
should not be stuffed. After it has been singed and trussed, the same as
in the preceding recipe, put into the body a seasoning of pepper and
salt, and the butter to moisten it inside. Roast before a clear fire for
about 3/4 hour, froth and brown it nicely, and serve with a brown gravy,
and, when liked, gooseberry-sauce. This dish should be garnished with
water-cresses.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.

[Illustration: TOULOUSE GOOSE.]

    THE EGYPTIAN GOOSE.--Especial attention has been directed to
    this bird by Herodotus, who says it was held sacred by the
    ancient Egyptians, which has been partially confirmed by modern
    travellers. Mr. Salt remarks, "Horus Apollo says the old geese
    stay with their young in the most imminent danger, at the risk
    of their own lives, which I have myself frequently witnessed.
    Vielpanser is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this goose is
    represented on the walls of the temples in colours, the
    resemblance may be clearly traced." The goose is also said to
    have been a bird under the care of Isis. It has been placed by
    Mr. Gould amongst the birds of Europe; not from the number of
    half-reclaimed individuals which are annually shot in Britain,
    but from the circumstance of its occasionally visiting the
    southern parts of the continent from its native country, Africa.
    The Toulouse goose, of which we give an engraving, is a
    well-known bird.

ROAST GUINEA-FOWL, Larded.

970. INGREDIENTS.--A Guinea-fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt.

_Mode_.--When this bird is larded, it should be trussed the same as a
pheasant; if plainly roasted, truss it like a turkey. After larding and
trussing it, put it down to roast at a brisk fire; keep it well basted,
and a short time before serving, dredge it with a little flour, and let
it froth nicely. Serve with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of
the same, and one of well-made bread-sauce.

_Time_.--Guinea-fowl, larded, 1-1/4 hour; plainly roasted, about 1 hour.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Note_.--The breast, if larded, should be covered with a piece of paper,
and removed about 10 minutes before serving.

[Illustration: GUINEA-FOWLS.]

    THE GUINEA-FOWL.--The bird takes its name from Guinea, in
    Africa, where it is found--wild, and in great abundance. It is
    gregarious in its habits, associating in flocks of two or three
    hundred, delighting in marshy grounds, and at night perching
    upon trees, or on high situations. Its size is about the same as
    that of a common hen, but it stands higher on its legs. Though
    domesticated, it retains much of its wild nature, and is apt to
    wander. The hens lay abundantly, and the eggs are excellent. In
    their flesh, however, they are not so white as the common fowl,
    but more inclined to the colour of the pheasant, for which it
    frequently makes a good substitute at table. The flesh is both
    savoury and easy of digestion, and is in season when game is out
    of season.

LARK PIE (an Entree).

971. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of beef, the same of bacon, 9
larks, flour; for stuffing, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoonful
of minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 egg, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped shalot, 1/2 pint of weak stock
or water, puff-paste.

_Mode_.--Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, minced lemon-peel, parsley,
and the yolk of an egg, all of which should be well mixed together; roll
the larks in flour, and stuff them. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a
few slices of beef and bacon; over these place the larks, and season
with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and chopped shalot, in the above
proportion. Pour in the stock or water, cover with crust, and bake for
an hour in a moderate oven. During the time the pie is baking, shake it
2 or 3 times, to assist in thickening the gravy, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. a dozen.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--In full season in November.


ROAST LARKS.

972. INGREDIENTS.--Larks, egg and bread crumbs, fresh butter.

_Mode_.--These birds are by many persons esteemed a great delicacy, and
may be either roasted or broiled. Pick, gut, and clean them; when they
are trussed, brush them over with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle with
bread crumbs, and roast them before a quick fire; baste them continually
with fresh butter, and keep sprinkling with the bread crumbs until the
birds are well covered. Dish them on bread crumbs fried in clarified
butter, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Broiled larks are
also very excellent: they should be cooked over a clear fire, and would
take about 10 minutes or 1/4 hour.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to roast; 10 minutes to broil.

_Seasonable_.--In full season in November.

_Note_.--Larks may also be plainly roasted, without covering them with
egg and bread crumbs; they should be dished on fried crumbs.


BROILED PIGEONS.

973. INGREDIENTS.--Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Take care that the pigeons are quite fresh, and carefully
pluck, draw, and wash them; split the backs, rub the birds over with
butter, season them with pepper and salt, and broil them over a moderate
fire for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Serve very hot, with either
mushroom-sauce or a good gravy. Pigeons may also be plainly boiled, and
served with parsley and butter; they should be trussed like boiled
fowls, and take from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes to boil.

_Time_.--To broil a pigeon, from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes; to boil one,
the same time.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 9d. each.

_Seasonable_ from April to September, but in the greatest perfection
from midsummer to Michaelmas.

    THE POUTER PIGEON.--This is a very favourite pigeon, and,
    without doubt, the most curious of his species. He is a tail
    strong bird, as he had need be to carry about his great inflated
    crop, frequently as large and as round as a middling-sized
    turnip. A perfect pouter, seen on a windy day, is certainly a
    ludicrous sight: his feathered legs have the appearance of white
    trousers; his tapering tail looks like a swallow-tailed coat;
    his head is entirely concealed by his immense windy
    protuberance; and, altogether, he reminds you of a little
    "swell" of a past century, staggering under a bale of linen. The
    most common pouters are the blues, buffs, and whites, or an
    intermixture of all these various colours. The pouter is not a
    prolific breeder, is a bad nurse, and more likely to degenerate,
    if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with Irish stock, than
    any other pigeon: nevertheless, it is a useful bird to keep if
    you are founding a new colony, as it is much attached to its
    home, and little apt to stray; consequently it is calculated to
    induce more restless birds to fettle down and make themselves
    comfortable. If you wish to breed pouters, you cannot do worse
    than intrust them with the care of their own eggs.

ROAST PIGEONS.

974. INGREDIENTS.--Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Trussing_.--Pigeons, to be good, should be eaten fresh (if kept a
little, the flavour goes off), and they should be drawn as soon as
killed. Cut off the heads and necks, truss the wings over the backs, and
cut off the toes at the first joint: previous to trussing, they should
be carefully cleaned, as no bird requires so much washing.

[Illustration: ROAST PIGEON.]

_Mode_.--Wipe the birds very dry, season them inside with pepper and
salt, and put about 3/4 oz. of butter into the body of each: this makes
them moist. Put them down to a bright fire, and baste them well the
whole of the time they are cooking (they will be done enough in from 20
to 30 minutes); garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tureen of
parsley and butter. Bread-sauce and gravy, the same as for roast fowl,
are exceedingly nice accompaniments to roast pigeons, as also egg-sauce.

_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. to 9d. each.

_Seasonable_ from April to September; but in the greatest perfection
from Midsummer to Michaelmas.

    THE PIGEON--The pigeon tribe forms a connecting ling between the
    passerine birds and poultry. They are widely distributed over
    the world, some of the species being found even in the arctic
    regions. Their chief food is grain, and they drink much; not at
    intervals, like other birds, but by a continuous draught, like
    quadrupeds. The wild pigeon, or stockdove, is the parent whence
    all the varieties of the domestic pigeon are derived. In the
    wild state it is still found in many parts of this island,
    making its nest in the holes of rocks, in the hollows of trees,
    or in old towers, but never, like the ringdove, on branches. The
    blue house-pigeon is the variety principally reared for the
    table in this country, and is produced from our farmyards in
    great numbers. When young, and still fed by their parents, they
    are most preferable for the table, and are called _squabs_;
    under six months they are denominated _squeakers_, and at six
    months they begin to breed. Their flesh is accounted savoury,
    delicate, and stimulating, and the dark-coloured birds are
    considered to have the highest flavour, whilst the light are
    esteemed to have the more delicate flesh.

    THE PIGEON-HOUSE, OR DOVECOT.--The first thing to be done
    towards keeping pigeons is to provide a commodious place for
    their reception; and the next is, to provide the pigeons
    themselves. The situation or size of the dovecot will
    necessarily depend on convenience; but there is one point which
    must invariably be observed, and that is, that every pair of
    pigeons has two holes or rooms to nest in. This is
    indispensable, as, without it, there will be no security, but
    the constant prospect of confusion, breaking of eggs, and the
    destruction of young. The proper place for the pigeon-house is
    the poultry-yard; but it does very well near dwellings, stables,
    brewhouses, bakehouses, or such offices. Some persons keep
    pigeons in rooms, and have them making their nests on the floor.
    The object is to escape the danger of the young falling out; but
    in such cases, there is a great risk of rats or other vermin
    getting at the pigeons.

    ASPECT OF THE PIGEON-HOUSE.--The front of the pigeon-house
    should have a southwest aspect, and, if a room be selected for
    the purpose, it is usual to break a hole in the roof of the
    building for the passage of the pigeons, but which can be closed
    at convenience. A platform ought to be laid at the entrance for
    the pigeons to perch upon, with some kind of defence against
    strange cats, which will frequently depopulate a whole dovecot.
    Yet, although cats are dangerous neighbours for the birds, they
    are necessary to defend them from the approach of rats and mice,
    which will not only suck the eggs, but destroy the birds. The
    platform should be painted white, and renewed as the paint wears
    off, white being a favourite colour with pigeons, and also most
    conspicuous as a mark to enable them to find their house. The
    boxes ought also to be similarly painted, and renewed when
    necessary, for which purpose lime and water will do very well.

    THE NECESSITY OF CLEANLINESS.--As cleanliness in human
    habitations is of the first importance, so is it in the
    pigeon-house. There the want of it will soon render the place a
    nuisance not to be approached, and the birds, both young and
    old, will be so covered with vermin and filth, that they will
    neither enjoy health nor comforts, whilst early mortality
    amongst them will be almost certain. In some cases, the
    pigeon-house is cleaned daily; but it should always be done, at
    any rate, once a week, and the floor covered with sifted gravel,
    frequently renewed. Pigeons being exceedingly fond of water, and
    having a prescience of the coming of rain, they may be seen upon
    the house-tops waiting upon it until late in the evening, and
    then spreading their wings to receive the luxury of the
    refreshing shower. When they are confined in a room, therefore,
    they should be allowed a wide pan of water, to be often renewed.
    This serves them for a bath, which cools, refreshes, and assists
    them to keep their bodies clear of vermin.

    BREEDING PIGEONS.--In breeding pigeons, it is necessary to match
    a cock and hen, and shut them up together, or place them near to
    each other, and in the course of a day or two there is little
    doubt of their mating. Various rules have been laid down for the
    purpose of assisting to distinguish the cock from the hen
    pigeon; but the masculine forwardness and action of the cock is
    generally so remarkable, that he is easily ascertained. The
    pigeon being monogamous, the male attaches and confines himself
    to one female, and the attachment is reciprocal, and the
    fidelity of the dove to its mate is proverbial. At the age of
    six months, young pigeons are termed squeakers, and then begin
    to breed, when properly managed. Their courtship, and the
    well-known tone of voice in the cock, just then acquired and
    commencing, are indications of their approaching union.
    Nestlings, while fed by cock and hen, are termed squabs, and
    are, at that age, sold and used for the table. The dove-house
    pigeon is said to breed monthly, when well supplied with food.
    At all events, it may be depended on, that pigeons of almost any
    healthy and well-established variety will breed eight or nine
    times in the year; whence it may readily be conceived how vast
    are the numbers that may be raised.

[Illustration: CARRIER PIGEONS.]

    THE CARRIER PIGEON.--Without doubt the carrier is entitled to
    rank first in the pigeon family, with the exception, perhaps, of
    the blue-rock pigeons. No domestic fowl can be traced to so
    remote an antiquity. When Greece was in its glory, carrier
    pigeons were used to convey to distant parts the names of the
    victors at the Olympian games. During the holy war, when Acre
    was besieged by King Richard, Saladin habitually corresponded
    with the besieged by means of carrier pigeons. A shaft from an
    English crossbow, however, happened to bring one of those
    feathered messengers to the ground, and the stratagem was
    discovered, the design of the Saracens revealed, and so turned
    against the designers, that Acre was in the hands of the
    Christians before the wily Saladin dreamt of such a thing.

PIGEON PIE (Epsom Grand-Stand Recipe).

975. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak, 2 or 3 pigeons, 3 slices of
ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, puff crust.

_Mode_.--Cut the steak into pieces about 3 inches square, and with it
line the bottom of a pie-dish, seasoning it well with pepper and salt.
Clean the pigeons, rub them with pepper and salt inside and out, and put
into the body of each rather more than 1/2 oz. of butter; lay them on
the steak, and a piece of ham on each pigeon. Add the yolks of 4 eggs,
and half fill the dish with stock; place a border of puff paste round
the edge of the dish, put on the cover, and ornament it in any way that
may be preferred. Clean three of the feet, and place them in a hole made
in the crust at the top: this shows what kind of pie it is. Glaze the
crust,--that is to say, brush it over with the yolk of an egg,--and bake
it in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/4 hour. When liked, a seasoning
of pounded mace may be added.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour, or rather less. _Average cost_, 5s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: TUMBLER PIGEONS.]

    TUMBLER PIGEONS.--The smaller the size of this variety, the
    greater its value. The head should be round and smooth, the neck
    thin, and the tail similar to that of the turbit. Highly-bred
    birds of this variety will attain an elevation in their flight
    beyond that of any other pigeons; and it is in seeing these
    little birds wing themselves so far into the skies that the
    fanciers take such delight. For four or five hours tumblers have
    been known to keep on the wing; and it is when they are almost
    lost to the power of human vision that they exhibit those
    pantomimic feats which give them their name, and which are
    marked by a tumbling over-and-over process, which suggests the
    idea of their having suddenly become giddy, been deprived of
    their self-control, or overtaken by some calamity. This
    acrobatic propensity in these pigeons has been ascribed by some
    to the absence of a proper power in the tail; but is nothing
    more than a natural habit, for which no adequate reason can be
    assigned. Of this variety, the Almond Tumbler is the most
    beautiful; and the greater the variation of the colour in the
    flight and tail, the greater their value.

[Illustration: RUNT PIGEONS.]

    THE RUNT PIGEON.--This is generally esteemed among the largest
    of the pigeon varieties, and being possessed of proportionate
    strength, with a strong propensity to exercise it, they keep the
    dovecot in a state of almost continual commotion by domineering
    over the weaker inmates. They breed tolerably well, however, and
    are valuable for the table. There is both the Leghorn and the
    Spanish Runt, variously plumaged; but when red, white, or black
    mottled, are most highly esteemed. One of the great advantages
    connected with the Runt is, that he is not likely to fly away
    from home. Being heavy birds, they find it difficult, when well
    fed, to mount even to a low housetop. Again, they require no
    loft, or special dwelling-place, but, if properly tended, will
    be perfectly satisfied, and thrive as well, in a rabbit-hutch as
    any where. Their flavour is very good; and it is not an uncommon
    thing for a squeaker Runt to exceed a pound and a quarter in
    weight.

[Illustration: NUN PIGEONS.]

    THE NUN PIGEON.--The Tumbler bears a strong resemblance to this
    variety, which is characterized by a tuft of feathers rising
    from the back of the head, and which, on the whole, is an
    extremely pretty little bird. According to the colour of the
    head, it is called the red, black, or yellow-headed Nun. To be a
    perfect bird, it should have a small head and beak; and the
    larger the tuft at the back of his head, the handsomer the bird
    is esteemed, and proportionately valuable in the eyes of
    pigeon-fanciers.

[Illustration: TRUMPETER PIGEONS.]

    THE TRUMPETER PIGEON.--From the circumstance of this bird
    imitating the sound of a trumpet, instead of cooing, like other
    pigeons, it has received its designation. It is of the middle
    size, having its legs and feet covered with feathers, and its
    plumage generally of a mottled black-and-white. It has a tuft
    springing from the root of its beak, and the larger this topknot
    is, the higher the estimation in which the breed is held. In
    their powers of trumpeting some are more expert than others; and
    whether this has any effect in influencing their own estimate of
    themselves, we cannot say; but they are rather select in the
    choice of their company. If two of them are put in a
    pigeon-house with other doves, it will be found that they
    confine their association almost entirely to each other. As much
    as two guineas have been paid for a well-trained docile bird of
    this kind.

[Illustration: WOOD-PIGEON.]

    THE WOOD, OR WILD PIGEON.--Buffon enumerates upwards of thirty
    varieties of the pigeon, which he derives from one root,--viz.
    the stockdove, or common wild pigeon. All the varieties of
    colour and form which we witness, he attributes to human
    contrivance and fancy. Nevertheless, there exist essentially
    specific differences in these birds, which would appear to be
    attributable rather to the nature of the region, soil, and
    climate to which they are indigenous, than to the art and
    ingenuity of man. The stockdove, in its wild state, is still
    found in some parts of Britain, forming its nest in the holes of
    rocks, old towers, and in the hollows of trees; it never,
    however, like the ringdove, nestles in the branches. Multitudes
    of wild pigeons still visit our shores in the winter, coming
    from their more northerly retreats, making their appearance
    about November, and retiring again in the spring. When forests
    of beechwood covered large tracts of the ground of this country,
    these birds used to haunt them in myriads, frequently covering a
    mile of ground in extent when they went out in the morning to
    feed.

STEWED PIGEONS.

976. INGREDIENTS.--6 pigeons, a few slices of bacon, 3 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, sufficient stock No. 104 to cover the
pigeons, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine.

_Mode_.--Empty and clean the pigeons thoroughly, mince the livers, add
to these the parsley and butter, and put it into the insides of the
birds. Truss them with the legs inward, and put them into a stewpan,
with a few slices of bacon placed under and over them; add the stock,
and stew gently for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish the pigeons, strain
the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and port
wine, give one boil, pour over the pigeons, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. to 9d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from April to September.

[Illustration: FANTAIL PIGEONS.]

    THE FANTAIL PIGEON.--This curious variety is inferior in point
    of size to most of the other varieties, and is characterized by
    having a short, slender bill, pendent wings, and naked legs and
    feet. It has the power of erecting its tail in the manner of a
    turkey-cock; during which action, especially when paying court
    to it's mate, it trembles or shakes, like the peacock when
    moving about with his train expanded and in full display. This
    power of erecting and spreading the tail is not confined to the
    male bird alone: the female possesses the same power to an equal
    extent, and otherwise resembles the male in every respect. It is
    not very prolific, and seldom succeeds so well in the aviary or
    pigeon-house as most of the other kinds.

[Illustration: JACOBIN PIGEONS.]

    THE JACOBIN PIGEON.--This variety, having the power to transmit
    to posterity a form precisely similar, with all its peculiar
    characters undiminished, is, among pigeon-fanciers, designated
    as of a pure or permanent race. It is distinguished by a
    remarkable ruff or frill of raised feathers, which, commencing
    behind the head and proceeding down the neck and breast, forms a
    kind of hood, not unlike that worn by a monk. From this
    circumstance, it has obtained its Gallic name of _nonnain
    capuchin_. In size it is one of the smallest of the domestic
    pigeons, and its form is light and elegant. It is a very
    productive species, and, having its flight considerably impeded
    by the size and form of its hooded frill, keeps much at home,
    and is well adapted for the aviary or other buildings where
    pigeons are confined.

[Illustration: TURBIT PIGEONS.]

    THE TURBIT PIGEON.--This variety bears a strong resemblance to
    the Jacobin, having a kind of frill in the fore part of its
    neck, occasioned by the breast-feathers lying contrariwise and
    standing straight out. The species is classed in accordance with
    the colour of the shoulders, similarly as the Nuns are by the
    colour of their heads. Their characteristics of excellence are a
    full frill, short bill, and small round head. In Germany it is
    called the ruffle pigeon, in allusion to the feathers on its
    breast; and it has rarely any feathers on its feet. There is a
    peculiarity connected with this bird, which somewhat lowers it
    in the estimation of fanciers: it seldom rears more than one at
    a time, which, therefore, marks it as a bird rather for
    amusement than profit.

[Illustration: BARB PIGEONS.]

    THE BARB PIGEON.--The name of this variety is a contraction of
    Barbary, from which country it originally comes. It is both
    prolific and has excellent qualities as a nurse. The kind most
    esteemed is that of one uniform colour, that of blue-black being
    preferable to any other. Speckled or mottled Barbs are esteemed
    the most common of all pigeons. It is not unlike the Carrier
    pigeon, and, at a small distance, might easily be mistaken for
    the latter. It has a short beak and a small wattle. A spongy,
    pinky skin round the eyes is its chief characteristic, however,
    and this increases in size till the bird is three or four years
    old. This peculiarity is hardly distinguishable in very young
    birds.

[Illustration: BLUE ROCK-PIGEON.]

    THE ROCK PIGEON.--This variety, in its wild state, is found upon
    the rocky parts of the west of Scotland, and the bold shores of
    the Western Isles, more abundant than in any other parts of the
    British islands. As the shores of the mainland are exposed to
    the muds of the Atlantic, and the comparatively small islands
    are surrounded by that ocean, the low grounds exposed to the
    west are seldom covered with snow for any length of time, and
    thus the birds easily find a supply of food. The numbers which
    there congregate are often very great, and the din of their
    united cry is sometimes very loud and even alarming. The love of
    home and the certainty of returning to it is very conspicuous in
    the rock-pigeon or _biset_, as it is called by the French.
    Flocks from different parts of the coasts often meet on the
    feeding-grounds; but when the time of returning to rest comes
    round, each one keeps to its own party.

    [Illustration: OWL PIGEONS.]

    THE OWL PIGEON.--This pigeon does not seem to be so well known
    as it formerly was, if we may judge from the fact that few
    modern writers mention it. Like the Turbit pigeon, the Owl has a
    remarkable tuft of feathers on the breast, it having been
    compared by some to the frill of a shirt, and by others to a
    full-blown white rose. In size, it is not quite so large a
    pigeon as the Jacobin. It is said to be preferred in France,
    above other varieties, as a bird to rear and kill for the table.
    In England it is very far from being common; indeed, we have
    applied to several keepers of pigeons, who have fancied
    themselves acquainted with all the varieties of this bird, and
    they have been able to tell us nothing of it. Mr. Harrison Weir,
    our artist, however, has made his portrait from the life.


BOILED RABBIT.

[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.]

977. INGREDIENTS.--Rabbit; water.

_Mode_.--For boiling, choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws, as
that denotes they are young: should these be blunt and rugged, the ears
dry and tough, the animal is old. After emptying and skinning it, wash
it well in cold water, and let it soak for about 1/4 hour in warm water,
to draw out the blood. Bring the head round to the side, and fasten it
there by means of a skewer run through that and the body. Put the rabbit
into sufficient hot water to cover it, let it boil very gently until
tender, which will be in from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to its size and
age. Dish it, and smother it either with onion, mushroom, or liver
sauce, or parsley-and-butter; the former is, however, generally
preferred to any of the last-named sauces. When liver-sauce is
preferred, the liver should be boiled for a few minutes, and minced very
finely, or rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce.

_Time_.--A very young rabbit, 1/2 hour; a large one, 3/4 hour; an old
one, 1 hour or longer.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

    THE RABBIT.--Though this animal is an inhabitant of most
    temperate climates, it does not reach so far north as the hare.
    The wild rabbit is a native of Great Britain, and is found in
    large numbers in the sandy districts of Norfolk and
    Cambridgeshire. Its flesh is, by some, considered to have a
    higher flavour than that of the tame rabbit, although it is
    neither so white nor so delicate. The animal, however, becomes
    larger and fatter in the tame than in the wild state; but it is
    not desirable to have it so fat as it can be made.

CURRIED RABBIT.

978. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 pint of stock
No. 104, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1
teaspoonful of mushroom powder, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of rice.

_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it neatly
into joints. Put it into a stewpan with the butter and sliced onions,
and let them acquire a nice brown colour, but do not allow them to
blacken. Pour in the stock, which should be boiling; mix the curry
powder and flour smoothly with a little water, add it to the stock, with
the mushroom powder, and simmer gently for rather more than 1/2 hour;
squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve in the centre of a dish, with an
edging of boiled rice all round. Where economy is studied, water may be
substituted for the stock; in this case, the meat and onions must be
very nicely browned. A little sour apple and rasped cocoa-nut stewed
with the curry will be found a great improvement.

_Time_.--Altogether 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

[Illustration: WILD RABBITS.]

    THE COMMON OR WILD RABBIT.--Warrens, or inclosures, are
    frequently made in favourable localities, and some of them are
    so large as to comprise 2,000 acres. The common wild rabbit is
    of a grey colour, and is esteemed the best for the purposes of
    food. Its skin is valuable as an article of commerce, being used
    for the making of hats. Another variety of the rabbit, however,
    called the "silver-grey," has been lately introduced to this
    country, and is still more valuable. Its colour is a black
    ground, thickly interspersed with grey hairs; and its powers as
    a destroyer and consumer of vegetable food are well known to be
    enormous, especially by those who have gardens in the vicinity
    of a rabbit-warren.

FRIED RABBIT.

979. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, flour, dripping, 1 oz. of butter, 1
teaspoonful of minced shalot, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut the rabbit into neat joints, and flour them well; make the
dripping boiling in a fryingpan, put in the rabbit, and fry it a nice
brown. Have ready a very hot dish, put in the butter, shalot, and
ketchup; arrange the rabbit pyramidically on this, and serve as quickly
as possible.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

_Note_.--The rabbit may be brushed over with egg, and sprinkled with
bread crumbs, and fried as above. When cooked in this manner, make a
gravy in the pan by recipe No. 866, and pour it round, but not over, the
pieces of rabbit.

    VARIETIES IN RABBITS.--Almost everybody knows that a rabbit is a
    furry animal, that lives on plants, and burrows in the ground;
    that it has its varieties as well as other animals, and that it
    is frequently an especial favourite with boys. Among its
    varieties, the short-legged, with width and substance of loin,
    is the most hardy, and fattens the most expeditiously. It has,
    besides, the soundest liver, rabbits generally being subject to
    defects of that part. It is also the smallest variety. There is
    a very large species of the hare-colour, having much bone,
    length and depth of carcase, large and long ears, with full
    eyes, resembling those of the hare: it might readily be taken
    for a hybrid or mule, but for the objection to its breeding. Its
    flesh is high-coloured, substantial, and more savoury than that
    of the common rabbit; and, cooked like the hare, it makes a good
    dish. The large white, and yellow and white species, have whiter
    and more delicate flesh, and, cooked in the same way, will rival
    the turkey. Rabbits are divided into four kinds, distinguished
    as warreners, parkers, hedgehogs, and sweethearts. The warrener,
    as his name implies, is a member of a subterranean community,
    and is less effeminate than his kindred who dwell _upon_ the
    earth and have "the world at their will," and his fur is the
    most esteemed. After him, comes the parker, whose favourite
    resort is a gentleman's pleasure-ground, where he usually breeds
    in great numbers, and from which he frequently drives away the
    hares. The hedgehog is a sort of vagabond rabbit, that, tinker
    like, roams about the country, and would have a much better coat
    on his back if he was more settled in his habits, and remained
    more at home. The sweetheart is a tame rabbit, with its fur so
    sleek, soft, and silky, that it is also used to some extent in
    the important branch of hat-making.

RABBIT A LA MINUTE.

980. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 3 dried mushrooms, 2 tablespoonfuls of
minced parsley, 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 2 glasses of sherry, 1 pint of
water.

_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it into
joints. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pieces of rabbit; add
salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and let it cook until three parts done;
then put in the remaining ingredients, and boil for about 10 minutes: it
will then be ready to serve. Fowls or hare may be dressed in the same
manner.

_Time_.--Altogether, 35 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d.
each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.


RABBIT PIE.

981. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, a few slices of ham, salt and white pepper
to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, a
few forcemeat balls, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of gravy, puff crust.

_Mode_.--Cut up the rabbit (which should be young), remove the
breastbone, and bone the legs. Put the rabbit, slices of ham, forcemeat
balls, and hard eggs, by turns, in layers, and season each layer with
pepper, salt, pounded mace, and grated nutmeg. Pour in about 1/2 pint of
water, cover with crust, and bake in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/2
hour. Should the crust acquire too much colour, place a piece of paper
over it to prevent its burning. When done, pour in at the top, by means
of the hole in the middle of the crust, a little good gravy, which may
be made of the breast- and leg-bones of the rabbit and 2 or 3
shank-bones, flavoured with onion, herbs, and spices.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

Note.--The liver of the rabbit may be boiled, minced, and mixed with the
forcemeat balls, when the flavour is liked.

    FECUNDITY OF THE RABBIT.--The fruitfulness of this animal has
    been the subject of wonder to all naturalists. It breeds seven
    times in the year, and generally begets seven or eight young
    ones at a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a
    period of four years, the progeny that would spring from a
    single pair would amount to more than a million. As the rabbit,
    however, has many enemies, it can never be permitted to increase
    in numbers to such an extent as to prove injurious to mankind;
    for it not only furnishes man with an article of food, but is,
    by carnivorous animals of every description, mercilessly
    sacrificed. Notwithstanding this, however, in the time of the
    Roman power, they once infested the Balearic islands to such an
    extent, that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the
    assistance of a military force from Augustus to exterminate
    them.

RAGOUT OF RABBIT OR HARE.

982. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 3 sliced onions, 2
oz. of butter, a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and salt to taste, 2
slices of lemon, 1 bay-leaf, 1 glass of port wine.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions, and put them into a stewpan with the flour
and butter; place the pan near the fire, stir well as the butter melts,
till the onions become a rich brown colour, and add, by degrees, a
little water or gravy till the mixture is of the consistency of cream.
Cut some thin slices of bacon; lay in these with the rabbit, cut into
neat joints; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, the lemon and bay-leaf,
and let the whole simmer until tender. Pour in the port wine, give one
boil, and serve.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to simmer the rabbit.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5
persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

    THE RABBIT-HOUSE.--Rabbit-keeping is generally practised by a
    few individuals in almost every town, and by a few in almost
    every part of the country. Forty years ago, there were in the
    metropolis one or two considerable feeders, who, according to
    report, kept from 1,600 to 2,000 breeding does. These large
    establishments, however, have ceased to exist, and London
    receives the supply of tame as well as wild rabbits chiefly from
    the country. Where they are kept, however, the rabbit-house
    should be placed upon a dry foundation, and be well ventilated.
    Exposure to rain, whether externally or internally, is fatal to
    rabbits, which, like sheep, are liable to the rot, springing
    from the same causes. Thorough ventilation and good air are
    indispensable where many rabbits are kept, or they will neither
    prosper nor remain healthy for any length of time. A thorough
    draught or passage for the air is, therefore, absolutely
    necessary, and should be so contrived as to be checked in cold
    or wet weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or
    windows.

ROAST OR BAKED RABBIT.

983. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, forcemeat No. 417, buttered paper,
sausage-meat.

[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.]

_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and thoroughly wash the rabbit; wipe it dry, line
the inside with sausage-meat and forcemeat made by recipe No. 417, and
to which has been added the minced liver. Sew the stuffing inside,
skewer back the head between the shoulders, cut off the fore-joints of
the shoulders and legs, bring: them close to the body, and secure them
by means of a skewer. Wrap the rabbit in buttered paper, and put it down
to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before it
is done remove the paper, flour and froth it, and let it acquire a nice
brown colour. Take out the skewers, and serve with brown gravy and
red-currant jelly. To bake the rabbit, proceed in the same manner as
above; in a good oven, it will take about the same time as roasting.

_Time_.--A young rabbit, 35 minutes; a large one, about 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

    THE HUTCH.--Hutches are generally placed one above another to
    the height required by the number of rabbits and the extent of
    the room. Where a large stock is kept, to make the most of room,
    the hutches may be placed in rows, with a sufficient interval
    between for feeding and cleaning, instead of being, in the usual
    way, joined to the wall. It is preferable to rest the hutches
    upon stands, about a foot above the ground, for the convenience
    of cleaning under them. Each of the hutches intended for
    breeding should have two rooms,--a feeding and a bed-room. Those
    are single for the use of the weaned rabbits, or for the bucks,
    which are always kept separate. The floors should be planed
    smooth, that wet may run off, and a common hoe, with a short
    handle, and a short broom, are most convenient implements for
    cleaning these houses.

STEWED RABBIT.

984. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 small
teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, thickening of
butter and flour, 1 large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut the rabbit into small joints; put them into a stewpan, add
the onions sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. Pour in sufficient
water to cover the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly done, drop in a
few forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver, finely chopped.
Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the ketchup, give one
boil, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

[Illustration: LOP-EARED RABBIT.]

    FANCY RABBITS.--The graceful fall of the ears is the first thing
    that is looked to by the fancier; next, the dewlap, if the
    animal is in its prime; then the colours and marked points, and,
    lastly, the shape and general appearance. The ears of a fine
    rabbit should extend not less than seven inches, measured from
    tip to tip in a line across the skull; but even should they
    exceed this length, they are admitted with reluctance into a
    fancy stock, unless they have a uniform and graceful droop. The
    dewlap, which is a fold of skin under the neck and throat, is
    only seen in fancy rabbits, after they have attained their full
    growth: it commences immediately under the jaw, and adds greatly
    to the beauty of their appearance. It goes down the throat and
    between the fore legs, and is so broad that it projects beyond
    the chin.

    The difference between the fancy and common rabbit in the back,
    independent of the ears, is sufficient to strike the common
    observer. Fancy rabbits fetch a very high price; so much as five
    and ten guineas, and even more, is sometimes given for a
    first-rate doe. If young ones are first procured from a good
    family, the foundation of an excellent stock can be procured for
    a much smaller sum. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping
    down, slope backwards: a rabbit with this characteristic is
    scarcely admitted into a fancy lot, and is not considered worth
    more than the common variety. The next position is when one ear
    lops outwards, and the other stands erect: rabbits of this kind
    possess but little value, however fine the shape and beautiful
    the colour, although they sometimes breed as good specimens as
    finer ones.

    The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the
    half-lop: the ears, in this case, slope forward and down over
    the forehead. Rabbits with this peculiarity are often perfect in
    other respects, with the exception of the droop of the ears, and
    often become the parents of perfect young ones: does of this
    kind often have the power of lifting an ear erect. In the
    ear-lop, the ears spread out in an horizontal position, like the
    wings of a bird in flight, or the arms of a man swimming. A
    great many excellent does have this characteristic, and some of
    the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely so. Sometimes a
    rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so neatly
    horizontally as to constitute an ear-lop: this is superior to
    all others, except the perfect fall, which is so rarely to be
    met with, that those which are merely ear-lopped are considered
    as valuable rabbits, if well bred and with other good qualities.

    "The real lop has ears that hang down by the side of the cheek,
    slanting somewhat outward in their descent, with the open part
    of the ear inward, and sometimes either backwards or forwards
    instead of perpendicular: when the animals stand in an easy
    position, the tips of the ears touch the ground. The hollows of
    the ears, in a fancy rabbit of a first-rate kind, should be
    turned so completely backwards that only the outer part of them
    should remain in front: they should match exactly in their
    descent, and should slant outwards as little as possible."

    The same authority asserts that perfect lops are so rare, that a
    breeder possessing twenty of the handsomest and most perfect
    does would consider himself lucky if, in the course of a year,
    he managed to raise twelve full-lopped rabbits out of them all.
    As regards variety and purity of colour an experienced breeder
    says:--

    "The fur of fancy rabbits may be blue, or rather lead-colour,
    and white, or black and white, or tawny and white, that is,
    tortoiseshell-coloured. But it is not of so much importance what
    colours the coat of a rabbit displays, as it is that those
    colours shall be arranged in a particular manner, forming
    imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects.
    Hence the peculiarities of their markings have been denoted by
    distinctive designations. What is termed 'the blue butterfly
    smut' was, for some time, considered the most valuable of fancy
    rabbits. It is thus named on account of having bluish or
    lead-coloured spots on either side of the nose, having some
    resemblance to the spread wings of a butterfly, what may be
    termed the groundwork of the rabbit's face being white. A black
    and white rabbit may also have the face marked in a similar
    manner, constituting a 'black butterfly smut.'

    "But A good fancy rabbit must likewise have other marks, without
    which it cannot be considered a perfect model of its kind. There
    should be a black or blue patch on its back, called the saddle;
    the tail must be of the same colour with the back and snout;
    while the legs should be all white; and there ought to be dark
    stripes on both sides of the body in front, passing backwards to
    meet the saddle, and uniting on the top of the shoulders at the
    part called the withers in a horse. These stripes form what is
    termed the 'chain' having somewhat the appearance of a chain or
    collar hanging round the neck."

    "Among thorough-bred fancy rabbits, perhaps not one in a hundred
    will have all these markings clearly and exactly displayed on
    the coat; but the more nearly the figures on the coat of a
    rabbit approach to the pattern described, the greater will be
    its value, so far, at least, as relates to colour. The beauty
    and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit, however, depends a good
    deal on its shape, or what is styled its carriage. A rabbit is
    said to have a good carriage when its back is finely arched,
    rising full two inches above the top of its head, which must be
    held so low as for the muzzle and the points of the ears to
    reach almost to the ground."

STEWED RABBIT, Larded.

985. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, a few strips of bacon, rather more than 1
pint of good broth or stock, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper
to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of sherry.

_Mode_.--Well wash the rabbit, cut it into quarters, lard them with
Blips of bacon, and fry them; then put them into a stewpan with the
broth, herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; simmer gently until
the rabbit is tender, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and
flour, add the sherry, give one boil, pour it over the rabbit, and
serve. Garnish with slices of cut lemon.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

[Illustration: THE HARE-RABBIT.]

    THE HARE-RABBIT.--There has been lately introduced to French
    tables an animal called the "Hare-rabbit," partaking of the
    nature, characteristics, and qualifications of both the hare and
    the rabbit. It is highly spoken of, both as regards flesh and
    flavour; and it is said to be the only hybrid which is able to
    perpetuate its race. We hope that some enterprising individual
    will soon secure for English, tables what would seem to be a
    really valuable addition to our other game and poultry dishes;
    although it will be rather difficult to exactly assign its
    proper position, as within or without the meaning of "game," as
    by law established. Only a few specimens have been seen in
    England at present, but there is no reason to doubt that our
    rabbit-fanciers will prove equal to the occasion, and cope
    successfully with our neighbours across the Channel in
    introducing a new animal serviceable in the kitchen.

[Illustration: ANGORA RABBIT.]

    THE ANGORA RABBIT.--This is one of the handsomest of all
    rabbits. It takes its name from being an inhabitant of Angora, a
    city and district of Asia Minor. Like the well-known Angora goat
    and cat, both of which are valuable on account of the fineness
    of their wool and fur, this rabbit is prized for its long,
    waved, silky fur, which, as an article of commerce is highly
    esteemed. We are not aware whether it is eaten by the
    inhabitants, and but few specimens have been introduced into
    England, where, doubtless, the beauty of its coat would
    materially suffer from the more humid and less genial character
    of the climate. To the rabbits of the ancient and mountainous
    district of Angora the words of the wise man would seem most to
    apply, "The conies are but feeble folk, yet make they their
    houses in the rocks."

[Illustration: HIMALAYA RABBITS.]

    THE HIMALAYA RABBIT.--Amidst the mighty Himalaya mountains,
    whose peaks are the highest on the globe, the pretty rabbit here
    portrayed is found; and his colour seems to be like the snow,
    which, above the altitude of from 13,000 to 16,000 feet,
    perpetually crowns the summits of these monarchs of the world.
    It is, at present, a very rare animal in England, but will,
    doubtless, be more extensively known in the course of a few
    years. From the earth-tunnelling powers of this little animal,
    Martial declares that mankind learned the art of fortification,
    mining, and covered roads.

BOILED TURKEY.

986. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey; forcemeat No. 417.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Hen turkeys are preferable for boiling, on
account of their whiteness and tenderness, and one of moderate size
should be selected, as a large one is not suitable for this mode of
cooking. They should not be dressed until they have been killed 3 or 4
days, as they will neither look white, nor will they be tender. Pluck
the bird, carefully draw, and singe it with a piece of white paper, wash
it inside and out, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth. Cut off the
head and neck, draw the strings or sinews of the thighs, and cut off the
legs at the first joint; draw the legs into the body, fill the breast
with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; run a skewer through the wing and
the middle joint of the leg, quite into the leg and wing on the opposite
side; break the breastbone, and make the bird look as round and as
compact as possible.

[Illustration: BOILED TURKEY.]

_Mode_.--Put the turkey into sufficient _hot_ water to cover it; let it
come to a boil, then carefully remove all the scum: if this is attended
to, there is no occasion to boil the bird in a floured cloth; but it
should be well covered with the water. Let it simmer very gently for
about 1-1/2 hour to 1-3/4 hour, according to the size, and serve with
either white, celery, oyster, or mushroom sauce, or parsley-and-butter,
a little of which should be poured over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon,
tongue, or pickled pork, should always accompany this dish; and when
oyster sauce is served, the turkey should be stuffed with oyster
forcemeat.

_Time_.--A small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 1-3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. each, but more expensive at
Christmas, on account of the great demand.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

    THE TURKEY.--The turkey, for which fine bird we are indebted to
    America, is certainly one of the most glorious presents made by
    the New World to the Old. Some, indeed, assert that this bird
    was known to the ancients, and that it was served at the
    wedding-feast of Charlemagne. This opinion, however, has been
    controverted by first-rate authorities, who declare that the
    French name of the bird, _dindon_, proves its origin; that the
    form of the bird is altogether foreign, and that it is found in
    America alone in a wild state. There is but little doubt, from
    the information which has been gained at considerable trouble,
    that it appeared, generally, in Europe about the end of the 17th
    century; that it was first imported into France by Jesuits, who
    had been sent out missionaries to the West; and that from France
    it spread over Europe. To this day, in many localities in
    France, a turkey is called a Jesuit. On the farms of N. America,
    where turkeys are very common, they are raised either from eggs
    which have been found, or from young ones caught in the woods:
    they thus preserve almost entirely their original plumage. The
    turkey only became gradually acclimated, both on the continent
    and in England: in the middle of the 18th century, scarcely 10
    out of 20 young turkeys lived; now, generally speaking, 15 out
    of the same number arrive at maturity.

CROQUETTES OF TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).

987. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turkey; to every 1/2 lb. of meat
allow 2 oz. of ham or bacon, 2 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful
of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, egg and bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--The smaller pieces, that will not do for a fricassée or hash,
answer very well for this dish. Mince the meat finely with ham or bacon
in the above proportion; make a gravy of the bones and trimmings, well
seasoning it; mince the shalots, put them into a stewpan with the
butter, add the flour; mix well, then put in the mince, and about 1/2
pint of the gravy made from the bones. (The proportion of the butter
must be increased or diminished according to the quantity of mince.)
When just boiled, add the yolks of 2 eggs; put the mixture out to cool,
and then shape it in a wineglass. Cover the croquettes with egg and
bread crumbs, and fry them a delicate brown. Put small pieces of
parsley-stems for stalks, and serve with, rolled bacon cut very thin.

_Time_.--8 minutes to fry the croquettes.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

    THE WILD TURKEY.--In its wild state, the turkey is gregarious,
    going together in extensive flocks, numbering as many as five
    hundred. These frequent the great swamps of America, where they
    roost; but, at sunrise, leave these situations to repair to the
    dry woods, in search of berries and acorns. They perch on the
    boughs of trees, and, by rising from branch to branch, attain
    the height they desire. They usually mount to the highest tops,
    apparently from an instinctive conception that the loftier they
    are the further they are out of danger. They fly awkwardly, but
    run with great swiftness, and, about the month of March become
    so fat as not to be able to take a flight beyond three or four
    hundred yards, and are then, also, easily run down by a
    horseman. Now, however, it rarely happens that wild turkeys are
    seen in the inhabited parts of America. It is only in the
    distant and more unfrequented parts that they are found in great
    numbers.

FRICASSEED TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).

988. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey; a strip
of lemon-peel, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an egg.

_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from the remains of a cold turkey, and put
the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with the lemon-peel, herbs,
onion, pepper, salt, add the water; stew for an hour, strain the gravy,
and lay in the pieces of turkey. When warm through, add the cream and
the yolk of an egg; stir it well round, and, when getting thick, take
out the pieces, lay them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish
the fricassée with sippets of toasted bread. Celery or cucumbers, cut
into small pieces, may be put into the sauce; if the former, it must be
boiled first.

_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold turkey, 4d.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

    THE TURKEY.--This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the
    principal genera of which are Pheasants, Turkeys, Peacocks,
    Bustards, Pintatoes, and Grouse. They live mostly on the ground,
    scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and
    grains, which, previous to digestion, are macerated in their
    crops. They usually associate in families, consisting of one
    male and several females. Turkeys are particularly fond of the
    seeds of nettles, whilst the seeds of the foxglove will poison
    them. The common turkey is a native of North America, and, in
    the reign of Henry VIII., was introduced into England. According
    to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," it began
    about the year 1585 to form a dish at our rural Christmas
    feasts:--

      "Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,
      Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest;
      Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,
      As then in the country is counted good cheer."

    The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its
    flesh is much esteemed.

    THE DISPOSITION OF THE TURKEY.--Among themselves, turkeys are
    extremely furious, whilst amongst other animals they are usually
    both weak and cowardly. The domestic cock frequently makes them
    keep at a distance, whilst they will rarely attack him but in a
    united body, when the cock is rather crushed by their weight
    than defeated by their prowess. The disposition of the female is
    in general much more gentle than that of the male. When leading
    forth her young to collect their food, though so large and
    apparently so powerful a bird, she gives them very slight
    protection from the attacks of any rapacious animal which may
    appear against them. She rather warns them of their danger than
    offers to defend them; yet she is extremely affectionate to her
    young.

HASHED TURKEY.

989. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast turkey, 1 onion, pepper and
salt to taste, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1
blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Cut the turkey into neat joints; the best pieces reserve for
the hash, the inferior joints and trimmings put into a stewpan with an
onion cut in slices, pepper and salt, a carrot, turnip, mace, herbs, and
water in the above proportion; simmer these for an hour, then strain the
gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, flavour with ketchup and port
wine, and lay in the pieces of turkey to warm through; if there is any
stuffing left, put that in also, as it so much improves the flavour of
the gravy. When it boils, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of
toasted bread.

_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

    HUNTING TURKEYS.--Formerly, in Canada, hunting turkeys was one
    of the principal diversions of the natives of that country. When
    they discovered the retreat of the birds, which was generally
    near a field of nettles, or where grain of any kind was
    plentiful, they would send a well-trained dog into the midst of
    the flock. The turkeys no sooner perceived their enemy than they
    would run off at full speed, and with such swiftness that they
    would leave the dog far behind. He, however, would follow in
    their wake, and as they could not, for a great length of time,
    continue at their speed, they were at last forced to seek
    shelter in the trees. There they would sit, spent with fatigue,
    till the hunters would approach, and, with long poles, knock
    them down one after the other.

ROAST TURKEY.

990. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey; forcemeat No. 417.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose cock turkeys by their short spurs and
black legs, in which case they are young; if the spurs are long, and the
legs pale and rough, they are old. If the bird has been long killed, the
eyes will appear sunk and the feet very dry; but, if fresh, the contrary
will be the case. Middling-sized fleshy turkeys are by many persons
considered superior to those of an immense growth, as they are,
generally speaking, much more tender. They should never be dressed the
same day they are killed; but, in cold weather, should hang at least 8
days; if the weather is mild, 4 or 5 days will be found sufficient.
Carefully pluck the bird, singe it with white paper, and wipe it
thoroughly with a cloth; draw it, preserve the liver and gizzard, and be
particular not to break the gall-bag, as no washing will remove the
bitter taste it imparts where it once touches. Wash it _inside_ well,
and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth; the _outside_ merely requires
nicely wiping, as we have just stated. Cut off the neck close to the
back, but leave enough of the crop-skin to turn over; break the leg-bone
close below the knee, draw out the strings from the thighs, and flatten
the breastbone to make it look plump. Have ready a forcemeat made by
recipe No. 417; fill the breast with this, and, if a trussing-needle is
used, sew the neck over to the back; if a needle is not at hand, a
skewer will answer the purpose. Run a skewer through the pinion and
thigh into the body to the pinion and thigh on the other side, and press
the legs as much as possible between the breast and the side bones, and
put the liver under one pinion and the gizzard under the other. Pass a
string across the back of the bird, catch it over the points of the
skewer, tie it in the centre of the back, and be particular that the
turkey is very firmly trussed. This may be more easily accomplished with
a needle and twine than with skewers.

[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.]

_Mode_.--Fasten a sheet of buttered paper on to the breast of the bird,
put it down to a bright fire, at some little distance _at first_
(afterwards draw it nearer), and keep it well basted the whole of the
time it is cooking. About 1/4 hour before serving, remove the paper,
dredge the turkey lightly with flour, and put a piece of butter into the
basting-ladle; as the butter melts, baste the bird with it. When of a
nice brown and well frothed, serve with a tureen of good brown gravy and
one of bread sauce. Fried sausages are a favourite addition to roast
turkey; they make a pretty garnish, besides adding very much to the
flavour. When these are not at hand, a few forcemeat balls should be
placed round the dish as a garnish. Turkey may also be stuffed with
sausage-meat, and a chestnut forcemeat with the same sauce is, by many
persons, much esteemed as an accompaniment to this favourite dish.--See
coloured plate, A1.

_Time_.--Small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; moderate-sized one, about 10 lbs., 2
hours; large turkey, 2-1/2 hours, or longer.

_Average cost_, from 10s. to 12s., but expensive at Christmas, on
account of the great demand.

_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized turkey for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

    ENGLISH TURKEYS.--These are reared in great numbers in Suffolk,
    Norfolk, and several other counties, whence they were wont to be
    driven to the London market in flocks of several hundreds; the
    improvements in our modes of travelling now, however, enable
    them to be brought by railway. Their drivers used to manage them
    with great facility, by means of a bit of red rag tied to the
    end of a long stick, which, from the antipathy these birds have
    to that colour, effectually answered the purpose of a scourge.
    There are three varieties of the turkey in this country,--the
    black, the white, and the speckled, or copper-coloured. The
    black approaches nearest to the original stock, and is esteemed
    the best. Its flesh is white and tender, delicate, nourishing,
    and of excellent flavour; it greatly deteriorates with age,
    however, and is then good for little but stewing.

ROAST TURKEY POULTS.

991. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey poult; butter.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose a plump bird, and truss it in the
following manner:--After it has been carefully plucked, drawn, and
singed, skin the neck, and fasten the head under the wing; turn the legs
at the first joint, and bring the feet close to the thighs, as a
woodcock should be trussed, _and do not stuff it_.

_Mode_.--Put it down to a bright fire, keep it well basted, and at first
place a piece of paper on the breast to prevent its taking too much
colour. About 10 minutes before serving, dredge it lightly with flour,
and baste well; when nicely frothed, send it to table immediately, with
a little gravy in the dish, and some in a tureen. If at hand, a few
water-cresses may be placed round the turkey as a garnish, or it may be
larded.

_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 7s. to 8s. each.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_.--In full season from June to October.

    THE FUTURE OF THE TURKEY.--Human ingenuity subjects almost every
    material to the purposes of ornament or use and the feathers of
    turkeys have been found adapted for more ends than one. The
    American Indians convert then into an elegant clothing, and, by
    twisting the inner ribs into a strong double string, with hemp
    or the inner bark of the mulberry tree, work it like matting.
    This fabric has a very rich and glossy appearance and is as fine
    as silk shag. The natives of Louisiana used to make fans of the
    tail; and four of that appendage joined together was formerly
    constructed into a parasol by the French.

TO BONE A TURKEY OR FOWL WITHOUT OPENING IT.

(_Miss Acton's Recipe_.)

992. After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and out
with a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut through
the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them from the
fowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first from the
lower part of the backbone, and a little also from the end of the
breastbone, if necessary; work the knife gradually to the socket of the
thigh; with the point of the knife detach the joint from it, take the
end of the bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean from it
down to the next joint, round which pass the point of the knife
carefully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every part, cut
round the next bone, keeping; the edge of the knife close to it, until
the whole of the leg is done. Remove the bones of the other leg in the
same manner; then detach the flesh from the back--and breast-bone
sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the wings;
proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not to
pierce the skin of the second joint: it is usual to leave the pinions
unboned, in order to give more easily its natural form to the fowl when
it is dressed. The merrythought and neck-bones may now easily be cut
away, the back-and side-bones taken out without being divided, and the
breastbone separated carefully from the flesh (which, as the work
progresses, must be turned back from the bones upon the fowl, until it
is completely inside out). After the one remaining bone is removed, draw
the wings and legs back to their proper form, and turn the fowl right
side outwards.

993. A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner; but as it requires a
very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely, the logs and
wings are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the expense of
this. If very securely trussed, and sewn, the bird may be either boiled,
or stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after being boned and
forced; but it must be most gently cooled, or it may burst.


ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A TURKEY OR FOWL. (_Miss Acton's Recipe_.)

994. Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise the
flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife, until
the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practice
has been gained, it will perhaps be bettor to bone these joints before
proceeding further; but after they are once detached from it, the whole
of the body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken out entire:
only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed. The
bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form, by
filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the body with the livers
of two or three fowls, mixed with alternate layers of parboiled tongue
freed from the rind, fine sausage-meat, or veal forcemeat, or thin
slices of the nicest bacon, or aught else of good flavour, which will
give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is carved; and then be
sewn up and trussed as usual; or the legs and wings may be drawn inside
the body, and the bird being first flattened on a table, may be covered
with sausage-meat, and the various other ingredients we have named, so
placed that it shall be of equal thickness in every part; then tightly
rolled, bound firmly together with a fillet of broad tape, wrapped in a
thin pudding-cloth, closely tied at both ends, and dressed as
follows:--Put it into a braising-pan, stewpan, or thick iron saucepan,
bright in the inside, and fitted as nearly as may be to its size; add
all the chicken-bones, a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, two
bay-leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white peppercorns, and
any trimmings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand; cover the
whole with good veal broth, add salt, if needed, and stew it very
softly, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; let it cool in
the liquor in which it was stewed; and after it is lifted out, boil down
the gravy to a jelly and strain it; let it become cold, clear off the
fat, and serve it cut into large dice or roughed, and laid round the
fowl, which is to be served cold. If restored to its form, instead of
being rolled, it must be stewed gently for an hour, and may then be sent
to table hot, covered with mushroom, or any other good sauce that may be
preferred; or it may be left until the following day, and served
garnished with the jelly, which should be firm, and very clear and
well-flavoured: the liquor in which a calf's foot has been boiled down,
added to the broth, will give it the necessary degree of consistence.


TO BONE FOWLS FOR FRICASSEES, CURRIES, & PIES.

995. First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones,
beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone; hold
this with the fingers, and work the knife as directed in the recipe
above. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any
instructions.


TO DRESS WHEATEARS.

996. INGREDIENTS.--Wheatears; fresh butter.

_Mode_.--After the birds are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them
like larks, put them down to a quick fire, and baste them well with
fresh butter. When done, which will be in about 20 minutes, dish them on
fried bread crumbs, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon.

_Time_.--20 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from July to October.

    THE WHEATEAR.--The wheatear is an annual visitor of England: it
    arrives about the middle of March and leaves in September. The
    females come about a fortnight before the males, and continue to
    arrive till the middle of May. They are in season from July to
    October, and are taken in large numbers on the South Downs, in
    the neighbourhood of Eastbourne, Brighton, and other parts of
    Sussex. They are taken by means of snares and nets, and numbers
    of them are eaten on the spot by the inhabitants. The larger
    ones are sent to London and potted, where they are by many as
    much esteemed as the ortolans of the continent. Mr. Pennant
    assigns as the reason of their abounding on the downs about
    Eastbourne, the existence of a species of fly which forms their
    favourite food, and which feeds on the wild thyme on the
    adjacent hills.

[Illustration: THE GUINEA-PIG.]

    997. THE GUINEA-PIG.--This common hutch-companion of the rabbit,
    although originally a native of Brazil, propagates freely in
    England and other European countries. Were it not that they
    suffer cruelly from cats, and numerous other enemies, and that
    it is the habit of the males to devour their own offspring,
    their numbers would soon become overwhelming. Rats, however, it
    is said, carefully avoid them; and for this reason they are
    frequently bred by rabbit-fanciers, by way of protection for
    their young stock against those troublesome vermin. The lower
    tier of a rabbit-hutch is esteemed excellent quarters by the
    guinea-pig: here, as he runs loose, he will devour the waste
    food of his more admired companion. Home naturalists assert that
    the guinea-pig will breed at two months old, the litter varying
    from four to twelve at a time. It is varied in colour,--white,
    fawn, and black, and a mixture of the three colours, forming a
    tortoiseshell, which is the more generally admired hue.
    Occasionally, the white ones have red eyes, like those of the
    ferret and the white rabbit. Their flesh, although eatable, is
    decidedly unfit for food; they have been tasted, however, we
    presume by some enthusiast eager to advance the cause of
    science, or by some eccentric epicure in search of a new
    pleasure for his palate. Unless it has been that they deter rats
    from intruding within the rabbit-hutch, they are as useless as
    they are harmless. The usual ornament of an animal's hind
    quarters is denied them; and were it not for this fact, and also
    for their difference in colour, the Shaksperean locution, "a rat
    without a tail," would designate them very properly.

[Illustration: THE CYGNET.]

    998. THE CYGNET.--The Cygnet, or the young Swan, was formerly
    much esteemed; but it has "fallen from its high estate," and is
    now rarely seen upon the table. We are not sure that it is not
    still fattened in Norwich for the corporation of that place.
    Persons who have property on the river there, take the young
    birds, and send them to some one who is employed by the
    corporation, to be fed; and for this trouble he is paid, or was
    wont to be paid, about half a guinea a bird. It is as the future
    bird of elegance and grace that the young swan is mostly
    admired; when it has become old enough to grace the waters, then
    it is that all admire her, when she with
                      "Archèd neck,
      Between her white wings mantling,
        proudly rows
      Her state with oary feet."


POULTRY CARVING.


ROAST DUCK.

[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.]

999. No dishes require so much knowledge and skill in their carving as
do game and poultry; for it is necessary to be well acquainted with the
anatomy of the bird and animal in order to place the knife at exactly
the proper point. A tough fowl and an old goose are sad triers of a
carver's powers and temper, and, indeed, sometimes of the good humour of
those in the neighbourhood of the carver; for a sudden tilt of the dish
may eventuate in the placing a quantity of the gravy in the lap of the
right or left-hand supporter of the host. We will endeavour to assist
those who are unacquainted with the "gentle art of carving," and also
those who are but slightly acquainted with it, by simply describing the
rules to follow, and referring to the distinctly-marked Illustrations of
each dish, which will further help to bring light to the minds of the
uninitiated. If the bird be a young duckling, it may be carved like a
fowl, viz., by first taking off the leg and the wing on either side, as
described at No. 1000; but in cases where the duckling is very small, it
will be as well not to separate the leg from the wing, as they will not
then form too large a portion for a single serving. After the legs and
wings are disposed of, the remainder of the duck will be also carved in
the same manner as a fowl; and not much difficulty will be experienced,
as ducklings are tender, and the joints are easily broken by a little
gentle forcing, or penetrated by the knife. In cases where the duck is a
large bird, the better plan to pursue is then to carve it like a goose,
that is, by cutting pieces from the breast in the direction indicated by
the lines marked from 1 to 2, commencing to carve the slices close to
the wing, and then proceeding upwards from that to the breastbone. If
more should be wanted than can be obtained from both sides of the
breast, then the legs and wings must be attacked, in the same way as is
described in connection with carving a fowl. It may be here remarked,
that as the legs of a duck are placed far more backward than those of a
fowl, their position causing the waddling motion of the bird, the
thigh-bones will be found considerably nearer towards the backbone than
in a chicken: this is the only difference worth mentioning. The carver
should ask each guest if a portion of stuffing would be agreeable; and
in order to get at this, a cut should be made below the breast, as shown
by the line from 3 to 4, at the part called the "apron," and the spoon
inserted. (As described in the recipe, it is an excellent plan, when a
couple of ducks are served, to have one with, and the other without
stuffing.) As to the prime parts of a duck, it has been said that "the
wing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer" are severally the best
portions. Some persons are fond of the feet of the duck; and, in
trussing, these should never be taken off. The leg, wing, and neckbone
are here shown; so that it will be easy to see the shape they should be
when cut off.

[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF DUCK.]

BOILED FOWL.

[Illustration: BOILED FOWL.]

[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF FOWL.]

1000. This will not be found a very difficult member of the poultry
family to carve, unless, as may happen, a very old farmyard occupant,
useless for egg-laying purposes, has, by some unlucky mischance, been
introduced info the kitchen as a "fine young chicken." Skill, however,
and the application of a small amount of strength, combined with a fine
keeping of the temper, will even get over that difficulty. Fixing the
fork firmly in the breast, let the knife be sharply passed along the
line shown from 1 to 2; then cut downwards from that line to fig. 3; and
the wing, it will be found, can be easily withdrawn. The shape of the
wing should be like the accompanying engraving. Let the fork be placed
inside the leg, which should be gently forced away from the body of the
fowl; and the joint, being thus discovered, the carver can readily cut
through it, and the leg can be served. When the leg is displaced, it
should be of the same shape as that shown in the annexed woodcut. The
legs and wings on either side having been taken off, the carver should
draw his knife through the flesh in the direction of the line 4 to 5: by
this means the knife can be slipped underneath the merrythought, which,
being lifted up and pressed backward, will immediately come off. The
collar--or neck-bones are the next to consider: these lie on each side
of the merrythought, close under the upper part of the wings; and, in
order to free these from the fowl, they must also be raised by the knife
at their broad end, and turned from the body towards the breastbone,
until the shorter piece of the bone, as shown in the cut, breaks off.
There will now be left only the breast, with the ribs. The breast can
be, without difficulty, disengaged from the ribs by cutting through the
latter, which will offer little impediment. The side-bones are now to be
taken off; and to do this, the lower end of the back should be turned
from the carver, who should press the point of the knife through the top
of the backbone, near the centre, bringing it down towards the end of
the back completely through the bone. If the knife is now turned in the
opposite direction, the joint will be easily separated from the
vertebra. The backbone being now uppermost, the fork should be pressed
firmly down on it, whilst at the same time the knife should be employed
in raising up the lower small end of the fowl towards the fork, and thus
the back will be dislocated about its middle. The wings, breast, and
merrythought are esteemed the prime parts of a fowl, and are usually
served to the ladies of the company, to whom legs, except as a matter of
paramount necessity, should not be given. Byron gave it as one reason
why he did not like dining with ladies, that they always had the wings
of the fowls, which he himself preferred. We heard a gentleman who, when
he might have had a wing, declare his partiality for a leg, saying that
he had been obliged to eat legs for so long a time, that he had at last
come to like them better than the other more prized parts. If the fowl
is, capon-like, very large, slices maybe carved from its breast in the
same manner as from a turkey's.


ROAST FOWL.

[Illustration: ROAST FOWL.]

1001. Generally speaking, it is not necessary so completely to cut up a
fowl as we have described in the preceding paragraphs, unless, indeed, a
large family party is assembled, and there are a number of "little
mouths" to be filled, or some other such circumstances prevail. A roast
fowl is carved in the same manner as a boiled fowl, No. 1000; viz., by
cutting along the line from. 1 to 2, and then round the leg between it
and the wing. The markings and detached pieces, as shown in the
engravings under the heading of "Boiled Fowl," supersede the necessity
of our lengthily again describing the operation. It may be added, that
the liver, being considered a delicacy, should be divided, and one half
served with each wing. In the case of a fowl being shifted, it will be
proper to give each guest a portion, unless it be not agreeable to some
one of the party.

ROAST GOOSE.

[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.]

[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECK-BONE OF GOOSE.]

1002. It would not be fair to say that this dish bodes a great deal of
happiness to an inexperienced carver, especially if there is a large
party to serve, and the slices off the breast should not suffice to
satisfy the desires and cravings of many wholesome appetites, produced,
may be, by the various sports in vogue at Michaelmas and Christmas. The
beginning of the task, however, is not in any way difficult. Evenly-cut
slices, not too thick or too thin, should be carved from the breast in
the direction of the line from 2 to 3; after the first slice has been
cut, a hole should be made with the knife in the part called the apron,
passing it round the line, as indicated by the figures 1, 1, 1: here the
stuffing is located, and some of this should be served on each plate,
unless it is discovered that it is not agreeable to the taste of some
one guest. If the carver manages cleverly, he will be able to cut a very
large number of fine slices off the breast, and the more so if he
commences close down by the wing, and carves upwards towards the ridge
of the breastbone. As many slices as can be taken from the breast being
carved, the wings should be cut off; and the same process as described
in carving boiled fowl, is made use of in this instance, only more
dexterity and greater force will most probably be required: the shape of
the leg, when disengaged from the body of the goose, should be like that
shown in the accompanying engraving. It will be necessary, perhaps, in
taking off the leg, to turn the goose on its side, and then, pressing
down the small end of the leg, the knife should be passed under it from
the top quite down to the joint; the leg being now turned back by the
fork, the knife must cut through the joint, loosening the thigh-bone
from its socket. The merrythought, which in a goose is not so large as
might be expected, is disengaged in the same way as that of a fowl--by
passing the knife under it, and pressing it backwards towards the neck.
The neck-bones, of which we give a cut, are freed by the same process as
are those of a fowl; and the same may be said of all the other parts of
this bird. The breast of a goose is the part most esteemed; all parts,
however, are good, and full of juicy flavour.


PIGEON.

[Illustration: PIGEON.]

1003. A very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon: the
knife is carried sharply in the direction of the line as shown from 1 to
2, entirely through the bird, cutting it into two precisely equal and
similar parts. If it is necessary to make three pieces of it, a small
wing should be cut off with the leg on either side, thus serving two
guests; and, by this means, there will be sufficient meat left on the
breast to send to the third guest.


RABBITS.

[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.]

1004. In carving a boiled rabbit, let the knife be drawn on each side of
the backbone, the whole length of the rabbit, as shown by the dotted
line 3 to 4: thus the rabbit will be in three parts. Now let the back be
divided into two equal parts in the direction of the line from 1 to 2;
then let the leg be taken off, as shown by the line 5 to 6, and the
shoulder, as shown by the line 7 to 8. This, in our opinion, is the best
plan to carve a rabbit, although there are other modes which are
preferred by some.

[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.]

A roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant to
be boiled; but the carving is nearly similar, as will be seen by the
cut. The back should be divided into as many pieces as it will give, and
the legs and shoulders can then be disengaged in the same manner as
those of the boiled animal.


ROAST TURKEY.

[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.]

1005. A noble dish is a turkey, roast or boiled. A Christmas dinner,
with the middle classes of this empire, would scarcely be a Christmas
dinner without its turkey; and we can hardly imagine an object of
greater envy than is presented by a respected portly pater-familias
carving, at the season devoted to good cheer and genial charity, his own
fat turkey, and carving it well. The only art consists, as in the
carving of a goose, in getting from the breast as many fine slices as
possible; and all must have remarked the very great difference in the
large number of people whom a good carver will find slices for, and the
comparatively few that a bad carver will succeed in serving. As we have
stated in both the carving of a duck and goose, the carver should
commence cutting slices close to the wing from, 2 to 3, and then proceed
upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone: this is not the usual plan,
but, in practice, will be found the best. The breast is the only part
which is looked on as fine in a turkey, the legs being very seldom cut
off and eaten at table: they are usually removed to the kitchen, where
they are taken off, as here marked, to appear only in a form which seems
to have a special attraction at a bachelor's supper-table,--we mean
devilled: served in this way, they are especially liked and relished.

A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted.




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXII.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME.

1006. THE COMMON LAW OF ENGLAND has a maxim, that goods, in which no
person can claim any property, belong, by his or her prerogative, to the
king or queen. Accordingly, those animals, those _ferae naturae_, which
come under the denomination of game, are, in our laws, styled his or her
majesty's, and may therefore, as a matter of course, be granted by the
sovereign to another; in consequence of which another may prescribe to
possess the same within a certain precinct or lordship. From this
circumstance arose the right of lords of manors or others to the game
within their respective liberties; and to protect these species of
animals, the game laws were originated, and still remain in force. There
are innumerable acts of parliament inflicting penalties on persons who
may illegally kill game, and some of them are very severe; but they
cannot be said to answer their end, nor can it be expected that they
ever will, whilst there are so many persons of great wealth who have not
otherwise the means of procuring game, except by purchase, and who will
have it. These must necessarily encourage poaching, which, to a very
large extent, must continue to render all game laws nugatory as to their
intended effects upon the rustic population.

1007. THE OBJECT OF THESE LAWS, however, is not wholly confined to the
restraining of the illegal sportsman. Even qualified or privileged
persons must not kill game at all seasons. During the day, the hours
allowed for sporting are from one hour before sunrise till one hour
after sunset; whilst the time of killing certain species is also
restricted to certain seasons. For example, the season for
bustard-shooting is from December 1 to March 1; for grouse, or red
grouse, from August 12 to December 10; heath-fowl, or black-game, from
August 20 to December 20; partridges from September 1 to February 12;
pheasants from October 1 to February 1; widgeons, wild ducks, wild
geese, wild fowls, at any time but in June, July, August, and September.
Hares may be killed at any time of the year, under certain restrictions
defined by an act of parliament of the 10th of George III.

1008. THE EXERCISE OR DIVERSION OF PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED BEASTS OF GAME
is called hunting, which, to this day, is followed in the field and the
forest, with gun and greyhound. Birds, on the contrary, are not hunted,
but shot in the air, or taken with nets and other devices, which is
called fowling; or they are pursued and taken by birds of prey, which is
called hawking, a species of sport now fallen almost entirely into
desuetude in England, although, in some parts, showing signs of being
revived.


1009. IN PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED BEASTS, such as deer, boars, and hares,
properly termed hunting, mankind were, from the earliest ages, engaged.
It was the rudest and the most obvious manner of acquiring human support
before the agricultural arts had in any degree advanced. It is an
employment, however, requiring both art and contrivance, as well as a
certain fearlessness of character, combined with the power of
considerable physical endurance. Without these, success could not be
very great; but, at best, the occupation is usually accompanied with
rude and turbulent habits; and, when combined with these, it constitutes
what is termed the savage state of man. As culture advances, and as the
soil proportionably becomes devoted to the plough or to the sustenance
of the tamer or more domesticated animals, the range of the huntsman is
proportionably limited; so that when a country has attained to a high
state of cultivation, hunting becomes little else than an amusement of
the opulent. In the case of fur-bearing animals, however, it is somewhat
different; for these continue to supply the wants of civilization with
one of its most valuable materials of commerce.


1010. THE THEMES WHICH FORM THE MINSTRELSY OF THE EARLIEST AGES, either
relate to the spoils of the chase or the dangers of the battle-field.
Even the sacred writings introduce us to Nimrod, the first mighty hunter
before the Lord, and tell us that Ishmael, in the solitudes of Arabia,
became a skilful bow-man; and that David, when yet young, was not afraid
to join in combat with the lion or the bear. The Greek mythology teems
with hunting exploits. Hercules overthrows the Nemaean lion, the
Erymanthean boar, and the hydra of Lerna; Diana descends to the earth,
and pursues the stag; whilst Aesculapius, Nestor, Theseus, Ulysses, and
Achilles are all followers of the chase. Aristotle, sage as he was,
advises young men to apply themselves early to it; and Plato finds in it
something divine. Horace exalts it as a preparative exercise for the
path of glory, and several of the heroes of Homer are its ardent
votaries. The Romans followed the hunting customs of the Greeks, and the
ancient Britons were hunters before Julius Caesar invaded their shores.

1011. ALTHOUGH THE ANCIENT BRITONS FOLLOWED HUNTING, however, they did
not confine themselves solely to its pursuit. They bred cattle and
tilled the ground, and, to some extent, indicated the rudimentary state
of a pastoral and agricultural life; but, in every social change, the
sports of the field maintained their place. After the expulsion of the
Danes, and during the brief restoration of the Saxon monarchy, these
were still followed: even Edward the Confessor, who would join in no
other secular amusements, took the greatest delight, says William of
Malmesbury, "to follow a pack of swift hounds in pursuit of game, and to
cheer them with his voice."

1012. NOR WAS EDWARD the only English sovereign who delighted in the
pleasures of the chase. William the Norman, and his two sons who
succeeded him, were passionately fond of the sport, and greatly
circumscribed the liberties of their subjects in reference to the
killing of game. The privilege of hunting in the royal forests was
confined to the king and his favourites; and in order that these
umbrageous retreats might be made more extensive, whole villages were
depopulated, places of worship levelled with the ground, and every means
adopted that might give a sufficient amplitude of space, in accordance
with the royal pleasure, for the beasts of the chase. King John was
likewise especially attached to the sports of the field; whilst Edward
III. was so enamoured of the exercise, that even during his absence at
the wars in France, he took with him sixty couples of stag-hounds and as
many hare-hounds, and every day amused himself either with hunting or
hawking. Great in wisdom as the Scotch Solomon, James I., conceited
himself to be, he was much addicted to the amusements of hunting,
hawking, and shooting. Yea, it is oven asserted that his precious time
was divided between hunting, the bottle, and his standish: to the first
he gave his fair weather, to the second his dull, and to the third his
cloudy. From his days down to the present, the sports of the field have
continued to hold their high reputation, not only for the promotion of
health, but for helping to form that manliness of character which enters
so largely into the composition of the sons of the British soil. That it
largely helps to do this there can be no doubt. The late duke of
Grafton, when hunting, was, on one occasion, thrown into a ditch. A
young curate, engaged in the same chase, cried out, "Lie still, my
lord!" leapt over him, and pursued his sport. Such an apparent want of
feeling might be expected to have been resented by the duke; but not so.
On his being helped up by his attendant, he said, "That man shall have
the first good living that falls to my disposal: had he stopped to have
given me his sympathy, I never would have given him anything." Such was
the manly sentiment of the duke, who delighted in the exemplification of
a spirit similarly ardent as his own in the sport, and above the
baseness of an assumed sorrow.

1013. THAT HUNTING HAS IN MANY INSTANCES BEEN CARRIED TO AN EXCESS is
well known, and the match given by the Prince Esterhazy, regent of
Hungary, on the signing of the treaty of peace with France, is not the
least extraordinary upon record. On that occasion, there were killed 160
deer, 100 wild boars, 300 hares, and 80 foxes: this was the achievement
of one day. Enormous, however, as this slaughter may appear, it is
greatly inferior to that made by the contemporary king of Naples on a
hunting expedition. That sovereign had a larger extent of ground at his
command, and a longer period for the exercise of his talents;
consequently, his sport, if it can so be called, was proportionably
greater. It was pursued during his journey to Vienna, in Austria,
Bohemia, and Moravia; when he killed 5 bears, 1,820 boars, 1,950 deer,
1,145 does, 1,625 roebucks, 11,121 rabbits, 13 wolves, 17 badgers,
16,354 hares, and 354 foxes. In birds, during the same expedition, he
killed 15,350 pheasants and 12,335 partridges. Such an amount of
destruction can hardly be called sport; it resembles more the
indiscriminate slaughter of a battle-field, where the scientific engines
of civilized warfare are brought to bear upon defenceless savages.

1014. DEER AND HARES may be esteemed as the only four-footed animals now
hunted in Britain for the table; and even those are not followed with
the same ardour as they were wont to be. Still, there is no country in
the world where the sport of hunting on horseback is carried to such an
extent as in Great Britain, and where the pleasures of the chase are so
well understood, and conducted on such purely scientific principles. The
Fox, of all "the beasts of the field," is now considered to afford the
best sport. For this, it is infinitely superior to the stag; for the
real sportsman can only enjoy that chase when the deer is sought for and
found like other game which are pursued with hounds. In the case of
finding an outlying fallow-deer, which is unharboured, in this manner,
great sport is frequently obtained; but this is now rarely to be met
with in Britain. In reference to hare-hunting, it is much followed in
many parts of this and the sister island; but, by the true foxhunter, it
is considered as a sport only fit to be pursued by women and old men.
Although it is less dangerous and exciting than the fox-chase, however,
it has great charms for those who do not care for the hard riding which
the other requires.


1015. THE ART OF TAKING OR KILLING BIRDS is called "fowling," and is
either practised as an amusement by persons of rank or property, or for
a livelihood by persons who use nets and other apparatus. When practised
as an amusement, it principally consists of killing them with a light
firearm called a "fowling-piece," and the sport is secured to those who
pursue it by the game laws. The other means by which birds are taken,
consist in imitating their voices, or leading them, by other artifices,
into situations where they become entrapped by nets, birdlime, or
otherwise. For taking large numbers of birds, the pipe or call is the
most common means employed; and this is done during the months of
September and October. We will here briefly give a description of the
_modus operandi_ pursued in this sport. A thin wood is usually the spot
chosen, and, under a tree at a little distance from the others, a cabin
is erected, and there are only such branches left on the tree as are
necessary for the placing of the birdlime, and which are covered with
it. Around the cabin are placed avenues with twisted perches, also
covered with birdlime. Having thus prepared all that is necessary, the
birdcatcher places himself in the cabin, and, at sunrise and sunset,
imitates the cry of a small bird calling the others to its assistance.
Supposing that the cry of the owl is imitated, immediately different
kinds of birds will flock together at the cry of their common enemy,
when, at every instant, they will be seen falling to the ground, their
wings being of no use to them, from their having come in contact with
the birdlime. The cries of those which are thus situated now attract
others, and thus are large numbers taken in a short space of time. If
owls were themselves desired to be taken, it is only during the night
that this can be done, by counterfeiting the squeak of the mouse. Larks,
other birds, and water-fowl, are sometimes taken by nets; but to
describe fully the manner in which this is done, would here occupy too
much space.

1016. FEATHERED GAME HAVE FROM TIME IMMEMORIAL given gratification to
the palate of man. With the exception of birds of prey, and some other
species, Moses permitted his people to eat them; and the Egyptians made
offerings to their priests of their most delicate birds. The ancient
Greeks commenced their repasts with little roasted birds; and feathered
game, amongst the Romans, was served as the second course. Indeed,
several of the ancient _gourmands_ of the "imperial city" were so fond
of game, that they brought themselves to ruin by eating flamingoes and
pheasants. "Some modern nations, the French among others," says Monsieur
Soyer, "formerly ate the heron, crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant, and
bittern. The first three especially were highly esteemed; and
Laillevant, cook of Charles VII., teaches us how to prepare these
meagre, tough birds. Belon says, that in spite of its revolting taste
when unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, however, among the delicious
treats of the French. This writer also asserts, that a falcon or a
vulture, either roasted or boiled, is excellent eating; and that if one
of these birds happened to kill itself in flying after game, the
falconer instantly cooked it. Lebaut calls the heron a royal viand."

1017. THE HERON WAS HUNTED BY THE HAWK, and the sport of hawking is
usually placed at the head of those amusements that can only be
practised in the country. This precedency it probably obtained from its
being a pastime to generally followed by the nobility, not in Great
Britain only, but likewise on the continent. In former times, persons of
high rank rarely appeared in public without their dogs and their hawks:
the latter they carried with them when they journeyed from one country
to another, and sometimes even took them to battle with them, and would
not part with them when taken prisoners, even to obtain their own
liberty. Such birds were esteemed as the ensigns of nobility, and no
action was reckoned more dishonourable in a man of rank than that of
giving up his hawk. We have already alluded to the hunting propensities
of our own Edward III., and we may also allude to his being equally
addicted to hawking. According to Froissart, when this sovereign invaded
France, he took with him thirty falconers on horseback, who had charge
of his hawks, and every day, as his royal fancy inclined him, he either
hunted, or went to the river for the purpose of hawking. In the great
and powerful, the pursuit of game as a sport is allowable, but in those
who have to earn their bread by the sweat of their brow, it is to be
condemned. In Burton's "Anatomy of Melancholy" we find a humorous story,
told by Poggius, the Florentine, who reprobates this folly in such
persons. It is this. A physician of Milan, that cured madmen, had a pit
of water in his house, in which he kept his patients, some up to the
knees, some to the girdle, some to the chin, _pro modo insaniae_, as
they were more or less affected. One of them by chance, that was well
recovered, stood in the door, and seeing a gallant pass by with a hawk
on his fist, well mounted, with his spaniels after him, would needs know
to what use all this preparation served. He made answer, To kill certain
fowl. The patient demanded again, what his fowl might be worth which he
killed in a year? He replied, Five or ten crowns; and when he urged him
further, what his dogs, horse, and hawks stood him in, he told him four
hundred crowns. With that the patient bade him begone, as he loved his
life and welfare; "for if our master come and find thee here, he will
put thee in the pit, amongst the madmen, up to the chin." Thus reproving
the madness of such men as will spend themselves in those vain sports,
to the neglect of their business and necessary affairs.

1018. AS THE INEVITABLE RESULT OF SOCIAL PROGRESS is, at least to limit,
if not entirely to suppress, such sports as we have here been treating
of, much of the romance of country life has passed away. This is more
especially the case with falconry, which had its origin about the middle
of the fourth century, although, lately, some attempts have been rather
successfully made to institute a revival of the "gentle art" of hawking.
Julius Firmicus, who lived about that time, is, so far as we can find,
the first Latin author who speaks of falconers, and the art of teaching
one species of birds to fly after and catch others. The occupation of
these functionaries has now, however, all but ceased. New and nobler
efforts characterize the aims of mankind in the development of their
civilization, and the sports of the field have, to a large extent, been
superseded by other exercises, it may be less healthful and
invigorating, but certainly more elegant, intellectual, and humanizing.

[Illustration]




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXIII.


ROAST BLACK-COCK.

1019. INGREDIENTS.--Black-cock, butter, toast.

[Illustration: ROAST BLACK-COCK.]

_Mode_.--Let these birds hang for a few days, or they will be tough and
tasteless, if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, and wipe the insides
and outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the flavour. Cut off
the heads, and truss them, the same as a roast fowl, cutting off the
toes, and scalding and peeling the feet. Trussing them with the head on,
as shown in the engraving, is still practised by many cooks, but the
former method is now considered the best. Put them down to a brisk fire,
well baste them with butter, and serve with a piece of toast under, and
a good gravy and bread sauce. After trussing, some cooks cover the
breast with vine-leaves and slices of bacon, and then roast them. They
should be served in the same manner and with the same accompaniments as
with the plainly-roasted birds.

_Time_.--45 to 50 minutes.

_Average cost_, from 5s. to 6s. the brace; but seldom bought.

_Sufficient_,--2 or 3 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of August to the end of December.

[Illustration: THE BLACK-COCK.]

    THE BLACK-COCK, HEATH-COCK, MOOR-FOWL, OR HEATH-POULT.--This
    bird sometimes weighs as much as four pounds, and the hen about
    two. It is at present confined to the more northern parts of
    Britain, culture and extending population having united in
    driving it into more desolate regions, except, perhaps, in a few
    of the more wild and less-frequented portions of England. It may
    still be found in the New Forest, in Hampshire, Dartmoor, and
    Sedgmoor, in Devonshire, and among the hills of Somersetshire,
    contiguous to the latter. It may also be found in Staffordshire,
    in North Wales, and again in the north of England; but nowhere
    so plentiful as in some parts of the Highlands of Scotland. The
    males are hardly distinguishable from the females until they are
    about half-grown, when the black feathers begin to appear, first
    about the sides and breast. Their food consists of the tops of
    birch and heath, except when the mountain berries are ripe, at
    which period they eagerly and even voraciously pick the
    bilberries and cranberries from the bushes. Large numbers of
    these birds are found in Norway, almost rivalling the turkey in
    point of size. Some of them have begun to be imported into
    London, where they are vended in the shops; but the flavour of
    their flesh is not equal to that of the Scotch bird.

HASHED WILD DUCK.

1020. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast wild duck, 1 pint of good
brown gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 glass of claret, salt,
cayenne, and mixed spices to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon or Seville
orange-juice.

_Mode_.--Cut the remains of the duck into neat joints, put them into a
stewpan, with all the above ingredients; let them get gradually hot by
the side of the fire, and occasionally stir the contents; when on the
point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted
bread.

_Time_.--About 1/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ from November to February.


RAGOUT OF WILD DUCK.

1021. INGREDIENTS.--2 wild ducks, 4 shalots, 1 pint of stock No. 105, 1
glass of port wine, 1 oz. of butter, a little flour, the juice of 1/2
lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding day
will answer for this dish. Cut them into joints, reserve the legs,
wings, and breasts until wanted; put the trimmings into a stewpan with
the shalots and stock, and let them simmer for about 1/2 hour, and
strain the gravy. Put the butter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in
a little flour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones; give it one
boil, and strain it again; add the wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; lay
in the pieces of duck, and let the whole gradually warm through, but do
not allow it to boil, or the duck will be hard. The gravy should not be
too thick, and should be very highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Seville
orange is a great improvement to this dish.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to make the gravy; 1/4 hour for the duck
gradually to warm through.

_Seasonable_ from November to February.


ROAST WILD DUCK.

1022. INGREDIENTS.--Wild duck, flour, butter.

[Illustration: ROAST WILD DUCK.]

_Mode_.--Carefully pluck and draw them; Cut off the heads close to the
necks, leaving sufficient skin to turn over, and do not cut off the
feet; some twist each leg at the knuckle, and rest the claws on each
side of the breast; others truss them as shown in our Illustration.
Roast the birds before a quick fire, and, when they are first put down,
let them remain for 5 minutes without basting (this will keep the gravy
in); afterwards baste plentifully with butter, and a few minutes before
serving dredge them lightly with flour; baste well, and send them to
table nicely frothed, and full of gravy. If overdone, the birds will
lose their flavour. Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or orange
gravy, No. 488; and send to table with them a cut lemon. To take off the
fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes have, baste them for a few minutes
with hot water to which have been added an onion and a little salt; then
take away the pan, and baste with butter.--See coloured plate, G1.

_Time_.--When liked underdressed, 20 to 25 minutes; well done, 25 to 35
minutes.

_Average cost_, 4s. to 5s. the couple.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from November to February.

[Illustration: THE WILD DUCK.]

    THE WILD DUCK.--The male of the wild dock is called a mallard;
    and the young ones are called flappers. The time to try to find
    a brood of these is about the month of July, among the rushes of
    the deepest and most retired parts of some brook or stream,
    where, if the old bird is sprung, it may be taken as a certainty
    that its brood is not far off. When once found, flappers are
    easily killed, as they attain their full growth before their
    wings are fledged. Consequently, the sport is more like hunting
    water-rats than shooting birds. When the flappers take wing,
    they assume the name of wild ducks, and about the month of
    August repair to the corn-fields, where they remain until they
    are disturbed by the harvest-people. They then frequent the
    rivers pretty early in the evening, and give excellent sport to
    those who have patience to wait for them. In order to know a
    wild duck, it is necessary only to look at the claws, which
    should be black.

HASHED GAME (Cold Meat Cookery).

1023. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold game, 1 onion stuck with 3
cloves, a few whole peppers, a strip of lemon-peel, salt to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 pint of water or weak stock.

_Mode_.--Cut the remains of cold game into joints, reserve the best
pieces, and the inferior ones and trimmings put into a stewpan with the
onion, pepper, lemon-peel, salt, and water or weak stock; stew these for
about an hour, and strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour;
add the wine, lemon-juice, and ketchup; lay in the pieces of game, and
let them gradually warm through by the side of the fire; do not allow it
to boil, or the game will be hard. When on the point of simmering,
serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note_.--Any kind of game may be hashed by the above recipe, and the
flavour may be varied by adding flavoured vinegars, curvy powder, &c.;
but we cannot recommend these latter ingredients, as a dish of game
should really have a gamy taste; and if too many sauces, essences, &c.,
are added to the gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavour the
dish should possess.


GROUSE PIE.

1024. INGREDIENTS.--Grouse; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 lb. of
rump-steak, 1/2 pint of well-seasoned broth, puff paste.

_Mode_.--Line the bottom of a pie-dish with the rump-steak cut into neat
pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints; but, if
small, they may be laid in the pie whole; season highly with salt,
cayenne, and black pepper; pour in the broth, and cover with a puff
paste; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and bake from 3/4
to 1 hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones and trimmings
will make the gravy, by stewing them with an onion, a little sherry, a
bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace: this should be poured in after the
pie is baked.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the grouse, which are seldom bought, 1s.
9d.

_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.


ROAST GROUSE.

[Illustration: ROAST GROUSE.]

1025. INGREDIENTS.--Grouse, butter, a thick slice of toasted bread.

_Mode_.--Let the birds hang as long as possible; pluck and draw them;
wipe, but do not wash them, inside and out, and truss them without the
head, the same as for a roast fowl. Many persons still continue to truss
them with the head under the wing, but the former is now considered the
most approved method. Put them down to a sharp clear fire; keep them
well basted the whole of the time they are cooking, and serve them on a
buttered toast, soaked in the dripping-pan, with a little melted butter
poured over them, or with bread-sauce and gravy.--See coloured plate,
L1.

_Time_.--1/2 hour; if liked very thoroughly done, 35 minutes.

_Average cost_, 2s. to 2s. 6d. the brace; but seldom bought.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.

[Illustration: RED GROUSE.]

    GROUSE.--These birds are divided into wood grouse, black grouse,
    red grouse, and white grouse. The wood grouse is further
    distinguished as the cock of the wood, or capercalzie, and is as
    large as the turkey, being about two feet nine inches in length,
    and weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds. The female is
    considerably less than the male, and, in the colour of her
    feathers, differs widely from the other. This beautiful species
    is found principally in lofty, mountainous regions, and is very
    rare in Great Britain; but in the pine forests of Russia,
    Sweden, and other northern countries, it is very common. In
    these it has its habitat, feeding on the cones of the trees, and
    the fruits of various kinds of plants, especially the berry of
    the jumper. Black grouse is also distinguished as black-game, or
    the black-cock. It is not larger than the common hen, and weighs
    only about four pounds. The female is about one-third less than
    the male, and also differs considerably from him in point of
    colour. Like the former, they are found chiefly in high
    situations, and are common in Russia, Siberia, and other
    northern countries. They are also found in the northern parts of
    Great Britain, feeding in winter on the various berries and
    fruits belonging to mountainous countries, and, in summer,
    frequently descending to the lower lands, to feed upon corn. The
    red grouse, gorcock, or moor-cock, weighs about nineteen ounces,
    and the female somewhat less. In the wild heathy tracts of the
    northern counties of England it is plentiful, also in Wales and
    the Highlands of Scotland. Mr. Pennant considered it peculiar to
    Britain, those found in the mountainous parts of Spain, France,
    and Italy, being only varieties of the same bird. White grouse,
    white game, or ptarmigan, is nearly the same size as the red
    grouse, and is found in lofty situations, where it supports
    itself in the severest weather. It is to be met with in most of
    the northern countries of Europe, and appears even in Greenland.
    In the Hebrides, Orkneys, and the Highlands of Scotland, it is
    also found; and sometimes, though rarely, among the fells of
    Northumberland and Cumberland. In winter they fly in flocks, and
    are so little familiar with the sight of man, that they are
    easily shot, and even snared. They feed on the wild produce of
    the hills, which sometimes imparts to their flesh a bitter but
    not unpalatable taste. According to Buffon, it is dark-coloured,
    and somewhat flavoured like the hare.

GROUSE SALAD.

(_Soyer's Recipe_.)

1026. INGREDIENTS.--8 eggs, butter, fresh salad, 1 or 2 grouse; for the
sauce, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar,
the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1/4 oz. of salt, 4
tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 1 gill of
cream.

_Mode_.--Boil the eggs hard, shell them, throw them into cold water cut
a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them in
the dish, cut each one into four lengthwise, and make a very thin flat
border of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad is
to be served on; fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other, the
yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately; lay in the centre a
fresh salad of whatever is in season, and, having previously roasted the
grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and prepare
the sauce as follows:--Put the shalots into a basin, with the sugar, the
yolk of an egg, the parsley, and salt, and mix in by degrees the oil and
vinegar; when these ingredients are well mixed, put the sauce on ice or
in a cool place. When ready to serve, whip the cream rather thick, which
lightly mix with it; then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the
salad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and
the remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve.
The eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of radishes or beetroot on
the point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds, may be placed
between, or cut gherkins in slices, and a border of them laid round.
Tarragon or chervil-leaves are also a pretty addition. The remains of
cold black-game, pheasant, or partridge may be used in the above manner,
and will make a very delicate dish.

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.

[Illustration: THE CAPERCALZIE.]

    THE CAPERCALZIE.--This bird was to be met with formerly both in
    Ireland and Scotland, but is now extinct. The male lives
    separate from the females, except in the breeding season. Its
    manners and habits are very like those of black grouse, except
    that it seems to be wholly confined to forests of pine, on the
    tender shoots of which it feeds. It is by no means uncommon in
    the woods of Norway, whence we received it. It is also found
    abundant in Russia, Siberia, Italy, and in some portions of the
    Alps. It was, in 1760, last seen in Scotland, in the woods of
    Strathglass. Recent attempts have been made to re-introduce it
    into that country, but without success; principally owing, as we
    should imagine, to the want of sufficient food suitable for its
    sustenance.

    GROUSE.--Under this general term are included several species of
    game birds, called black, red, woodland, and white grouse. The
    black is larger than the red (see No. 1025), and is not so
    common, and therefore held in higher estimation. The red,
    however, is a bird of exquisite flavour, and is a native of the
    mountainous districts of Scotland and the north of England. It
    feeds on the tops of the heath and the berries that grow amongst
    them: its colour is a rich chestnut, striped with black. The
    woodland, or cock of the wood, is the largest among the bird
    tribes which pass under the denomination of game. It is smaller
    than the turkey, and was originally common in our mountains; but
    it is now to be found only in the mountains of Scotland, though
    it still abounds in the north of Europe, Germany, and in the
    Alps. It is esteemed as delicious eating, and its plumage is
    extremely beautiful. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is not a
    plentiful bird in Britain; but it is still found in the islands,
    and weighs about half a pound. The London market is supplied by
    Norway and Scotland; those from the former country being
    esteemed the best. When young, it is held in high estimation,
    being considered as little different from common grouse.

ROAST HARE.

1027. INGREDIENTS.--Hare, forcemeat No. 417, a little milk, butter.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose a young hare; which may be known by its
smooth and sharp claws, and by the cleft in the lip not being much
spread. To be eaten in perfection, it must hang for some time; and, if
properly taken care of, it may be kept for several days. It is better to
hang without being paunched; but should it be previously emptied, wipe
the inside every day, and sprinkle over it a little pepper and ginger,
to prevent the musty taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, and
which also affects the stuffing. After it is skinned, wash it well, and
soak for an hour in warm water to draw out the blood; if old, let it lie
in vinegar for a short time, but wash it well afterwards in several
waters. Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, wipe the hare dry, fill the
belly with it, and sew it up. Bring the hind and fore legs close to the
body towards the head, run a skewer through each, fix the head between
the shoulders by means of another skewer, and be careful to leave the
ears on. Pat a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and tie it
above the back.

[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]

_Mode_.--The hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it is
first laid down, or the outside will become dry and hard before the
inside is done. Baste it well with milk for a short time, and afterwards
with butter; and particular attention must be paid to the basting, so as
to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost
roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When nicely
frothed, dish it, remove the skewers, and send it to table with a little
gravy in the dish, and a tureen of the same. Red-currant jelly must also
not be forgotten, as this is an indispensable accompaniment to roast
hare. For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for the milk
and butter to baste with; but the basting, as we have before stated,
must be continued without intermission. If the liver is good, it maybe
parboiled, minced, and mixed with the stuffing; but it should not be
used unless quite fresh.--See coloured plate, E1.

_Time_.--A middling-sized hare, 1-1/4 hour; a large hare, 1-1/2 to 2
hours.

_Average cost_, from 4s. to 6s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.


THE HARE.--This little animal is found generally distributed over
Europe, and, indeed, in most parts of the northern world. Its extreme
timidity is the endowment which Providence has bestowed upon it as a
means of defence; it is therefore attentive to every sound, and is
supplied with ears both long and tubular, with which it can hear with
great acuteness. Its eyes, also, are so constructed, and placed so
prominent in its head, that it can see both before and behind it. It
lives entirely upon vegetables, but its flesh is considered dry,
notwithstanding that it is deemed, in many respects, superior to that of
the rabbit, being more savoury, and of a much higher flavour. Its
general time of feeding is the evening; but during the day, if not
disturbed, it adheres closely to its _form_.

[Illustration: THE HARE.]

POTTED HARE (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish).

1028. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch of
savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 carrots, 2
onions, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry.

_Mode_.--Skin, empty, and wash the hare; cut it down the middle, and put
it into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under and over it; add the
remaining ingredients, and stew very gently until the hare is tender,
and the flesh will separate easily from the bones. When done enough,
take it up, remove the bones, and pound the meat, _with the bacon_, in a
mortar, until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Should it not be
sufficiently seasoned, add a little cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, but
be careful that these are well mixed with the other ingredients. Press
the meat into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep in a
dry place. The liquor that the hare was stewed in, should be saved for
hashes, soups, &c. &c.

_Time_.--About 21/2 hours to stew the hare.

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.


BROILED HARE (a Supper or Luncheon Dish).

1029. INGREDIENTS.--The leg and shoulders of a roast hare, cayenne and
salt to taste, a little butter.

_Mode_.--Cut the legs and shoulders of a roast hare, season them highly
with salt and cayenne, and broil them over a very clear fire for 5
minutes. Dish them on a hot dish, rub over them a little cold butter,
and send to table very quickly.

_Time_.--5 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.


HASHED HARE.

1030. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast hare, 1 blade of pounded
mace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of
savoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port wine, thickening of butter and
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut the cold hare into neat slices, and put the head, bones,
and trimmings into a stewpan, with 3/4 pint of water; add the mace,
allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, and
strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour, add the wine and
ketchup, and lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing that may be
left. Let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire, and, when it
has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, and garnish the dish with
sippets of toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to table with it.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold hare, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.


JUGGED HARE.

(_Very Good_.)

1031. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, 1-1/2 lb. of gravy beef, 1/2 lb. of butter,
1 onion, 1 lemon, 6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1/2 pint
of port wine.

_Mode_.--Skin, paunch, and wash the hare, cut it into pieces, dredge
them with flour, and fry in boiling butter. Have ready 1-1/2 pint of
gravy, made from the above proportion of beef, and thickened with a
little flour. Put this into a jar; add the pieces of fried hare, an
onion stuck with six cloves, a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a good
seasoning of pepper, cayenne, and salt; cover the jar down tightly, put
it up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water, and let it stew until
the hare is quite tender, taking care to keep the water boiling. When
nearly done, pour in the wine, and add a few forcemeat balls, made by
recipe No. 417: these must be fried or baked in the oven for a few
minutes before they are put to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly.

_Time_,--3-1/2 to 4 hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 7s.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.


II.

(_A Quicker and more Economical Way_.)

1032. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each stuck
with 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of black pepper, a
strip of lemon-peel, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup, 1/4 pint of port wine.

_Mode._--Wash the hare nicely, cut it up into joints (not too large),
and flour and brown them as in the preceding recipe; then put them into
a stewpan with the herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, and
lemon-peel; cover with hot water, and when it boils, carefully remove
all the scum, and let it simmer gently till tender, which will be in
about 1-3/4 hour, or longer, should the hare be very old. Take out the
pieces of hare, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the ketchup
and port wine, let it boil for about 10 minutes, strain it through a
sieve over the hare, and serve. A few fried forcemeat balls should be
added at the moment of serving, or instead of frying them, they may be
stewed in the gravy, about 10 minutes before the hare is wanted for
table. Do not omit to serve red-currant jelly with it.

_Time_.--Altogether 2 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.

_Note_.--Should there be any left, rewarm it the next day by putting the
hare, &c. into a covered jar, and placing this jar in a saucepan of
boiling water: this method prevents a great deal of waste.


ROAST LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.

1033. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 birds, butter, fried bread crumbs.

[Illustration: LANDRAILS.]

_Mode_.--Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with damp
cloths, and truss them in the following manner:--Bring the head round
under the wing, and the thighs close to the sides; pass a skewer through
them and the body, and keep the legs straight. Roast them before a clear
fire, keep them well basted, and serve on fried bread crumbs, with a
tureen of brown gravy. When liked, bread-sauce may also be sent to table
with them.

_Time_.--12 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_,--Seldom bought.

_Sufficient_.--Allow--1 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from August 12th to the middle of September.

[Illustration: THE LANDRAIL.]

    THE LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.--This bird is migratory in its
    habits, yet from its formation, it seems ill adapted for long
    aërial passages, its wings being short, and placed so forward
    out of the centre of gravity, that it flies in an extremely
    heavy and embarrassed manner, and with its legs hanging down.
    When it alights, it can hardly be sprung a second time, as it
    runs very fast, and seems to depend for its safety more on the
    swiftness of its feet than the celerity of its wings. It makes
    its appearance in England about the same time as the quail, that
    is, in the months of April and May, and frequents the same
    places. Its singular cry is first heard when the grass becomes
    long enough to shelter it, and it continues to be heard until
    the grass is cut. The bird, however, is seldom seen, for it
    constantly skulks among the thickest portions of the herbage,
    and runs so nimbly through it, doubling and winding in every
    direction, that it is difficult to get near it. It leaves this
    island before the winter, and repairs to other countries in
    search of its food, which principally consists of slugs, large
    numbers of which it destroys. It is very common in Ireland, and,
    whilst migrating to this country, is seen in great numbers in
    the island of Anglesea. On its first arrival in England, it is
    so lean as scarcely to weigh above five or six ounces; before
    its departure, however, it has been known to exceed eight
    ounces, and is then most delicious eating.

TO DRESS A LEVERET.

1034. INGREDIENTS.--2 leverets, butter, flour.

_Mode_.--Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare, but
they do not require stuffing. Roast them before a clear fire, and keep
them well basted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes before
serving, dredge them lightly with flour, and froth them nicely. Serve
with plain gravy in the dish, and send to table red-currant jelly with
them.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, in full season, 4s. each.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from May to August, but cheapest in July and August.


BROILED PARTRIDGE (a Luncheon, Breakfast, or Supper Dish).

1035. INGREDIENTS.--3 partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a small
piece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce.

_Mode_.--Pluck, draw, and cut the partridges in half, and wipe the
inside thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season them with salt and cayenne,
broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish; rub a
small piece of butter over each half, and send them to table with brown
gravy or mushroom sauce.

_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.


PARTRIDGE PIE.

1036. INGREDIENTS.--3 partridges, pepper and salt to taste, 1
teaspoonful of minced parsley (when obtainable, a few mushrooms), 3/4
lb. of veal cutlet, a slice of ham, 1/2 pint of stock, puff paste.

_Mode_.--Line a pie-dish with a veal cutlet; over that place a slice of
ham and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw, and wipe the
partridges; cut off the legs at the first joint, and season them inside
with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a small piece of butter; place
them in the dish, and pour over the stock; line the edges of the dish
with puff paste, cover with the same, brush it over with the yolk of an
egg, and bake for 3/4 to 1 hour.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.


Note.--Should the partridges be very large, split them in half; they
will then lie in the dish more compactly. When at hand, a few mushrooms
should always be added.


POTTED PARTRIDGE.

1037. INGREDIENTS.--Partridges; seasoning to taste of mace, allspice
white pepper, and salt; butter, coarse paste.

_Mode_.--Pluck and draw the birds, and wipe them inside with a damp
cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt; mix
together, and rub every part of the partridges with this. Pack the birds
as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of butter over them,
and cover with a coarse flour and water crust. Tie a paper over this,
and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour; let the birds get cold, then
cut them into pieces for keeping, pack them closely into a large
potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be kept in a
cool dry place. The butter used for potted things will answer for
basting, or for paste for meat pies.--See coloured plate, D1.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.


SALMI DE PERDRIX, or HASHED PARTRIDGES.

1038. INGREDIENTS.--3 young partridges, 3 shalots, a slice of lean ham,
1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 cloves, 6 whole
peppers, 3/4 pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small lump
of sugar.

_Mode_.--After the partridges are plucked and drawn, roast them rather
underdone, and cover them with paper, as they should not be browned; cut
them into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs, and breasts;
put these into a stewpan, cover them up, and set by until the gravy is
ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put them, with the
carrots sliced, the shalots, mushrooms, herbs, cloves, and pepper, into
a stewpan; fry them lightly in a little butter, pour in the stock, add
the bones and trimming from the partridges, and simmer for 1/4 hour.
Strain the gravy, let it cool, and skim off every particle of fat; put
it to the legs, wings, and breasts, add a glass of sherry or Madeira and
a small lump of sugar, let all gradually warm through by the side of the
fire, and when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with
croûtons. The remains of roast partridge answer very well dressed in
this way, although not so good as when the birds are in the first
instance only half-roasted. This recipe is equally suitable for
pheasants, moor-game, &c.; but care must be taken always to skin the
joints.

_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour.

_Sufficient_.--2 or 3 partridges for an entrée.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.


ROAST PARTRIDGE.

1039. INGREDIENTS.--Partridge; butter.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose young birds, with dark-coloured bills
and yellowish legs, and let them hang a few days, or there will be no
flavour to the flesh, nor will it be tender. The time they should be
kept, entirely depends on the taste of those for whom they are intended,
as what some persons would consider delicious, would be to others
disgusting and offensive. They may be trussed with or without the head,
the latter mode being now considered the most fashionable. Pluck, draw,
and wipe the partridge carefully inside and out; cut off the head,
leaving sufficient skin on the neck to skewer back; bring the legs close
to the breast, between it and the side-bones, and pass a skewer through
the pinions and the thick part of the thighs. When the head is left on,
it should be brought round and fixed on to the point of the skewer.

[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGE.]

_Mode_.--When the bird is firmly and plumply trussed, roast it before a
nice bright fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before serving,
flour and froth it well. Dish it, and serve with gravy and bread sauce,
and send to table hot and quickly. A little of the gravy should be
poured over the bird.--See coloured plate, D1.

_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, is 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.

[Illustration: PARTRIDGES.]

    THE PARTRIDGE.--This bird is to be found in nearly all the
    temperate countries of Europe, but is most abundant in the
    Ukraine, although it is unable to bear the extremes of climate,
    whether hot or cold. It was formerly very common in France, and
    is considered a table luxury in England. The instinct of this
    bird is frequently exemplified in a remarkable manner, for the
    preservation of its young. "I have seen it often," says a very
    celebrated writer, and an accurate observer of nature, "and once
    in particular, I saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird's
    solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting with a young
    pointer, the dog ran on a brood of very small partridges; the
    old bird cried, fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before
    the dog's nose, till she had drawn him to a considerable
    distance, when she took wing, and flew still further off, but
    not out of the field; on this the dog returned to me, near the
    place where the young ones lay concealed in the grass, which the
    old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled
    just before the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling
    about, drew off his attention from her young, and thus preserved
    her brood a second time. I have also seen, when a kite has been
    hovering over a covey of young partridges, the old birds fly up
    at the bird of prey, screaming and fighting with all their might
    to preserve their brood." Partridges should be chosen young; if
    old, they are valueless. The young ones are generally known by
    their yellow legs and dark-coloured bills.

PHEASANT CUTLETS.

1040. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 pheasants, egg and bread crumbs, cayenne and
salt to taste, brown gravy.

_Mode_.--Procure 3 young pheasants that have been hung a few days;
pluck, draw, and wipe them inside; cut them into joints; remove the
bones from the best of these; and the backbones, trimmings, &c., put
into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, vegetables, seasoning, &c.,
to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets of a good shape, egg and
bread crumb them, broil them over a clear fire, pile them high in the
dish, and pour under them the gravy made from the bones, which should be
strained, flavoured, and thickened. One of the small bones should be
stuck on the point of each cutlet.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. each.

_Sufficient_ for 2 entrées.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.


ROAST PHEASANT.

1041. INGREDIENTS.--Pheasant, flour, butter.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Old pheasants may be known by the length and
sharpness of their spurs; in young ones they are short and blunt. The
cock bird is generally reckoned the best, except when the hen is with
egg. They should hang some time before they are dressed, as, if they are
cooked fresh, the flesh will be exceedingly dry and tasteless. After the
bird is plucked and drawn, wipe the inside with a damp cloth, and truss
it in the same manner as partridge, No. 1039. If the head is left on, as
shown in the engraving, bring it round under the wing, and fix it on to
the point of the skewer.

[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]

_Mode_.--Roast it before a brisk fire, keep it well basted, and flour
and froth it nicely. Serve with brown gravy, a little of which should be
poured round the bird, and a tureen of bread sauce. 2 or 3 of the
pheasant's best tail-feathers are sometimes stuck in the tail as an
ornament; but the fashion is not much to be commended.--See coloured
plate, F1.

_Time_.--1/2 to 1 hour, according to the size.

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. each. _Sufficient_,--1 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.

[Illustration: THE PHEASANT.]

    THE PHEASANT.--This beautiful bird is said to have been
    discovered by the Argonauts on the banks of the Phasis, near
    Mount Ararat, in their expedition to Colchis. It is common,
    however, in almost all the southern parts of the European
    continent, and has been long naturalized in the warmest and most
    woody counties of England. It is very common in France; indeed,
    so common as to be esteemed a nuisance by the farmers. Although
    it has been domesticated, this is not easily accomplished, nor
    is its flesh so palatable then as it is in the wild state. Mr.
    Ude says--"It is not often that pheasants are met with
    possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long
    keeping, as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept
    as long as they are in other countries. The hens, in general,
    are the most delicate. The cocks show their age by their spurs.
    They are only fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run from
    the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have
    been killed. The flesh is white, tender, and has a good flavour,
    if you keep it long enough; if not, it is not much different
    from that of a common fowl or hen."

BRILLAT SAVARIN'S RECIPE FOR ROAST PHEASANT, a la Sainte Alliance.

1042. When the pheasant is in good condition to be cooked (_see_ No.
1041), it should be plucked, and not before. The bird should then be
stuffed in the following manner:--Take two snipes, and draw them,
putting the bodies on one plate, and the livers, &c., on another. Take
off the flesh, and mince it finely with a little beef, lard, a few
truffles, pepper and salt to taste, and stuff the pheasant carefully
with this. Cut a slice of bread, larger considerably than the bird, and
cover it with the liver, &c., and a few truffles: an anchovy and a
little fresh butter added to these will do no harm. Put the bread, &c.,
into the dripping-pan, and, when the bird is roasted, place it on the
preparation, and surround it with Florida oranges.

Do not be uneasy, Savarin adds, about your dinner; for a pheasant served
in this way is fit for beings better than men. The pheasant itself is a
very good bird; and, imbibing the dressing and the flavour of the
truffle and snipe, it becomes thrice better.


BROILED PHEASANT (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish).

1043. INGREDIENTS.--1 pheasant, a little lard, egg and bread crumbs,
salt and cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the legs off at the first joint, and the remainder of the
bird into neat pieces; put them into a fryingpan with a little lard, and
when browned on both sides, and about half done, take them out and drain
them; brush the pieces over with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs
with which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. Broil
them over a moderate fire for about 10 minutes, or rather longer, and
serve with mushroom-sauce, sauce piquante, or brown gravy, in which a
few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.

    THE HEIGHT OF EXCELLENCE IN A PHEASANT.--Things edible have
    their degrees of excellence under various circumstances: thus,
    asparagus, capers, peas, and partridges are best when young.
    Perfection in others is only reached when they attain maturity:
    let us say, for example, melons and nearly all fruits (we must
    except, perhaps, the medlar), with the majority of those animals
    whose flesh we eat. But others, again, are not good until
    decomposition is about to set in; and here we may mention
    particularly the snipe and the pheasant. If the latter bird be
    eaten so soon as three days after it has been killed, it then
    has no peculiarity of flavour; a pullet would be more relished,
    and a quail would surpass it in aroma. Kept, however, a proper
    length of time,--and this can be ascertained by a slight smell
    and change of colour,--then it becomes a highly, flavoured dish,
    occupying, so to speak, the middle distance between chicken and
    venison. It is difficult to define any exact time to "hang" a
    pheasant; but any one possessed of the instincts of
    gastronomical science, can at once detect the right moment when
    a pheasant should be taken down, in the same way as a good cook
    knows whether a bird should be removed from the spit, or have a
    turn or two more.

TO DRESS PLOVERS.

1044. INGREDIENTS.--3 plovers, butter, flour, toasted bread.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose those that feel hard at the vent, as
that shows their fatness. There are three sorts,--the grey, green, and
bastard plover, or lapwing. They will keep good for some time, but if
very stale, the feet will be very dry. Plovers are scarcely fit for
anything but roasting; they are, however, sometimes stewed, or made into
a ragoût, but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended.

_Mode_.--Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with a
damp cloth, and do not draw them; truss with the head under the wing,
put them down to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened toast in the
dripping-pan, to catch the trail. Keep them _well basted_, dredge them
lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done, and let them be
nicely frothed. Dish them on the toasts, over which the _trail_ should
be equally spread. Pour round the toast a little good gravy, and send
some to table in a tureen.

_Time_.--10 minutes to 1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. the brace, if plentiful.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.

_Seasonable_.--In perfection from the beginning of September to the end
of January.

    THE PLOVER.--There are two species of this bird, the grey and
    the green, the former being larger than the other, and somewhat
    less than the woodcock. It has generally been classed with those
    birds which chiefly live in the water; but it would seem only to
    seek its food there, for many of the species breed upon the
    loftiest mountains. Immense flights of these birds are to be
    seen in the Hebrides, and other parts of Scotland; and, in the
    winter, large numbers are sent to the London market, which is
    sometimes so much glutted with them that they are sold very
    cheap. Previous to dressing, they are kept till they have a game
    flavour; and although their flesh is a favourite with many, it
    is not universally relished. The green is preferred to the grey,
    but both are inferior to the woodcock. Their eggs are esteemed
    as a great delicacy. Birds of this kind are migratory. They
    arrive in England in April, live with us all the spring and
    summer, and at the beginning of autumn prepare to take leave by
    getting together in flocks. It is supposed that they then retire
    to Spain, and frequent the sheep-walks with which that country
    abounds.

[Illustration: THE PLOVER.]

TO DRESS THE PTARMIGAN.

1045. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 birds; butter, flour, fried bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--The ptarmigan, or white grouse, when young and tender, are
exceedingly fine eating, and should be kept as long as possible, to be
good. Pluck, draw, and truss them in the same manner as grouse, No.
1025, and roast them before a brisk fire. Flour and froth them nicely,
and serve on buttered toast, with a tureen of brown gravy. Bread sauce,
when liked, may be sent to table with them, and fried bread crumbs
substituted for the toasted bread.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of February to the end of April.

    THE PTARMIGAN, OR WHITE GROUSE.--This bird is nearly the same
    size as red grouse, and is fond of lofty situations, where it
    braves the severest weather, and is found in most parts of
    Europe, as well as in Greenland. At Hudson's Bay they appear in
    such multitudes that so many as sixty or seventy are frequently
    taken at once in a net. As they are as tame as chickens, this is
    done without difficulty. Buffon says that the Ptarmigan avoids
    the solar heat, and prefers the frosts of the summits of the
    mountains; for, as the snow melts on the sides of the mountains,
    it ascends till it gains the top, where it makes a hole, and
    burrows in the snow. In winter, it flies in flocks, and feeds on
    the wild vegetation of the hills, which imparts to its flesh a
    bitter, but not altogether an unpalatable taste. It is
    dark-coloured, and has something of the flavour of the hare, and
    is greatly relished, and much sought after by some sportsmen.

[Illustration: THE PTARMIGAN.]

TO DRESS QUAILS.

1046. INGREDIENTS.--Quails, butter, toast.

_Mode_.--These birds keep good several days, and should be roasted
without drawing. Truss them in the same manner as woodcocks, No. 1062;
roast them before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and serve on
toast.

_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_.--Seldom bought.

_Sufficient_ 2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from October to December.

[Illustration: THE QUAIL.]

    THE QUAIL.--Quails are almost universally diffused over Europe,
    Asia, and Africa. Being birds of passage, they are seen in
    immense flocks, traversing the Mediterranean Sea from Europe to
    Africa, in the autumn, and returning again in the spring,
    frequently alighting in their passage on many of the islands of
    the Archipelago, which, with their vast numbers, they almost
    completely cover. On the western coasts of the kingdom of
    Naples, they have appeared in such prodigious numbers, that,
    within the compass of four or five miles, as many as a hundred
    thousand have been taken in a day. "From these circumstances,"
    says a writer on natural history, "it appears highly probable
    that the quails which supplied the Israelites with food during
    their journey through the wilderness, were sent thither, on
    their passage to the north, by a wind from the south-west,
    sweeping over Egypt and Ethiopia towards the shores of the Red
    Sea." In England they are not very numerous, although they breed
    in it; and many of them are said to remain throughout the year,
    changing their quarters from the interior parts of the country
    for the seacoast.

TO DRESS SNIPES.

1047. INGREDIENTS.--Snipes, butter, flour, toast.

_Mode_.--These, like woodcocks, should be dressed without being drawn.
Pluck, and wipe them outside, and truss them with the head under the
wing, having previously skinned that and the neck. Twist the legs at the
first joint, press the feet upon the thighs, and pass a skewer through
these and the body. Place four on a skewer, tie them on to the jack or
spit, and roast before a clear fire for about 1/4 hour. Put some pieces
of buttered toast into the dripping-pan to catch the trails; flour and
froth the birds nicely, dish the pieces of toast with the snipes on
them, and pour round, but not over them, a little good brown gravy. They
should be sent to table very hot and expeditiously, or they will not be
worth eating.--See coloured plate M1.

[Illustration: ROAST SNIPE.]

_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. the brace.

_Sufficient_,--4 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from November to February.

_Note_.--Ortolans are trussed and dressed in the same manner.

[Illustration: THE SNIPE.]

    THE SNIPE.--This is a migratory bird, and is generally
    distributed over Europe. It is found in most parts of England,
    in the high as well as the low lands, depending much on the
    weather. In very wet seasons it resorts to the hills, but at
    other times frequents marshes, where it can penetrate the earth
    with its bill, hunting for worms, which form its principal food.
    In the Hebrides and the Orkneys snipes are plentiful, and they
    are fattest in frosty weather. In the breeding season the snipe
    changes its note entirely from that which it has in the winter.
    The male will keep on wing for an hour together, mounting like a
    lark, and uttering a shrill piping noise; then, with a bleating
    sound, not unlike that made by an old goat, it will descend with
    great velocity, especially if the female be sitting in her nest,
    from which it will not wander far.

ROAST TEAL.

1048. INGREDIENTS.--Teal, butter, a little flour.

_Mode_.--Choose fat plump birds, after the frost has set in, as they are
generally better flavoured; truss them in the same manner as wild duck,
No. 1022; roast them before a brisk fire, and keep them well basted.
Serve with brown or orange gravy, water-cresses, and a cut lemon. The
remains of teal make excellent hash.

_Time_.--From 9 to 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. each; but seldom bought.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.


ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.

1049. INGREDIENTS.--Venison, coarse flour-and-water paste, a little
flour.

_Mode_.--Choose a haunch with clear, bright, and thick fat, and the
cleft of the hoof smooth and close; the greater quantity of fat there
is, the better quality will the meat be. As many people object to
venison when it has too much _haut goût_, ascertain how long it has been
kept, by running a sharp skewer into the meat close to the bone; when
this is withdrawn, its sweetness can be judged of. With care and
attention, it will keep good a fortnight, unless the weather is very
mild. Keep it perfectly dry by wiping it with clean cloths till not the
least damp remains, and sprinkle over powdered ginger or pepper, as a
preventative against the fly. When required for use, wash it in warm
water, and _dry_ it _well_ with a cloth; butter a sheet of white paper,
put it over the fat, lay a coarse paste, about 1/2 inch in thickness,
over this, and then a sheet or two of strong paper. Tie the whole firmly
on to the haunch with twine, and put the joint down to a strong close
fire; baste the venison immediately, to prevent the paper and string
from burning, and continue this operation, without intermission, the
whole of the time it is cooking. About 20 minutes before it is done,
carefully remove the paste and paper, dredge the joint with flour, and
baste well with _butter_ until it is nicely frothed, and of a nice
pale-brown colour; garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper,
and serve with a good, strong, but unflavoured gravy, in a tureen, and
currant jelly; or melt the jelly with a little port wine, and serve that
also in a tureen. As the principal object in roasting venison is to
preserve the fat, the above is the best mode of doing so where expense
is not objected to; but, in ordinary cases, the paste may be dispensed
with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead: it will not
require so long cooking without the paste. Do not omit to send very hot
plates to table, as the venison fat so soon freezes: to be thoroughly
enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The neck
and shoulder may be roasted in the same manner.

[Illustration: ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.]

_Time_.--A large haunch of buck venison, with the paste, 4 to 5 hours;
haunch of doe venison, 3-1/4 to 3-3/4 hours. Allow less time without the
paste.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 18 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Buck venison in greatest perfection from June to
Michaelmas; doe venison from November to the end of January.

    THE DEER.--This active tribe of animals principally inhabit wild
    and woody regions. In their contentions, both with each other
    and the rest of the brute creation, these animals not only use
    their horns, but strike very furiously with their fore feet.
    Some of the species are employed as beasts of draught, whilst
    the flesh of the whole is wholesome, and that of some of the
    kinds, under the name of "venison," is considered very
    delicious. Persons fond of hunting have invented peculiar terms
    by which the objects of their pursuit are characterized: thus
    the stag is called, the first year, a _calf_, or _hind-calf_;
    the second, a _knobber_; the third, a _brock_; the fourth, a
    _staggard_; the fifth, a _stag_; and the sixth, a _hart_. The
    female is, the first year, called a _calf_; the second, a
    _hearse_; and the third, a _hind_. In Britain, the stag has
    become scarcer than it formerly was; but, in the Highlands of
    Scotland, herds of four or five hundred may still be seen,
    ranging over the vast mountains of the north; and some of the
    stags of a great size. In former times, the great feudal
    chieftains used to hunt with all the pomp of eastern sovereigns,
    assembling some thousands of their clans, who drove the deer
    into the toils, or to such stations as were occupied by their
    chiefs. As this sport, however, was occasionally used as a means
    for collecting their vassals together for the purpose of
    concocting rebellion, an act was passed prohibitory of such
    assemblages. In the "Waverley" of Sir Walter Scott, a
    deer-hunting scene of this kind is admirably described.

    VENISON.--This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of
    deer, and is esteemed as very delicious. Different species of
    deer are found in warm as well as cold climates, and are in
    several instances invaluable to man. This is especially the case
    with the Laplander, whose reindeer constitutes a large
    proportion of his wealth. There--

      "The reindeer unharness'd in freedom can play,
      And safely o'er Odin's steep precipice stray,
      Whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly,
      And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky."

    In that country it is the substitute for the horse, the cow, the
    goat, and the sheep. From its milk is produced cheese; from its
    skin, clothing; from its tendons, bowstrings and thread; from
    its horns, glue; from its bones, spoons; and its flesh furnishes
    food. In England we have the stag, an animal of great beauty,
    and much admired. He is a native of many parts of Europe, and is
    supposed to have been originally introduced into this country
    from France. About a century back he was to be found wild in
    some of the rough and mountainous parts of Wales, as well as in
    the forests of Exmoor, in Devonshire, and the woods on the banks
    of the Tamar. In the middle ages the deer formed food for the
    not over abstemious monks, as represented by Friar Tuck's
    larder, in the admirable fiction of "Ivanhoe;" and at a later
    period it was a deer-stealing adventure that drove the
    "ingenious" William Shakspeare to London, to become a common
    player, and the greatest dramatist that ever lived.

HASHED VENISON.

1050. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of roast venison, its own or mutton
gravy, thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and, if there is
sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it is
preferable to any other. Should there not be enough, put the bones and
trimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of mutton gravy; let them
stew gently for an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a little flour and
butter into the stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add the
strained gravy, and give it a boil up; skim and strain again, and, when
a little cool, put in the slices of venison. Place the stewpan by the
side of the fire, and, when on the point of simmering, serve: do not
allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Send red-currant jelly to
table with it.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from
November to the end of January.

_Note_.--A small quantity of Harvey's sauce, ketchup, or port wine, may
be added to enrich the gravy: these ingredients must, however, be used
very sparingly, or they will overpower the flavour of the venison.

[Illustration: FALLOW-DEER (BUCK). FALLOW-DEER (DOE).]

    THE FALLOW-DEER.--This is the domestic or park deer; and no two
    animals can make a nearer approach to each other than the stag
    and it, and yet no two animals keep more distinct, or avoid each
    other with a more inveterate animosity. They never herd or
    intermix together, and consequently never give rise to an
    intermediate race; it is even rare, unless they have been
    transported thither, to find fellow-deer in a country where
    stags are numerous. He is very easily tamed, and feeds upon many
    things which the stag refuses: he also browzes closer than the
    stag, and preserves his venison better. The doe produces one
    fawn, sometimes two, but rarely three. In short, they resemble
    the stag in all his natural habits, and the greatest difference
    between them is the duration of their lives: the stag, it is
    said, lives to the age of thirty-five or forty years, and the
    fallow-deer does not live more than twenty. As they are smaller
    than the stag, it is probable that their growth is sooner
    completed.

STEWED VENISON.

1051. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of venison, a few slices of mutton fat, 2
glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1-1/2 pint of weak
stock or gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/2 teaspoonful of
whole allspice.

_Mode_.--Hang the venison till tender; take out the bone, flatten the
meat with a rolling-pin, and place over it a few slices of mutton fat,
which have been previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine;
sprinkle these with a little fine allspice and pepper, roll the meat up,
and bind and tie it securely. Put it into a stewpan with the bone and
the above proportion of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, black
pepper, and port wine; cover the lid down closely, and simmer, very
gently, from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, and
dish the meat; strain the gravy over it, and send it to table with
red-currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fat, the above is the best
mode of cooking it.

_Time_.--3-1/2 to 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from
November to the end of January.

[Illustration: THE ROEBUCK.]

    THE ROEBUCK.--This is the _Certuscapreolus_, or common roe, and
    is of a reddish-brown colour. It is an inhabitant of Asia, as
    well as of Europe. It has great grace in its movements, and
    stands about two feet seven inches high, and has a length of
    about three feet nine. The extent of its horns is from six to
    eight inches.

[Illustration: THE STAG. THE HIND.]

    THE STAG.--The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and
    the hind is the female. He is much larger than the fallow-deer,
    and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round instead
    of being palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the
    first year he has no horns, but a horny excrescence, which is
    short and rough, and covered with a thin hairy skin. The next
    year, the horns are single and straight; and in the third they
    have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five the
    sixth year; although this number is not always certain, for
    sometimes they are more, and often less. After the sixth year,
    the antlers do not always increase; and, although in number they
    may amount to six or seven on each side, yet the animal's age is
    then estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the
    thickness of the branch which sustains them, than by their
    variety. Large as these horns seem, however, they are shed every
    year, and their place supplied by new ones. This usually takes
    place in the spring. When the old horns have fallen off, the new
    ones do not make their appearance immediately; but the bones of
    the skull ore seen covered with a transparent periosteum, or
    skin, which enwraps the bones of all animals. After a short
    time, however, the skin begins to swell, and to form a sort of
    tumour. From this, by-and-by, rising from the head, shoot forth
    the antlers from each side; and, in a short time, in proportion
    as the animal is in condition, the entire horns are completed.
    The solidity of the extremities, however, is not perfect until
    the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually
    shed their horns first, which generally happens towards the
    latter end of February or the beginning of March. Such as are
    between five and six years old shed them about the middle or
    latter end of March; those still younger in the month of April;
    and the youngest of all not till the middle or latter end of
    May. These rules, though generally true, are subject to
    variations; for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the
    horns.--The HIND has no horns, and is less fitted for being
    hunted than the male. She takes the greatest care of her young,
    and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they become
    a prey to their numerous enemies. All the rapacious family of
    the cat kind, with the wolf, the dog, the eagle, and the falcon,
    are continually endeavouring to find her retreat, whilst the
    stag himself is the foe of his own offspring. When she has
    young, therefore, it would seem that the courage of the male is
    transferred to the female, for she defends them with the most
    resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter, she will fly before
    the hounds for half the day, and then return to her young, whose
    life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her own.

[Illustration: ELAND (BULL). ELAND (COW).]

    THE NEW VENISON.--The deer population of our splendid English
    parks was, until a few years since, limited to two species, the
    fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer itself was an
    acclimated animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came
    to be a question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park
    in England have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of
    deer and antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes, and
    rich pastures of his domain? The temperate regions of the whole
    world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant,
    valuable either for their individual beauty, or for their
    availability to gastronomic purposes.

    During the last four or live years a few spirited English
    noblemen have made the experiment of breeding foreign deer in
    their parks, and have obtained such a decided success, that it
    may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a
    course which will eventually give to England's rural scenery a
    new element of beauty, and to English tables a fresh viand of
    the choicest character.

    A practical solution of this interesting question was made by
    Viscount Hill, at Hawkestone Park, Salop, in January, 1809. On
    that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated scion of the
    species whose native home is the South African wilderness, was
    killed for the table. The noble beast was thus described:--"He
    weighed 1,176 lbs. as he dropped; huge as a short-horn, but with
    bone not half the size; active as a deer, stately in all his
    paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dewlap,
    and strong sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode
    majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with his mates and
    their progeny, all English-born, like himself." Three pairs of
    the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the
    picturesque elopes throughout the day, and to return to their
    home at pleasure. "Here, during winter, they are assisted with
    roots and hay, but in summer they have nothing but the pasture
    of the park; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more
    than cattle of the best description." Travellers and sportsmen
    say that the male eland is unapproached in the quality of his
    flesh by any ruminant in South Africa; that it grows to an
    enormous size, and lays on fat with as great facility as a true
    short-horn; while in texture and flavour it is infinitely
    superior. The lean is remarkably fine, the fat firm and
    delicate. It was tried in every fashion,--braised brisket,
    roasted ribs, broiled steaks, filet sauté, boiled aitchbone,
    &c.,--and in all, gave evidence of the fact, that a new meat of
    surpassing value had been added to the products of the English
    park.

    When we hear such a gratifying account of the eland, it is
    pleasing to record that Lord Hastings has a herd of the Canadian
    wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another of the small
    Indian hog-deer; that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in
    breeding the magnificent Persian deer. The eland was first
    acclimated in England by the late Earl of Derby, between the
    years 1835-1851, at his menagerie at Knowsley. On his death, in
    1851, he bequeathed to the Zoological Society his breed of
    elands, consisting of two males and three females. Here the
    animals have been treated with the greatest success, and from
    the year 1853 to the present time, the females have regularly
    reproduced, without the loss of a single calf.

ROAST WIDGEON.

1052. INGREDIENTS.--Widgeons, a little flour, butter.

_Mode_.--These are trussed in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022,
but must not be kept so long before they are dressed. Put them down to a
brisk fire; flour, and baste them continually with butter, and, when
browned and nicely frothed, send them to table hot and quickly. Serve
with brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a cut lemon.

_Time_.--1/4 hour; if liked well done, 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. each; but seldom bought.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.

[Illustration: ROAST WOODCOCK.]

ROAST WOODCOCK.

1053. INGREDIENTS.--Woodcocks; butter, flour, toast.

_Mode_.--Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trails are, by epicures,
considered a great delicacy. Pluck, and wipe them well outside; truss
them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon the
thighs; skin the neck and head, and bring the beak round under the wing.
Place some slices of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the trails,
allowing a piece of toast for each bird. Roast before a clear fire from
15 to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, and flour and froth them
nicely. When done, dish the pieces of toast with the birds upon them,
and pour round a very little gravy; send some more to table in a tureen.
These are most delicious birds when well cooked, but they should not be
kept too long: when the feathers drop, or easily come out, they are fit
for table.--See coloured plate, I 1.

_Time_.---When liked underdone, 15 to 20 minutes; if liked well done,
allow an extra 5 minutes.

_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from November to February.

[Illustration: THE WOODCOCK.]

    THE WOODCOCK.--This bird being migratory in its habits, has,
    consequently, no settled habitation; it cannot be considered as
    the property of any one, and is, therefore, not game by law. It
    breeds in high northern latitudes, and the time of its
    appearance and disappearance in Sweden coincides exactly with
    that of its arrival in and return from Great Britain. On the
    coast of Suffolk its vernal and autumnal visits have been
    accurately observed. In the first week of October it makes its
    appearance in small numbers, but in November and December it
    appears in larger numbers, and always after sunset, and most
    gregariously. In the same manner as woodcocks take their leave
    of us, they quit France, Germany, and Italy, making the northern
    and colder climates their summer rendezvous. They visit Burgundy
    in the latter part of October, but continue there only a few
    weeks, the country being hard, and unable to supply them with
    such sustenance as they require. In the winter, they are found
    as far south as Smyrna and Aleppo, and, during the same season,
    in Barbary, where the Africans name them "the ass of the
    partridge." It has been asserted that they have been seen as far
    south as Egypt, which is the most remote region to which they
    can be traced on that side of the eastern world; on the other
    side, they are common in Japan. Those which resort to the
    countries of the Levant are supposed to come from the mountains
    of Armenia, or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. The flesh of
    the woodcock is held in high estimation; hence the bird is
    eagerly sought after by the sportsman.


GAME CARVING.


BLACKCOCK.

[Illustration: BLACKCOCK.]

1054. Skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of the
guests at a dinner-table; for game seems pre-eminently to be composed of
such delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner appears
to more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and favourite dishes,
than larger and more robust _pièces de résistance_. As described at
recipe No. 1019, this bird is variously served with or without the head
on; and although we do not personally object to the appearance of the
head as shown in the woodcut, yet it seems to be more in vogue to serve
it without. The carving is not difficult, but should be elegantly and
deftly done. Slices from the breast, cut in the direction of the dotted
line from 2 to 1, should be taken off, the merrythought displaced and
the leg and wing removed by running the knife along from 3 to 4, and
following the directions given under the head of boiled fowl, No. 1000,
reserving the thigh, which is considered a great delicacy, for the most
honoured guests, some of whom may also esteem the brains of this bird.

WILD DUCK.

[Illustration: WILD DUCK.]

1055. As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a
dish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes
are not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of
each, which are considered the best-flavoured and the primest. Of
wild-fowl, the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and
slices are cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines, from
1 to 2; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by passing the
knife from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions described
for carving boiled fowl, No. 1000.


ROAST HARE.

[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]

1056. The "Grand Carver" of olden times, a functionary of no ordinary
dignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his skill and
grace had an opportunity of display. _Diners à la Russe_ may possibly,
erewhile, save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the art which
was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of the
youthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till we see
the office of "grand carver" once more instituted, it will be well for
all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which, if not
the most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite. The hare,
having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should be first
served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in the
direction of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are disposed
of, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the line
indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken off by
passing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should now be
divided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2,
taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where the
back may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve any
bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs
and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where
men-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare,
especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving
is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered
in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy should
accompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry,
will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is also
served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the
brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs.


PARTRIDGES.

[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGES.]

1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird.
The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along the
top of the breastbone of the bird, and cut it quite through, thus
dividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts, in the same
manner as carving a pigeon, No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it into
three pieces; viz., by severing a small wing and leg on either side from
the body, by following the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus making
2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third plate. The most
elegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, and
then cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to
2: this plan will give 4 or more small helpings. A little bread-sauce
should be served to each guest.


GROUSE.

[Illustration]

1058. GROUSE may be carved in the way first described in carving
partridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, and
this part of many game birds is considered the finest flavoured.


PHEASANT.

[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]

1059. Fixing the fork in the breast, let the carver cut slices from it
in the direction of the lines from 2 to 1: these are the prime pieces.
If there be more guests to satisfy than these slices will serve, then
let the legs and wings be disengaged in the same manner as described in
carving boiled fowl, No. 1000, the point where the wing joins the
neckbone being carefully found. The merrythought will come off in the
same way as that of a fowl. The most valued parts are the same as those
which are most considered in a fowl.


SNIPE.

[Illustration: SNIPE.]

1060. One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole, to a
gentleman; but, in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite
through the centre, from 1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal and
like portions, and put only one half on the plate.


HAUNCH OF VENISON.

[Illustration: HAUNCH OF VENISON.]

1061. Here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to exercise
his skill upon, and, what will be pleasant for many to know, there is
but little difficulty in the performance. An incision being made
completely down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2, the
gravy will then be able easily to flow; when slices, not too thick,
should be cut along the haunch, as indicated by the line 4 to 3; that
end of the joint marked 3 having been turned towards the carver, so that
he may have a more complete command over the joint. Although some
epicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are superior to
others, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cut
above and below the line. It should be borne in mind to serve each guest
with a portion of fat; and the most expeditious carver will be the best
carver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to chill, when it loses
much of its charm.

WOODCOCK.

[Illustration: WOODCOCK.]

1062. This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactly
into two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described in
carving partridge (No. 1057). The backbone is considered the tit-bit of
a woodcock, and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. This
bird is served in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin, in connection
with the pheasant, viz., on toast which has received its drippings
whilst roasting; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany
each plate.


LANDRAIL.

1063. LANDRAIL, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its
being drawn, may be carved in the same manner.--See No. 1060.


PTARMIGAN.

1064. PTARMIGAN, being of much the same size, and trussed in the same
manner, as the red-bird, may be carved in the manner described in
Partridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058.


QUAILS.

1065. QUAILS, being trussed and served like Woodcock, may be similarly
carved.--See No. 1062.


PLOVERS.

1066. PLOVERS may be carved like Quails or Woodcock, being trussed and
served in the same way as those birds.--See No. 1055.


TEAL.

1067. TEAL, being of the same character as Widgeon and Wild Duck, may be
treated, in carving, in the same style.


WIDGEON.

1068. WIDGEON may be carved in the same way as described in regard to
Wild Duck, at No. 1055.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXIV.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES.

    "Strange there should be found
  Who, self-imprison'd in their proud saloons,
  Renounce the odours of the open field
  For the unscented fictions of the loom;
  Who, satisfied with only pencilled scenes,
  Prefer to the performance of a God,
  Th' inferior wonders of an artist's hand!
  Lovely, indeed, the mimic works of art,
  But Nature's works far lovelier."--COWPER.

1069. "THE ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE KINGDOMS," says Hogg, in his Natural
History of the Vegetable Kingdom, "may be aptly compared to the primary
colours of the prismatic spectrum, which are so gradually and intimately
blended, that we fail to discover where the one terminates and where the
other begins. If we had to deal with yellow and blue only, the eye would
easily distinguish the one from the other; but when the two are blended,
and form green, we cannot tell where the blue ends and the yellow
begins. And so it is in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. If our powers
of observation were limited to the highest orders of animals and plants,
if there were only mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes, and insects in the
one, and trees, shrubs, and herbs in the other, we should then be able
with facility to define the bounds of the two kingdoms; but as we
descend the scale of each, and arrive at the lowest forms of animals and
plants, we there meet with bodies of the simplest structure, sometimes a
mere cell, whose organization, modes of development and reproduction,
are so anomalous, and partake so much of the character of both, that we
cannot distinguish whether they are plants or whether they are animals."

1070. WHILST IT IS DIFFICULT TO DETERMINE where the animal begins and
the vegetable ends, it is as difficult to account for many of the
singularities by which numbers of plants are characterized. This,
however, can hardly be regarded as a matter of surprise, when we
recollect that, so far as it is at present known, the vegetable kingdom
is composed of upwards of 92,000 species of plants. Of this amazing
number the lichens and the mosses are of the simplest and hardiest
kinds. These, indeed, may be considered as the very creators of the
soil: they thrive in the coldest and most sterile regions, many of them
commencing the operations of nature in the growth of vegetables on the
barest rocks, and receiving no other nourishment than such as may be
supplied to them by the simple elements of air and rain. When they have
exhausted their period in such situations as have been assigned them,
they pass into a state of decay, and become changed into a very fine
mould, which, in the active spontaneity of nature, immediately begins to
produce other species, which in their turn become food for various
mosses, and also rot. This process of growth and decay, being, from time
to time, continued, by-and-by forms a soil sufficient for the
maintenance of larger plants, which also die and decay, and so increase
the soil, until it becomes deep enough to sustain an oak, or even the
weight of a tropical forest. To create soil amongst rocks, however, must
not be considered as the only end of the lichen; different kinds of it
minister to the elegant arts, in the form of beautiful dyes; thus the
_lichen rocella_ is used to communicate to silk and wool, various shades
of purple and crimson, which greatly enhance the value of these
materials. This species is chiefly imported from the Canary Islands,
and, when scarce, as an article of commerce has brought as much as £1000
per ton.

1071. IN THE VICINITY OF LICHENS, THE MUSCI, OR MOSSES, are generally to
be found. Indeed, wherever vegetation can be sustained, there they are,
affording protection to the roots and seeds of more delicate vegetables,
and, by their spongy texture, retaining a moisture which preserves other
plants from the withering drought of summer. But even in winter we find
them enlivening, by their verdure, the cold bosom of Nature. We see them
abounding in our pastures and our woods, attaching themselves to the
living, and still more abundantly to the dead, trunks and branches of
trees. In marshy places they also abound, and become the medium of their
conversion into fruitful fields. This is exemplified by the manner in
which peat-mosses are formed: on the surface of these we find them in a
state of great life and vigour; immediately below we discover them, more
or less, in a state of decomposition; and, still deeper, we find their
stems and branches consolidated into a light brown peat. Thus are
extensive tracts formed, ultimately to be brought into a state of
cultivation, and rendered subservient to the wants of man.

1072. WHEN NATURE HAS FOUND A SOIL, her next care is to perfect the
growth of her seeds, and then to disperse them. Whilst the seed remains
confined in its capsule, it cannot answer its purpose; hence, when it is
sufficiently ripe, the pericardium opens, and lets it out. What must
strike every observer with surprise is, how nuts and shells, which we
can hardly crack with our teeth, or even with a hammer, will divide of
themselves, and make way for the little tender sprout which proceeds
from the kernel. There are instances, it is said, such as in the
Touch-me-not (_impatiens_), and the Cuckoo-flower (_cardamine_), in
which the seed-vessels, by an elastic jerk at the moment of their
explosion, cast the seeds to a distance. We are all aware, however, that
many seeds--those of the most composite flowers, as of the thistle and
dandelion--are endowed with, what have not been inappropriately called,
wings. These consist of a beautiful silk-looking down, by which they are
enabled to float in the air, and to be transported, sometimes, to
considerable distances from the parent plant that produced them. The
swelling of this downy tuft within the seed-vessel is the means by which
the seed is enabled to overcome the resistance of its coats, and to
force for itself a passage by which it escapes from its little
prison-house.

[Illustration: BEETON'S Book of HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
EDITED BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON]

[Illustration: "THE FREE, FAIR HOMES OF ENGLAND."]

1073. BIRDS, AS WELL AS QUADRUPEDS, are likewise the means of dispersing
the seeds of plants, and placing them in situations where they
ultimately grow. Amongst the latter is the squirrel, which is an
extensive planter of oaks; nay, it may be regarded as having, in some
measure, been one of the creators of the British navy. We have read of a
gentleman who was walking one day in some woods belonging to the Duke of
Beaufort, near Troy House, in Monmouthshire, when his attention was
arrested by a squirrel, sitting very composedly upon the ground. He
stopped to observe its motions, when, in a short time, the little animal
suddenly quitted its position, and darted to the top of the tree beneath
which it had been sitting. In an instant it returned with an acorn in
its mouth, and with its paws began to burrow in the earth. After digging
a small hole, it therein deposited an acorn, which it hastily covered,
and then darted up the tree again. In a moment it was down with another,
which it buried in the same manner; and so continued its labour,
gathering and burying, as long as the gentleman had patience to watch
it. This industry in the squirrel is an instinct which directs it to lay
up a store of provision for the winter; and as it is probable that its
memory is not sufficiently retentive to enable it to recollect all the
spots in which it deposits its acorns, it no doubt makes some slips in
the course of the season, and loses some of them. These few spring up,
and are, in time, destined to supply the place of the parent tree. Thus
may the sons of Britain, in some degree, consider themselves to be
indebted to the industry and defective memory of this little animal for
the production of some of those "wooden walls" which have, for
centuries, been the national pride, and which have so long "braved the
battle and the breeze" on the broad bosom of the great deep, in every
quarter of the civilized globe. As with the squirrel, so with jays and
pies, which plant among the grass and moss, horse-beans, and probably
forget where they have secreted them. Mr. White, the naturalist, says,
that both horse-beans and peas sprang up in his field-walks in the
autumn; and he attributes the sowing of them to birds. Bees, he also
observes, are much the best setters of cucumbers. If they do not happen
to take kindly to the frames, the best way is to tempt them by a little
honey put on the male and female bloom. When they are once induced to
haunt the frames, they set all the fruit, and will hover with impatience
round the lights in a morning till the glasses are opened.

1074. Some of the acorns planted by the squirrel of Monmouthshire may be
now in a fair way to become, at the end of some centuries, venerable
trees; for not the least remarkable quality of oaks is the strong
principle of life with which they are endued. In Major Rooke's "Sketch
of the forest of Sherwood" we find it stated that, on some timber cut
down in Berkland and Bilhaugh, letters were found stamped in the bodies
of the trees, denoting the king's reign in which they were marked. The
bark appears to have been cut off, and then the letters to have been cut
in, and the next year's wood to have grown over them without adhering to
where the bark had been cut out. The ciphers were found to be of James
I., William and Mary, and one of King John. One of the ciphers of James
was about one foot within the tree, and one foot from the centre. It was
cut down in 1786. The tree must have been two feet in diameter, or two
yards in circumference, when the mark was cut. A tree of this size is
generally estimated at 120 years' growth; which number being subtracted
from the middle year of the reign of James, would carry the year back to
1492, which would be about the period of its being planted. The tree
with the cipher of William and Mary displayed its mark about nine inches
within the tree, and three feet three inches from the centre. This tree
was felled in 1786. The cipher of John was eighteen inches within the
tree, and rather more than a foot from the centre. The middle year of
the reign of that monarch was 1207. By subtracting from this 120, the
number of years requisite for a tree's growth to arrive at the diameter
of two feet, the date of its being planted would seem to have been 1085,
or about twenty years after the Conquest.

[Illustration: CELLULAR DEVELOPMENT.]

1075. Considering the great endurance of these trees, we are necessarily
led to inquire into the means by which they are enabled to arrive at
such strength and maturity; and whether it may be considered as a
humiliation we will not determine, but, with all the ingenious
mechanical contrivances of man, we are still unable to define the limits
of the animal and vegetable kingdoms. "Plants have been described by
naturalists, who would determine the limits of the two kingdoms, as
organized living bodies, without volition or locomotion, destitute of a
mouth or intestinal cavity, which, when detached from their place of
growth, die, and, in decay, ferment, but do not putrefy, and which, on
being subjected to analysis, furnish an excess of carbon and no
nitrogen. The powers of chemistry, and of the microscope, however,
instead of confirming these views, tend more and more to show that a
still closer affinity exists between plants and animals; for it is now
ascertained that nitrogen, which was believed to be present only in
animals, enters largely into the composition of plants also. When the
microscope is brought to aid our powers of observation, we find that
there are organized bodies belonging to the vegetable kingdom which
possess very evident powers of locomotion, and which change about in so
very remarkable a manner, that no other cause than that of volition can
be assigned to it." Thus it would seem that, in this particular at
least, some vegetables bear a very close resemblance to animal life; and
when we consider the manner in which they are supplied with nourishment,
and perform the functions of their existence, the resemblance would seem
still closer. If, for example, we take a thin transverse slice of the
stem of any plant, or a slice cut across its stem, and immerse it in a
little pure water, and place it under a microscope, we will find that it
consists principally of cells, more or less regular, and resembling
those of a honeycomb or a network of cobweb. The size of these varies in
different plants, as it does in different parts of the same plant, and
they are sometimes so minute as to require a million to cover a square
inch of surface. This singular structure, besides containing water and
air, is the repository or storehouse of various secretions. Through it,
the sap, when produced, is diffused sideways through the plant, and by
it numerous changes are effected in the juices which fill its cells. The
forms of the cells are various; they are also subject to various
transformations. Sometimes a number of cylindrical cells are laid end to
end, and, by the absorption of the transverse partitions, form a
continuous tube, as in the sap-vessels of plants, or in muscular and
nervous fibre; and when cells are thus woven together, they are called
cellular tissue, which, in the human body, forms a fine net-like
membrane, enveloping or connecting most of its structures. In pulpy
fruits, the cells may be easily separated one from the other; and within
the cells are smaller cells, commonly known as pulp. Among the
cell-contents of some plants are beautiful crystals, called _raphides_.
The term is derived from [Greek: rhaphis] a _needle_, on account of the
resemblance of the crystal to a needle. They are composed of the
phosphate and oxalate of lime; but there is great difference of opinion
as to their use in the economy of the plant, and one of the French
philosophers endeavoured to prove that crystals are the possible
transition of the inorganic to organic matter. The differences, however,
between the highest form of crystal and the lowest form of organic life
known, viz., a simple reproductive cell, are so manifold and striking,
that the attempt to make crystals the bridge over which inorganic matter
passes into organic, is almost totally regarded as futile. In a layer of
an onion, a fig, a section of garden rhubarb, in some species of aloe,
in the bark of many trees, and in portions of the cuticle of the
medicinal squill, bundles of these needle-shaped crystals are to be
found. Some of them are as large as 1-40th of an inch, others are as
small as the 1-1000th. They are found in all parts of the plant,--in the
stem, bark, leaves, stipules, petals, fruit, roots, and even in the
pollen, with some few exceptions, and they are always situated in the
interior of cells. Some plants, as many of the _cactus_ tribe, are made
up almost entirely of these needle-crystals; in some instances, every
cell of the cuticle contains a stellate mass of crystals; in others, the
whole interior is full of them, rendering the plant so exceedingly
brittle, that the least touch will occasion a fracture; so much so, that
some specimens of _Cactus senilis_, said to be a thousand years old,
which were sent a few years since to Kew, from South America, were
obliged to be packed in cotton, with all the care of the most delicate
jewellery, to preserve them during transport.

[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE FROM UNDER-SIDE OF LEAF OF DEUTZIA
SCABRA.]

[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE OF GRASS.]

1076. Besides the cellular tissue, there is what is called a vascular
system, which consists of another set of small vessels. If, for example,
we, early in the spring, cut a branch transversely, we will perceive the
sap oozing out from numerous points over the whole of the divided
surface, except on that part occupied by the pith and the bark; and if a
twig, on which the leaves are already unfolded, be cut from the tree,
and placed with its cut end in a watery solution of Brazil-wood, the
colouring matter will be found to ascend into the leaves and to the top
of the twig. In both these cases, a close examination with a powerful
microscope, will discover the sap perspiring from the divided portion of
the stem, and the colouring matter rising through real tubes to the top
of the twig: these are the sap or conducting vessels of the plant. If,
however, we examine a transverse section of the vine, or of any other
tree, at a later period of the season, we find that the wood is
apparently dry, whilst the bark, particularly that part next the wood,
is swelled with fluid. This is contained in vessels of a different kind
from those in which the sap rises. They are found in the _bark_ only in
trees, and may be called returning vessels, from their carrying the sap
downwards after its preparation in the leaf. It is believed that the
passage of the sap in plants is conducted in a manner precisely similar
to that of the blood in man, from the regular contraction and expansion
of the vessels; but, on account of their extreme minuteness, it is
almost an impossibility to be certain upon this point. Numerous
observations made with the microscope show that their diameter seldom
exceeds a 290th part of a line, or a 3,000th part of an inch.
Leuwenhoeck reckoned 20,000 vessels in a morsel of oak about one
nineteenth of an inch square.

1077. In the vascular system of a plant, we at once see the great
analogy which it bears to the veins and arteries in the human system;
but neither it, nor the cellular tissue combined, is all that is
required to perfect the production of a vegetable. There is, besides, a
tracheal system, which is composed of very minute elastic spiral tubes,
designed for the purpose of conveying air both to and from the plant.
There are also fibres, which consist of collections of these cells and
vessels closely united together. These form the root and the stem. If we
attempt to cut them transversely, we meet with difficulty, because we
have to force our way across the tubes, and break them; but if we slit
the wood lengthwise, the vessels are separated without breaking. The
layers of wood, which appear in the stem or branch of a tree cut
transversely, consist of different zones of fibres, each the produce of
one year's growth, and separated by a coat of cellular tissue, without
which they could not be well distinguished. Besides all these, there is
the cuticle, which extends over every part of the plant, and covers the
bark with three distinct coats. The _liber_, or inner bark, is said to
be formed of hollow tubes, which convey the sap downwards to increase
the solid diameter of the tree.

1078. THE ROOT AND THE STEM NOW DEMAND A SLIGHT NOTICE. The former is
designed, not only to support the plant by fixing it in the soil, but
also to fulfil the functions of a channel for the conveyance of
nourishment: it is therefore furnished with pores, or spongioles, as
they are called, from their resemblance to a sponge, to suck up whatever
comes within its reach. It is found in a variety of forms, and hence its
adaptation to a great diversity of soils and circumstances. We have
heard of a willow-tree being dug up and its head planted where its roots
were, and these suffered to spread out in the air like naked branches.
In course of time, the roots became branches, and the branches roots, or
rather, roots rose from the branches beneath the ground, and branches
shot from the roots above. Some roots last one year, others two, and
others, like the shrubs and trees which they produce, have an indefinite
period of existence; but they all consist of a collection of fibres,
composed of vascular and cellular tissue, without tracheae, or
breathing-vessels. The stem is the grand distributor of the nourishment
taken up by the roots, to the several parts of the plant. The seat of
its vitality is said to be in the point or spot called the neck, which
separates the stem from the root. If the root of a young plant be cut
off, it will shoot out afresh; if even the stem be taken away, it will
be renewed; but if this part be injured, the plant will assuredly die.

1079. IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE PLAN OF THIS WORK, special notices of
culinary vegetables will accompany the various recipes in which they are
spoken of; but here we cannot resist the opportunity of declaring it as
our conviction, that he or she who introduces a useful or an ornamental
plant into our island, ought justly to be considered, to a large extent,
a benefactor to the country. No one can calculate the benefits which may
spring from this very vegetable, after its qualities have become
thoroughly known. If viewed in no other light, it is pleasing to
consider it as bestowing upon us a share of the blessings of other
climates, and enabling us to participate in the luxury which a more
genial sun has produced.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXV.


BOILED ARTICHOKES.

1080. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a piece of soda the size of a shilling;
artichokes.

[Illustration: ARTICHOKES.]

_Mode_.--Wash the artichokes well in several waters; see that no insects
remain about them, and trim away the leaves at the bottom. Cut off the
stems and put them into _boiling_ water, to which have been added salt
and soda in the above proportion. Keep the saucepan uncovered, and let
them boil quickly until tender; ascertain when they are done by
thrusting a fork in them, or by trying if the leaves can be easily
removed. Take them out, let them drain for a minute or two, and serve in
a napkin, or with a little white sauce poured over. A tureen of melted
butter should accompany them. This vegetable, unlike any other, is
considered better for being gathered two or three days; but they must be
well soaked and washed previous to dressing.

_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.

_Sufficient_,--a dish of 5 or 6 for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September.

[Illustration: CARDOON ARTICHOKE.]

    THE COMPOSITAE, OR COMPOSITE FLOWERS.--This family is so
    extensive, as to contain nearly a twelfth part of the whole of
    the vegetable kingdom. It embraces about 9,000 species,
    distributed over almost every country; and new discoveries are
    constantly being made and added to the number. Towards the poles
    their numbers diminish, and slightly, also, towards the equator;
    but they abound in the tropical and sub-tropical islands, and in
    the tracts of continent not far from the sea-shore. Among
    esculent vegetables, the Lettuce, Salsify, Scorzonera, Cardoon,
    and Artichoke belong to the family.

FRIED ARTICHOKES.

(Entremets, or Small Dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

1081. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 artichokes, salt and water: for the
batter,--1/4 lb. of flour, a little salt, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.

_Mode_.--Trim and boil the artichokes by recipe No. 1080, and rub them
over with lemon-juice, to keep them white. When they are quite tender,
take them up, remove the chokes, and divide the bottoms; dip each piece
into batter, fry them in hot lard or dripping, and garnish the dish with
crisped parsley. Serve with plain melted butter.

_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the artichokes, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.

_Sufficient_,--5 or 6 for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September.


A FRENCH MODE OF COOKING ARTICHOKES.

1082. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 artichokes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow
1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 bunch of
savoury herbs, 2 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Cut the ends of the leaves, as also the stems; put the
artichokes into boiling water, with the above proportion of salt,
pepper, herbs, and butter; let them boil quickly until tender, keeping
the lid of the saucepan off, and when the leaves come out easily, they
are cooked enough. To keep them a beautiful green, put a large piece of
cinder into a muslin bag, and let it boil with them. Serve with plain
melted butter.

_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes.

_Sufficient_,--5 or 6 sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September.


ARTICHOKES A L'ITALIENNE.

1083. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 6 artichokes, salt and butter, about 1/2 pint
of good gravy.

_Mode_.--Trim and cut the artichokes into quarters, and boil them until
tender in water mixed with a little salt and butter. When done, drain
them well, and lay them all round the dish, with the leaves outside.
Have ready some good gravy, highly flavoured with mushrooms; reduce it
until quite thick, and pour it round the artichokes, and serve.

_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes to boil the artichokes.

_Sufficient_ for one side-dish.

_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September.

    CONSTITUENT PROPERTIES OF THE ARTICHOKE.--According to the
    analysis of Braconnet, the constituent elements of an artichoke
    are,--starch 30, albumen 10, uncrystallizable sugar 148, gum 12,
    fixed oil 1, woody fibre 12, inorganic matter 27, and water 770.

BOILED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

1084. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; artichokes.

_Mode_.--Wash, peel, and shape the artichokes in a round or oval form,
and put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them,
salted in the above proportion. Let them boil gently until tender; take
them up, drain them, and serve them in a napkin, or plain, whichever
mode is preferred; send to table with them a tureen of melted butter or
cream sauce, a little of which may be poured over the artichokes when
they are _not_ served in a napkin.

[Illustration: JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.]

_Time_.--About 20 minutes after the water boils.

_Average cost_, 2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_,--10 for a dish for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to June.

    USES OF THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.--This being a tuberous-rooted
    plant, with leafy stems from four to six feet high, it is
    alleged that its tops will afford as much fodder per acre as a
    crop of oats, or more, and its roots half as many tubers as an
    ordinary crop of potatoes. The tubers, being abundant in the
    market-gardens, are to be had at little more than the price of
    potatoes. The fibres of the stems may be separated by
    maceration, and manufactured into cordage or cloth; and this is
    said to be done in some parts of the north and west of France,
    as about Hagenau, where this plant, on the poor sandy soils, is
    an object of field culture.

MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

1085. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 oz. of salt; 15 or
16 artichokes, 1 oz. butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Boil the artichokes as in the preceding recipe until tender;
drain and press the water from them, and beat them up with a fork. When
thoroughly mashed and free from lumps, put them into a saucepan with the
butter and a seasoning of white pepper and salt; keep stirring over the
fire until the artichokes are quite hot, and serve.

_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to June.


JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH WHITE SAUCE.

(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.)

1086. INGREDIENTS.--12 to 15 artichokes, 12 to 15 Brussels sprouts, 1/2
pint of white sauce, No. 538.

_Mode_.--Peel and cut the artichokes in the shape of a pear; cut a piece
off the bottom of each, that they may stand upright in the dish, and
boil them in salt and water until tender. Have ready 1/2 pint of white
sauce, made by recipe No. 538; dish the artichokes, pour over them the
sauce, and place between each a fine Brussels sprout: these should be
boiled separately, and not with the artichokes.

_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to June.

    THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.--This plant is well known, being, for
    its tubers, cultivated not only as a garden vegetable, but also
    as an agricultural crop. By many it is much esteemed as an
    esculent, when cooked in various ways; and the domesticated
    animals eat both the fresh foliage, and the tubers with great
    relish. By some, they are not only considered nourishing, but
    even fattening.

BOILED ASPARAGUS.

1087. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; asparagus.

[Illustration: ASPARAGUS ON TOAST. ASPARAGUS TONGS.]

_Mode_.--Asparagus should be dressed as soon as possible after it is
cut, although it may be kept for a day or two by putting the stalks into
cold water; yet, to be good, like every other vegetable, it cannot be
cooked too fresh. Scrape the white part of the stems, _beginning_ from
the _head_, and throw them into cold water; then tie them into bundles
of about 20 each, keeping the heads all one way, and cut the stalks
evenly, that they may all be the same length; put them into _boiling_
water, with salt in the above proportion; keep them boiling quickly
until tender, with the saucepan uncovered. When the asparagus is done,
dish it upon toast, which should be dipped in the water it was cooked
in, and leave the white ends outwards each war, with the points meeting
in the middle. Serve with a tureen of melted butter.

_Time_.--15 to 18 minutes after the water boils.

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. the 100 heads.

_Sufficient_.--Allow about 50 heads for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_.--May be had, forced, from January but cheapest in May,
June, and July.

[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.]

    ASPARAGUS.--This plant belongs to the variously-featured family
    of the order _Liliaceae_, which, in the temperate regions of
    both hemispheres, are most abundant, and, between the tropics,
    gigantic in size and arborescent in form. Asparagus is a native
    of Great Britain, and is found on various parts of the seacoast,
    and in the fens of Lincolnshire. At Kynarve Cove, in Cornwall,
    there is an island called "Asparagus Island," from the abundance
    in which it is there found. The uses to which the young shoots
    are applied, and the manure in which they are cultivated in
    order to bring them to the highest state of excellence, have
    been a study with many kitchen-gardeners.

ASPARAGUS PEAS.

(Entremets, or to be served as a Side-dish with the Second Course.)

1088. INGREDIENTS.--100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. of butter, a small
bunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the yolks
of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt.

_Mode_.--Carefully scrape the asparagus, cut it into pieces of an equal
size, avoiding that which is in the least hard or tough, and throw them
into cold water. Then boil the asparagus in salt and water until
three-parts done; take it out, drain, and place it on a cloth to dry the
moisture away from it. Put it into a stewpan with the butter, parsley,
and onions, and shake over a brisk fire for 10 minutes. Dredge in a
little flour, add the sugar, and moisten with boiling water. When boiled
a short time and reduced, take out the parsley and onions, thicken with
the yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the cream; add a seasoning of salt, and,
when the whole is on the point of simmering, serve. Make the sauce
sufficiently thick to adhere to the vegetable.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. a pint.

_Seasonable_ in May, June, and July.

    MEDICINAL USES OF ASPARAGUS.--This plant not only acts as a
    wholesome and nutritious vegetable, but also as a diuretic,
    aperient, and deobstruent. The chemical analysis of its juice
    discovers its composition to be a peculiar crystallizable
    principle, called asparagin, albumen, mannite, malic acid, and
    some salts. Thours says, the cellular tissue contains a
    substance similar to sage. The berries are capable of undergoing
    vinous fermentation, and affording alcohol by distillation. In
    their unripe state they possess the same properties as the
    roots, and probably in a much higher degree.


ASPARAGUS PUDDING.

(A delicious Dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

1089. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls
of flour, 1 tablespoonful of _very finely_ minced ham, 1 oz. of butter,
pepper and salt to taste, milk.

_Mode_.--Cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus, about the size
of peas; put them into a basin with the eggs, which should be well
beaten, and the flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all these
ingredients well together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the
pudding of the consistency of thick batter; put it into a pint buttered
mould, tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, place it in _boiling
water_, and let it boil for 2 hours; turn it out of the mould on to a
hot dish, and pour plain melted butter _round_, but not over, the
pudding. Green peas pudding may be made in exactly the same manner,
substituting peas for the asparagus.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per pint.

_Seasonable_ in May, June, and July.


BOILED FRENCH BEANS.

1090. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda.

[Illustration: Scarlet Runner.]

_Mode_.--This vegetable should always be eaten young, as, when allowed
to grow too long, it tastes stringy and tough when cooked. Cut off the
heads and tails, and a thin strip on each side of the beans, to remove
the strings. Then divide each bean into 4 or 6 pieces, according to
size, cutting them lengthways in a slanting direction, and, as they are
cut, put them into cold water, with a small quantity of salt dissolved
in it. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the
above proportion; put in the beans, keep them boiling quickly, with the
lid uncovered, and be careful that they do not get smoked. When tender,
which may be ascertained by their sinking to the bottom of the saucepan,
take them up, throw them into a colander; and when drained, dish and
serve with plain melted butter. When very young, beans are sometimes
served whole: when they are thus dressed, their colour and flavour are
much better preserved; but the more general way of dressing them is to
cut them into thin strips.

_Time_.--Very young beans, 10 to 12 minutes; moderate size, 15 to 20
minutes, after the water boils.

_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 4d. a peck; but, when forced, very
expensive.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 peck for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of September; but may be
had, forced, from February to the beginning of June.


FRENCH MODE OF COOKING FRENCH BEANS.

1091. INGREDIENTS.--A quart of French beans, 3 oz. of fresh butter,
pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon.

_Mode_.--Cut and boil the beans by the preceding recipe, and when
tender, put them into a stewpan, and shake over the fire, to dry away
the moisture from the beans. When quite dry and hot, add the butter,
pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; keep moving the stewpan, without using a
spoon, as that would break the beans; and when the butter is melted, and
all is thoroughly hot, serve. If the butter should not mix well, add a
tablespoonful of gravy, and serve very quickly.

_Time_.--About 1/4 hour to boil the beans; 10 minutes to shake them over
the fire.

_Average cost_, in full season, about 1s. 4d. a peck.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of September.


BOILED BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS.

1092. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; beans.

[Illustration: BROAD BEAN.]

_Mode_.--This is a favourite vegetable with many persons, but to be
nice, should be young and freshly gathered. After shelling the beans,
put them into _boiling_ water, salted in the above proportion, and let
them boil rapidly until tender. Drain them well in a colander; dish, and
serve with them separately a tureen of parsley and butter. Boiled bacon
should always accompany this vegetable, but the beans should be cooked
separately. It is usually served with the beans laid round, and the
parsley and butter in a tureen. Beans also make an excellent garnish to
a ham, and when used for this purpose, if very old, should have their
skins removed.


_Time_.--Very young beans, 15 minutes; when of a moderate size, 20 to 25
minutes, or longer.

_Average cost_, unshelled, 6d. per peck.

_Sufficient_.--Allow one peck for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July and August.

    NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE BEAN.--The produce of beans in meal
    is, like that of peas, more in proportion to the grain than in
    any of the cereal grasses. A bushel of beans is supposed to
    yield fourteen pounds more of flour than a bushel of oats; and a
    bushel of peas eighteen pounds more, or, according to some,
    twenty pounds. A thousand parts of bean flour were found by Sir
    II. Davy to yield 570 parts of nutritive matter, of which 426
    were mucilage or starch, 103 gluten, and 41 extract, or matter
    rendered insoluble during the process.

BROAD BEANS A LA POULETTE.

1093. INGREDIENTS.--2 pints of broad beans, 1/2 pint of stock or broth,
a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, a small lump of
sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1/4 pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Procure some young and freshly-gathered beans, and shell
sufficient to make 2 pints; boil them, as in the preceding recipe, until
nearly done; then drain them and put them into a stewpan, with the
stock, finely-minced herbs, and sugar. Stew the beans until perfectly
tender, and the liquor has dried away a little; then beat up the yolk of
an egg with the cream, add this to the beans, let the whole get
thoroughly hot, and when on the point of simmering, serve. Should the
beans be very large, the skin should be removed previously to boiling
them.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the beans, 15 minutes to stew them in the
stock.

_Average cost_, unshelled, 6d. per peck.

_Seasonable_ in July and August.

    ORIGIN AND VARIETIES OF THE BEAN.--This valuable plant is said
    to be a native of Egypt, but, like other plants which have been
    domesticated, its origin is uncertain. It has been cultivated in
    Europe and Asia from time immemorial, and has been long known in
    Britain. Its varieties may be included under two general
    heads,--the white, or garden beans, and the grey, or field
    beans, of the former, sown in the fields, the mazagan and
    long-pod are almost the only sorts; of the latter, those known
    as the horse-bean, the small or ticks, and the prolific of
    Heligoland, are the principal sorts. New varieties are procured
    in the same manner as in other plants.

BOILED BEETROOT.

1094. INGREDIENTS,--Beetroot; boiling water.

_Mode_.--When large, young, and juicy, this vegetable makes a very
excellent addition to winter salads, and may easily be converted into an
economical and quickly-made pickle. (_See_ No. 369.) Beetroot is more
frequently served cold than hot: when the latter mode is preferred,
melted butter should be sent to table with it. It may also be stewed
with button onions, or boiled and served with roasted onions. Wash the
beets thoroughly; but do not prick or break the skin before they are
cooked, or they would lose their beautiful colour in boiling. Put them
into boiling water, and let them boil until tender, keeping them well
covered. If to be served hot, remove the peel quickly, cut the beetroot
into thick slices, and send to table melted butter. For salads, pickle,
&c., let the root cool, then peel, and cut it into slices.

_Time_.--Small beetroot, 1-1/2 to 2 hours; large, 2-1/2 to 3 hours.

_Average cost_, in full season, 2d. each.

_Seasonable_.--May be had at any time.

[Illustration: BEETROOT.]

    BEETROOT.--The geographical distribution of the order Saltworts
    (_Salxolaceae_), to which beetroot belongs, is most common in
    extra-tropical and temperate regions, where they are common
    weeds, frequenting waste places, among rubbish, and on marshes
    by the seashore. In the tropics they are rare. They are
    characterized by the large quantities of mucilage, sugar,
    starch, and alkaline salts which are found in them. Many of them
    are used as potherbs, and some are emetic and vermifuge in their
    medicinal properties. The _root_ of _garden_ or red beet is
    exceedingly wholesome and nutritious, and Dr. Lyon Playfair has
    recommended that a good brown bread may be made by rasping down
    this root with an equal quantity of flour. He says that the
    average quality of flour contains about 12 per cent. of azotized
    principles adapted for the formation of flesh, and the average
    quality of beet contains about 2 per cent. of the same
    materials.

BOILED BROCOLI.

1095. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; brocoli.

[Illustration: BOILED BROCOLI.]

_Mode_.--Strip off the dead outside leaves, and the inside ones cut off
level with the flower; cut off the stalk close at the bottom, and put
the brocoli into cold salt and water, with the heads downwards. When
they have remained in this for about 3/4 hour, and they are _perfectly_
free from insects, put them into a saucepan of _boiling_ water, salted
in the above proportion, and keep them boiling quickly over a brisk
fire, with the saucepan uncovered. Take them up with a slice the moment
they are done; drain them well, and serve with a tureen of melted
butter, a _little_ of which should be poured over the brocoli. If left
in the water after it is done, it will break, its colour will be
spoiled, and its crispness gone.

_Time_.--Small brocoli, 10 to 15 minutes; large one, 20 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, 2d. each.

_Sufficient_,--2 for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to March; plentiful in February and March.

[Illustration: BROCOLI.]

    THE KOHL-RABI, OR TURNIP-CABBAGE.--This variety presents a
    singular development, inasmuch as the stem swells out like a
    large turnip on the surface of the ground, the leaves shooting
    from it all round, and the top being surmounted by a cluster of
    leaves issuing from it. Although not generally grown as a garden
    vegetable, if used when young and tender, it is wholesome,
    nutritious, and very palatable.

BOILED BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

1096. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda.

_Mode_.--Clean the sprouts from insects, nicely wash them, and pick off
any dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides; put them into a
saucepan of _boiling_ water, with salt and soda in the above proportion;
keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly over a brisk fire
until tender; drain, dish, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, or
with a maître d'hôtel sauce poured over them. Another mode of serving
is, when they are dished, to stir in about 1-1/2 oz. of butter and a
seasoning of pepper and salt. They must, however, be sent to table very
quickly, as, being so very small, this vegetable soon cools. Where the
cook is very expeditious, this vegetable, when cooked, may be arranged
on the dish in the form of a pineapple, and, so served, has a very
pretty appearance.

_Time_.--From 9 to 12 minutes after the water boils.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. per peck.

_Sufficient_.--Allow between 40 and 50 for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

    SAVOYS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS.--When the Green Kale, or Borecole,
    has been advanced a step further in the path of improvement, it
    assumes the headed or hearting character, with blistered leaves;
    it is then known by the name of Savoys and Brussels Sprouts.
    Another of its headed forms, but with smooth glaucous leaves, is
    the cultivated Cabbage of our gardens (the _Borecole oleracea
    capitula_ of science); and all its varieties of green, red,
    dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and all the
    forms into which it is possible to put it.

TO BOIL YOUNG GREENS OR SPROUTS.

1097. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda.

[Illustration: BRUSSELS SPROUTS.]

_Mode_.--Pick away all the dead leaves, and wash the greens well in cold
water; drain them in a colander, and put them into fast-boiling water,
with salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep them boiling quickly,
with the lid uncovered, until tender; and the moment they are done, take
them up, or their colour will be spoiled; when well drained, serve. The
great art in cooking greens properly, and to have them a good colour, is
to put them into _plenty_ of _fast-boiling_ water, to let them boil very
quickly, and to take them up the moment they become tender.

_Time_.--Brocoli sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; young greens, 10 to 12
minutes; sprouts, 12 minutes, after the water boils.

_Seasonable_.--Sprouts of various kinds may be had all the year.

    GREEN KALE, OR BORECOLE.--When Colewort, or Wild Cabbage, is
    brought into a state of cultivation, its character becomes
    greatly improved, although it still retains the loose open
    leaves, and in this form it is called Green Kale, or Borecole.
    The scientific name is _Borecole oleracea acephala_, and of it
    there are many varieties, both as regards the form and colour of
    the leaves, as well as the height which the plants attain. We
    may observe, that among them, are included the Thousand-headed,
    and the Cow or Tree Cabbage.

BOILED CABBAGE.

1098. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda. _Mode_.--Pick off
all the dead outside leaves, cut off as much of the stalk as possible,
and cut the cabbages across twice, at the stalk end; if they should be
very large, quarter them. Wash them well in cold water, place them in a
colander, and drain; then put them into _plenty_ of _fast-boiling_
water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions.
Stir them down once or twice in the water, keep the pan uncovered, and
let them boil quickly until tender. The instant they are done, take them
up into a colander, place a plate over them, let them thoroughly drain,
dish, and serve.

_Time_.--Large cabbages, or savoys, 1/3 to 3/4 hour, young summer
cabbage, 10 to 12 minutes, after the water boils.

_Average cost_, 2d. each in full season.

_Sufficient_,--2 large ones for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Cabbages and sprouts of various kinds at any time.

    THE CABBAGE TRIBE: THEIR ORIGIN.--Of all the tribes of the
    _Cruciferae_ this is by far the most important. Its scientific
    name is _Brassiceae_, and it contains a collection of plants
    which, both in themselves and their products, occupy a prominent
    position in agriculture, commerce, and domestic economy. On the
    cliffs of Dover, and in many places on the coasts of
    Dorsetshire, Cornwall, and Yorkshire, there grows a wild plant,
    with variously-indented, much-waved, and loose spreading leaves,
    of a sea-green colour, and large yellow flowers. In spring, the
    leaves of this plant are collected by the inhabitants, who,
    after boiling them in two waters, to remove the saltness, use
    them as a vegetable along with their meat. This is the _Brassica
    oleracea_ of science, the Wild Cabbage, or Colewort, from which
    have originated all the varieties of Cabbage, Cauliflower,
    Greens, and Brocoli.

STEWED RED CABBAGE.

1099. INGREDIENTS.--1 red cabbage, a small slice of ham, 1/2 oz. of
fresh butter, 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Cut the cabbage into very thin slices, put it into a stewpan,
with the ham cut in dice, the butter, 1/2 pint of stock, and the
vinegar; cover the pan closely, and let it stew for 1 hour. When it is
very tender, add the remainder of the stock, a seasoning of salt and
pepper, and the pounded sugar; mix all well together, stir over the fire
until nearly all the liquor is dried away, and serve. Fried sausages are
usually sent to table with this dish: they should be laid round and on
the cabbage, as a garnish.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to January.

    THE WILD CABBAGE, OR COLEWORT.--This plant, as it is found on
    the sea-cliffs of England, presents us with the origin of the
    cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal form. In this state it
    is the true Collet, or Colewort, although the name is now
    applied to any young cabbage which has a loose and open heart.

BOILED CARROTS.

1100. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; carrots.

_Mode_.--Cut off the green tops, wash and scrape the carrots, and should
there be any black specks, remove them. If very large, cut them in
halves, divide them lengthwise into four pieces, and put them into
boiling water, salted in the above proportion; let them boil until
tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into them: dish,
and serve very hot. This vegetable is an indispensable accompaniment to
boiled beef. When thus served, it is usually boiled with the beef; a few
carrots are placed round the dish as a garnish, and the remainder sent
to table in a vegetable-dish. Young carrots do not require nearly so
much boiling, nor should they be divided: these make a nice addition to
stewed veal, &c.

_Time_.--Large carrots, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours; young ones, about 1/2
hour.

_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d, per bunch of 18.

_Sufficient_,--4 large carrots for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.

[Illustration: CARROTS.]

    ORIGIN OF THE CARROT.--In its wild state, this vegetable is
    found plentifully in Britain, both in cultivated lands and by
    waysides, and is known by the name of birds-nest, from its
    umbels of fruit becoming incurved from a hollow cup, like a
    birds-nest. In this state its root is whitish, slender, and
    hard, with an acrid, disagreeable taste, and a strong aromatic
    smell, and was formerly used as an aperient. When cultivated, it
    is reddish, thick, fleshy, with a pleasant odour, and a
    peculiar, sweet, mucilaginous taste. The carrot is said by
    naturalists not to contain much nourishing matter, and,
    generally speaking, is somewhat difficult of digestion.

TO DRESS CARROTS IN THE GERMAN WAY.

1101. INGREDIENTS.--8 large carrots, 3 oz. of butter, salt to taste, a
very little grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of finely-minced parsley, 1
dessertspoonful of minced onion, rather more than 1 pint of weak stock
or broth, 1 tablespoonful of flour.

_Mode_.--Wash and scrape the carrots, and cut them into rings of about
1/4 inch in thickness. Put the butter into a stewpan; when it is melted,
lay in the carrots, with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and onion in the above
proportions. Toss the stewpan over the fire for a few minutes, and when
the carrots are well saturated with the butter, pour in the stock, and
simmer gently until they are nearly tender. Then put into another
stewpan a small piece of butter; dredge in about a tablespoonful of
flour; stir this over the fire, and when of a nice brown colour, add the
liquor that the carrots have been boiling in; let this just boil up,
pour it over the carrots in the other stewpan, and let them finish
simmering until quite tender. Serve very hot.

This vegetable, dressed as above, is a favourite accompaniment of roast
pork, sausages, &c. &c.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.

    CONSTITUENTS OF THE CARROT.--These are crystallizable and
    uncrystallizable sugar, a little starch, extractive, gluten,
    albumen, volatile oil, vegetable jelly, or pectin, saline
    matter, malic acid, and a peculiar crystallizable ruby-red
    neuter principle, without odour or taste, called carotin. This
    vegetable jelly, or pectin, so named from its singular property
    of gelatinizing, is considered by some as another form of gum or
    mucilage, combined with vegetable acid. It exists more or less
    in all vegetables, and is especially abundant in those roots and
    fruits from which jellies are prepared.

STEWED CARROTS.

1102. INGREDIENTS.--7 or 8 large carrots, 1 teacupful of broth, pepper
and salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of cream, thickening of butter and
flour.

_Mode_.--Scrape the carrots nicely; half-boil, and slice them into a
stewpan; add the broth, pepper and salt, and cream; simmer till tender,
and be careful the carrots are not broken. A few minutes before serving,
mix a little flour with about 1 oz. of butter; thicken the gravy with
this; let it just boil up, and serve.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to parboil the carrots, about 20 minutes to cook
them after they are sliced.

_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.

    NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE CARROT.--Sir H. Davy ascertained the
    nutritive matter of the carrot to amount to ninety-eight parts
    in one thousand; of which ninety-five are sugar and three are
    starch. It is used in winter and spring in the dairy to give
    colour and flavour to butter; and it is excellent in stews,
    haricots, soups, and, when boiled whole, with salt beef. In the
    distillery, owing to the great proportion of sugar in its
    composition, it yields more spirit than the potato. The usual
    quantity is twelve gallons per ton.

SLICED CARROTS.

(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course, as a Side-dish.)

1103. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 large carrots, a large lump of sugar, 1 pint
of weak stock, 3 oz. of fresh butter, salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Scrape and wash the carrots, cut them into slices of an equal
size, and boil them in salt and water, until half done; drain them well,
put them into a stewpan with the sugar and stock, and let them boil over
a brisk fire. When reduced to a glaze, add the fresh butter and a
seasoning of salt; shake the stewpan about well, and when the butter is
well mixed with the carrots, serve. There should be no sauce in the dish
when it comes to table, but it should all adhere to the carrots.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.

_Sufficient_ for 1 dish.

_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.

    THE SEED OF THE CARROT.--In order to save the seed of carrots,
    the plan is, to select annually the most perfect and best-shaped
    roots in the taking-up season, and either preserve them in sand
    in a cellar till spring, or plant them immediately in an open
    airy part of the garden, protecting them with litter during
    severe frost, or earthing them over, and uncovering them in
    March following. The seed is in no danger from being injured by
    any other plant. In August it is fit to gather, and is best
    preserved on the stalks till wanted.

BOILED CAULIFLOWERS.

[Illustration: BOILED CAULIFLOWER.]

[Illustration: CAULIFLOWER.]

1104. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Choose cauliflowers that are close and white; trim off the
decayed outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom. Open
the flower a little in places to remove the insects, which generally are
found about the stalk, and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and water
for an hour previous to dressing them, with their heads downwards: this
will effectually draw out all the vermin. Then put them into
fast-boiling water, with the addition of salt in the above proportion,
and let them boil briskly over a good fire, keeping the saucepan
uncovered. The water should be well skimmed; and, when the cauliflowers
are tender, take them up with a slice; let them drain, and, if large
enough, place them upright in the dish. Serve with plain melted butter,
a little of which may be poured over the flower.

_Time_.--Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes, large one, 20 to 25
minutes, after the water boils.

_Average cost_, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.


CAULIFLOWERS A LA SAUCE BLANCHE.

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

1105. INGREDIENTS.--3 cauliflowers, 1/2 pint of sauce blanche, or French
melted butter, No. 378; 3 oz. of butter; salt and water.

_Mode_.--Cleanse the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe, and cut
the stalks off flat at the bottom; boil them until tender in salt and
water, to which the above proportion of butter has been added, and be
careful to take them up the moment they are done, or they will break,
and the appearance of the dish will be spoiled. Drain them well, and
dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower. Have ready 1/2 pint of
sauce, made by recipe No. 378, pour it over the flowers, and serve hot
and quickly.

_Time_.--Small cauliflowers, 12 to 15 minutes, large ones, 20 to 25
minutes, after the water boils.

_Average cost_,--large cauliflowers, in full season, 6d. each.

_Sufficient_,--1 large cauliflower for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.

    CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI.--These are only forms of the wild
    Cabbage in its cultivated state. They are both well known; but
    we may observe, that the purple and white Brocoli are only
    varieties of the Cauliflower.

CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

1106. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than 1/2 pint of
white sauce No. 378, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz.
of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers by recipe No. 1104, and drain
them and dish them with the flowers standing upright. Have ready the
above proportion of white sauce; pour sufficient of it over the
cauliflowers just to cover the top; sprinkle over this some rasped
Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter, which
should be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a salamander, or before the
fire, and pour round, but not over, the flowers the remainder of the
sauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated Parmesan
cheese.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for large cauliflowers,
6d. each.

_Sufficient_,--3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.


CELERY.

[Illustration: CELERY IN GLASS.]

1107. With a good heart, and nicely blanched, this vegetable is
generally eaten raw, and is usually served with the cheese. Let the
roots be washed free from dirt, all the decayed and outside leaves being
cut off, preserving as much of the stalk as possible, and all specks or
blemishes being carefully removed. Should the celery be large, divide it
lengthwise into quarters, and place it, root downwards, in a
celery-glass, which should be rather more than half filled with water.
The top leaves may be curled, by shredding them in narrow strips with
the point of a clean skewer, at a distance of about 4 inches from the
top.

_Average cost_, 2d. per head.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 heads for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

_Note_.--This vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups,
sauces, &c., and makes a very nice addition to winter salad.


STEWED CELERY A LA CREME.

1108. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow
1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1/3 pint of
cream.

_Mode_.--Wash the celery thoroughly; trim, and boil it in salt and water
until tender. Put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan; shake it
over the fire until the cream thickens, dish the celery, pour over the
sauce, and serve.

_Time_.--Large heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20
minutes.

_Average cost_. 2d. per head.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

ALEXANDERS.--This plant is the _Smyrnium olustratum_ of science, and is
used in this country in the same way in which celery is. It is a native
of Great Britain, and is found in its wild state near the seacoast. It
received its name from the Italian "herba Alexandrina," and is supposed
to have been originally brought from Alexandria; but, be this as it may,
its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned.


STEWED CELERY (with White Sauce).

I.

1109. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery, 1 oz. of butter; to each 1/2
gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 pint of white
sauce, No. 537 or 538.

_Mode_.--Have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery,
with salt and butter in the above proportion. Wash the celery well; cut
off the decayed outside leaves, trim away the green tops, and shape the
root into a point; put it into the boiling water; let it boil rapidly
until tender; then take it out, drain well, place it upon a dish, and
pour over about 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by either of the recipes
No. 537 or 538. It may also be plainly boiled as above, placed on toast,
and melted butter poured over, the same as asparagus is dished.

_Time_.--Large heads of celery, 25 minutes, small ones, 15 to 20
minutes, after the water boils.

_Average cost_, 2d. per head.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

    ORIGIN OF CELERY.--In the marshes and ditches of this country
    there is to be found a very common plant, known by the name of
    Smallage. This is the wild form of celery; but, by being
    subjected to cultivation, it loses its acrid nature, and becomes
    mild and sweet. In its natural state, it has a peculiar rank,
    coarse taste and smell, and its root was reckoned by the
    ancients as one of the "five greater aperient roots." There is a
    variety of this in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and
    large. It is called _Celeriae_, and is extensively used by the
    Germans, and preferred by them to celery. In a raw state, this
    plant does not suit weak stomachs; cooked, it is less difficult
    of digestion, although a large quantity should not he taken.

[Illustration: CELERY.].

II.

1110. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of white stock or weak
broth, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, thickening of butter and flour, 1
blade of pounded mace, a _very little_ grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to
taste.

_Mode_.--Wash the celery, strip off the outer leaves, and cut it into
lengths of about 4 inches. Put these into a saucepan, with the broth,
and stew till tender, which will be in from 20 to 25 minutes; then add
the remaining ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5 minutes, pour
into a dish, and serve. It may be garnished with sippets of toasted
bread.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2d. per head.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

_Note_.--By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, by stewing it a
little longer, and, when done, by pressing it through a sieve, the above
stew may be converted into a puree of celery.


TO DRESS CUCUMBERS.

1111. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, salt and pepper to taste; cucumber.

_Mode_.--Pare the cucumber, cut it equally into _very thin_ slices, and
_commence_ cutting from the _thick end_; if commenced at the stalk, the
cucumber will most likely have an exceedingly bitter taste, far from
agreeable. Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle over salt and pepper,
and pour over oil and vinegar in the above proportion; turn the cucumber
about, and it is ready to serve. This is a favourite accompaniment to
boiled salmon, is a nice addition to all descriptions of salads, and
makes a pretty garnish to lobster salad.

[Illustration: SLICED CUCUMBERS.]

[Illustration: CUCUMBER.]

_Average cost_, when scarce, 1s. to 2s. 6d.; when cheapest, may be had
for 4d. each.

_Seasonable_.--Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in
full season in July, August, and September.

    GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE CUCUMBERS.--This family is not
    known in the frigid zone, is somewhat rare in the temperate, but
    in the tropical and warmer regions throughout the world they are
    abundant. They are most plentiful in the continent of Hindostan;
    but in America are not near so plentiful. Many of the kinds
    supply useful articles of consumption for food, and others are
    actively medicinal in their virtues. Generally speaking,
    delicate stomachs should avoid this plant, for it is cold and
    indigestible.

CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE.

1112. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and vinegar, 2 oz. of butter,
flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a lump of
sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal thickness,
and let them remain in a pickle of salt and vinegar for 1/2 hour; then
drain them in a cloth, and put them into a stewpan with the butter. Fry
them over a brisk fire, but do not brown them, and then dredge over them
a little flour; add the broth, skim off all the fat, which will rise to
the surface, and boil gently until the gravy is somewhat reduced; but
the cucumber should not be broken. Stir in the yolks of the eggs, add
the parsley, sugar, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; bring the whole
to the point of boiling, and serve.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced,
from the beginning of March.


FRIED CUCUMBERS.

1113. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste, flour,
oil or butter.

_Mode_.--Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal
thickness, commencing to slice from the thick, and not the stalk end of
the cucumber. Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them with flour,
and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter; Keep turning them
about until brown; lift them out of the pan, let them drain, and serve,
piled lightly in a dish. These will be found a great improvement to
rump-steak: they should be placed on a dish with the steak on the top.

_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in
full season in July and August.

    PROPERTIES AND USES OF THE CUCURBITS.--The common cucumber is
    the C. sativus of science, and although the whole of the family
    have a similar action in the animal economy, yet there are some
    which present us with great anomalies. The roots of those which
    are perennial contain, besides fecula, which is their base, a
    resinous, acrid, and bitter principle. The fruits of this
    family, however, have in general a sugary taste, and are more or
    less dissolving and perfumed, as we find in the melons, gourds,
    cucumbers, vegetable-marrows, and squashes. But these are
    slightly laxative if partaken of largely. In tropical countries,
    this order furnishes the inhabitants with a large portion of
    their food, which, even in the most arid deserts and most barren
    islands, is of the finest quality. In China, Cashmere, and
    Persia, they are cultivated on the lakes on the floating
    collections of weeds common in these localities. In India they
    are everywhere abundant, either in a cultivated or wild state,
    and the seeds of all the family are sweet and mucilaginous.

STEWED CUCUMBERS.

1114. INGREDIENTS.--3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more than
1/2 pint of good brown gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they are
intended to be served in; empty them of the seeds, and put them into
boiling water with a little salt, and let them simmer for 5 minutes;
then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy, and
let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender. Should
these be bitter, add a lump of sugar; carefully dish them, skim the
sauce, pour over the cucumbers, and serve.

_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August; but may be had, forced, from the
beginning of March.

    THE CHATE.--This cucumber is a native of Egypt and Arabia, and
    produces a fruit of almost the same substance as that of the
    Melon. In Egypt it is esteemed by the upper class natives, as
    well as by Europeans, as the most pleasant fruit they have.

STEWED CUCUMBERS WITH ONIONS.

1115. INGREDIENTS.--6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized onions, not quite 1
pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, a
very little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Pare and slice the cucumbers, take out the seeds, and cut the
onions into thin slices; put these both into a stewpan, with the stock,
and let them boil for 1/4 hour or longer, should the cucumbers be very
large. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs; stir these into the sauce; add the
cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg; bring it to the point of boiling, and
serve. Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle. This is a
favourite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, &c.

_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced,
from the beginning of March.

    THE MELON.--This is another species of the cucumber, and is
    highly esteemed for its rich and delicious fruit. It was
    introduced to this country from Jamaica, in 1570; since which
    period it has continued to be cultivated. It was formerly called
    the Musk Melon.

ENDIVE.

[Illustration: ENDIVE.]

1116. This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, makes an excellent
addition to winter salad, when lettuces and other salad herbs are not
obtainable. It is usually placed in the centre of the dish, and looks
remarkably pretty with slices of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curled
celery placed round it, so that the colours contrast nicely. In
preparing it, carefully wash and cleanse it free from insects, which are
generally found near the heart; remove any decayed or dead leaves, and
dry it thoroughly by shaking in a cloth. This vegetable may also be
served hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter; but when dressed
thus, the sauce it is stewed in should not be very highly seasoned, as
that would destroy and overpower the flavour of the vegetable.

_Average cost_, 1d. per head.

_Sufficient_,--1 head for a salad for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

    ENDIVE.--This is the _C. endivium_ of science, and is much used
    as a salad. It belongs to the family of the _Compositae_, with
    Chicory, common Goats-beard, and others of the same genus.
    Withering states, that before the stems of the common
    Goats-beard shoot up the roots, boiled like asparagus, have the
    same flavour, and are nearly as nutritious. We are also informed
    by Villars that the children in Dauphiné universally eat the
    stems and leaves of the young plant before the flowers appear,
    with great avidity. The fresh juice of these tender herbs is
    said to be the best solvent of bile.

STEWED ENDIVE.

1117. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of broth,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a small
lump of sugar.

_Mode_.--Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove the
green part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly
salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; then take it out, drain it till
there is no water remaining, and chop it very fine. Put it into a
stewpan with the broth; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and boil
until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which may be
ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add a
thickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice: let the sauce boil
up, and serve.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.

_Average cost_, 1d. per head.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.


ENDIVE A LA FRANCAISE.

1118. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of endive, 1 pint of broth, 3 oz. of fresh
butter; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--Wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe; chop it
rather fine, and put into a stewpan with the broth; boil over a brisk
fire until the sauce is all reduced; then put in the butter, pepper,
salt, and grated nutmeg (the latter must be very sparingly used); mix
all well together, bring it to the boiling point, and serve very hot.

_Time_,--10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.

_Average cost_, 1d. per head.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.


TO BOIL HARICOTS BLANCS, or WHITE HARICOT BEANS.

1119. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 2 quarts of soft
water, 1 oz. of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Put the beans into cold water, and let them soak from 2 to 4
hours, according to their age; then put them into cold water, salted in
the above proportion, bring them to boil, and let them simmer very
slowly until tender; pour the water away from them, let them stand by
the side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan partially off, to
allow the beans to dry; then add 1 oz. of butter and a seasoning of
pepper and salt. Shake the beans about for a minute or two, and serve:
do not stir them with a spoon, for fear of breaking them to pieces.

_Time_.--After the water boils, from 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter, when other vegetables are scarce.

_Note_.--Haricots blancs, when new and fresh, should be put into boiling
water, and do not require any soaking previous to dressing.

    HARICOTS AND LENTILS.--Although these vegetables are not much
    used in this country, yet in France, and other Catholic
    countries, from their peculiar constituent properties, they form
    an excellent substitute for animal food during Lent and _maigre_
    days. At the time of the prevalence of the Roman religion in
    this country, they were probably much more generally used than
    at present. As reformations are often carried beyond necessity,
    possibly lentils may have fallen into disuse, as an article of
    diet amongst Protestants, for fear the use of them might be
    considered a sign of popery.

HARICOTS BLANCS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.

1120. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 1/4 lb. of fresh
butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, the
juice of 1/2 lemon.

[Illustration: HARICOT BEANS.]

_Mode_.--Should the beans be very dry, soak them for an hour or two in
cold water, and boil them until perfectly tender, as in the preceding
recipe. If the water should boil away, replenish it with a little more
cold, which makes the skin of the beans tender. Let them be very
thoroughly done; drain them well; then add to them the butter, minced
parsley, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Keep moving the stewpan
over the fire without using a spoon, as this would break the beans; and,
when the various ingredients are well mixed with them, squeeze in the
lemon-juice, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans.

_Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

    HARICOT BEANS.--This is the _haricot blanc_ of the French, and
    is a native of India. It ripens readily, in dry summers, in most
    parts of Britain, but its culture has hitherto been confined to
    gardens in England; but in Germany and Switzerland it is grown
    in fields. It is usually harvested by pulling up the plants,
    which, being dried, are stacked and thrashed. The haulm is both
    of little bulk and little use, but the seed is used in making
    the esteemed French dish called haricot, with which it were well
    if the working classes of this country were acquainted. There
    is, perhaps, no other vegetable dish so cheap and easily cooked,
    and, at the same time, so agreeable and nourishing. The beans
    are boiled, and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter, and
    a little milk or water and flour. From 3,840 parts of
    kidney-bean Einholff obtained 1,805 parts of matter analogous to
    starch, 351 of vegeto-animal matter, and 799 parts of mucilage.

HARICOT BEANS AND MINCED ONIONS.

1121. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 4 middling-sized
onions, 1/4 pint of good brown gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a little
flour.

_Mode_.--Peel and mince the onions not too finely, and fry them in
butter of a light brown colour; dredge over them a little flour, and add
the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Have ready a pint of
haricot beans well boiled and drained; put them with the onions and
gravy, mix all well together, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans; 5 minutes to fry the
onions.

_Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.


HORSERADISH.

1122. This root, scraped, is always served with hot roast beef, and is
used for garnishing many kinds of boiled fish. Let the horseradish
remain in cold water for an hour; wash it well, and with a sharp knife
scrape it into very thin shreds, commencing from the thick end of the
root. Arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish, and the
remainder use for garnishing the joint: it should be placed in tufts
round the border of the dish, with 1 or 2 bunches on the meat.

_Average cost_, 2d. per stick.

_Seasonable_ from October to June.

[Illustration: HORSERADISH.]

    THE HORSERADISH.--This belongs to the tribe _Alyssidae_, and is
    highly stimulant and exciting to the stomach. It has been
    recommended in chronic rheumatism, palsy, dropsical complaints,
    and in cases of enfeebled digestion. Its principal use, however,
    is as a condiment to promote appetite and excite the digestive
    organs. The horseradish contains sulphur to the extent of thirty
    per cent, in the number of its elements; and it is to the
    presence of this quality that the metal vessels in which the
    radish is sometimes distilled, are turned into a black colour.
    It is one of the most powerful excitants and antiscorbutics we
    have, and forms the basis of several medical preparations, in
    the form of wines, tinctures, and syrups.

LETTUCES.

1123. These form one of the principal ingredients to summer salads;
should be nicely blanched, and be eaten young. They are seldom served in
any other way, but may be stewed and sent to table in a good brown gravy
flavoured with lemon-juice. In preparing them for a salad, carefully
wash them free from dirt, pick off all the decayed and outer leaves, and
dry them thoroughly by shaking them in a cloth. Cut off the stalks, and
either halve or cut the lettuces into small pieces. The manner of
cutting them up entirely depends on the salad for which they are
intended. In France the lettuces are sometimes merely wiped with a cloth
and not washed, the cooks there declaring that the act of washing them
injuriously affects the pleasant crispness of the plant: in this case
scrupulous attention must be paid to each leaf, and the grit thoroughly
wiped away.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d. each.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 lettuces for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to the end of August, but may be had all the
year.

[Illustration: LETTUCE.]

    THE LETTUCE.--All the varieties of the garden lettuce have
    originated from the _Lactuca sativa_ of science, which has never
    yet been found in a wild state. Hence it may be concluded that
    it is merely another form of some species, changed through the
    effects of cultivation. In its young state, the lettuce forms a
    well-known and wholesome salad, containing a bland pellucid
    juice, with little taste or smell, and having a cooling and
    soothing influence on the system. This arises from the large
    quantities of water and mucilage it contains, and not from any
    narcotic principle which it is supposed to possess. During the
    period of flowering, it abounds in a peculiar milky juice, which
    flows from the stem when wounded, and which has been found to be
    possessed of decided medicinal properties.


BAKED MUSHROOMS.

(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)

1124. INGREDIENTS.--16 to 20 mushroom-flaps, butter, pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--For this mode of cooking, the mushroom flaps are better than
the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of the
stalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of
flannel and a little fine salt. Put them into a tin baking-dish, with a
very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over a
little pepper, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer should
the mushrooms be very large. Have ready a _very hot_ dish, pile the
mushrooms high in the centre, pour the gravy round, and send them to
table quickly, with very _hot_ plates.

_Time_.--20 minutes; large mushrooms, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1d. each for large mushroom-flaps.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated
mushrooms may be had at any time.

    FUNGI.--These are common parasitical plants, originating in the
    production of copious filamentous threads, called the mycelium,
    or spawn. Rounded tubers appear on the mycelium; some of these
    enlarge rapidly, burst an outer covering, which is left at the
    base, and protrude a thick stalk, bearing at its summit a
    rounded body, which in a short time expands into the pileus or
    cap. The gills, which occupy its lower surface, consist of
    parallel plates, bearing naked sporules over their whole
    surface. Some of the cells, which are visible by the microscope,
    produce four small cells at their free summit, apparently by
    germination and constriction. These are the sporules, and this
    is the development of the Agarics.

BROILED MUSHROOMS.

(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)

1125. INGREDIENTS.--Mushroom-flaps, pepper and salt to taste, butter,
lemon-juice.

[Illustration: BROILED MUSHROOMS.]

_Mode_.--Cleanse the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel
and a little salt; cut off a portion of the stalk, and peel the tops:
broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a
very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with
pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-juice. Place
the dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted, serve very hot
and quickly. Moderate-sized flaps are better suited to this mode of
cooking than the buttons: the latter are better in stews.

_Time_.--10 minutes for medium-sized mushrooms.

_Average cost_, 1d. each for large mushrooms.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 3 or 4 mushrooms to each person.

_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated
mushrooms may be had at any time.

[Illustration: MUSHROOMS.]

    VARIETIES OF THE MUSHROOM.--The common mushroom found in our
    pastures is the _Agaricus campestris_ of science, and another
    edible British species is _A. Georgii;_ but _A. primulus_ is
    affirmed to be the most delicious mushroom. The morel is
    _Morchella esculenta_, and _Tuber cibarium_ is the common
    truffle. There is in New Zealand a long fungus, which grows from
    the head of a caterpillar, and which forms a horn, as it were,
    and is called _Sphaeria Robertsii_.

TO PRESERVE MUSHROOMS.

1126. INGREDIENTS.--To each quart of mushrooms, allow 3 oz. of butter,
pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, clarified butter.

_Mode_.--Peel the mushrooms, put them into cold water, with a little
lemon-juice; take them out and _dry_ them very carefully in a cloth. Put
the butter into a stewpan capable of holding the mushrooms; when it is
melted, add the mushrooms, lemon-juice, and a seasoning of pepper and
salt; draw them down over a slow fire, and let them remain until their
liquor is boiled away, and they have become quite dry, but be careful in
not allowing them to stick to the bottom of the stewpan. When done, put
them into pots, and pour over the top clarified butter. If wanted for
immediate use, they will keep good a few days without being covered
over. To re-warm them, put the mushrooms into a stewpan, strain the
butter from them, and they will be ready for use.

_Average cost_, 1d. each.

_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated
mushrooms may be had at any time.

    LOCALITIES OF THE MUSHROOM.--Mushrooms are to be met with in
    pastures, woods, and marshes, but are very capricious and
    uncertain in their places of growth, multitudes being obtained
    in one season where few or none were to be found in the
    preceding. They sometimes grow solitary, but more frequently
    they are gregarious, and rise in a regular circular form. Many
    species are employed by man as food; but, generally speaking,
    they are difficult of digestion, and by no means very
    nourishing. Many of them are also of suspicious qualities.
    Little reliance can be placed either on their taste, smell, or
    colour, as much depends on the situation in which they vegetate;
    and even the same plant, it is affirmed, may be innocent when
    young, but become noxious when advanced in age.

STEWED MUSHROOMS.

1127. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint mushroom-buttons, 3 oz. of fresh butter,
white pepper and salt to taste, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of flour,
cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint of
mushroom-buttons; put them into a basin of water, with a little
lemon-juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from the
water with the hands, to avoid the sediment, and put them into a stewpan
with the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of 1/2 lemon;
cover the pan closely, and let the mushrooms stew gently from 20 to 25
minutes; then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, add
gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of a
proper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms are
not perfectly tender, stew them for 5 minutes longer, remove every
particle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 9d. to 2s. per pint.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October.

    TO PROCURE MUSHROOMS.--In order to obtain mushrooms at all
    seasons, several methods of propagation have been had recourse
    to. It is said that, in some parts of Italy, a species of stone
    is used for this purpose, which is described as being of two
    different kinds; the one is found in the chalk hills near
    Naples, and has a white, porous, stalactical appearance; the
    other is a hardened turf from some volcanic mountains near
    Florence. These stones are kept in cellars, and occasionally
    moistened with water which has been used in the washing of
    mushrooms, and are thus supplied with their minute seeds. In
    this country, gardeners provide themselves with what is called
    _spawn_, either from the old manure of cucumber-beds, or
    purchase it from those whose business it is to propagate it.
    When thus procured, it is usually made up for sale in quadrils,
    consisting of numerous white fibrous roots, having a strong
    smell of mushrooms. This is planted in rows, in a dry situation,
    and carefully attended to for five or six weeks, when the bed
    begins to produce, and continues to do so for several months.

STEWED MUSHROOMS IN GRAVY.

1128. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of mushroom-buttons, 1 pint of brown gravy
No. 436, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Make a pint of brown gravy by recipe 436; cut nearly all the
stalks away from the mushrooms and peel the tops; put them into a
stewpan, with the gravy, and simmer them gently from 20 minutes to 1/2
hour. Add the nutmeg and a seasoning of cayenne and salt, and serve very
hot.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 9d. to 2s. per pint.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October.

    ANALYSIS OF FUNGI.--The fungi have been examined chemically with
    much care, both by MM. Bracannot and Vauquelin, who designate
    the insoluble spongy matter by the name of fungin, and the
    soluble portion is found to contain the bolotic and the fungic
    acids.

BAKED SPANISH ONIONS.

1129. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water.

_Mode_.--Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of boiling
water slightly salted, and let them boil quickly for an hour. Then take
them out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece of paper
separately, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer,
should the onions be very large. They may be served in their skins, and
eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt; or
they may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured over them.

_Time_.--1 hour to boil, 2 hours to bake.

_Average cost_, medium-sized, 2d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to January.

[Illustration: ONION.]

    THE GENUS ALLIUM.--The Onion, like the Leek, Garlic, and Shalot,
    belongs to the genus _Allium_, which is a numerous species of
    vegetable; and every one of them possesses, more or less, a
    volatile and acrid penetrating principle, pricking the thin
    transparent membrane of the eyelids; and all are very similar in
    their properties. In the whole of them the bulb is the most
    active part, and any one of them may supply the place of the
    other; for they are all irritant, excitant, and vesicant. With
    many, the onion is a very great favourite, and is considered an
    extremely nutritive vegetable. The Spanish kind is frequently
    taken for supper, it being simply boiled, and then seasoned with
    salt, pepper, and butter. Some dredge on a little flour, but
    many prefer it without this.

BURNT ONIONS FOR GRAVIES.

1130. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of onions, 1/3 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of
moist sugar, 1/3 pint of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Peel and chop the onions fine, and put them into a stewpan (not
tinned), with the water; let them boil for 5 minutes, then add the
sugar, and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black and
throws out bubbles of smoke. Have ready the above proportion of boiling
vinegar, strain the liquor gradually to it, and keep stirring with a
wooden spoon until it is well incorporated. When cold, bottle for use.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour.

    PROPERTIES OF THE ONION.--The onion is possessed of a white,
    acrid, volatile oil, holding sulphur in solution, albumen, a
    good deal of uncrystallizable sugar and mucilage; phosphoric
    acid, both free and combined with lime; acetic acid, citrate of
    lime, and lignine. Of all the species of allium, the onion has
    the volatile principle in the greatest degree; and hence it is
    impossible to separate the scales of the root without the eyes
    being affected. The juice is sensibly acid, and is capable of
    being, by fermentation, converted into vinegar, and, mixed with
    water or the dregs of beer, yields, by distillation, an
    alcoholic liquor. Although used as a common esculent, onions are
    not suited to all stomachs; there are some who cannot eat them
    either fried or roasted, whilst others prefer them boiled, which
    is the best way of using them, as, by the process they then
    undergo, they are deprived of their essential oil. The pulp of
    roasted onions, with oil, forms an excellent anodyne and
    emollient poultice to suppurating tumours.

STEWED SPANISH ONIONS.

1131--INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth or
gravy.

_Mode_.--Peel the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of the
tops or tails, or they would then fall to pieces; put them into a
stewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them one on
the top of another; add the broth or gravy, and simmer _very gently_
until the onions are perfectly tender. Dish them, pour the gravy round,
and serve. Instead of using broth, Spanish onions may be stewed with a
large piece of butter: they must be done very gradually over a slow fire
or hot-plate, and will produce plenty of gravy.

_Time_.--To stew in gravy, 2 hours, or longer if very large.

_Average cost_.--medium-sized, 2d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to January.

_Note_.--Stewed Spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roast
shoulder of mutton.

    ORIGIN OF THE ONION.--This vegetable is thought to have
    originally come from India, through Egypt, where it became an
    object of worship. Thence it was transmitted to Greece, thence
    to Italy, and ultimately it was distributed throughout Europe,
    in almost every part of which it has, from time immemorial, been
    cultivated. In warm climates it is found to be less acrid and
    much sweeter than in colder latitudes; and in Spain it is not at
    all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion, as an Englishman
    would an apple. Spanish onions, which are imported to this
    country during the winter months, are, when properly roasted,
    perfectly sweet, and equal to many preserves.

BOILED PARSNIPS.

1132. INGREDIENTS.--Parsnips; to each gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Wash the parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and, with the point
of the knife, remove any black specks about them, and, should they be
very large, cut the thick part into quarters. Put them into a saucepan
of boiling water salted in the above proportion, boil them rapidly until
tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork in them; take them
up, drain them, and serve in a vegetable-dish. This vegetable is usually
served with salt fish, boiled pork, or boiled beef: when sent to table
with the latter, a few should be placed alternately with carrots round
the dish, as a garnish.

_Time_.--Large parsnips, 1 to 1-1/2 hour; small ones, 1/2 to 1 hour.

_Average cost_, 1d. each.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 for each person.

_Seasonable_ from October to May.

[Illustration: THE PARSNIP.]

    THE PARSNIP.--This vegetable is found wild in meadows all over
    Europe, and, in England, is met with very frequently on dry
    banks in a chalky soil. In its wild state, the root is white,
    mucilaginous, aromatic, and sweet, with some degree of acrimony:
    when old, it has been known to cause vertigo. Willis relates
    that a whole family fell into delirium from having eaten of its
    roots, and cattle never touch it in its wild state. In domestic
    economy the parsnip is much used, and is found to be a highly
    nutritious vegetable. In times of scarcity, an excellent bread
    has been made from the roots, and they also furnish an excellent
    wine, resembling the malmsey of Madeira and the Canaries: a
    spirit is also obtained from them in as great quantities as from
    carrots. The composition of the parsnip-root has been found to
    be 79.4 of water, 0.9 starch and fibre, 6.1 gum, 5.5 sugar, and
    2.1 of albumen.

BOILED GREEN PEAS.

1133. INGREDIENTS.--Green peas; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1
_small_ teaspoonful of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--This delicious vegetable, to be eaten in perfection, should be
young, and not _gathered_ or _shelled_ long before it is dressed. Shell
the peas, wash them well in cold water, and drain them; then put them
into a saucepan with plenty of _fast-boiling_ water, to which salt and
_moist sugar_ have been added in the above proportion; let them boil
quickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and
be careful that the smoke does not draw in. When tender, pour them into
a colander; put them into a hot vegetable-dish, and quite in the centre
of the peas place a piece of butter, the size of a walnut. Many cooks
boil a small bunch of mint _with_ the _peas_, or garnish them with it,
by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. Should the peas be
very old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a very tiny piece of soda
may be thrown in the water previous to putting them in; but this must be
very sparingly used, as it causes the peas, when boiled, to have a
smashed and broken appearance. With young peas, there is not the
slightest occasion to use it.

_Time_.--Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes; the large sorts, such as
marrowfats, &c., 18 to 24 minutes; old peas, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 6d. per peck; when first in season, 1s.
to 1s. 6d. per peck.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

    ORIGIN OF THE PEA.--All the varieties of garden peas which are
    cultivated have originated from the _Pisum sativum_, a native of
    the south of Europe; and field peas are varieties of _Pisum
    arvense_. The Everlasting Pea is _Lathyrus latifolius_, an old
    favourite in flower-gardens. It is said to yield an abundance of
    honey to bees, which are remarkably fond of it. In this country
    the pea has been grown from time immemorial; but its culture
    seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of
    herbage, plants, and roots.

GREEN PEAS A LA FRANCAISE.

1134. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of green peas, 3 oz. of fresh butter, a
bunch of parsley, 6 green onions, flour, a small lump of sugar, 1/2
teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour.

_Mode_.--Shell sufficient fresh-gathered peas to fill 2 quarts; put them
into cold water, with the above proportion of butter, and stir them
about until they are well covered with the butter; drain them in a
colander, and put them in a stewpan, with the parsley and onions; dredge
over them a little flour, stir the peas well, and moisten them with
boiling water; boil them quickly over a large fire for 20 minutes, or
until there is no liquor remaining. Dip a small lump of sugar into some
water, that it may soon melt; put it with the peas, to which add 1/2
teaspoonful of salt. Take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, work
it together with a teaspoonful of flour; and add this to the peas, which
should be boiling when it is put in. Keep shaking the stewpan, and, when
the peas are nicely thickened, dress them high in the dish, and serve.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per peck.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

    VARIETIES OF THE PEA.--The varieties of the Pea are numerous;
    but they may be divided into two classes--those grown for the
    ripened seed, and those grown for gathering in a green state.
    The culture of the latter is chiefly confined to the
    neighbourhoods of large towns, and may be considered as in part
    rather to belong to the operations of the gardener than to those
    of the agriculturist. The grey varieties are the early grey, the
    late grey, and the purple grey; to which some add the
    Marlborough grey and the horn grey. The white varieties grown in
    fields are the pearl, early Charlton, golden hotspur, the common
    white, or Suffolk, and other Suffolk varieties.

STEWED GREEN PEAS.

1135. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of peas, 1 Lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz. of
butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered
sugar.

_Mode_.--Shell the peas, and cut the onion and lettuce into slices; put
these into a stewpan, with the butter, pepper, and salt, but with no
more water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew
the whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour; then stir to it a
well-beaten egg, and about 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. When the
peas, &c., are nicely thickened, serve but, after the egg is added, do
not allow them to boil.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per peck.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

[Illustration: GREEN PEA.]

    THE SWEET-PEA AND THE HEATH OR WOOD-PEA.--The well-known
    sweet-pea forms a fine covering to a trellis, or lattice-work in
    a flower-garden. Its gay and fragrant flowers, with its rambling
    habit, render it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose. The
    wood-pea, or heath-pea, is found in the heaths of Scotland, and
    the Highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them,
    and dry and chew them to give a greater relish to their whiskey.
    They also regard them as good against chest complaints, and say
    that by the use of them they are enabled to withstand hunger and
    thirst for a long time. The peas have a sweet taste, somewhat
    like the root of liquorice, and, when boiled, have an agreeable
    flavour, and are nutritive. In times of scarcity they have
    served as an article of food. When well boiled, a fork will pass
    through them; and, slightly dried, they are roasted, and in
    Holland and Flanders served up like chestnuts.

BAKED POTATOES.

1136. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes.

[Illustration: BAKED POTATOES SERVED IN NAPKIN.]

_Mode_.--Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as possible; wash them
in lukewarm water, and scrub them well, for the browned skin of a baked
potato is by many persons considered the better part of it. Put them
into a moderate oven, and bake them for about 2 hours, turning them
three or four times whilst they are cooking. Serve them in a napkin
immediately they are done, as, if kept a long time in the oven, they
have a shrivelled appearance. Potatoes may also be roasted before the
fire, in an American oven; but when thus cooked, they must be done very
slowly. Do not forget to send to table with them a piece of cold butter.

_Time_.--Large potatoes, in a hot oven 1-1/2 hour to 2 hours; in a cool
oven, 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 to each person.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.

    POTATO-SUGAR.--This sugary substance, found in the tubers of
    potatoes, is obtained in the form of syrup or treacle, and has
    not yet been crystallized. It resembles the sugar of grapes,
    has a very sweet taste, and may be used for making sweetmeats,
    and as a substitute for honey. Sixty pounds of potatoes,
    yielding eight pounds of dry starch, will produce seven and a
    half pounds of sugar. In Russia it is extensively made, as
    good, though of less consistency than the treacle obtained from
    cane-sugar. A spirit is also distilled from the tubers, which
    resembles brandy, but is milder, and has a flavour as if it were
    charged with the odour of violets or raspberries. In France
    this manufacture is carried on pretty extensively, and five
    hundred pounds of the tubers will produce twelve quarts of
    spirit, the pulp being given to cattle.

TO BOIL POTATOES.

1137. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow
1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Choose potatoes of an equal size, pare them, take out all the
eyes and specks, and as they are peeled, throw them into cold water. Put
them into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover them, with
salt in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender.
Ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, and take them
up the moment they feel soft through; for if they are left in the water
afterwards, they become waxy or watery. Drain away the water, put the
saucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid partially uncovered, to
allow the steam to escape, and let the potatoes get thoroughly dry, and
do not allow them to get burnt. Their superfluous moisture will
evaporate, and the potatoes, if a good sort, should be perfectly mealy
and dry. Potatoes vary so much in quality and size, that it is difficult
to give the exact time for boiling; they should be attentively watched,
and probed with a fork, to ascertain when they are cooked. Send them to
table quickly, and very hot, and with an opening in the cover of the
dish, that a portion of the steam may evaporate, and not fall back on
the potatoes.

_Time_.--Moderate-sized old potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes after the water
boils; large ones, 1/2 hour to 35 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.

_Note_.--To keep potatoes hot, after draining the water from them, put a
folded cloth or flannel (kept for the purpose) on the top of them,
keeping the saucepan-lid partially uncovered. This will absorb the
moisture, and keep them hot some time without spoiling.

    THE POTATO.--The potato belongs to the family of the
    _Solanaceae_, the greater number of which inhabit the tropics,
    and the remainder are distributed over the temperate regions of
    both hemispheres, but do not extend to the arctic and antarctic
    zones. The whole of the family are suspicious; a great number
    are narcotic, and many are deleterious. The roots partake of the
    properties of the plants, and are sometimes even more active.
    The tubercles of such as produce them, are amylaceous and
    nutritive, as in those of the potato. The leaves are generally
    narcotic; but they lose this principle in boiling, as is the
    case with the _Solanum nigrum_, which are used as a vegetable
    when cooked.

TO BOIL POTATOES IN THEIR JACKETS.

1138. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water,
allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--To obtain this wholesome and delicious vegetable cooked in
perfection, it should be boiled and sent to table with the skin on. In
Ireland, where, perhaps, the cooking of potatoes is better understood
than in any country, they are always served so. Wash the potatoes well,
and if necessary, use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove the dirt from
them; and if possible, choose the potatoes so that they may all be as
nearly the same size as possible. When thoroughly cleansed, fill the
saucepan half full with them, and just cover the potatoes with cold
water, salted in the above proportion: they are more quickly boiled with
a small quantity of water, and, besides, are more savoury than when
drowned in it. Bring them to boil, then draw the pan to the side of the
fire, and let them simmer gently until tender. Ascertain when they are
done by probing them with a fork; then pour off the water, uncover the
saucepan, and let the potatoes dry by the side of the fire, taking care
not to let them burn. Peel them quickly, put them in a very hot
vegetable-dish, either with or without a napkin, and serve very quickly.
After potatoes are cooked, they should never be entirely covered up, as
the steam, instead of escaping, falls down on them, and makes them
watery and insipid. In Ireland they are usually served up with the skins
on, and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest.

_Time_.--Moderate-sized potatoes, with their skins on, 20 to 25 minutes
after the water boils; large potatoes, 25 minutes to 3/4 hour, or
longer; 5 minutes to dry them.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. Sufficient for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.

    ANALYSIS OF THE POTATO.--Next to the cereals, the potato is the
    most valuable plant for the production of human food. Its
    tubers, according to analysis conducted by Mr. Fromberg, in the
    laboratory of the Agricultural Chemical Association in Scotland,
    contain the following ingredients:--75.52 per cent. of water,
    15.72 starch, O.55 dextrine, 3.3 of impure saccharine matter,
    and 3.25 of fibre with coagulated albumen. In a dried state the
    tuber contains 64.2 per cent, of starch, 2.25 of dextrine, 13.47
    of impure saccharine matter, 5.77 of caseine, gluten, and
    albumen, 1 of fatty matter, and 13.31 of fibre with coagulated
    albumen.

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.

1139. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed, as
they are never good when they have been out of the ground some time.
Well wash them, rub off the skins with a coarse cloth, and put them into
_boiling_ water salted in the above proportion. Let them boil until
tender; try them with a fork, and when done, pour the water away from
them; let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid of the
saucepan partially uncovered, and when the potatoes are thoroughly dry,
put them into a hot vegetable-dish, with a piece of butter the size of a
walnut; pile the potatoes over this, and serve. If the potatoes are too
old to have the skins rubbed off, boil them in their jackets; drain,
peel, and serve them as above, with a piece of butter placed in the
midst of them.

_Time_.--1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to the size.

_Average cost_, in full season, 1d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 3 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in May and June, but may be had, forced, in March.

    POTATO STARCH.--This fecula has a beautiful white crystalline
    appearance, and is inodorous, soft to the touch, insoluble in
    cold, but readily soluble in boiling water. It is on this starch
    that the nutritive properties of the tubers depend. As an
    aliment, it is well adapted for invalids and persons of delicate
    constitution. It may be used in the form of arrow-root, and
    eaten with milk or sugar. For pastry of all kinds it is more
    light and easier of digestion than that made with flour of
    wheat. In confectionery it serves to form creams and jellies,
    and in cookery may be used to thicken soups and sauces. It
    accommodates itself to the chest and stomach of children, for
    whom it is well adapted; and it is an aliment that cannot be too
    generally used, as much on account of its wholesomeness as its
    cheapness, and the ease with which it is kept, which are equal,
    if not superior, to all the much-vaunted exotic feculae; as,
    salep, tapioca, sago, and arrow-root.

TO STEAM POTATOES.

1140. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; boiling water.

_Mode_.--This mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue,
particularly where they are wanted on a large scale, it being so very
convenient. Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water as they are
peeled, then put them into a steamer. Place the steamer over a saucepan
of boiling water, and steam the potatoes from 20 to 40 minutes,
according to the size and sort. When a fork goes easily through them,
they are done; then take them up, dish, and serve very quickly.

_Time_.--20 to 40 minutes. _Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 large potatoes to each person.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not so good whilst new potatoes are in
season.

    USES OF THE POTATO.--Potatoes boiled and beaten along with sour
    milk form a sort of cheese, which is made in Saxony; and, when
    kept in close vessels, may be preserved for several years. It is
    generally supposed that the water in which potatoes are boiled
    is injurious; and as instances are recorded where cattle having
    drunk it were seriously affected, it may be well to err on the
    safe side, and avoid its use for any alimentary purpose.
    Potatoes which have been exposed to the air and become green,
    are very unwholesome. Cadet de Vaux asserts that potatoes will
    clean linen as well as soap; and it is well known that the
    berries of the _S. saponaceum_ are used in Peru for the same
    purpose.

HOW TO USE COLD POTATOES.

1141. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold potatoes; to every lb. allow 2
tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 ditto of minced onions, 1 oz. of butter,
milk.

_Mode_.--Mash the potatoes with a fork until perfectly free from lumps;
stir in the other ingredients, and add sufficient milk to moisten them
well; press the potatoes into a mould, and bake in a moderate oven until
nicely brown, which will be in from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn them
out of the mould, and serve.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    POTATO BREAD.--The manner in which this is made is very simple.
    The adhesive tendency of the flour of the potato acts against
    its being baked or kneaded without being mixed with wheaten
    flour or meal; it may, however, be made into cakes in the
    following manner:--A small wooden frame, nearly square, is laid
    on a pan like a frying-pan and is grooved, and so constructed
    that, by means of a presser or lid introduced into the groove,
    the cake is at once fashioned, according to the dimensions of
    the mould. The frame containing the farina may be almost
    immediately withdrawn after the mould is formed upon the pan;
    because, from the consistency imparted to the incipient cake by
    the heat, it will speedily admit of being safely handled: it
    must not, however, be fried too hastily. It will then eat very
    palatably, and might from time to time be soaked for puddings,
    like tapioca, or might be used like the cassada-cake, for, when
    well buttered and toasted, it will be found an excellent
    accompaniment to breakfast. In Scotland, cold boiled potatoes
    are frequently squeezed up and mixed with flour or oatmeal, and
    an excellent cake, or _scon_, obtained.

FRIED POTATOES (French Fashion).

1142. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, hot butter or clarified dripping, salt.

_Mode_.--Peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as nearly the same
size as possible; make some butter or dripping quite hot in a
frying-pan; put in the potatoes, and fry them on both sides of a nice
brown. When they are crisp and done, take them up, place them on a cloth
before the fire to drain the grease from them, and serve very hot, after
sprinkling them with salt. These are delicious with rump-steak, and, in
France, are frequently served thus as a breakfast dish. The remains of
cold potatoes may also be sliced and fried by the above recipe, but the
slices must be cut a little thicker.

_Time_.--Sliced raw potatoes, 5 minutes; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_,--6 sliced potatoes for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


A GERMAN METHOD OF COOKING POTATOES.

1143. INGREDIENTS.--8 to 10 middling-sized potatoes, 3 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Put the butter and flour into a stewpan; stir over the fire
until the butter is of a nice brown colour, and add the broth and
vinegar; peel and cut the potatoes into long thin slices, lay them in
the gravy, and let them simmer gently until tender, which will be in
from 10 to 15 minutes, and serve very hot. A laurel-leaf simmered with
the potatoes is an improvement.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    PRESERVING POTATOES.--In general, potatoes are stored or
    preserved in pits, cellars, pies, or camps; but, whatever mode
    is adopted, it is essential that the tubers be perfectly dry;
    otherwise, they will surely rot; and a few rotten potatoes will
    contaminate a whole mass. The pie, as it is called, consists of
    a trench, lined and covered with straw; the potatoes in it being
    piled in the shape of a house roof, to the height of about three
    feet. The camps are shallow pits, filled and ridged up in a
    similar manner, covered up with the excavated mould of the pit.
    In Russia and Canada, the potato is preserved in boxes, in
    houses or cellars, heated, when necessary, to a temperature one
    or two degrees above the freezing-point, by stoves. To keep
    potatoes for a considerable time, the best way is to place them
    in thin layers on a platform suspended in an ice-cellar: there,
    the temperature being always below that of active vegetation,
    they will not sprout; while, not being above one or two degrees
    below the freezing-point, the tubers will not be frostbitten.
    Another mode is to scoop out the eyes with a very small scoop,
    and keep the roots buried in earth; a third mode is to destroy
    the vital principle, by kiln-drying, steaming, or scalding; a
    fourth is to bury them so deep in dry soil, that no change of
    temperature will reach them; and thus, being without air, they
    will remain upwards of a year without vegetating.

POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.

1144. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, salt and water; to every 6 potatoes allow
1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to
taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them in salt and water by
recipe No. 1138; when they are done, drain them, let them cool; then
peel and cut the potatoes into thick slices: if these are too thin, they
would break in the sauce. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pepper,
salt, gravy, and parsley; mix these ingredients well together, put in
the potatoes, shake them two or three times, that they may be well
covered with the sauce, and, when quite hot through, squeeze in the
lemon-juice, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes; 10 minutes for them to
heat in the sauce.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ all the year.


MASHED POTATOES.

1145. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; to every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1
oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes in their skins; when done, drain them, and
let them get thoroughly dry by the side of the fire; then peel them,
and, as they are peeled, put them into a clean saucepan, and with a
large fork beat them to a light paste; add butter, milk, and salt in the
above proportion, and stir all the ingredients well over the fire. When
thoroughly hot, dish them lightly, and draw the fork backwards over the
potatoes to make the surface rough, and serve. When dressed in this
manner, they may be browned at the top with a salamander, or before the
fire. Some cooks press the potatoes into moulds, then turn them out, and
brown them in the oven: this is a pretty mode of serving, but it makes
them heavy. In whatever way they are sent to table, care must be taken
to have them quite free from lumps.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_,--1 lb. of mashed potatoes for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE, or, Very Thin-mashed Potatoes.

1146. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1/4 pint of
good broth or stock, 2 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes, well drain them, and pound them smoothly in
a mortar, or beat them up with a fork; add the stock or broth, and rub
the potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very clean saucepan
with the butter; stir it well over the fire until thoroughly hot, and it
will then be ready to serve. A puree should be rather thinner than
mashed potatoes, and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled
mutton cutlets. Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when the
latter is not at hand. A casserole of potatoes, which is often used for
ragoûts instead of rice, is made by mashing potatoes rather thickly,
placing them on a dish, and making an opening in the centre. After
having browned the potatoes in the oven, the dish should be wiped clean,
and the ragout or fricassée poured in.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to boil the potatoes; 6 or 7 minutes to warm the
purée.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of cooked potatoes for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: SWEET POTATO.]

    VARIETIES OF THE POTATO.--These are very numerous. "They
    differ," says an authority, "in their leaves and bulk of haulm;
    in the colour of the skin of the tubers; in the colour of the
    interior, compared with that of the skin; in the time of
    ripening; in being farinaceous, glutinous, or watery; in tasting
    agreeably or disagreeably; in cooking readily or tediously; in
    the length of the subterraneous _stolones_ to which the tubers
    are attached; in blossoming or not blossoming; and finally, in
    the soil which they prefer." The earliest varieties grown in
    fields are,--the Early Kidney, the Nonsuch, the Early Shaw, and
    the Early Champion. This last is the most generally cultivated
    round London: it is both mealy and hardy. The sweet potato is
    but rarely eaten in Britain; but in America it is often served
    at table, and is there very highly esteemed.

POTATO RISSOLES.

1147. INGREDIENTS.--Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste; when
liked, a very little minced parsley, egg, and bread crumbs.

[Illustration: POTATO RISSOLES.]

_Mode_.--Boil and mash the potatoes by recipe No. 1145; add a seasoning
of pepper and salt, and, when liked, a little minced parsley. Roll the
potatoes into small balls, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry
in hot lard for about 10 minutes; let them drain before the fire, dish
them on a napkin, and serve.

_Time_,--10 minutes to fry the rissoles.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The flavour of these rissoles may be very much increased by
adding finely-minced tongue or ham, or even chopped onions, when these
are liked.

    QUALITIES OF POTATOES.--In making a choice from the many
    varieties of potatoes which are everywhere found, the best way
    is to get a sample and taste them, and then fix upon the kind
    which best pleases your palate. The Shaw is one of the most
    esteemed of the early potatoes for field culture; and the Kidney
    and Bread-fruit are also good sorts. The Lancashire Pink is also
    a good potato, and is much cultivated in the neighbourhood of
    Liverpool. As late or long-keeping potatoes, the Tartan or
    Red-apple stands very high in favour.

POTATO SNOW.

1148. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, salt, and water.

_Mode_.--Choose large white potatoes, as free from spots as possible;
boil them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender; drain
and _dry them thoroughly_ by the side of the fire, and peel them. Put a
hot dish before the fire, rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on to
this dish; do not touch them afterwards, or the flakes will fall, and
serve as hot as possible.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_,--6 potatoes for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE POTATO AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD.--This valuable esculent,
    next to wheat, is of the greatest importance in the eye of the
    political economist. From no other crop that can be cultivated
    does the public derive so much benefit; and it has been
    demonstrated that an acre of potatoes will feed double the
    number of people that can be fed from an acre of wheat.

TO DRESS SALSIFY.

1149. INGREDIENTS.--Salsify; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of their
outside peel; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and, as they are
peeled, throw them into water with which has been mixed a little
lemon-juice, to prevent their discolouring. Put them into boiling water,
with salt, butter, and lemon-juice in the above proportion, and let them
boil rapidly until tender; try them with a fork; and, when it penetrates
easily, they are done. Drain the salsify, and serve with a good white
sauce or French melted butter.

_Time_.--30 to 50 minutes. _Seasonable_ in winter.

_Note_.--This vegetable may be also boiled, sliced, and fried in batter
of a nice brown. When crisp and a good colour, they should be served
with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little fine salt
sprinkled over the salsify.

    SALSIFY.--This esculent is, for the sake of its roots,
    cultivated in gardens. It belongs to the Composite class of
    flowers, which is the most extensive family in the vegetable
    kingdom. This family is not only one of the most natural and
    most uniform in structure, but there is also a great similarity
    existing in the properties of the plants of which it is
    composed. Generally speaking, all composite flowers are tonic or
    stimulant in their medical virtues.

BOILED SEA-KALE.

1150. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.

[Illustration: BOILED SEA-KALE.]

_Mode_.--Well wash the kale, cut away any wormeaten pieces, and tie it
into small bunches; put it into _boiling_ water, salted in the above
proportion, and let it boil quickly until tender. Take it out, drain,
untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce, a
little of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also be
parboiled and stewed in good brown gravy: it will then take about 1/2
hour altogether.

_Time_.--15 minutes; when liked very thoroughly done, allow an extra 5
minutes.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 12 heads for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from February to June.

[Illustration: SEA-KALE.]

    SEA-KALE.--This plant belongs to the Asparagus tribe, and grows
    on seashores, especially in the West of England, and in the
    neighbourhood of Dublin. Although it is now in very general use,
    it did not come into repute till 1794. It is easily cultivated,
    and is esteemed as one of the most valuable esculents indigenous
    to Britain. As a vegetable, it is stimulating to the appetite,
    easily digestible, and nutritious. It is so light that the most
    delicate organizations may readily eat it. The flowers form a
    favourite resort for bees, as their petals contain a great
    amount of saccharine matter.

BOILED SALAD.

1151. INGREDIENTS.--2 heads of celery, 1 pint of French beans, lettuce,
and endive.

[Illustration: FRENCH BEANS.]

[Illustration: CHERVIL.]

_Mode_.--Boil the celery and beans separately until tender, and cut the
celery into pieces about 2 inches long. Put these into a salad-bowl or
dish; pour over either of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and garnish
the dish with a little lettuce finely chopped, blanched endive, or a few
tufts of boiled cauliflower. This composition, if less agreeable than
vegetables in their raw state, is more wholesome; for salads, however
they may be compounded, when eaten uncooked, prove to some people
indigestible. Tarragon, chervil, burnet, and boiled onion, may be added
to the above salad with advantage, as also slices of cold meat, poultry,
or fish.

_Seasonable_ from July to October.

    ACETARIOUS VEGETABLES.--By the term Acetarious vegetables, is
    expressed a numerous class of plants, of various culture and
    habit, which are principally used as salads, pickles, and
    condiments. They are to be considered rather as articles of
    comparative luxury than as ordinary food, and are more desirable
    for their coolness, or their agreeable flavour, than for their
    nutritive powers.

    CAULIFLOWER.--The cauliflower is less indigestible than the
    cabbage; it possesses a most agreeable flavour, and is
    sufficiently delicate to be served at the tables of the wealthy.
    It is a wholesome vegetable, but should be eaten moderately, as
    it induces flatulence. Persons of weak constitutions and
    delicate stomachs should abstain from cauliflower as much as
    possible. They may be prepared in a variety of ways; and, in
    selecting them, the whitest should be chosen; those tinged with
    green or yellow being of indifferent quality.

SUMMER SALAD.

1152. INGREDIENTS.--3 lettuces, 2 handfuls of mustard-and-cress, 10
young radishes, a few slices of cucumber.

[Illustration: SALAD IN BOWL.]

_Mode_.--Let the herbs be as fresh as possible for a salad, and, if at
all stale or dead-looking, let them lie in water for an hour or two,
which will very much refresh them. Wash and carefully pick them over,
remove any decayed or wormeaten leaves, and drain them thoroughly by
swinging them gently in a clean cloth. With a silver knife, cut the
lettuces into small pieces, and the radishes and cucumbers into thin
slices; arrange all these ingredients lightly on a dish, with the
mustard-and-cress, and pour under, but not over the salad, either of the
sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and do not stir it up until it is to be
eaten. It may be garnished with hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, sliced
cucumbers, nasturtiums, cut vegetable-flowers, and many other things
that taste will always suggest to make a pretty and elegant dish. In
making a good salad, care must be taken to have the herbs freshly
gathered, and _thoroughly drained_ before the sauce is added to them, or
it will be watery and thin. Young spring onions, cut small, are by many
persons considered an improvement to salads; but, before these are
added, the cook should always consult the taste of her employer. Slices
of cold meat or poultry added to a salad make a convenient and
quickly-made summer luncheon-dish; or cold fish, flaked, will also be
found exceedingly nice, mixed with it.

_Average cost_, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons; but more expensive
when the herbs are forced.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from May to September.

    CUCUMBERS.--The cucumber is refreshing, but neither nutritious
    nor digestible, and should be excluded from the regimen of the
    delicate. There are various modes of preparing cucumbers. When
    gathered young, they are called gherkins: these, pickled, are
    much used in seasonings.

    [Illustration: CUCUMBER-SLICE.]

    RADISHES.--This is the common name given to the root of the
    _Raphanus satious_, one of the varieties of the cultivated
    horseradish. There are red and white radishes; and the French
    have also what they call violet and black ones, of which the
    black are the larger. Radishes are composed of nearly the same
    constituents as turnips, that is to say, mostly fibre and
    nitrogen; and, being generally eaten raw, it is on the last of
    these that their flavour depends. They do not agree with people,
    except those who are in good health, and have active digestive
    powers; for they are difficult of digestion, and cause
    flatulency and wind, and are the cause of headaches when eaten
    to excess. Besides being eaten raw, they are sometimes, but
    rarely, boiled; and they also serve as a pretty garnish for
    salads. In China, the radish may be found growing naturally,
    without cultivation; and may be occasionally met with in England
    as a weed, in similar places to where the wild turnip grows; it,
    however, thrives best in the garden, and the ground it likes
    best is a deep open loam, or a well-manured sandy soil.

[Illustration: TURNIP RADISHES.]

[Illustration: LONG RADISHES.]

WINTER SALAD.

1153. INGREDIENTS.--Endive, mustard-and-cress, boiled beetroot, 3 or 4
hard-boiled eggs, celery.

_Mode_.--The above ingredients form the principal constituents of a
winter salad, and may be converted into a very pretty dish, by nicely
contrasting the various colours, and by tastefully garnishing it. Shred
the celery into thin pieces, after having carefully washed and cut away
all wormeaten pieces; cleanse the endive and mustard-and-cress free from
grit, and arrange these high in the centre of a salad-bowl or dish;
garnish with the hard-boiled eggs and beetroot, both of which should be
cut in slices; and pour into the dish, but not over the salad, either of
the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508. Never dress a salad long before it is
required for table, as, by standing, it loses its freshness and pretty
crisp and light appearance; the sauce, however, may always be prepared a
few hours beforehand, and when required for use, the herbs laid lightly
over it.

_Average cost_, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the end of September to March.

    SALADS.--Salads are raw vegetables, of which, among us, the
    lettuce is the most generally used; several others, however,
    such as cresses, celery, onions, beetroot, &c., are occasionally
    employed. As vegetables eaten in a raw state are apt to ferment
    on the stomach, and as they have very little stimulative power
    upon that organ, they are usually dressed with some condiments,
    such as pepper, vinegar, salt, mustard, and oil. Respecting the
    use of these, medical men disagree, especially in reference to
    oil, which is condemned by some and recommended by others.

POTATO SALAD.

1154. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 cold boiled potatoes, 4 tablespoonfuls of
tarragon or plain vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley.

_Mode_.--Cut the potatoes into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; put
these into a salad-bowl with oil and vinegar in the above proportion;
season with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley; stir the
salad well, that all the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated, and
it is ready to serve. This should be made two or three hours before it
is wanted for table. Anchovies, olives, or pickles may be added to this
salad, as also slices of cold beef, fowl, or turkey.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

CHICKEN SALAD.--(See No. 931.)

GROUSE SALAD.--(See No. 1020.)

LOBSTER SALAD.--(See No. 272.)


TO BOIL SPINACH (English Mode).

1155. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of
salt, 1 oz. of butter, pepper to taste.

[Illustration: SPINACH GARNISHED WITH CROÛTONS.]

_Mode_.--Pick the spinach carefully, and see that no stalks or weeds are
left amongst it; wash it in several waters, and, to prevent it being
gritty, act in the following manner:--Have ready two large pans or tubs
filled with water; put the spinach into one of these, and thoroughly
wash it; then, _with the hands_, take out the spinach, and put it into
the _other tub_ of water (by this means all the grit will be left at the
bottom of the tub); wash it again, and, should it not be perfectly free
from dirt, repeat the process. Put it into a very large saucepan, with
about 1/2 pint of water, just sufficient to keep the spinach from
burning, and the above proportion of salt. Press it down frequently with
a wooden spoon, that it may be done equally; and when it has boiled for
rather more than 10 minutes, or until it is perfectly tender, drain it
in a colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it finely. Put the spinach
into a clean stewpan, with the butter and a seasoning of pepper; stir
the whole over the fire until quite hot; then put it on a hot dish, and
garnish with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to warm with
the butter.

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from
November to March.

_Note_.--Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, or lemon-juice may also be added
to enrich the flavour; and poached eggs are also frequently served with
spinach: they should be placed on the top of it, and it should be
garnished with sippets of toasted bread.--See coloured plate U.

    VARIETIES OF SPINACH.--These comprise the Strawberry spinach,
    which, under that name, was wont to be grown in our
    flower-gardens; the Good King Harry, the Garden Oracle, the
    Prickly, and the Round, are the varieties commonly used. The
    Oracle is a hardy sort, much esteemed in France, and is a native
    of Tartary, introduced in 1548. The common spinach has its
    leaves round, and is softer and more succulent than any of the
    Brassica tribe.

SPINACH DRESSED WITH CREAM, a la Francaise.

1156. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2
oz. of butter, 8 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 small teaspoonful of pounded
sugar, a very little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Boil and drain the spinach as in recipe No. 1155; chop it
finely, and put it into a stewpan with the butter; stir over a gentle
fire, and, when the butter has dried away, add the remaining
ingredients, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Previously to adding the
cream, boil it first, in case it should curdle. Serve on a hot dish, and
garnish either with sippets of toasted bread or leaves of puff-paste.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to stew with
the cream.

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from
November to March.

[Illustration: SPINACH.]

    SPINACH.--This is a Persian plant. It has been cultivated in our
    gardens about two hundred years, and is the most wholesome of
    vegetables. It is not very nutritious, but is very easily
    digested. It is very light and laxative. Wonderful properties
    have been ascribed to spinach. It is an excellent vegetable, and
    very beneficial to health. Plainly dressed, it is a resource for
    the poor; prepared luxuriantly, it is a choice dish for the
    rich.

    SPINACH.--This vegetable belongs to a sub-order of the
    _Salsolaceae_, or saltworts, and is classified under the head of
    _Spirolobeae_, with leaves shaped like worms, and of a succulent
    kind. In its geographical distribution it is commonly found in
    extratropical and temperate regions, where they grow as weeds in
    waste places, and among rubbish, and in marshes by the seashore.
    In the tropics the order is rarely found. Many of them are used
    as potherbs, and some of them are emetic and vermifuge in their
    medicinal properties.

FRENCH MODE OF DRESSING SPINACH.

1157. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2
oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 8 tablespoonfuls of good gravy;
when liked, a very little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Pick, wash, and boil the spinach, as in recipe No. 1155, and
when quite tender, drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from the water
that hangs about it. Chop it very fine, put the butter into a stewpan,
and lay the spinach over that; stir it over a gentle fire, and dredge in
the flour. Add the gravy, and let it boil _quickly_ for a few minutes,
that it may not discolour. When the flavour of nutmeg is liked, grate
some to the spinach, and when thoroughly hot, and the gravy has dried
away a little, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to simmer in
the gravy.

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from
October to February.

_Note_.--For an entremets or second-course dish, spinach, dressed by the
above recipe may be pressed into a hot mould; it should then be turned
out quickly, and served very hot.


BAKED TOMATOES.

(_Excellent_.)

1158. INGREDIENTS.--8 or 10 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of
butter, bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Take off the stalks from the tomatoes; cut them into thick
slices, and put them into a deep baking-dish; add a plentiful seasoning
of pepper and salt, and butter in the above proportion; cover the whole
with bread crumbs; drop over these a little clarified butter; bake in a
moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, and serve very hot. This
vegetable, dressed as above, is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to all
kinds of roast meat. The tomatoes, instead of being cut in slices, may
be baked whole; but they will take rather longer time to cook.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; but may be had, forced,
much earlier.

[Illustration: THE TOMATO.]

    TOMATOES.--The Tomato is a native of tropical countries, but is
    now cultivated considerably both in France and England. Its skin
    is of a brilliant red, and its flavour, which is somewhat sour,
    has become of immense importance in the culinary art. It is used
    both fresh and preserved. When eaten fresh, it is served as an
    _entremets_; but its principal use is in sauce and gravy; its
    flavour stimulates the appetite, and is almost universally
    approved. The Tomato is a wholesome fruit, and digests easily.
    From July to September, they gather the tomatoes green in
    France, not breaking them away from the stalk; they are then
    hung, head downwards, in a dry and not too cold place; and there
    they ripen.

HOT TOMATO SAUCE, or PUREE OF TOMATOES.

(See No. 529.)

[Illustration: STEWED TOMATOES.]

STEWED TOMATOES.

I.

1159. INGREDIENTS.--8 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of
butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Slice the tomatoes into a _lined_ saucepan; season them with
pepper and salt, and place small pieces of butter on them. Cover the lid
down closely, and stew from 20 to 25 minutes, or until the tomatoes are
perfectly tender; add the vinegar, stir two or three times, and serve
with any kind of roast meat, with which they will be found a delicious
accompaniment.

_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to October; but may be had, forced, much
earlier.

    ANALYSIS OF THE TOMATO.--The fruit of the love-apple is the only
    part used as an esculent, and it has been found to contain a
    particular acid, a volatile oil, a brown, very fragrant
    extracto-resinous matter, a vegeto-mineral matter,
    muco-saccharine, some salts, and, in all probability, an
    alkaloid. The whole plant has a disagreeable odour, and its
    juice, subjected to the action of the fire, emits a vapour so
    powerful as to cause vertigo and vomiting.

II.

1160. INGREDIENTS.--8 tomatoes, about 1/2 pint of good gravy, thickening
of butter and flour, cayenne and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Take out the stalks of the tomatoes; put them into a wide
stewpan, pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy, and
stew gently until they are tender, occasionally _carefully_ turning
them, that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy with a little
butter and flour worked together on a plate; let it just boil up after
the thickening is added, and serve. If it be at hand, these should be
served on a silver or plated vegetable-dish.

_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes, very gentle stewing.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; but maybe had, forced,
much earlier.

    THE TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.--This vegetable is a native of Mexico
    and South America, but is also found in the East Indies, where
    it is supposed to have been introduced by the Spaniards. In this
    country it is much more cultivated than it formerly was; and the
    more the community becomes acquainted with the many agreeable
    forms in which the fruit can be prepared, the more widely will
    its cultivation be extended. For ketchup, soups, and sauces, it
    is equally applicable, and the unripe fruit makes one of the
    best pickles.

TRUFFLES AU NATUREL.

1161. INGREDIENTS.--Truffles, buttered paper.

_Mode_.--Select some fine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them in
several waters with a brush, until not a particle of sand or grit
remains on them; wrap each truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hot
oven for quite an hour; take off the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve
them in a hot napkin.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

[Illustration: TRUFFLES.]

    THE COMMON TRUFFLE.--This is the _Tuber cibarium_ of science,
    and belongs to that numerous class of esculent fungi
    distinguished from other vegetables not only by the singularity
    of their forms, but by their chemical composition. Upon
    analysis, they are found not only to contain the usual
    components of the vegetable kingdom, such as carbon, oxygen, and
    hydrogen, but likewise a large proportion of nitrogen; from
    which they approach more nearly to the nature of animal flesh.
    It was long ago observed by Dr. Darwin, that all the mushrooms
    cooked at our tables, as well as those used for ketchup,
    possessed an animal flavour; and soup enriched by mushrooms only
    has sometimes been supposed to contain meat.

TO DRESS TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE.

1162. INGREDIENTS.--12 fine black truffles, a few slices of fat bacon, 1
carrot, 1 turnip, 2 onions, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley,
1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 glasses of champagne,
1/2 pint of stock.

_Mode_.--Carefully select the truffles, reject those that have a musty
smell, and wash them well with a brush, in cold water only, until
perfectly clean. Put the bacon into a stewpan, with the truffles and the
remaining ingredients; simmer these gently for an hour, and let the
whole cool in the stewpan. When to be served, rewarm them, and drain
them on a clean cloth; then arrange them on a delicately white napkin,
that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the truffles, and
serve. The trimmings of truffles are used to flavour gravies, stock,
sauces, &c.; and are an excellent addition to ragouts, made dishes of
fowl, &c.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

    THE TRUFFLE.--The Truffle belongs to the family of the Mushroom.
    It is certain that the truffle must possess, equally with other
    plants, organs of reproduction; yet, notwithstanding all the
    efforts of art and science, it has been impossible to subject it
    to a regular culture. Truffles grow at a considerable depth
    under the earth, never appearing on the surface. They are found
    in many parts of France: those of Périgord Magny are the most
    esteemed for their odour. There are three varieties of the
    species,--the black, the red, and the white: the latter are of
    little value. The red are very rare, and their use is
    restricted. The black has the highest repute, and its
    consumption is enormous. When the peasantry go to gather
    truffles, they take a pig with them to scent out the spot where
    they grow. When that is found, the pig turns up the surface with
    his snout, and the men then dig until they find the truffles.
    Good truffles are easily distinguished by their agreeable
    perfume; they should be light in proportion to their size, and
    elastic when pressed by the finger. To have them in perfection,
    they should be quite fresh, as their aroma is considerably
    diminished by any conserving process. Truffles are stimulating
    and beating. Weak stomachs digest them with difficulty. Some of
    the culinary uses to which they are subjected render them more
    digestible; but they should always be eaten sparingly. Their
    chief use is in seasoning and garnitures. In short, a professor
    has said, "Meats with truffles are the most distinguished dishes
    that opulence can offer to the epicure." The Truffle grows in
    clusters, some inches below the surface of the soil, and is of
    an irregular globular form. Those which grow wild in England are
    about the size of a hen's egg, and have no roots. As there is
    nothing to indicate the places where they are, dogs have been
    trained to discriminate their scent, by which they are
    discovered. Hogs are very fond of them, and frequently lead to
    their being found, from their rutting up the ground in search of
    them.

ITALIAN MODE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES.

1163. INGREDIENTS.--10 truffles, 1/4 pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt
to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little finely-minced
garlic, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into thin
slices, and put them in a baking-dish, on a seasoning of oil, pepper,
salt, parsley, garlic, and mace in the above proportion. Bake them for
nearly an hour, and, just before serving, add the lemon-juice, and send
them to table very hot.

_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour.

_Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

    WHERE TRUFFLES ARE FOUND.--In this country, the common truffle
    is found on the downs of Hampshire, Wiltshire, and Kent; and
    they abound in dry light soils, and more especially in oak and
    chestnut forests. In France they are plentiful, and many are
    imported from the south of that country and Italy, where they
    are much larger and in greater perfection: they lose, however,
    much of their flavour by drying. Truffles have in England been
    tried to be propagated artificially, but without success.

TRUFFLES A L'ITALIENNE.

1164. INGREDIENTS.--10 truffles, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1
minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of good brown gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne to
taste.

_Mode_.--Wash the truffles and cut them into slices about the size of a
penny-piece; put them into a sauté pan, with the parsley, shalot, salt,
pepper, and 1 oz. of butter; stir them over the fire, that they may all
be equally done, which will be in about 10 minutes, and drain off some
of the butter; then add a little more fresh butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of
good gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, and a little cayenne; stir over the
fire until the whole is on the point of boiling, when serve.

_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes.

_Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

    USES OF THE TRUFFLE.--Like the Morel, truffles are seldom eaten
    alone, but are much used in gravies, soups, and ragoûts. They
    are likewise dried for the winter months, and, when reduced to
    powder, form a useful culinary ingredient; they, however, have
    many virtues attributed to them which they do not possess. Their
    wholesomeness is, perhaps, questionable, and they should be
    eaten with moderation.

BOILED TURNIPS.

1165. INGREDIENTS.--Turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Pare the turnips, and, should they be very large, divide them
into quarters; but, unless this is the case, let them be cooked whole.
Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Try them with a fork,
and, when done, take them up in a colander; let them thoroughly drain,
and serve. Boiled turnips are usually sent to table with boiled mutton,
but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served whole: unless nice and
young, they are scarcely worth the trouble of dressing plainly as above.

_Time_.--Old turnips, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hour; young ones, about 18 to 20
minutes.

_Average cost_, 4d. per bunch.

_Sufficient_.--Allow a bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year; but in spring only useful for
flavouring gravies, &c.

[Illustration: TURNIPS.]

    THE TURNIP.--This vegetable is the _Brassica Rapa_ of science,
    and grows wild in England, but cannot be brought exactly to
    resemble what it becomes in a cultivated state. It is said to
    have been originally introduced from Hanover, and forms an
    excellent culinary vegetable, much used all over Europe, where
    it is either eaten alone or mashed and cooked in soups and
    stews. They do not thrive in a hot climate; for in India they,
    and many more of our garden vegetables, lose their flavour and
    become comparatively tasteless. The Swede is the largest
    variety, but it is too coarse for the table.

MASHED TURNIPS.

1166. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 large turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water
allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 oz. of butter, cayenne or white
pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Pare the turnips, quarter them, and put them into boiling
water, salted in the above proportion; boil them until tender; then
drain them in a colander, and squeeze them as dry as possible by
pressing them with the back of a large plate. When quite free from
water, rub the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander, and put
them into a very clean saucepan; add the butter, white pepper, or
cayenne, and, if necessary, a little salt. Keep stirring them over the
fire until the butter is well mixed with them, and the turnips are
thoroughly hot; dish, and serve. A little cream or milk added after the
turnips are pressed through the colander, is an improvement to both the
colour and flavour of this vegetable.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the turnips; 10 minutes to warm
them through.

_Average cost_, 4d. per bunch.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year; but in spring only good for
flavouring gravies.

    VEGETABLES REDUCED TO PURÉE.--Persons in the flower of youth,
    having healthy stomachs, and leading active lives, may eat all
    sorts of vegetables, without inconvenience, save, of course, in
    excess. The digestive functions possess great energy during the
    period of youth: the body, to develop itself, needs nourishment.
    Physical exercise gives an appetite, which it is necessary to
    satisfy, and vegetables cannot resist the vigorous action of the
    gastric organs. As old proverb says, "At twenty one can digest
    iron." But for aged persons, the sedentary, or the delicate, it
    is quite otherwise. Then the gastric power has considerably
    diminished, the digestive organs have lost their energy, the
    process of digestion is consequently slower, and the least
    excess at table is followed by derangement of the stomach for
    several days. Those who generally digest vegetables with
    difficulty, should eat them reduced to a pulp or purée, that is
    to say, with their skins and tough fibres removed. Subjected to
    this process, vegetables which, when entire, would create
    flatulence and wind, are then comparatively harmless. Experience
    has established the rule, that nourishment is not complete
    without the alliance of meat with vegetables. We would also add,
    that the regime most favourable to health is found in variety:
    variety pleases the senses, monotony is disagreeable. The eye is
    fatigued by looking always on one object, the ear by listening
    to one sound, and the palate by tasting one flavour. It is the
    same with the stomach: consequently, variety of food is one of
    the essentials for securing good digestion.

GERMAN MODE OF COOKING TURNIPS.

1167. INGREDIENTS.--8 large turnips, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to
taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 tablespoonful
of flour.

_Mode_.--Make the butter hot in a stewpan, lay in the turnips, after
having pared and cut them into dice, and season them with pepper and
salt. Toss them over the fire for a few minutes, then add the broth, and
simmer the whole gently till the turnips are tender. Brown the above
proportion of flour with a little butter; add this to the turnips, let
them simmer another 5 minutes, and serve. Boiled mutton is usually sent
to table with this vegetable, and may be cooked with the turnips by
placing it in the midst of them: the meat would then be very delicious,
as, there being so little liquid with the turnips, it would almost be
steamed, and consequently very tender.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per bunch.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year.

    TURNIPS.--Good turnips are delicate in texture, firm, and sweet.
    The best sorts contain a sweet juicy mucilage, uniting with the
    aroma a slightly acid quality, which is completely neutralized
    in cooking. The turnip is prepared in a variety of ways. Ducks
    stuffed with turnips have been highly appreciated. It is useful
    in the regimen of persons afflicted with chronic visceral
    irritations. The turnip only creates flatulency when it is soft,
    porous, and stringy. It is then, consequently, bad.

TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE.

(An Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.)

1168. INGREDIENTS.--7 or 8 turnips, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of white
sauce, No. 538 or 539.

_Mode_.--Peel and cut the turnips in the shape of pears or marbles; boil
them in salt and water, to which has been added a little butter, until
tender; then take them out, drain, arrange them on a dish, and pour over
the white sauce made by recipe No. 538 or 539, and to which has been
added a small lump of sugar. In winter, when other vegetables are
scarce, this will be found a very good and pretty-looking dish: when
approved, a little mustard may be added to the sauce.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to boil the turnips.

_Average cost_, 4d. per bunch.

_Sufficient_ for 1 side-dish. _Seasonable_ in winter.

    THE FRENCH NAVET.--This is a variety of the turnip; but, instead
    of being globular, has more the shape of the carrot. Its flavour
    being excellent, it is much esteemed on the Continent for soups
    and made dishes. Two or three of them will impart as much
    flavour as a dozen of the common turnips will. Accordingly, when
    stewed in gravy, they are greatly relished. This flavour resides
    in the rind, which is not cut off, but scraped. This variety was
    once grown in England, but now it is rarely found in our
    gardens, though highly deserving of a place there. It is of a
    yellowish-white colour, and is sometimes imported to the London
    market.

BOILED TURNIP GREENS.

1169. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; turnip-greens.

_Mode_.--Wash the greens well in two or three waters, and pick off all
the decayed and dead leaves; tie them in small bunches, and put them
into plenty of boiling water, salted in the above proportion. Keep them
boiling quickly, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and when
tender, pour them into a colander; let them drain, arrange them in a
vegetable-dish, remove the string that the greens were tied with, and
serve.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. for a dish for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ in March, April, and May.

    CABBAGE, TURNIP-TOPS, AND GREENS.--All the cabbage tribe, which
    comprises coleworts, brocoli, cauliflower, sprouts, and
    turnip-tops, in order to be delicate, should be dressed young,
    when they have a rapid growth; but, if they have stood the
    summer, in order to be tender, they should be allowed to have a
    touch of frost. The cabbage contains much vegetable albumen, and
    several parts sulphur and nitrate of potass. Cabbage is heavy,
    and a long time digesting, which has led to a belief that it is
    very nourishing. It is only fit food for robust and active
    persons; the sedentary or delicate should carefully avoid it.
    Cabbage may be prepared in a variety of ways: it serves as a
    garniture to several recherché dishes,--partridge and cabbage
    for example. Bacon and cabbage is a very favourite dish; but
    only a good stomach can digest it.

BOILED VEGETABLE MARROW.

1170. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; vegetable marrows.

[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW ON TOAST.]

_Mode_.--Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion; put in the marrows after peeling them, and boil them until
quite tender. Take them up with a slice, halve, and, should they be very
large, quarter them. Dish them on toast, and send to table with them a
tureen of melted butter, or, in lieu of this, a small pat of salt
butter. Large vegetable marrows may be preserved throughout the winter
by storing them in a dry place; when wanted for use, a few slices should
be cut and boiled in the same manner as above; but, when once begun, the
marrow must be eaten quickly, as it keeps but a short time after it is
cut. Vegetable marrows are also very delicious mashed: they should be
boiled, then drained, and mashed smoothly with a wooden spoon. Heat them
in a saucepan, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and a small piece of
butter, and dish with a few sippets of toasted bread placed round as a
garnish.

_Time_.--Young vegetable marrows 10 to 20 minutes; old ones, 1/2 to 3/4
hour.

_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. per dozen.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 moderate-sized marrow for each person.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be preserved all
the winter.


FRIED VEGETABLE MARROW.

1171. INGREDIENTS.--3 medium-sized vegetable marrows, egg and bread
crumbs, hot lard.

_Mode_.--Peel, and boil the marrows until tender in salt and water; then
drain them and cut them in quarters, and take out the seeds. When
thoroughly drained, brush the marrows over with egg, and sprinkle with
bread crumbs; have ready some hot lard, fry the marrow in this, and,
when of a nice brown, dish; sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, and
serve.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to boil the marrow, 7 minutes to fry it.

_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. per dozen.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September.

[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW.]

    THE VEGETABLE MARROW.--This vegetable is now extensively used,
    and belongs to the Cucurbits. It is the _C. ovifera_ of science,
    and, like the melon, gourd, cucumber, and squash, is widely
    diffused in the tropical or warmer regions of the globe. Of the
    nature of this family we have already spoken when treating of
    the cucumber.

CUT VEGETABLES FOR SOUPS, &c.

[Illustration: VEGETABLE-CUTTER.]

1172. The annexed engraving represents a cutter for shaping vegetables
for soups, ragouts, stews, &c.; carrots and turnips being the usual
vegetables for which this utensil is used. Cut the vegetables into
slices about 1/4 inch in thickness, stamp them out with the cutter, and
boil them for a few minutes in salt and water, until tender. Turnips
should be cut in rather thicker slices than carrots, on account of the
former boiling more quickly to a pulp than the latter.

    CARROTS.--Several species of carrots are cultivated,--the red,
    the yellow, and the which. Those known as the Crecy carrots are
    considered the best, and are very sweet. The carrot has been
    classed by hygienists among flatulent vegetables, and as
    difficult of digestion. When the root becomes old, it is almost
    as hard as wood; but the young carrot, which has not reached its
    full growth, is tender, relishing, nutritious, and digests well
    when properly cooked.

VEGETABLE MARROWS IN WHITE SAUCE.

1173. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 moderate-sized marrows, 1/2 pint of white
sauce, No. 539.

[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW IN WHITE SAUCE.]

_Mode_.--Pare the marrows; cut them in halves, and shape each half at
the top in a point, leaving the bottom end flat for it to stand upright
in the dish. Boil the marrows in salt and water until tender; take them
up very carefully, and arrange them on a hot dish. Have ready 1/2 pint
of white sauce, made by recipe No. 539; pour this over the marrows, and
serve.

_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes to boil the marrows.

_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. per dozen.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September.


BOILED INDIAN WHEAT or MAIZE.

1174. INGREDIENTS.--The ears of young and green Indian wheat; to every
1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--This vegetable, which makes one of the most delicious dishes
brought to table, is unfortunately very rarely seen in Britain; and we
wonder that, in the gardens of the wealthy, it is not invariably
cultivated. Our sun, it is true, possesses hardly power sufficient to
ripen maize; but, with well-prepared ground, and in a favourable
position, it might be sufficiently advanced by the beginning of autumn
to serve as a vegetable. The outside sheath being taken off and the
waving fibres removed, let the ears be placed in boiling water, where
they should remain for about 25 minutes (a longer time may be necessary
for larger ears than ordinary); and, when sufficiently boiled and well
drained, they may be sent to table whole, and with a piece of toast
underneath them. Melted butter should be served with them.

_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_.--Seldom bought.

_Sufficient_,--1 ear for each person. _Seasonable_ in autumn.

_Note_.--William Cobbett, the English radical writer and politician, was
a great cultivator and admirer of maize, and constantly ate it as a
vegetable, boiled. We believe he printed a special recipe for it, but we
have been unable to lay our hands on it. Mr. Buchanan, the present
president of the United States, was in the habit, when ambassador here,
of receiving a supply of Indian corn from America in hermetically-sealed
cases; and the publisher of this work remembers, with considerable
satisfaction, his introduction to a dish of this vegetable, when in
America. He found it to combine the excellences of the young green pea
and the finest asparagus; but he felt at first slightly awkward in
holding the large ear with one hand, whilst the other had to be employed
in cutting off with a knife the delicate green grains.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXVI.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

1175. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY, familiar as they may be, and unimportant as
they may be held in the estimation of some, are yet intimately connected
with the development of agricultural resources in reference to the
cereal grasses. When they began to be made is uncertain; but we may
safely presume, that a simple form of pudding was amongst the first
dishes made after discovering a mode of grinding wheat into flour.
Traditional history enables us to trace man back to the time of the
Deluge. After that event he seems to have recovered himself in the
central parts of Asia, and to have first risen to eminence in the arts
of civilization on the banks of the Nile. From this region, Greece,
Carthage, and some other parts along the shores of the Mediterranean
Sea, were colonized. In process of time, Greece gave to the Romans the
arts which she had thus received from Egypt, and these subsequently
diffused them over Europe. How these were carried to or developed in
India and China, is not so well ascertained; and in America their
ancient existence rests only on very indistinct traditions. As to who
was the real discoverer of the use of corn, we have no authentic
knowledge. The traditions of different countries ascribe it to various
fabulous personages, whose names it is here unnecessary to introduce. In
Egypt, however, corn must have grown abundantly; for Abraham, and after
him Jacob, had recourse to that country for supplies during times of
famine.

1176. THE HABITS OF A PEOPLE, to a great extent, are formed by the
climate in which they live, and by the native or cultivated productions
in which their country abounds. Thus we find that the agricultural
produce of the ancient Egyptians is pretty much the same as that of the
present day, and the habits of the people are not materially altered. In
Greece, the products cultivated in antiquity were the same kinds of
grains and legumes as are cultivated at present, with the vine, the fig,
the olive, the apple, and other fruits. So with the Romans, and so with
other nations. As to the different modes of artificially preparing those
to please the taste, it is only necessary to say that they arise from
the universal desire of novelty, characteristic of man in the
development of his social conditions. Thus has arisen the whole science
of cookery, and thus arose the art of making puddings. The porridge of
the Scotch is nothing more than a species of hasty pudding, composed of
oatmeal, salt, and water; and the "red pottage" for which Esau sold his
birthright, must have been something similar. The barley-gruel of the
Lacedaemonians, of the Athenian gladiators and common people, was the
same, with the exception of the slight seasoning it had beyond the
simplicity of Scottish fare. Here is the ancient recipe for the Athenian
national dish:--"Dry near the fire, in the oven, twenty pounds of
barley-flour; then parch it; add three pounds of linseed-meal, half a
pound of coriander-seed, two ounces of salt, and the quantity of water
necessary." To this sometimes a little millet was added, in order to
give the paste greater cohesion and delicacy.

1177. OATMEAL AMONGST THE GREEKS AND ROMANS was highly esteemed, as was
also rice, which they considered as beneficial to the chest. They also
held in high repute the Irion, or Indian wheat of the moderns. The flour
of this cereal was made into a kind of hasty pudding, and, parched or
roasted, as eaten with a little salt. The Spelt, or Red wheat, was
likewise esteemed, and its flour formed the basis of the Carthaginian
pudding, for which we here give the scientific recipe:--"Put a pound of
red-wheat flour into water, and when it has steeped some time, transfer
it to a wooden bowl. Add three pounds of cream cheese, half a pound of
honey, and one egg. Beat the whole together, and cook it on a slow fire
in a stewpan." Should this be considered unpalatable, another form has
been recommended. "Sift the flour, and, with some water, put it into a
wooden vessel, and, for ten days, renew the water twice each day. At the
end of that period, press out the water and place the paste in another
vessel. It is now to be reduced to the consistence of thick lees, and
passed through a piece of new linen. Repeat this last operation, then
dry the mass in the sun and boil it in milk. Season according to taste."
These are specimens of the puddings of antiquity, and this last recipe
was held in especial favour by the Romans.

1178. HOWEVER GREAT MAY HAVE BEEN THE QUALIFICATIONS of the ancients,
however, in the art of pudding-making, we apprehend that such
preparations as gave gratification to their palates, would have
generally found little favour amongst the insulated inhabitants of Great
Britain. Here, from the simple suet dumpling up to the most complicated
Christmas production, the grand feature of substantiality is primarily
attended to. Variety in the ingredients, we think, is held only of
secondary consideration with the great body of the people, provided that
the whole is agreeable and of sufficient abundance.

1179. ALTHOUGH FROM PUDDINGS TO PASTRY is but a step, it requires a
higher degree of art to make the one than to make the other. Indeed,
pastry is one of the most important branches of the culinary science. It
unceasingly occupies itself with ministering pleasure to the sight as
well as to the taste; with erecting graceful monuments, miniature
fortresses, and all kinds of architectural imitations, composed of the
sweetest and most agreeable products of all climates and countries. At a
very early period, the Orientals were acquainted with the art of
manipulating in pastry; but they by no means attained to the taste,
variety, and splendour of design, by which it is characterized amongst
the moderns. At first it generally consisted of certain mixtures of
flour, oil, and honey, to which it was confined for centuries, even
among the southern nations of the European continent. At the
commencement of the middle ages, a change began to take place in the art
of mixing it. Eggs, butter, and salt came into repute in the making of
paste, which was forthwith used as an inclosure for meat, seasoned with
spices. This advance attained, the next step was to inclose cream,
fruit, and marmalades; and the next, to build pyramids and castles; when
the summit of the art of the pastry-cook may be supposed to have been
achieved.


DIRECTIONS IN CONNECTION WITH THE MAKING OF PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

1180. A few general remarks respecting the various ingredients of which
puddings and pastry are composed, may be acceptable as preliminary to
the recipes in this department of Household Management.

1181. _Flour_ should be of the best quality, and perfectly dry, and
sifted before being used; if in the least damp, the paste made from it
will certainly be heavy.

1182. _Butter_, unless fresh is used, should be washed from the salt,
and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth, to get out all the water and
buttermilk, which, if left in, assists to make the paste heavy.

1183. _Lard_ should be perfectly sweet, which may be ascertained by
cutting the bladder through, and, if the knife smells sweet, the lard is
good.

1184. _Suet_ should be finely chopped, perfectly free from skin, and
quite sweet; during the process of chopping, it should be lightly
dredged with flour, which prevents the pieces from sticking together.
Beef suet is considered the best; but veal suet, or the outside fat of a
loin or neck of mutton, makes good crusts; as also the skimmings in
which a joint of mutton has been boiled, but _without_ vegetables.

1185. _Clarified Beef Dripping_, directions for which will be found in
recipes Nos. 621 and 622, answers very well for kitchen pies, puddings,
cakes, or for family use. A very good short crust may be made by mixing
with it a small quantity of moist sugar; but care must be taken to use
the dripping sparingly, or a very disagreeable flavour will be imparted
to the paste.

1186. Strict cleanliness must be observed in pastry-making; all the
utensils used should be perfectly free from dust and dirt, and the
things required for pastry, kept entirely for that purpose.

[Illustration: PASTE-BOARD AND ROLLING-PIN.]

1187. In mixing paste, add the water very gradually, work the whole
together with the knife-blade, and knead it until perfectly smooth.
Those who are inexperienced in pastry-making, should work the butter in
by breaking it in small pieces and covering the paste rolled out. It
should then be dredged with flour, and the ends folded over and rolled
out very thin again: this process must be repeated until all the butter
is used.

[Illustration: PASTE-PINCERS AND JAGGER, FOR ORNAMENTING THE EDGES OF
PIE-CRUSTS.]

1188. The art of making paste requires much practice, dexterity, and
skill: it should be touched as lightly as possible, made with cool hands
and in a cool place (a marble slab is better than a board for the
purpose), and the coolest part of the house should be selected for the
process during warm weather.

1189. To insure rich paste being light, great expedition must be used in
the making and baking; for if it stand long before it is put in the
oven, it becomes flat and heavy.

[Illustration: PASTE-CUTTER AND CORNER-CUTTER.]

[Illustration: ORNAMENTAL-PASTE CUTTER.]

1190. _Puff-paste_ requires a brisk oven, but not too hot, or it would
blacken the crust; on the other hand, if the oven be too slack, the
paste will be soddened, and will not rise, nor will it have any colour.
Tart-tins, cake-moulds, dishes for baked puddings, pattypans, &c.,
should all be buttered before the article intended to be baked is put in
them: things to be baked on sheets should be placed on buttered paper.
Raised-pie paste should have a soaking heat, and paste glazed must have
rather a slack oven, that the icing be not scorched. It is better to ice
tarts, &c. when they are three-parts baked.

[Illustration: PATTY-PANS, PLAIN AND FLUTED.]

[Illustration: PIE-DISH.]

[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOULD.]

[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOULD, OPEN.]

1191. To ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper degree for
puff-paste, put a small piece of the paste in previous to baking the
whole, and then the heat can thus be judged of.

1192. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, as
one bad article will taint the whole mixture.

1193. When the _freshness_ of eggs is _doubtful_, break each one
separately in a cup, before mixing them altogether. Should there be a
bad one amongst them, it can be thrown away; whereas, if mixed with the
good ones, the entire quantity would be spoiled. The yolks and whites
beaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter.

1194. Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked,
and, in many cases, stoned. Currants should be well washed, pressed in a
cloth, and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; they
should then be picked carefully over, and _every piece of grit or stone_
removed from amongst them. To plump them, some cooks pour boiling water
over them, and then dry them before the fire.

1195. Batter pudding should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. To
insure this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk,
and add the remainder by degrees. Should the pudding be very lumpy, it
may be strained through a hair sieve.

1196. _All boiled puddings_ should be put on in _boiling water_, which
must not be allowed to stop simmering, and the pudding must always be
covered with the water; if requisite, the saucepan should be kept filled
up.

[Illustration: BOILED-PUDDING MOULD.]

1197. To prevent a pudding boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottom
of the saucepan, place a small plate or saucer underneath it, and set
the pan _on a trivet_ over the fire. If a mould is used, this precaution
is not necessary; but care must be taken to keep the pudding well
covered with water.

1198. For dishing a boiled pudding as soon as it comes out of the pot,
dip it into a basin of cold water, and the cloth will then not adhere to
it. Great expedition is necessary in sending puddings to table, as, by
standing, they quickly become heavy, batter puddings particularly.

[Illustration: BOILED-PUDDING MOULD.]

1199. For baked or boiled puddings, the moulds, cups, or basins, should
be always buttered before the mixture is put in them, and they should be
put into the saucepan directly they are filled.

1200. Scrupulous attention should be paid to the cleanliness of
pudding-cloths, as, from neglect in this particular, the outsides of
boiled puddings frequently taste very disagreeably. As soon as possible
after it is taken off the pudding, it should be soaked in water, and
then well washed, without soap, unless it be very greasy. It should be
dried out of doors, then folded up and kept in a dry place. When wanted
for use, dip it in boiling water, and dredge it slightly with flour.

[Illustration: PUDDING-BASIN.]

1201. The _dry ingredients_ for puddings are better for being mixed some
time before they are wanted; the liquid portion should only be added
just before the pudding is put into the saucepan.

1202. A pinch of salt is an improvement to the generality of puddings;
but this ingredient should be added very sparingly, as the flavour
should not be detected.

1203. When baked puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of the
dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them fine
sifted sugar.

1204. When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and yet the
outside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white
paper until thoroughly cooked: this prevents them from getting burnt.

[Illustration]




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXVII.


VERY GOOD PUFF-PASTE.

1205. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1 lb. of butter, and not
quite 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Carefully weigh the flour and butter, and have the exact
proportion; squeeze the butter well, to extract the water from it, and
afterwards wring it in a clean cloth, that no moisture may remain. Sift
the flour; see that it is perfectly dry, and proceed in the following
manner to make the paste, using a very _clean_ paste-board and
rolling-pin:--Supposing the quantity to be 1 lb. of flour, work the
whole into a smooth paste, with not quite 1/2 pint of water, using a
knife to mix it with: the proportion of this latter ingredient must be
regulated by the discretion of the cook; if too much be added, the
paste, when baked, will be tough. Roll it out until it is of an equal
thickness of about an inch; break 4 oz. of the butter into small pieces;
place these on the paste, sift over it a little flour, fold it over,
roll out again, and put another 4 oz. of butter. Repeat the rolling and
buttering until the paste has been rolled out 4 times, or equal
quantities of flour and butter have been used. Do not omit, every time
the paste is rolled out, to dredge a little flour over that and the
rolling-pin, to prevent both from sticking. Handle the paste as lightly
as possible, and do not press heavily upon it with the rolling-pin. The
next thing to be considered is the oven, as the baking of pastry
requires particular attention. Do not put it into the oven until it is
sufficiently hot to raise the paste; for the best-prepared paste, if not
properly baked, will be good for nothing. Brushing the paste as often as
rolled out, and the pieces of butter placed thereon, with the white of
an egg, assists it to rise in _leaves_ or _flakes_. As this is the great
beauty of puff-paste, it is as well to try this method.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. per lb.

    BUTTER.--About the second century of the Christian era, butter
    was placed by Galen amongst the useful medical agents; and about
    a century before him, Dioscorides mentioned that he had noticed
    that fresh butter, made of ewes' and goats' milk, was served at
    meals instead of oil, and that it took the place of fat in
    making pastry. Thus we have undoubted authority that, eighteen
    hundred years ago, there existed a knowledge of the useful
    qualities of butter. The Romans seem to have set about making it
    much as we do; for Pliny tells us, "Butter is made from milk;
    and the use of this element, so much sought after by barbarous
    nations, distinguished the rich from the common people. It is
    obtained principally from cows' milk; that from ewes is the
    fattest; goats also supply some. It is produced by agitating the
    milk in long vessels with narrow openings: a little water is
    added."

MEDIUM PUFF-PASTE.

1206. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 8 oz. of butter, 4 oz.
of lard, not quite 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--This paste may be made by the directions in the preceding
recipe, only using less butter and substituting lard for a portion of
it. Mix the flour to a smooth paste with not quite 1/2 pint of water;
then roll it out 3 times, the first time covering the paste with butter,
the second with lard, and the third with butter. Keep the rolling-pin
and paste slightly dredged with flour, to prevent them from sticking,
and it will be ready for use.

_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

    BUTTER IN HASTE.--In his "History of Food," Soyer says that to
    obtain butter instantly, it is only necessary, in summer, to put
    new milk into a bottle, some hours after it has been taken from
    the cow, and shake it briskly. The clots which are thus formed
    should be thrown into a sieve, washed and pressed together, and
    they constitute the finest and most delicate butter that can
    possibly be made.

COMMON PASTE, for Family Pies.

1207. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, rather more
than 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter lightly into the flour, and mix it to a smooth
paste with the water; roll it out 2 or 3 times, and it will be ready for
use. This paste may be converted into an excellent short crust for sweet
tart, by adding to the flour, after the butter is rubbed in, 2
tablespoonfuls of fine-sifted sugar.

_Average cost_, 8d. per lb.

    TO KEEP BUTTER FRESH.--One of the best means to preserve butter
    fresh is, first to completely press out all the buttermilk, then
    to keep it under water, renewing the water frequently, and to
    remove it from the influence of heat and air, by wrapping it in
    a wet cloth.

FRENCH PUFF-PASTE, or FEUILLETAGE.

(Founded on M. Ude's Recipe.)

1208. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of flour and butter--say 1 lb. of
each; 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, rather more than
1/4 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Weigh the flour; ascertain that it is perfectly _dry_, and sift
it; squeeze all the water from the butter, and wring it in a clean cloth
till there is no moisture remaining. Put the flour on the paste-board,
work lightly into it 2 oz. of the butter, and then make a hole in the
centre; into this well put the yolks of 2 eggs, the salt, and about 1/4
pint of water (the quantity of this latter ingredient must be regulated
by the cook, as it is impossible to give the exact proportion of it);
knead up the paste quickly and lightly, and, when quite smooth, roll it
out square to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Presuming that the butter
is perfectly free from moisture, and _as cool_ as possible, roll it into
a ball, and place this ball of butter on the paste; fold the paste over
the butter all round, and secure it by wrapping it well all over.
Flatten the paste by rolling it lightly with the rolling-pin until it is
quite thin, but not thin enough to allow the butter to break through,
and keep the board and paste dredged lightly with flour during the
process of making it. This rolling gives it the _first_ turn. Now fold
the paste in three, and roll out again, and, should the weather be very
warm, put it in a cold place on the ground to cool between the several
turns; for, unless this is particularly attended to, the paste will be
spoiled. Roll out the paste again _twice_, put it by to cool, then roll
it out _twice_ more, which will make 6 _turnings_ in all. Now fold the
paste in two, and it will be ready for use. If properly baked and well
made, this crust will be delicious, and should rise in the oven about 5
or 6 inches. The paste should be made rather firm in the first instance,
as the ball of butter is liable to break through. Great attention must
also be paid to keeping the butter very cool, as, if this is in a liquid
and soft state, the paste will not answer at all. Should the cook be
dexterous enough to succeed in making this, the paste will have a much
better appearance than that made by the process of dividing the butter
into 4 parts, and placing it over the rolled-out paste; but, until
experience has been acquired, we recommend puff-paste made by recipe No.
1205. The above paste is used for vols-au-vent, small articles of
pastry, and, in fact, everything that requires very light crust.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per lb.

    WHAT TO DO WITH RANCID BUTTER.--When butter has become very
    rancid, it should be melted several times by a moderate heat,
    with or without the addition of water, and as soon as it has
    been well kneaded, after the cooling, in order to extract any
    water it may have retained, it should be put into brown
    freestone pots, sheltered from the contact of the air. The
    French often add to it, after it has been melted, a piece of
    toasted bread, which helps to destroy the tendency of the batter
    to rancidity.

SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PUFF-PASTE.

1209. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow the yolk of 1 egg, the
juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, cold water, 1 lb. of fresh
butter.

_Mode_.--Put the flour on to the paste-board; make a hole in the centre,
into which put the yolk of the egg, the lemon-juice, and salt; mix the
whole with cold water (this should be iced in summer, if convenient)
into a soft flexible paste, with the right hand, and handle it as little
as possible; then squeeze all the buttermilk from the butter, wring it
in a cloth, and roll out the paste; place the butter on this, and fold
the edges of the paste over, so as to hide it; roll it out again to the
thickness of 1/4 inch; fold over one third, over which again pass the
rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square;
place it with the ends, top, and bottom before you, shaking a little
flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again,
as before. Flour a baking-sheet, put the paste on this, and let it
remain on ice or in some cool place for 1/2 hour; then roll twice more,
turning it as before; place it again upon the ice for 1/4 hour, give it
2 more rolls, making 7 in all, and it is ready for use when required.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per lb.


VERY GOOD SHORT CRUST FOR FRUIT TARTS.

1210. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 3/4 lb. of butter, 1
tablespoonful of sifted sugar, 1/3 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour, after having ascertained that
the latter is perfectly dry; add the sugar, and mix the whole into a
stiff paste, with about 1/3 pint of water. Roll it out two or three
times, folding the paste over each time, and it will be ready for use.

_Average cost_, 1s. 1d. per lb.

ANOTHER GOOD SHORT CRUST.

1211. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 8 oz. of butter, the
yolks of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, about 1/4 pint of milk.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, and mix the whole
as lightly as possible to a smooth paste, with the yolks of eggs well
beaten, and the milk. The proportion of the latter ingredient must be
judged of by the size of the eggs: if these are large, so much will not
be required, and more if the eggs are smaller.

_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

    SUGAR AND BEETROOT.--There are two sorts of Beet,--white and
    red; occasionally, in the south, a yellow variety is met with.
    Beetroot contains twenty parts sugar. Everybody knows that the
    beet has competed with the sugar-cane, and a great part of the
    French sugar is manufactured from beet. Beetroot has a
    refreshing, composing, and slightly purgative quality. The young
    leaves, when cooked, are a substitute for spinach; they are also
    useful for mixing with sorrel, to lessen its acidity. The large
    ribs of the leaves are serviceable in various culinary
    preparations; the root also may be prepared in several ways, but
    its most general use is in salad. Some writers upon the subject
    have expressed their opinion that beetroot is easily digested,
    but those who have taken pains to carefully analyze its
    qualities make quite a contrary statement. Youth, of course, can
    digest it; but to persons of a certain age beet is very
    indigestible, or rather, it does not digest at all. It is not
    the sugary pulp which is indigestible, but its fibrous network
    that resists the action of the gastric organs. Thus, when the
    root is reduced to a puree, almost any person may eat it.

    FRENCH SUGAR.--It had long been thought that tropical heat was
    not necessary to form sugar, and, about 1740, it was discovered
    that many plants of the temperate zone, and amongst others the
    beet, contained it. Towards the beginning of the 19th century,
    circumstances having, in France, made sugar scarce, and
    consequently dear, the government caused inquiries to be
    instituted as to the possibility of finding a substitute for it.
    Accordingly, it was ascertained that sugar exists in the whole
    vegetable kingdom; that it is to be found in the grape,
    chestnut, potato; but that, far above all, the beet contains it
    in a large proportion. Thus the beet became an object of the
    most careful culture; and many experiments went to prove that in
    this respect the old world was independent of the new. Many
    manufactories came into existence in all parts of France, and
    the making of sugar became naturalized in that country.

COMMON SHORT CRUST.

1212. INGREDIENTS.--To every pound of flour allow 2 oz. of sifted sugar,
3 oz. of butter, about 1/2 pint of boiling milk.

_Mode_.--Crumble the butter into the flour as finely as possible, add
the sugar, and work the whole up to a smooth paste with the boiling
milk. Roll it out thin, and bake in a moderate oven.

_Average cost_, 6d. per lb.

    QUALITIES OF SUGAR.--Sugars obtained from various plants are in
    fact, of the same nature, and have no intrinsic difference when
    they have become equally purified by the same processes. Taste,
    crystallization, colour, weight, are absolutely identical; and
    the most accurate observer cannot distinguish the one from the
    other.

BUTTER CRUST, for Boiled Puddings.

1213. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. of butter, 1/2
pint of water.

_Mode_.--With a knife, work the flour to a smooth paste with 1/2 pint of
water; roll the crust out rather thin; place the butter over it in small
pieces; dredge lightly over it some flour, and fold the paste over;
repeat the rolling once more, and the crust will be ready for use. It
may be enriched by adding another 2 oz. of butter; but, for ordinary
purposes, the above quantity will be found quite sufficient.

_Average cost_, 6d. per lb.


DRIPPING CRUST, for Kitchen Puddings, Pies, &c.

1214. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. of clarified beef
dripping, 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--After having clarified the dripping, by either of the recipes
No. 621 or 622, weigh it, and to every lb. of flour allow the above
proportion of dripping. With a knife, work the flour into a smooth paste
with the water, rolling it out 3 times, each time placing on the crust 2
oz. of the dripping, broken into small pieces. If this paste is lightly
made, if good dripping is used, and _not too much_ of it, it will be
found good; and by the addition of two tablespoonfuls of fine moist
sugar, it may be converted into a common short crust for fruit pies.

_Average cost_, 4d. per pound.

    WATER:--WHAT THE ANCIENTS THOUGHT OF IT.--All the nations of
    antiquity possessed great veneration for water: thus, the
    Egyptians offered prayers and homage to water, and the Nile was
    an especial object of their adoration; the Persians would not
    wash their hands; the Scythians honoured the Danube; the Greeks
    and Romans erected altars to the fountains and rivers; and some
    of the architectural embellishments executed for fountains in
    Greece were remarkable for their beauty and delicacy. The purity
    of the water was a great object of the care of the ancients; and
    we learn that the Athenians appointed four officers to keep
    watch and ward over the water in their city. These men had to
    keep the fountains in order and clean the reservoirs, so that
    the water might be preserved pure and limpid. Like officers were
    appointed in other Greek cities.

SUET CRUST, for Pies or Puddings.

1215. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 5 or 6 oz. of beef suet,
1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Free the suet from skin and shreds; chop it extremely fine, and
rub it well into the flour; work the whole to a smooth paste with the
above proportion of water; roll it out, and it is ready for use. This
crust is quite rich enough for ordinary purposes, but when a better one
is desired, use from 1/2 to 3/4 lb. of suet to every lb. of flour. Some
cooks, for rich crusts, pound the suet in a mortar, with a small
quantity of butter. It should then be laid on the paste in small pieces,
the same as for puff-crust, and will be found exceedingly nice for hot
tarts. 5 oz. of suet to every lb. of flour will make a very good crust;
and even 1/4 lb. will answer very well for children, or where the crust
is wanted very plain.

_Average cost_, 5d. per lb.


PATE BRISEE, or FRENCH CRUST, for Raised Pies.

1216. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 saltspoonful of
salt, 2 eggs, 1/3 pint of water, 6 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Spread the flour, which should be sifted and thoroughly dry, on
the paste-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put the butter;
work it lightly into the flour, and when quite fine, add the salt; work
the whole into a smooth paste with the eggs (yolks and whites) and
water, and make it very firm. Knead the paste well, and let it be rather
stiff, that the sides of the pie may be easily raised, and that they do
not afterwards tumble or shrink.

_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Note_.--This paste may be very much enriched by making it with equal
quantities of flour and butter; but then it is not so easily raised as
when made plainer.

    WATER SUPPLY IN ROME.--Nothing in Italy is more extraordinary
    than the remains of the ancient aqueducts. At first, the Romans
    were contented with the water from the Tiber. Ancus Martius was
    the first to commence the building of aqueducts destined to
    convey the water of the fountain of Piconia from Tibur to Rome,
    a distance of some 33,000 paces. Appius Claudius continued the
    good work, and to him is due the completion of the celebrated
    Appian Way. In time, the gigantic waterways greatly multiplied,
    and, by the reign of Nero, there were constructed nine principal
    aqueducts, the pipes of which were of bricks, baked tiles,
    stone, lead, or wood. According to the calculation of Vigenerus,
    half a million hogsheads of water were conveyed into Rome every
    day, by upwards of 10,000 small pipes not one-third of an inch
    in diameter. The water was received in large closed basins,
    above which rose splendid monuments: these basins supplied other
    subterranean conduits, connected with various quarters of the
    city, and these conveyed water to small reservoirs furnished
    with taps for the exclusive use of certain streets. The water
    which was not drinkable ran out, by means of large pipes, into
    extensive inclosures, where it served to water cattle. At these
    places the people wished their linen; and here, too, was a
    supply of the necessary element in case of fire.

COMMON CRUST FOR RAISED PIES.

1217. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 pint of water, 1-1/2
oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of lard, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Put into a saucepan the water; when it boils, add the butter
and lard; and when these are melted, make a hole in the middle of the
flour; pour in the water gradually; beat it well with a wooden spoon,
and be particular in not making the paste too soft. When it is well
mixed, knead it with the hands until quite stiff, dredging a little
flour over the paste and board, to prevent them from sticking. When it
is well kneaded, place it before the fire, with a cloth covered over it,
for a few minutes; it will then be more easily worked into shape. This
paste does not taste so nicely as the preceding one, but is worked with
greater facility, and answers just as well for raised pies, for the
crust is seldom eaten.

_Average cost_, 5d, per lb.

LARD OR FLEAD CRUST.

1218. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 lb. of lard or
flead, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Clear the flead free from skin, and slice it into thin flakes;
rub it into the flour, add the salt, and work the whole into a smooth
paste, with the above proportion of water; fold the paste over two or
three times, beat it well with the rolling-pin, roll it out, and it will
be ready for use. The crust made from this will be found extremely
light, and may be made into cakes or tarts; it may also be very much
enriched by adding more flead to the same proportion of flour.

_Average cost_, 8d. per lb.

    NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES OF FLOUR.--The gluten of grain and the
    albumen of vegetable juices are identical in composition with
    the albumen of blood. Vegetable caseine has also the composition
    of animal caseine. The finest wheat flour contains more starch
    than the coarser; the bran of wheat is proportionably richer in
    gluten. Rye and rye-bread contain a substance resembling
    starch-gum (or dextrine, as it is called) in its properties,
    which is very easily converted into sugar. The starch of barley
    approaches in many properties to cellulose, and is, therefore,
    less digestible. Oats are particularly rich in plastic
    substances; Scotch oats are richer than those grown in England
    or in Germany. This kind of grain contains in its ashes, after
    deduction of the silica of the husks, very nearly the same
    ingredients as are found in the ashes of the juice of flesh.
    Fine American flour is one of the varieties which is richest in
    gluten, and is consequently one of the most nutritious.

ALMOND CHEESECAKES.

1219. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter ones, 3 eggs, 2
oz. of butter, the rind of 1/4 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3
oz. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds smoothly in a mortar, with a
little rose- or spring-water; stir in the eggs, which should be well
beaten, and the butter, which should be warmed; add the grated
lemon-peel and -juice, sweeten, and stir well until the whole is
thoroughly mixed. Line some pattypans with puff-paste, put in the
mixture, and bake for 20 minutes, or rather less in a quick oven.

_Time_.--20 minutes, or rather less.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for about 12 cheesecakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: ALMOND AND BLOSSOM.]

    ALMONDS.--Almonds are the fruit of the _Amygdalus commenis_, and
    are cultivated throughout the whole of the south of Europe,
    Syria, Persia, and Northern Africa; but England is mostly
    supplied with those which are grown in Spain and the south of
    France. They are distinguished into Sweet and Bitter, the
    produce of different varieties. Of the sweet, there are two
    varieties, distinguished in commerce by the names of Jordan and
    Valentia almonds. The former are imported from Malaga, and are
    longer, narrower, more pointed, and more highly esteemed than
    the latter, which are imported from Valentia. Bitter almonds are
    principally obtained from Morocco, and are exported from
    Mogador.

ALMOND PASTE, for Second-Course Dishes.

1220. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1 lb. of very
finely sifted sugar, the whites of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Blanch the almonds, and dry them thoroughly; put them into a
mortar, and pound them well, wetting them gradually with the whites of 2
eggs. When well pounded, put them into a small preserving-pan, add the
sugar, and place the pan on a small but clear fire (a hot-plate is
better); keep stirring until the paste is dry, then take it out of the
pan, put it between two dishes, and, when cold, make it into any shape
that fancy may dictate.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. for the above quantity.

_Sufficient_ for 3 small dishes of pastry.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    BITTER ALMONDS.--The Bitter Almond is a variety of the common
    almond, and is injurious to animal life, on account of the great
    quantity of hydrocyanic acid it contains, and is consequently
    seldom used in domestic economy, unless it be to give flavour to
    confectionery; and even then it should he used with great
    caution. A single drop of the essential oil of bitter almonds is
    sufficient to destroy a bird, and four drops have caused the
    death of a middle-sized dog.

BAKED ALMOND PUDDING.

(_Very rich_.)

1221. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of almonds, 4 bitter ditto, 1 glass of
sherry, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of butter, 1 pint
of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar.

_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with the water;
mix these with the butter, which should be melted; beat up the eggs,
grate the lemon-rind, and strain the juice; add these, with the cream,
sugar, and wine, to the other ingredients, and stir them well together.
When well mixed, put it into a pie-dish lined with puff-paste, and bake
for 1/2 hour.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--To make this pudding more economically, substitute milk for the
cream; but then add rather more than 1 oz. of finely grated bread.

    USES OF THE SWEET ALMOND.--The kernels of the sweet almond are
    used either in a green or ripe state, and as an article in the
    dessert. Into cookery, confectionery, perfumery, and medicine,
    they largely enter, and in domestic economy, should always be
    used in preference to bitter almonds. The reason for advising
    this, is because the kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or
    prussic acid, although it is found in the leaves, flowers, and
    bark of the tree. When young and green, they are preserved in
    sugar, like green apricots. They furnish the almond-oil; and the
    farinaceous matter which is left after the oil is expressed,
    forms the _pâte d'amandes_ of perfumers. In the arts, the oil is
    employed for the same purposes as the olive-oil, and forms the
    basis of kalydor, macassar oil, Gowland's lotion, and many other
    articles of that kind vended by perfumers. In medicine, it is
    considered a nutritive, laxative, and an emollient.

SMALL ALMOND PUDDINGS.

1222. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1/4 lb. of
butter, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

[Illustration: ALMOND PUDDINGS.]

_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with a spoonful
of water; warm the butter, mix the almonds with this, and add the other
ingredients, leaving out the whites of 2 eggs, and be particular that
these are well beaten. Mix well, butter some cups, half fill them, and
bake the puddings from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn them out on a dish,
and serve with sweet sauce.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    THE HUSKS OF ALMONDS.--In the environs of Alicante, the husks of
    almonds are ground to a powder, and enter into the composition
    of common soap, the large quantity of alkaline principle they
    contain rendering them suitable for this purpose. It is said
    that in some parts of the south of France, where they are
    extensively grown, horses and mules are fed on the green and dry
    husks; but, to prevent any evil consequences arising from this
    practice, they are mixed with chopped straw or oats.

ALMOND PUFFS.

1223. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of
pounded sugar, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter almonds.

_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar to a smooth paste;
melt the butter, dredge in the flour, and add the sugar and pounded
almonds. Beat the mixture well, and put it into cups or very tiny
jelly-pots, which should be well buttered, and bake in a moderate oven
for about 20 minutes, or longer should the puffs be large. Turn them out
on a dish, the bottom of the puff upper-most, and serve.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


AUNT NELLY'S PUDDING.

1224. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of treacle, 1/2 lb. of
suet, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, a few strips of candied lemon-peel,
3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, treacle,
lemon-peel minced, and candied lemon-peel; add the cream, lemon-juice,
and 2 well-beaten eggs; beat the pudding well, put it into a buttered
basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil from 3-1/2 to 4 hours.

_Time_.--3-1/2 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but more suitable for a winter pudding.

    TREACLE, OR MOLASSES.--Treacle is the uncrystallizable part of
    the saccharine juice drained from the Muscovado sugar, and is
    either naturally so or rendered uncrystallizable through some
    defect in the process of boiling. As it contains a large
    quantity of sweet or saccharine principle and is cheap, it is of
    great use as an article of domestic economy. Children are
    especially fond of it; and it is accounted wholesome. It is also
    useful for making beer, rum, and the very dark syrups.

BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS (a Plain Family Dish).

1225. INGREDIENTS.--6 apples, 3/4 lb.. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar to
taste.

_Mode_.--Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing
them, and make 1/2 lb. of suet-crust by recipe No. 1215; roll the apples
in the crust, previously sweetening them with moist sugar, and taking
care to join the paste nicely. When they are formed into round balls,
put them on a tin, and bake them for about 1/2 hour, or longer should
the apples be very large; arrange them pyramidically on a dish, and sift
over them some pounded white sugar. These may be made richer by using
one of the puff-pastes instead of suet.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour, or longer. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March, but flavourless after the end of
January.

    USES OF THE APPLE.--It is well known that this fruit forms a
    very important article of food, in the form of pies and
    puddings, and furnishes several delicacies, such as sauces,
    marmalades, and jellies, and is much esteemed as a dessert
    fruit. When flattened in the form of round cakes, and baked in
    ovens, they are called beefings; and large quantities are
    annually dried in the sun in America, as well as in Normandy,
    and stored for use during winter, when they may be stewed or
    made into pies. In a roasted state they are remarkably
    wholesome, and, it is said, strengthening to a weak stomach. In
    putrid and malignant fevers, when used with the juice of lemons
    and currants, they are considered highly efficacious.

APPLE CHEESECAKES.

1226. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of apple pulp, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4
lb. of butter, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1 lemon.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and boil sufficient apples to make 1/2 lb. when
cooked; add to these the sugar, the butter, which should be melted; the
eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites, and take grated rind and juice of 1
lemon; stir the mixture well; line some patty-pans with puff-paste, put
in the mixture, and bake about 20 minutes.

_Time_.--About 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, for the above quantity, with the paste, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for about 18 or 20 cheesecakes.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM.]

    THE APPLE.--The most useful of all the British fruits is the
    apple, which is a native of Britain, and may be found in woods
    and hedges, in the form of the common wild crab, of which all
    our best apples are merely seminal varieties, produced by
    culture or particular circumstances. In most temperate climates
    it is very extensively cultivated, and in England, both as
    regards variety and quantity, it is excellent and abundant.
    Immense supplies are also imported from the United States and
    from France. The apples grown in the vicinity of New York are
    universally admitted to be the finest of any; but unless
    selected and packed with great care, they are apt to spoil
    before reaching England.

BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS.

1227. INGREDIENTS.--6 apples, 3/4 lb. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar to
taste.

_Mode_.--Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing
them; sweeten, and roll each apple in a piece of crust, made by recipe
No. 1211; be particular that the paste is nicely joined; put the
dumplings into floured cloths, tie them securely, and put them into
boiling water. Keep them boiling from 1/2 to 3/4 hour; remove the
cloths, and send them hot and quickly to table. Dumplings boiled in
knitted cloths have a very pretty appearance when they come to table.
The cloths should be made square, just large enough to hold one
dumpling, and should be knitted in plain knitting, with _very coarse_
cotton.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour, or longer should the dumplings be very large.

_Average cost_, 11/2d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March, but flavourless after the end of
January.

    LAMBSWOOL, or LAMASOOL.--This old English beverage is composed
    of apples mixed with ale, and seasoned with sugar and spice. It
    takes its name from _Lamaes abhal_, which, in ancient British,
    signifies the day of apple fruit, from being drunk on the apple
    feast in autumn. In France, a beverage, called by the Parisians
    _raisinée_, is made by boiling any given quantity of new wine,
    skimming it as often as fresh scum rises, and, when it is boiled
    to half its bulk, straining it. To this apples, pared and cut
    into quarters, are added; the whole is then allowed to simmer
    gently, stirring it all the time with a long wooden spoon, till
    the apples are thoroughly mixed with the liquor, and the whole
    forms a species of marmalade, which is extremely agreeable to
    the taste, having a slight flavour of acidity, like lemon mixed
    with honey.

RICH BAKED APPLE PUDDING.

I.

1228. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of the pulp of apples, 1/2 lb. of loaf
sugar, 6 oz. of butter, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 eggs, puff-paste.

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce; put them into a
stewpan, with only just sufficient water to prevent them from burning,
and let them stew until reduced to a pulp. Weigh the pulp, and to every
1/2 lb. add sifted sugar, grated lemon-rind, and 6 well-beaten eggs.
Beat these ingredients well together; then melt the butter, stir it to
the other things, put a border of puff-paste round the dish, and bake
for rather more than 1/2 hour. The butter should not be added until the
pudding is ready for the oven.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

II.

(_More Economical_.)

1229. INGREDIENTS.--12 large apples, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. of
butter, 4 eggs, 1 pint of bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce, and boil them
until reduced to a pulp; then add the butter, melted, and the eggs,
which should be well whisked. Beat up the pudding for 2 or 3 minutes;
butter a pie-dish; put in a layer of bread crumbs, then the apple, and
then another layer of bread crumbs; flake over these a few tiny pieces
of butter, and bake for about 1/2 hour.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note_.--A very good economical pudding may be made merely with apples,
boiled and sweetened, with the addition of a few strips of lemon-peel. A
layer of bread crumbs should be placed above and below the apples, and
the pudding baked for 1/2 hour.

    CONSTITUENTS OF THE APPLE.--All apples contain sugar, malic
    acid, or the acid of apples; mucilage, or gum; woody fibre, and
    water; together with some aroma, on which their peculiar flavour
    depends. The hard acid kinds are unwholesome if eaten raw; but
    by the process of cooking, a great deal of this acid is
    decomposed and converted into sugar. The sweet and mellow kinds
    form a valuable addition to the dessert. A great part of the
    acid juice is converted into sugar as the fruit ripens, and even
    after it is gathered, by natural process, termed maturation;
    but, when apples decay, the sugar is changed into a bitter
    principle, and the mucilage becomes mouldy and offensive. Old
    cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the apple when
    eaten; probably from the volatile alkali or ammonia of the
    cheese neutralizing its acid.

RICH SWEET APPLE PUDDING.

1230. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of
currants, 1/2 lb. of apples, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 6 eggs, 12 sweet
almonds, 1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 wineglassful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet very fine; wash the currants, dry them, and pick
away the stalks and pieces of grit; pare, core, and chop the apple, and
grate the bread into fine crumbs, and mince the almonds. Mix all these
ingredients together, adding the sugar and nutmeg; beat up the eggs,
omitting the whites of three; stir these to the pudding, and when all is
well mixed, add the brandy, and put the pudding into a buttered mould;
tie down with a cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil for 3
hours.

_Time_.--3 hours.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

    TO PRESERVE APPLES.--The best mode of preserving apples is to
    carry them at once to the fruit-room, where they should be put
    upon shelves, covered with white paper, after gently wiping each
    of the fruit. The room should be dry, and well aired, but should
    not admit the sun. The finer and larger kinds of fruit should
    not be allowed to touch each other, but should be kept separate.
    For this purpose, a number of shallow trays should be provided,
    supported by racks or stands above each other. In very cold
    frosty weather, means should be adopted for warming the room.

BAKED APPLE PUDDING.

(_Very Good_.)

1231. INGREDIENTS.--5 moderate-sized apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of
finely-chopped suet, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 pint of milk,
a little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk; add the eggs,
which should be well whisked, and put this batter into a well-buttered
pie-dish. Wipe the apples clean, but do not pare them; cut them in
halves, and take out the cores; lay them in the batter, rind uppermost;
shake the suet on the top, over which, also grate a little nutmeg; bake
in a moderate oven for an hour, and cover, when served, with sifted loaf
sugar. This pudding is also very good with the apples pared, sliced, and
mixed with the batter.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.


BOILED APPLE PUDDING.

1232. INGREDIENTS.--Crust No. 1215, apples, sugar to taste, 1 small
teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of
lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Make a butter-crust by recipe No. 1213, or a suet one by recipe
No. 1215, using for a moderate-sized pudding from 3/4 to 1 lb. of flour,
with the other ingredients in proportion. Butter a basin; line it with
some of the paste; pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and fill
the basin with these; add the sugar, the lemon-peel and juice, and cover
with crust; pinch the edges together, flour the cloth, place it over the
pudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of fast-boiling water.
Let it boil from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, according to the size; then turn
it out of the basin and send to table quickly. Apple puddings may also
be boiled in a cloth without a basin; but, when made in this way, must
be served without the least delay, as the crust so soon becomes heavy.
Apple pudding is a very convenient dish to have when the dinner-hour is
rather uncertain, as it does not spoil by being boiled an extra hour;
care, however, must be taken to keep it well covered with the water all
the time, and not to allow it to stop boiling.

_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, according to the size of the pudding
and the quality of the apples.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_, made with 1 lb. of flour, for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March; but the apples become flavourless and
scarce after February.


APPLE TART OR PIE.

1233. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every lb. of
unpared apples allow 2 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of
finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Make 1/2 lb. of puff-paste by either of the above-named
recipes, place a border of it round the edge of a pie-dish, and fill it
with apples pared, cored, and cut into slices; sweeten with moist sugar,
add the lemon-peel and juice, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water; cover
with crust, cut it evenly round close to the edge of the pie-dish, and
bake in a hot oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, or rather longer, should the
pie be very large. When it is three-parts done, take it out of the oven,
put the white of an egg on a plate, and, with the blade of a knife,
whisk it to a froth; brush the pie over with this, then sprinkle upon it
some sifted sugar, and then a few drops of water. Put the pie back into
the oven, and finish baking, and be particularly careful that it does
not catch or burn, which it is very liable to do after the crust is
iced. If made with a plain crust, the icing may be omitted.

_Time_.--1/2 hour before the crust is iced; 10 to 15 minutes afterwards.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 lbs. of apples for a tart for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March; but the apples become flavourless
after February.

_Note_.--Many things are suggested for the flavouring of apple pie; some
say 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of beer, others the same quantity of sherry,
which very much improve the taste; whilst the old-fashioned addition of
a few cloves is, by many persons, preferred to anything else, as also a
few slices of quince.

[Illustration: QUINCE.]

    QUINCES.--The environs of Corinth originally produced the most
    beautiful quinces, but the plant was subsequently introduced
    into Gaul with the most perfect success. The ancients preserved
    the fruit by placing it, with its branches and leaves, in a
    vessel filled with honey or sweet wine, which was reduced to
    half the quantity by ebullition. Quinces may be profitably
    cultivated in this country as a variety with other fruit-trees,
    and may be planted in espaliers or as standards. A very
    fine-flavoured marmalade may be prepared from quinces, and a
    small portion of quince in apple pie much improves its flavour.
    The French use quinces for flavouring many sauces. This fruit
    has the remarkable peculiarity of exhaling an agreeable odour,
    taken singly; but when in any quantity, or when they are stowed
    away in a drawer or close room, the pleasant aroma becomes an
    intolerable stench, although the fruit may be perfectly sound;
    it is therefore desirable that, as but a few quinces are
    required for keeping, they should be kept in a high and dry
    loft, and out of the way of the rooms used by the family.

CREAMED APPLE TART.

1234. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-crust No. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every lb. of
pared and cored apples, allow 2 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of
minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 pint of boiled
custard.

_Mode_.--Make an apple tart by the preceding recipe, with the exception
of omitting the icing. When the tart is baked, cut out the middle of the
lid or crust, leaving a border all round the dish. Fill up with a
nicely-made boiled custard, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and the
pie is ready for table. This tart is usually eaten cold; is rather an
old-fashioned dish, but, at the same time, extremely nice.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.


APPLE SNOWBALLS.

1235. INGREDIENTS.--2 teacupfuls of rice, apples, moist sugar, cloves.

_Mode_.--Boil the rice in milk until three-parts done; then strain it
off, and pare and core the apples without dividing them. Put a small
quantity of sugar and a clove into each apple, put the rice round them,
and tie each ball separately in a cloth. Boil until the apples are
tender; then take them up, remove the cloths, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to boil the rice separately; 1/2 to 1 hour with the
apple.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.


APPLE TOURTE OR CAKE.

(_German Recipe_.)

1236. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 apples, sugar to taste, the rind of 1 small
lemon, 3 eggs, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, 1/4 lb. of butter, 3/4 lb. of
good short crust No. 1211, 3 oz. of sweet almonds.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into small pieces; put
sufficient moist sugar to sweeten them into a basin; add the lemon-peel,
which should be finely minced, and the cream; stir these ingredients
well, whisk the eggs, and melt the butter; mix altogether, add the
sliced apple, and let these be well stirred into the mixture. Line a
large round plate with the paste, place a narrow rim of the same round
the outer edge, and lay the apples thickly in the middle. Blanch the
almonds, cut them into long shreds, and strew over the top of the
apples, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, taking care that the almonds do
not get burnt: when done, strew some sifted sugar over the top, and
serve. This tourte may be eaten either hot or cold, and is sufficient to
fill 2 large-sized plates.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 2s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 large-sized tourtes.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

    APPLES.--No fruit is so universally popular as the apple. It is
    grown extensively for cider, but many sorts are cultivated for
    the table. The apple, uncooked, is less digestible than the
    pear; the degree of digestibility varying according to the
    firmness of its texture and flavour. Very wholesome and
    delicious jellies, marmalades, and sweetmeats are prepared from
    it. Entremets of apples are made in great variety. Apples, when
    peeled, cored, and well cooked, are a most grateful food for the
    dyspeptic.

ALMA PUDDING.

1237. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of fresh butter, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar,
1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of currants, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a thick cream, strew in, by degrees, the
sugar, and mix both these well together; then dredge the flour in
gradually, add the currants, and moisten with the eggs, which should be
well beaten. When all the ingredients are well stirred and mixed, butter
a mould that will hold the mixture exactly, tie it down with a cloth,
put the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 5 hours; when turned
out, strew some powdered sugar over it, and serve.

_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BAKED APRICOT PUDDING.

1238. INGREDIENTS.--12 large apricots, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint
of milk, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 glass of sherry.

_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling hot, and pour it on to the bread crumbs;
when half cold, add the sugar, the well-whisked yolks of the eggs, and
the sherry. Divide the apricots in half, scald them until they are soft,
and break them up with a spoon, adding a few of the kernels, which
should be well pounded in a mortar; then mix the fruit and other
ingredients together, put a border of paste round the dish, fill with
the mixture, and bake the pudding from 1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, in full season, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October.


APRICOT TART.

1239. INGREDIENTS.--12 or 14 apricots, sugar to taste, puff-paste or
short crust.

_Mode_.--Break the apricots in half, take out the stones, and put them
into a pie-dish, in the centre of which place a very small cup or jar,
bottom uppermost; sweeten with good moist sugar, but add no water. Line
the edge of the dish with paste, put on the cover, and ornament the pie
in any of the usual modes. Bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to size;
and if puff-paste is used, glaze it about 10 minutes before the pie is
done, and put it into the oven again to set the glaze. Short crust
merely requires a little sifted sugar sprinkled over it before being
sent to table.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, in full season, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; green ones rather
earlier.

_Note_.--Green apricots make very good tarts, but they should be boiled
with a little sugar and water before they are covered with the crust.

    APRICOTS.--The apricot is indigenous to the plains of Armenia,
    but is now cultivated in almost every climate, temperate or
    tropical. There are several varieties. The skin of this fruit
    has a perfumed flavour, highly esteemed. A good apricot, when
    perfectly ripe, is an excellent fruit. It has been somewhat
    condemned for its laxative qualities, but this has possibly
    arisen from the fruit having been eaten unripe, or in too great
    excess. Delicate persons should not eat the apricot uncooked,
    without a liberal allowance of powdered sugar. The apricot makes
    excellent jam and marmalade, and there are several foreign
    preparations of it which are considered great luxuries.

BAKED OR BOILED ARROWROOT PUDDING.

1240. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1
oz. of butter, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist
sugar, a little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Mix the arrowroot with as much cold milk as will make it into a
smooth batter, moderately thick; put the remainder of the milk into a
stewpan with the lemon-peel, and let it infuse for about 1/2 hour; when
it boils, strain it gently to the batter, stirring it all the time to
keep it smooth; then add the butter; beat this well in until thoroughly
mixed, and sweeten with moist sugar. Put the mixture into a pie-dish,
round which has been placed a border of paste, grate a little nutmeg
over the top, and bake the pudding from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, in a moderate
oven, or boil it the same length of time in a well-buttered basin. To
enrich this pudding, stir to the other ingredients, just before it is
put in the oven, 3 well-whisked eggs, and add a tablespoonful of brandy.
For a nursery pudding, the addition of the latter ingredients will be
found quite superfluous, as also the paste round the edge of the dish.

_Time_.--1 to 1-1/4 hour, baked or boiled. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    _ARROWROOT_.--In India, and in the colonies, by the process of
    rasping, they extract from a vegetable (_Maranta arundinacea_) a
    sediment nearly resembling tapioca. The grated pulp is sifted
    into a quantity of water, from which it is afterwards strained
    and dried, and the sediment thus produced is called arrowroot.
    Its qualities closely resemble those of tapioca.

A BACHELOR'S PUDDING.

1241. INGREDIENTS.--4 oz. of grated bread, 4 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of
apples, 2 oz. of sugar, 3 eggs, a few drops of essence of lemon, a
little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and mince the apples very finely, sufficient, when
minced, to make 4 oz.; add to these the currants, which should be well
washed, the grated bread, and sugar; whisk the eggs, beat these up with
the remaining ingredients, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, put the
pudding into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3
hours.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from August to March.


BAKEWELL PUDDING.

(_Very Rich_.)

I.

1242. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of puff-paste, 5 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, 1/4
lb. of butter, 1 oz. of almonds, jam.

_Mode_.--Cover a dish with thin paste, and put over this a layer of any
kind of jam, 1/2 inch thick; put the yolks of 5 eggs into a basin with
the white of 1, and beat these well; add the sifted sugar, the butter,
which should be melted, and the almonds, which should be well pounded;
beat all together until well mixed, then pour it into the dish over the
jam, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


II.

1243. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2
oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, jam.

_Mode_.--Put the bread crumbs at the bottom of a pie-dish, then over
them a layer of jam of any kind that may be preferred; mix the milk and
eggs together; add the sugar, butter, and pounded almonds; beat fill
well together; pour it into the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for 1
hour.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_. 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BARONESS PUDDING.

(_Author's Recipe_.)

1244. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of suet, 3/4 lb. of raisins weighed after
being stoned, 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 saltspoonful of
salt.

_Mode_.--Prepare the suet, by carefully freeing it from skin, and chop
it finely; stone the raisins, and cut them in halves, and mix both these
ingredients with the salt and flour; moisten the whole with the above
proportion of milk, stir the mixture well, and tie the pudding in a
floured cloth, which has been previously wrung out in boiling water. Put
the pudding into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil, without
ceasing, 4-1/2 hours. Serve merely with plain sifted sugar, a little of
which may be sprinkled over the pudding.

_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable.

_Note_.--This pudding the editress cannot too highly recommend. The
recipe was kindly given to her family by a lady who bore the title here
prefixed to it; and with all who have partaken of it, it is an especial
favourite. Nothing is of greater consequence, in the above directions,
than attention to the time of boiling, which should never be _less_ than
that mentioned.


BARBERRY TART.

1245. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of barberries allow 3/4 lb. of lump
sugar; paste.

[Illustration: LEAF IN PUFF-PASTE.]

_Mode_.--Pick the barberries from the stalks, and put the fruit into a
stone jar; place this jar in boiling water, and let it simmer very
slowly until the fruit is soft; then put it into a preserving-pan with
the sugar, and boil gently for 15 minutes; line a tartlet-pan with
paste, bake it, and, when the paste is cold, fill with the barberries,
and ornament the tart with a few baked leaves of paste, cut out, as
shown in the engraving.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to bake the tart.

_Average cost_, 4d. per pint.

_Seasonable_ in autumn.

[Illustration: BARBERRY.]

    BARBERRIES (_Berberris vulgaris_.)--A fruit of such great
    acidity, that even birds refuse to eat it. In this respect, it
    nearly approaches the tamarind. When boiled with sugar, it makes
    a very agreeable preserve or jelly, according to the different
    modes of preparing it. Barberries are also used as a dry
    sweetmeat, and in sugarplums or comfits; are pickled with
    vinegar, and are used for various culinary purposes. They are
    well calculated to allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted
    with fevers. The berries, arranged on bunches of nice curled
    parsley, make an exceedingly pretty garnish for supper-dishes,
    particularly for white meats, like boiled fowl à la Béchamel,
    the three colours, scarlet, green, and white, contrasting so
    well, and producing a very good effect.

BAKED BATTER PUDDING.

1246. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz.
of butter, 4 eggs, a little salt.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour with a small quantity of cold milk; make the
remainder hot, and pour it on to the flour, keeping the mixture well
stirred; add the butter, eggs, and salt; beat the whole well, and put
the pudding into a buttered pie-dish; bake for 3/4 hour, and serve with
sweet sauce, wine sauce, or stewed fruit. Baked in small cups, this
makes very pretty little puddings, and should be eaten with the same
accompaniments as above.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BAKED BATTER PUDDING, with Dried or Fresh Fruit.

1247. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 3
eggs, 2 oz. of finely-shredded suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, a pinch of
salt.

_Mode_.--Mix the milk, flour, and eggs to a smooth batter; add a little
salt, the suet, and the currants, which should be well washed, picked,
and dried; put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a
moderate oven for 1-1/4 hour. When fresh fruits are in season, this
pudding is exceedingly nice, with damsons, plums, red currants,
gooseberries, or apples; when made with these, the pudding must be
thickly sprinkled over with sifted sugar. Boiled batter pudding, with
fruit, is made in the same manner, by putting the fruit into a buttered
basin, and filling it up with batter made in the above proportion, but
omitting the suet. It must be sent quickly to table, and covered
plentifully with sifted sugar.

_Time_.--Baked batter pudding, with fruit, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour; boiled
ditto, 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour, allowing that both are made with the above
proportion of batter. Smaller puddings will be done enough in 3/4 or 1
hour.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time, with dried fruits.


BOILED BATTER PUDDING.

1248. INGREDIENTS.--3 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of milk, 3
tablespoonfuls of flour, a little salt.

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, and add sufficient milk to moisten
it; carefully rub down all the lumps with a spoon, then pour in the
remainder of the milk, and stir in the butter, which should be
previously melted; keep beating the mixture, add the eggs and a pinch of
salt, and when the batter is quite smooth, put it into a well-buttered
basin, tie it down very tightly, and put it into boiling water; move the
basin about for a few minutes after it is put into the water, to prevent
the flour settling in any part, and boil for 1-1/4 hour. This pudding
may also be boiled in a floured cloth that has been wetted in hot water;
it will then take a few minutes less than when boiled in a basin. Send
these puddings very quickly to table, and serve with sweet sauce, wine
sauce, stewed fruit, or jam of any kind: when the latter is used, a
little of it may be placed round the dish in small quantities, as a
garnish.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour in a basin, 1 hour in a cloth. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ORANGE BATTER PUDDING.

1249. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1-1/4 oz. of loaf sugar, 3
tablespoonfuls of flour.

_Mode_.--Make the batter with the above ingredients, put it into a
well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 1 hour. As
soon as it is turned out of the basin, put a small jar of orange
marmalade all over the top, and send the pudding very quickly to table.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, with the marmalade, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time; but more suitable for a winter pudding.


BAKED BREAD PUDDING.

1250. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of grated bread, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 4
oz. of butter, 4 oz. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel, 6 bitter
almonds, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a stewpan, with the bitter almonds; let it
infuse for 1/4 hour; bring it to the boiling point; strain it on to the
bread crumbs, and let these remain till cold; then add the eggs, which
should be well whisked, the butter, sugar, and brandy, and beat the
pudding well until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed; line the
bottom of a pie-dish with the candied peel sliced thin, put in the
mixture, and bake for nearly 3/4 hour.

_Time_.--Nearly 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--A few currants may be substituted for the candied peel, and
will be found an excellent addition to this pudding: they should be
beaten in with the mixture, and not laid at the bottom of the pie-dish.


VERY PLAIN BREAD PUDDING.

1251. INGREDIENTS.--Odd pieces of crust or crumb of bread; to every
quart allow 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 3
oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1-1/4 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Break the bread into small pieces, and pour on them as much
boiling water as will soak them well. Let these stand till the water is
cool; then press it out, and mash the bread with a fork until it is
quite free from lumps. Measure this pulp, and to every quart stir in
salt, nutmeg, sugar, and currants in the above proportion; mix all well
together, and put it into a well-buttered pie-dish. Smooth the surface
with the back of a spoon, and place the butter in small pieces over the
top; bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hour, and serve very hot. Boiling
milk substituted for the boiling water would very much improve this
pudding.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d., exclusive of the bread.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BOILED BREAD PUDDING.

1252. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, sugar
to taste, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of currants, 1/4 teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling, and pour it on the bread crumbs; let
these remain till cold; then add the other ingredients, taking care that
the eggs are well beaten and the currants well washed, picked, and
dried. Beat the pudding well, and put it into a buttered basin; tie it
down tightly with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for
1-1/4 hour; turn it out of the basin, and serve with sifted sugar. Any
odd pieces or scraps of bread answer for this pudding; but they should
be soaked overnight, and, when wanted for use, should have the water
well squeezed from them.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    BREAD.--Bread contains, in its composition, in the form of
    vegetable albumen and vegetable fibrine, two of the chief
    constituents of flesh, and, in its incombustible constituents,
    the salts which are indispensable for sanguification, of the
    same quality and in the same proportion as flesh. But flesh
    contains, besides these, a number of substances which are
    entirely wanting in vegetable food; and on these peculiar
    constituents of flesh depend certain effects, by which it is
    essentially distinguished from other articles of food.

BROWN-BREAD PUDDING.

1253. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of brown-bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of currants,
1/2 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--Grate 3/4 lb. of crumbs from a stale brown loaf; add to these
the currants and suet, and be particular that the latter is finely
chopped. Put in the remaining ingredients; beat the pudding well for a
few minutes; put it into a buttered basin or mould; tie it down tightly,
and boil for nearly 4 hours. Send sweet sauce to table with it.

_Time_.--Nearly 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time; but more suitable for a winter pudding.


MINIATURE BREAD PUDDINGS.

1254. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 4 eggs, 2
oz. of butter, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-minced lemon-peel.

_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling, pour it on to the bread crumbs, and let
them soak for about 1/2 hour. Beat the eggs, mix these with the bread
crumbs, add the remaining ingredients, and stir well until all is
thoroughly mixed. Butter some small cups; rather more than half fill
them with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to
1/2 hour, and serve with sweet sauce. A few currants may be added to
these puddings: about 3 oz. will be found sufficient for the above
quantity.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 small puddings.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BAKED BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING.

1255. INGREDIENTS.--9 thin slices of bread and butter, 1-1/2 pint of
milk, 4 eggs, sugar to taste, 1/4 lb. of currants, flavouring of
vanilla, grated lemon-peel or nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Cut 9 slices of bread and butter not very thick, and put them
into a pie-dish, with currants between each layer and on the top.
Sweeten and flavour the milk, either by infusing a little lemon-peel in
it, or by adding a few drops of essence of vanilla; well whisk the eggs,
and stir these to the milk. _Strain_ this over the bread and butter, and
bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour, or rather longer. This pudding may
be very much enriched by adding cream, candied peel, or more eggs than
stated above. It should not be turned out, but sent to table in the
pie-dish, and is better for being made about 2 hours before it is baked.

_Time_.--1 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    BUTTER.--Butter is indispensable in almost all culinary
    preparations. Good fresh butter, used in moderation, is easily
    digested; it is softening, nutritious, and fattening, and is far
    more easily digested than any other of the oleaginous substances
    sometimes used in its place.

CABINET or CHANCELLOR'S PUDDING.

1256. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of candied peel, 4 oz. of currants, 4
dozen sultanas, a few slices of Savoy cake, sponge cake, a French roll,
4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, grated lemon-rind, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 table-spoonfuls
of sugar.

[Illustration: CABINET PUDDING.]

_Mode_.--Melt some butter to a paste, and with it, well grease the mould
or basin in which the pudding is to be boiled, taking care that it is
buttered in every part. Cut the peel into thin slices, and place these
in a fanciful device at the bottom of the mould, and fill in the spaces
between with currants and sultanas; then add a few slices of sponge cake
or French roll; drop a few drops of melted butter on these, and between
each layer sprinkle a few currants. Proceed in this manner until the
mould is nearly full; then flavour the milk with nutmeg and grated
lemon-rind; add the sugar, and stir to this the eggs, which should be
well beaten. Beat this mixture for a few minutes; then strain it into
the mould, which should be quite full; tie a piece of buttered paper
over it, and let it stand for 2 hours; then tie it down with a cloth,
put it into boiling water, and let it boil slowly for 1 hour. In taking
it up, let it stand for a minute or two before the cloth is removed;
then quickly turn it out of the mould or basin, and serve with sweet
sauce separately. The flavouring of this pudding may be varied by
substituting for the lemon-rind essence of vanilla or bitter almonds;
and it may be made much richer by using cream; but this is not at all
necessary.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


A PLAIN CABINET or BOILED BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING.

1257. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of raisins, a few thin slices of bread and
butter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 1/4 nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Butter a pudding-basin, and line the inside with a layer of
raisins that have been previously stoned; then nearly fill the basin
with slices of bread and butter with the crust cut off, and, in another
basin, beat the eggs; add to them the milk, sugar, and grated nutmeg;
mix all well together, and pour the whole on to the bread and butter;
let it stand 1/2 hour, then tie a floured cloth over it; boil for 1
hour, and serve with sweet sauce. Care must be taken that the basin is
quite full before the cloth is tied over.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


CANARY PUDDING.

1258. INGREDIENTS.--The weight of 3 eggs in sugar and butter, the weight
of 2 eggs in flour, the rind of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Melt the butter to a liquid state, but do not allow it to oil;
stir to this the sugar and finely-minced lemon-peel, and gradually
dredge in the flour, keeping the mixture well stirred; whisk the eggs;
add these to the pudding; beat all the ingredients until thoroughly
blended, and put them into a buttered mould or basin; boil for 2 hours,
and serve with sweet sauce.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BAKED OR BOILED CARROT PUDDING.

1259. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of suet, 1/4 lb. of
stoned raisins, 3/4 lb. of carrot, 1/4 lb. of currants, 3 oz. of sugar,
3 eggs, milk, 1/4 nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Boil the carrots until tender enough to mash to a pulp; add the
remaining ingredients, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the
pudding of the consistency of thick batter. If to be boiled, put the
mixture into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for
2-1/2 hours: if to be baked, put it into a pie-dish, and bake for nearly
an hour; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted sugar over it, and serve.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to boil; 1 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

    CARROTS, says Liebig, contain the same kind of sugar as the
    juice of the sugar-cane.

ROYAL COBURG PUDDING.

1260. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of new milk, 6 oz. of flour, 6 oz. of sugar,
6 oz. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 6 eggs, brandy and grated nutmeg to
taste.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk, add the
remaining ingredients _gradually_, and when well mixed, put it into four
basins or moulds half full; bake for 3/4 hour, turn the puddings out on
a dish, and serve with wine sauce.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


CHERRY TART.

1261. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of cherries, 2 small tablespoonfuls of
moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of short crust, No. 1210 or 1211.

_Mode_.--Pick the stalks from the cherries, put them, with the sugar,
into a _deep_ pie-dish just capable of holding them, with a small cup
placed upside down in the midst of them. Make a short crust with 1/2 lb.
of flour, by either of the recipes 1210 or 1211; lay a border round the
edge of the dish; put on the cover, and ornament the edges; bake in a
brisk oven from 1/2 hour to 40 minutes; strew finely-sifted sugar over,
and serve hot or cold, although the latter is the more usual mode. It is
more economical to make two or three tarts at one time, as the trimmings
from one tart answer for lining the edges of the dish for another, and
so much paste is not required as when they are made singly. Unless for
family use, never make fruit pies in very _large_ dishes; select them,
however, as deep as possible.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to 40 minutes.

_Average cost_, in full season, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.

_Note_.--A few currants added to the cherries will be found to impart a
nice piquant taste to them.

[Illustration: CHERRY.]

    CHERRIES.--According to Lucullus, the cherry-tree was known in
    Asia in the year of Rome 680. Seventy different species of
    cherries, wild and cultivated, exist, which are distinguishable
    from each other by the difference of their form, size, and
    colour. The French distil from cherries a liqueur Darned
    _kirsch-waser_ (_eau de cérises_); the Italians prepare, from a
    cherry called marusca, the liqueur named _marasquin_, sweeter
    and more agreeable than the former. The most wholesome cherries
    have a tender and delicate skin; those with a hard skin should
    be very carefully masticated. Sweetmeats, syrups, tarts,
    entremets, &c., of cherries, are universally approved.

COLD PUDDING.

1262. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, a little
grated lemon-rind, 2 oz. of raisins, 4 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, a
few slices of sponge cake.

_Mode_.--Sweeten the milk with lump sugar, add a little grated
lemon-rind, and stir to this the eggs, which should be well whisked;
line a buttered mould with the raisins, stoned and cut in half; spread
the slices of cake with the marmalade, and place them in the mould; then
pour in the custard, tie the pudding down with paper and a cloth, and
boil gently for 1 hour: when cold, turn it out, and serve.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


COLLEGE PUDDINGS.

1263. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of bread crumbs, 6 oz. of finely-chopped
suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel, 3 oz. of
sugar, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.--Put the bread crumbs into a basin; add the suet, currants,
candied peel, sugar, and nutmeg, grated, and stir these ingredients
until they are thoroughly mixed. Beat up the eggs, moisten the pudding
with these, and put in the brandy; beat well for a few minutes, then
form the mixture into round balls or egg-shaped pieces; fry these in hot
butter or lard, letting them stew in it until thoroughly done, and turn
them two or three times, till of a fine light brown; drain them on a
piece of blotting-paper before the fire; dish, and serve with wine
sauce.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time.


CURRANT DUMPLINGS.

1264. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of suet, 1/2 lb. of currants,
rather more than 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely, mix it with the flour, and add the
currants, which should be nicely washed, picked, and dried; mix the
whole to a limp paste with the water (if wanted very nice, use milk);
divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; tie them in cloths, and boil for 1-1/4
hour. They may be boiled without a cloth: they should then be made into
round balls, and dropped into boiling water, and should be moved about
at first, to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan.
Serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted sugar.

_Time_.--In a cloth, 1-1/4 hour; without, 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 9 d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: ZANTE CURRANTS.]

    ZANTE CURRANTS.--The dried fruit which goes by the name of
    currants in grocers' shops is not a currant really, but a small
    kind of grape, chiefly cultivated in the Morea and the Ionian
    Islands, Corfu, Zante, &c. Those of Zante are cultivated in an
    immense plain, under the shelter of mountains, on the shore of
    the island, where the sun has great power, and brings them to
    maturity. When gathered and dried by the sun and air, on mats,
    they are conveyed to magazines, heaped together, and left to
    cake, until ready for shipping. They are then dug out by iron
    crowbars, trodden into casks, and exported. The fertile vale of
    "Zante the woody" produces about 9,000,000 lbs. of currants
    annually. In cakes and puddings this delicious little grape is
    most extensively used; in fact, we could not make a plum pudding
    without the currant.

BOILED CURRANT PUDDING.

(_Plain and Economical_.)

1265. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of
currants, milk.

_Mode_.--Wash the currants, dry them thoroughly, and pick away any
stalks or grit; chop the suet finely; mix all the ingredients together,
and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding into a stiff
batter; tie it up in a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and
boil for 3-1/2 hours; serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted
sugar.

_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BLACK or RED CURRANT PUDDING.

1266. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of red or black currants, measured with the
stalks, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, suet crust No. 1215, or butter crust No.
1213.

_Mode_.--Make, with 3/4 lb. of flour, either a suet crust or butter
crust (the former is usually made); butter a basin, and line it with
part of the crust; put in the currants, which should be stripped from
the stalks, and sprinkle the sugar over them; put the cover of the
pudding on; make the edges very secure, that the juice does not escape;
tie it down with a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil
from 2-1/2 to 3 hours. Boiled without a basin, allow 1/2 hour less. We
have allowed rather a large proportion of sugar; but we find fruit
puddings are so much more juicy and palatable when _well sweetened_
before they are boiled, besides being more economical. A few raspberries
added to red-currant pudding are a very nice addition: about 1/2 pint
would be sufficient for the above quantity of fruit. Fruit puddings are
very delicious if, when they are turned out of the basin, the crust is
browned with a salamander, or put into a very hot oven for a few minutes
to colour it: this makes it crisp on the surface.

_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours; without a basin, 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, in full season, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.

[Illustration: CURRANTS.]

    CURRANTS.--The utility of currants, red, black, or white, has
    long been established in domestic economy. The juice of the red
    species, if boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, forms an
    agreeable substance called _currant jelly_, much employed in
    sauces, and very valuable in the cure of sore throats and colds.
    The French mix it with sugar and water, and thus form an
    agreeable beverage. The juice of currants is a valuable remedy
    in obstructions of the bowels; and, in febrile complaints, it is
    useful on account of its readily quenching thirst, and for its
    cooling effect on the stomach. White and flesh-coloured
    currants have, with the exception of the fullness of flavour, in
    every respect, the same qualities as the red species. Both white
    and red currants are pleasant additions to the dessert, but the
    black variety is mostly used for culinary and medicinal
    purposes, especially in the form of jelly for quinsies. The
    leaves of the black currant make a pleasant tea.

RED-CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART.

1267. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of picked currants, 1/2 pint of
raspberries, 3 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of short
crust.

_Mode_.--Strip the currants from the stalks, and put them into a deep
pie-dish, with a small cup placed in the midst, bottom upwards; add the
raspberries and sugar; place a border of paste round the edge of the
dish, cover with crust, ornament the edges, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4
hour: strew some sifted sugar over before being sent to table. This tart
is more generally served cold than hot.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.

[Illustration: RASPBERRY.]

    RASPBERRIES.--There are two sorts of raspberries, the red and
    the white. Both the scent and flavour of this fruit are very
    refreshing, and the berry itself is exceedingly wholesome, and
    invaluable to people of a nervous or bilious temperament. We are
    not aware, however, of its being cultivated with the same amount
    of care which is bestowed upon some other of the berry tribe,
    although it is far from improbable that a more careful
    cultivation would not be repaid by a considerable improvement in
    the size and flavour of the berry; neither, as an eating fruit,
    is it so universally esteemed as the strawberry, with whose
    lusciousness and peculiarly agreeable flavour it can bear no
    comparison. In Scotland, it is found in large quantities,
    growing wild, and is eagerly sought after, in the woods, by
    children. Its juice is rich and abundant, and to many, extremely
    agreeable.

BAKED CUSTARD PUDDING.

1268. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of 1/4 lemon, 1/4 lb.
of moist sugar, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan with the sugar and lemon-rind, and
let this infuse for about 4 hour, or until the milk is well flavoured;
whisk the eggs, yolks and whites; pour the milk to them, stirring all
the while; then have ready a pie-dish, lined at the edge with paste
ready baked; strain the custard into the dish, grate a little nutmeg
over the top, and bake in a _very slow_ oven for about 1/2 hour, or
rather longer. The flavour of this pudding may be varied by substituting
bitter almonds for the lemon-rind; and it may be very much enriched by
using half cream and half milk, and doubling the quantity of eggs.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--This pudding is usually served cold with fruit tarts.


BOILED CUSTARD PUDDING.

1269. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs,
flavouring to taste.

_Mode_.--Flavour the milk by infusing in it a little lemon-rind or
cinnamon; whisk the eggs, stir the flour gradually to these, and pour
over them the milk, and stir the mixture well. Butter a basin that will
exactly hold it; put in the custard, and tie a floured cloth over;
plunge it into boiling water, and turn it about for a few minutes, to
prevent the flour from settling in one part. Boil it slowly for 1/2
hour; turn it out of the basin, and serve. The pudding may be garnished
with red-currant jelly, and sweet sauce may be sent to table with it.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


DAMSON TART.

1270. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 pint of damsons, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/2
lb. of short or puff crust.

_Mode_.--Put the damsons, with the sugar between them, into a deep
pie-dish, in the midst of which, place a small cup or jar turned upside
down; pile the fruit high in the middle, line the edges of the dish with
short or puff crust, whichever may be preferred; put on the cover,
ornament the edges, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour in a good oven. If
puff-crust is used, about 10 minutes before the pie is done, take it out
of the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a froth
with the blade of a knife; strew some sifted sugar over, and a few drops
of water, and put the tart back to finish baking: with short crust, a
little plain sifted sugar, sprinkled over, is all that will be required.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in September and October.

[Illustration: DAMSONS.]

    DAMSONS.--Whether for jam, jelly, pie, pudding, water, ice,
    wine, dried fruit or preserved, the damson, or _damascene_ (for
    it was originally brought from Damascus, whence its name), is
    invaluable. It combines sugary and acid qualities in happy
    proportions, when full ripe. It is a fruit easily cultivated;
    and, if budded nine inches from the ground on vigorous stocks,
    it will grow several feet high in the first year, and make fine
    standards the year following. Amongst the list of the best sorts
    of baking plums, the damson stands first, not only on account of
    the abundance of its juice, but also on account of its soon
    softening. Because of the roughness of its flavour, it requires
    a large quantity of sugar.

DAMSON PUDDING.

1271. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of damsons, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 3/4
lb. of suet or butter crust.

_Mode_.--Make a suet crust with 3/4 lb. of flour by recipe No. 1215;
line a buttered pudding-basin with a portion of it; fill the basin with
the damsons, sweeten them, and put on the lid; pinch the edges of the
crust together, that the juice does not escape; tie over a floured
cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2-1/2 to 3
hours.

_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ in September and October.


DELHI PUDDING.

1272. INGREDIENTS.--4 large apples, a little grated nutmeg, 1
teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 large tablespoonfuls of sugar, 6 oz.
of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices; put them into a
saucepan, with the nutmeg, lemon-peel, and sugar; stir them over the
fire until soft; then have ready the above proportion of crust, roll it
out thin, spread the apples over the paste, sprinkle over the currants,
roll the pudding up, closing the ends properly, tie it in a floured
cloth, and boil for 2 hours.

_Time_.--2 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.


EMPRESS PUDDING.

1273. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, 3 eggs, jam,
sufficient milk to soften the rice.

_Mode_.--Boil the rice in the milk until very soft; then add the butter
boil it for a few minutes after the latter ingredient is put in, and set
it by to cool. Well beat the eggs, stir these in, and line a dish with
puff-paste; put over this a layer of rice, then a thin layer of any kind
of jam, then another layer of rice, and proceed in this manner until the
dish is full; and bake in a moderate oven for 3/4 hour. This pudding may
be eaten hot or cold; if the latter, it will be much improved by having
a boiled custard poured over it.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


EXETER PUDDING.

(_Very rich_.)

1274. INGREDIENTS.--10 oz. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of sago, 7 oz. of
finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 1/4
pint of rum, 7 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 4 small sponge cakes, 2
oz. of ratafias, 1/2 lb. of jam.

_Mode_.--Put the bread crumbs into a basin with the sago, suet, sugar,
minced lemon-peel, rum, and 4 eggs; stir these ingredients well
together, then add 3 more eggs and the cream, and let the mixture be
well beaten. Then butter a mould, strew in a few bread crumbs, and cover
the bottom with a layer of ratafias; then put in a layer of the mixture,
then a layer of sliced sponge cake spread thickly with any kind of jam;
then add some ratafias, then some of the mixture and sponge cake, and so
on until the mould is full, taking care that a layer of the mixture is
on the top of the pudding. Bake in a good oven from 3/4 to 1 hour, and
serve with the following sauce:--Put 3 tablespoonfuls of black-currant
jelly into a stewpan, add 2 glasses of sherry, and, when warm, turn the
pudding out of the mould, pour the sauce over it, and serve hot.

_Time_.--From 1 to 1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


FIG PUDDING.

I.

1275. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of figs, 1 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2
lb. of bread crumbs, 2 eggs, milk.

_Mode_.--Cut the figs into small pieces, grate the bread finely, and
chop the suet very small; mix these well together, add the flour, the
eggs, which should be well beaten, and sufficient milk to form the whole
into a stiff paste; butter a mould or basin, press the pudding into it
very closely, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours, or rather
longer; turn it out of the mould, and serve with melted butter,
wine-sauce, or cream.

_Time_.--3 hours, or longer. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter pudding.


II.

(_Staffordshire Recipe_.)

1276. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of figs, 6 oz. of suet, 3/4 lb. of flour,
milk.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely, mix with it the flour, and make these
into a smooth paste with milk; roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2
inch, cut the figs in small pieces, and strew them over the paste; roll
it up, make the ends secure, tie the pudding in a cloth, and boil it
from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


FOLKESTONE PUDDING-PIES.

1277. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of ground rice, 3 oz. of
butter, 1/4 lb. of sugar, flavouring of lemon-peel or bay-leaf, 6 eggs,
puff-paste, currants.

_Mode_.--Infuse 2 laurel or bay leaves, or the rind of 1/2 lemon, in the
milk, and when it is well flavoured, strain it, and add the rice; boil
these for 1/4 hour, stirring all the time; then take them off the fire,
stir in the butter, sugar, and eggs, and let these latter be well beaten
before they are added to the other ingredients; when nearly cold, line
some patty-pans with puff-paste, fill with the custard, strew over each
a few currants, and bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a moderate oven.

_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a dozen patty-pans.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


FRUIT TURNOVERS (suitable for Pic-Nics).

1278. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1206, any kind of fruit, sugar to
taste.

_Mode_.--Make some puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to the
thickness of about 1/4 inch, and cut it out in pieces of a circular
form; pile the fruit on half of the paste, sprinkle over some sugar, wet
the edges and turn the paste over. Press the edges together, ornament
them, and brush the turnovers over with the white of an egg; sprinkle
over sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a brisk oven, for about 20
minutes. Instead of putting the fruit in raw, it may be boiled down with
a little sugar first, and then inclosed in the crust; or jam, of any
kind, may be substituted for fresh fruit.

_Time_.--20 minutes.

_Sufficient_--1/2 lb. of puff-paste will make a dozen turnovers.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


GERMAN PUDDING.

1279. INGREDIENTS.--2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot,
1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, the rind of 1/2 lemon,
4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the lemon-rind until well flavoured; then
strain it, and mix with it the flour, arrowroot, butter, and sugar. Boil
these ingredients for a few minutes, keeping them well stirred; then
take them off the fire and mix with them the eggs, yolks and whites,
beaten separately and added separately. Boil some sugar to candy; line a
mould with this, put in the brandy, then the mixture; tie down with a
cloth, and boil for rather more than 1 hour. When turned out, the brandy
and sugar make a nice sauce.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


DAMPFNUDELN, or GERMAN PUDDINGS.

1280. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 5 eggs, 2 small
tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-pounded sugar, milk,
a very little salt.

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, make a hole in the centre, into
which put the yeast, and rather more than 1/4 pint of warm milk; make
this into a batter with the middle of the flour, and let the sponge rise
in a warm temperature. When sufficiently risen, mix the eggs, butter,
sugar, and salt with a little more warm milk, and knead the whole well
together with the hands, beating the dough until it is perfectly smooth,
and it drops from the fingers. Then cover the basin with a cloth, put it
in a warm place, and when the dough has nicely risen, knead it into
small balls; butter the bottom of a deep sauté-pan, strew over some
pounded sugar, and let the dampfnudeln be laid in, but do not let them
touch one another; then pour over sufficient milk to cover them, put on
the lid, and let them rise to twice their original size by the side of
the fire. Now place them in the oven for a few minutes, to acquire a
nice brown colour, and serve them on a napkin, with custard sauce
flavoured with vanilla, or a _compôte_ of any fruit that may be
preferred.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour for the sponge to rise; 10 to 15 minutes for
the puddings to rise; 10 minutes to bake them in a brisk oven.

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 dampfnudeln.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


GINGER PUDDING.

1281. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of moist
sugar, 2 large teaspoonfuls of grated ginger.

_Mode_.--Shred the suet very fine, mix it with the flour, sugar, and
ginger; stir all well together; butter a basin, and put the mixture in
_dry_; tie a cloth over, and boil for 3 hours.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


GOLDEN PUDDING.

1282. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of
marmalade, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the bread crumbs into a basin; mix with them the suet,
which should be finely minced, the marmalade, and the sugar; stir all
these ingredients well together, beat the eggs to a froth, moisten the
pudding with these, and when well mixed, put it into a mould or buttered
basin; tie down with a floured cloth, and boil for 2 hours. When turned
out, strew a little fine-sifted sugar over the top, and serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 11d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The mould may be ornamented with stoned raisins, arranged in
any fanciful pattern, before the mixture is poured in, which would add
very much to the appearance of the pudding. For a plainer pudding,
double the quantities of the bread crumbs, and if the eggs do not
moisten it sufficiently, use a little milk.


BAKED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.

1283. INGREDIENTS.--Gooseberries, 3 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint
of bread crumbs, sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the gooseberries into a jar, previously cutting off the
tops and tails; place this jar in boiling water, and let it boil until
the gooseberries are soft enough to pulp; then beat them through a
coarse sieve, and to every pint of pulp add 3 well-whisked eggs, 1-1/2
oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of bread crumbs, and sugar to taste; beat the
mixture well, put a border of puff-paste round the edge of a pie-dish,
put in the pudding, bake for about 40 minutes, strew sifted sugar over,
and serve.

_Time_.--About 40 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from May to July.


BOILED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.

1284. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1-1/2 pint of green
gooseberries, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.

_Mode_.--Line a pudding-basin with suet crust no. 1215, rolled out to
about 1/2 inch in thickness, and, with a pair of scissors, cut off the
tops and tails of the gooseberries; fill the basin with the fruit, put
in the sugar, and cover with crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding
together, tie over it a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and
boil from 2-1/2 to 3 hours; turn it out of the basin, and serve with a
jug of cream.

_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ from May to July.


GOOSEBERRY TART.

1285. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of gooseberries, 1/2 lb. of short crust
No. 1211, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.

_Mode_.--With a pair of scissors cut off the tops and tails of the
gooseberries; put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the fruit high in the
centre, and put in the sugar; line the edge of the dish with short
crust, put on the cover, and ornament the edges of the tart; bake in a
good oven for about 3/4 hour, and before being sent to table, strew over
it some fine-sifted sugar. A jug of cream, or a dish of boiled or baked
custards, should always accompany this dish.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from May to July.

[Illustration: GOOSEBERRY.]

    GOOSEBERRIES.--The red and the white are the two principal
    varieties of gooseberries. The red are rather the more acid;
    but, when covered with white sugar, are most wholesome, because
    the sugar neutralizes their acidity. Red gooseberries make an
    excellent jelly, which is light and refreshing, but not very
    nourishing. It is good for bilious and plethoric persons, and to
    invalids generally who need light and digestible food. It is a
    fruit from which many dishes might be made. All sorts of
    gooseberries are agreeable when stewed, and, in this country
    especially, there is no fruit so universally in favour. In
    Scotland, there is scarcely a cottage-garden without its
    gooseberry-bush. Several of the species are cultivated with the
    nicest care.

HALF-PAY PUDDING.

1286. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. of
raisins, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
treacle, 1/2 pint of milk.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the currants, which should be
nicely washed and dried, the raisins, which should be stoned, the flour,
bread crumbs, and treacle; moisten with the milk, beat up the
ingredients until all are thoroughly mixed, put them into a buttered
basin, and boil the pudding for 3-1/2 hours.

_Time_.--3-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


HERODOTUS PUDDING.

1287. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of good figs, 6 oz.
of suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 3 eggs, nutmeg
to taste.

_Mode_.--Mince the suet and figs very finely; add the remaining
ingredients, taking care that the eggs are well whisked; beat the
mixture for a few minutes, put it into a buttered mould, tie it down
with a floured cloth, and boil the pudding for 5 hours. Serve with wine
sauce.

_Time_.--5 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


HUNTER'S PUDDING.

1288. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet,
1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 lb. of moist sugar, 8 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
flour, 3 lb. of mixed candied peel, 1 glass of brandy, 10 drops of
essence of lemon, 10 drops of essence of almonds, 1/2 nutmeg, 2 blades
of mace, 6 cloves.

_Mode_.--Stone and shred the raisins rather small, chop the suet finely,
and rub the bread until all lumps are well broken; pound the spice to
powder, cut the candied peel into thin shreds, and mix all these
ingredients well together, adding the sugar. Beat the eggs to a strong
froth, and as they are beaten, drop into them the essence of lemon and
essence of almonds; stir these to the dry ingredients, mix well, and add
the brandy. Tie the pudding firmly in a cloth, and boil it for 6 hours
at the least: 7 or 8 hours would be still better for it. Serve with
boiled custard, or red-currant jelly, or brandy sauce.

_Time_.--6 to 8 hours.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.


ICED PUDDING.

(_Parisian Recipe_.)

[Illustration: ICED-PUDDING MOULD.]

1289. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 2 oz. of bitter ones, 3/4
lb. of sugar, 8 eggs, 1-1/2 pint of milk.

_Mode_.--Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly in a cloth, then pound
them in a mortar until reduced to a smooth paste; add to these the
well-beaten eggs, the sugar, and milk; stir these ingredients over the
fire until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil; then strain and
put the mixture into the freezing-pot; surround it with ice, and freeze
it as directed in recipe 1290. When quite frozen, fill an iced-pudding
mould, put on the lid, and keep the pudding in ice until required for
table; then turn it out on the dish, and garnish it with a _compôte_ of
any fruit that may be preferred, pouring a little over the top of the
pudding. This pudding may be flavoured with vanilla, Curaçoa, or
Maraschino.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.

_Seasonable_.--Served all the year round.


ICED APPLE PUDDING. (_French Recipe, after Carême_.)

1290. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen apples, a small pot of apricot-jam, 1/2 lb.
of sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1/4 pint of preserved cherries, 1/4 lb. of
raisins, 1 oz. of citron, 2 oz. of almonds, 1 gill of Curaçoa, 1 gill of
Maraschino, 1 pint of cream.

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and simmer them
over the fire until soft; then mix with them the apricot-jam and the
sugar, on which the rind of the orange should be previously rubbed; work
all these ingredients through a sieve, and put them into the
freezing-pot. Stone the raisins, and simmer them in a little syrup for a
few minutes; add these, with the sliced citron, the almonds cut in dice,
and the cherries drained from their syrup, to the ingredients in the
freezing-pot; put in the Curaçoa and Maraschino, and freeze again; add
as much whipped cream as will be required, freeze again, and fill the
mould. Put the lid on, and plunge the mould into the ice-pot; cover it
with a wet cloth and pounded ice and saltpetre, where it should remain
until wanted for table. Turn the pudding out of the mould on to a clean
and neatly-folded napkin, and serve, as sauce, a little iced whipped
cream, in a sauce-tureen or glass dish.

[Illustration: ICE-SPATTLE.]

[Illustration: ICE-FREEZING PAIL.]

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Method of working the freezing Apparatus_.--Put into the outer pail
some pounded ice, upon which strew some saltpetre; then fix the pewter
freezing-pot upon this, and surround it entirely with ice and saltpetre.
Wipe the cover and edges of the pot, pour in the preparation, and close
the lid; a quarter of an hour after, begin turning the freezing-pan from
right to left, and when the mixture begins to be firm round the sides of
the pot, stir it about with the slice or spattle, that the preparation
may be equally congealed. Close the lid again, keep working from right
to left, and, from time to time, remove the mixture from the sides, that
it may be smooth; and when perfectly frozen, it is ready to put in the
mould; the mould should then be placed in the ice again, where it should
remain until wanted for table.


ROLY-POLY JAM PUDDING.

1291. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb of suet-crust No. 1215, 3/4 lb. of any kind
of jam.

_Mode_.--Make a nice light suet-crust by recipe No. 1215, and roll it
out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Spread the jam equally over it,
leaving a small margin of paste without any, where the pudding joins.
Roll it up, fasten the ends securely, and tie it in a floured cloth; put
the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 2 hours. Mincemeat or
marmalade may be substituted for the jam, and makes excellent puddings.

_Time_.--2 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for winter puddings, when fresh fruit is not
obtainable.


LEMON CHEESECAKES.

1292. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 eggs, the
rind of 2 lemons and the juice of 3.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully grating the
lemon-rind and straining the juice. Keep stirring the mixture over the
fire until the sugar is dissolved, and it begins to thicken: when of the
consistency of honey, it is done; then put it into small jars, and keep
in a dry place. This mixture will remain good 3 or 4 months. When made
into cheesecakes, add a few pounded almonds, or candied peel, or grated
sweet biscuit; line some patty-pans with good puff-paste, rather more
than half fill them with the mixture, and bake for about 1/4 hour in a
good brisk oven.

_Time_.--1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 24 cheesecakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMON MINCEMEAT.

1293. INGREDIENTS.--2 large lemons, 6 large apples, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1
lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of
citron, mixed spice to taste.

_Mode_.--Pare the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel until tender
enough to mash. Add to the mashed lemon-peel the apples, which should be
pared, cored, and minced; the chopped suet, currants, sugar, sliced
peel, and spice. Strain the lemon-juice to these ingredients, stir the
mixture well, and put it in a jar with a closely-fitting lid. Stir
occasionally, and in a week or 10 days the mincemeat will be ready for
use.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 18 large or 24 small pies.

_Seasonable_.--Make this about the beginning of December.


LEMON DUMPLINGS.

1294. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of grated bread, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet,
1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 2 eggs, 1 large lemon.

[Illustration: LEMON DUMPLINGS.]

_Mode_.--Mix the bread, suet, and moist sugar well together, adding the
lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced. Moisten with the eggs
and strained lemon-juice; stir well, and put the mixture into small
buttered cups. Tie them down and boil for 3/4 hour. Turn them out on a
dish, strew sifted sugar over them, and serve with wine sauce.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 dumplings.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BAKED LEMON PUDDING.

I.

1295. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 4 oz. of pounded sugar, 1
lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, puff-crust.

_Mode_.--Beat the eggs to a froth; mix with them the sugar and warmed
butter; stir these ingredients well together, putting in the grated rind
and strained juice of the lemon-peel. Line a shallow dish with
puff-paste; put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for 40
minutes; turn the pudding out of the dish, strew over it sifted sugar,
and serve.

_Time_.--40 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


II.

1296. INGREDIENTS.--10 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 pints of milk, 2 oz. of
butter, 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
brandy.

_Mode_.--Bring the milk to the boiling point, stir in the butter, and
pour these hot over the bread crumbs; add the sugar and very
finely-minced lemon-peel; beat the eggs, and stir these in with the
brandy to the other ingredients; put a paste round the dish, and bake
for 3/4 hour.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: LEMON.]

    LEMON.--The lemon is a variety of the citron. The juice of this
    fruit makes one of our most popular and refreshing
    beverages--lemonade, which is gently stimulating and cooling,
    and soon quenches the thirst. It may he freely partaken by
    bilious and sanguine temperaments; but persons with irritable
    stomachs should avoid it, on account of its acid qualities. The
    fresh rind of the lemon is a gentle tonic, and, when dried and
    grated, is used in flavouring a variety of culinary
    preparations. Lemons appear in company with the orange in most
    orange-growing countries. They were only known to the Romans at
    a very late period, and, at first, were used only to keep the
    moths from their garments: their acidity was unpleasant to them.
    In the time of Pliny, the lemon was hardly known otherwise than
    as an excellent counter-poison.

III.

(_Very rich_.)

1297. INGREDIENTS.--The rind and juice of 2 large lemons, 1/2 lb. of
loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 oz. of almonds,
1/2 lb. of butter, melted.

_Mode_.--Mix the pounded sugar with the cream, and add the yolks of eggs
and the butter, which should be previously warmed. Blanch and pound the
almonds, and put these, with the grated rind and strained juice of the
lemons, to the other ingredients. Stir all well together; line a dish
with puff-paste, put in the mixture, and bake for 1 hour.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BOILED LEMON PUDDING.

1298. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of chopped suet, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2
small lemons, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. of flour, 2 eggs, milk.

_Mode_.--Mix the suet, bread crumbs, sugar, and flour well together,
adding the lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced, and the
juice, which should be strained. When these ingredients are well mixed,
moisten with the eggs and sufficient milk to make the pudding of the
consistency of thick batter; put it into a well-buttered mould, and boil
for 3-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve with
wine sauce, or not, at pleasure.

_Time_.--3-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--This pudding may also be baked, and will be found very good. It
will take about 2 hours.


PLAIN LEMON PUDDING.

1299. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of lard or dripping, the
juice of 1 large lemon, 1 teaspoonful of flour, sugar.

_Mode_.--Make the above proportions of flour and lard into a smooth
paste, and roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Squeeze the
lemon-juice, strain it into a cup, stir the flour into it, and as much
moist sugar as will make it into a stiff and thick paste; spread this
mixture over the paste, roll it up, secure the ends, and tie the pudding
in a floured cloth. Boil for 2 hours.

_Time_.--2 hours.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


MANCHESTER PUDDING (to eat Cold).

1300. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of grated bread, 1/2 pint of milk, a strip of
lemon-peel, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, puff-paste, jam, 3
tablespoonfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with lemon-peel, by infusing it in the milk
for 1/2 hour; then strain it on to the bread crumbs, and boil it for 2
or 3 minutes; add the eggs, leaving out the whites of 2, the butter,
sugar, and brandy; stir all these ingredients well together; cover a
pie-dish with puff-paste, and at the bottom put a thick layer of any
kind of jam; pour the above mixture, cold, on the jam, and bake the
pudding for an hour. Serve cold, with a little sifted sugar sprinkled
over.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SWEET MACARONI PUDDING.

1301. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 oz. of macaroni, 2 pints of milk, the rind of
1/2 lemon, 3 eggs, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of
brandy.

_Mode_.--Put the macaroni, with a pint of the milk, into a saucepan with
the lemon-peel, and let it simmer gently until the macaroni is tender;
then put it into a pie-dish without the peel; mix the other pint of milk
with the eggs; stir these well together, adding the sugar and brandy,
and pour the mixture over the macaroni. Grate a little nutmeg over the
top, and bake in a moderate oven for 1/2 hour. To make this pudding look
nice, a paste should be laid round the edges of the dish, and, for
variety, a layer of preserve or marmalade may be placed on the macaroni:
in this case omit the brandy.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to simmer the macaroni; 1/2 hour to bake the pudding.

_Average cost_, 11d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    MACARONI is composed of wheaten flour, flavoured with other
    articles, and worked up with water into a paste, to which, by a
    peculiar process, a tubular or pipe form is given, in order that
    it may cook more readily in hot water. That of smaller diameter
    than macaroni (which is about the thickness of a goose-quill) is
    called _vermicelli_; and when smaller still, _fidelini_. The
    finest is made from the flour of the hard-grained Black-Sea
    wheat. Macaroni is the principal article of food in many parts
    of Italy, particularly Naples, where the best is manufactured,
    and from whence, also, it is exported in considerable
    quantities. In this country, macaroni and vermicelli are
    frequently used in soups.

[Illustration: MACARONI.]

MANNA KROUP PUDDING.

1302. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of manna kroup, 12 bitter almonds,
1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar; mix them with the
manna kroup; pour over these a pint of boiling milk, and let them steep
for about 1/4 hour. When nearly cold, add sugar and the well-beaten
eggs; mix all well together; put the pudding into a buttered dish, and
bake for 1/2 hour.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    MANNA KROUP, SEMORA, or SEMOLINA, are three names given to a
    flour made from ground wheat and rice. The preparation is white
    when it is made only of these materials; the yellow colour which
    it usually has, is produced by a portion of saffron and yolks of
    eggs. Next to vermicelli, this preparation is the most useful
    for thickening either meat or vegetable soups. As a food, it is
    light, nutritious, wholesome, and easily digested. The best
    preparation is brought from Arabia, and, next to that, from
    Italy.

MANSFIELD PUDDING.

1303. INGREDIENTS.--The crumb of 2 rolls, 1 pint of milk, sugar to
taste, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 6 oz. of chopped suet, 2
tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.

_Mode_.--Slice the roll very thin, and pour upon it a pint of boiling
milk; let it remain covered close for 1/4 hour, then beat it up with a
fork, and sweeten with moist sugar; stir in the chopped suet, flour,
currants, and nutmeg. Mix these ingredients well together, moisten with
the eggs, brandy, and cream; beat the mixture for 2 or 3 minutes, put it
into a buttered dish or mould, and bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/4
hour. Turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.

1304. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered lump sugar, 4
eggs, puff-paste, a layer of any kind of jam.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the powdered sugar, whisk
the eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When these are well
mixed, line a dish with puff-paste, spread over a layer of any kind of
jam that may be preferred, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding for
rather more than 1/2 hour.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI PUDDING.

1305. INGREDIENTS.--1 breakfastcupful of vermicelli, 2 tablespoonfuls of
marmalade, 1/4 lb. of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, milk.

_Mode_.--Pour some boiling milk on the vermicelli, and let it remain
covered for 10 minutes; then mix with it the marmalade, stoned raisins,
sugar, and beaten eggs. Stir all well together, put the mixture into a
buttered mould, boil for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with custard sauce.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_. 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve with Roast Meat, in Soup, with Salad, &c.

(_German Recipe_.)

1306. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of beef marrow, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2
penny rolls, 1 teaspoonful of minced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced
parsley, salt and grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--Beat the marrow and butter together to a cream; well whisk the
eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When they are well
stirred, put in the rolls, which should previously be well soaked in
boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. Add the remaining
ingredients, omitting the minced onion where the flavour is very much
disliked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop these
into boiling broth, and let them simmer for about 20 minutes or 1/2
hour. They may be served in soup, with roast meat, or with salad, as in
Germany, where they are more frequently sent to table than in this
country. They are very good.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BAKED OB BOILED MARROW PUDDING.

1307. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 oz.
of marrow, 4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. of each;
sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling, pour it hot on to the bread crumbs, and
let these remain covered for about 1/2 hour; shred the marrow, beat up
the eggs, and mix these with the bread crumbs; add the remaining
ingredients, beat the mixture well, and either put it into a buttered
mould and boil it for 2-1/2 hours, or put it into a pie-dish edged with
puff-paste, and bake for rather more than 3/4 hour. Before sending it to
table, sift a little pounded sugar over, after being turned out of the
mould or basin.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to boil, 3/4 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


MILITARY PUDDINGS.

1308. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of
moist sugar, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely, mix it with the bread crumbs and sugar,
and mince the lemon-rind and strain the juice; stir these into the other
ingredients, mix well, and put the mixture into small buttered cups, and
bake for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn them out on the dish, and serve
with lemon-sauce. The above ingredients may be made into small balls,
and boiled for about 1/2 hour; they should then be served with the same
sauce as when baked.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 moderate-sized cups. _Seasonable_ at any
time.


MINCEMEAT.

1309. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of raisins, 3 lbs. of currants, 1-1/2 lb. of
lean beef, 3 lbs. of beef suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of citron,
2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 2 oz. of candied orange-peel, 1 small
nutmeg, 1 pottle of apples, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, 1/2
pint of brandy.

_Mode_.--Stone and _cut_ the raisins once or twice across, but do not
chop them; wash, dry, and pick the currants free from stalks and grit,
and mince the beef and suet, taking care that the latter is chopped very
fine; slice the citron and candied peel, grate the nutmeg, and pare,
core, and mince the apples; mince the lemon-peel, strain the juice, and
when all the ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together,
adding the brandy when the other things are well blended; press the
whole into a jar, carefully exclude the air, and the mincemeat will be
ready for use in a fortnight.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 8s.

_Seasonable_.--Make this about the beginning of December.


EXCELLENT MINCEMEAT.

1310. INGREDIENTS.--3 large lemons, 3 large apples, 1 lb. of stoned
raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 1 oz.
of sliced candied citron, 1 oz. of sliced candied orange-peel, and the
same quantity of lemon-peel, 1 teacupful of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of
orange marmalade.

_Mode_.--Grate the rinds of the lemons; squeeze out the juice, strain
it, and boil the remainder of the lemons until tender enough to pulp or
chop very finely. Then add to this pulp the apples, which should be
baked, and their skins and cores removed; put in the remaining
ingredients one by one, and, as they are added, mix everything very
thoroughly together. Put the mincemeat into a stone jar with a
closely-fitting lid, and in a fortnight it will be ready for use.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made the first or second week in December.


MINCE PIES.

1311. INGREDIENTS.--Good puff-paste No. 1205, mincemeat No. 1309.

[Illustration: MINCE PIES.]

_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out to
the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and line some good-sized pattypans with
it; fill them with mincemeat, cover with the paste, and cut it off all
round close to the edge of the tin. Put the pies into a brisk oven, to
draw the paste up, and bake for 25 minutes, or longer, should the pies
be very large; brush them over with the white of an egg, beaten with the
blade of a knife to a stiff froth; sprinkle over pounded sugar, and put
them into the oven for a minute or two, to dry the egg; dish the pies on
a white d'oyley, and serve hot. They may be merely sprinkled with
pounded sugar instead of being glazed, when that mode is preferred. To
re-warm them, put the pies on the pattypans, and let them remain in the
oven for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour, and they will be almost as good as if
freshly made.

_Time_.--25 to 30 minutes; 10 minutes to re-warm them.

_Average cost_, 4d. each.

_Sufficient_--1/2 lb. of paste for 4 pies. _Seasonable_ at Christmas
time.


MONDAY'S PUDDING.

1312. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold plum-pudding, brandy, custard
made with 5 eggs to every pint of milk.

_Mode_.--Cut the remains of a _good_ cold plum-pudding into
finger-pieces, soak them in a little brandy, and lay them cross-barred
in a mould until full. Make a custard with the above proportion of milk
and eggs, flavouring it with nutmeg or lemon-rind; fill up the mould
with it; tie it down with a cloth, and boil or steam it for an hour.
Serve with a little of the custard poured over, to which has been added
a tablespoonful of brandy.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the pudding, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


NESSELRODE PUDDING. (_A fashionable iced pudding--Carême's Recipe_.)

1313. INGREDIENTS.--40 chestnuts, 1 lb. of sugar, flavouring of vanilla,
1 pint of cream, the yolks of 12 eggs, 1 glass of Maraschino, 1 oz. of
candied citron, 2 oz. of currants, 2 oz. of stoned raisins, 1/2 pint of
whipped cream, 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Blanch the chestnuts in boiling water, remove the husks, and
pound them in a mortar until perfectly smooth, adding a few spoonfuls of
syrup. Then rub them through a fine sieve, and mix them in a basin with
a pint of syrup made from 1 lb. of sugar, clarified, and flavoured with
vanilla, 1 pint of cream, and the yolks of 12 eggs. Set this mixture
over a slow fire, stirring it _without ceasing_, and just as it begins
to boil, take it off and pass it through a tammy. When it is cold, put
it into a freezing-pot, adding the Maraschino, and make the mixture set;
then add the sliced citron, the currants, and stoned raisins (these two
latter should be soaked the day previously in Maraschino and sugar
pounded with vanilla); the whole thus mingled, add a plateful of whipped
cream mixed with the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth with a little
syrup. When the pudding is perfectly frozen, put it into a
pineapple-shaped mould; close the lid, place it again in the
freezing-pan, covered over with pounded ice and saltpetre, and let it
remain until required for table; then turn the pudding out, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.


BAKED ORANGE PUDDING.

1314. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of stale sponge cake or bruised ratafias, 6
oranges, 1 pint of milk, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Bruise the sponge cake or ratafias into fine crumbs, and pour
upon them the milk, which should be boiling. Rub the rinds of 2 of the
oranges on sugar, and add this, with the juice of the remainder, to the
other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, stir them in, sweeten to taste, and
put the mixture into a pie-dish previously lined with puff-paste. Bake
for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted
sugar over, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ from November to May.

[Illustration: ORANGE.]

    ORANGE (_Citrus Aurantium_).--The principal varieties are the
    sweet, or China orange, and the bitter, or Seville orange; the
    Maltese is also worthy of notice, from its red blood-like pulp.
    The orange is extensively cultivated in the south of Europe, and
    in Devonshire, on walls with a south aspect, it bears an
    abundance of fruit. So great is the increase in the demand for
    the orange, and so ample the supply, that it promises to rival
    the apple in its popularity. The orange-tree is considered young
    at the age of a hundred years. The pulp of the orange consists
    of a collection of oblong vesicles filled with a sugary and
    refreshing juice. The orange blossom is proverbially chosen for
    the bridal wreath, and, from the same flower, an essential oil
    is extracted hardly less esteemed than the celebrated ottar of
    roses. Of all marmalades, that made from the Seville orange is
    the best. The peel and juice of the orange are much used in
    culinary preparations. From oranges are made preserves,
    comfitures, jellies, glacés, sherbet, liqueurs, and syrups. The
    juice of the orange in a glass _d'eau sucrée_ makes a refreshing
    and wholesome drink. From the clarified pulp of the orange the
    French make a delicious jelly, which they serve in small pots,
    and call _crême_. The rasped peel of the orange is used in
    several sweet _entremets_, to which it communicates its perfume.
    The confectioner manufactures a variety of dainties from all
    parts of the orange. Confections of orange-peel are excellent
    tonics and stomachics. Persons with delicate stomachs should
    abstain from oranges at dessert, because their acidity is likely
    to derange the digestive organs.

SMALL DISHES OF PASTRY FOR ENTREMETS, SUPPER-DISHES, &c.

FANCHONNETTES, or CUSTARD TARTLETS.

1315. INGREDIENTS.--For the custard, 4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, 2 oz. of
butter, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 3 dessertspoonfuls of flour, flavouring
to taste; the whites of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Well beat the eggs; stir to them the milk, the butter, which
should be beaten to a cream, the sugar, and flour; mix these ingredients
well together, put them into a very clean saucepan, and bring them to
the simmering point, but do not allow them to boil. Flavour with essence
of vanilla, bitter almonds, lemon, grated chocolate, or any flavouring
ingredient that may be preferred. Line some round tartlet-pans with good
puff-paste; fill them with the custard, and bake in a moderate oven for
about 20 minutes; then take them out of the pans; let them cool, and in
the mean time whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; stir into
this the pounded sugar, and spread smoothly over the tartlets a little
of this mixture. Put them in the oven again to set the icing, but be
particular that they do not scorch: when the icing looks crisp, they are
done. Arrange them, piled high in the centre, on a white napkin, and
garnish the dish, and in between the tartlets, with strips of bright
jelly, or very firmly-made preserve.

_Time_.--20 minutes to bake the tartlets; 5 minutes after being iced.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the paste, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to fill 10 or 12 tartlets.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The icing may be omitted on the top of the tartlets, and a
spoonful of any kind of preserve put at the bottom of the custard
instead: this varies both the flavour and appearance of this dish.


ALMOND FLOWERS.

1316. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1205; to every 1/2 lb. of paste allow
3 oz. of almonds, sifted sugar, the white of an egg.

_Mode_.--Roll the paste out to the thickness of 1/4 inch, and, with a
round fluted cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required. Work
the paste up again, roll it out, and, with a smaller cutter, stamp out
some pieces the size of a shilling. Brush the larger pieces over with
the white of an egg, and place one of the smaller pieces on each. Blanch
and cut the almonds into strips lengthwise; press them slanting into the
paste closely round the rings; and when they are all completed, sift
over some pounded sugar, and bake for about 1/4 hour or 20 minutes.
Garnish between the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and place in the
centre of the ring a small quantity of strawberry jam; pile them high on
the dish, and serve.

_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes.

_Sufficient_.--18 or 20 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


FLUTED ROLLS.

1317. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, the white of an egg, sifted sugar, jelly
or preserve.

_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205 (trimmings answer
very well for little dishes of this sort); roll it out to the thickness
of 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, stamp out as many
round pieces as may be required; brush over the upper side with the
white of an egg; roll up the pieces, pressing the paste lightly together
where it joins; place the rolls on a baking-sheet, and bake for about
1/4 hour. A few minutes before they are done, brush them over with the
white of an egg; strew over sifted sugar, put them back in the oven; and
when the icing is firm and of a pale brown colour, they are done. Place
a strip of jelly or preserve across each roll, dish them high on a
napkin, and serve cold.

_Time_.--1/4 hour before being iced; 5 to 10 minutes after.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste for 2 dishes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


PASTRY SANDWICHES.

1318. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, jam of any kind, the white of an egg,
sifted sugar.

_Mode_.--Roll the paste out thin; put half of it on a baking-sheet or
tin, and spread equally over it apricot, greengage, or any preserve that
may be preferred. Lay over this preserve another thin paste; press the
edges together all round; and mark the paste in lines with a knife on
the surface, to show where to cut it when baked. Bake from 20 minutes to
1/2 hour; and, a short time before being done, take the pastry out of
the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg, sift over pounded
sugar, and put it back in the oven to colour. When cold, cut it into
strips; pile these on a dish pyramidically, and serve. These strips, cut
about 2 inches long, piled in circular rows, and a plateful of flavoured
whipped cream poured in the middle, make a very pretty dish.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1 hour. _Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of paste,
1s.

_Sufficient_.--1/2 lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of sandwiches.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

PETITES BOUCHEES.

1319. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar,
the rind of 1/2 lemon, the white of 1 egg, puff-paste.

_Mode_.--Blanch the almonds, and chop them fine; rub the sugar on the
lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar; mix this with the almonds and the
white of the egg. Roll some puff-paste out; cut it in any shape that may
be preferred, such as diamonds, rings, ovals, &c., and spread the above
mixture over the paste. Bake the bouchées in an oven, not too hot, and
serve cold.

_Time_.--1/4 hour, or rather more. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 1/2 lb. of puff-paste. _Seasonable_ at any time.


POLISH TARTLETS.

1320. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, the white of an egg, pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Roll some good puff-paste out thin, and cut it into 2-1/2-inch
squares; brush each square over with the white of an egg, then fold down
the corners, so that they all meet in the middle of each piece of paste;
slightly press the two pieces together, brush them over with the egg,
sift over sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for about 1/4 hour. When
they are done, make a little hole in the middle of the paste, and fill
it up with apricot jam, marmalade, or red-currant jelly. Pile them high
in the centre of a dish, on a napkin, and garnish with the same preserve
the tartlets are filled with.

_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of puff-paste, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 2 dishes of pastry.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--It should be borne in mind, that, for all dishes of small
pastry, such as the preceding, trimmings of puff-pasty, left from larger
tarts, answer as well as making the paste expressly.


PUITS d'AMOUR, or PUFF-PASTE RINGS.

1321. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1205, the white of an egg, sifted
loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out to
the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter,
stamp out as many pieces as may be required; then work the paste up
again, and roll it out to the same thickness, and with a smaller cutter,
stamp out sufficient pieces to correspond with the larger ones. Again
stamp out the centre of these smaller rings; brush over the others with
the white of an egg, place a small ring on the top of every large
circular piece of paste, egg over the tops, and bake from 15 to 20
minutes. Sift over sugar, put them back in the oven to colour them; then
fill the rings with preserve of any bright colour. Dish them high on a
napkin, and serve. So many pretty dishes of pastry may be made by
stamping puff-paste out with fancy cutters, and filling the pieces, when
baked, with jelly or preserve, that our space will not allow us to give
a separate recipe for each of them; but, as they are all made from one
paste, and only the shape and garnishing varied, perhaps it is not
necessary, and by exercising a little ingenuity, variety may always be
obtained. Half-moons, leaves, diamonds, stars, shamrocks, rings, etc.,
are the most appropriate shapes for fancy pastry.

_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 2 dishes of pastry.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


PARADISE PUDDING.

1322. INGREDIENTS.--3 eggs, 3 apples, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 oz. of
sugar, 3 oz. of currants, salt and grated nutmeg to taste, the rind of
1/2 lemon, 1/2 wineglassful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and mince the apples into small pieces, and mix
them with the other dry ingredients; beat up the eggs, moisten the
mixture with these, and beat it well; stir in the brandy, and put the
pudding into a buttered mould; tie it down with a cloth, boil for 1-1/2
hour, and serve with sweet sauce.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.


PEASE PUDDING.

1323. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of split peas, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,
pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the peas to soak over-night, in rain-water, and float off
any that are wormeaten or discoloured. Tie them loosely in a clean
cloth, leaving a little room for them to swell, and put them on to boil
in cold rain-water, allowing 2-1/2 hours after the water has simmered
up. When the peas are tender, take them up and drain; rub them through a
colander with a wooden spoon; add the butter, eggs, pepper, and salt;
beat all well together for a few minutes, until the ingredients are well
incorporated; then tie them tightly in a floured cloth; boil the pudding
for another hour, turn it on to the dish, and serve very hot. This
pudding should always be sent to table with boiled leg of pork, and is
an exceedingly nice accompaniment to boiled beef.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to boil the peas, tied loosely in the cloth; 1 hour
for the pudding.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.


BAKED PLUM-PUDDING.

1324. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of
raisins, 1 lb. of suet, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, a few slices of candied
peel.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, currants, stoned
raisins, and candied peel; moisten with the well-beaten eggs, and add
sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of very thick
batter. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake in a good oven from 2-1/4
to 2-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. For a
very plain pudding, use only half the quantity of fruit, omit the eggs,
and substitute milk or water for them. The above ingredients make a
large family pudding; for a small one, half the quantity would be found
ample; but it must be baked quite 1-1/2 hour.

_Time_.--Large pudding, 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 hours; half the size, 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

[Illustration: RAISIN-GRAPE.]

    RAISIN GRAPE.--All the kinds of raisins have much the same
    virtues; they are nutritive and balsamic, but they are very
    subject to fermentation with juices of any kind; and hence, when
    eaten immoderately, they often bring on colics. There are many
    varieties of grape used for raisins; the fruit of Valencia is
    that mostly dried for culinary purposes, whilst most of the
    table kinds are grown in Malaga, and called Muscatels. The
    finest of all table raisins come from Provence or Italy; the
    most esteemed of all are those of Roquevaire; they are very
    large and very sweet. This sort is rarely eaten by any but the
    most wealthy. The dried Malaga, or Muscatel raisins, which come
    to this country packed in small boxes, and nicely preserved in
    bunches, are variable in their quality, but mostly of a rich
    flavour, when new, juicy, and of a deep purple hue.

AN EXCELLENT PLUM-PUDDING, made without Eggs.

1325. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of raisins, 6 oz. of
currants, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. of
mashed carrot, 1/4 lb. of mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful of treacle, 1
oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of candied citron.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour, currants, suet, and sugar well together; have
ready the above proportions of mashed carrot and potato, which stir into
the other ingredients; add the treacle and lemon-peel; but put no liquid
in the mixture, or it will be spoiled. Tie it loosely in a cloth, or, if
put in a basin, do not quite fill it, as the pudding should have room to
swell, and boil it for 4 hours. Serve with brandy-sauce. This pudding is
better for being mixed over-night.

_Time_.--4 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.


AN UNRIVALLED PLUM-PUDDING.

1326. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of muscatel raisins, 1-3/4 lb. of
currants, 1 lb. of sultana raisins, 2 lbs. of the finest moist sugar, 2
lbs. of bread crumbs, 16 eggs, 2 lbs. of finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of
mixed candied peel, the rind of 2 lemons, 1 oz. of ground nutmeg, 1 oz.
of ground cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of pounded bitter almonds, 1/4 pint of
brandy.

_Mode_.--Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them; wash and
dry the currants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices. Mix all the
dry ingredients well together, and moisten with the eggs, which should
be well beaten and strained, to the pudding; stir in the brandy, and,
when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a stout new
pudding-cloth; put in the pudding, tie it down very tightly and closely,
boil from 6 to 8 hours, and serve with brandy-sauce. A few sweet
almonds, blanched and cut in strips, and stuck on the pudding, ornament
it prettily. This quantity may be divided and boiled in buttered moulds.
For small families this is the most desirable way, as the above will be
found to make a pudding of rather large dimensions.

_Time_.--6 to 8 hours. _Average cost_, 7s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_ for 12 or 14 persons.

_Note_.--The muscatel raisins can be purchased at a cheap rate loose
(not in bunches): they are then scarcely higher in price than the
ordinary raisins, and impart a much richer flavour to the pudding.

[Illustration:  SULTANA GRAPE.]

    SULTANA GRAPE.--We have elsewhere stated that the small black
    grape grown in Corinth and the Ionian Isles is, when dried, the
    common currant of the grocers' shops; the white or yellow grape,
    grown in the same places, is somewhat larger than the black
    variety, and is that which produces the Sultana raisin. It has
    been called Sultana from its delicate qualities and unique
    growth: the finest are those of Smyrna. They have not sufficient
    flavour and sugary properties to serve alone for puddings and
    cakes, but they are peculiarly valuable for mixing, that is to
    say, for introducing in company with the richer sorts of
    Valencias or Muscatels. In white puddings, or cakes, too, where
    the whiteness must be preserved, the Sultana raisin should be
    used. But the greatest value of this fruit in the _cuisine_ is
    that of its saving labour; for it has no stones. Half Muscatels
    and half Sultanas are an admirable mixture for general purposes.

A PLAIN CHRISTMAS PUDDING FOR CHILDREN.

1327. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of
stoned raisins, 3/4 lb. of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, milk,
2 oz. of candied peel, 1 teaspoonful of powdered allspice, 1/2
saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Let the suet be finely chopped, the raisins stoned, and the
currants well washed, picked, and dried. Mix these with the other dry
ingredients, and stir all well together; beat and strain the eggs to the
pudding, stir these in, and add just sufficient milk to make it mix
properly. Tie it up in a well-floured cloth, put it into boiling water,
and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve with a sprig of holly placed in the
middle of the pudding, and a little pounded sugar sprinkled over it.

_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 children. _Seasonable_ at Christmas.

    RAISINS.--Raisins are grapes, prepared by suffering them to
    remain on the vine until they are perfectly ripe, and then
    drying them in the sun or by the heat of an oven. The sun-dried
    grapes are sweet, the oven-dried of an acid flavour. The common
    way of drying grapes for raisins is to tie two or three bunches
    of them together, whilst yet on the vine, and dip them into a
    hot lixivium of wood-ashes mixed with a little of the oil of
    olives: this disposes them to shrink and wrinkle, after which
    they are left on the vine three or four days, separated, on
    sticks in a horizontal situation, and then dried in the sun at
    leisure, after being cut from the tree.

CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING.

(_Very Good_.)

1328. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb.
of mixed peel, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of suet, 8 eggs, 1
wineglassful of brandy.

[Illustration: CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING IN MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Stone and cut the raisins in halves, but do not chop them;
wash, pick, and dry the currants, and mince the suet finely; cut the
candied peel into thin slices, and grate down the bread into fine
crumbs. When all these dry ingredients are prepared, mix them well
together; then moisten the mixture with the eggs, which should be well
beaten, and the brandy; stir well, that everything may be very
thoroughly blended, and _press_ the pudding into a buttered mould; tie
it down tightly with a floured cloth, and boil for 5 or 6 hours. It may
be boiled in a cloth without a mould, and will require the same time
allowed for cooking. As Christmas puddings are usually made a few days
before they are required for table, when the pudding is taken out of the
pot, hang it up immediately, and put a plate or saucer underneath to
catch the water that may drain from it. The day it is to be eaten,
plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling for at least 2 hours;
then turn it out of the mould, and serve with brandy-sauce. On
Christmas-day a sprig of holly is usually placed in the middle of the
pudding, and about a wineglassful of brandy poured round it, which, at
the moment of serving, is lighted, and the pudding thus brought to table
encircled in flame.

_Time_.--5 or 6 hours the first time of boiling; 2 hours the day it is
to be served.

_Average cost_, 4s.

_Sufficient_ for a quart mould for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ on the 25th of December, and on various festive occasions
till March.

_Note_.--Five or six of these puddings should be made at one time, as
they will keep good for many weeks, and in cases where unexpected guests
arrive, will be found an acceptable, and, as it only requires warming
through, a quickly-prepared dish. Moulds of every shape and size are
manufactured for these puddings, and may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J.
Slack, 336, Strand.

    BRANDY is the alcoholic or spirituous portion of wine, separated
    from the aqueous part, the colouring matter, &c., by
    distillation. The word is of German origin, and in its German
    form, _brantuein_, signifies burnt wine, or wine that has
    undergone the action of fire; brandies, so called, however, have
    been made from potatoes, carrots, beetroot, pears, and other
    vegetable substances; but they are all inferior to true brandy.
    Brandy is prepared in most wine countries, but that of France is
    the most esteemed. It is procured not only by distilling the
    wine itself, but also by fermenting and distilling the _marc_,
    or residue of the pressings of the grape. It is procured
    indifferently from red or white wine, and different wines yield
    very different proportions of it, the strongest, of course,
    giving the largest quantity. Brandy obtained from marc has a
    more acrid taste than that from wine. The celebrated brandy of
    Cognac, a town in the department of Charente, and that brought
    from Andraye, seem to owe their excellence from being made from
    white wine. Like other spirit, brandy is colourless when
    recently distilled; by mere keeping, however, owing, probably,
    to some change in the soluble matter contained in it, it
    acquires a slight colour, which is much increased by keeping in
    casks, and is made of the required intensity by the addition of
    burnt sugar or other colouring matter. What is called _British
    brandy_ is not, in fact, brandy, which is the name, as we have
    said, of a spirit distilled from _wine;_ but is a spirit made
    chiefly from malt spirit, with the addition of mineral acids and
    various flavouring ingredients, the exact composition being kept
    secret. It is distilled somewhat extensively in this country;
    real brandy scarcely at all. The brandies imported into England
    are chiefly from Bordeaux, Rochelle, and Cognac.

A POUND PLUM-PUDDING.

1329. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of stoned
raisins, 8 eggs, 1/2 grated nutmeg, 2 oz. of sliced candied peel, 1
teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of flour,
1/2 pint of milk.

[Illustration: BAKED PUDDING OR CAKE-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the dry ingredients; stir
these well together, and add the well-beaten eggs and milk to moisten
with. Beat up the mixture well, and should the above proportion of milk
not be found sufficient to make it of the proper consistency, a little
more should be added. Press the pudding into a mould, tie it in a
floured cloth, and boil for 5 hours, or rather longer, and serve with
brandy-sauce.

_Time_.--5 hours, or longer. _Average cost_, 3s.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter.

_Note_.--The above pudding may be baked instead of boiled; it should be
put into a buttered mould or tin, and baked for about 2 hours; a smaller
one would take about 1-1/4 hour.

    CITRON.--The fruit of the citron-tree (_Citrus medica_) is
    acidulous, antiseptic, and antiscorbutic: it excites the
    appetite, and stops vomiting, and, like lemon-juice, has been
    greatly extolled in chronic rheumatism, gout, and scurvy. Mixed
    with cordials, it is used as an antidote to the _machineel
    poison_. The candied peel is prepared in the same manner as
    orange or lemon-peel; that is to say, the peel is boiled in
    water until quite soft, and then suspended in concentrated syrup
    (in the cold), after which it is either dried in a current of
    warm air, or in a stove, at a heat not exceeding 120°
    Fahrenheit. The syrup must be kept fully saturated with sugar by
    reboiling it once or twice during the process. It may be dusted
    with powdered lump sugar, if necessary. The citron is supposed
    to be the Median, Assyrian, or Persian apple of the Greeks. It
    is described by Risso as having a majestic appearance, its
    shining leaves and rosy flowers being succeeded by fruit whose
    beauty and size astonish the observer, whilst their odour
    gratifies his senses. In China there is an enormous variety, but
    the citron is cultivated in all orange-growing countries.

PLUM-PUDDING OF FRESH FRUIT.

1330. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1-1/2 pint of Orleans or
any other kind of plum, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.

_Mode_.--Line a pudding-basin with suet crust rolled out to the
thickness of about 1/2 inch; fill the basin with the fruit, put in the
sugar, and cover with crust. Fold the edges over, and pinch them
together, to prevent the juice escaping. Tie over a floured cloth, put
the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn it
out of the basin, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--2 to 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of August
to the beginning of October.

[Illustration: PLUM.]

    PLUMS.--Almost all the varieties of the cultivated plum are
    agreeable and refreshing: it is not a nourishing fruit, and if
    indulged in to excess, when unripe, is almost certain to cause
    diarrhoea and cholera. Weak and delicate persons had better
    abstain from plums altogether. The modes of preparing plums are
    as numerous as the varieties of the fruit. The objections raised
    against raw plums do not apply to the cooked fruit, which even
    the invalid may eat in moderation.

PLUM TART.

1331. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of good short crust No. 1211, 1-1/2 pint of
plums, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.

[Illustration: PLUM TART.]

_Mode_.--Line the edges of a deep tart-dish with crust made by recipe
No. 1211; fill the dish with plums, and place a small cup or jar, upside
down, in the midst of them. Put in the sugar, cover the pie with crust,
ornament the edges, and bake in a good oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. When
puff-crust is preferred to short crust, use that made by recipe No.
1206, and glaze the top by brushing it over with the white of an egg
beaten to a stiff froth with a knife; sprinkle over a little sifted
sugar, and put the pie in the oven to set the glaze.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of August
to the beginning of October.


POTATO PASTY.

1332. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak or mutton cutlets, pepper
and salt to taste, 1/3 pint of weak broth or gravy, 1 oz. of butter,
mashed potatoes.

[Illustration: POTATO-PASTY PAN.]

_Mode_.--Place the meat, cut in small pieces, at the bottom of the pan;
season it with pepper and salt, and add the gravy and butter broken,
into small pieces. Put on the perforated plate, with its valve-pipe
screwed on, and fill up the whole space to the top of the tube with
nicely-mashed potatoes mixed with a little milk, and finish the surface
of them in any ornamental manner. If carefully baked, the potatoes will
be covered with a delicate brown crust, retaining all the savoury steam
rising from the meat. Send it to table as it comes from the oven, with a
napkin folded round it.

_Time_.--40 to 60 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


POTATO PUDDING.

1333. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of mashed potatoes, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,
1/4 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt,
the juice and rind of 1 small lemon, 2 oz. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Boil sufficient potatoes to make 1/2 lb. when mashed; add to
these the butter, eggs, milk, sherry, lemon-juice, and sugar; mince the
lemon-peel very finely, and beat all the ingredients well together. Put
the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for rather more than 1/2
hour. To enrich it, add a few pounded almonds, and increase the quantity
of eggs and butter.

_Time_.--1/2 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO ICE OR GLAZE PASTRY.

1334. To glaze pastry, which is the usual method adopted for meat or
raised pies, break an egg, separate the yolk from the white, and beat
the former for a short time. Then, when the pastry is nearly baked, take
it out of the oven, brush it over with this beaten yolk of egg, and put
it back in the oven to set the glaze.

1335. To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for fruit tarts
and sweet dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg on a plate, and with
the blade of a knife beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry is nearly
baked, brush it over with this, and sift over some pounded sugar; put it
back into the oven to set the glaze, and, in a few minutes, it will be
done. Great care should be taken that the paste does not catch or burn
in the oven, which it is very liable to do after the icing is laid on.

_Sufficient_--Allow 1 egg and 1-1/8 oz. of sugar to glaze 3 tarts.

[Illustration: SUGAR CANES.]

    SUGAR has been happily called "the honey of reeds." The
    sugar-cane appears to be originally a native of the East Indies.
    The Chinese have cultivated it for 2,000 years. The Egyptians,
    Phoenicians, and Jews knew nothing about it. The Greek
    physicians are the first who speak of it. It was not till the
    year 1471 that a Venetian discovered the method of purifying
    brown sugar and making loaf sugar. He gained an immense fortune
    by this discovery. Our supplies are now obtained from Barbadoes,
    Jamaica, Mauritius, Ceylon, the East and West Indies generally,
    and the United States; but the largest supplies come from Cuba.
    Sugar is divided into the following classes:--Refined sugar,
    white clayed, brown clayed, brown raw, and molasses. The
    sugarcane grows to the height of six, twelve, or even sometimes
    twenty feet. It is propagated from cuttings, requires much
    hoeing and weeding, giving employment to thousands upon
    thousands of slaves in the slave countries, and attains maturity
    in twelve or thirteen months. When ripe, it is cut down close to
    the stole, the stems are divided into lengths of about three
    feet, which are made up into bundles, and carried to the mill,
    to be crushed between rollers. In the process of crushing, the
    juice runs down into a reservoir, from which, after a while, it
    is drawn through a siphon; that is to say, the clear fluid is
    taken from the scum. This fluid undergoes several processes of
    drying and refining; the methods varying in different
    manufactories. There are some large establishments engaged in
    sugar-refining in the neighbourhoods of Blackwall and Bethnal
    Green, London. The process is mostly in the hands of German
    workmen. Sugar is adulterated with fine sand and sawdust. Pure
    sugar is highly nutritious, adding to the fatty tissue of the
    body; but it is not easy of digestion.

BAKED RAISIN PUDDING.

(_Plain and Economical_.)

1336. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb. of
suet, a pinch of salt, 1 oz. of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, milk.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; stone the raisins and cut them in halves;
mix these with the suet, add the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and
moisten the whole with sufficient milk to make it of the consistency of
thick batter. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for
1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. Turn it out of the dish, strew sifted
sugar over, and serve. This is a very plain recipe, and suitable where
there is a family of children. It, of course, can be much improved by
the addition of candied peel, currants, and rather a larger proportion
of suet: a few eggs would also make the pudding richer.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter.

    INTRODUCTION OF SUGAR.--Sugar was first known as a drug, and
    used by the apothecaries, and with them was a most important
    article. At its first appearance, some said it was heating;
    others, that it injured the chest; others, that it disposed
    persons to apoplexy; the truth, however, soon conquered these
    fancies, and the use of sugar has increased every day, and there
    is no household in the civilized world which can do without it.

BOILED RAISIN PUDDING.

(_Plain and Economical_.)

1337. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb.
of chopped suet, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, milk.

_Mode_.--After having stoned the raisins and chopped the suet finely,
mix them with the flour, add the salt, and when these dry ingredients
are thoroughly mixed, moisten the pudding with sufficient milk to make
it into rather a stiff paste. Tie it up in a floured cloth, put it into
boiling water, and boil for 4 hours: serve with sifted sugar. This
pudding may, also, be made in a long shape, the same as a rolled
jam-pudding, and will then not require so long boiling;--2-1/2 hours
would then be quite sufficient.

_Time_.--Made round, 4 hours; in a long shape, 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter.


BOILED RHUBARB PUDDING.

1338. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 sticks of fine rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of moist
sugar, 3/4 lb. of suet-crust No. 1215.

_Mode_.--Make a suet-crust with 3/4 lb. of flour, by recipe No. 1215,
and line a buttered basin with it. Wash and wipe the rhubarb, and, if
old, string it--that is to say, pare off the outside skin. Cut it into
inch lengths, fill the basin with it, put in the sugar, and cover with
crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tie over it a floured
cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn
it out of the basin, and serve with a jug of cream and sifted sugar.

_Time_.--2 to 2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ in spring.


RHUBARB TART.

1339. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, about 5 sticks of
large rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.

_Mode_.--Make a puff-crust by recipe No. 1206; line the edges of a deep
pie-dish with it, and wash, wipe, and cut the rhubarb into pieces about
1 inch long. Should it be old and tough, string it, that is to say, pare
off the outside skin. Pile the fruit high in the dish, as it shrinks
very much in the cooking; put in the sugar, cover with crust, ornament
the edges, and bake the tart in a well-heated oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour.
If wanted very nice, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a
stiff froth, then sprinkle on it some sifted sugar, and put it in the
oven just to set the glaze: this should be done when the tart is nearly
baked. A small quantity of lemon-juice, and a little of the peel minced,
are by many persons considered an improvement to the flavour of rhubarb
tart.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in spring.

[Illustration: RHUBARB.]

    RHUBARB.--This is one of the most useful of all garden
    productions that are put into pies and puddings. It was
    comparatively little known till within the last twenty or thirty
    years, but it is now cultivated in almost every British garden.
    The part used is the footstalks of the leaves, which, peeled and
    cut into small pieces, are put into tarts, either mixed with
    apples or alone. When quite young, they are much better not
    peeled. Rhubarb comes in season when apples are going out. The
    common rhubarb is a native of Asia; the scarlet variety has the
    finest flavour. Turkey rhubarb, the well-known medicinal drug,
    is the root of a very elegant plant (_Rheum palmatum_), coming
    to greatest perfection in Tartary. For culinary purposes, all
    kinds of rhubarb are the better for being blanched.

RAISED PIE OF POULTRY OR GAME.

1340. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2
pint of water, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt (these are
for the crust); 1 large fowl or pheasant, a few slices of veal cutlet, a
few slices of dressed ham, forcemeat, seasoning of nutmeg, allspice,
pepper and salt, gravy.

[Illustration: RAISED PIE.]

_Mode_.--Make a stiff short crust with the above proportion of butter,
flour, water, and eggs, and work it up very smoothly; butter a
raised-pie mould, as shown in No. 1190, and line it with the paste.
Previously to making the crust, bone the fowl, or whatever bird is
intended to be used, lay it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and season
the inside well with pounded mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; then
spread over it a layer of forcemeat, then a layer of seasoned veal, and
then one of ham, and then another layer of forcemeat, and roll the fowl
over, making the skin meet at the back. Line the pie with forcemeat, put
in the fowl, and fill up the cavities with slices of seasoned veal and
ham and forcemeat; wet the edges of the pie, put on the cover, pinch the
edges together with the paste-pincers, and decorate it with leaves;
brush it over with beaten yolk of egg, and bake in a moderate oven for 4
hours. In the mean time, make a good strong gravy from the bones, pour
it through a funnel into the hole at the top; cover this hole with a
small leaf, and the pie, when cold, will be ready for use. Let it be
remembered that the gravy must be considerably reduced before it is
poured into the pie, as, when cold, it should form a firm jelly, and not
be the least degree in a liquid state. This recipe is suitable for all
kinds of poultry or game, using one or more birds, according to the size
of the pie intended to be made; but the birds must always be boned.
Truffles, mushrooms, &c., added to this pie, make it much nicer; and, to
enrich it, lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or game with thin strips
of bacon. This method of forming raised pies in a mould is generally
called a _timbale_, and has the advantage of being more easily made than
one where the paste is raised by the hands; the crust, besides, being
eatable. (_See_ coloured plate N 1.) _Time_.--Large pie, 4 hours.
_Average cost_, 6s. 6d.

_Seasonable_, with poultry, all the year; with game, from September to
March.


RAISED PIE OF VEAL AND HAM.

1341. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 lbs. of veal cutlets, a few slices of bacon
or ham, seasoning of pepper, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, forcemeat No.
415, 2 lbs. of hot-water paste No. 1217, 1/2 pint of good strong gravy.

_Mode_.--To raise the crust for a pie with the hands is a very difficult
task, and can only be accomplished by skilled and experienced cooks. The
process should be seen to be satisfactorily learnt, and plenty of
practice given to the making of raised pies, as by that means only will
success be insured. Make a hot-water paste by recipe No. 1217, and from
the mass raise the pie with the hands; if this cannot be accomplished,
cut out pieces for the top and bottom, and a long piece for the sides;
fasten the bottom and side-piece together by means of egg, and pinch the
edges well together; then line the pie with forcemeat made by recipe No.
415, put in a layer of veal, and a plentiful seasoning of salt, pepper,
nutmeg, and allspice, as, let it be remembered, these pies taste very
insipid unless highly seasoned. Over the seasoning place a layer of
sliced bacon or cooked ham, and then a layer of forcemeat, veal
seasoning, and bacon, and so on until the meat rises to about an inch
above the paste; taking care to finish with a layer of forcemeat, to
fill all the cavities of the pie, and to lay in the meat firmly and
compactly. Brush the top edge of the pie with beaten egg, put on the
cover, press the edges, and pinch them round with paste-pincers. Make a
hole in the middle of the lid, and ornament the pie with leaves, which
should be stuck on with the white of an egg; then brush it all over with
the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake the pie in an oven with a soaking
heat from 3 to 4 hours. To ascertain when it is done, run a
sharp-pointed knife or skewer through the hole at the top into the
middle of the pie, and if the meat feels tender, it is sufficiently
baked. Have ready about 1/2 pint of very strong gravy, pour it through a
funnel into the hole at the top, stop up the hole with a small leaf of
baked paste, and put the pie away until wanted for use. Should it
acquire too much colour in the baking, cover it with white paper, as the
crust should not in the least degree be burnt. Mushrooms, truffles, and
many other ingredients, may be added to enrich the flavour of these
pies, and the very fleshy parts of the meat may be larded. These pies
are more frequently served cold than hot, and form excellent dishes for
cold suppers or breakfasts. The cover of the pie is sometimes carefully
removed, leaving the perfect edges, and the top decorated with square
pieces of very bright aspic jelly: this has an exceedingly pretty
effect.

_Time_.--About 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a very large pie. _Seasonable_ from March to October.


BAKED RICE PUDDING.

I.

1342. INGREDIENTS.--1 small teacupful of rice, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 2
oz. of fresh butter, 2 oz. of beef marrow, 1/4 lb. of currants, 2
tablespoonfuls of brandy, nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of sugar, the rind of 1/2
lemon.

_Mode_.--Put the lemon-rind and milk into a stewpan, and let it infuse
till the milk is well flavoured with the lemon; in the mean time, boil
the rice until tender in water, with a very small quantity of salt, and,
when done, let it be thoroughly drained. Beat the eggs, stir to them the
milk, which should be strained, the butter, marrow, currants, and
remaining ingredients; add the rice, and mix all well together. Line the
edges of the dish with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake for
about 3/4 hour in a slow oven. Slices of candied-peel may be added at
pleasure, or Sultana raisins may be substituted for the currants.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter pudding, when fresh fruits are not
obtainable.

    RICE, with proper management in cooking it, forms a very
    valuable and cheap addition to our farinaceous food, and, in
    years of scarcity, has been found eminently useful in lessening
    the consumption of flour. When boiled, it should be so managed
    that the grains, though soft, should be as little broken and as
    dry as possible. The water in which it is dressed should only
    simmer, and not boil hard. Very little water should be used, as
    the grains absorb a great deal, and, consequently, swell much;
    and if they take up too much at first, it is difficult to get
    rid of it. Baking it in puddings is the best mode of preparing
    it.

II.

(_Plain and Economical; a nice Pudding for Children_.)

1343. INGREDIENTS.--1 teacupful of rice, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist
sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 oz. of butter or 2 small tablespoonfuls of
chopped suet, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Wash the rice, put it into a pie-dish with the sugar, pour in
the milk, and stir these ingredients well together; then add the butter
cut up into very small pieces, or, instead of this, the above proportion
of finely-minced suet; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake the
pudding, in a moderate oven, from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. As the rice is not
previously cooked, care must be taken that the pudding be very slowly
baked, to give plenty of time for the rice to swell, and for it to be
very thoroughly done.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 children. _Seasonable_ at any time.

PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING.

1344. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice.

_Mode_.--Wash the rice, tie it in a pudding-cloth, allowing room for the
rice to swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; boil it gently
for 2 hours, and if, after a time, the cloth seems tied too loosely,
take the rice up and tighten the cloth. Serve with sweet melted butter,
or cold butter and sugar, or stewed fruit, jam, or marmalade; any of
which accompaniments are suitable for plain boiled rice.

_Time_.--2 hours after the water boils. _Average cost_, 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BOILED RICE PUDDING.

I.

1345. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of new milk, 2 oz. of
butter, 4 eggs, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 4 large tablespoonfuls of
moist sugar, flavouring to taste.

_Mode_.--Stew the rice very gently in the above proportion of new milk,
and, when it is tender, pour it into a basin; stir in the butter, and
let it stand to cool; then beat the eggs, add these to the rice with the
sugar, salt, and any flavouring that may be approved, such as nutmeg,
powdered cinnamon, grated lemon-peel, essence of bitter almonds, or
vanilla. When all is well stirred, put the pudding into a buttered
basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil
for 1-1/4 hour.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    VARIETIES OF RICE.--Of the varieties of rice brought to our
    market, that from Bengal is chiefly of the species denominated
    _cargo_ rice, and is of a coarse reddish-brown cast, but
    peculiarly sweet and large-grained; it does not readily separate
    from the husk, but it is preferred by the natives to all the
    others. _Patua_ rice is more esteemed in Europe, and is of very
    superior qualify; it is small-grained, rather long and wiry, and
    is remarkably white. The _Carolina_ rice is considered as the
    best, and is likewise the dearest in London.

II.

(_With Dried or Fresh fruit; a nice dish for the Nursery_.)

1346. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 1 pint of any kind of fresh fruit
that may be preferred, or 1/2 lb. of raisins or currants.

_Mode_.--Wash the rice, tie it in a cloth, allowing room for it to
swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; let it boil for an
hour, then take it up, untie the cloth, stir in the fruit, and tie it up
again tolerably tight, and put it into the water for the remainder of
the time. Boil for another hour, or rather longer, and serve with sweet
sauce, if made with dried fruit, and with plain sifted sugar and a
little cream or milk, if made with fresh fruit.

_Time_.--1 hour to boil the rice without the fruit; 1 hour, or longer,
afterwards.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 children. _Seasonable_ at any time.

Note.--This pudding is very good made with apples: they should be pared
cored, and cut into thin slices.


BOILED RICE FOR CURRIES, &c.

1347. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of rice, water, salt.

_Mode_.--Pick, wash, and soak the rice in plenty of cold water; then
have ready a saucepan of boiling water, drop the rice into it, and keep
it boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until it is tender, but not
soft. Take it up, drain it, and put it on a dish before the fire to dry:
do not handle it much with a spoon, but shake it about a little with two
forks, that it may all be equally dried, and strew over a little salt.
It is now ready to serve, and may be heaped lightly on a dish by itself,
or be laid round the dish as a border, with a curry or fricassee in the
centre. Some cooks smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, and then
brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and set it in the oven to colour;
but the rice well boiled, white, dry, and with every grain distinct, is
by far the more preferable mode of dressing it. During the process of
boiling, the rice should be attentively watched, that it be not
overdone, as, if this is the case, it will have a mashed and soft
appearance.

_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes, according to the quality of the rice.

_Average cost_, 3d.

_Sufficient_ for a large dish of curry.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    RICE, in the native rough state, with the husk on, is called
    _paddy_, both in India and America, and it will keep better, and
    for a much longer time, in this state, than after the husk has
    been removed; besides which, prepared rice is apt to become
    dirty from rubbing about in the voyage on board ship, and in the
    warehouses. It is sometimes brought to England in the shape of
    paddy, and the husk detached here. Paddy pays less duty than
    shelled rice.

TO BOIL RICE FOR CURRIES, &c.

(_Soyer's Recipe_.)

1348. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of the best Carolina rice, 2 quarts of water,
1-1/2 oz. of butter, a little salt.

_Mode_.--Wash the rice well in two waters; make 2 quarts of water
boiling, and throw the rice into it; boil it until three-parts done,
then drain it on a sieve. Butter the bottom and sides of a stewpan, put
in the rice, place the lid on tightly, and set it by the side of the
fire until the rice is perfectly tender, occasionally shaking the pan to
prevent its sticking. Prepared thus, every grain should be separate and
white. Either dish it separately, or place it round the curry as a
border.

_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 moderate-sized curries.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BUTTERED RICE.

1349. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. of
butter, sugar to taste, grated nutmeg or pounded cinnamon.

_Mode_.--Wash and pick the rice, drain and put it into a saucepan with
the milk; let it swell gradually, and, when tender, pour off the milk;
stir in the butter, sugar, and nutmeg or cinnamon, and, when the butter
is thoroughly melted, and the whole is quite hot, serve. After the milk
is poured off, be particular that the rice does not burn: to prevent
this, do not cease stirring it.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


RICE was held in great esteem by the ancients: they considered it as a
very beneficial food for the chest; therefore it was recommended in
cases of consumption, and to persons subject to spitting of blood.


SAVOURY CASSEROLE OF RICE.

Or Rice Border, for Ragouts, Fricassees, &c. (an Entree).

1350. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rice, 3 pints of weak stock or broth, 2
slices of fat ham, 1 teaspoonful of salt.

[Illustration: CASSEROLE OF RICE.]

_Mode_.--A casserole of rice, when made in a mould, is not such a
difficult operation as when it is moulded by the hand. It is an elegant
and inexpensive entrée, as the remains of cold fish, flesh, or fowl may
be served as ragoûts, fricassees, &c., inclosed in the casserole. It
requires great nicety in its preparation, the principal thing to attend
to being the boiling of the rice, as, if this is not sufficiently
cooked, the casserole, when moulded, will have a rough appearance, which
would entirely spoil it. After having washed the rice in two or three
waters, drain it well, and put it into a stewpan with the stock, ham,
and salt; cover the pan closely, and let the rice gradually swell over a
slow fire, occasionally stirring, to prevent its sticking. When it is
quite soft, strain it, pick out the pieces of ham, and, with the back of
a large wooden spoon, mash the rice to a perfectly smooth paste. Then
well grease a mould (moulds are made purposely for rice borders), and
turn it upside down for a minute or two, to drain away the fat, should
there be too much; put some rice all round the bottom and sides of it;
place a piece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice; press
it in equally with the spoon, and let it cool. Then dip the mould into
hot water, turn the casserole carefully on to a dish, mark where the lid
is to be formed on the top, by making an incision with the point of a
knife about an inch from the edge all round, and put it into a _very
hot_ oven. Brush it over with a little clarified butter, and bake about
1/2 hour, or rather longer; then carefully remove the lid, which will be
formed by the incision having been made all round, and remove the bread,
in small pieces, with the point of a penknife, being careful not to
injure the casserole. Fill the centre with the ragoût or fricassee,
which should be made thick; put on the cover, glaze it, place it in the
oven to set the glaze, and serve as hot as possible. The casserole
should not be emptied too much, as it is liable to crack from the weight
of whatever is put in; and in baking it, let the oven be very hot, or
the casserole will probably break.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice.

_Sufficient_ for 2 moderate-sized casseroles.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SWEET CASSEROLE OF RICE (an Entremets).

1351. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rice, 3 pints of milk, sugar to taste,
flavouring of bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--This is made in precisely the same manner as a savoury
casserole, only substituting the milk and sugar for the stock and salt.
Put the milk into a stewpan, with sufficient essence of bitter almonds
to flavour it well; then add the rice, which should be washed, picked,
and drained, and let it swell gradually in the milk over a slow fire.
When it is tender, stir in the sugar, butter, and yolks of eggs; butter
a mould, press in the rice, and proceed in exactly the same manner as in
recipe No. 1350. When the casserole is ready, fill it with a compôte of
any fruit that may be preferred, or with melted apricot-jam, and serve.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice, 1/2 to 3/4 hour to bake
the casserole.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the compôte or jam, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 casseroles.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


FRENCH RICE PUDDING, or GATEAU DE RIZ.

1352. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1/4 lb. of rice allow 1 quart of milk, the
rind of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, sugar to taste, 4 oz. of
butter, 6 eggs, bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-rind, and let it
infuse for 1/2 hour, or until the former is well flavoured; then take
out the peel; have ready the rice washed, picked, and drained; put it
into the milk, and let it gradually swell over a very slow fire. Stir in
the butter, salt, and sugar, and when properly sweetened, add the yolks
of the eggs, and then the whites, both of which should be well beaten,
and added separately to the rice. Butter a mould, strew in some fine
bread crumbs, and let them be spread equally over it; then carefully
pour in the rice, and bake the pudding in a _slow_ oven for 1 hour. Turn
it out of the mould, and garnish the dish with preserved cherries, or
any bright-coloured jelly or jam. This pudding would be exceedingly
nice, flavoured with essence of vanilla.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour for the rice to swell; to be baked 1 hour in a
slow oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BAKED OR BOILED GROUND RICE PUDDING.

1353. INGREDIENTS.--2 pints of milk, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground rice,
sugar to taste, 4 eggs, flavouring of lemon-rind, nutmeg, bitter almonds
or bay-leaf.

_Mode_.--Put 1-1/2 pint of the milk into a stewpan, with any of the
above flavourings, and bring it to the boiling-point, and, with the
other 1/2 pint of milk, mix the ground rice to a smooth batter; strain
the boiling milk to this, and stir over the fire until the mixture is
tolerably thick; then pour it into a basin, leave it uncovered, and when
nearly or quite cold, sweeten it to taste, and add the eggs, which
should be previously well beaten, with a little salt. Put the pudding
into a well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into
boiling water, and boil for 1-1/2 hour. For a baked pudding, proceed in
precisely the same manner, only using half the above proportion of
ground rice, with the same quantity of all the other ingredients: an
hour will bake the pudding in a moderate oven. Stewed fruit, or
preserves, or marmalade, may be served with either the boiled or baked
pudding, and will be found an improvement.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to boil, 1 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ICED RICE PUDDING.

1354. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 lb. of sugar,
the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla.

_Mode_.--Put the rice into a stewpan, with the milk and sugar, and let
these simmer over a gentle fire until the rice is sufficiently soft to
break up into a smooth mass, and should the milk dry away too much, a
little more may be added. Stir the rice occasionally, to prevent its
burning, then beat it to a smooth mixture; add the yolks of the eggs,
which should be well whisked, and the vanilla (should this flavouring
not be liked, essence of bitter almonds may be substituted for it); put
this rice custard into the freezing-pot, and proceed as directed in
recipe No. 1290. When wanted for table, turn the pudding out of the
mould, and pour over the top, and round it, a _compôte_ of oranges, or
any other fruit that may be preferred, taking care that the flavouring
in the pudding harmonizes well with the fruit that is served with it.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.; exclusive of the _compôte_, 1s. 4d.

_Seasonable_.--Served all the year round.


MINIATURE RICE PUDDINGS.

1355. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. of fresh
butter, 4 eggs, sugar to taste; flavouring of lemon-peel, bitter
almonds, or vanilla; a few strips of candied peel.

_Mode_.--Let the rice swell in 1 pint of the milk over a slow fire,
putting with it a strip of lemon-peel; stir to it the butter and the
other 1/2 pint of milk, and let the mixture cool. Then add the
well-beaten eggs, and a few drops of essence of almonds or essence of
vanilla, whichever may be preferred; butter well some small cups or
moulds, line them with a few pieces of candied peel sliced very thin,
fill them three parts full, and bake for about 40 minutes; turn them out
of the cups on to a white d'oyley, and serve with sweet sauce. The
flavouring and candied peel might be omitted, and stewed fruit or
preserve served instead, with these puddings.

_Time_.--40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ARROWROOT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1356. INGREDIENTS.--2 small teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 4
dessert-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/4
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the water; put this into a
stewpan; add the sugar, strained lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg. Stir
these ingredients over the fire until they boil, when the sauce is ready
for use. A small quantity of wine, or any liqueur, would very much
improve the flavour of this sauce: it is usually served with bread,
rice, custard, or any dry pudding that is not very rich.

_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.


CHERRY SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

(_German Recipe_.)

1357. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of cherries, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 oz.
of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 wineglassful of port wine, a little
grated lemon-rind, 4 pounded cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice,
sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Stone the cherries, and pound the kernels in a mortar to a
smooth paste; put the butter and flour into a saucepan; stir them over
the fire until of a pale brown; then add the cherries, the pounded
kernels, the wine, and the water. Simmer these gently for 1/4 hour, or
until the cherries are quite cooked, and rub the whole through a hair
sieve; add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce boil for another 5
minutes, and serve. This is a delicious sauce to serve with boiled
batter pudding, and when thus used, should be sent to table poured over
the pudding.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.


LEMON SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

1358. INGREDIENTS.--The rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of
flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 large wineglassful of sherry, 1 wineglassful
of water, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Rub the rind of the lemon on to some lumps of sugar; squeeze
out the juice, and strain it; put the butter and flour into a saucepan,
stir them over the fire, and when of a pale brown, add the wine, water,
and strained lemon-juice. Crush the lumps of sugar that were rubbed on
the lemon; stir these into the sauce, which should be very sweet. When
these ingredients are well mixed, and the sugar is melted, put in the
beaten yolks of 4 eggs; keep stirring the sauce until it thickens, when
serve. Do not, on any account, allow it to boil, or it will curdle, and
be entirely spoiled.

_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.


SOYER'S SAUCE FOR PLUM-PUDDING.

1359. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of powdered
sugar, 1 gill of milk, a very little grated lemon-rind, 2 small
wineglassfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of 3 eggs, and put the
former into a stewpan; add the sugar, milk, and grated lemon-rind, and
stir over the fire until the mixture thickens; but do _not_ allow it to
_boil_. Put in the brandy; let the sauce stand by the side of the fire,
to get quite hot; keep stirring it, and serve in a boat or tureen
separately, or pour it over the pudding.

_Time_.--Altogether, 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.


SWEET SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1360. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter made with milk,
4 heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, flavouring; of grated
lemon-rind, or nutmeg, or cinnamon.

_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 380, omitting the
salt; stir in the sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or
powdered cinnamon, and serve. Previously to making the melted butter,
the milk can be flavoured with bitter almonds, by infusing about half a
dozen of them in it for about 1/2 hour; the milk should then be strained
before it is added to the other ingredients. This simple sauce may be
served for children with rice, batter, or bread pudding.

_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.


VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, to serve with Puddings.

1361. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, 10 drops
of essence of vanilla.

_Mode_.--Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk; stir these ingredients well
together, and flavour them with essence of vanilla, regulating the
proportion of this latter ingredient by the strength of the essence, the
size of the eggs, &c. Put the mixture into a small jug, place this jug
in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the sauce _one way_ until it
thickens; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle.
Serve in a boat or tureen separately, with plum, bread, or any kind of
dry pudding. Essence of bitter almonds or lemon-rind may be substituted
for the vanilla, when they are more in accordance with the flavouring of
the pudding with which the sauce is intended to be served.

_Time_.--To be stirred in the jug from 8 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.


AN EXCELLENT WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1362. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz.
of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2
pint of sherry or Madeira.

_Mode_.--Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir them over
the fire until the former thickens; then add the sugar, salt, and wine,
and mix these ingredients well together. Separate the yolks from the
whites of 4 eggs; beat up the former, and stir them briskly to the
sauce; let it remain over the fire until it is on the point of
simmering; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle.
This sauce is delicious with plum, marrow, or bread puddings; but should
be served separately, and not poured over the pudding.

_Time_.--From 5 to 7 minutes to thicken the butter; about 5 minutes to
stir the sauce over the fire.

_Average cost_, 1s. 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.


WINE OR BRANDY SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1363. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter No. 377, 3 heaped
teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar; 1 _large_ wineglassful of port or sherry,
or 3/4 of a _small_ glassful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 377, omitting the
salt; then stir in the sugar and wine or spirit in the above proportion,
and bring the sauce to the point of boiling. Serve in a boat or tureen
separately, and, if liked, pour a little of it over the pudding. To
convert this into punch sauce, add to the sherry and brandy a small
wineglassful of rum and the juice and grated rind of 1/2 lemon.
Liqueurs, such as Maraschino or Curaçoa substituted for the brandy, make
excellent sauces.

_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.


WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1364. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of sherry, 1/4 pint of water, the yolks of
6 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, a
few pieces of candied citron cut thin.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of 5 eggs; beat them, and
put them into a very clean saucepan (if at hand, a lined one is best);
add all the other ingredients, place them over a sharp fire, and keep
stirring until the sauce begins to thicken; then take it off and serve.
If it is allowed to boil, it will be spoiled, as it will immediately
curdle.

_Time_.--To be stirred over the fire 3 or 4 minutes; but it must not
boil.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for a large pudding; allow half this quantity for a
moderate-sized one.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


OPEN TART OF STRAWBERRY OR ANY OTHER KIND OF PRESERVE.

[Illustration: OPEN TART.]

[Illustration: OPEN-TART MOULD.]

1365. INGREDIENTS.--Trimmings of puff-paste, any kind of jam.

_Mode_.--Butter a tart-pan of the shape shown in the engraving, roll out
the paste to the thickness of 1/2 an inch, and line the pan with it;
prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork, and bake the tart in a
brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Let the paste cool a little; then fill
it with preserve, place a few stars or leaves on it, which have been
previously cut out of the paste and baked, and the tart is ready for
table. By making it in this manner, both the flavour and colour of the
jam are preserved, which would otherwise be lost, were it baked in the
oven on the paste; and, besides, so much jam is not required.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_.--1 tart for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


STRAWBERRY.--The name of this favourite fruit is said to be derived from
an ancient custom of putting straw beneath the fruit when it began to
ripen, which is very useful to keep it moist and clean. The strawberry
belongs to temperate and rather cold climates; and no fruit of these
latitudes, that ripens without the aid of artificial heat, is at all
comparable with it in point of flavour. The strawberry is widely
diffused, being found in most parts of the world, particularly in Europe
and America.


QUICKLY-MADE PUDDINGS.

1366. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb.
of flour, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a little grated lemon-rind.

_Mode_.--Make the milk hot; stir in the butter, and let it cool before
the other ingredients are added to it; then stir in the sugar, flour,
and eggs, which should be well whisked, and omit the whites of 2;
flavour with a little grated lemon-rind, and beat the mixture well.
Butter some small cups, rather more than half fill them; bake from 20
minutes to 1/2 hour, according to the size of the puddings, and serve
with fruit, custard, or wine sauce, a little of which may be poured over
them.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time.


SAGO PUDDING.

1367. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sago, the
rind of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, grated
nutmeg, puff-paste.

_Mode_.--Put the milk and lemon-rind into a stewpan, place it by the
side of the fire, and let it remain until the milk is well flavoured
with the lemon; then strain it, mix with it the sago and sugar, and
simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Let the mixture cool a little, and
stir to it the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the butter. Line
the edges of a pie-dish with puff-paste, pour in the pudding, grate a
little nutmeg over the top, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour, or longer if the oven is very slow.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The above pudding may be boiled instead of baked; but then
allow 2 extra tablespoonfuls of sago, and boil the pudding in a buttered
basin from 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour.

    SAGO.--Sago is the pith of a species of palm (_Cycas
    circinalis_). Its form is that of a small round grain. There are
    two sorts of sago,--the white and the yellow; but their
    properties are the same. Sago absorbs the liquid in which it is
    cooked, becomes transparent and soft, and retains its original
    shape. Its alimentary properties are the same as those of
    tapioca and arrowroot.

SAGO SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

1368. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of sago, 1/3 pint of water, 1/4 pint
of port or sherry, the rind and juice of 1 small lemon, sugar to taste;
when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon.

_Mode_.--Wash the sago in two or three waters; then put it into a
saucepan, with the water and lemon-peel; let it simmer gently by the
side of the fire for 10 minutes; then take out the lemon-peel, add the
remaining ingredients, give one boil, and serve. Be particular to strain
the lemon-juice before adding it to the sauce. This, on trial, will be
found a delicious accompaniment to various boiled puddings, such as
those made of bread, raisins, rice, &c.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.


BAKED SEMOLINA PUDDING.

1369. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of semolina, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 lb. of
sugar, 12 bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with the bitter almonds, by infusing them in
it by the side of the fire for about 1/2 hour; then strain it, and mix
with it the semolina, sugar, and butter. Stir these ingredients over the
fire for a few minutes; then take them off, and gradually mix in the
eggs, which should be well beaten. Butter a pie-dish, line the edges
with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake in rather a slow oven from
40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit, a little of
which may be poured over the pudding.

_Time_.--40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    SEMOLINA.--After vermicelli, semolina is the most useful
    ingredient that can be used for thickening soups, meat or
    vegetable, of rich or simple quality. Semolina is softening,
    light, wholesome, easy of digestion, and adapted to the infant,
    the aged, and the invalid. That of a clear yellow colour, well
    dried and newly made, is the fittest for use.

TAPIOCA PUDDING.

1370. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of tapioca, 1 quart of milk, 2 oz. of butter,
1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, flavouring of vanilla, grated lemon-rind, or
bitter almonds.

_Mode_.--Wash the tapioca, and let it stew gently in the milk by the
side of the fire for 1/4 hour, occasionally stirring it; then let it
cool a little; mix with it the butter, sugar, and eggs, which should be
well beaten, and flavour with either of the above ingredients, putting
in about 12 drops of the essence of almonds or vanilla, whichever is
preferred. Butter a pie-dish, and line the edges with puff-paste; put in
the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. If the pudding is
boiled, add a little more tapioca, and boil it in a buttered basin 1-1/2
hour.

_Time_.--1 hour to bake, 1-1/2 hour to boil.

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    TAPIOCA.--Tapioca is recommended to the convalescent, as being
    easy of digestion. It may be used in soup or broth, or mixed
    with milk or water, and butter. It is excellent food for either
    the healthy or sick, for the reason that it is so quickly
    digested without fatigue to the stomach.

TARTLETS.

1371. INGREDIENTS.--Trimmings of puff-paste, any jam or marmalade that
may be preferred.

[Illustration: DISH OF TARTLETS.]

_Mode_.--Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1/2 inch; butter
some small round patty-pans, line them with it, and cut off the
superfluous paste close to the edge of the pan. Put a small piece of
bread into each tartlet (this is to keep them in shape), and bake in a
brisk oven for about 10 minutes, or rather longer. When they are done,
and are of a nice colour, take the pieces of bread out carefully, and
replace them by a spoonful of jam or marmalade. Dish them high on a
white d'oyley, piled high in the centre, and serve.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. each. _Sufficient_.--1
lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of tartlets. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ROLLED TREACLE PUDDING.

1372. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1 lb. of treacle, 1/2
teaspoonful of grated ginger.

_Mode_.--Make, with 1 lb. of flour, a suet crust by recipe No. 1215;
roll it out to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and spread the treacle equally
over it, leaving a small margin where the paste joins; close the ends
securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling
water, and boil for 2 hours. We have inserted this pudding, being
economical, and a favourite one with children; it is, of course, only
suitable for a nursery, or very plain family dinner. Made with a lard
instead of a suet crust, it would be very nice baked, and would be
sufficiently done in from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Time_.--Boiled pudding, 2 hours; baked pudding, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


MEAT OR SAUSAGE ROLLS.

1373. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, sausage-meat No. 837,
the yolk of 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Make 1 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to the
thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather less, and divide it into 8, 10,
or 12 squares, according to the size the rolls are intended to be. Place
some sausage-meat on one-half of each square, wet the edges of the
paste, and fold it over the meat; slightly press the edges together, and
trim them neatly with a knife. Brush the rolls over with the yolk of an
egg, and bake them in a well-heated oven for about 1/2 hour, or longer
should they be very large. The remains of cold chicken and ham, minced
and seasoned, as also cold veal or beef, make very good rolls.

_Time_.--1/2 hour, or longer if the rolls are large.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_.--1 lb. of paste for 10 or 12 rolls.

_Seasonable_, with sausage-meat, from September to March or April.


SOMERSETSHIRE PUDDINGS.

1374. INGREDIENTS.--3 eggs, their weight in flour, pounded sugar and
butter, flavouring of grated lemon-rind, bitter almonds, or essence of
vanilla.

_Mode_.--Carefully weigh the various ingredients, by placing on one side
of the scales the eggs, and on the other the flour; then the sugar, and
then the butter. Warm the butter, and with the hands beat it to a cream;
gradually dredge in the flour and pounded sugar, and keep stirring and
beating the mixture without ceasing until it is perfectly smooth. Then
add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and either of the above
flavourings that may be preferred; butter some small cups, rather more
than half-fill them, and bake in a brisk oven for about 1/2 hour. Turn
them out, dish them on a napkin, and serve custard or wine-sauce with
them. A pretty little supper-dish may be made of these puddings cold, by
cutting out a portion of the inside with the point of a knife, and
putting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate preserve,
such as apricot, greengage, or very bright marmalade. The paste for
these puddings requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it is
beaten, the better will the puddings be. When served cold, they are
usually called _gâteaux à la Madeleine_.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time.


SUET PUDDING, to serve with Roast Meat.

1375. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of finely-chopped suet, 1/2
saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/2 pint of milk or
water.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet very finely, after freeing it from skin, and mix
it well with the flour; add the salt and pepper (this latter ingredient
may be omitted if the flavour is not liked), and make the whole into a
smooth paste with the above proportion of milk or water. Tie the pudding
in a floured cloth, or put it into a buttered basin, and boil from 2-1/2
to 3 hours. To enrich it, substitute 3 beaten eggs for some of the milk
or water, and increase the proportion of suet.

_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--When there is a joint roasting or baking, this pudding may be
boiled in a long shape, and then cut into slices a few minutes before
dinner is served: these slices should be laid in the dripping-pan for a
minute or two, and then browned before the fire. Most children like this
accompaniment to roast meat. Where there is a large family of children,
and the means of keeping them are limited, it is a most economical plan
to serve up the pudding before the meat: as, in this case, the
consumption of the latter article will be much smaller than it otherwise
would be.


SUSSEX, or HARD DUMPLINGS.

1376. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonful
of salt.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste, previously
adding a small quantity of salt. Form this into small round dumplings;
drop them into boiling water, and boil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They may be
served with roast or boiled meat; in the latter case they may be cooked
with the meat, but should be dropped into the water when it is quite
boiling.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time.


VERMICELLI PUDDING.

1377. INGREDIENTS.--4 oz. of vermicelli, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of
cream, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Boil the vermicelli in the milk until it is tender; then stir
in the remaining ingredients, omitting the cream, if not obtainable.
Flavour the mixture with grated lemon-rind, essence of bitter almonds,
or vanilla; butter a pie-dish; line the edges with puff-paste, put in
the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for about 3/4 hour.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. without cream.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


VERMICELLI.--The finest vermicelli comes from Marseilles, Nimes, and
Montpellier. It is a nourishing food, and owes its name to its peculiar
thread-like form. Vermicelli means, little worms.


VICARAGE PUDDING.

1378. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb.
of currants, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, 1/2
teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a basin, having previously stoned
the raisins, and washed, picked, and dried the currants; mix well with a
clean knife; dip the pudding-cloth into boiling water, wring it out, and
put in the mixture. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, plunge in
the pudding, and boil for 3 hours. Turn it out on the dish, and serve
with sifted sugar.

_Time_.--3 hours.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter pudding.


VOL-AU-VENT (an Entree).

1379. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 to 1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, fricasseed
chickens, rabbits, ragouts, or the remains of cold fish, flaked and
warmed in thick white sauce.

[Illustration: VOL-AU-VENT.]

_Mode_.--Make from 3/4 to 1 lb. of puff-paste, by recipe No. 1208,
taking care that it is very evenly rolled out each time, to insure its
rising properly; and if the paste is not extremely light, and put into a
good hot oven, this cannot be accomplished, and the _vol-au-vent_ will
look very badly. Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1-1/2
inch, and, with a fluted cutter, stamp it out to the desired shape,
either round or oval, and, with the point of a small knife, make a
slight incision in the paste all round the top, about an inch from the
edge, which, when baked, forms the lid. Put the _vol-au-vent_ into a
good brisk oven, and keep the door shut for a few minutes after it is
put in. Particular attention should he paid to the heating of the oven,
for the paste _cannot_ rise without a tolerable degree of heat When of a
nice colour, without being scorched, withdraw it from the oven,
instantly remove the cover where it was marked, and detach all the soft
crumb from the centre: in doing this, be careful not to break the edges
of the _vol-au-vent_; but should they look thin in places, stop them
with small flakes of the inside paste, stuck on with the white of an
egg. This precaution is necessary to prevent the fricassee or ragoût
from bursting the case, and so spoiling the appearance of the dish. Fill
the _vol-au-vent_ with a rich mince, or fricassee, or ragoût, or the
remains of cold fish flaked and warmed in a good white sauce, and do not
make them very liquid, for fear of the gravy bursting the crust: replace
the lid, and serve. To improve the appearance of the crust, brush it
over with the yolk of an egg after it has risen properly.--See coloured
plate O1.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to bake the _vol-au-vent_.

_Average cost_, exclusive of interior, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: SMALL VOL-AU-VENTS.]

_Note_.--Small _vol-au-vents_ may be made like those shown in the
engraving, and filled with minced veal, chicken, &c. They should be made
of the same paste as the larger ones, and stamped out with a small
fluted cutter.


SWEET VOL-AU-VENT OF PLUMS, APPLES, OR ANY OTHER FRESH FRUIT.

1380. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, about 1 pint of
fruit compôte.

_Mode_.--Make 1/2 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1208, taking care to
bake it in a good brisk oven, to draw it up nicely and make it look
light. Have ready sufficient stewed fruit, the syrup of which must be
boiled down until very thick; fill the _vol-au-vent_ with this, and pile
it high in the centre; powder a little sugar over it, and put it back in
the oven to glaze, or use a salamander for the purpose: the
_vol-au-vent_ is then ready to serve. They may be made with any fruit
that is in season, such as rhubarb, oranges, gooseberries, currants,
cherries, apples, &c.; but care must be taken not to have the syrup too
thin, for fear of its breaking through the crust.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the _vol-au-vent_.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the compôte, 1s. 1d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets.


VOL-AU-VENT OF FRESH STRAWBERRIES WITH WHIPPED CREAM.

1381. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, 1 pint of
freshly-gathered strawberries, sugar to taste, a plateful of whipped
cream.

_Mode_.--Make a _vol-au-vent_ case by recipe No. 1379, only not quite so
large nor so high as for a savoury one. When nearly done, brush the
paste over with the white of an egg, then sprinkle on it some pounded
sugar, and put it back in the oven to set the glaze. Remove the
interior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment of serving, fill it with the
strawberries, which should be picked, and broken up with sufficient
sugar to sweeten them nicely. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on
the top, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the _vol-au-vent_.

_Average cost_, 2s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 _vol-au-vent_.

_Seasonable_ in June and July.

    STRAWBERRY.--Among the Greeks, the name of the strawberry
    indicated its tenuity, this fruit forming hardly a mouthful.
    With the Latins, the name reminded one of the delicious perfume
    of this plant. Both nations were equally fond of it, and applied
    the same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to place it in
    the same rank with flowers; and Ovid gives it a tender epithet,
    which delicate palates would not disavow. Neither does this
    luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry, which disappears
    beneath its modest foliage, but whose presence the scented air
    reveals.

WEST-INDIAN PUDDING.

1382. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, 1/2 lb. of loaf-sugar, 1/2 lb. of
Savoy or sponge-cakes, 8 eggs, 3 oz. of preserved green ginger.
_Mode_.--Crumble down the cakes, put them into a basin, and pour over
them the cream, which should be previously sweetened and brought to the
boiling-point; cover the basin, well beat the eggs, and when the cream
is soaked up, stir them in. Butter a mould, arrange the ginger round it,
pour in the pudding carefully, and tie it down with a cloth; steam or
boil it slowly for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with the syrup from the ginger,
which should be warmed, and poured over the pudding.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 8d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.


YEAST DUMPLINGS.

1383. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 quartern of dough, boiling water.

Mode.--Make a very light dough as for bread, using to mix it, milk,
instead of water; divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; plunge them into
boiling water, and boil them for 20 minutes. Serve the instant they are
taken up, as they spoil directly, by falling and becoming heavy; and in
eating them do not touch them with a knife, but tear them apart with two
forks. They may be eaten with meat gravy, or cold butter and sugar, and
if not convenient to make the dough at home, a little from the baker's
answers as well, only it must be placed for a few minutes near the fire,
in a basin with a cloth over it, to let it rise again before it is made
into dumplings.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    YEAST consists principally of a substance very similar in
    composition, and in many of its sensible properties, to gluten;
    and, when new or fresh, it is inflated and rendered frothy by a
    large quantity of carbonic acid. When mixed with wort, this
    substance acts upon the saccharine matter; the temperature
    rises, carbonic acid is disengaged, and the result is _ale_,
    which always contains a considerable proportion of alcohol, or
    spirit. The quantity of yeast employed in brewing ale being
    small, the saccharine matter is but imperfectly decomposed:
    hence a considerable portion of it remains in the liquor, and
    gives it that viscid quality and body for which it is
    remarkable. The fermenting property of yeast is weakened by
    boiling for ten minutes, and is entirely destroyed by continuing
    the boiling. Alcohol poured upon it likewise renders it inert;
    on which account its power lessens as the alcohol is formed
    during fermentation.

YORKSHIRE PUDDING, to serve with hot Roast Beef.


1384. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 _large_ tablespoonfuls of
flour, 3 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt.

[Illustration: YORKSHIRE PUDDING.]

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin with the salt, and stir gradually to
this enough milk to make it into a stiff batter. When this is perfectly
smooth, and all the lumps are well rubbed down, add the remainder of the
milk and the eggs, which should be well beaten. Beat the mixture for a
few minutes, and pour it into a shallow tin, which has been previously
well rubbed with beef dripping. Put the pudding into the oven, and bake
it for an hour; then, for another 1/2 hour, place it under the meat, to
catch a little of the gravy that flows from it. Cut the pudding into
small square pieces, put them on a hot dish, and serve. If the meat is
baked, the pudding may at once be placed under it, resting the former on
a small three-cornered stand.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXVIII.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLÉS, OMELETS, & SWEET
DISHES.

1385. CREAMS.--The yellowish-white, opaque fluid, smooth and unctuous to
the touch, which separates itself from new milk, and forms a layer on
its surface, when removed by skimming, is employed in a variety of
culinary preparations. The analyses of the contents of cream have been
decided to be, in 100 parts--butter, 3.5; curd, or matter of cheese,
3.5; whey, 92.0. That cream contains an oil, is evinced by its staining
clothes in the manner of oil; and when boiled for some time, a little
oil floats upon the surface. The thick animal oil which it contains, the
well-known _butter_, is separated only by agitation, as in the common
process of _churning_, and the cheesy matter remains blended with the
whey in the state of _buttermilk_. Of the several kinds of cream, the
principal are the Devonshire and Dutch clotted creams, the Costorphin
cream, and the Scotch sour cream. The Devonshire cream is produced by
nearly boiling the milk in shallow tin vessels over a charcoal fire, and
kept in that state until the whole of the cream is thrown up. It is used
for eating with fruits and tarts. The cream from Costorphin, a village
of that name near Edinburgh, is accelerated in its separation from three
or four days' old milk, by a certain degree of heat; and the Dutch
clotted cream--a coagulated mass in which a spoon will stand upright--is
manufactured from fresh-drawn milk, which is put into a pan, and stirred
with a spoon two or three times a day, to prevent the cream from
separating from the milk. The Scotch "sour cream" is a misnomer; for it
is a material produced without cream. A small tub filled with skimmed
milk is put into a larger one, containing hot water, and after remaining
there all night, the thin milk (called _wigg_) is drawn off, and the
remainder of the contents of the smaller vessel is "sour cream."

1386. JELLIES are not the nourishing food they were at one time
considered to be, and many eminent physicians are of opinion that they
are less digestible than the flesh, or muscular part of animals; still,
when acidulated with lemon-juice and flavoured with wine, they are very
suitable for some convalescents. Vegetable jelly is a distinct
principle, existing in fruits, which possesses the property of
gelatinizing when boiled and cooled; but it is a principle entirely
different from the gelatine of animal bodies, although the name of
jelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an erroneous idea on that
subject. Animal jelly, or gelatine, is glue, whereas vegetable jelly is
rather analogous to gum. Liebig places gelatine very low indeed in the
scale of usefulness. He says, "Gelatine, which by itself is tasteless,
and when eaten, excites nausea, possesses no nutritive value; that, even
when accompanied by the savoury constituents of flesh, it is not capable
of supporting the vital process, and when added to the usual diet as a
substitute for plastic matter, does not increase, but, on the contrary,
diminishes the nutritive value of the food, which it renders
insufficient in quantity and inferior in quality." It is this substance
which is most frequently employed in the manufacture of the jellies
supplied by the confectioner; but those prepared at home from calves'
feet do possess some nutrition, and are the only sort that should be
given to invalids. Isinglass is the purest variety of gelatine, and is
prepared from the sounds or swimming-bladders of certain fish, chiefly
the sturgeon. From its whiteness it is mostly used for making
blanc-mange and similar dishes.

1387. THE WHITE OF EGGS is perhaps the best substance that can be
employed in clarifying jelly, as well as some other fluids, for the
reason that when albumen (and the white of eggs is nearly pure albumen)
is put into a liquid that is muddy, from substances suspended in it, on
boiling the liquid, the albumen coagulates in a flocculent manner, and,
entangling with it the impurities, rises with them to the surface as a
scum, or sinks to the bottom, according to their weight.

1388. SOUFFLES, OMELETS, AND SWEET DISHES, in which eggs form the
principal ingredient, demand, for their successful manufacture, an
experienced cook. They are the prettiest, but most difficult of all
entremets. The most essential thing to insure success is to secure the
best ingredients from an honest tradesman. The entremets coming within
the above classification, are healthy, nourishing, and pleasant to the
taste, and may be eaten with safety by persons of the most delicate
stomachs.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXIX.


BAKED APPLE CUSTARD.

1389. INGREDIENTS.--1 dozen large apples, moist sugar to taste, 1 small
teacupful of cold water, the grated rind of one lemon, 1 pint of milk, 4
eggs, 2 oz. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Peel, cut, and core the apples; put them into a lined saucepan
with the cold water, and as they heat, bruise them to a pulp; sweeten
with moist sugar, and add the grated lemon-rind. When cold, put the
fruit at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour over it a custard, made with
the above proportion of milk, eggs, and sugar; grate a little nutmeg
over the top, place the dish in a moderate oven, and bake from 25 to 35
minutes. The above proportions will make rather a large dish.

_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


BUTTERED APPLES (Sweet Entremets).

1390. INGREDIENTS.--Apple marmalade No. 1395, 6 or 7 good boiling
apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, a little
apricot jam.

_Mode_.--Pare the apples, and take out the cores without dividing them;
boil up the sugar and water for a few minutes; then lay in the apples,
and simmer them very gently until tender, taking care not to let them
break. Have ready sufficient marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, and
flavoured with lemon, to cover the bottom of the dish; arrange the
apples on this with a piece of butter placed in each, and in between
them a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade; place the dish in the
oven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle over the top sifted sugar; either
brown it before the fire or with a salamander, and serve hot.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently, 10
minutes in the oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets.

_Note_.--The syrup that the apples were boiled in should be saved for
another occasion.


FLANC OF APPLES, or APPLES IN A RAISED CRUST.

_(Sweet Entremets.)_

1391. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1211 or 1212, 9
moderate-sized apples, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of white
sugar, 3/4 pint of water, a few strips of candied citron.

_Mode_.--Make a short crust by either of the above recipes; roll it out
to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and butter an oval mould; line it with the
crust, and press it carefully all round the sides, to obtain the form of
the mould, but be particular not to break the paste. Pinch the part that
just rises above the mould with the paste-pincers, and fill the case
with flour; bake it for about 3/4 hour; then take it out of the oven,
remove the flour, put the case back in the oven for another 1/4 hour,
and do not allow it to get scorched. It is now ready for the apples,
which should be prepared in the following manner: peel, and take out the
cores with a small knife, or a cutter for the purpose, without dividing
the apples; put them into a small lined saucepan, just capable of
holding them, with sugar, water, lemon juice and rind, in the above
proportion. Let them simmer very gently until tender; then take out the
apples, let them cool, arrange them in the flanc or case, and boil down
the syrup until reduced to a thick jelly; pour it over the apples, and
garnish them with a few slices of candied citron.

1392. A MORE SIMPLE FLANC may be made by rolling out the paste, cutting
the bottom of a round or oval shape, and then a narrow strip for the
sides: these should be stuck on with the white of an egg, to the bottom
piece, and the flanc then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient sugar
to sweeten it nicely. It will not require so long baking as in a mould;
but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal thickness, and so
perfectly joined, that the juice does not escape. This dish may also be
served hot, and should be garnished in the same manner, or a little
melted apricot jam may be poured over the apples, which very much
improves their flavour.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc from 30 to 40 minutes to
stew the apples very gently.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets or side-dish.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


APPLE FRITTERS.

1393. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter,
1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, apples, hot lard or clarified
beef-dripping.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs; separate the whites from the yolks, and beat
them separately. Put the flour into a basin, stir in the butter, which
should be melted to a cream; add the salt, and moisten with sufficient
warm milk to make it of a proper consistency, that is to say, a batter
that will drop from the spoon. Stir this well, rub down any lumps that
may be seen, and add the whites of the eggs, which have been previously
well whisked; beat up the batter for a few minutes, and it is ready for
use. Now peel and cut the apples into rather thick whole slices, without
dividing them, and stamp out the middle of each slice, where the core
is, with a cutter. Throw the slices into the batter; have ready a pan of
boiling lard or clarified dripping; take out the pieces of apple one by
one, put them into the hot lard, and fry a nice brown, turning
them--when required. When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper
before the fire, to absorb the greasy moisture; then dish on a white
d'oyley, piled one above the other; strew over them some pounded sugar,
and serve very hot. The flavour of the fritters would be very much
improved by soaking the pieces of apple in a little wine, mixed with
sugar and lemon-juice, for 3 or 4 hours before wanted for table; the
batter, also, is better for being mixed some hours before the fritters
are made.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry them; 5 minutes to drain them.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


ICED APPLES, or APPLE HEDGEHOG.

1394. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 dozen good boiling apples, 1/2 lb. of sugar,
1/2 pint of water, the rind of 1/2 lemon minced very fine, the whites of
2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few sweet almonds.

_Mode_.--Peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them, and
stew them very gently in a lined saucepan with 1/2 lb. of sugar and 1/2
pint of water, and when tender, lift them carefully on to a dish. Have
ready the remainder of the apples pared, cored, and cut into thin
slices; put them into the same syrup with the lemon-peel, and boil
gently until they are reduced to a marmalade: they must be kept stirred,
to prevent them from burning. Cover the bottom of a dish with some of
the marmalade, and over that a layer of the stewed apples, in the
insides of which, and between each, place some of the marmalade; then
place another layer of apples, and fill up the cavities with marmalade
as before, forming the whole into a raised oval shape. Whip the whites
of the eggs to a stiff froth, mix with them the pounded sugar, and cover
the apples very smoothly all over with the icing; blanch and cut each
almond into 4 or 5 strips; place these strips at equal distances over
the icing sticking up; strew over a little rough pounded sugar, and
place the dish in a very slow oven, to colour the almonds, and for the
apples to get warm through. This entremets may also be served cold, and
makes a pretty supper-dish.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s. 9d. to 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


THICK APPLE JELLY OR MARMALADE, for Entremets or Dessert Dishes.

1395. INGREDIENTS.--Apples; to every lb. of pulp allow 3/4 lb. of sugar,
1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel.

[Illustration: APPLE JELLY STUCK WITH ALMONDS.]

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and boil the apples with only sufficient water to
prevent them from burning; beat them to a pulp, and to every lb. of pulp
allow the above proportion of sugar in lumps. Dip the lumps into water;
put these into a saucepan, and boil till the syrup is thick and can be
well skimmed; then add this syrup to the apple pulp, with the minced
lemon-peel, and stir it over a quick fire for about 20 minutes, or until
the apples cease to stick to the bottom of the pan. The jelly is then
done, and may be poured into moulds which have been previously dipped in
water, when it will turn out nicely for dessert or a side-dish; for the
latter a little custard should be poured round, and it should be
garnished with strips of citron or stuck with blanched almonds.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to reduce the apples to a pulp; 20 minutes
to boil after the sugar is added.

_Sufficient._--1-1/2 lb. of apples sufficient for a small mould.

_Seasonable_ from July to March; but is best in September, October or
November.


CLEAR APPLE JELLY.

1396. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen apples, 1-1/2 pint of spring-water; to every
pint of juice allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass, the
rind of 1/2 lemon.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and boil them,
with the lemon-peel, until tender; then strain off the apples, and run
the juice through a jelly-bag; put the strained juice, with the sugar
and isinglass, which has been previously boiled in 1/2 pint of water,
into a lined saucepan or preserving-pan; boil all together for about 1/4
hour, and put the jelly into moulds. When this jelly is nice and clear,
and turned out well, it makes a pretty addition to the supper-table,
with a little custard or whipped cream round it: the addition of a
little lemon-juice improves the flavour, but it is apt to render the
jelly muddy and thick. If required to be kept any length of time, rather
a larger proportion of sugar must be used.

_Time_.--From 1 to 1-1/2 hour to boil the apples; 1/4 hour the jelly.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a 1-1/2-pint mould.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


A PRETTY DISH OF APPLES AND RICE.

1397. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2
lemon, sugar to taste, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 8 apples, 1/4 lb. of
sugar, 1/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of boiled custard No. 1423.

_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with lemon-rind, by boiling them together for
a few minutes; then take out the peel, and put in the rice, with
sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and boil gently until the rice is
quite soft; then let it cool. In the mean time pare, quarter, and core
the apples, and boil them until tender in a syrup made with sugar and
water in the above proportion; and, when soft, lift them out on a sieve
to drain. Now put a middling-sized gallipot in the centre of a dish; lay
the rice all round till the top of the gallipot is reached; smooth the
rice with the back of a spoon, and stick the apples into it in rows, one
row sloping to the right and the next to the left. Set it in the oven to
colour the apples; then, when required for table, remove the gallipot,
garnish the rice with preserved fruits, and pour in the middle
sufficient custard, made by recipe No. 1423, to be level with the top of
the rice, and serve hot.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples; 3/4 hour to simmer
the rice; 1/4 hour to bake.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


APPLES A LA PORTUGAISE.

1398. INGREDIENTS.--8 good boiling apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of
sugar, a layer of apple marmalade No. 1395, 8 preserved cherries,
garnishing of apricot jam.

_Mode_.--Peel the apples, and, with a vegetable-cutter, push out the
cores; boil them in the above proportion of sugar and water, without
being too much done, and take care they do not break. Have ready a white
apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; cover the bottom of the dish
with this, level it, and lay the apples in a sieve to drain, pile them
neatly on the marmalade, making them high in the centre, and place a
preserved cherry in the middle of each. Garnish with strips of candied
citron or apricot jam, and the dish is ready for table.

_Time_.--From 20 to SO minutes to stew the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


APPLES IN RED JELLY.

(_A pretty Supper Dish_.)

1399. INGREDIENTS.--6 good-sized apples, 12 cloves, pounded sugar, 1
lemon, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, a few drops
of prepared cochineal.

_Mode_.--Choose rather large apples; peel them and take out the cores,
either with a scoop or a small silver knife, and put into each apple 2
cloves and as much sifted sugar as they will hold. Place them, without
touching each other, in a large pie-dish; add more white sugar, the
juice of 1 lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake in the oven, with a
dish over them, until they are done. Look at them frequently, and, as
each apple is cooked, place it in a glass dish. They must not be left in
the oven after they are done, or they will break, and so would spoil the
appearance of the dish. When the apples are neatly arranged in the dish
without touching each other, strain the liquor in which they have been
stewing, into a lined saucepan; add to it the rind of the lemon, and a
tablespoonful of gelatine which has been previously dissolved in cold
water, and, if not sweet, a little more sugar, and 6 cloves. Boil till
quite clear; colour with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and strain
the jelly through a double muslin into a jug; let it cool _a little_;
then pour it into the dish round the apples. When quite cold, garnish
the tops of the apples with a bright-coloured marmalade, a jelly, or the
white of an egg, beaten to a strong froth, with a little sifted sugar.

_Time_.--From 30 to 50 minutes to bake the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s., with the garnishing.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


APPLES AND RICE.

_(A Plain Dish.)_

1400. INGREDIENTS.--8 good sized apples, 3 oz. of butter, the rind of
1/2 lemon minced very fine, 6 oz. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, sugar to
taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 6 tablespoonfuls of apricot
jam.

_Mode_.--Peel the apples, halve them, and take out the cores; put them
into a stewpan with the butter, and strew sufficient sifted sugar over
to sweeten them nicely, and add the minced lemon-peel. Stew the apples
very gently until tender, taking care they do not break. Boil the rice,
with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg, until soft, and, when thoroughly done,
dish it, piled high in the centre; arrange the apples on it, warm the
apricot jam, pour it over the whole, and serve hot.

_Time_.--About 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently; about 3/4 hour
to cook the rice.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


APPLE SNOW.

(_A pretty Supper Dish_.)

1401. INGREDIENTS.--10 good-sized apples, the whites of 10 eggs, the
rind of 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and put them into
a saucepan with the lemon-peel and sufficient water to prevent them from
burning,--rather less than 1/2 pint. When they are tender, take out the
peel, beat them to a pulp, let them cool, and stir them to the whites of
the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth. Add the
sifted sugar, and continue the whisking until the mixture becomes quite
stiff; and either heap it on a glass dish, or serve it in small glasses.
The dish may be garnished with preserved barberries, or strips of
bright-coloured jelly; and a dish of custards should be served with it,
or a jug of cream.

_Time_.--From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a moderate-sized glass dish.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


APPLE SOUFFLE.

1402. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2
lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 6, 1-1/2 oz.
of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade No. 1395.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the lemon-peel until the former is well
flavoured; then strain it, put in the rice, and let it gradually swell
over a slow fire, adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. Then
crush the rice to a smooth pulp with the back of a wooden spoon; line
the bottom and sides of a round cake-tin with it, and put it into the
oven to set; turn it out of the tin carefully, and be careful that the
border of rice is firm in every part. Mix with the marmalade the beaten
yolks of eggs and the butter, and stir these over the fire until the
mixture thickens. Take it off the fire; to this add the whites of the
eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth; stir all
together, and put it into the rice border. Bake in a moderate oven for
about 1/2 hour, or until the soufflé rises very light. It should be
watched, and served instantly, or it will immediately fall after it is
taken from the oven.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


STEWED APPLES AND CUSTARD.

(_A pretty Dish for a Juvenile Supper_.)

1403. INGREDIENTS.--7 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon or 4
cloves, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of custard No.
1423.

_Mode_.--Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividing
them, and, if possible, leave the stalks on; boil the sugar and water
together for 10 minutes; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind or
cloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently until they
are tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them neatly on a
glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes,
let it cool a little; then pour it over the apples. Have ready quite 1/2
pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423; pour it round, but not over,
the apples when they are quite cold, and the dish is ready for table. A
few almonds blanched and cut into strips, and stuck in the apples, would
improve their appearance.--See coloured plate Q1.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to fill a large glass dish.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


APPLE TRIFLE.

(_A Supper Dish_.)

1404. INGREDIENTS.--10 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 6 oz.
of pounded sugar, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 eggs, whipped
cream.

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples into thin slices, and put them
into a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, the sugar, and minced
lemon-rind. Boil all together until quite tender, and pulp the apples
through a sieve; if they should not be quite sweet enough, add a little
more sugar, and put them at the bottom of the dish to form a thick
layer. Stir together the milk, cream, and eggs, with a little sugar,
over the fire, and let the mixture thicken, but do not allow it to reach
the boiling-point. When thick, take it off the fire; let it cool a
little, then pour it over the apples. Whip some cream with sugar,
lemon-peel, &c., the same as for other trifles; heap it high over the
custard, and the dish is ready for table. It may be garnished as fancy
dictates, with strips of bright apple jelly, slices of citron, &c.

_Time_.--From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples; 10 minutes to stir
the custard over the fire.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized trifle.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.


APRICOT CREAM.

1405. INGREDIENTS.--12 to 16 ripe apricots, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 pint
of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Divide the apricots, take out the stones, and boil them in a
syrup made with 1/4 lb. of sugar and 1/4 pint of water, until they form
a thin marmalade, which rub through a sieve. Boil the milk with the
other 1/4 lb. of sugar, let it cool a little, then mix with it the yolks
of eggs which have been previously well beaten; put this mixture into a
jug, place this jug in boiling water, and stir it one way over the fire
until it thickens; but on no account let it boil. Strain through a
sieve, add the isinglass, previously boiled with a small quantity of
water, and keep stirring it till nearly cold; then mix the cream with
the apricots; stir well, put it into an oiled mould, and, if convenient,
set it on ice; at any rate, in a very cool place. It should turn out on
the dish without any difficulty.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to boil the apricots.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October.

_Note_.--In winter-time, when fresh apricots are not obtainable, a
little jam may be substituted for them.


FLANC OF APRICOTS, or Compote of Apricots in a Raised Crust.

_(Sweet Entremets.)_

1406. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1212, from 9 to 12
good-sized apricots, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Make a short crust by recipe No. 1212, and line a mould with it
as directed in recipe No. 1391. Boil the sugar and water together for 10
minutes; halve the apricots, take out the stones, and simmer them in the
syrup until tender; watch them carefully, and take them up the moment
they are done, for fear they break. Arrange them neatly in the flanc or
case; boil the syrup until reduced to a jelly, pour it over the fruit,
and serve either hot or cold. Greengages, plums of all kinds, peaches,
&c., may be done in the same manner, as also currants, raspberries,
gooseberries, strawberries, &c.; but with the last-named fruits, a
little currant-juice added to them will be found an improvement.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc, about 10 minutes to
simmer the apricots.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets or side-dish.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September.


ARROWROOT BLANC-MANGE.

(_An inexpensive Supper Dish_.)

1407. INGREDIENTS.--4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint of
milk, 3 laurel-leaves or the rind of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with 1/2 pint of the milk;
put the other pint on the fire, with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel,
whichever may be preferred, and let the milk steep until it is well
flavoured. Then strain the milk, and add it, boiling, to the mixed
arrowroot; sweeten it with sifted sugar, and let it boil, stirring it
all the time, till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan.
Grease a mould with pure salad-oil, pour in the blanc-mange, and when
quite set, turn it out on a dish, and pour round it a compôte of any
kind of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A tablespoonful of brandy,
stirred in just before the blanc-mange is moulded, very much improves
the flavour of this sweet dish.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 6d. without the garnishing.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


BLANC-MANGE.

(_A Supper Dish_.)

1408. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of new milk, 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, the rind
of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 10 bitter almonds, 1/2 oz. of sweet
almonds, 1 pint of cream.

[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan, with the isinglass, lemon-rind,
and sugar, and let these ingredients stand by the side of the fire until
the milk is well flavoured; add the almonds, which should be blanched
and pounded in a mortar to a paste, and let the milk just boil up;
strain it through a fine sieve or muslin into a jug, add the cream, and
stir the mixture occasionally until nearly cold. Let it stand for a few
minutes, then pour it into the mould, which should be previously oiled
with the purest salad-oil, or dipped in cold water. There will be a
sediment at the bottom of the jug, which must not be poured into the
mould, as, when turned out, it would very much disfigure the appearance
of the blanc-mange. This blanc-mange may be made very much richer by
using 1-1/2 pint of cream, and melting the isinglass in 1/2 pint of
boiling water. The flavour may also be very much varied by adding
bay-leaves, laurel-leaves, or essence of vanilla, instead of the
lemon-rind and almonds. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçoa, or any favourite
liqueur, added in small proportions, very much enhances the flavour of
this always favourite dish. In turning it out, just loosen the edges of
the blanc-mange from the mould, place a dish on it, and turn it quickly
over; it should come out easily, and the blanc-mange have a smooth
glossy appearance when the mould is oiled, which it frequently has not
when it is only dipped in water. It may be garnished as fancy dictates.

_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour to steep the lemon-rind and almonds in the
milk.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


CHEAP BLANC-MANGE.

1409. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of
isinglass, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 4 laurel-leaves.

[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE.]

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan, and boil gently
until the isinglass is dissolved; taste it occasionally, to ascertain
when it is sufficiently flavoured with the laurel-leaves; then take them
out, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire for about 10 minutes.
Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and, when nearly cold, pour
it into a well-oiled mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom. Turn it
out carefully on a dish, and garnish with preserves, bright jelly, or a
compote of fruit.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BREAD-AND-BUTTER FRITTERS.

1410. INGREDIENTS.--Batter, 8 slices of bread and butter, 3 or 4
tablespoonfuls of jam.

_Mode_.--Make a batter, the same as for apple fritters No. 1393; cut
some slices of bread and butter, not very thick; spread half of them
with any jam that may he preferred, and cover with the other slices;
slightly press them together, and cut them out in square, long, or round
pieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry in boiling lard for about 10
minutes; drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper or
cloth. Dish them, sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE THE STOCK FOR JELLY, AND TO CLARIFY IT.

1411. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 6 pints of water.

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]

[Illustration: JELLY-BAG.]

_Mode_.--The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it
is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be
so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procure
from the butcher's 2 nice calf's feet: scald them, to take off the hair;
slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the
feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above
proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and remove every
particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it very
gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than
half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool
place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the
proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at
the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour
over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the
jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it
into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6
oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and
stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but
_do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm_. Let it boil about 10
minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold
water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover
it closely, and let it remain 1/2 hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag
into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or
the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the
jelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basin
underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should
it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock
is the foundation of all _really good_ jellies, which may be varied in
innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by
moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being
firm when turned out, 1/2 oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to
the above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf's feet are now
frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble
in preparing this favourite dish; isinglass and gelatine being two of
the principal materials employed; but, although they may _look_ as
nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate,
having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue,
particularly when made with gelatine.

_Time_.--About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify
it,--1/4 hour to boil, 1/2 hour to stand in the saucepan covered.

_Average cost_.--Calf's feet may be purchased for 6d. each when veal is
in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce.

_Sufficient_.--2 calf's feet should make 1 quart of stock.

_Seasonable_ from March to October, but may be had all the year.

    HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.--The very stout flannel called
    double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for
    a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be
    relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be
    taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it
    against unequal filtration. The most convenient mode of using
    the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside
    of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it
    at equal distances. The jelly-bag may, of coarse, be made any
    size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or
    eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The
    form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap.

COW-HEEL STOCK FOR JELLIES.

(More Economical than Calf's Feet.)

1412. INGREDIENTS.--2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled;
split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws; wash them well
in warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion of
cold water; bring it gradually to boil, remove all the scum as it rises,
and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquor is
reduced one-half; then strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity,
and put it in a cool place. Clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feet
stock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients, about 1/2 oz. of
isinglass to each quart. This stock should be made the day before it is
required for use. Two dozen shank-bones of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7
hours, yield a quart of strong firm stock. They should be put on in 2
quarts of water, which should be reduced one-half. Make this also the
day before it is required.

_Time_.--7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the
shank-bones.

_Average cost_, from 4d. to 6d. each.

_Sufficient_.--2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


ISINGLASS OR GELATINE JELLY.

(_Substitutes for Calf's Feet_.)

1413. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above
proportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very
fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum as
it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for
use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a
fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than 1/2 oz.
of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong
calf's-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. for the same quantity of
fruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it is
difficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, the
stiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglass
must be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for all
kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized
moulds.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may be
mixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., and then run through the
bag.

    ISINGLASS.--The best isinglass is brought from Russia; some of
    an inferior kind is brought from North and South America and the
    East Indies: the several varieties may be had from the wholesale
    dealers in isinglass in London. In choosing isinglass for
    domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant
    odour, and which dissolves most readily in water. The inferior
    kinds are used for fining beer, and similar purposes. Isinglass
    is much adulterated: to test its purity, take a few threads of
    the substance, drop some into boiling water, some into cold
    water, and some into vinegar. In the boiling water the isinglass
    will dissolve, in cold water it will become white and "cloudy,"
    and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. If the
    isinglass is adulterated with gelatine (that is to say, the
    commoner sorts of gelatine,--for isinglass is classed amongst
    gelatines, of all which varieties it is the very purest and
    best), in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely
    dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and
    jelly-like; and in vinegar it will harden.

HOW TO MOULD BOTTLED JELLIES.

1414. Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until the
jelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it is
sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly
into moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it out
by placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside,
put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly should then
slip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm. It may be garnished
as taste dictates.


TO CLARIFY SYRUP FOR JELLIES.

1415. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of water allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar;
the white of 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Put the sugar and water into a stewpan; set it on the fire,
and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped up
with a little water. Whisk the whole well together, and simmer very
gently until it has thrown up all the scum. Take this off as it rises,
strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep it
for use.


CALF'S-FEET JELLY.

1416. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of calf's-feet stock No. 1411, 1/2 lb. of
sugar, 1/2 pint of sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5
eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Prepare the stock as directed in recipe No. 1411, taking care
to leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface. Put
it into a saucepan, cold, without clarifying it; add the remaining
ingredients, and stir them well together before the saucepan is placed
on the fire. Then simmer the mixture gently for 1/4 hour, _but do not
stir it after it begins to warm_. Throw in a teacupful of cold water,
boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side of
the fire for about 1/2 hour, but do not let it boil again. In simmering,
the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises; but particular
attention must be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in the
slightest degree after it is heated. The isinglass should be added when
the jelly begins to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmer
for turning out. Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a
stand, or the back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basin
underneath it, and run the jelly through it. Should it not be perfectly
clear the first time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is
obtained. Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pour
in the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set. If ice is at hand,
surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and be
firmer when turned out. In summer it is necessary to have ice in which
to put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, by
her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless a
great deal of isinglass is used. When wanted for table, dip the moulds
in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on
the top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slip
out easily. It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piled
high in glasses. Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter or
tin, for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the composition
being often spoiled by using the latter.

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]

To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substituted for
the sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels, instead of
calf's feet.

_Time_.--20 minutes to simmer the jelly, 1/2 hour to stand covered.

_Average cost_, reckoning the feet at 6d. each, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to make
the jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other
ingredients. Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to.


SHERRY.--There are several kinds of sherry, as pale and brown, and there
are various degrees of each. Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour,
and, when good, has a fine aromatic odour, with something of the
agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel. When new, it is harsh and
fiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years.
Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea that
it is more free from acid than other wines; but some careful experiments
on wines do not fully confirm this opinion.


CANNELONS, or FRIED PUFFS.

(_Sweet Entremets_.)

1417. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1205; apricot, or any kind
of preserve that may be preferred; hot lard.

_Mode_.--Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin, with
jam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make a very
pretty and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste, by recipe No. 1205;
roll it out very thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal size, about 2
inches wide and 8 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam,
wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over _twice;_
slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape in the
frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a
nice brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are
coloured, that the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before the
fire, dish on a d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve.
These cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved
fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants: it should be laid
in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over, and folded and
fried in the same manner as stated above.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_,--1/2 lb. of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons.

_Seasonable_, with jam, at any time.


CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

1418. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of rather stale bread 1/2 inch thick,
clarified butter, apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with about 2
dozen apples, 1/2 glass of sherry.

[Illustration: CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.]

_Mode_.--Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain
round mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the height
of the mould, and about 1-1/2 inch wide; dip the bread in clarified
butter (or spread it with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich);
place the round piece at the bottom of the mould, and set the narrow
strips up the sides of it, overlapping each other a little, that no
juice from the apples may escape, and that they may hold firmly to the
mould. Brush the _interior_ over with white of egg (this will assist to
make the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe No.
1395, with the addition of a little sherry, and cover them with a round
piece of bread, also brushed over with egg, the same as the bottom;
slightly press the bread down, to make it adhere to the other pieces;
put a plate on the top, and bake the _charlotte_ in a brisk oven, of a
light colour. Turn it out on the dish, strew sifted sugar over the top,
and pour round it a little melted apricot jam.

_Time_.--40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.


AN EASY METHOD OF MAKING A CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

1419. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of
powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glass
of raisin-wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, 1/4 pint of cream, 2
dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-powder;
moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper
consistency, and bake it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out the
middle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent them
breaking; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should be trimmed
into neat slices; lay them in the cake, and pour over sufficient
raisin-wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved, to soak
them well. Have ready some apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395;
place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a layer of cake and a
layer of apples; whip the cream to a froth, mixing with it the sugar and
lemon-juice; pile it on the top of the _charlotte_, and garnish it with
pieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served cold, but may be eaten
hot, by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing the top with bright
jelly just before it is sent to table.

_Time_.--1 hour to bake the cake. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.


A VERY SIMPLE APPLE CHARLOTTE.

1420. INGREDIENTS.--9 slices of bread and butter, about 6 good-sized
apples, 1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of juice,
moist sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Butter a pie-dish; place a layer of bread and butter, without
the crust, at the bottom; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and cut
into thin slices; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel and
juice, and sweeten with moist sugar. Place another layer of bread and
butter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner until the dish
is full; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to preserve the
top from browning or burning; bake in a brisk oven for rather more than
3/4 hour; torn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and
serve.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.


CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

(_An Elegant Sweet Entremets_.)

1421. INGREDIENTS.--About 18 Savoy biscuits, 3/4 pint of cream,
flavouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of pounded
sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they
are sometimes called; brush the edges of them with the white of an egg,
and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a star or
rosette. Stand them upright all round the edge; carefully put them so
closely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly, and
place this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to dry the egg.
Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and melted
isinglass; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a slice of sponge-cake
cut in the shape of the mould; place it in ice, where let it remain till
ready for table; then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve. 1
tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls of wine, would
nicely flavour the above proportion of cream. For arranging the biscuits
in the mould, cut them to the shape required, so that they fit in
nicely, and level them with the mould at the top, that, when turned out,
there may be something firm to rest upon. Great care and attention is
required in the turning out of this dish, that the cream does not burst
the case; and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity
of egg brushed over them, or it would stick to the mould, and so prevent
the charlotte from coming away properly.

_Time_.--5 minutes in the oven.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 1 charlotte. _Seasonable_ at any time.


CREAM A LA VALOIS.

1422. INGREDIENTS.--4 sponge-cakes, jam, 3/4 pint of cream, sugar to
taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 glass of sherry, 1-1/4 oz. of
isinglass.

_Mode_.--Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices; place two together, with
preserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of sherry
mixed with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour the cream with the
lemon-juice and sherry; add the isinglass, which should be dissolved in
a little water, and beat up the cream well. Place a little in an oiled
mould; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream; then fill the mould with
the remainder; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish. By oiling the
mould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance, and will turn out
more easily than when merely dipped in cold water.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BOILED CUSTARDS.

1423. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 3
laurel-leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, or a few drops of essence of
vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

[Illustration: CUSTARDS IN GLASSES.]

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and
whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon-rind
flavours custards most deliciously), and let the milk steep by the side
of the fire until it is well flavoured. Bring it to the point of
boiling, then strain it into a basin; whisk the eggs well, and, when the
milk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and _strain_ this mixture
into a jug. Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire;
keep stirring the custard _one way_ until it thickens; but on no account
allow it to reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and be
full of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when this
is well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should be
rather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the top,
and the dish is ready for table. To make custards look and eat better,
ducks' eggs should be used, when obtainable; they add very much to the
flavour and richness, and so many are not required as of the ordinary
eggs, 4 ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard. When
desired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for the
milk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to those mentioned, omitting
the whites.

_Time_. 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir the
custard. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 8 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.


GINGER APPLES.

(_A pretty Supper or Dessert Dish_.)

1424. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of whole ginger, 1/4 pint of whiskey, 3
lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons.

_Mode_.--Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over
sufficient whiskey to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cut
the apples into thin slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugar
and the lemon-juice, which should he strained; and simmer all together
_very gently_ until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Serve
cold, and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or
preserved ginger.

_Time_.--3 days to soak the ginger; about 3/4 hour to simmer the apples
very gently.

_Average cost_, 2s, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 dishes. _Seasonable_ from July to March.


FRENCH PANCAKES.

1425. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, 2
oz. of flour, 1/2 pint of new milk.

_Mode_.--Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with the
butter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour,
and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk; keep stirring
and beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on buttered plates,
and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a cut lemon and
sifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a layer of
preserve or marmalade between each.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


DUTCH FLUMMERY.

1426. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind and juice of 1
lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or
raisin-wine; sifted sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan,
and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into a
basin, stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice,
which should be strained, and the wine; sweeten to taste with pounded
sugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug in a
saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one way
until it thickens; but _take care that it does not boil_. Strain it into
a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time, and put
it in a cool place to set. A tablespoonful of brandy stirred in just
before it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this dish:
it is better if made the day before it is required for table.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the isinglass; about 1/4 hour to stir the
mixture over the fire.

_Average cost_, 4s. 6d., if made with sherry; less with raisin-wine.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown. The latter
    are coloured by an addition of some cheap must, or wine which
    has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint. Pale
    sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being
    supposed most pure; but the brown are preferred by many people.
    The inferior sherries exported to England are often mixed with a
    cheap and light wine called Moguer, and are strengthened in the
    making by brandy; but too frequently they are adulterated by the
    London dealers.

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE.

1427. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1
teaspoonful of flour, 3 oz. of the best chocolate.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and put
them into different basins; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, and
chocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir these
ingredients for 5 minutes. Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in the
other basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with the
yolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance; butter a round
cake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20
minutes. Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew sifted sugar over the
top of the soufflé, and send it immediately to table. The proper
appearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which it
is served, and some cooks, to preserve its lightness, hold a salamander
over the soufflé until it is placed on the table. If allowed to stand
after it comes from the oven, it will be entirely spoiled, as it falls
almost immediately.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized soufflé. _Seasonable_ at any time.


DARIOLES A LA VANILLE.

(_Sweet Entremets_.)

1428. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of flour,
3 oz. of pounded sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff-paste, flavouring
of essence of vanilla.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk; stir in the
cream, sugar, the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the butter,
which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla, drop
by drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; line some dariole-moulds
with puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and bake in a
good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the moulds on a dish,
without breaking them; strew over sifted sugar, and serve. The
flavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon,
cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla.

_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.


CURRANT FRITTERS.

1429. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 eggs,
3 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls of currants, sugar to
taste, a very little grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified dripping.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a basin with the flour, which should
previously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little cold milk; stir
these ingredients together; add the well-whisked eggs, the rice,
currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and, if
not sufficiently thick, add a little more boiled rice; drop it, in small
quantities, into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; fry the
fritters a nice brown, and, when done, drain them on a piece of
blotting-paper, before the fire. Pile them on a white d'oyley, strew
over sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. Send a cut lemon to table
with them.

_Time_.--From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


CHOCOLATE CREAM.

1430. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of grated chocolate, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2
pint of cream, 1/2 oz. of clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs.

[Illustration: CREAM-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with the
grated chocolate, the sugar, and 1 pint of the cream; stir these
ingredients well together, pour them into a jug, and set this jug in a
saucepan of boiling water; stir it one way until the mixture thickens,
but _do not allow it to boil_, or it will curdle. Strain the cream
through a sieve into a basin; stir in the isinglass and the other 1/2
pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix all well together, and
pour it into a mould which has been previously oiled with the purest
salad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice until wanted for table.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire.

_Average cost_, 4s. 6d, with cream at 1s. per pint.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


GENEVA WAFERS.

1431. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of
pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Well whisk the eggs; put them into a basin, and stir to them
the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and sifted
sugar gradually, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet,
and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a space
between each. Bake in a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, when
half done, roll them up like wafers, and put in a small wedge of bread
or piece of wood, to keep them in shape. Return them to the oven until
crisp. Before serving, remove the bread, put a spoonful of preserve in
the widest end, and fill up with whipped cream. This is a very pretty
and ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice and very
easily made.

_Time_.--Altogether 20 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the preserve and cream, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a nice-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.


GINGER CREAM.

1432. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of
preserved ginger, 2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup, sifted sugar to taste, 1
oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Slice the ginger finely; put it into a basin with the syrup,
the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and the cream; mix these ingredients well
together, and stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or until the
mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly cold,
sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted and
strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. It may be garnished with
slices of preserved ginger or candied citron.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the cream over the fire.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a good-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    PRESERVED GINGER comes to us from the West Indies. It is made by
    scalding the roots when they are green and full of sap, then
    peeling them in cold water, and putting them into jars, with a
    rich syrup; in which state we receive them. It should be chosen
    of a bright-yellow colour, with a little transparency: what is
    dark-coloured, fibrous, and stringy, is not good. Ginger roots,
    fit for preserving, and in size equal to West Indian, have been
    produced in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh.

TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY FOOL.

1433. INGREDIENTS.--Green gooseberries; to every pint of pulp add 1 pint
of milk, or 1/2 pint of cream and 1/2 pint of milk; sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries; put them into a
jar, with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar; set
this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruit
is soft enough to mash. When done enough, beat it to a pulp, work this
pulp through a colander, and stir to every pint the above proportion of
milk, or equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain if the mixture is
sweet enough, and put in plenty of sugar, or it will not be eatable; and
in mixing the milk and gooseberries, add the former very gradually to
these: serve in a glass dish, or in small glasses. This, although a very
old-fashioned and homely dish, is, when well made, very delicious, and,
if properly sweetened, a very suitable preparation for children.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per pint, with milk.

_Sufficient_.--A pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6
children.

_Seasonable_ in May and June.


GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.

1434. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, 1 pint of
custard No. 1423, a plateful of whipped cream.

_Mode_.--Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar to
sweeten them, and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp at
the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over it a pint of custard made by
recipe No. 1423, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream. The cream
should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will then
be so much firmer and more solid. The dish may be garnished as fancy
dictates.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to boil the gooseberries.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ in May and June.


INDIAN FRITTERS.

1435. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of flour, boiling water, the yolks
of 4 eggs, the whites of 2, hot lard or clarified dripping, jam.

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, and pour over it sufficient
_boiling_ water to make it into a stiff paste, taking care to stir and
beat it well, to prevent it getting lumpy. Leave it a little time to
cool, and then break into it (_without beating them at first_) the yolks
of 4 eggs and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all well together. Have
ready some boiling lard or butter; drop a dessertspoonful of batter in
at a time, and fry the fritters of a light brown. They should rise so
much as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of
preserve or marmalade dropped in between each fritter. This is an
excellent dish for a hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedly
arrives, it being so easily and quickly made, and it is always a great
favourite.

_Time_.--From 5 to 8 minutes to fry the fritters.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the jam, 5d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


INDIAN TRIFLE.

1436. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 large lemon, sugar
to taste, 5 heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour, 1 oz. of sweet almonds,
1/2 pint of custard.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is well
flavoured; take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour, which
should first be moistened with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf sugar
to sweeten it nicely. Boil gently for about 5 minutes, and keep the
mixture stirred; take it off the fire, let it cool _a little_, and pour
it into a glass dish. When cold, cut the rice out in the form of a star,
or any other shape that may be preferred; take out the spare rice, and
fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and cut the almonds into
strips; stick them over the trifle, and garnish it with pieces of
brightly-coloured jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the milk, 5 minutes after the rice is added.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: THE CITRON.]

    THE CITRON.--The citron belongs to the same species as the
    lemon, being considered only as a variety, the distinction
    between them not being very great. It is larger, and is less
    succulent, but more acid: with a little artificial heat, the
    citron comes to as great perfection in England as in Spain and
    Italy. The fruit is oblong and about five or six inches in
    length. The tree is thorny. The juice forms an excellent
    lemonade with sugar and water; its uses in punch, negus, and in
    medicine, are well known. The rind is very thick, and, when
    candied with sugar, forms an excellent sweetmeat. There are
    several varieties cultivated in England, one of which is termed
    the Forbidden Fruit.

ITALIAN CREAM.

1437. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, 1
oz. of isinglass, 1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, with sugar to sweeten,
and the lemon-rind. Boil until the milk is well flavoured then strain it
into a basin, and add the beaten yolks of eggs. Put this mixture into a
jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and
stir the contents until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil.
Take the cream off the fire, stir in the lemon-juice and isinglass,
which should be melted, and whip well; fill a mould, place it in ice if
at hand, and, when set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish as taste may
dictate. The mixture may be whipped and drained, and then put into small
glasses, when this mode of serving is preferred.

_Time_.--From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


THE HIDDEN MOUNTAIN.

(_A pretty Supper Dish_.)

1438. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, a few slices of citron, sugar to taste, 1/4
pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam.

_Mode_.--Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; then mix them
and beat well again, adding a few thin slices of citron, the cream, and
sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely. When the mixture is well
beaten, put it into a buttered pan, and fry the same as a pancake; but
it should be three times the thickness of an ordinary pancake. Cover it
with jam, and garnish with slices of citron and holly-leaves. This dish
is served cold.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry the mixture.

_Average cost_, with the jam, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


JAUNEMANGE.

1439. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint of water, 1/2 pint of
white wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, the
yolks of 6 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan, and
boil gently until the former is dissolved; then add the strained
lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole
nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add
the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; place the jug in a
saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture _one way_ until it
thickens, _but do not allow it to boil_; then take it off the fire, and
keep stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting the
sediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes to
stir the mixture in the jug.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


JELLY MOULDED WITH FRESH FRUIT, or MACEDOINE DE FRUITS.

1440. INGREDIENTS.--Rather more than 1-1/2 pint of jelly, a few nice
strawberries, or red or white currants, or raspberries, or any fresh
fruit that may be in season.

_Mode_.--Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be very
clear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional quantity
of sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the stalks, unless
currants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come from the
tree. Begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould, which
must harden; then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould,
recollecting; that _it will be reversed when turned out;_ then pour in
some more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and, when that layer is set,
put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full. If
convenient, put it in ice until required for table, then wring a cloth
in boiling water, wrap it round the mould for a minute, and turn the
jelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c., are better
for being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in the
jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants are put
in raw. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty
jelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these, in a
bright and clear jelly, have a very pretty effect; of course, unless the
jelly be _very clear_, the beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may be
garnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly; for instance, an
open jelly with strawberries might have, piled in the centre, a few of
the same fruit prettily arranged, or a little whipped cream might be
substituted for the fruit.

[Illustration: JELLY MOULDED WITH CHERRIES.]

_Time_.--One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place,
before another layer is added. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_, with fruit, to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, at any
time.


JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.

1441. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of calf's-feet jelly No. 1416, a few
drops of prepared cochineal.

[Illustration: JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.]

_Mode_.--Make 1-1/2 pint of jelly by recipe No. 1416, or, if wished more
economical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any way
that may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of
prepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Have
ready a mould well wetted in every part; pour in a small quantity of the
red jelly, and let this set; when quite firm, pour on it the same
quantity of the pale jelly, and let this set; then proceed in this
manner until the mould is full, always taking care to let one jelly set
before the other is poured in, or the colours would run one into the
other. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped appearance. For
variety, half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies,
and, when firm, filled up with the other: this, also, has a very pretty
effect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is poured
in small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and red jelly, or
blancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above manner, look very
well. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch in
depth, and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another is
added. Half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly are
frequently served in the same manner. A few pretty dishes may be made,
in this way, of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day, by
melting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water,
and then moulding them by the foregoing directions. (See coloured plate
S1.)

_Time_.--3/4 hour to make the jelly.

_Average cost_, with calf's-feet jelly, 2s.; with gelatine and syrup,
more economical.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or
the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly.


LEMON BLANCMANGE.

1442. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 3 oz. of
ground rice, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of fresh butter, the rind
of 1 lemon, the juice of 2, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.

[Illustration: BLANCMANGE MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and 1/2 pint of the
milk, and, when done, put it into a basin: put half the remainder of the
milk into a saucepan with the ground rice, fresh butter, lemon-rind, and
3 oz. of the sugar, and let these ingredients boil until the mixture is
stiff, stirring them continually; when done, pour it into the bowl where
the custard is, mixing both well together. Put the gelatine with the
rest of the milk into a saucepan, and let it stand by the side of the
fire to dissolve; boil for a minute or two, stir carefully into the
basin, adding 3 oz. more of pounded sugar. When cold, stir in the
lemon-juice, which should be carefully strained, and pour the mixture
into a well-oiled mould, leaving out the lemon-peel, and set the mould
in a pan of cold water until wanted for table. Use eggs that have
rich-looking yolks; and, should the weather be very warm, rather a
larger proportion of gelatine must be allowed.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 2 small moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMON CREAM.

1443. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 lb. of
white sugar, 1 large lemon, 1 oz. of isinglass.

[Illustration: LEMON-CREAM MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the cream into a _lined_ saucepan with the sugar,
lemon-peel, and isinglass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about
10 minutes, stirring them all the time. Strain the cream into a jug, add
the yolks of eggs, which should be well beaten, and put the jug into a
saucepan of boiling water; stir the mixture one way until it thickens,
_but do not allow it to boil_; take it off the fire, and keep stirring
it until nearly cold. Strain the lemon-juice into a basin, gradually
pour on it the cream, and _stir it well_ until the juice is well mixed
with it. Have ready a well-oiled mould, pour the cream into it, and let
it remain until perfectly set. When required for table, loosen the edges
with a small blunt knife, put a dish on the top of the mould, turn it
over quickly, and the cream should easily slip away.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the cream; about 10 minutes to stir it over
the fire in the jug.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 2s.
6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ECONOMICAL LEMON CREAM.

1444. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, 8 bitter almonds, 2 oz. of
gelatine, 2 large lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, which
should be well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, lemon-rind, and lump
sugar, and boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat up the yolks
of the eggs, strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour the
mixture backwards and forwards a few times, until nearly cold; then stir
briskly to it the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and keep
stirring until the cream is almost cold: put it into an oiled mould, and
let it remain until perfectly set. The lemon-juice must not be added to
the cream when it is warm, and should be well stirred after it is put
in.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the milk. _Average cost_, 2s. 5d.

_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMON CREAMS.

(_Very good_.)

1445. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, 2 dozen sweet almonds, 3 glasses of
sherry, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Blanch and chop the almonds, and put them into a jug with the
cream; in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, strained juice, and
sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour rapidly from
one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed; then, pour it
into jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. This is a very cool and
delicious sweet for summer, and may be made less rich by omitting the
almonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for the sherry.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.

_Sufficient_ to fill 12 glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMON CREAMS OF CUSTARDS.

1446. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of boiling water, the
rind of 1 lemon and the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs.

_Mode_.--Make a quart of lemonade in the following manner:--Dissolve the
sugar in the boiling water, having previously, with part of the sugar,
rubbed off the lemon-rind, and add the strained juice. Strain the
lemonade into a saucepan, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be
well beaten; stir this _one way_ over the fire until the mixture
thickens, but do not allow it to boil, and serve in custard-glasses, or
on a glass dish. After the boiling water is poured on the sugar and
lemon, it should stand covered for about 1/2 hour before the eggs are
added to it, that the flavour of the rind may be extracted.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to make the lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir the
custard over the fire.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to fill 12 to 14 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMON JELLY.

1447. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, 1 pint of water,
1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1/4 pint of sherry.

_Mode_.--Peel 3 of the lemons, pour 1/2 pint of boiling water on the
rind, and let it infuse for 1/2 hour; put the sugar, isinglass, and 1/2
pint of water into a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients for 20
minutes; then put in the strained lemon-juice, the strained infusion of
the rind, and bring the whole to the point of boiling; skim well, add
the wine, and run the jelly through a bag; pour it into a mould that has
been wetted or soaked in water; put it in ice, if convenient, where let
it remain until required for table. Previously to adding the lemon-juice
to the other ingredients, ascertain that it is very nicely strained, as,
if this is not properly attended to, it is liable to make the jelly
thick and muddy. As this jelly is very pale, and almost colourless, it
answers very well for moulding with a jelly of any bright hue; for
instance, half a jelly bright red, and the other half made of the above,
would have a very good effect. Lemon jelly may also be made with
calf's-feet stock, allowing the juice of 3 lemons to every pint of
stock.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMON SPONGE.

1448. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of isinglass, 1-3/4 pint of water, 3/4 lb. of
pounded sugar, the juice of 5 lemons, the rind of 1, the whites of 3
eggs.

_Mode_.--Dissolve the isinglass in the water, strain it into a saucepan,
and add the sugar, lemon-rind, and juice. Boil the whole from 10 to 15
minutes; strain it again, and let it stand till it is cold and begins to
stiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to it, and whisk the
mixture till it is quite white; put it into a mould which has been
previously wetted, and let it remain until perfectly set; then turn it
out, and garnish it according to taste.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s.
6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


LIQUEUR JELLY.

1449. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of lump sugar, 2 oz. of isinglass, 1-1/2 pint
of water, the juice of 2 lemons, 1/4 pint of liqueur.

[Illustration: OVAL JELLY-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, into a stewpan, and
boil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scum
remaining, which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises. Boil the
isinglass with the other 1/2 pint of water, and skim it carefully in the
same manner. Strain the lemon-juice, and add it, with the clarified
isinglass, to the syrup; put in the liqueur, and bring the whole to the
boiling-point. Let the saucepan remain covered by the side of the fire
for a few minutes; then pour the jelly through a bag, put it into a
mould, and set the mould in ice until required for table. Dip the mould
in hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a knife
round the edges, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Noyeau,
Maraschino, Curaçoa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, answers for this
jelly; and, when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually
prepared as directed above.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


A SWEET DISH OF MACARONI.

1450. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of
1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of lump sugar, 3/4 pint of custard No. 1423.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel and sugar;
bring it to the boiling-point, drop in the macaroni, and let it
gradually swell over a gentle fire, but do not allow the pipes to break.
The form should be entirely preserved; and, though tender, should be
firm, and not soft, with no part beginning to melt. Should the milk dry
away before the macaroni is sufficiently swelled, add a little more.
Make a custard by recipe No. 1423; place the macaroni on a dish, and
pour the custard over the hot macaroni; grate over it a little nutmeg,
and, when cold, garnish the dish with slices of candied citron.

_Time_.--From 40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni.

_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


MERINGUES.

1451. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of pounded sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.

[Illustration: MERINGUES.]

_Mode_.--Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with a
wooden spoon, stir in _quickly_ the pounded sugar; and have some boards
thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues
from acquiring too much colour. Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches
wide; place this paper on the board, and drop a tablespoonful at a time
of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be the
same size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of
an egg, and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other on
the paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate
oven for 1/2 hour. As soon as they begin to colour, remove them from the
oven; take each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the
table, and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue.
Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down,
and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When
required for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur
or vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the meringues
together, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexed
drawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or currants
may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may
be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great expedition is
necessary in making this sweet dish; as, if the meringues are not put
into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed, the former melts,
and the mixture would run on the paper, instead of keeping its
egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made, the crisper will they be;
but, if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will most
likely be tough. They are sometimes coloured with cochineal; and, if
kept well covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six
weeks.

_Time_.--Altogether, about 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, with the cream and flavouring, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen meringues. _Seasonable_ at any time.


NOYEAU CREAM.

1452. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons,
noyeau and pounded sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of cream.

_Mode_.--Dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water, add the
lemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeau
and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely; whisk the cream
well, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a cool
place; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint and the best isinglass, 4s.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.

(_A very pretty dish_.)

1453. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of jelly, 1/2 pint of cream, 1 glass of
sherry, sugar to taste.

[Illustration: OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]

_Mode_.--Make the above proportion of calf's-feet or isinglass jelly,
colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak a
mould, open in the centre, for about 1/2 hour in cold water; fill it
with the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set;
then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream,
flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this cream
high in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark
colour, to contrast nicely with the cream.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ORANGE JELLY.

1454. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of water, 1-1/2 to 2 oz. of isinglass, 1/2
lb. of loaf sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China oranges.

[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the water into a saucepan, with the isinglass, sugar, and
the rind of 1 orange, and the same of 1/2 lemon, and stir these over the
fire until the isinglass is dissolved, and remove the scum; then add to
this the juice of the Seville orange, the juice of the lemon, and
sufficient juice of China oranges to make in all 1 pint; from 8 to 10
oranges will yield the desired quantity. Stir all together over the fire
until it is just on the point of boiling; skim well; then strain the
jelly through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when nearly cold, put
it into a mould previously wetted, and, when quite set, turn it out on a
dish, and garnish it to taste. To insure this jelly being clear, the
orange-and lemon-juice should be well strained, and the isinglass
clarified, before they are added to the other ingredients, and, to
heighten the colour, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil without the juice; 1 minute after it is
added.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May.


ORANGE JELLY MOULDED WITH SLICES OF ORANGE.

1455. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of orange jelly No. 1454, 4 oranges, 1
pint of clarified syrup.

_Mode_.--Boil 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar with 1/2 pint of water until there
is no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises),
and carefully peel the oranges; divide them into thin slices, without
breaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup,
where let them remain for about 5 minutes; then take them out, and use
the syrup for the jelly, which should be made by recipe No. 1454. When
the oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour a
little of the latter into the bottom of the mould; then lay in a few
pieces of orange; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set,
place another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until the
mould is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning it
out, wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has been
wrung out in boiling water.

_Time_.--5 minutes to simmer the oranges. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.


TO MAKE A PLAIN OMELET.

1456. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/3 saltspoonful of
pepper, 1/4 lb. of butter.

[Illustration: OMELET.]

_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beat
them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; then add 2 oz.
of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture.
Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan, make it quite hot, and,
as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c. very briskly for a
minute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon
one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm, and when the whole
is set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form;
and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done. To
take off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for
a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve
very expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it is
just wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by
adding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese,
allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the
latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be
added: the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded
and cut into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly careful
that it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too large
a frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste of
the outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done, and
should be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance may
be heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes served
with gravy; but _this should never be poured over them_, but served in a
tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat,
instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavour
should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thickened with
arrowroot or rice flour.

_Time_.--With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6
minutes. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

HAM OMELET (_A delicious Breakfast Dish_.)

1457. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper,
2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham.

_Mode_.--Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for 2
minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelet, stir in
the ham, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1456. Do not add any salt
to the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a
flavour to the omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well
for this dish; but they must also be slightly cooked previously to
mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy.

_Time_.--From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


KIDNEY OMELET (_A favourite French dish_.)

1458. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of
pepper, 2 sheep's kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney, 5
oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in a
frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix
the ingredients for the omelet the same as in recipe No. 1456, and when
the eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter
hot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fry
it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold
the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful
that it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before the
fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colour
is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully on
to a _very hot_ dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on the
omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant
it comes from the fire.

_Time_.--4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE A PLAIN SWEET OMELET.

1459. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3; whisk
them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which should be
broken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well together.
Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan, and
when it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring them
until they begin to set; then turn the edges of the omelet over, to make
it an oval shape, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the pan
before the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it carefully on to a
_very hot_ dish: sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.

_Time_.--From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, or JAM OMELET.

1460. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of
apricot, strawberry, or any jam that may be preferred.

_Mode_.--Make the omelet by recipe No. 1459, only instead of doubling it
over, leave it flat in the pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown on one
side, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle of it
the jam, and fold the omelet over on each side; sprinkle sifted sugar
over, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets may be made
by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying them separately;
they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve,
and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with sifted
sugar before being sent to table.

_Time_.--4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.

1461. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 5 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring of
vanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. of butter, 1
dessert-spoonful of rice-flour.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to the
former the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavourings
that may be preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whip
the whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put the
butter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour the
batter into it, and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire; and when
the omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, and
slip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered.
Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes; sprinkle
finely-powdered sugar over the soufflé, and _serve it immediately_.

_Time_.--About 4 minutes in the pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes.

_Average cost_. 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BACHELOR'S OMELET.

1462. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, 1/2 teacupful of milk.

_Mode_.--Make a thin cream of the flour and milk; then beat up the eggs,
mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne.
Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot, pour in the
batter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire; then
sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion;
double the omelet dexterously, and shake it out of the pan on to a hot
dish. A simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process,
substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs.

_Time_.--2 minutes.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


ORANGE CREAM.

1463. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of isinglass, 6 large oranges, 1 lemon, sugar
to taste, water, 1/2 pint of good cream.

[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon; strain it, and
put it into a saucepan with the isinglass, and sufficient water to make
in all 1-1/2 pint. Rub the sugar on the orange and lemon-rind, add it to
the other ingredients, and boil all together for about 10 minutes.
Strain through a muslin bag, and, when cold, beat up with it 1/2 pint of
thick cream. Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water; pour in the cream,
and put it in a cool place to set. If the weather is very cold, 1 oz. of
isinglass will be found sufficient for the above proportion of
ingredients.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the juice and water.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.


ORANGE CREAMS.

1464. INGREDIENTS.--1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1/4 lb.
of loaf sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream.

_Mode_.--Boil the rind of the Seville orange until tender, and beat it
in a mortar to a pulp; add to it the brandy, the strained juice of the
orange, and the sugar, and beat all together for about 10 minutes,
adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Bring the cream to the
boiling-point, and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients, and
beat the mixture till nearly cold; put it into custard-cups, place the
cups in a deep dish of boiling water, where let them remain till quite
cold. Take the cups out of the water, wipe them, and garnish the tops of
the creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 7d.

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 creams.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.

_Note_.--To render this dish more economical, substitute milk for the
cream, but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm.

    SEVILLE ORANGE (_Citrus vulgaris_).--This variety, called also
    _bitter orange_, is of the same species as the sweet orange, and
    grows in great abundance on the banks of the Guadalquiver, in
    Andalusia, whence this fruit is chiefly obtained. In that part
    of Spain there are very extensive orchards of these oranges,
    which form the chief wealth of the monasteries. The pulp of the
    bitter orange is not eaten raw. In the yellow rind, separated
    from the white spongy substance immediately below it, is
    contained an essential oil, which is an agreeable warm aromatic,
    much superior for many purposes to that of the common orange.
    The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this
    orange; and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is
    distilled. Seville oranges are also preserved whole as a
    sweetmeat.

ORANGE FRITTERS.

1465. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter,
1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or clarified
dripping.

_Mode_.--Make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour,
butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient milk to make it the proper
consistency; peel the oranges, remove as much of the white skin as
possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces, without breaking the
thin skin, unless it be to remove the pips; dip each piece of orange in
the batter. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; drop
in the oranges, and fry them a delicate brown from 8 to 10 minutes. When
done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to drain
away the greasy moisture, and dish them on a white d'oyley; sprinkle
over them plenty of pounded sugar, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to drain them.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.


A PRETTY DISH OF ORANGES.

1466. INGREDIENTS.--6 large oranges, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of
water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur, sugar
to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and boil them until
the sugar becomes brittle, which may be ascertained by taking up a small
quantity in a spoon, and dipping it in cold water; if the sugar is
sufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. Peel the oranges, remove as
much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into nice-sized
slices, without breaking the thin white skin which surrounds the juicy
pulp. Place the pieces of orange on small skewers, dip them into the hot
sugar, and arrange them in layers round a plain mould, which should be
well oiled with the purest salad-oil. The sides of the mould only should
be lined with the oranges, and the centre left open for the cream. Let
the sugar become firm by cooling; turn the oranges carefully out on a
dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with any kind of
liqueur, and sweetened with pounded sugar. This is an exceedingly
ornamental and nice dish for the supper-table.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May.


TO MAKE PANCAKES.

1467. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, flour, milk; to every egg allow 1 oz. of
flour, about 1 gill of milk, 1/8 saltspoonful of salt.

[Illustration: PANCAKES.]

_Mode_.--Ascertain that the eggs are fresh; break each one separately in
a cup; whisk them well, put them into a basin, with the flour, salt, and
a few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly _smooth_ batter;
then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The proportion of this
latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs, &c. &c.;
but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of the consistency of
thick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire to get hot; let it be
delicately clean, or the pancakes will stick, and, when quite hot, put
into it a small piece of butter, allowing about 1/2 oz. to each pancake.
When it is melted, pour in the batter, about 1/2 teacupful to a pan 5
inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes, or until it is
nicely brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quantity of batter,
and so making the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning them (an
operation rather difficult to unskilful cooks) is obviated. When the
pancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar, roll it up in the
pan, and take it out with a large slice, and place it on a dish before
the fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficient are cooked for a dish;
then send them quickly to table, and continue to send in a further
quantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten almost immediately
they come from the frying-pan. The batter may be flavoured with a little
grated lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have preserve rolled in them
instead of sugar. Send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to table with them.
To render the pancakes very light, the yolks and whites of the eggs
should be beaten separately, and the whites added the last thing to the
batter before frying.

_Time_.--from 4 to 6 minutes for a pancake that does not require
turning; from 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one.

_Average cost_, for 3 persons, 6d.

_Sufficient._--Allow 3 eggs, with the other ingredients in proportion,
for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.


RICHER PANCAKES.

1468. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1
glass of sherry, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, flour.

_Mode_.--Ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh, beat them well,
strain and mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, wine, nutmeg, and as
much flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for ordinary
pancakes. Make the frying-pan hot, wipe it with a clean cloth, pour in
sufficient batter to make a thin pancake, and fry it for about 5
minutes. Dish the pancakes piled one above the other, strew sifted sugar
between each, and serve.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ to make 8 pancakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.


PEACH FRITTERS.

1469. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter: 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter,
1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk;--peaches, hot lard or clarified
dripping.

_Mode_.--Make a nice smooth, batter in the same manner as directed in
recipe No. 1393, and skin, halve, and stone the peaches, which should be
quite ripe; dip them in the batter, and fry the pieces in hot lard or
clarified dripping, which should be brought to the boiling-point before
the peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes will be required to fry
them, and, when done, drain them before the fire, and dish them on a
white d'oyley. Strew over plenty of pounded sugar, and serve.

_Time_.--From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters, 6 minutes to drain
them.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September.

[Illustration: PEACH.]

    PEACH.--The peach and nectarine are amongst the most delicious
    of our fruits, and are considered as varieties of the same
    species produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by
    a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a
    proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches
    in one part and nectarines in another; and even a single fruit
    has had down on one side and the other smooth. The trees are
    almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that
    the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows
    naturally, from which the name of Persica was bestowed upon it
    by the Romans; and some modern botanists apply this as the
    generic name, separating them from _Amygdalus_, or Almond, to
    which Linnaeus had united them. Although they are not tropical,
    they require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfection:
    hence they seldom ripen in this country, in ordinary seasons,
    without the use of walls or glass; consequently, they bear a
    high price. In a good peach, the flesh is firm, the skin thin,
    of a deep bright colour next the sun and of a yellowish green
    next to the wall; the pulp is yellowish, full of
    highly-flavoured juice, the fleshy part thick, and the stone
    small. Too much down is a sign of inferior quality. This fruit
    is much used at the dessert, and makes a delicious preserve.

PEARS A L'ALLEMANDE.

1470. INGREDIENTS.--6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, 2 oz. of butter, the
yolk of an egg, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.

_Mode_.--Peel and cut the pears into any form that may be preferred, and
steep them in cold water to prevent them turning black; put them into a
saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, and boil them with
the butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely, until tender; then
brush the pears over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle them with sifted
sugar, and arrange them on a dish. Add the gelatine to the syrup, boil
it up quickly for about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, and let it
remain until set. The syrup may be coloured with a little prepared
cochineal, which would very much improve the appearance of the dish.

_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to stew the pears; 5 minutes to
boil the syrup.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for a large dish.

_Seasonable_ from August to February.


MOULDED PEARS.

1471. INGREDIENTS.--4 large pears or 6 small ones, 8 cloves, sugar to
taste, water, a small piece of cinnamon, 1/4 pint of raisin wine, a
strip of lemon-peel, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.

_Mode_.--Peel and cut the pears into quarters; put them into a jar with
3/4 pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten the
whole nicely; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in a
gentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. When
done, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well wetted, and
boil 1/2 pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the wine,
lemon-peel, strained juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients boil
quickly for 5 minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears; put
the mould in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, turn it out on a
glass dish.

_Time_.--2 hours to bake the pears in a cool oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ from August to February


PINEAPPLE FRITTERS.

(_An elegant Dish_.)

1472. INGREDIENTS.--A small pineapple, a small wineglassful of brandy or
liqueur, 2 oz. of sifted sugar; batter as for apple fritters No. 1393.

_Mode_.--This elegant dish, although it may appear extravagant, is
really not so if made when pineapples are plentiful. We receive them now
in such large quantities from the West Indies, that at times they may be
purchased at an exceedingly low rate: it would not, of course, be
economical to use the pines which are grown in our English pineries for
the purposes of fritters. Pare the pine with as little waste as
possible, cut it into rather thin slices, and soak these slices in the
above proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for 4 hours;
then make a batter the same as for apple fritters, substituting cream
for the milk, and using a smaller quantity of flour; and, when this is
ready, dip in the pieces of pine, and fry them in boiling lard from 5 to
8 minutes; turn them when sufficiently brown on one side, and, when
done, drain them from the lard before the fire, dish them on a white
d'oyley, strew over them sifted sugar, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--5 to 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, when cheap and plentiful, 1s. 6d. for the pine.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July and August.

    PINEAPPLE.--The pineapple has not been known in Europe above two
    hundred years, and has not been cultivated in England much above
    a century. It is stated that the first pineapples raised in
    Europe were by M. La Cour, of Leyden, about the middle of the
    17th century; and it is said to have been first cultivated in
    England by Sir Matthew Decker, of Richmond. In Kensington
    Palace, there is a picture in which Charles II. is represented
    as receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is
    presenting it on his knees.

PLAIN FRITTERS.

1473. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of flour, 3 eggs, 1/3 pint of milk.

[Illustration: STAR FRITTER-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of the
milk; stir in the eggs, which should be well whisked, and then the
remainder of the milk; boat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter, and
should it be found not quite thin enough, add two or three
tablespoonfuls more milk. Have ready a frying-pan, with plenty of
boiling lard in it; drop in rather more than a tablespoonful at a time
of the batter, and fry the fritters a nice brown, turning them when
sufficiently cooked on one side. Drain them well from the greasy
moisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-paper before the
fire; dish them on a white d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and
send to table with them a cut lemon and plenty of pounded sugar.

_Time_.--From 6 to 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


POTATO FRITTERS.

1474. INGREDIENTS.--2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
2 ditto of raisin or sweet wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 4
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, hot lard.

[Illustration: SCROLL FRITTER-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes, and beat them up lightly with a fork, but do
not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat the eggs well,
leaving out one of the whites; add the other ingredients, and beat all
together for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is extremely
light. Put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop a
tablespoonful of the batter at a time into it, and fry the fritters a
nice brown. Serve them with the following sauce:--A glass of sherry
mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and sufficient white sugar to
sweeten the whole nicely. Warm these ingredients, and serve the sauce
separately in a tureen. The fritters should be neatly dished on a white
d'oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled over them; and they should be well
drained on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire previously to being
dished.

_Time_.--From 6 to 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


RASPBERRY CREAM.

1475. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of cream, 1-1/2 oz. of
isinglass, raspberry jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

[Illustration: RASPBERRY CREAM MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for 1/4 hour, or
until the latter is melted, and strain it through a hair sieve into a
basin. Let it cool a little; then add to it sufficient raspberry jelly,
which, when melted, would make 1/3 pint, and stir well till the
ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If not sufficiently sweet, add a
little pounded sugar with the brandy; whisk the mixture well until
nearly cold, put it into a well-oiled mould, and set it in a cool place
till perfectly set. Raspberry jam may be substituted for the jelly, but
must be melted, and rubbed through a sieve, to free it from seeds: in
summer, the juice of the fresh fruit may be used, by slightly mashing it
with a wooden spoon, and sprinkling sugar over it; the juice that flows
from the fruit should then be used for mixing with the cream. If the
colour should not be very good, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be
added to improve its appearance. (_See_ coloured plate T1.)

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the cream and isinglass.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 3s.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_, with jelly, at any time.

_Note_.--Strawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner,
substituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry.


RICE BLANCMANGE.

1476. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of ground rice, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 oz.
of fresh butter, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of lemon-peel, essence of
almonds or vanilla, or laurel-leaves.

_Mode_.--Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about 1/2 pint of the
milk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, with the sugar, butter, and
whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred; bring the milk to
the boiling-point, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for about
10 minutes, or until it comes easily away from the saucepan, keeping it
well stirred the whole time. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil; pour in
the rice, and let it get perfectly set, when it should turn out quite
easily; garnish it with jam, or pour round a compôte of any kind of
fruit, just before it is sent to table. This blancmange is better for
being made the day before it is wanted, as it then has time to become
firm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, steep 3 of them in the
milk, and take them out before the rice is added: about 8 drops of
essence of almonds, or from 12 to 16 drops of essence of vanilla, would
be required to flavour the above proportion of milk.

_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes to boil the rice.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


RICE CROQUETTES.

1477. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 6 oz. of pounded
sugar, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds, egg and
bread crumbs, hot lard.

_Mode_.--Put the rice, milk, and sugar into a saucepan, and let the
former gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is dried
up; and just before the rice is done, stir in a few drops of essence of
any of the above flavourings. Let the rice get cold; then form it into
small round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, sprinkle them with bread
crumbs, and fry them in boiling lard for about 10 minutes, turning them
about, that they may get equally browned. Drain the greasy moisture from
them, by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute or
two; pile them on a white d'oyley, and send them quickly to table. A
small piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the middle of each
croquette, which adds very much to the flavour of this favourite dish.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice; about 10 minutes to fry
the croquettes.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 croquettes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


RICE FRITTERS.

1478. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 3 oz. of sugar, 1
oz. of fresh butter 6 oz. of orange marmalade, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Swell the rice in the milk, with the sugar and butter, over a
slow fire until it is perfectly tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour.
When the rice is done, strain away the milk, should there be any left,
and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs; stir the whole over
the fire until the eggs are set; then spread the mixture on a dish to
the thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather thicker. When it is perfectly
cold, cut it into long strips, dip them in a batter the same as for
apple fritters, and fry them a nice brown. Dish them on a white d'oyley,
strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes to fry
the fritters.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 fritters.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


RICE SNOWBALLS. (_A pretty dish for Juvenile Suppers_.)

1479. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of
essence of almonds, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard made by recipe No.
1423.

_Mode_.--Boil the rice in the milk, with sugar and a flavouring of
essence of almonds, until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, a
little more milk, should it dry away too much. When the rice is quite
soft, put it into teacups, or _small_ round jars, and let it remain
until cold; then turn the rice out on a deep glass dish, pour over a
custard made by recipe No. 1423, and, on the top of each ball place a
small piece of bright-coloured preserve or jelly. Lemon-peel or vanilla
may be boiled with the rice instead of the essence of almonds, when
either of these is preferred; but the flavouring of the custard must
correspond with that of the rice.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice in the milk.

_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 children.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


RICE SOUFFLE.

1480. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, 1 pint of milk, 5
eggs, pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of lemon-rind, vanilla, coffee,
chocolate, or anything that may be preferred, a piece of butter the size
of a walnut.

_Mode_.--Mix the ground rice with 6 tablespoonfuls of the milk quite
smoothly, and put it into a saucepan with the remainder of the milk and
butter, and keep stirring it over the fire for about 1/4 hour, or until
the mixture thickens. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs,
beat the former in a basin, and stir to them the rice and sufficient
pounded sugar to sweeten the soufflé; but add this latter ingredient as
sparingly as possible, as, the less sugar there is used, the lighter
will be the soufflé. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth
or snow; mix them with the other preparation, and pour the whole into a
soufflé-dish, and put it instantly into the oven; bake it about 1/2 hour
in a moderate oven; take it out, hold a salamander or hot shovel over
the top, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and send the soufflé to table in
the dish it was baked in, either with a napkin pinned round, or inclosed
in a more ornamental dish. The excellence of this fashionable dish
entirely depends on the proper whisking of the whites of the eggs, the
manner of baking, and the expedition with which it is sent to table.
Soufflés should be served _instantly_ from the oven, or they will sink,
and be nothing more than an ordinary pudding.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE A SOUFFLE.

1481. INGREDIENTS.--3 heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour, rice-flour,
arrowroot, or tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of butter
the size of a walnut, sifted sugar to taste, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt
flavouring.

_Mode_.--Mix the potato-flour, or whichever one of the above ingredients
is used, with a little of the milk; put it into a saucepan, with the
remainder of the milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient pounded sugar to
sweeten the whole nicely. Stir these ingredients over the fire until the
mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, and let it cool a little.
Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the latter, and
stir them into the soufflé batter. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to
the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the excellence of the
dish; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essence
of any flavouring that may be preferred; such as vanilla, lemon, orange,
ginger, &c. &c. Pour the batter into a soufflé-dish, put it immediately
into the oven, and bake for about 1/2 hour; then take it out, put the
dish into another more ornamental one, such as is made for the purpose;
hold a salamander or hot shovel over the soufflé, strew it with sifted
sugar, and send it instantly to table. The secret of making a soufflé
well, is to have the eggs well whisked, but particularly the whites, the
oven not too hot, and to send it to table the moment it comes from the
oven. If the soufflé be ever so well made, and it is allowed to stand
before being sent to table, its appearance and goodness will be entirely
spoiled. Soufflés may be flavoured in various ways, but must be named
accordingly. Vanilla is one of the most delicate and recherché
flavourings that can be used for this very fashionable dish.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour in the oven; 2 or 3 minutes to hold the
salamander over.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SNOW EGGS, or OEUFS A LA NEIGE.

(_A very pretty Supper Dish_.)

1482. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, pounded sugar to taste,
flavouring of vanilla, lemon-rind, or orange-flower water.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan with sufficient sugar to sweeten
it nicely, and the rind of 1/2 lemon. Let this steep by the side of the
fire for 1/2 hour, when take out the peel; separate the whites from the
yolks of the eggs, and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff froth, or
until there is no liquid remaining; bring the milk to the boiling-point,
and drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a time, and keep turning the
eggs until sufficiently cooked. Then place them on a glass dish, beat up
the yolks of the eggs, stir to them the milk, add a little more sugar,
and strain this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of
boiling water, and stir it one way until the mixture thickens, but do
not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Pour this custard over the
eggs, when they should rise to the surface. They make an exceedingly
pretty addition to a supper, and should be put in a cold place after
being made. When they are flavoured with vanilla or orange-flower water,
it is not necessary to steep the milk. A few drops of the essence of
either may be poured in the milk just before the whites are poached. In
making the custard, a little more flavouring and sugar should always be
added.

_Time_.--About 2 minutes to poach the whites; 8 minutes to stir the
custard.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


STONE CREAM OF TOUS LES MOIS.

1483. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of preserve, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of lump
sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of tous les mois, 3 drops of essence of
cloves, 3 drops of almond-flavouring.

_Mode_.--Place the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish; put the milk
into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and make it boil. Mix to a smooth
batter the tous les mois, with a very little cold milk; stir it briskly
into the boiling milk, add the flavouring, and simmer for 2 minutes.
When rather cool, but before turning solid, pour the cream over the jam,
and ornament it with strips of red-currant jelly or preserved fruit.

_Time_.--2 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


STRAWBERRY JELLY.

1484. INGREDIENTS.--Strawberries, pounded sugar; to every pint of juice
allow 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them well
with a wooden spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them
nicely, and let them remain for 1 hour, that the juice may be extracted;
then add 1/2 pint of water to every pint of juice. Strain the
strawberry-juice and water through a bag; measure it, and to every pint
allow 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, melted and clarified in 1/4 pint of water.
Mix this with the juice; put the jelly into a mould, and set the mould
in ice. A little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice improves the
flavour of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it must be well
strained before it is put to the other ingredients, or it will make the
jelly muddy.

_Time_.--1 hour to draw the juice.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of jelly for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.


SWISS CREAM.

1485. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of macaroons or 6 small sponge-cakes,
sherry, 1 pint of cream, 5 oz. of lump sugar, 2 large tablespoonfuls of
arrowroot, the rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 tablespoonfuls
of milk.

_Mode_.--Lay the macaroons or sponge-cakes in a glass dish, and pour
over them as much sherry as will cover them, or sufficient to soak them
well. Put the cream into a lined saucepan, with the sugar and
lemon-rind, and let it remain by the side of the fire until the cream is
well flavoured, when take out the lemon-rind. Mix the arrowroot smoothly
with the cold milk; add this to the cream, and let it boil gently for
about 3 minutes, keeping it well stirred. Take it off the fire, stir
till nearly cold, when add the lemon-juice, and pour the whole over the
cakes. Garnish the cream with strips of angelica, or candied citron cut
thin, or bright-coloured jelly or preserve. This cream is exceedingly
delicious, flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon: when this flavouring
is used, the sherry may be omitted, and the mixture poured over the
_dry_ cakes.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind; 5 minutes to boil the
cream.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE SYLLABUB.

1486. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of sherry or white wine, 1/2 grated nutmeg,
sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of milk.

_Mode_.--Put the wine into a bowl, with the grated nutmeg and plenty of
pounded sugar, and milk into it the above proportion of milk frothed up.
Clouted cream may be laid on the top, with pounded cinnamon or nutmeg
and sugar; and a little brandy may be added to the wine before the milk
is put in. In some counties, cider is substituted for the wine: when
this is used, brandy must always be added. Warm milk may be poured on
from a spouted jug or teapot; but it must be held very high.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TIPSY CAKE.

1487. INGREDIENTS.--1 moulded sponge-or Savoy-cake, sufficient sweet
wine or sherry to soak it, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 2 oz. of sweet
almonds, 1 pint of rich custard.

[Illustration: TIPSY CAKE.]

_Mode_.--Procure a cake that is three or four days old,--either sponge,
Savoy, or rice answering for the purpose of a tipsy cake. Cut the bottom
of the cake level, to make it stand firm in the dish; make a small hole
in the centre, and pour in and over the cake sufficient sweet wine or
sherry, mixed with the above proportion of brandy, to soak it nicely.
When the cake is well soaked, blanch and cut the almonds into strips,
stick them all over the cake, and pour round it a good custard, made by
recipe No. 1423, allowing 8 eggs instead of 5 to the pint of milk. The
cakes are sometimes crumbled and soaked, and a whipped cream heaped over
them, the same as for trifles.

_Time_.--About 2 hours to soak the cake. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    ALMOND.--The almond-tree is a native of warmer climates than
    Britain, and is indigenous to the northern parts of Africa and
    Asia; but it is now commonly cultivated in Italy, Spain, and the
    south of France. It is not usually grown in Britain, and the
    fruit seldom ripens in this country: it is much admired for the
    beauty of its blossoms. In the form of its leaves and blossoms
    it strongly resembles the peach-tree, and is included in the
    same genus by botanists; but the fruit, instead of presenting a
    delicious pulp like the peach, shrivels up as it ripens, and
    becomes only a tough coriaceous covering to the stone inclosing
    the eatable kernel, which is surrounded by a thin bitter skin.
    It flowers early in the spring, and produces fruit in August.
    There are two sorts of almonds,--sweet and bitter; but they are
    considered to be only varieties of the species; and though the
    qualities of the kernels are very different, they are not
    distinguishable by their appearance.

AN EASY WAY OF MAKING A TIPSY CAKE.

1488. INGREDIENTS.--12 stale small sponge-cakes, raisin wine, 1/2 lb. of
jam, 1 pint of custard No. 1423.

_Mode_.--Soak the sponge-cakes, which should be stale (on this account
they should be cheaper), in a little raisin wine; arrange them on a deep
glass dish in four layers, putting a layer of jam between each, and pour
round them a pint of custard, made by recipe No. 1423, decorating the
top with cut preserved fruit.

_Time_.--2 hours to soak the cakes. Average cost, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE A TRIFLE.

1489. INGREDIENTS.--For the whip, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of pounded
sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, a small glass of sherry or raisin wine. For
the trifle, 1 pint of custard, made with 8 eggs to a pint of milk; 6
small sponge-cakes, or 6 slices of sponge-cake; 12 macaroons, 2 dozen
ratafias, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a layer of
raspberry or strawberry jam, 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, 6
tablespoonfuls of brandy.

[Illustration: TRIFLE.]

_Mode_.--The whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made the
day before it is required for table, as the flavour is better, and it is
much more solid than when prepared the same day. Put into a large bowl
the pounded sugar, the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a
stiff froth, a glass of sherry or sweet wine, and the cream. Whisk these
ingredients well in a cool place, and take off the froth with a skimmer
as fast as it rises, and put it on a sieve to drain; continue the
whisking till there is sufficient of the whip, which must be put away in
a cool place to drain. The next day, place the sponge-cakes, macaroons,
and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over them 1/2 pint of
sherry or sweet wine, mixed with 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, and, should
this proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient, add a little
more, as the cakes should be well soaked. Over the cakes put the grated
lemon-rind, the sweet almonds, blanched and cut into strips, and a layer
of raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard by recipe No. 1423,
using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of milk, and let this cool a
little; then pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip being made the day
previously, and the trifle prepared, there remains nothing to do now but
heap the whip lightly over the top: this should stand as high as
possible, and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly,
crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers; the small coloured comfits are
sometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, but they are now
considered rather old-fashioned. (See coloured plate, V1.)

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 5s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ at any time.


VANILLA CREAM.

1490. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar,
1 oz. of isinglass, flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla.

[Illustration: VANILLA-CREAM MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, and let it get hot over
a slow fire; beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add gradually the
sweetened milk; flavour the whole with essence of vanilla, put the
mixture into a jug, and place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water.
Stir the contents with a wooden spoon one way until the mixture
thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will be full of lumps. Take
it off the fire; stir in the isinglass, which should be previously
dissolved in about 1/4 pint of water, and boiled for 2 or 3 minutes;
pour the cream into an oiled mould, put it in a cool place to set, and
turn it out carefully on a dish. Instead of using the essence of
vanilla, a pod may be boiled in the milk instead, until the flavour is
well extracted. A pod, or a pod and a half, will be found sufficient for
the above proportion of ingredients.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the mixture.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    VANILLE or VANILLA, is the fruit of the vanillier, a parasitical
    herbaceous plant, which flourishes in Brazil, Mexico, and Peru.
    The fruit is a long capsule, thick and fleshy. Certain species
    of this fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and
    flavour. Vanilla is principally imported from Mexico. The
    capsules for export are always picked at perfect maturity. The
    essence is the form in which it is used generally and most
    conveniently. Its properties are stimulating and exciting. It is
    in daily use for ices, chocolates, and flavouring confections
    generally.

VICTORIA SANDWICHES.

1491. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs; their weight in pounded sugar, butter, and
flour; 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, a layer of any kind of jam or
marmalade.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour and pounded
sugar; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, which
should be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has been well
beaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in the
batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool,
spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, place over it
the other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly together, and then
cut it into long finger-pieces; pile them in crossbars on a glass dish,
and serve.

_Time_.--20 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


WHIPPED CREAM, for putting on Trifles, serving in Glasses, &c.

1492. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of cream allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar,
1 glass of sherry or any kind of sweet white wine, the rind of 1/2
lemon, the white of 1 egg.

[Illustration: PASTRY LEAF.]

_Mode_.--Rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar until
quite fine, and beat up the white of the egg until quite stiff; put the
cream into a large bowl, with the sugar, wine, and beaten egg, and whip
it to a froth; as fast as the froth rises, take it off with a skimmer,
and put it on a sieve to drain, in a cool place. This should be made the
day before it is wanted, as the whip is then so much firmer. The cream
should be whipped in a cool place, and in summer, over ice, if it is
obtainable. A plain whipped cream may be served on a glass dish, and
garnished with strips of angelica, or pastry leaves, or pieces of
bright-coloured jelly: it makes a very pretty addition to the
supper-table.

_Time_.--About 1 hour to whip the cream.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 dish or 1 trifle.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


WHIPPED SYLLABUBS.

1493. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of cream, 1/4 pint of sherry, half that
quantity of brandy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, a little grated nutmeg, 3
oz. of pounded sugar, whipped cream the same as for trifle No. 1489.

_Mode_.--Mix all the ingredients together, put the syllabub into
glasses, and over the top of them heap a little whipped cream, made in
the same manner as for trifle No. 1489. Solid syllabub is made by
whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth, and putting it in the
glasses, without the whipped cream at the top.

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 8 or 9 glasses.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


THE CURE'S OMELET.

"Every one knows," says Brillat Savarin, in his "Physiology of Taste,"
"that for twenty years Madame Récamier was the most beautiful woman in
Paris. It is also well known that she was exceedingly charitable, and
took a great interest in every benevolent work. Wishing to consult the
Curé of ---- respecting the working of an institution, she went to his
house at five o'clock in the afternoon, and was much astonished at
finding him already at his dinner-table.

"Madame Récamier wished to retire, but the Curé would not hear of it. A
neat white cloth covered the table; some good old wine sparkled in a
crystal decanter; the porcelain was of the best; the plates had heaters
of boiling water beneath them; a neatly-costumed maid-servant was in
attendance. The repast was a compromise between frugality and luxury.
The crawfish-soup had just been removed, and there was on the table a
salmon-trout, an omelet, and a salad.

"'My dinner will tell you,' said the worthy Curé, with a smile, 'that it
is fast-day, according to our Church's regulations.' Madame Récamier and
her host attacked the trout, the sauce served with which betrayed a
skilful hand, the countenance of the Curé the while showing
satisfaction.

"And now they fell upon the omelet, which was round, sufficiently thick,
and cooked, so to speak, to a hair's-breadth.

"As the spoon entered the omelet, a thick rich juice issued from it,
pleasant to the eye as well as to the smell; the dish became full of it;
and our fair friend owns that, between the perfume and the sight, it
made her mouth water.

"'It is an _omelette au thon_' (that is to say, a tunny omelet), said
the Curé, noticing, with the greatest delight, the emotion of Madame
Récamier, 'and few people taste it without lavishing praises on it.'

"'It surprises me not at all,' returned the beauty; 'never has so
enticing an omelet met my gaze at any of our lay tables.'

"'My cook understands them well, I think.'

"'Yes,' added Madame, 'I never ate anything so delightful.'"

Then came the salad, which Savarin recommends to all who place
confidence in him. It refreshes without exciting; and he has a theory
that it makes people younger.

Amidst pleasant converse the dessert arrived. It consisted of three
apples, cheese, and a plate of preserves; and then upon a little round
table was served the Mocha coffee, for which France has been, and is, so
justly famous.

"'I never,' said the Curé, 'take spirits; I always offer liqueurs to my
guests but reserve the use of them, myself, to my old age, if it should
please Providence to grant me that.'

"Finally, the charming Madame Récamier took her leave, and told all her
friends of the delicious omelet which she had seen and partaken of."

And Brillat Savarin, in his capacity as the Layard of the concealed
treasures of Gastronomia, has succeeded in withdrawing from obscurity
the details of the preparation of which so much had been said, and which
he imagines to be as wholesome as it was agreeable.

Here follows the recipe:--

OMELETTE AU THON.

1494. Take, for 6 persons, the roes of 2 carp; [Footnote: An American
writer says he has followed this recipe, substituting pike, shad, &c.,
in the place of carp, and can recommend all these also, with a quiet
conscience. Any fish, indeed, may be used with success.] bleach them, by
putting them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water slightly salted. Take a
piece of fresh tunny about the size of a hen's egg, to which add a small
shalot already chopped; hash up together the roe and the tunny, so as to
mix them well, and throw the whole into a saucepan, with a sufficient
quantity of very good butter: whip it up until the butter is melted!
This constitutes the specialty of the omelet. Take a second piece of
butter, _à discrétion_, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in a
long-shaped dish destined to receive the omelet; squeeze the juice of a
lemon over it, and place it on hot embers. Beat up 12 eggs (the fresher
the better); throw up the sauté of roe and tunny, stirring it so as to
mix all well together; then make your omelet in the usual manner,
endeavouring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread it carefully
on the dish prepared for it, and serve at once. This dish ought to be
reserved for recherché déjeûners, or for assemblies where amateurs meet
who know how to eat well; washed down with a good old wine, it will work
wonders.

_Note_.--The roe and the tunny must be beaten up (sauté) without
allowing them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would prevent
them mixing well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed towards the
centre, to allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may be helped with a
spoon. The dish ought to be slightly heated, otherwise the cold china
will extract all the heat from the omelet.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXX.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ICES, AND DESSERT
DISHES.


PRESERVES.

1495. From the nature of vegetable substances, and chiefly from their
not passing so rapidly into the putrescent state as animal bodies, the
mode of preserving them is somewhat different, although the general
principles are the same. All the means of preservation are put in
practice occasionally for fruits and the various parts of vegetables,
according to the nature of the species, the climate, the uses to which
they are applied, &c. Some are dried, as nuts, raisins, sweet herbs,
&c.; others are preserved by means of sugar, such as many fruits whose
delicate juices would be lost by drying; some are preserved by means of
vinegar, and chiefly used as condiments or pickles; a few also by
salting, as French beans; while others are preserved in spirits. We
have, however, in this place to treat of the best methods of preserving
fruits. Fruit is a most important item in the economy of health; the
epicurean can scarcely be said to have any luxuries without it;
therefore, as it is so invaluable, when we cannot have it fresh, we must
have it preserved. It has long been a desideratum to preserve fruits by
some cheap method, yet by such as would keep them fit for the various
culinary purposes, as making tarts and other similar dishes. The expense
of preserving them with sugar is a serious objection; for, except the
sugar is used in considerable quantities, the success is very uncertain.
Sugar also overpowers and destroys the sub-acid taste so desirable in
many fruits: these which are preserved in this manner are chiefly
intended for the dessert. Fruits intended for preservation should be
gathered in the morning, in dry weather, with the morning sun upon them,
if possible; they will then have their fullest flavour, and keep in good
condition longer than when gathered at any other time. Until fruit can
be used, it should be placed in the dairy, an ice-house, or a
refrigerator. In an icehouse it will remain fresh and plump for several
days. Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather will soon be mildewed, and
be of no service for preserves.

1496. Having secured the first and most important contribution to the
manufacture of preserves,--the fruit, the next consideration is the
preparation of the syrup in which the fruit is to be suspended; and this
requires much care. In the confectioner's art there is a great nicety in
proportioning the degree of concentration of the syrup very exactly to
each particular case; and they know this by signs, and express it by
certain technical terms. But to distinguish these properly requires very
great attention and considerable experience. The principal thing to be
acquainted with is the fact, that, in proportion as the syrup is longer
boiled, its water will become evaporated, and its consistency will be
thicker. Great care must be taken in the management of the fire, that
the syrup does not boil over, and that the boiling is not carried to
such an extent as to burn the sugar.

1497. The first degree of consistency is called _the thread_, which is
subdivided into the little and great thread. If you dip the finger into
the syrup and apply it to the thumb, the tenacity of the syrup will, on
separating the finger and thumb, afford a thread, which shortly breaks:
this is the little thread. If the thread, from the greater tenacity,
and, consequently, greater strength of the syrup, admits of a greater
extension of the finger and thumb, it is called the great thread. There
are half a dozen other terms and experiments for testing the various
thickness of the boiling sugar towards the consistency called _caramel_;
but that degree of sugar-boiling belongs to the confectioner. A solution
of sugar prepared by dissolving two parts of double-refined sugar (the
best sugar is the most economical for preserves) in one of water, and
boiling this a little, affords a syrup of the right degree of strength,
and which neither ferments nor crystallizes. This appears to be the
degree called _smooth_ by the confectioners, and is proper to be used
for the purposes of preserves. The syrup employed should sometimes be
clarified, which is done in the following manner:--Dissolve 2 lbs. of
loaf sugar in a pint of water; add to this solution the white of an egg,
and beat it well. Put the preserving-pan upon the fire with the
solution; stir it with a wooden spatula, and, when it begins to swell
and boil up, throw in some cold water or a little oil, to damp the
boiling; for, as it rises suddenly, if it should boil over, it would
take fire, being of a very inflammable nature. Let it boil up again;
then take it off, and remove carefully the scum that has risen. Boil the
solution again, throw in a little more cold water, remove the scum, and
so on for three or four times successively; then strain it. It is
considered to be sufficiently boiled when some taken up in a spoon pours
out like oil.

1498. Although sugar passes so easily into the state of fermentation,
and is, in fact, the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous
stage of that process, yet it will not ferment at all if the quantity be
sufficient to constitute a very strong syrup: hence, syrups are used to
preserve fruits and other vegetable substances from the changes they
would undergo if left to themselves. Before sugar was in use, honey was
employed to preserve many vegetable productions, though this substance
has now given way to the juice of the sugar-cane.

1499. The fruits that are the most fit for preservation in syrup are,
apricots, peaches, nectarines, apples, greengages, plums of all kinds,
and pears. As an example, take some apricots not too ripe, make a small
slit at the stem end, and push out the stone; simmer them in water till
they are softened and about half done, and afterwards throw them into
cold water. When they have cooled, take them out and drain them. Put the
apricots into the pie-serving-pan with sufficient syrup to cover them;
let them boil up three or four times, and then skim them; remove them
from the fire, pour them into an earthen pan, and let them cool till
next day. Boil them up three days successively, skimming each time, and
they will then be finished and in a state fit to be put into pots for
use. After each bailing, it is proper to examine into the state of the
syrup when cold; if too thin, it will bear additional boiling; if too
thick, it may be lowered with more syrup of the usual standard. The
reason why the fruit is emptied out of the preserving-pan into an
earthen pan is, that the acid of the fruit acts upon the copper, of
which the preserving-pans are usually made. From this example the
process of preserving fruits by syrup will be easily comprehended. The
first object is to soften the fruit by blanching or boiling it in water,
in order that the syrup by which it is preserved may penetrate through
its substance.

1500. Many fruits, when preserved by boiling, lose much of their
peculiar and delicate flavour, as, for instance, pine-apples; and this
inconvenience may, in some instances, be remedied by preserving them
without heat. Cut the fruit in slices about one fifth of an inch thick,
strew powdered loaf sugar an eighth of an inch thick on the bottom of a
jar, and put the slices on it. Put more sugar on this, and then another
layer of the slices, and so on till the jar is full. Place the jar with
the fruit up to the neck in boiling water, and keep it there till the
sugar is completely dissolved, which may take half an hour, removing the
scum as it rises. Lastly, tie a wet bladder over the mouth of the jar,
or cork and wax it.

1501. Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be
converted into dry preserves, by first draining them from the syrup, and
then drying them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them a
quantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate the
fruit, while the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate. They should
be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned every six or eight
hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time they are
turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept in a dry situation, in drawers
or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, in
bunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavour. In this way it
is, also, that orange and lemon chips are preserved.

1502. Marmalades, jams, and fruit pastes are of the same nature, and are
now in very general request. They are prepared without difficulty, by
attending to a very few directions; they are somewhat expensive, but may
be kept without spoiling for a considerable time. Marmalades and jams
differ little from each other: they are preserves of a half-liquid
consistency, made by boiling the pulp of fruits, and sometimes part of
the rinds, with sugar. The appellation of marmalade is applied to those
confitures which are composed of the firmer fruits, as pineapples or the
rinds of oranges; whereas jams are made of the more juicy berries, such
as strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, &c. Fruit pastes are
a kind of marmalades, consisting of the pulp of fruits, first evaporated
to a proper consistency, and afterwards boiled with sugar. The mixture
is then poured into a mould, or spread on sheets of tin, and
subsequently dried in the oven or stove till it has acquired the state
of a paste. From a sheet of this paste, strips may be cut and formed
into any shape that may be desired, as knots, rings, &c. Jams require
the same care and attention in the boiling as marmalade; the slightest
degree of burning communicates a disagreeable empyreumatic taste, and if
they are not boiled sufficiently, they will not keep. That they may
keep, it is necessary not to be sparing of sugar.

1503. In all the operations for preserve-making, when the preserving-pan
is used, it should not be placed on the fire, but on a trivet, unless
the jam is made on a hot plate, when this is not necessary. If the pan
is placed close on to the fire, the preserve is very liable to burn, and
the colour and flavour be consequently spoiled.

1504. Fruit jellies are compounds of the juices of fruits combined with
sugar, concentrated, by boiling, to such a consistency that the liquid,
upon cooling, assumes the form of a tremulous jelly.

1505. Before fruits are candied, they must first be boiled in syrup,
after which they are taken out and dried on a stove, or before the fire;
the syrup is then to be concentrated, or boiled to a candy height, and
the fruit dipped in it, and again laid on the stove to dry and candy:
they are then to be put into boxes, and kept dry.

1506. Conserves consist of fresh vegetable matters beat into a uniform
mass with refined sugar, and they are intended to preserve the virtues
and properties of recent flowers, leaves, roots, peels, or fruits,
unaltered, and as near as possible to what they were when fresh
gathered, and to give them an agreeable taste.

1507. The last-mentioned, but not the least-important preparation of
fruit, is the _compôte,_ a confiture made at the moment of need, and
with much less sugar than would be ordinarily put to preserves. They are
most wholesome things, suitable to most stomachs which cannot
accommodate themselves to raw fruit or a large portion of sugar: they
are the happy medium, and far better than ordinary stewed fruit.


CONFECTIONARY.

1508. In speaking of confectionary, it should be remarked that all the
various preparations above named come, strictly speaking, under that
head; for the various fruits, flowers, herbs, roots, and juices, which,
when boiled with sugar, were formerly employed in pharmacy as well as
for sweetmeats, were called _confections_, from the Latin word
_conficere_, 'to make up;' but the term confectionary embraces a very
large class indeed of sweet food, many kinds of which should not be
attempted in the ordinary cuisine. The thousand and one ornamental
dishes that adorn the tables of the wealthy should be purchased from the
confectioner: they cannot profitably be made at home. Apart from these,
cakes, biscuits, and tarts, &c., the class of sweetmeats called
confections may be thus classified:--1. Liquid confects, or fruits
either whole or in pieces, preserved by being immersed in a fluid
transparent syrup; as the liquid confects of apricots, green citrons,
and many foreign fruits. 2. Dry confects are those which, after having
been boiled in the syrup, are taken out and put to dry in an oven, as
citron and orange-peel, &c. 3. Marmalade, jams, and pastes, a kind of
soft compounds made of the pulp of fruits or other vegetable substances,
beat up with sugar or honey; such as oranges, apricots, pears, &c. 4.
Jellies are the juices of fruits boiled with sugar to a pretty thick
consistency, so as, upon cooling, to form a trembling jelly; as currant,
gooseberry, apple jelly, &c. 5. Conserves are a kind of dry confects,
made by beating up flowers, fruits, &c., with sugar, not dissolved. 6.
Candies are fruits candied over with sugar after having been boiled in
the syrup.


DESSERT DISHES.

1509. With moderns the dessert is not so profuse, nor does it hold the
same relationship to the dinner that it held with the ancients,--the
Romans more especially. On ivory tables they would spread hundreds of
different kinds of raw, cooked, and preserved fruits, tarts and cakes,
as substitutes for the more substantial comestibles with which the
guests were satiated. However, as late as the reigns of our two last
Georges, fabulous sums were often expended upon fanciful desserts. The
dessert certainly repays, in its general effect, the expenditure upon it
of much pains; and it may be said, that if there be any poetry at all in
meals, or the process of feeding, there is poetry in the dessert, the
materials for which should be selected with taste, and, of course, must
depend, in a great measure, upon the season. Pines, melons, grapes,
peaches, nectarines, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, oranges,
almonds, raisins, figs, walnuts, filberts, medlars, cherries, &c. &c.,
all kinds of dried fruits, and choice and delicately-flavoured cakes and
biscuits, make up the dessert, together with the most costly and
_recherché_ wines. The shape of the dishes varies at different periods,
the prevailing fashion at present being oval and circular dishes on
stems. The patterns and colours are also subject to changes of fashion;
some persons selecting china, chaste in pattern and colour; others,
elegantly-shaped glass dishes on stems, with gilt edges. The beauty of
the dessert services at the tables of the wealthy tends to enhance the
splendour of the plate. The general mode of putting a dessert on table,
now the elegant tazzas are fashionable, is, to place them down the
middle of the table, a tall and short dish alternately; the fresh fruits
being arranged on the tall dishes, and dried fruits, bon-bons, &c., on
small round or oval glass plates. The garnishing needs especial
attention, as the contrast of the brilliant-coloured fruits with
nicely-arranged foliage is very charming. The garnish _par excellence_
for dessert is the ice-plant; its crystallized dewdrops producing a
marvellous effect in the height of summer, giving a most inviting sense
of coolness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow,
strawberry, and vine leaves have a pleasing effect; and for winter
desserts, the bay, cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. In town, the
expense and difficulty of obtaining natural foliage is great, but paper
and composite leaves are to be purchased at an almost nominal price.
Mixed fruits of the larger sort are now frequently served on one dish.
This mode admits of the display of much taste in the arrangement of the
fruit: for instance, a pine in the centre of the dish, surrounded with
large plums of various sorts and colours, mixed with pears, rosy-cheeked
apples, all arranged with a due regard to colour, have a very good
effect. Again, apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes,
hanging from the border of the dish in a _négligé_ sort of manner, with
a large bunch of the same fruit lying on the top of the apples. A
dessert would not now be considered complete without candied and
preserved fruits and confections. The candied fruits may be purchased at
a less cost than they can be manufactured at home. They are preserved
abroad in most ornamental and elegant forms. And since, from the
facilities of travel, we have become so familiar with the tables of the
French, chocolate in different forms is indispensable to our desserts.


ICES.

510. Ices are composed, it is scarcely necessary to say, of congealed
cream or water, combined sometimes with liqueurs or other flavouring
ingredients, or more generally with the juices of fruits. At desserts,
or at some evening parties, ices are scarcely to be dispensed with. The
principal utensils required for making ice-creams are ice-tubs,
freezing-pots, spaddles, and a cellaret. The tub must be large enough to
contain about a bushel of ice, pounded small, when brought out of the
ice-house, and mixed very carefully with either _salt, nitre,_ or
_soda._ The freezing-pot is best made of pewter. If it be of tin, as is
sometimes the case, the congelation goes on too rapidly in it for the
thorough intermingling of its contents, on which the excellence of the
ice greatly depends. The spaddle is generally made of copper, kept
bright and clean. The cellaret is a tin vessel, in which ices are kept
for a short time from dissolving. The method to be pursued in the
freezing process must be attended to. When the ice-tub is prepared with
fresh-pounded ice and salt, the freezing-pot is put into it up to its
cover. The articles to be congealed are then poured into it and covered
over; but to prevent the ingredients from separating and the heaviest of
them from falling to the bottom of the mould, it is requisite to turn
the freezing-pot round and round by the handle, so as to keep its
contents moving until the congelation commences. As soon as this is
perceived (the cover of the pot being occasionally taken off for the
purpose of noticing when freezing takes place), the cover is immediately
closed over it, ice is put upon it, and it is left in this state till it
is served. The use of the spaddle is to stir up and remove from the
sides of the freezing pot the cream, which in the shaking may have
washed against it, and by stirring it in with the rest, to prevent waste
of it occurring. Any negligence in stirring the contents of the
freezing-pot before congelation takes place, will destroy the whole:
either the sugar sinks to the bottom and leaves the ice insufficiently
sweetened, or lumps are formed, which disfigure and discolour it.

1511. The aged, the delicate, and children should abstain from ices or
iced beverages; even the strong and healthy should partake of them in
moderation. They should be taken immediately after the repast, or some
hours after, because the taking these substances _during_ the process of
digestion is apt to provoke indisposition. It is necessary, then, that
this function should have scarcely commenced, or that it should be
completely finished, before partaking of ices. It is also necessary to
abstain from them when persons are very warm, or immediately after
taking violent exercise, as in some cases they have produced illnesses
which have ended fatally.

[Do ladies know to whom they are indebted for the introduction of ices,
which all the fair sex are passionately fond of?--To Catherine de'
Medici. Will not this fact cover a multitude of sins committed by the
instigator of St. Bartholomew ?]




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXXI.


TO MAKE SYRUP FOR COMPOTES, &c.

1512. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1-1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for 1/4 hour, carefully
removing the scum as it rises: the syrup is then ready for the fruit.
The articles boiled in this syrup will not keep for any length of time,
it being suitable only for dishes intended to be eaten immediately. A
larger proportion of sugar must be added for a syrup intended to keep.

_Time_.--1/4 hour.


TO CLARIFY SUGAR OR SYRUP.

1513. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water and
1/2 the white of an egg.

_Mode_.--Put the sugar, water, and the white of the egg, which should,
be well beaten, into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan; and do not put
it on the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Then place it on the fire,
and when it boils, throw in a teacupful of cold water, and do not stir
the sugar after this is added. Bring it to the boiling-point again, and
then place the pan by the side of the fire, for the preparation to
settle. Remove all the scum, and the sugar will be ready for use. The
scum should be placed on a sieve, so that what syrup runs from it may be
boiled up again: this must also be well skimmed.

_Time_.--20 minutes for the sugar to dissolve; 5 minutes to boil.

_Note_.--The above two recipes are those used in the preparation of
dishes usually made at home. There are many degrees of boiling sugar,
which process requires great care, attention, and experience. Caramel
sugar, which makes an elegant cover for sweetmeats, is difficult to
prepare, and is best left to an experienced confectioner. We give the
recipe, for those of our readers who care to attempt the operation.


TO BOIL SUGAR TO CARAMEL.

1514. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of lump sugar allow 1 gill of spring
water.

_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together very quickly over a clear
fire, skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep it boiling
until the sugar snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold
water. If it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree; then
squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and let it remain an instant on the
fire. Set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is then
ready for use. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented
with this sugar, which with a fork should be spread over them in fine
threads or network. A dish of light pastry, tastefully arranged, looks
very prettily with this sugar spun lightly over it. The sugar must be
carefully watched, and taken up the instant it is done. Unless the cook
is very experienced and thoroughly understands her business, it is
scarcely worth while to attempt to make this elaborate ornament, as it
may be purchased quite as economically at a confectioner's, if the
failures in the preparation are taken into consideration.


COMPOTE OF APPLES.

_(Soyer's Recipe,--a Dessert Dish.)_

1515. INGREDIENTS.--6 ripe apples, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of lump sugar, 1/2
pint of water.

[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF APPLES.]

_Mode_.--Select the apples of a moderate size, peel them, cut them in
halves, remove the cores, and rub each piece over with a little lemon.
Put the sugar and water together into a lined saucepan, and let them
boil until forming a thickish syrup, when lay in the apples with the
rind of the lemon cut thin, and the juice of the same. Let the apples
simmer till tender; then take them out very carefully, drain them on a
sieve, and reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes.
When both are cold, arrange the apples neatly on a glass dish, pour over
the syrup, and garnish with strips of green angelica or candied citron.
Smaller apples may be dressed in the same manner: they should not be
divided in half, but peeled and the cores pushed out with a
vegetable-cutter.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water together; from 15 to 25
minutes to simmer the apples.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.


APPLE GINGER.

(_A Dessert Dish_.)

1516 INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of any kind of hard apples, 2 lbs. of loaf
sugar, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 oz. of tincture of ginger.

_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water until they form a rich syrup, adding
the ginger when it boils up. Pare, core, and cut the apples into pieces;
dip them in cold water to preserve the colour, and boil them in the
syrup until transparent; but be careful not to let them break. Put the
pieces of apple into jars, pour over the syrup, and carefully exclude
the air, by well covering them. It will remain good some time, if kept
in a dry place.

_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes to boil the syrup; about 1/2 hour to
simmer the apples.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in September, October, or November.


APPLE JAM.

1517. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit weighed after being pared,
cored, and sliced, allow 3/4 lb. of preserving-sugar, the grated rind of
1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon.

_Mode_.--Peel the apples, core and slice them very thin, and be
particular that they are all the same sort. Put them into a jar, stand
this in a saucepan of boiling water, and let the apples stew until quite
tender. Previously to putting the fruit into the jar, weigh it, to
ascertain the proportion of sugar that may be required. Put the apples
into a preserving-pan, crush the sugar to small lumps, and add it, with
the grated lemon-rind and juice, to the apples. Simmer these over the
fire for 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time the jam begins to simmer
properly; remove the scum as it rises, and when the jam is done, put it
into pots for use. Place a piece of oiled paper over the jam, and to
exclude the air, cover the pots with tissue-paper dipped in the white of
an egg, and stretched over the top. This jam will keep good for a long
time.

_Time_.--About 2 hours to stew in the jar; 1/2 hour to boil after the
jam begins to simmer.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 6s.

_Sufficient._--7 or 8 lbs. of apples for 6 pots of jam.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in September, October, or November.


APPLE JELLY.

I.

1518. INGREDIENTS.--To 6 lbs. of apples allow 3 pints of water; to every
quart of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar;--the juice of 1/2 lemon.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and put them into a
jar, with water in the above proportion. Place them in a cool oven, with
the jar well covered, and when the juice is thoroughly drawn and the
apples are quite soft, strain them through a jelly-bag. To every quart
of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, which should be crushed to small
lumps, and put into a preserving-pan with the juice. Boil these together
for rather more than 1/2 hour, remove the scum as it rises, add the
lemon-juice just before it is done, and put the jelly into pots for use.
This preparation is useful for garnishing sweet dishes, and may be
turned out for dessert.

_Time_.--The apples to be put in the oven over-night, and left till
morning; rather more than 1/2 hour to boil the jelly.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 small pots of jelly.

_Seasonable_,--This should be made in September, October, or November.


II.

1519. INGREDIENTS.--Apples, water: to every pint of syrup allow 3/4 lb.
of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Pare and cut the apples into pieces, remove the cores, and put
them in a preserving-pan with sufficient cold water to cover them. Let
them boil for an hour; then drain the syrup from them through a hair
sieve or jelly-bag, and measure the juice; to every pint allow 3/4 lb.
of loaf sugar, and boil these together for 3/4 hour, removing every
particle of scum as it rises, and keeping the jelly well stirred, that
it may not burn. A little lemon-rind may be boiled with the apples, and
a small quantity of strained lemon-juice may be put in the jelly just
before it is done, when the flavour is liked. This jelly may be
ornamented with preserved greengages, or any other preserved fruit, and
will turn out very prettily for dessert. It should be stored away in
small pots.

_Time_.--1 hour to boil the fruit and water; 3/4 hour to boil the juice
with the sugar.

_Average cost_, for 6 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in
proportion, 3s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 small pots of jelly.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in September, October, or November.


TO PRESERVE APPLES IN QUARTERS, in imitation of Ginger.

1520. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of apples allow 3/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2
oz. of the best white ginger; 1 oz. of ginger to every 1/2 pint of
water.

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and quarter the apples, and put the fruit, sugar,
and ginger in layers into a wide-mouthed jar, and let them remain for 2
days; then infuse 1 oz. of ginger in 1/2 pint of boiling water, and
cover it closely, and let it remain for 1 day: this quantity of ginger
and water is for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in
proportion. Put the apples, &c., into a preserving-pan with the water
strained from the ginger, and boil till the apples look clear and the
syrup is rich, which will be in about an hour. The rind of a lemon may
be added just before the apples have finished boiling; and great care
must be taken not to break the pieces of apple in putting them into the
jars. Serve on glass dishes for dessert.

_Time_.--2 days for the apples to remain in the jar with sugar, &c.; 1
day to infuse the ginger; about 1 hour to boil the apples.

_Average cost_, for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in
proportion, 2s. 3d.

_Sufficient._--3 lbs. should fill 3 moderate-sized jars.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made in September, October, or November.


COMPOTE OF APRICOTS.

(_An elegant Dish_.)

1521. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of syrup No. 1512, 12 green apricots.

_Mode_.--Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, and when it is ready, put in
the apricots whilst the syrup is boiling. Simmer them very gently until
tender, taking care not to let them break; take them out carefully,
arrange them on a glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour it over
the apricots, and, when cold, serve.

_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes to simmer the apricots.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June and July, with green apricots.

APRICOT JAM or MARMALADE.

1522. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of ripe apricots, weighed after being
skinned and stoned, allow 1 lb. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Pare the apricots, which should be ripe, as thinly as possible,
break them in half, and remove the stones. Weigh the fruit, and to every
lb. allow the same proportion of loaf sugar. Pound the sugar very finely
in a mortar, strew it over the apricots, which should be placed on
dishes, and let them remain for 12 hours. Break the stones, blanch the
kernels, and put them with the sugar and fruit into a preserving-pan.
Let these simmer very gently until clear; take out the pieces of apricot
singly as they become so, and, as fast as the scum rises, carefully
remove it. Put the apricots into small jars, pour over them the syrup
and kernels, cover the jam with pieces of paper dipped in the purest
salad-oil, and stretch over the top of the jars tissue-paper, cut about
2 inches larger and brushed over with the white of an egg: when dry, it
will be perfectly hard and air-tight.

_Time_.--12 hours sprinkled with sugar; about 3/4 hour to boil the jam.

_Average cost_.--When cheap, apricots may be purchased for preserving at
about 1s. 6d. per gallon.

_Sufficient_,--10 lbs. of fruit for 12 pots of jam.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in August or September.


BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES.

1523. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup No. 1513, barberries.

_Mode_.--Prepare some small pieces of clean white wood, 3 inches long
and 1/4 inch wide, and tie the fruit on to these in nice bunches. Have
ready some clear syrup, made by recipe No. 1513; put in the barberries,
and simmer them in it for 2 successive days, boiling them for nearly 1/2
hour each day, and covering them each time with the syrup when cold.
When the fruit looks perfectly clear, it is sufficiently done, and
should be stored away in pots, with the syrup poured over, or the fruit
may be candied.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to simmer each day.

_Seasonable_ in autumn.

_Note_.--The berries in their natural state make a very pretty
garnishing for dishes, and may even be used for the same purpose,
preserved as above, and look exceedingly nice on sweet dishes.


TO MAKE BARLEY-SUGAR.

1524. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2
the white of an egg.

_Mode_.--Put the sugar into a well-tinned saucepan, with the water, and,
when the former is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire, adding the
well-beaten egg before the mixture gets warm, and stir it well together.
When it boils, remove the scum as it rises, and keep it boiling until no
more appears, and the syrup looks perfectly clear; then strain it
through a fine sieve or muslin bag, and put it back into the saucepan.
Boil it again like caramel, until it is brittle, when a little is
dropped in a basin of cold water: it is then sufficiently boiled. Add a
little lemon-juice and a few drops of essence of lemon, and let it stand
for a minute or two. Have ready a marble slab or large dish, rubbed over
with salad-oil; pour on it the sugar, and cut it into strips with a pair
of scissors: these strips should then be twisted, and the barley-sugar
stored away in a very dry place. It may be formed into lozenges or
drops, by dropping the sugar in a very small quantity at a time on to
the oiled slab or dish.

_Time_.--1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 sticks.


CARROT JAM TO IMITATE APRICOT PRESERVE.

1525. INGREDIENTS.--Carrots; to every lb. of carrot pulp allow 1 lb. of
pounded sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, the strained juice of 2, 6
chopped bitter almonds, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.--Select young carrots; wash and scrape them clean, cut them into
round pieces, put them into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover
them, and let them simmer until perfectly soft; then beat them through a
sieve. Weigh the pulp, and to every lb. allow the above ingredients. Put
the pulp into a preserving-pan with the sugar, and let this boil for 5
minutes, stirring and skimming all the time. When cold, add the
lemon-rind and juice, almonds and brandy; mix these well with the jam;
then put it into pots, which must be well covered and kept in a dry
place. The brandy may be omitted, but the preserve will then not keep:
with the brandy it will remain good for months.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to boil the carrots; 5 minutes to simmer the
pulp.

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. for 1 lb. of pulp, with the other ingredients in
proportion.

_Sufficient_ to fill 3 pots.

_Seasonable_ from July to December.


TO MAKE CHERRY BRANDY.

1536. INGREDIENTS.--Morella cherries, good brandy; to every lb. of
cherries allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Have ready some glass bottles, which must be perfectly dry.
Ascertain that the cherries are not too ripe and are freshly gathered,
and cut off about half of the stalks. Put them into the bottles, with
the above proportion of sugar to every lb. of fruit; strew this in
between the cherries, and, when the bottles are nearly full, pour in
sufficient brandy to reach just below the cork. A few peach or apricot
kernels will add much to their flavour, or a few blanched bitter
almonds. Put corks or bungs into the bottles, tie over them a piece of
bladder, and store away in a dry place. The cherries will be fit to eat
in 2 or 3 months, and will remain good for years. They are liable to
shrivel and become tough if too much sugar be added to them.

_Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--1 lb. of cherries and about 1/4 pint of brandy for a
quart bottle. _Seasonable_ in August and September.


DRIED CHERRIES.

1527. CHERRIES may be put in a slow oven and thoroughly dried before
they begin to change colour. They should then be taken out of the oven,
tied in bunches, and stored away in a dry place. In the winter, they may
be cooked with sugar for dessert, the same as Normandy pippins.
Particular care must be taken that the oven be not too hot. Another
method of drying cherries is to stone them, and to put them into a
preserving-pan, with plenty of loaf sugar strewed amongst them. They
should be simmered till the fruit shrivels, when they should be strained
from the juice. The cherries should then be placed in an oven, cool
enough to dry without baking them. About 5 oz. of sugar would be
required for 1 lb. of cherries, and the same syrup may be used again to
do another quantity of fruit.


CHERRY JAM.

1528. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed before stoning, allow
1/2 lb. of sugar; to every 6 lbs. of fruit allow 1 pint of red-currant
juice, and to every pint of juice 1 lb. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Weigh the fruit before stoning, and allow half the weight of
sugar; stone the cherries, and boil them in a preserving-pan until
nearly all the juice is dried up; then add the sugar, which should be
crushed to powder, and the currant-juice, allowing 1 pint to every 6
lbs. of cherries (original weight), and 1 lb. of sugar to every pint of
juice. Boil all together until it jellies, which will be in from 20
minutes to 1/2 hour; skim the jam well, keep it well stirred, and, a few
minutes before it is done, crack some of the stones, and add the
kernels: these impart a very delicious flavour to the jam.

_Time_.--According to the quality of the cherries, from 3/4 to 1 hour to
boil them; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour with the sugar.

_Average cost_, from 7d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--1 pint of fruit for a lb. pot of jam.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in July or August.


TO PRESERVE CHERRIES IN SYRUP.

(_Very delicious_.)

1529. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of cherries, 3 lbs. of sugar, 1 pint of
white-currant juice.

_Mode_.--Let the cherries be as clear and as transparent as possible,
and perfectly ripe; pick off the stalks, and remove the stones, damaging
the fruit as little as you can. Make a syrup with the above proportion
of sugar, by recipe No. 1512; mix the cherries with it, and boil them
for about 15 minutes, carefully skimming them; turn them gently into a
pan, and let them remain till the next day; then drain the cherries on a
sieve, and put the syrup and white-currant juice into the preserving-pan
again. Boil these together until the syrup is somewhat reduced and
rather thick; then put in the cherries, and let them boil for about 5
minutes; take them off the fire, skim the syrup, put the cherries into
small pots or wide-mouthed bottles; pour the syrup over, and when quite
cold, tie them down carefully, so that the air is quite excluded.

_Time_.--15 minutes to boil the cherries in the syrup; 10 minutes to
boil the syrup and currant-juice; 6 minutes to boil the cherries the
second time.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in July or August.


BLACK-CURRANT JAM.

1530. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed before being stripped
from the stalks, allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 gill of water.

_Mode_.--Let the fruit be very ripe, and gathered on a dry day. Strip it
from the stalks, and put it into a preserving-pan, with a gill of water
to each lb. of fruit; boil these together for 10 minutes; then add the
sugar, and boil the jam again for 30 minutes, reckoning from the time
when the jam simmers equally all over, or longer, should it not appear
to set nicely when a little is poured on to a plate. Keep stirring it to
prevent it from burning, carefully remove all the scum, and when done,
pour it into pots. Let it cool, cover the top of the jam with oiled
paper, and the top of the jars with a piece of tissue-paper brushed over
on both sides with the white of an egg: this, when cold, forms a hard
stiff cover, and perfectly excludes the air. Great attention must be
paid to the stirring of this jam, as it is very liable to burn, on
account of the thickness of the juice.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the fruit and water; 30 minutes with the
sugar, or longer.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. for a pot capable of holding 1 lb.

_Sufficient_.--Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 1 dozen pots
of jam, each pot to hold 1 lb.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in July.


BLACK-CURRANT JELLY.

1531. INGREDIENTS.--Black currants; to every pint of juice allow 1/4
pint of water, 1 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Strip the currants from the stalks, which may be done in an
expeditious manner, by holding the bunch in one hand, and passing a
small silver fork down the currants: they will then readily fall from
the stalks. Put them into a jar, place this jar in a saucepan of boiling
water, and simmer them until their juice is extracted; then strain them,
and to every pint of juice allow the above proportion of sugar and
water; stir these ingredients together cold until the sugar is
dissolved; place the preserving-pan on the fire, and boil the jelly for
about 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time it commences to boil all over,
and carefully remove the scum as it rises. If the jelly becomes firm
when a little is put on a plate, it is done; it should then be put into
_small_ pots, and covered the same as the jam in the preceding recipe.
If the jelly is wanted very clear, the fruit should not be squeezed dry;
but, of course, so much juice will not be obtained. If the fruit is not
much squeezed, it may be converted into a jam for immediate eating, by
boiling it with a little common sugar: this answers very well for a
nursery preserve.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to extract the juice; 1/2 hour to boil the
jelly.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield a pint of
juice.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in July.


RED-CURRANT JAM.

1532. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.

[Illustration: JAM-POT.]

_Mode_.--Let the fruit be gathered on a fine day; weigh it, and then
strip the currants from the stalks; put them into a preserving-pan with
sugar in the above proportion; stir them, and boil them for about 3/4
hour. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Put the jam into pots, and,
when cold, cover with oiled papers; over these put a piece of
tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg; press
the paper round the top of the pot, and, when dry, the covering will be
quite hard and air-tight.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time the jam boils all
over.

_Average cost_, for a lb. pot, from 6d. to 8d.

_Sufficient_.--Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 12 1-lb,
pots of jam.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in July.


RED-CURRANT JELLY.

1533. INGREDIENTS.--Red currants; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb.
of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Have the fruit gathered in fine weather; pick it from the
stalks, put it into a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boiling
water over the fire, and let it simmer gently until the juice is well
drawn from the currants; then strain them through a jelly-bag or fine
cloth, and, if the jelly is wished very clear, do not squeeze them _too
much_, as the skin and pulp from the fruit will be pressed through with
the juice, and so make the jelly muddy. Measure the juice, and to each
pint allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar; put these into a preserving-pan, set
it over the fire, and keep stirring the jelly until it is done,
carefully removing every particle of scum as it rises, using a wooden or
silver spoon for the purpose, as metal or iron ones would spoil the
colour of the jelly when it has boiled from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, put
a little of the jelly on a plate, and if firm when cool, it is done.
Take it off the fire, pour it into small gallipots, cover each of the
pots with an oiled paper, and then with a piece of tissue-paper brushed
over on both sides with the white of an egg. Label the pots, adding the
year when the jelly was made, and store it away in a dry place. A jam
may be made with the currants, if they are not squeezed too dry, by
adding a few fresh raspberries, and boiling all together, with
sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. As this preserve is not worth
storing away, but is only for immediate eating, a smaller proportion of
sugar than usual will be found enough: it answers very well for
children's puddings, or for a nursery preserve.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to extract the juice; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour
to boil the jelly.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot. _Sufficient_.--8
quarts of currants will make from 10 to 12 pots of jelly.
_Seasonable_.--Make this in July. _Note_.--Should the above proportion
of sugar not be found sufficient for some tastes, add an extra 1/4 lb.
to every pint of juice, making altogether 1 lb.


WHITE-CURRANT JELLY.

1534. INGREDIENTS.--White currants; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb.
of good loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Pick the currants from the stalks, and put them into a jar;
place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until the
juice is well drawn from the fruit, which will be in from 3/4 to 1 hour.
Then strain the currants through a fine cloth or jelly-bag; do not
squeeze them too much, or the jelly will not be clear, and put the juice
into a very clean preserving-pan, with the sugar. Let this simmer gently
over a clear fire until it is firm, and keep stirring and skimming until
it is done; then pour it into small pots, cover them, and store away in
a dry place.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to draw the juice; 1/2 hour to boil the jelly.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot.

_Sufficient._--From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint of
juice.

_Seasonable_ in July and August.


BAKED DAMSONS FOR WINTER USE.

1535. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 6 oz. of pounded sugar;
melted mutton suet.

_Mode_.--Choose sound fruit, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, weigh
it, and to every lb. allow the above proportion of pounded sugar. Put
the fruit into large dry stone jars, sprinkling the sugar amongst it;
cover the jars with saucers, place them in a rather cool oven, and bake
the fruit until it is quite tender. When cold, cover the top of the
fruit with a piece of white paper cut to the size of the jar; pour over
this melted mutton suet about an inch thick, and cover the tops of the
jars with thick brown paper, well tied down. Keep the jars in a cool dry
place, and the fruit will remain good till the following Christmas, but
not much longer.

_Time_.--From 5 to 6 hours to bake the damsons, in a very cool oven.

_Seasonable_ in September and October.


DAMSON CHEESE.

1536. INGREDIENTS.--Damsons; to every lb. of fruit pulp allow 1/2 lb. of
loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Pick the stalks from the damsons, and put them into a
preserving-pan; simmer them over the fire until they are soft,
occasionally stirring them; then beat them through a coarse sieve, and
put the pulp and juice into the preserving-pan, with sugar in the above
proportion, having previously carefully weighed them. Stir the sugar
well in, and simmer the damsons slowly for 2 hours. Skim well; then boil
the preserve quickly for 1/2 hour, or until it looks firm and hard in
the spoon; put it quickly into shallow pots, or very tiny earthenware
moulds, and, when cold, cover it with oiled papers, and the jars with
tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. A few
of the stones may be cracked, and the kernels boiled with the damsons,
which very much improves the flavour of the cheese.

_Time_.--1 hour to boil the damsons without the sugar; 2 hours to simmer
them slowly, 1/2 hour quickly.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/3 lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--1 pint of damsons to make a _very small_ pot of cheese.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in September or October.


COMPOTE OF DAMSONS.

1537. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of damsons, 1 pint of syrup No. 1512.

_Mode_.--Procure sound ripe damsons; pick the stalks from them, and put
them into boiling syrup, made by recipe No. 1512. Simmer them gently
until the fruit is tender, but not sufficiently soft to break; take them
up, boil the syrup for 5 minutes; pour it over the damsons, and serve.
This should be sent to table in a glass dish.

_Time_.--About 1/4 hour to simmer the damsons; 5 minutes to boil the
syrup.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ in September and October.


DAMSON JAM.

1538. INGREDIENTS.--Damsons; to every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf
sugar.

_Mode_.--Have the fruit gathered in dry weather; pick it over, and
reject any that is at all blemished. Stone the damsons, weigh them, and
to every lb. allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar. Put the fruit and sugar into a
preserving-pan; keep stirring them gently until the sugar is dissolved,
and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Boil the jam for about an
hour, reckoning from the time it commences to simmer all over alike: it
must be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable to burn and
stick to the pan, which will cause the jam to have a very disagreeable
flavour. When the jam looks firm, and the juice appears to set, it is
done. Then take it off the fire, put into pots, cover it down, when
quite cold, with oiled and egged papers, the same as in recipe No. 1530,
and store it away in a dry place.

_Time_.--1 hour after the jam simmers all over.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--1-1/2 pint of damsons for a lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in September or October.


A VERY NICE PRESERVE OF DAMSONS.

1539. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of damsons allow 1/2 lb. of loaf
sugar.

_Mode_.--Put the damsons (which should be picked from the stalks and
quite free from blemishes) into a jar, with pounded sugar sprinkled
amongst them in the above proportion; tie the jar closely down, set it
in a saucepan of cold water; bring it gradually to boil, and simmer
gently until the damsons are soft, without being broken. Let them stand
till cold; then strain the juice from them, boil it up well, strain it
through a jelly-bag, and pour it over the fruit. Let it cool, cover with
oiled papers, and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides
with the white of an egg, and store away in a dry cool place.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to simmer the fruit after the water boils; 1/4
hour to boil the juice.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in September or October.


TO PRESERVE DAMSONS, OR ANY KIND OF PLUMS.

(_Useful in Winter_.)

1540. INGREDIENTS.--Damsons or plums; boiling water.

_Mode_.--Pick the fruit into clean dry stone jars, taking care to leave
out all that are broken or blemished. When full, pour boiling water on
the plums, until it stands one inch above the fruit; cut a piece of
paper to fit the inside of the jar, over which pour melted mutton-suet;
cover down with brown paper, and keep the jars in a dry cool place. When
used, the suet should be removed, the water poured off, and the jelly at
the bottom of the jar used and mixed with the fruit.

_Seasonable_ in September and October.


COMPOTE OF GREEN FIGS.

[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF FIGS.]

1541. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 1-1/2 pint of green figs,
the rind of 1/2 lemon.

_Mode_.--Make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, boiling with it the
lemon-rind, and carefully remove all the scum as it rises. Put in the
figs, and simmer them very slowly until tender; dish them on a glass
dish; reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for 5 minutes; take out the
lemon-peel, pour the syrup over the figs, and the compote, when cold,
will be ready for table. A little port wine, or lemon-juice, added just
before the figs are done, will be found an improvement.

_Time_.--2 to 3 hours to stew the figs.

_Average cost_, figs, 2s. to 3s. per dozen.

_Seasonable_ in August and September.


TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT.

(_Very useful in Winter_.)

I.

1542. INGREDIENTS.--Fresh fruits, such as currants, raspberries,
cherries, gooseberries, plums of all kinds, damsons, &c.; wide-mouthed
glass bottles, new corks to fit them tightly.

_Mode_.--Let the fruit be full grown, but not too ripe, and gathered in
dry weather. Pick it off the stalks without bruising or breaking the
skin, and reject any that is at all blemished: if gathered in the damp,
or if the skins are cut at all, the fruit will mould. Have ready some
_perfectly dry_ glass bottles, and some nice new soft corks or bungs;
burn a match in each bottle, to exhaust the air, and quickly place the
fruit in to be preserved; gently cork the bottles, and put them into a
very cool oven, where let them remain until the fruit has shrunk away a
fourth part. Then take the bottles out; _do not open them,_ but
immediately beat the corks in tight, cut off the tops, and cover them
with melted resin. If kept in a dry place, the fruit will remain good
for months; and on this principally depends the success of the
preparation; for if stored away in a place that is in the least damp,
the fruit will soon spoil.

_Time_.--From 5 to 6 hours in a very slow oven.


II.

1543. INGREDIENTS.--Any kind of fresh fruit, such as currants, cherries,
gooseberries, all kinds of plums, &c.; wide-mouthed glass bottles, new
corks to fit them tightly.

_Mode_.--The fruit must be full-grown, not too ripe, and gathered on a
fine day. Let it be carefully picked and put into the bottles, which
must be clean and perfectly dry. Tie over the tops of the bottles pieces
of bladder; stand the bottles in a large pot, copper, or boiler, with
cold water to reach to their necks; kindle a fire under, let the water
boil, and as the bladders begin to rise and puff, prick them. As soon as
the water boils, extinguish the fire, and let the bottles remain where
they are, to become cold. The next day remove the bladders, and strew
over the fruit a thick layer of pounded sugar; fit the bottles with
corks, and let each cork lie close at hand to its own bottle. Hold for a
few moments, in the neck of the bottle, two or three lighted matches,
and when they have filled the bottle neck with gas, and before they go
out, remove them very quickly; instantly cork the bottle closely, and
dip it in bottle cement.

_Time_.--Altogether about 8 hours.


TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT WITH SUGAR.

(_Very useful in Winter_.)

1544. INGREDIENTS.--Any kind of fresh fruit; to each quart bottle allow
1/4 lb. of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather. Pick it carefully,
and drop it into _clean_ and _very dry_ quart glass bottles, sprinkling
over it the above proportion of pounded sugar to each quart. Put the
corks in the bottles, and place them in a copper of cold water up to
their necks, with small hay-wisps round them, to prevent the bottles
from knocking together. Light the fire under, bring the water gradually
to boil, and let it simmer gently until the fruit in the bottles is
reduced nearly one third. Extinguish the fire, _and let the bottles
remain in the water until it is perfectly cold;_ then take them out,
make the corks secure, and cover them with melted resin or wax.

_Time_.--About 1 hour from the time the water commences to boil.


TO FROST HOLLY-LEAVES, for garnishing and decorating Dessert and Supper
Dishes.

1545.--INGREDIENTS.--Sprigs of holly, oiled butter, coarsely-powdered
sugar.

_Mode_.--Procure some nice sprigs of holly; pick the leaves from the
stalks, and wipe them with a clean cloth free from all moisture; then
place them on a dish near the fire, to get thoroughly dry, but not too
near to shrivel the leaves; dip them into oiled butter, sprinkle over
them some coarsely-powdered sugar, and dry them before the fire. They
should be kept in a dry place, as the least damp would spoil their
appearance.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to dry before the fire.

_Seasonable_.--These may be made at any time; but are more suitable for
winter garnishes, when fresh flowers are not easily obtained.


COMPOTE OF GOOSEBERRIES.

1546. INGREDIENTS.--Syrup made by recipe No. 1512; to 1 pint of syrup
allow nearly a quart of gooseberries.

_Mode_.--Top and tail the gooseberries, which should not be very ripe,
and pour over them some boiling water; then take them out, and plunge
them into cold water, with which has been mixed a tablespoonful of
vinegar, which will assist to keep the fruit a good colour. Make a pint
of syrup by recipe No. 1512, and when it boils, drain the gooseberries
and put them in; simmer them gently until the fruit is nicely pulped and
tender, without being broken; then dish the gooseberries on a glass
dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, pour over the gooseberries, and
serve cold.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes to boil the gooseberries in the syrup; 3
minutes to reduce the syrup.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_,--a quart of gooseberries for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June.


GOOSEBERRY JAM.

I.

1547. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar;
currant-juice.

_Mode_.--Select red hairy gooseberries; have them gathered in dry
weather, when quite ripe, without being too soft. Weigh them; with a
pair of scissors, cut off the tops and tails, and to every 6 lbs. of
fruit have ready 1/2 pint of red-currant juice, drawn as for jelly. Put
the gooseberries and currant-juice into a preserving-pan; let them boil
tolerably quickly, keeping them well stirred; when they begin to break,
add to them the sugar, and keep simmering until the jam becomes firm,
carefully skimming: and stirring it, that it does not burn at the
bottom. It should be boiled rather a long time, or it will not keep. Put
it into pots (not too large); let it get perfectly cold; then cover the
pots down with oiled and egged papers, as directed for red-currant jelly
No. 1533.

_Time_.--About 1 hour to boil the gooseberries in the currant-juice;
from 1/2 to 3/4 hour with the sugar.

_Average cost_, per lb. pot, from 6d. to 8d.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in June or July.


II.

1548. INGREDIENTS.--To every 8 lbs. of red, rough, ripe gooseberries
allow 1 quart of red-currant juice, 5 lbs. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Have the fruit gathered in dry weather, and cut off the tops
and tails. Prepare 1 quart of red-currant juice, the same as for
red-currant jelly No. 1533; put it into a preserving-pan with the sugar,
and keep stirring until the latter is dissolved. Keep it boiling for
about 5 minutes; skim well; then put in the gooseberries, and let them
boil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour; then turn the whole into an earthen pan, and
let it remain for 2 days. Boil the jam up again until it looks clear;
put it into pots, and when cold, cover with oiled paper, and over the
jars put tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an
egg, and store away in a dry place. Care must be taken, in making this,
to keep the jam well stirred and well skimmed, to prevent it burning at
the bottom of the pan, and to have it very clear.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the currant-juice and sugar after the latter
is dissolved; from 1/2 to 3/4 hour to simmer the gooseberries the first
time, 1/4 hour the second time of boiling.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in June or July.


WHITE OR GREEN GOOSEBERRY JAM.

1549. INGREDIENTS.--Equal weight of fruit and sugar.

_Mode_.--Select the gooseberries not very ripe, either white or green,
and top and tail them. Boil the sugar with water (allowing 1/2 pint to
every lb.) for about 1/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises;
then put in the gooseberries, and simmer gently till clear and firm: try
a little of the jam on a plate; if it jellies when cold, it is done, and
should then be poured into pots. When cold, cover with oiled paper, and
tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the unbeaten white of an
egg, and store away in a dry place.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the sugar and water, 3/4 hour the jam.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in June.


GOOSEBERRY JELLY.

1550. INGREDIENTS.--Gooseberries; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb.
of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Put the gooseberries, after cutting off the tops and tails,
into a preserving-pan, and stir them over the fire until they are quite
soft; then strain them through a sieve, and to every pint of juice allow
3/4 lb. of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together for nearly 3/4 hour,
stirring and skimming all the time; and if the jelly appears firm when a
little of it is poured on to a plate, it is done, and should then be
taken up and put into small pots. Cover the pots with oiled and egged
papers, the same as for currant jelly No. 1533, and store away in a dry
place.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to simmer the gooseberries without the sugar; 3/4 hour
to boil the juice.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot.

_Seasonable_ in July.


COMPOTE OF GREENGAGES.

1551. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup made by recipe No. 1512, 1 quart of
greengages.

_Mode_.--Make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, skim it well, and put in the
greengages when the syrup is boiling, having previously removed the
stalks and stones from the fruit. Boil gently for 1/4 hour, or until the
fruit is tender; but take care not to let it break, as the appearance of
the dish would be spoiled were the fruit reduced to a pulp. Take the
greengages carefully out, place them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for
another 5 minutes, let it cool a little, pour over the fruit, and, when
cold, it will be ready for use.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the fruit, 5 minutes the syrup.

_Average cost_, in full season, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September.


GREENGAGE JAM.

1552. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed before being stoned,
allow 3/4 lb. of lump sugar.

_Mode_.--Divide the greengages, take out the stones, and put them into a
preserving-pan. Bring the fruit to a boil, then add the sugar, and keep
stirring it over a gentle fire until it is melted. Remove all the scum
as it rises, and, just before the jam is done, boil it rapidly for 5
minutes. To ascertain when it is sufficiently boiled, pour a little on a
plate, and if the syrup thickens and appears firm, it is done. Have
ready half the kernels blanched; put them into the jam, give them one
boil, and pour the preserve into pots. When cold, cover down with oiled
papers, and, over these, tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with
the white of an egg.

_Time_.--3/4 hour after the sugar is added.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient._--Allow about 1-1/2 pint of fruit for every lb. pot of jam.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in August or September.


TO PRESERVE AND DRY GREENGAGES.

1553. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1 lb. of fruit, 1/4 pint
of water.

_Mode_.--For this purpose, the fruit must be used before it is quite
ripe, and part of the stalk must be left on. Weigh the fruit, rejecting
all that is in the least degree blemished, and put it into a lined
saucepan with the sugar and water, which should have been previously
boiled together to a rich syrup. Boil the fruit in this for 10 minutes,
remove it from the fire, and drain the greengages. The next day, boil up
the syrup and put in the fruit again, and let it simmer for 3 minutes,
and drain the syrup away. Continue this process for 5 or 6 days, and the
last time place the greengages, when drained, on a hair sieve, and put
them in an oven or warm spot to dry; keep them in a box, with paper
between each layer, in a place free from damp.

_Time_.--10 minutes the first time of boiling.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in August or September.


PRESERVED GREENGAGES IN SYRUP.

1554. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar 1/4
pint of water.

_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for about 10 minutes; divide
the greengages, take out the stones, put the fruit into the syrup, and
let it simmer gently until nearly tender. Take it off the fire, put it
into a large pan, and, the next day, boil it up again for about 10
minutes with the kernels from the stones, which should be blanched. Put
the fruit carefully into jars, pour over it the syrup, and, when cold,
cover down, so that the air is quite excluded. Let the syrup be well
skimmed both the first and second day of boiling, otherwise it will not
be clear.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the syrup; 1/4 hour to simmer the fruit the
first day, 10 minutes the second day.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient._--Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in August or September.


TO MAKE FRUIT ICE-CREAMS.

1555. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of cream;
sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Let the fruit be well ripened; pick it off the stalks, and put
it into a large earthen pan. Stir it about with a wooden spoon, breaking
it until it is well mashed; then, with the back of the spoon, rub it
through a hair sieve. Sweeten it nicely with pounded sugar; whip the
cream for a few minutes, add it to the fruit, and whisk the whole again
for another 5 minutes. Put the mixture into the freezing-pot, and freeze
in the same manner as directed for Ice Pudding, No. 1290, taking care to
stir the cream, &c., two or three times, and to remove it from the sides
of the vessel, that the mixture may be equally frozen and smooth. Ices
are usually served in glasses, but if moulded, as they sometimes are for
dessert, must have a small quantity of melted isinglass added to them,
to enable them to keep their shape. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and
all fruit ice-creams, are made in the same manner. A little pounded
sugar sprinkled over the fruit before it is mashed assists to extract
the juice. In winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable, a little jam
may be substituted for it: it should be melted and worked through a
sieve before being added to the whipped cream; and if the colour should
not be good, a little prepared cochineal or beetroot may be put in to
improve its appearance.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 4d. each ice.

_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August.


TO MAKE FRUIT-WATER ICES.

1556. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of syrup
made by recipe No. 1513.

[Illustration: DISH OF ICES.]

_Mode_.--Select nice ripe fruit; pick off the stalks, and put it into a
large earthen pan, with a little pounded sugar strewed over; stir it
about with a wooden spoon until it is well broken, then rub it through a
hair sieve. Make the syrup by recipe No. 1513, omitting the white of the
egg; let it cool, add the fruit-juice, mix well together, and put the
mixture into the freezing-pot. Proceed as directed for Ice Puddings, No.
1290, and when the mixture is equally frozen, put it into small glasses.
Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and other fresh-fruit-water ices, are
made in the same manner.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.

_Average cost_, 3d. to 4d. each.

_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August.


LEMON-WATER ICE.

1557. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of syrup, made by recipe No. 1513,
allow 1/3 pint of lemon-juice; the rind of 4 lemons.

_Mode_.--Rub the sugar on the rinds of the lemons, and with it make the
syrup by recipe No. 1513, omitting the white of egg. Strain the
lemon-juice, add it to the other ingredients, stir well, and put the
mixture into a freezing-pot. Freeze as directed for Ice Pudding, No.
1290, and, when the mixture is thoroughly and equally frozen, put it
into ice-glasses.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. _Average cost_, 3d. to 4d.
each.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


ICED CURRANTS, for Dessert.

1558. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of water, the whites of 2 eggs, currants,
pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Select very fine bunches of red or white currants, and well
beat the whites of the eggs. Mix these with the water; then take the
currants, a bunch at a time, and dip them in; let them drain for a
minute or two, and roll them in very fine pounded sugar. Lay them to dry
on paper, when the sugar will crystallize round each currant, and have a
very pretty effect. All fresh fruit may be prepared in the same manner;
and a mixture of various fruits iced in this manner, and arranged on one
dish, looks very well for a summer dessert.

_Time_.--1/4 day to dry the fruit.

_Average cost_, 8d. for a pint of iced currants. _Seasonable_ in summer.


MELONS.

1559.--This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked in any way, and should
be sent to table on a dish garnished with leaves or flowers, as fancy
dictates. A border of any other kind of small fruit, arranged round the
melon, has a pretty effect, the colour the former contrasting nicely
with the melon. Plenty of pounded sugar should be served with it; and
the fruit should be cut lengthwise, in moderate-sized slices. In
America, it is frequently eaten with pepper and salt.

_Average cost_,--English, in full season, 3s. 6d. to 5s. each; when
scarce, 10s. to 15s.; _seasonable_, June to August. French, 2s. to 3s.
6d. each; _seasonable_, June and July. Dutch, 9d. to 2s. each;
_seasonable_, July and August.

    MELON.--The melon is a most delicious fruit, succulent, cool,
    and high-flavoured. With us, it is used only at the dessert, and
    is generally eaten with sugar, ginger, or pepper; but, in
    France, it is likewise served up at dinner as a sauce for boiled
    meats. It grows wild in Tartary, and has been lately found in
    abundance on the sandy plains of Jeypoor. It was brought
    originally from Asia by the Romans, and is said to have been
    common in England in the time of Edward III., though it is
    supposed that it was lost again, as well as the cucumber, during
    the wars of York and Lancaster. The best kind, called the
    _Cantaloupe_, from the name of a place near Rome where it was
    first cultivated in Europe, is a native of Armenia, where it
    grows so plentifully that a horse-load may be bought for a
    crown.

PRESERVED MULBERRIES.

1560. INGREDIENTS.--To 2 lbs. of fruit and 1 pint of juice allow 2-1/2
lbs. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Put some of the fruit into a preserving-pan, and simmer it
gently until the juice is well drawn. Strain it through a bag, measure
it, and to every pint allow the above proportion of sugar and fruit. Put
the sugar into the preserving-pan, moisten it with the juice, boil it
up, skim well, and then add the mulberries, which should be ripe, but
not soft enough to break to a pulp. Let them stand in the syrup till
warm through, then set them on the fire to boil gently; when half done,
turn them carefully into an earthen pan, and let them remain till the
next day; then boil them as before, and when the syrup is thick, and
becomes firm when cold, put the preserve into pots. In making this, care
should be taken not to break the mulberries: this may be avoided by very
gentle stirring, and by simmering the fruit very slowly.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to extract the juice;

1/4 hour to boil the mulberries the first time, 1/4 hour the second
time.

_Seasonable_ in August and September.

[Illustration: MULBERRY.]

MULBERRY.--Mulberries are esteemed for their highly aromatic flavour,
and their sub-acid nature. They are considered as cooling, laxative, and
generally wholesome. This fruit was very highly esteemed by the Romans,
who appear to have preferred it to every other. The mulberry-tree is
stated to have been introduced into this country in 1548, being first
planted at Sion House, where the original trees still thrive. The
planting of them was much encouraged by King James I. about 1605; and
considerable attempts were made at that time to rear silkworms on a
large scale for the purpose of making silk; but these endeavours have
always failed, the climate being scarcely warm enough.


TO PRESERVE MORELLO CHERRIES.

1561. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of cherries allow 1-1/4 lb. of sugar, 1
gill of water.

_Mode_.--Select ripe cherries; pick off the stalks, and reject all that
have any blemishes. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes; put
in the cherries, and boil them for 10 minutes, removing the scum as it
rises. Then turn the fruit, &c. into a pan, and let it remain until the
next day, when boil it all again for another 10 minutes, and, if
necessary, skim well. Put the cherries into small pots; pour over them
the syrup, and, when cold, cover down with oiled papers, and the tops of
the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of
an egg, and keep in a dry place.

_Time_.--Altogether, 25 minutes to boil.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in July or August.


THE CHERRY-TREE IN ROME.--The Cherry-tree was introduced into Rome by
Lucullus about seventy years before the Christian era; but the capital
of the world knew not at first how to appreciate this present as it
deserved; for the cherry-tree was propagated so slowly in Italy, that
more than a century after its introduction it was far from being
generally cultivated. The Romans distinguished three principal species
of cherries--the _Apronian_, of a bright red, with a firm and delicate
pulp; the _Lutatian_, very black and sweet; the _Caecilian_, round and
stubby, and much esteemed. The cherry embellished the third course in
Rome and the second at Athens.


PRESERVED NECTARINES.

1562. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water;
nectarines.

_Mode_.--Divide the nectarines in two, take out the stones, and make a
strong syrup with sugar and water in the above proportion. Put in the
nectarines, and boil them until they have thoroughly imbibed the sugar.
Keep the fruit as whole as possible, and turn it carefully into a pan.
The next day boil it again for a few minutes, take out the nectarines,
put them into jars, boil the syrup quickly for 5 minutes, pour it over
the fruit, and, when cold, cover the preserve down. The syrup and
preserve must be carefully skimmed, or it will not be clear.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water; 20 minutes to boil the
fruit the first time, 10 minutes the second time; 5 minutes to boil the
syrup.

_Seasonable_ in August and September, but cheapest in September.


STEWED NORMANDY PIPPINS.

1563. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of Normandy pippins, 1 quart of water, 1/2
teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1
lb. of moist sugar, 1 lemon.

_Mode_.--Well wash the pippins, and put them into 1 quart of water with
the above proportion of cinnamon and ginger, and let them stand 12
hours; then put these all together into a stewpan, with the lemon sliced
thinly, and half the moist sugar. Let them boil slowly until the pippins
are half done; then add the remainder of the sugar, and simmer until
they are quite tender. Serve on glass dishes for dessert.

_Time_.--2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. _Seasonable_.--Suitable
for a winter dish.


ICED ORANGES.

1564. INGREDIENTS.--Oranges; to every lb. of pounded loaf sugar allow
the whites of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Whisk the whites of the eggs well, stir in the sugar, and beat
this mixture for 1/4 hour. Skin the oranges, remove as much of the white
pith as possible without injuring the pulp of the fruit; pass a thread
through the centre of each orange, dip them into the sugar, and tie them
to a stick. Place this stick across the oven, and let the oranges remain
until dry, when they will have the appearance of balls of ice. They make
a pretty dessert or supper dish. Care must be taken not to have the oven
too fierce, or the oranges would scorch and acquire a brown colour,
which would entirely spoil their appearance.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 1 hour to dry in a moderate oven.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each.

_Sufficient_.--1/2 lb. of sugar to ice 12 oranges.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.


THE FIRST ORANGE-TREE IN FRANCE.--The first Orange-tree cultivated in
the centre of France was to be seen a few years ago at Fontainebleau. It
was called _Le Connétable_ (the Constable), because it had belonged to
the Connétable de Bourbon, and had been confiscated, together with all
property belonging to that prince, after his revolt against his
sovereign.


COMPOTE OF ORANGES.

1565. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 6 oranges. _Mode_.--Peel
the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide
them into small pieces without breaking the thin skin with which they
are surrounded. Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, adding the rind of
the orange cut into thin narrow strips. When the syrup has been well
skimmed, and is quite clear, put in the pieces of orange, and simmer
them for 5 minutes. Take them out carefully with a spoon without
breaking them, and arrange them on a glass dish. Reduce the syrup by
boiling it quickly until thick; let it cool a little, pour it over the
oranges, and, when cold, they will be ready for table.

[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF ORANGES.]

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the syrup; 5 minutes to simmer the oranges;
5 minutes to reduce the syrup.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.


THE ORANGE IN PORTUGAL.--The Orange known under the name of "Portugal
Orange" comes originally from China. Not more than two centuries ago,
the Portuguese brought thence the first scion, which has multiplied so
prodigiously that we now see entire forests of orange-trees in Portugal.

ORANGE AND CLOVES.--It appears to have been the custom formerly, in
England, to make new year's presents with oranges stuck full with
cloves. We read in one of Ben Jonson's pieces,--the "Christmas
Masque,"--"He has an orange and rosemary, but not a clove to stick in
it."


ORANGE MARMALADE.

I.

1566. INGREDIENTS.--Equal weight of fine loaf sugar and Seville oranges;
to 12 oranges allow 1 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Let there be an equal weight of loaf sugar and Seville oranges,
and allow the above proportion of water to every dozen oranges. Peel
them carefully, remove a little of the white pith, and boil the rinds in
water 2 hours, changing the water three times to take off a little of
the bitter taste. Break the pulp into small pieces, take out all the
pips, and cut the boiled rind into chips. Make a syrup with the sugar
and water; boil this well, skim it, and, when clear, put in the pulp and
chips. Boil all together from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; pour it into pots,
and, when cold, cover down with bladders or tissue-paper brushed over on
both sides with the white of an egg. The juice and grated rind of 2
lemons to every dozen of oranges, added with the pulp and chips to the
syrup, are a very great improvement to this marmalade.

_Time_.--2 hours to boil the orange-rinds; 10 minutes to boil the syrup;
20 minutes to 1/2 hour to boil the marmalade.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made in March or April, as Seville oranges
are then in perfection.

II.

1567. INGREDIENTS.--Equal weight of Seville oranges and sugar; to every
lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Weigh the sugar and oranges, score the skin across, and take it
off in quarters. Boil these quarters in a muslin bag in water until they
are quite soft, and they can be pierced easily with the head of a pin;
then cut them into chips about 1 inch long, and as thin as possible.
Should there be a great deal of white stringy pulp, remove it before
cutting the rind into chips. Split open the oranges, scrape out the best
part of the pulp, with the juice, rejecting the white pith and pips.
Make a syrup with the sugar and water; boil it until clear; then put in
the chips, pulp, and juice, and boil the marmalade from 20 minutes to
1/2 hour, removing all the scum as it rises. In boiling the syrup, clear
it carefully from scum before the oranges are added to it.

_Time_.--2 hours to boil the rinds, 10 minutes the syrup, 20 minutes to
1/2 hour the marmalade.

_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in March or April, when Seville oranges are in
perfection.


AN EASY WAY OF MAKING ORANGE MARMALADE.

1568. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of pulp allow 1-1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Choose some fine Seville oranges; put them whole into a stewpan
with sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until they become
perfectly tender, changing the water 2 or 3 times; drain them, take off
the rind, remove the pips from the pulp, weigh it, and to every lb.
allow 1-1/2 of loaf sugar and 1/2 pint of the water the oranges were
last boiled in. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; put in
the pulp, boil for another 10 minutes; then add the peel cut into
strips, and boil the marmalade for another 10 minutes, which completes
the process. Pour it into jars; let it cool; then cover down with
bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of
an egg.

_Time_.--2 hours to boil the oranges; altogether 1/2 hour to boil the
marmalade.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Seasonable_--Make this in March or April.


ORANGE MARMALADE MADE WITH HONEY.

1569. INGREDIENTS.--To 1 quart of the juice and pulp of Seville oranges
allow 2 lbs. of honey, 1 lb. of the rind.

_Mode_.--Peel the oranges and boil the rind in water until tender, and
cut it into strips. Take away the pips from the juice and pulp, and put
it with the honey and chips into a preserving-pan; boil all together for
about 1/2 hour, or until the marmalade is of the proper consistency; put
it into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders.

_Time_.--2 hours to boil the rind, 1/2 hour the marmalade.

_Average cost_, from 7d. to 9d. per lb. pot.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in March or April.


TO PRESERVE ORANGES.

1570. INGREDIENTS.--Oranges; to every lb. of juice and pulp allow 2 lbs.
of loaf sugar; to every pint of water 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Wholly grate or peel the oranges, taking off only the thin
outside portion of the rind. Make a small incision where the stalk is
taken out, squeeze out as much of the juice as can be obtained, and
preserve it in a basin with the pulp that accompanies it. Put the
oranges into cold water; let them stand for 3 days, changing the water
twice; then boil them in fresh water till they are very tender, and put
them to drain. Make a syrup with the above proportion of sugar and
water, sufficient to cover the oranges; let them stand in it for 2 or 3
days; then drain them well. Weigh the juice and pulp, allow double their
weight of sugar, and boil them together until the scum ceases to rise,
which must all be carefully removed; put in the oranges, boil them for
10 minutes, place them in jars, pour over them the syrup, and, when
cold, cover down. They will be fit for use in a week.

_Time_.--3 days for the oranges to remain in water, 3 days in the syrup;
1/2 hour to boil the pulp, 10 minutes the oranges.

_Seasonable_.--This preserve should be made in February or March, when
oranges are plentiful.


ORANGE SALAD.

1571. INGREDIENTS.--6 oranges, 1/4 lb. of muscatel raisins, 2 oz. of
pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.--Peel 5 of the oranges; divide them into slices without breaking
the pulp, and arrange them on a glass dish. Stone the raisins, mix them
with the sugar and brandy, and mingle them with the oranges. Squeeze the
juice of the other orange over the whole, and the dish is ready for
table. A little pounded spice may be put in when the flavour is liked;
but this ingredient must be added very sparingly.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.


COMPOTE OF PEACHES.

1572. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup No. 1512, about 15 small peaches.

_Mode_.--Peaches that are not very large, and that would not look well
for dessert, answer very nicely for a compôte. Divide the peaches, take
out the stones, and pare the fruit; make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, put
in the peaches, and stew them gently for about 10 minutes. Take them out
without breaking, arrange them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or
3 minutes, let it cool, pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, it will
be ready for table.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ in August and September.

    PEACH AND NECTARINE.--The peach and nectarine, which are among
    the most delicious of our fruits, are considered as varieties of
    the same species, produced by cultivation. The former is
    characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter is
    smooth; but, as a proof of their identity as to species, trees
    have borne peaches on one part and nectarines on another; and
    even a single fruit has had down on one side, and on the other
    none; the trees are almost exactly alike, as well as the
    blossoms. Pliny states that the peach was originally brought
    from Persia, where it grows naturally. At Montreuil, a village
    near Paris, almost the whole population is employed in the
    cultivation of peaches; and this occupation has maintained the
    inhabitants for ages, and, in consequence, they raise better
    peaches than anywhere else in France. In Maryland and Virginia,
    peaches grow nearly wild in orchards resembling forests; but the
    fruit is of little value for the table, being employed only in
    fattening hogs and for the distillation of peach brandy. On the
    east side of the Andes, peaches grow wild among the cornfields
    and in the mountains, and are dried as an article of food. The
    young leaves of the peach are sometimes used in cookery, from
    their agreeable flavour; and a liqueur resembling the fine
    noyeau of Martinique may be made by steeping them in brandy
    sweetened with sugar and fined with milk: gin may also be
    flavoured in the same manner. The kernels of the fruit have the
    same flavour. The nectarine is said to have received its name
    from nectar, the particular drink of the gods. Though it is
    considered as the same species as the peach, it is not known
    which of the varieties come from the other; the nectarine, is by
    some considered as the superior fruit.

PEACHES PRESERVED IN BRANDY.

1573. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit weighed before being stoned,
allow 1/4 lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar; brandy.

_Mode_.--Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather; wipe and weigh it,
and remove the stones as carefully as possible, without injuring the
peaches much. Put them into a jar, sprinkle amongst them pounded loaf
sugar in the above proportion, and pour brandy over the fruit. Cover the
jar down closely, place it in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire,
and bring the brandy to the simmering-point, but do not allow it to
boil. Take the fruit out carefully, without breaking it; put it into
small jars, pour over it the brandy, and, when cold, exclude the air by
covering the jars with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both
sides with the white of an egg. Apricots may be done in the same manner,
and, if properly prepared, will be found delicious.

_Time_.--From 10 to 20 minutes to bring the brandy to the
simmering-point.

_Seasonable_ in August and September.


BAKED PEARS.

1574. INGREDIENTS.--12 pears, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 cloves, 10 whole
allspice; to every pint of water allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Pare and cut the pears into halves, and, should they be very
large, into quarters; leave the stalks on, and carefully remove the
cores. Place them in a clean baking-jar, with a closely-fitting lid; add
to them the lemon-rind cut in strips, the juice of 1/2 lemon, the
cloves, pounded allspice, and sufficient water just to cover the whole,
with sugar in the above proportion. Cover the jar down closely, put it
into a very cool oven, and bake the pears from 5 to 6 hours, but be very
careful that the oven is not too hot. To improve the colour of the
fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added; but this will not
be found necessary if the pears are very gently baked.

_Time_.--Large pears, 5 to 6 hours, in a very slow oven.

_Average cost_, 1d. to 2d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to January.

    PEAR.--The pear, like the apple, is indigenous to this country;
    but the wild pear is a very unsatisfactory fruit. The best
    varieties were brought from the East by the Romans, who
    cultivated them with care, and probably introduced some of their
    best sorts into this island, to which others were added by the
    inhabitants of the monasteries. The Dutch and Flemings, as well
    as the French, have excelled in the cultivation of the pear, and
    most of the late varieties introduced are from France and
    Flanders. The pear is a hardy tree, and a longer liver than the
    apple: it has been known to exist for centuries. There are now
    about 150 varieties of this fruit. Though perfectly wholesome
    when ripe, the pear is not so when green; but in this state it
    is fit for stewing. An agreeable beverage, called perry, is made
    from pears, and the varieties which are least fit for eating
    make the best perry.

PRESERVED PEARS.

1575. INGREDIENTS.--Jargonelle pears; to every lb. of sugar allow 1/2
pint of water.

_Mode_.--Procure some Jargonelle pears, not too ripe; put them into a
stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and simmer them till rather
tender, but do not allow them to break; then put them into cold water.
Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes, skim well, put in the
pears, and simmer them gently for 5 minutes. Repeat the simmering for 3
successive days, taking care not to let the fruit break. The last time
of boiling, the syrup should be made rather richer, and the fruit boiled
for 10 minutes. When the pears are done, drain them from the syrup, and
dry them in the sun, or in a cool oven; or they may be kept in the
syrup, and dried as they are wanted.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to simmer the pears in water, 20 minutes in the syrup.

_Average cost_, 1d. to 2d. each.

_Seasonable_.--Most plentiful in September and October.


STEWED PEARS.

[Illustration: STEWED PEARS.]

1576. INGREDIENTS.--8 large pears, 5 oz. of loaf sugar, 6 cloves, 6
whole allspice, 1/2 pint of water, 1/4 pint of port wine, a few drops of
prepared cochineal.

_Mode_.--Pare the pears, halve them, remove the cores, and leave the
stalks on; put them into a _lined_ saucepan with the above ingredients,
and let them simmer very gently until tender, which will be in from 3 to
4 hours, according to the quality of the pears. They should be watched,
and, when done, carefully lifted out on to a glass dish without breaking
them. Boil up the syrup quickly for 2 or 3 minutes; allow it to cool a
little, pour it over the pears, and let them get perfectly cold. To
improve the colour of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may
be added, which rather enhances the beauty of this dish. The fruit must
not be boiled fast, but only simmered, and watched that it be not too
much done.

_Time_.--3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from September to January.

    THE BON CHRETIEN PEAR.--The valuable variety of pear called _Bon
    Chrétien_, which comes to our tables in winter, either raw or
    cooked, received its name through the following incident:--Louis
    XI., king of France, had sent for Saint Francois de Paule from
    the lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his
    health through his intercession. The saint brought with him the
    seeds of this pear; and, as he was called at court Le Bon
    Chrétien, this fruit obtained the name of him to whom France
    owed its introduction.

PINEAPPLE CHIPS.

1577. INGREDIENTS.--Pineapples; sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Pare and slice the fruit thinly, put it on dishes, and strew
over it plenty of pounded sugar. Keep it in a hot closet, or very slow
oven, 8 or 10 days, and turn the fruit every day until dry; then put the
pieces of pine on tins, and place them in a quick oven for 10 minutes.
Let them cool, and store them away in dry boxes, with paper between each
layer.

_Time_.--8 to 10 days.

_Seasonable_.--Foreign pines, in July and August.


PRESERVED PINEAPPLE.

1578. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed after being pared,
allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar; 1/4 pint of water.

_Mode_.--The pines for making this preserve should be perfectly sound
but ripe. Cut them into rather thick slices, as the fruit shrinks very
much in the boiling. Pare off the rind carefully, that none of the pine
be wasted; and, in doing so, notch it in and out, as the edge cannot be
smoothly cut without great waste. Dissolve a portion of the sugar in a
preserving-pan with 1/4 pint of water; when this is melted, gradually
add the remainder of the sugar, and boil it until it forms a clear
syrup, skimming well. As soon as this is the case, put in the pieces of
pine, and boil well for at least 1/2 hour, or until it looks nearly
transparent. Put it into pots, cover down when cold, and store away in a
dry place.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to boil the fruit. _Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb.
pot.

_Seasonable_.--Foreign pines, in July and August.

    THE PINEAPPLE IN HEATHENDOM.--Heathen nations invented
    protective divinities for their orchards (such as Pomona,
    Vertumnus, Priapus, &c.), and benevolent patrons for their
    fruits: thus, the olive-tree grew under the auspices of Minerva;
    the Muses cherished the palm-tree, Bacchus the fig and grape,
    _and the pine and its cone were consecrated to the great Cyble_.

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE, for Present Use.

1579. INGREDIENTS.--Pineapple, sugar, water.

_Mode_.--Cut the pine into slices 1/4 inch in thickness; peel them, and
remove the hard part from the middle. Put the parings and hard pieces
into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and boil for 1/4
hour. Strain the liquor, and put in the slices of pine. Stew them for 10
minutes, add sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, and boil
again for another 1/4 hour; skim well, and the preserve will be ready
for use. It must be eaten soon, as it will keep but a very short time.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the parings in water; 10 minutes to boil the
pine without sugar, 1/4 hour with sugar.

_Average cost_.--Foreign pines, 1s. to 3s. each; English, from 2s. to
12s. per lb.

_Seasonable_.--Foreign, in July and August; English, all the year.


PLUM JAM.

1580. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of plums, weighed before being stoned,
allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--In making plum jam, the quantity of sugar for each lb. of fruit
must be regulated by the quality and size of the fruit, some plums
requiring much more sugar than others. Divide the plums, take out the
stones, and put them on to large dishes, with roughly-pounded sugar
sprinkled over them in the above proportion, and let them remain for one
day; then put them into a preserving-pan, stand them by the side of the
fire to simmer gently for about 1/2 hour, and then boil them rapidly for
another 15 minutes. The scum must be carefully removed as it rises, and
the jam must be well stirred all the time, or it will burn at the bottom
of the pan, and so spoil the colour and flavour of the preserve. Some of
the stones may be cracked, and a few kernels added to the jam just
before it is done: these impart a very delicious flavour to the plums.
The above proportion of sugar would answer for Orleans plums; the
Impératrice Magnum-bonum, and Winesour would not require quite so much.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to simmer gently, 1/4 hour to boil rapidly.

_Best plums for preserving_.--Violets, Mussels, Orleans, Impératrice
Magnum-bonum, and Winesour.

_Seasonable_ from the end of July to the beginning of October.

    PLUMS.--The Damson, or Damascene plum, takes its name from
    Damascus, where it grows in great quantities, and whence it was
    brought into Italy about 114 B.C. The Orleans plum is from
    France. The Greengage is called after the Gage family, who first
    brought it into England from the monastery of the Chartreuse, at
    Paris, where it still bears the name of Reine Claude. The
    Magnum-bonum is our largest plum, and greatly esteemed for
    preserves and culinary purposes. The best sorts of plums are
    agreeable at the dessert, and, when perfectly ripe, are
    wholesome; but some are too astringent. They lose much of their
    bad qualities by baking, and are extensively used, from their
    cheapness, when in full season, in tarts and preserves; but they
    are not a very wholesome fruit, and should be eaten in
    moderation.

PRESERVED PLUMS.

1581. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar;
for the thin syrup, 1/4 lb. of sugar to each pint of water.

_Mode_.--Select large ripe plums; slightly prick them, to prevent them
from bursting, and simmer them very gently in a syrup made with the
above proportion of sugar and water. Put them carefully into a pan, let
the syrup cool, pour it over the plums, and allow them to remain for two
days. Having previously weighed the other sugar, dip the lumps quickly
into water, and put them into a preserving-pan with no more water than
hangs about them; and boil the sugar to a syrup, carefully skimming it.
Drain the plums from the first syrup; put them into the fresh syrup, and
simmer them very gently until they are clear; lift them out singly into
pots, pour the syrup over, and when cold, cover down to exclude the air.
This preserve will remain good some time, if kept in a dry place, and
makes a very nice addition to a dessert. The magnum-bonum plums answer
for this preserve better than any other kind of plum. Greengages are
also very delicious done in this manner.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the plums in the first syrup;
20 minutes to 1/2 hour very gentle simmering in the second.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.


TO PRESERVE PLUMS DRY.

1582. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water.
_Mode_.--Gather the plums when they are full-grown and just turning
colour; prick them, put them into a saucepan of cold water, and set them
on the fire until the water is on the point of boiling. Then take them
out, drain them, and boil them gently in syrup made with the above
proportion of sugar and water; and if the plums shrink, and will not
take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan; give them another
boil, skim, and set them by. The next day add some more sugar, boiled
almost to candy, to the fruit and syrup; put all together into a
wide-mouthed jar, and place them in a cool oven for 2 nights; then drain
the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and dry
them in a cool oven.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes to boil the plums in the syrup. _Seasonable_
from August to October.

    PLUMS.--The wild sloe is the parent of the plum, but the
    acclimated kinds come from the East. The cultivation of this
    fruit was probably attended to very early in England, as Gerrard
    informs us that, in 1597, he had in his garden, in Holborn,
    threescore sorts. The sloe is a shrub common in our hedgerows,
    and belongs to the natural order _Amygdaleae_; the fruit is
    about the size of a large pea, of a black colour, and covered
    with a bloom of a bright blue. It is one of the few indigenous
    to our island. The juice is extremely sharp and astringent, and
    was formerly employed as a medicine, where astringents were
    necessary. It now assists in the manufacture of a red wine made
    to imitate port, and also for adulteration. The leaves have been
    used to adulterate tea; the fruit, when ripe, makes a good
    preserve.

STEWED FRENCH PLUMS.

(_A Dessert Dish_.)

1583. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of French plums, 3/4 pint of syrup No.
1512, 1 glass of port wine, the rind and juice of 1 lemon.

_Mode_.--Stew the plums gently in water for 1 hour; strain the water,
and with it make the syrup. When it is clear, put in the plums with the
port wine, lemon-juice, and rind, and simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hour.
Arrange the plums on a glass dish, take out the lemon-rind, pour the
syrup over the plums, and, when cold, they will be ready for table. A
little allspice stewed with the fruit is by many persons considered an
improvement.

_Time_.--1 hour to stew the plums in water, 1-1/2 hour in the syrup.

_Average cost_,--plums sufficiently good for stewing, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.


PRESERVED PUMPKIN.

1584. INGREDIENTS.--To each lb. of pumpkin allow 1 lb. of roughly
pounded loaf sugar, 1 gill of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Obtain a good sweet pumpkin; halve it, take out the seeds, and
pare off the rind; cut it into neat slices, or into pieces about the
size of a five-shilling piece. Weigh the pumpkin, put the slices in a
pan or deep dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between them; pour
the lemon-juice over the top, and let the whole remain for 2 or 3 days.
Boil altogether, adding 1/4 pint of water to every 3 lbs. of sugar used
until the pumpkin becomes tender; then turn the whole into a pan, where
let it remain for a week; then drain off the syrup, boil it until it is
quite thick; skim, and pour it, boiling, over the pumpkin. A little
bruised ginger and lemon-rind, thinly pared, may be boiled in the syrup
to flavour the pumpkin.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the pumpkin tender.

_Average cost_, 5d. to 7d. per lb. pot.

_Seasonable_ in September and October; but better when made in the
latter month, as the pumpkin is then quite ripe.

_Note_.--Vegetable marrows are very good prepared in the same manner,
but are not quite so rich.


QUINCE JELLY.

1585. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of juice allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Pare and slice the quinces, and put them into a preserving-pan
with sufficient water to float them. Boil them until tender, and the
fruit is reduced to a pulp; strain off the clear juice, and to each pint
allow the above proportion of loaf sugar. Boil the juice and sugar
together for about 3/4 hour; remove all the scum as it rises, and, when
the jelly appears firm when a little is poured on a plate, it is done.
The residue left on the sieve will answer to make a common marmalade,
for immediate use, by boiling it with 1/2 lb. of common sugar to every
lb. of pulp.

_Time_.--3 hours to boil the quinces in water; 3/4 hour to boil the
jelly.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.


QUINCE MARMALADE.

1586. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of quince pulp allow 3/4 lb. of loaf
sugar.

_Mode_.--Slice the quinces into a preserving-pan, adding sufficient
water for them to float; place them on the fire to stew, until reduced
to a pulp, keeping them stirred occasionally from the bottom, to prevent
their burning; then pass the pulp through a hair sieve, to keep back the
skin and seeds. Weigh the pulp, and to each lb. add lump sugar in the
above proportion, broken very small. Place the whole on the fire, and
keep it well stirred from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon,
until reduced to a marmalade, which may be known by dropping a little on
a cold plate, when, if it jellies, it is done. Put it into jars whilst
hot; let it cool, and cover with pieces of oiled paper cut to the size
of the mouths of the jars. The tops of them may be afterwards covered
with pieces of bladder, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with
the white of an egg.

_Time_.--3 hours to boil the quinces without the sugar; 3/4 hour to boil
the pulp with the sugar.

_Average cost_, from 8d. to 9d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 pint of sliced quinces for a lb. pot.

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October.


RAISIN CHEESE.

1587. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of raisins allow a lb. of loaf sugar;
pounded cinnamon and cloves to taste.

_Mode_.--Stone the raisins; put them into a stewpan with the sugar,
cinnamon, and cloves, and let them boil for 1-1/2 hour, stirring all the
time. Let the preparation cool a little, pour it into a glass dish, and
garnish with strips of candied lemon-peel and citron. This will remain
good some time, if kept in a dry place.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. _Sufficient_.--1 lb. for 4 or 5
persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


RASPBERRY JAM.

1588. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of raspberries allow 1 lb. of sugar,
1/4 pint of red-currant juice.

_Mode_.--Let the fruit for this preserve be gathered in fine weather,
and used as soon after it is picked as possible. Take off the stalks,
put the raspberries into a preserving-pan, break them well with a wooden
spoon, and let them boil for 1/4 hour, keeping them well stirred. Then
add the currant-juice and sugar, and boil again for 1/2 hour. Skim the
jam well after the sugar is added, or the preserve will not be clear.
The addition of the currant juice is a very great improvement to this
preserve, as it gives it a piquant taste, which the flavour of the
raspberries seems to require.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the fruit without the sugar; 1/4 hour after
it is added.

_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. pot.

_Seasonable_ in July and August.


RASPBERRY JELLY.

1589. INGREDIENTS.--To each pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Let the raspberries be freshly gathered, quite ripe, and picked
from the stalks; put them into a large jar, after breaking the fruit a
little with a wooden spoon, and place this jar, covered, in a saucepan
of boiling water. When the juice is well drawn, which will be in from
3/4 to 1 hour, strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or cloth;
measure the juice, and to every pint allow the above proportion of loaf
sugar. Put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan, place it over the
fire, and boil gently until the jelly thickens when a little is poured
on a plate; carefully remove all the scum as it rises, pour the jelly
into small pots, cover down, and keep in a dry place. This jelly answers
for making raspberry cream, and for flavouring various sweet dishes,
when, in winter, the fresh fruit is not obtainable.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour to draw the juice.

_Average cost_, from 9d. to 1s. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient._--From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint of
juice.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made in July or August.


RHUBARB JAM.

1590. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar,
the rind of 1/2 lemon.

_Mode_.--Wipe the rhubarb perfectly dry, take off the string or peel,
and weigh it; put it into a preserving-pan, with sugar in the above
proportion; mince the lemon-rind very finely, add it to the other
ingredients, and place the preserving-pan by the side of the fire; keep
stirring to prevent the rhubarb from burning, and when the sugar is well
dissolved, put the pan more over the fire, and let the jam boil until it
is done, taking care to keep it well skimmed and stirred with a wooden
or silver spoon. Pour it into pots, and cover down with oiled and egged
papers.

_Time_.--If the rhubarb is young and tender, 3/4 hour, reckoning from
the time it simmers equally; old rhubarb, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 5d. to 7d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient_.--About 1 pint of sliced rhubarb to fill a lb. pot.

_Seasonable_ from February to April.


RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM, to resemble Scotch Marmalade.

1591. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of finely-cut rhubarb, 6 oranges, 1-1/2 lb.
of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Peel the oranges; remove as much of the white pith as possible,
divide them, and take out the pips; slice the pulp into a
preserving-pan, add the rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips,
and the loaf sugar, which should be broken small. Peel the rhubarb, cut
it into thin pieces, put it to the oranges, and stir altogether over a
gentle fire until the jam is done. Remove all the scum as it rises, put
the preserve into pots, and, when cold, cover down. Should the rhubarb
be very old, stew it alone for 1/4 hour before the other ingredients are
added.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Seasonable_ from February to April.


RASPBERRY AND CURRANT, or any Fresh Fruit Salad.

(_A Dessert Dish_.)

1592. _Mode_.--Fruit salads are made by stripping the fruit from the
stalks, piling it on a dish, and sprinkling over it finely-pounded
sugar. They may be made of strawberries, raspberries, currants, or any
of these fruits mixed; peaches also make a very good salad. After the
sugar is sprinkled over, about 6 large tablespoonfuls of wine or brandy,
or 3 tablespoonfuls of liqueur, should be poured in the middle of the
fruit; and, when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon may be
added. In helping the fruit, it should be lightly stirred, that the wine
and sugar may be equally distributed.

_Sufficient._--1-1/2 pint of fruit, with 3 oz. of pounded sugar, for 4
or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in summer.


STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM.

1593. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of picked strawberries allow 1/3 pint
of cream, 2 oz. of finely-pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Pick the stalks from the fruit, place it on a glass dish,
sprinkle over it pounded sugar, and slightly stir the strawberries, that
they may all be equally sweetened; pour the cream over the top, and
serve. Devonshire cream, when it can be obtained, is exceedingly
delicious for this dish; and, if very thick indeed, may be diluted with
a little thin cream or milk.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June and July.


STRAWBERRY JAM.

1594. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 1/2 pint of red-currant
juice, 1-1/4 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Strip the currants from the stalks, put them into a jar; place
this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until the juice is
well drawn from the fruit; strain the currants, measure the juice, put
it into a preserving-pan, and add the sugar. Select well-ripened but
sound strawberries; pick them from the stalks, and when the sugar is
dissolved in the currant juice, put in the fruit. Simmer the whole over
a moderate fire, from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as it
rises. Stir the jam only enough to prevent it from burning at the bottom
of the pan, as the fruit should be preserved as whole as possible. Put
the jam into jars, and when cold, cover down.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time the jam simmers all
over.

_Average cost_, from 7d. to 8d. per lb. pot.

_Sufficient._--12 pints of strawberries will make 12 lb. pots of jam.

_Seasonable_ in June and July.


PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES IN WINE.

1595. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart bottle allow 1/4 lb. of
finely-pounded loaf sugar; sherry or Madeira.

_Mode_.--Let the fruit be gathered in fine weather, and used as soon as
picked. Have ready some perfectly dry glass bottles, and some nice soft
corks or bungs. Pick the stalks from the strawberries, drop them into
the bottles, sprinkling amongst them pounded sugar in the above
proportion, and when the fruit reaches to the neck of the bottle, fill
up with sherry or Madeira. Cork the bottles down with new corks, and dip
them into melted resin.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in June or July.


TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WHOLE.

1596. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 1-1/2 lb. of good loaf
sugar, 1 pint of red-currant juice.

_Mode_.--Choose the strawberries not too ripe, of a fine large sort and
of a good colour. Pick off the stalks, lay the strawberries in a dish,
and sprinkle over them half the quantity of sugar, which must be finely
pounded. Shake the dish gently, that the sugar may be equally
distributed and touch the under-side of the fruit, and let it remain for
1 day. Then have ready the currant-juice, drawn as for red-currant jelly
No. 1533; boil it with the remainder of the sugar until it forms a thin
syrup, and in this simmer the strawberries and sugar, until the whole is
sufficiently jellied. Great care must be taken not to stir the fruit
roughly, as it should be preserved as whole as possible. Strawberries
prepared in this manner are very good served in glasses and mixed with
thin cream.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the strawberries in the syrup.

_Seasonable_ in June and July.


TO MAKE EVERTON TOFFEE.

1597. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of powdered loaf sugar, 1 teacupful of water,
1/4 lb. of butter, 6 drops of essence of lemon.

_Mode_.--Put the water and sugar into a brass pan, and beat the butter
to a cream. When the sugar is dissolved, add the butter, and keep
stirring the mixture over the fire until it sets, when a little is
poured on to a buttered dish; and just before the toffee is done, add
the essence of lemon. Butter a dish or tin, pour on it the mixture, and
when cool, it will easily separate from the dish. Butter-Scotch, an
excellent thing for coughs, is made with brown, instead of white sugar,
omitting the water, and flavoured with 1/2 oz. of powdered ginger. It is
made in the same manner as toffee.

_Time_.--18 to 35 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ to make a lb. of toffee.


DESSERT DISHES.

[Illustration: DISH OF NUTS.]

[Illustration: BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.]

[Illustration: DISH OF MIXED FRUIT.]

1598. The tazza, or dish with stem, the same as that shown in our
illustrations, is now the favourite shape for dessert-dishes. The fruit
can be arranged and shown to better advantage on these tall high dishes
than on the short flat ones. All the dishes are now usually placed down
the centre of the table, dried and fresh fruit alternately, the former
being arranged on small round or oval glass plates, and the latter on
the dishes with stems. The fruit should always be gathered on the same
day that it is required for table, and should be tastefully arranged on
the dishes, with leaves between and round it. By purchasing fruits that
are in season, a dessert can be supplied at a very moderate cost. These,
with a few fancy biscuits, crystallized fruit, bon-bons, &c., are
sufficient for an ordinary dessert. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained,
dried and foreign fruits, compotes, baked pears, stewed Normandy
pippins, &c. &c., must supply its place, with the addition of preserves,
bon-bons, cakes, biscuits, &c. At fashionable tables, forced fruit is
served growing in pots, these pots being hidden in more ornamental ones,
and arranged with the other dishes.--(See coloured plate W1.) A few
vases of fresh flowers, tastefully arranged, add very much to the
appearance of the dessert; and, when these are not obtainable, a few
paper ones, mixed with green leaves, answer very well as a substitute.
In decorating a table, whether for luncheon, dessert, or supper, a vase
or two of flowers should never be forgotten, as they add so much to the
elegance of the _tout ensemble_. In summer and autumn, ladies residing
in the country can always manage to have a few freshly-gathered flowers
on their tables, and should never be without this inexpensive luxury. On
the continent, vases or epergnes filled with flowers are invariably
placed down the centre of the dinner-table at regular distances. Ices
for dessert are usually moulded: when this is not the case, they are
handed round in glasses with wafers to accompany them. Preserved ginger
is frequently handed round after ices, to prepare the palate for the
delicious dessert wines. A basin or glass of finely-pounded lump sugar
must never be omitted at a dessert, as also a glass jug of fresh cold
water (iced, if possible), and two goblets by its side. Grape-scissors,
a melon-knife and fork, and nutcrackers, should always be put on table,
if there are dishes of fruit requiring them. Zests are sometimes served
at the close of the dessert; such as anchovy toasts or biscuits. The
French often serve plain or grated cheese with a dessert of fresh or
dried fruit. At some tables, finger-glasses are placed at the right of
each person, nearly half filled with cold spring water, and in winter
with tepid water. These precede the dessert. At other tables, a glass or
vase is simply handed round, filled with perfumed water, into which each
guest dips the corner of his napkin, and, when needful, refreshes his
lips and the tips of his fingers.

[Illustration: BOX OF CHOCOLATE.]

[Illustration: DISH OF APPLES.]

[Illustration: ALMONDS AND RAISINS.]

[Illustration: DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.]

After the dishes are placed, and every one is provided with plates,
glasses, spoons, &c., the wine should be put at each end of the table,
cooled or otherwise, according to the season. If the party be small, the
wine may be placed only at the top of the table, near the host.


DISH OF NUTS.

1599. These are merely arranged piled high in the centre of the dish, as
shown in the engraving, with or without leaves round the edge. Filberts
should always be served with the outer skin or husk on them; and walnuts
should be well wiped with a damp cloth, and then--with a dry one, to
remove the unpleasant sticky feeling the shells frequently have.

_Seasonable_.--Filberts from September to March, good; may be had after
that time, but are generally shrivelled and dry. Walnuts from September
to January.

    HAZEL NUT AND FILBERT.--The common Hazel is the wild, and the
    Filbert the cultivated state of the same tree. The hazel is
    found wild, not only in forests and hedges, in dingles and
    ravines, but occurs in extensive tracts in the more northern and
    mountainous parts of the country. It was formerly one of the
    most abundant of those trees which are indigenous in this
    island. It is seldom cultivated as a fruit-tree, though perhaps
    its nuts are superior in flavour to the others. The Spanish nuts
    imported are a superior kind, but they are somewhat oily and
    rather indigestible. Filberts, both the red and the white, and
    the cob-nut, are supposed to be merely varieties of the common
    hazel, which have been produced, partly by the superiority of
    soil and climate, and partly by culture. They were originally
    brought out of Greece to Italy, whence they have found their way
    to Holland, and from that country to England. It is supposed
    that, within a few miles of Maidstone, in Kent, there are more
    filberts grown than in all England besides; and it is from that
    place that the London market is supplied. The filbert is longer
    than the common nut, though of the same thickness, and has a
    larger kernel. The cob-nut is a still larger variety, and is
    roundish. Filberts are more esteemed at the dessert than common
    nuts, and are generally eaten with salt. They are very free from
    oil, and disagree with few persons.

    WALNUTS.--The Walnut is a native of Persia, the Caucasus, and
    China, but was introduced to this kingdom from France. The ripe
    kernel is brought to the dessert on account of its agreeable
    flavour; and the fruit is also much used in the green state, but
    before the stone hardens, as a pickle. In Spain, grated walnuts
    are employed in tarts and other dishes. The Walnut abounds in
    oil which is expressed and which, being of a highly drying
    nature, and very limpid, is much employed for delicate painting.
    This, on the continent, is sometimes used as a substitute for
    olive-oil in cooking, but is very apt to turn rancid. It is also
    manufactured into a kind of soap. The mare, or refuse matter
    after the oil is extracted, proves very nutritious for poultry
    or other domestic animals. In Switzerland, this is eaten by poor
    people under the name of _pain amer._

BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.

1600. If the box which contains them is exceedingly ornamental, it may
be placed on the table; if small, on a glass dish; if large, without
one, French plums may also be arranged on a glass plate, and garnished
with bright-coloured sweetmeats, which make a very good effect. All
fancy boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit may be put on the table
or not, at pleasure. These little matters of detail must, of course, be
left to individual taste.

_Seasonable_.--May be purchased all the year; but are in greater
perfection in the winter, and are more suitable for that season, as
fresh fruit cannot be obtained.


DISH OF MIXED FRUIT.

1601. For a centre dish, a mixture of various fresh fruits has a
remarkably good effect, particularly if a pine be added to the list. A
high raised appearance should be given to the fruit, which is done in
the following manner. Place a tumbler in the centre of the dish, and, in
this tumbler, the pine, crown uppermost; round the tumbler put a thick
layer of moss, and, over this, apples, pears, plums, peaches, and such
fruit as is simultaneously in season. By putting a layer of moss
underneath, so much fruit is not required, besides giving a better shape
to the dish. Grapes should be placed on the top of the fruit, a portion
of some of the bunches hanging over the sides of the dish in a négligé
kind of manner, which takes off the formal look of the dish. In
arranging the plums, apples, &c., let the colours contrast well.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a dessert in September or October.

    GRAPES.--France produces about a thousand varieties of the
    grape, which is cultivated more extensively in that country than
    in any other. Hygienists agree in pronouncing grapes as among
    the best of fruits. The grape possesses several rare qualities:
    it is nourishing and fattening, and its prolonged use has often
    overcome the most obstinate cases of constipation. The skins and
    pips of grapes should not be eaten.

BOX OF CHOCOLATE.

1602. This is served in an ornamental box, placed on a glass plate or
dish.

_Seasonable_.--May be purchased at any time.


DISH OF APPLES.

1603. The apples should be nicely wiped with a dry cloth, and arranged
on a dish, piled high in the centre, with evergreen leaves between each
layer. The inferior apples should form the bottom layer, with the
bright-coloured large ones at the top. The leaves of the laurel, bay,
holly, or any shrub green in winter, are suitable for garnishing dessert
dishes. Oranges may be arranged in the same manner; they should also be
wiped with a dry cloth before being sent to table.


DISH OF MIXED SUMMER FRUIT.

1604. This dish consists of cherries, raspberries, currants, and
strawberries, piled in different layers, with plenty of leaves between
each layer; so that each fruit is well separated. The fruit should be
arranged with a due regard to colour, so that they contrast nicely one
with the other. Our engraving shows a layer of white cherries at the
bottom, then one of red raspberries; over that a layer of white
currants, and at the top some fine scarlet strawberries.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.


ALMONDS AND RAISINS.

1605. These are usually served on glass dishes, the fruit piled high in
the centre, and the almonds blanched, and strewn over. To blanch the
almonds, put them into a small mug or teacup, pour over them boiling
water, let them remain for 2 or 3 minutes, and the skins may then be
easily removed. Figs, dates, French plums, &c., are all served on small
glass plates or oval dishes, but without the almonds.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but more suitable in winter, when fresh fruit
is not obtainable.

    DATES.--Dates are imported into Britain, in a dried state, from
    Barbary and Egypt, and, when in good condition, they are much
    esteemed. An inferior kind has lately become common, which are
    dried hard, and have little or no flavour. They should be chosen
    large, softish, not much wrinkled, of a reddish-yellow colour on
    the outside, with a whitish membrane between the fruit and the
    stone.

DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.

1606. Fine strawberries, arranged in the manner shown in the engraving,
look exceedingly well. The inferior ones should be placed at the bottom
of the dish, and the others put in rows pyramidically, with the stalks
downwards; so that when the whole is completed, nothing but the red part
of the fruit is visible. The fruit should be gathered with rather long
stalks, as there is then something to support it, and it can be placed
more upright in each layer. A few of the finest should be reserved to
crown the top.


TO HAVE WALNUTS FRESH THROUGHOUT THE SEASON.

1607. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of water allow 1 teaspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Place the walnuts in the salt and water for 24 hours at least;
then take them out, and rub them dry. Old nuts may be freshened in this
manner; or walnuts, when first picked, may be put into an earthen pan
with salt sprinkled amongst them, and with damped hay placed on the top
of them, and then covered down with a lid. They must be well wiped
before they are put on table.

_Seasonable_.--Should be stored away in September or October.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXXII.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.


MILK.

1608. Milk is obtained only from the class of animals called Mammalia,
and is intended by Nature for the nourishment of their young. The milk
of each animal is distinguished by some peculiarities; but as that of
the cow is by far the most useful to us in this part of the world, our
observations will be confined to that variety.

1609. Milk, when drawn from the cow, is of a yellowish-white colour, and
is the most yellow at the beginning of the period of lactation. Its
taste is agreeable, and rather saccharine. The viscidity and specific
gravity of milk are somewhat greater than that of water; but these
properties vary somewhat in the milk procured from different
individuals. On an average, the specific gravity of milk is 1.035, water
being 1. The small cows of the Alderney breed afford the richest milk.

1610. Milk which is carried to a considerable distance, so as to be much
agitated, and cooled before it is put into pans to settle for cream,
never throws up so much, nor such rich cream, as if the same milk had
been put into pans directly after it was milked.

1611. Milk, considered as an aliment, is of such importance in domestic
economy as to render all the improvements in its production extremely
valuable. To enlarge upon the antiquity of its use is unnecessary; it
has always been a favourite food in Britain. "Lacte et carno vivunt,"
says Caesar, in his Commentaries; the English of which is, "the
inhabitants subsist upon flesh and milk." The breed of the cow has
received great improvement in modern times, as regards the quantity and
quality of the milk which she affords; the form of milch-cows, their
mode of nourishment, and progress, are also manifest in the management
of the dairy.

1612. Although milk in its natural state be a fluid, yet, considered as
an aliment, it is both solid and fluid: for no sooner does it enter the
stomach, than it is coagulated by the gastric juice, and separated into
curd and whey, the first of these being extremely nutritive.

1613. Milk of the _human subject_ is much thinner than cow's milk;
_Ass's milk_ comes the nearest to human milk of any other; _Goat's milk_
is something thicker and richer than cow's milk; _Ewe's milk_ has the
appearance of cow's milk, and affords a larger quantity of cream;
_Mare's milk_ contains more sugar than that of the ewe; _Camel's milk_
is used only in Africa; _Buffalo's milk_ is employed in India.

1614. From no other substance, solid or fluid, can so great a number of
distinct kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk; some forming food,
others drink; some of them delicious, and deserving the name of
luxuries; all of them wholesome, and some medicinal: indeed, the variety
of aliments that seems capable of being produced from milk, appears to
be quite endless. In every age this must have been a subject for
experiment, and every nation has added to the number by the invention of
some peculiarity of its own.


BUTTER.

1615. BECKMAN, in his "History of Inventions," states that butter was
not used either by the Greeks or Romans in cooking, nor was it brought
upon their tables at certain meals, as is the custom at present. In
England it has been made from time immemorial, though the art of making
cheese is said not to have been known to the ancient Britons, and to
have been learned from their conquerors.

1616. The taste of butter is peculiar, and very unlike any other fatty
substance. It is extremely agreeable when of the best quality; but its
flavour depends much upon the food given to the cows: to be good, it
should not adhere to the knife.

1617. Butter, with regard to its dietetic properties, may be regarded
nearly in the light of vegetable oils and animal fats; but it becomes
sooner rancid than most other fat oils. When fresh, it cannot but be
considered as very wholesome; but it should be quite free from
rancidity. If slightly salted when it is fresh, its wholesomeness is
probably not at all impaired; but should it begin to turn rancid,
salting will not correct its unwholesomeness. When salt butter is put
into casks, the upper part next the air is very apt to become rancid,
and this rancidity is also liable to affect the whole cask.

1618. _Epping butter_ is the kind most esteemed in London. _Fresh
butter_ comes to London from Buckinghamshire, Suffolk, Oxfordshire,
Yorkshire, Devonshire, &c. _Cambridge butter_ is esteemed next to fresh;
_Devonshire butter_ is nearly similar in quality to the latter; _Irish
butter_ sold in London is all salted, but is generally good. The number
of firkins exported annually from Ireland amounts to 420,000, equal to a
million of money. _Dutch butter_ is in good repute all over Europe,
America, and even India; and no country in the world is so successful in
the manufacture of this article, Holland supplying more butter to the
rest of the world than any country whatever.

1619. There are two methods pursued in the manufacture of butter. In
one, the cream is separated from the milk, and in that state it is
converted into butter by churning, as is the practice about Epping; in
the other, milk is subjected to the same process, which is the method
usually followed in Cheshire. The first method is generally said to give
the richest butter, and the latter the largest quantity, though some are
of opinion that there is little difference either in quality or
quantity.


CHEESE.

1620. CHEESE is the curd formed from milk by artificial coagulation,
pressed and dried for use. Curd, called also casein and caseous matter,
or the basis of cheese, exists in the milk, and not in the cream, and
requires only to be separated by coagulation. The coagulation, however,
supposes some alteration of the curd. By means of the substance employed
to coagulate it, it is rendered insoluble in water. When the curd is
freed from the whey, kneaded and pressed to expel it entirely, it
becomes cheese. This assumes a degree of transparency, and possesses
many of the properties of coagulated albumen. If it be well dried, it
does not change by exposure to the air; but if it contain moisture, it
soon putrefies. It therefore requires some salt to preserve it, and this
acts likewise as a kind of seasoning. All our cheese is coloured more or
less, except that made from skim milk. The colouring substances employed
are arnatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they
are adulterated; and it is said that arnatto sometimes contains red
lead.

1621. Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the materials
of which it is composed. It is made--1. Of entire milk, as in Cheshire;
2. of milk and cream, as at Stilton; 3. of new milk mixed with skimmed
milk, as in Gloucestershire; 4. of skimmed milk only, as in Suffolk,
Holland, and Italy.

1622. The principal varieties of cheese used in England are the
following:--_Cheshire cheese_, famed all over Europe for its rich
quality and fine piquant flavour. It is made of entire new milk, the
cream not being taken off. _Gloucester cheese_ is much milder in its
taste than the Cheshire. There are two kinds of Gloucester
cheese,--single and double. _Single Gloucester_ is made of skimmed milk,
or of the milk deprived of half the cream; _Double Gloucester_ is a
cheese that pleases almost every palate: it is made of the whole milk
and cream. _Stilton cheese_ is made by adding the cream of one day to
the entire milk of the next: it was first made at Stilton, in
Leicestershire. _Sage cheese_ is so called from the practice of
colouring some curd with bruised sage, marigold-leaves, and parsley, and
mixing this with some uncoloured curd. With the Romans, and during the
middle ages, this practice was extensively adopted. _Cheddar cheese_
much resembles Parmesan. It has a very agreeable taste and flavour, and
has a spongy appearance. _Brickbat cheese_ has nothing remarkable except
its form. It is made by turning with rennet a mixture of cream and new
milk. The curd is put into a wooden vessel the shape of a brick, and is
then pressed and dried in the usual way. _Dunlop cheese_ has a
peculiarly mild and rich taste: the best is made entirely from new milk.
_New cheese_ (as it is called in London) is made chiefly in
Lincolnshire, and is either made of all cream, or, like Stilton. by
adding the cream of one day's milking to the milk that comes immediately
from the cow: they are extremely thin, and are compressed gently two or
three times, turned for a few days, and then eaten new with radishes,
salad, &c. _Skimmed Milk cheese_ is made for sea voyages principally.
_Parmesan cheese_ is made in Parma and Piacenza. It is the most
celebrated of all cheese: it is made entirely of skimmed cow's milk. The
high flavour which it has, is supposed to be owing to the rich herbage
of the meadows of the Po, where the cows are pastured. The best Parmesan
is kept for three or four years, and none is carried to market till it
is at least six months old. _Dutch cheese_ derives its peculiar pungent
taste from the practice adopted in Holland of coagulating the milk with
muriatic acid instead of rennet. _Swiss cheeses_ in their several
varieties are all remarkable for their fine flavour. That from
_Gruyère_, a bailiwick in the canton of Fribourg, is best known in
England. It is flavoured by the dried herb of _Melilotos officinalis_ in
powder. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and
Saxony. _Cream cheese_, although so called, is not properly cheese, but
is nothing more than cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife.


EGGS.

1623. There is only one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs,
although the qualities of those belonging to different birds vary
somewhat. Those of the common hen are most esteemed as delicate food,
particularly when "new-laid." The quality of eggs depends much upon the
food given to the hen. Eggs in general are considered most easily
digestible when little subjected to the art of cookery. The lightest way
of dressing them is by poaching, which is effected by putting them for a
minute or two into brisk boiling water: this coagulates the external
white, without doing the inner part too much. Eggs are much better when
new-laid than a day or two afterwards. The usual time allotted for
boiling eggs in the shell is 3 to 3-3/4 minutes: less time than that in
boiling water will not be sufficient to solidify the white, and more
will make the yolk hard and less digestible: it is very difficult to
_guess_ accurately as to the time. Great care should be employed in
putting them into the water, to prevent cracking the shell, which
inevitably causes a portion of the white to exude, and lets water into
the egg. Eggs are often beaten up raw in nutritive beverages.

1624. Eggs are employed in a very great many articles of cookery,
entrées, and entremets, and they form an essential ingredient in pastry,
creams, flip, &c. It is particularly necessary that they should be quite
fresh, as nothing is worse than stale eggs. Cobbett justly says, stale,
or even preserved eggs, are things to be run from, not after.

1625. The Metropolis is supplied with eggs from all parts of the
kingdom, and they are likewise largely imported from various places on
the continent; as France, Holland, Belgium, Guernsey, and Jersey. It
appears from official statements mentioned in McCulloch's "Commercial
Dictionary," that the number imported from France alone amounts to about
60,000,000 a year; and supposing them on an average to cost fourpence a
dozen, it follows that we pay our continental neighbours above £83,000 a
year for eggs.

1626. The eggs of different birds vary much in size and colour. Those of
the ostrich are the largest: one laid in the menagerie in Paris weighed
2 lbs. 14 oz., held a pint, and was six inches deep: this is about the
usual size of those brought from Africa. Travellers describe _ostrich
eggs_ as of an agreeable taste: they keep longer than hen's eggs.
Drinking-cups are often made of the shell, which is very strong. The
eggs of the _turkey_ are almost as mild as those of the hen; the egg of
the _goose_ is large, but well-tasted. _Duck's eggs_ have a rich
flavour; the albumen is slightly transparent, or bluish, when set or
coagulated by boiling, which requires less time than hen's eggs.
_Guinea-fowl eggs_ are smaller and more delicate than those of the hen.
Eggs of _wild fowl_ are generally coloured, often spotted; and the taste
generally partakes somewhat of the flavour of the bird they belong to.
Those of land birds that are eaten, as the _plover, lapwing, ruff_, &c.,
are in general much esteemed; but those of _sea-fowl_ have, more or
less, a strong fishy taste. The eggs of the _turtle_ are very numerous:
they consist of yolk only, without shell, and are delicious.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXXIII.


SEPARATION OF MILK AND CREAM.

1627. If it be desired that the milk should be freed entirely from
cream, it should be poured into a very shallow broad pan or dish, not
more than 1-1/2 inch deep, as cream cannot rise through a great depth of
milk. In cold and wet weather, milk is not so rich as it is in summer
and warm weather, and the morning's milk is always richer than the
evening's. The last-drawn milk of each milking, at all times and
seasons, is richer than the first-drawn, and on that account should be
set apart for cream. Milk should be shaken as little as possible when
carried from the cow to the dairy, and should be poured into the pans
very gently. Persons not keeping cows, may always have a little cream,
provided the milk they purchase be pure and unadulterated. As soon as it
comes in, it should be poured into very shallow open pie-dishes, and set
by in a very cool place, and in 7 or 8 hours a nice cream should have
risen to the surface.

    MILK is one of the most complete of all articles of food: that
    is to say, it contains a very large number of the elements which
    enter into the composition of the human body. It "disagrees"
    with fat, heavy, languid people, of slow circulation; and, at
    first, with many people of sedentary habits, and stomachs
    weakened by stimulants of different kinds. But, if exercise can
    be taken and a little patience shown, while the system
    accommodates itself to a new regimen, this bland and soothing
    article of diet is excellent for the majority of thin, nervous
    people; especially for those who have suffered much from
    emotional disturbances, or have relaxed their stomachs by too
    much tea or coffee, taken too hot. Milk is, in fact, a nutrient
    and a sedative at once. Stomachs, however, have their
    idiosyncrasies, and it sometimes proves an unwelcome and
    ill-digested article of food. As milk, when good, contains a
    good deal of respiratory material (fat),--material which _must_
    either be burnt off, or derange the liver, and be rejected in
    other ways, it may disagree because the lungs are not
    sufficiently used in the open air. But it is very probable that
    there are really "constitutions" which cannot take to it; and
    _they_ should not be forced.

TO KEEP MILK AND CREAM IN HOT WEATHER.

1628. When the weather is very warm, and it is very difficult to prevent
milk from turning sour and spoiling the cream, it should be scalded, and
it will then remain good for a few hours. It must on no account be
allowed to boil, or there will be a skin instead of a cream upon the
milk; and the slower the process, the safer will it be. A very good plan
to scald milk, is to put the pan that contains it into a saucepan or
wide kettle of boiling water. When the surface looks thick, the milk is
sufficiently scalded, and it should then be put away in a cool place in
the same vessel that it was scalded in. Cream may be kept for 24 hours,
if scalded without sugar; and by the addition of the latter ingredient,
it will remain good double the time, if kept in a cool place. All pans,
jugs, and vessels intended for milk, should be kept beautifully clean,
and well scalded before the milk is put in, as any negligence in this
respect may cause large quantities of it to be spoiled; and milk should
never be kept in vessels of zinc or copper. Milk may be preserved good
in hot weather, for a few hours, by placing the jug which contains it in
ice, or very cold water; or a pinch of bicarbonate of soda may be
introduced into the liquid.

    MILK, when of good quality, is of an opaque white colour: the
    cream always comes to the top; the well-known milky odour is
    strong; it will boil without altering its appearance, in these
    respects; the little bladders which arise on the surface will
    renew themselves if broken by the spoon. To boil milk is, in
    fact, the simplest way of testing its quality. The commonest
    adulterations of milk are not of a hurtful character. It is a
    good deal thinned with water, and sometimes thickened with a
    little starch, or colored with yolk of egg, or even saffron; but
    these processes have nothing murderous in them.

CURDS AND WHEY.

1629. INGREDIENTS.--A very small piece of rennet, 1/2 gallon of milk.

_Mode_.--Procure from the butcher's a small piece of rennet, which is
the stomach of the calf, taken as soon as it is killed, scoured, and
well rubbed with salt, and stretched on sticks to dry. Pour some boiling
water on the rennet, and let it remain for 6 hours; then use the liquor
to turn the milk. The milk should be warm and fresh from the cow: if
allowed to cool, it must be heated till it is of a degree quite equal to
new milk; but do not let it be too hot. About a tablespoonful or rather
more, would be sufficient to turn the above proportion of milk into
curds and whey; and whilst the milk is turning, let it be kept in rather
a warm place.

_Time_.--From 2 to 3 hours to turn the milk.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


DEVONSHIRE CREAM.

1630. The milk should stand 24 hours in the winter, half that time when
the weather is very warm. The milkpan is then set on a stove, and should
there remain until the milk is quite hot; but it must not boil, or there
will be a thick skin on the surface. When it is sufficiently done, the
undulations on the surface look thick, and small rings appear. The time
required for scalding cream depends on the size of the pan and the heat
of the fire; but the slower it is done, the better. The pan should be
placed in the dairy when the cream is sufficiently scalded, and skimmed
the following day. This cream is so much esteemed that it is sent to the
London markets in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious eaten
with fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter is made from this cream, and is
usually very firm.


DEVONSHIRE JUNKET.

1631. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of new milk allow 2 dessertspoonfuls
of brandy, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar, and 1-1/2 dessertspoonful of
prepared rennet; thick cream, pounded cinnamon, or grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Make the milk blood-warm; put it into a deep dish with the
brandy, sugar, and rennet; stir it altogether, and cover it over until
it is set. Then spread some thick or clotted cream over the top, grate
some nutmeg, and strew some sugar over, and the dish will be ready to
serve.

_Time_.--About 2 hours to set the milk. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO KEEP AND CHOOSE FRESH BUTTER.

1632. Fresh butter should be kept in a dark, cool place, and in as large
a mass as possible. Mould as much only as is required, as the more
surface is exposed, the more liability there will be to spoil; and the
outside very soon becomes rancid. Fresh butter should be kept covered
with white paper. For small larders, butter-coolers of red brick are now
very much used for keeping fresh butter in warm weather. These coolers
are made with a large bell-shaped cover, into the top of which a little
cold water should be poured, and in summer time very frequently changed;
and the butter must be kept covered. These coolers keep butter
remarkably firm in hot weather, and are extremely convenient for those
whose larder accommodation is limited.

[Illustration: BUTTER-DISH.]

In choosing fresh butter, remember it should smell deliciously, and be
of an equal colour all through: if it smells sour, it has not been
sufficiently washed from the buttermilk; and if veiny and open, it has
probably been worked with a staler or an inferior sort.


TO PRESERVE AND TO CHOOSE SALT BUTTER.

1633. In large families, where salt butter is purchased a tub at a time,
the first thing to be done is to turn the whole of the butter out, and,
with a clean knife, to scrape the outside; the tub should then be wiped
with a clean cloth, and sprinkled all round with salt, the butter
replaced, and the lid kept on to exclude the air. It is necessary to
take these precautions, as sometimes a want of proper cleanliness in the
dairymaid causes the outside of the butter to become rancid, and if the
scraping be neglected, the whole mass would soon become spoiled. To
choose salt butter, plunge a knife into it, and if, when drawn out, the
blade smells rancid or unpleasant, the butter is bad. The layers in tubs
will vary greatly, the butter being made at different times; so, to try
if the whole tub be good, the cask should be unhooped, and the butter
tried between the staves.

It is not necessary to state that butter is extracted from cream, or
from unskimmed milk, by the churn. Of course it partakes of the
qualities of the milk, and winter butter is said not to be so good as
spring butter.

A word of caution is necessary about _rancid_ butter. Nobody eats it on
bread, but it is sometimes used in cooking, in forms in which the
acidity can be more or less disguised. So much the worse; it is almost
poisonous, disguise it as you may. Never, under any exigency whatever,
be tempted into allowing butter with even a _soupçon_ of "turning" to
enter into the composition of any dish that appears on your table. And,
in general, the more you can do without the employment of butter that
has been subjected to the influence of heat, the better. The woman of
modern times is not a "leech;" but she might often keep the "leech" from
the door, if she would give herself the trouble to invent _innocent_
sauces.


BUTTER-MOULDS, for Moulding Fresh Butter.

[Illustration: DISH OF ROLLED BUTTER.]

1634. Butter-moulds, or wooden stamps for moulding fresh butter, are
much used, and are made in a variety of forms and shapes. In using them,
let them be kept scrupulously clean, and before the butter is pressed
in, the interior should be well wetted with cold water; the butter must
then be pressed in, the mould opened, and the perfect shape taken out.
The butter may be then dished, and garnished with a wreath of parsley,
if for a cheese course; if for breakfast, put it into an ornamental
butter-dish, with a little water at the bottom, should the weather be
very warm.


CURLED BUTTER.

1635. Tie a strong cloth by two of the corners to an iron hook in the
wall; make a knot with the other two ends, so that a stick might pass
through. Put the butter into the cloth; twist it tightly over a dish,
into which the butter will fall through the knot, so forming small and
pretty little strings. The butter may then be garnished with parsley, if
to serve with a cheese course; or it may be sent to table plain for
breakfast, in an ornamental dish. Squirted butter for garnishing hams,
salads, eggs, &c., is made by forming a piece of stiff paper in the
shape of a cornet, and squeezing the butter in fine strings from the
hole at the bottom. Scooped butter is made by dipping a teaspoon or
scooper in warm water, and then scooping the butter quickly and thin. In
warm weather, it would not be necessary to heat the spoon.

    BUTTER may be kept fresh for ten or twelve days by a very simple
    process. Knead it well in cold water till the buttermilk is
    extracted; then put it in a glazed jar, which invert in another,
    putting into the latter a sufficient quantity of water to
    exclude the air. Renew the water every day.

FAIRY BUTTER.

1636. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
orange-flower water, 2 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1/4 lb. of good
fresh butter.

_Mode_.--Beat the yolks of the eggs smoothly in a mortar, with the
orange-flower water and the sugar, until the whole is reduced to a fine
paste; add the butter, and force all through an old but clean cloth by
wringing the cloth and squeezing the butter very hard. The butter will
then drop on the plate in large and small pieces, according to the holes
in the cloth. Plain butter may be done in the same manner, and is very
quickly prepared, besides having a very good effect.

    BUTTER.--White-coloured butter is said not to be so good as the
    yellow; but the yellow colour is often artificially produced, by
    the introduction of colouring matter into the churn.

ANCHOVY BUTTER.

1637. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of butter allow 6 anchovies, 1 small
bunch of parsley.

_Mode_.--Wash, bone, and pound the anchovies well in a mortar; scald the
parsley, chop it, and rub through a sieve; then pound all the
ingredients together, mix well, and make the butter into pats
immediately. This makes a pretty dish, if fancifully moulded, for
breakfast or supper, and should be garnished with parsley.

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 dishes, with 4 pats each.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


CHEESE.

1638. In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is bought in
large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the
larger quantity spread with a thickly-buttered sheet of white paper, and
the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheeses moist that are in daily
use, when they come from table a damp cloth should be wrapped round
them, and the cheese put into a pan with a cover to it, in a cool but
not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them forward, put them
into a damp cellar; and, to check too large a production of mites,
spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese which
are too near the rind, or too dry to put on table, may be made into
Welsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with macaroni. Cheeses may be
preserved in a perfect state for years, by covering them with parchment
made pliable by soaking in water, or by rubbing them over with a coating
of melted fat. The cheeses selected should be free from cracks or
bruises of any kind.

    CHEESE.--It is well known that some persons like cheese in a
    state of decay, and even "alive." There is no accounting for
    tastes, and it maybe hard to show why mould, which is
    vegetation, should not be eaten as well as salad, or maggots as
    well as eels. But, generally speaking, decomposing bodies are
    not wholesome eating, and the line must be drawn somewhere.

STILTON CHEESE.

[Illustration: STILTON CHEESE.]

1639. Stilton cheese, or British Parmesan, as it is sometimes called, is
generally preferred to all other cheeses by those whose authority few
will dispute. Those made in May or June are usually served at Christmas;
or, to be in prime order, should be kept from 10 to 12 months, or even
longer. An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes produced
by inserting a small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at the
top. From 3 weeks to a month is sufficient time to ripen the cheese. An
additional flavour may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from the
top, and pouring therein port, sherry, Madeira, or old ale, and letting
the cheese absorb these for 2 or 3 weeks. But that cheese is the finest
which is ripened without any artificial aid, is the opinion of those who
are judges in these matters. In serving a Stilton cheese, the top of it
should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white paper,
with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes from table,
the lid should be replaced.


MODE OF SERVING CHEESE.

[Illustration: CHEESE-GLASS.]

1640. The usual mode of serving cheese at good tables is to cut a small
quantity of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a glass
cheese-dish, this dish being handed round. Should the cheese crumble
much, of course this method is rather wasteful, and it may then be put
on the table in the piece, and the host may cut from it. When served
thus, the cheese must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white
d'oyley or napkin, neatly folded. Cream cheese is often served in a
cheese course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan: the latter should he put
into a covered glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, pats or slices of
butter, and salad, cucumber, or water-cresses, should always form part
of a cheese course.

    SMOKING CHEESES.--The Romans smoked their cheeses, to give them
    a sharp taste. They possessed public places expressly for this
    use, and subject to police regulations which no one could evade.

    A celebrated gourmand remarked that a dinner without cheese is
    like a woman with one eye.

CHEESE SANDWICHES.

1641. INGREDIENTS.--Slices of brown bread-and-butter, thin slices of
cheese.

_Mode_.--Cut from a nice fat Cheshire, or any good rich cheese, some
slices about 1/2 inch thick, and place them between some slices of brown
bread-and-butter, like sandwiches. Place them on a plate in the oven,
and, when the bread is toasted, serve on a napkin very hot and very
quickly.

_Time_.--10 minutes in a brisk oven.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each sandwich.

_Sufficient_.--Allow a sandwich for each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    CHEESE.--One of the most important products of coagulated milk
    is cheese. Unfermented, or cream-cheese, when quite fresh, is
    good for subjects with whom milk does not disagree; but cheese,
    in its commonest shape, is only fit for sedentary people as an
    after-dinner stimulant, and in very small quantity. Bread and
    cheese, as a meal, is only fit for soldiers on march or
    labourers in the open air, who like it because it "holds the
    stomach a long time."

CAYENNE CHEESES.

1642. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of
grated cheese, 1/3 teaspoonful of cayenne, 1/3 teaspoonful of salt;
water.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter in the flour; add the grated cheese, cayenne.
and salt; and mix these ingredients well together. Moisten with
sufficient water to make the whole into a paste; roll out, and cut into
fingers about 4 inches in length. Bake them in a moderate oven a very
light colour, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE A FONDUE.

1643. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, the weight of 2 in Parmesan or good Cheshire
cheese, the weight of 2 in butter; pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former
in a basin, and grate the cheese, or cut it into _very thin_ flakes.
Parmesan or Cheshire cheese may be used, whichever is the most
convenient, although the former is considered more suitable for this
dish; or an equal quantity of each may be used. Break the butter into
small pieces, add it to the other ingredients, with sufficient pepper
and salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Well whisk
the whites of the eggs, stir them lightly in, and either bake the fondue
in a soufflé-dish or small round cake-tin. Fill the dish only half full,
as the fondue should rise very much. Pin a napkin round the tin or dish,
and serve very hot and very quickly. If allowed to stand after it is
withdrawn from the oven, the beauty and lightness of this preparation
will be entirely spoiled.

_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


BRILLAT SAVARIN'S FONDUE.

(_An excellent Recipe_.)

1644. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, cheese, butter, pepper and salt.

_Mode_.--Take the same number of eggs as there are guests; weigh the
eggs in the shell, allow a third of their weight in Gruyère cheese, and
a piece of butter one-sixth of the weight of the cheese. Break the eggs
into a basin, beat them well; add the cheese, which should be grated,
and the butter, which should be broken into small pieces. Stir these
ingredients together with a wooden spoon; put the mixture into a lined
saucepan, place it over the fire, and stir until the substance is thick
and soft. Put in a little salt, according to the age of the cheese, and
a good sprinkling of pepper, and serve the fondue on a very hot silver
or metal plate. Do not allow the fondue to remain on the fire after the
mixture is set, as, if it boils, it will be entirely spoiled. Brillat
Savarin recommends that some choice Burgundy should he handed round with
this dish. We have given this recipe exactly as he recommends it to be
made; but we have tried it with good Cheshire cheese, and found it
answer remarkably well.

_Time_.--About 4 minutes to set the mixture.

_Average cost_ for 4 persons, 10d.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 egg, with the other ingredients in proportion,
for one person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


MACARONI, as usually served with the CHEESE COURSE.

I.

1645. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 oz.
of Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of
milk, 2 pints of water, bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Put the milk and water into a saucepan with sufficient salt to
flavour it; place it on the fire, and, when it boils quickly, drop in
the macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender; drain the
macaroni, and put it into a deep dish. Have ready the grated cheese,
either Parmesan or Cheshire; sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and some
of the butter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the cheese for
the top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover the top layer of
cheese with some very fine bread crumbs. Warm, without oiling, the
remainder of the butter, and pour it gently over the bread crumbs. Place
the dish before a bright fire to brown the crumbs; turn it once or
twice, that it may be equally coloured, and serve very hot. The top of
the macaroni may be browned with a salamander, which is even better than
placing it before the fire, as the process is more expeditious; but it
should never be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil, and so
impart a very disagreeable flavour to the dish. In boiling the macaroni,
let it be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the
form entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, with a little
salt instead of using milk, but should then have a small piece of butter
mixed with it.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to brown it
before the fire.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Riband macaroni may be dressed in the same manner, but does not
require boiling so long a time.


II.

1646. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of pipe or riband macaroni, 1/2 pint of
milk, 1/2 pint of veal or beef gravy, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4
tablespoonfuls of cream, 3 oz. of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, 1
oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Wash the macaroni, and boil it in the gravy and milk until
quite tender, without being broken. Drain it, and put it into rather a
deep dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream and 2
tablespoonfuls of the liquor the macaroni was boiled in; make this
sufficiently hot to thicken, but do not allow it to boil; pour it over
the macaroni, over which sprinkle the grated cheese and the butter
broken into small pieces; brown with a salamander, or before the fire,
and serve.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to thicken
the eggs and cream, 5 minutes to brown.

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


III.

1647. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/2 pint of brown gravy
No. 436, 6 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese.

_Mode_.--Wash the macaroni, and boil it in salt and water until quite
tender; drain it, and put it into rather a deep dish. Have ready a pint
of good brown gravy, pour it hot over the macaroni, and send it to table
with grated Parmesan served on a separate dish. When the flavour is
liked, a little pounded mace may be added to the water in which the
macaroni is boiled; but this must always be sparingly added, as it will
impart a very strong flavour.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni.

_Average cost_, with the gravy and cheese, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


POUNDED CHEESE.

1648. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of cheese allow 3 oz. of fresh butter.

_Mode_.--To pound cheese is an economical way of using it, if it has
become dry; it is exceedingly good spread on bread, and is the best way
of eating it for those whose digestion is weak. Cut up the cheese into
small pieces, and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding butter in the
above proportion. Press it down into a jar, cover with clarified butter,
and it will keep for several days. The flavour may be very much
increased by adding mixed mustard (about a teaspoonful to every lb.), or
cayenne, or pounded mace. Curry-powder is also not unfrequently mixed
with it.


RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE.

1649. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of Cheshire cheese, 1/4 lb. of Parmesan
cheese, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, the crumb of a small roll;
pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste.

_Mode_.--Boil the crumb of the roll in milk for 5 minutes; strain, and
put it into a mortar; add the cheese, which should be finely scraped,
the butter, the yolks of the eggs, and seasoning, and pound these
ingredients well together. Whisk the whites of the eggs, mix them with
the paste, and put it into small pans or saucers, which should not be
more than half filled. Bake them from 10 to 12 minutes, and serve them
very hot and very quickly. This batter answers equally well for macaroni
after it is boiled tender.

_Time_--10 to 12 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


PASTRY RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE.

1650. INGREDIENTS.--Any pieces of very good light puff-paste Cheshire,
Parmesan, or Stilton cheese.

_Mode_.--The remains or odd pieces of paste left from large tarts, &c.
answer for making these little dishes. Gather up the pieces of paste,
roll it out evenly, and sprinkle it with grated cheese of a nice
flavour. Fold the paste in three, roll it out again, and sprinkle more
cheese over; fold the paste, roll it out, and with a paste-cutter shape
it in any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven
from 10 to 15 minutes, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve quickly. The
appearance of this dish may be very much improved by brushing the
ramakins over with yolk of egg before they are placed in the oven. Where
expense is not objected to, Parmesan is the best kind of cheese to use
for making this dish.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TOASTED CHEESE, or SCOTCH RARE-BIT.

1651. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of rich cheese, toast, mustard, and
pepper.

[Illustration: HOT-WATER CHEESE-DISH.]

_Mode_.--Cut some nice rich sound cheese into rather thin slices; melt
it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and, when melted,
add a small quantity of mixed mustard and a seasoning of pepper; stir
the cheese until it is completely dissolved, then brown it before the
fire, or with a salamander. Fill the bottom of the cheese-toaster with
hot water, and serve with dry or buttered toasts, whichever may be
preferred. Our engraving illustrates a cheese-toaster with hot-water
reservoir: the cheese is melted in the upper tin, which is placed in
another vessel of boiling water, so keeping the preparation beautifully
hot. A small quantity of porter, or port wine, is sometimes mixed with
the cheese; and, if it be not very rich, a few pieces of butter may be
mixed with it to great advantage. Sometimes the melted cheese is spread
on the toasts, and then laid in the cheese-dish at the top of the hot
water. Whichever way it is served, it is highly necessary that the
mixture be very hot, and very quickly sent to table, or it will be
worthless.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes to melt the cheese.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per slice.

_Sufficient_.--Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TOASTED CHEESE, or WELSH RARE-BIT.

1652. INGREDIENTS.--Slices of bread, butter, Cheshire or Gloucester
cheese, mustard, and pepper.

_Mode_.--Cut the bread into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; pare off
the crust, toast the bread slightly without hardening or burning it, and
spread it with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the bread,
from a good rich fat cheese; lay them on the toasted bread in a
cheese-toaster; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it be
equally melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and a
seasoning of pepper, and serve very hot, with very hot plates. To
facilitate the melting of the cheese, it may be cut into thin flakes or
toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is so
essential to send this dish hot to table, it is a good plan to melt the
cheese in small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans to
table, allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast
should always accompany them, with mustard, pepper, and salt.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes to melt the cheese.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each slice.

_Sufficient_.--Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Should the cheese be dry, a little butter mixed with it will be
an improvement.

    "COW CHEESE."--It was only fifty years after Aristotle--the
    fourth century before Christ--that butter began to be noticed as
    an aliment. The Greeks, in imitation of the Parthians and
    Scythians, who used to send it to them, had it served upon their
    tables, and called it at first "oil of milk," and later,
    _bouturos_, "cow cheese."

SCOTCH WOODCOCK.

1653. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of hot buttered toast; allow 1 anchovy
to each slice. For the sauce,--1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the
former, stir to them the cream, and bring the sauce to the
boiling-point, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Have
ready some hot buttered toast, spread with anchovies pounded to a paste;
pour a little of the hot sauce on the top, and serve very hot and very
quickly.

_Time_.--5 minutes to make the sauce hot.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO CHOOSE EGGS.

1654. In choosing eggs, apply the tongue to the large end of the egg,
and, if it feels warm, it is new, and may be relied on as a fresh egg.
Another mode of ascertaining their freshness is to hold them before a
lighted candle, or to the light, and if the egg looks clear, it will be
tolerably good; if thick, it is stale; and if there is a black spot
attached to the shell, it is worthless. No egg should be used for
culinary purposes with the slightest taint in it, as it will render
perfectly useless those with which it has been mixed. Eggs that are
purchased, and that cannot be relied on, should always be broken in a
cup, and then put into a basin: by this means stale or bad eggs may be
easily rejected, without wasting the others.

    EGGS contain, for their volume, a greater quantity of nutriment
    than any other article of food. But it does not follow that they
    are always good for weak stomachs; quite the contrary; for it is
    often a great object to give the stomach a large surface to work
    upon, a considerable volume of _ingesta_, over which the
    nutritive matter is diffused, and so exposed to the action of
    the gastric juice at many points. There are many persons who
    cannot digest eggs, however cooked. It is said, however, that
    their digestibility decreases in proportion to the degree in
    which they are hardened by boiling.

TO KEEP EGGS FRESH FOR SEVERAL WEEKS.

1655. Have ready a large saucepan, capable of holding 3 or 4 quarts,
full of boiling water. Put the eggs into a cabbage-net, say 20 at a
time, and hold them in the water (which must be kept boiling) _for_ 20
_seconds_. Proceed in this manner till you have done as many eggs as you
wish to preserve; then pack them away in sawdust. We have tried this
method of preserving eggs, and can vouch for its excellence: they will
be found, at the end of 2 or 3 months, quite good enough for culinary
purposes; and although the white may be a little tougher than that of a
new-laid egg, the yolk will be nearly the same. Many persons keep eggs
for a long time by smearing the shells with butter or sweet oil: they
should then be packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, and the eggs not
allowed to touch each other. Eggs for storing should be collected in
fine weather, and should not be more than 24 hours old when they are
packed away, or their flavour, when used, cannot be relied on. Another
simple way of preserving eggs is to immerse them in lime-water soon
after they have been laid, and then to put the vessel containing the
lime-water in a cellar or cool outhouse.

_Seasonable_.--The best time for preserving eggs is from July to
September.

    EGGS.--The quality of eggs is said to be very much affected by
    the food of the fowls who lay them. Herbs and grain together
    make a better food than grain only. When the hens eat too many
    insects, the eggs have a disagreeable flavour.

TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, SALADS, &c.

[Illustration: EGG-STAND FOR THE BREAKFAST-TABLE.]

1656. Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon after
they are laid; but rather a longer time should be allowed for boiling a
new-laid egg than for one that is three or four days old. Have ready a
saucepan of boiling water; put the eggs into it gently with a spoon,
letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before it is
withdrawn, that the egg may not fall, and consequently crack. For those
who like eggs lightly boiled, 3 minutes will be found sufficient; 3-3/4
to 4 minutes will be ample time to set the white nicely; and, if liked
hard, 6 to 7 minutes will not be found too long. Should the eggs be
unusually large, as those of black Spanish fowls sometimes are, allow an
extra 1/2 minute for them. Eggs for salads should be boiled from 10
minutes to 1/4 hour, and should be placed in a basin of cold water for a
few minutes; they should then be rolled on the table with the hand, and
the shell will peel off easily.

_Time_.--To boil eggs lightly, for invalids or children, 3 minutes; to
boil eggs to suit the generality of tastes, 3-3/4 to 4 minutes; to boil
eggs hard, 6 to 7 minutes; for salads, 10 to 15 minutes.

_Note_.--Silver or plated egg-dishes, like that shown in our engraving,
are now very much used. The price of the one illustrated is £2. 2s., and
may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand.

    EGGS.--When fresh eggs are dropped into a vessel _full_ of
    boiling water, they crack, because the eggs being well filled,
    the shells give way to the efforts of the interior fluids,
    dilated by heat. If the volume of hot water be small, the shells
    do not crack, because its temperature is reduced by the eggs
    before the interior dilation can take place. Stale eggs, again,
    do not crack, because the air inside is easily compressed.

BUTTERED EGGS.

1657. INGREDIENTS.--4 new-laid eggs, 2 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Procure the eggs new-laid if possible; break them into a basin,
and beat them well; put the butter into another basin, which place in
boiling water, and stir till the butter is melted. Pour that and the
eggs into a lined saucepan; hold it over a gentle fire, and, as the
mixture begins to warm, pour it two or three times into the basin, and
back again, that the two ingredients may be well incorporated. Keep
stirring the eggs and butter one way until they are hot, _without
boiling_, and serve on hot buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed to
boil, it will curdle, and so be entirely spoiled.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes to make the eggs hot. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_.--Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time.


DUCKS' EGGS.

1658. Ducks' eggs are usually so strongly flavoured that, plainly
boiled, they are not good for eating; they answer, however, very well
for various culinary preparations where eggs are required; such as
custards, &c. &c. Being so large and highly-flavoured, 1 duck's egg will
go as far as 2 small hen's eggs; besides making whatever they are mixed
with exceedingly rich. They also are admirable when used in puddings.

    PRIMITIVE METHOD OF COOKING EGGS.--The shepherds of Egypt had a
    singular manner of cooking eggs without the aid of fire. They
    placed them in a sling, which they turned so rapidly that the
    friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for
    use.

FRIED EGGS.

1659. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of lard, butter or clarified
dripping.

[Illustration: FRIED EGGS ON BACON.]

_Mode_.--Place a delicately-clean frying-pan over a gentle fire; put in
the fat, and allow it to come to the boiling-point. Break the eggs into
cups, slip them into the boiling fat, and let them remain until the
whites are delicately set; and, whilst they are frying, ladle a little
of the fat over them. Take them up with a slice, drain them for a minute
from their greasy moisture, trim them neatly, and serve on slices of
fried bacon or ham; or the eggs may be placed in the middle of the dish,
with the bacon put round as a garnish.

_Time_.--2 to 3 minutes. Average cost, 1d. each; 2d. when scarce.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    VENERATION FOR EGGS.--Many of the most learned philosophers held
    eggs in a kind of respect, approaching to veneration, because
    they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four elements.
    The shell, they said, represented the earth; the white, water;
    the yolk, fire; and air was found under the shell at one end of
    the egg.

EGGS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.

1660. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
1/2 pint of milk, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced
parsley, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 6 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the flour and half the butter into a stewpan; stir them
over the fire until the mixture thickens; pour in the milk, which should
be boiling; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the whole for
5 minutes. Put the remainder of the butter into the sauce, and add the
minced parsley; then boil the eggs hard, strip off the shells, cut the
eggs into quarters, and put them on a dish. Bring the sauce to the
boiling-point, add the lemon-juice, pour over the eggs, and serve.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the sauce; the eggs, 10 to 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


OEUFS AU PLAT, or AU MIROIR, served on the Dish in which they are
Cooked.

1661. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Butter a dish rather thickly with good fresh butter; melt it,
break the eggs into it the same as for poaching, sprinkle them with
white pepper and fine salt, and put the remainder of the butter, cut
into very small pieces, on the top of them. Put the dish on a hot plate,
or in the oven, or before the fire, and let it remain until the whites
become set, but not hard, when serve immediately, placing the dish they
were cooked in on another. To hasten the cooking of the eggs, a
salamander may be held over them for a minute; but great care must be
taken that they are not too much done. This is an exceedingly nice dish,
and one very easily prepared for breakfast.

_Time_.--3 minutes. _Average cost_, 5d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


PLOVERS' EGGS.

1662. Plovers' eggs are usually served boiled hard, and sent to table in
a napkin, either hot or cold. They may also be shelled, and served the
same as eggs à la Tripe, with a good Béchamel sauce, or brown gravy,
poured over them. They are also used for decorating salads, the
beautiful colour of the white being generally so much admired.


POACHED EGGS.

[Illustration: EGGS POACHED ON TOAST.]

[Illustration: TIN EGG-POACHER.]

1663. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, water. To every pint of water allow 1
tablespoonful of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Eggs for poaching should be perfectly fresh, but not quite
new-laid; those that are about 36 hours old are the best for the
purpose. If quite new-laid, the white is so milky it is almost
impossible to set it; and, on the other hand, if the egg be at all
stale, it is equally difficult to poach it nicely. Strain some boiling
water into a deep clean frying-pan; break the egg into a cup without
damaging the yolk, and, when the water boils, remove the pan to the side
of the fire, and gently slip the egg into it. Place the pan over a
gentle fire, and keep the water simmering until the white looks nicely
set, when the egg is ready. Take it up gently with a slice, cut away the
ragged edges of the white, and serve either on toasted bread or on
slices of ham or bacon, or on spinach, &c. A poached egg should not be
overdone, as its appearance and taste will be quite spoiled if the yolk
be allowed to harden. When the egg is slipped into the water, the white
should be gathered together, to keep it a little in form, or the cup
should be turned over it for 1 minute. To poach an egg to perfection is
rather a difficult operation; so, for inexperienced cooks, a tin
egg-poacher may be purchased, which greatly facilitates this manner of
dressing ecgs. Our illustration clearly shows what it is: it consists of
a tin plate with a handle, with a space for three perforated cups. An
egg should be broken into each cup, and the machine then placed in a
stewpan of boiling water, which has been previously strained. When the
whites of the eggs appear set, they are done, and should then be
carefully slipped on to the toast or spinach, or with whatever they are
served. In poaching eggs in a frying-pan, never do more than four at a
time; and, when a little vinegar is liked mixed with the water in which
the eggs are done, use the above proportion.

_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3-1/2 minutes, according to the size of the egg.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 eggs to each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but less plentiful in winter.


POACHED EGGS, WITH CREAM.

1664. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 4
teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 4 fresh eggs, 1/2 gill of cream, salt, pepper,
and pounded sugar to taste, 1 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Put the water, vinegar, and salt into a frying-pan, and break
each egg into a separate cup; bring the water, &c. to boil, and slip the
eggs gently into it without breaking the yolks. Simmer them from 3 to 4
minutes, but not longer, and, with a slice, lift them out on to a hot
dish, and trim the edges. Empty the pan of its contents, put in the
cream, add a seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded sugar;
bring the whole to the boiling-point; then add the butter, broken into
small pieces; toss the pan round and round till the butter is melted;
pour it over the eggs, and serve. To insure the eggs not being spoiled
whilst the cream, &c., is preparing, it is a good plan to warm the cream
with the butter, &c., before the eggs are poached, so that it may be
poured over them immediately after they are dished.

_Time_.--3 to 4 minutes to poach the eggs, 5 minutes to warm the cream.

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

1665. COMPARATIVE SIZES OF EGGS.

[Illustration: 1 SWAN'S EGG. 2 TURKEY'S EGG. 3 DUCK'S EGG. 4 PLOVER'S
EGG.]

SCOTCH EGGS.

1666. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of forcemeat No. 417, hot
lard, 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.

_Mode_.--Boil the eggs for 10 minutes; strip them from the shells, and
cover them with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; or substitute pounded
anchovies for the ham. Fry the eggs a nice brown in boiling lard, drain
them before the fire from their greasy moisture, dish them, and pour
round from 1/4 to 1/2 pint of good brown gravy. To enhance the
appearance of the eggs, they may be rolled in beaten egg and sprinkled
with bread crumbs; but this is scarcely necessary if they are carefully
fried. The flavour of the ham or anchovy in the forcemeat must
preponderate, as it should be very relishing.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the eggs, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


EGGS A LA TRIPE.

1667. INGREDIENTS.--8 eggs, 3/4 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 368,
dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley.

_Mode_.--Boil the eggs hard; put them into cold water, peel them, take
out the yolks whole, and shred the whites. Make 3/4 pint of Béchamel
sauce by recipe No. 368; add the parsley, and, when the sauce is quite
hot, put the yolks of the eggs into the middle of the dish, and the
shred whites round them; pour over the sauce, and garnish with leaves of
puff-paste or fried croûtons. There is no necessity for putting the eggs
into the saucepan with the Béchamel; the sauce, being quite hot, will
warm the eggs sufficiently.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the eggs.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXXIV.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.


BREAD AND BREAD-MAKING.

1668. AMONG the numerous vegetable products yielding articles of food
for man, the Cereals hold the first place. By means of skilful
cultivation, mankind have transformed the original forms of these
growths, poor and ill-flavoured as they perhaps were, into various
fruitful and agreeable species, which yield an abundant and pleasant
supply. Classified according to their respective richness in alimentary
elements, the Cereals stand thus:--Wheat, and its varieties, Rye,
Barley, Oats, Rice, Indian Corn. Everybody knows it is wheat flour which
yields the best bread. Rye-bread is viscous, hard, less easily soluble
by the gastric juice, and not so rich in nutritive power. Flour produced
from barley, Indian corn, or rice, is not so readily made into bread;
and the article, when made, is heavy and indigestible.

1669. On examining a grain of corn from any of the numerous cereals
[Footnote: _Cereal,_ a corn-producing plant; from Ceres, the goddess of
agriculture.] used in the preparation of flour, such as wheat, maize,
rye, barley, &c., it will be found to consist of two parts,--the husk,
or exterior covering, which is generally of a dark colour, and the
inner, or albuminous part, which is more or less white. In grinding,
these two portions are separated, and the husk being blown away in the
process of winnowing, the flour remains in the form of a light brown
powder, consisting principally of starch and gluten. In order to render
it white, it undergoes a process called "bolting." It is passed through
a series of fine sieves, which separate the coarser parts, leaving
behind fine white flour,--the "fine firsts" of the corn-dealer. The
process of bolting, as just described, tends to deprive flour of its
gluten, the coarser and darker portion containing much of that
substance; while the lighter part is peculiarly rich in starch. Bran
contains a large proportion of gluten; hence it will be seen why brown
broad is so much more nutritious than white; in fact, we may lay it down
as a general rule, that the whiter the bread the less nourishment it
contains. Majendie proved this by feeding a dog for forty days with
white wheaten bread, at the end of which time he died; while another
dog, fed on brown bread made with flour mixed with bran, lived without
any disturbance of his health. The "bolting" process, then, is rather
injurious than beneficial in its result; and is one of the numerous
instances where fashion has chosen a wrong standard to go by. In ancient
times, down to the Emperors, no bolted flour was known. In many parts of
Germany the entire meal is used; and in no part of the world are the
digestive organs of the people in a better condition. In years of
famine, when corn is scarce, the use of bolted flour is most culpable,
for from 18 to 20 per cent, is lost in bran. Brown bread has, of late
years, become very popular; and many physicians have recommended it to
invalids with weak digestions with great success. This rage for white
bread has introduced adulterations of a very serious character,
affecting the health of the whole community. Potatoes are added for this
purpose; but this is a comparatively harmless cheat, only reducing the
nutritive property of the bread; but bone-dust and alum are also put in,
which are far from harmless.

1670. Bread-making is a very ancient art indeed. The Assyrians,
Egyptians, and Greeks, used to make bread, in which oil, with aniseed
and other spices, was an element; but this was unleavened. Every family
used to prepare the bread for its own consumption, the _trade_ of baking
not having yet taken shape. It is said, that somewhere about the
beginning of the thirtieth Olympiad, the slave of an archon, at Athens,
made leavened bread by accident. He had left some wheaten dough in an
earthen pan, and forgotten it; some days afterwards, he lighted upon it
again, and found it turning sour. His first thought was to throw it
away; but, his master coming up, he mixed this now acescent dough with
some fresh dough, which he was working at. The bread thus produced, by
the introduction of dough in which alcoholic fermentation had begun, was
found delicious by the archon and his friends; and the slave, being
summoned and catechised, told the secret. It spread all over Athens; and
everybody wanting leavened bread at once, certain persons set up as
bread-makers, or bakers. In a short time bread-baking became quite an
art, and "Athenian bread" was quoted all over Greece as the best bread,
just as the honey of Hyamettus was celebrated as the best honey.

1671. In our own times, and among civilized peoples, bread has become an
article of food of the first necessity; and properly so, for it
constitutes of itself a complete life-sustainer, the gluten, starch, and
sugar, which it contains, representing azotized and hydro-carbonated
nutrients, and combining the sustaining powers of the animal and
vegetable kingdoms in one product.

1672. WHEATEN BREAD.--The finest, wholesomest, and most savoury bread is
made from wheaten flour. There are, of wheat, three leading qualities,--
the soft, the medium, and the hard wheat; the last of which yields a
kind of bread that is not so white as that made from soft wheat, but is
richer in gluten, and, consequently, more nutritive.

1673. RYE BREAD.--This comes next to wheaten bread: it is not so rich in
gluten, but is said to keep fresh longer, and to have some laxative
qualities.

1674. BARLEY BREAD, INDIAN-CORN BREAD, &c.--Bread made from barley,
maize, oats, rice, potatoes, &c. "rises" badly, because the grains in
question contain but little gluten, which makes the bread heavy, close
in texture, and difficult of digestion; in fact, corn-flour has to be
added before panification can take place. In countries where wheat is
scarce and maize abundant, the people make the latter a chief article of
sustenance, when prepared in different forms.


BREAD-MAKING.

1675. PANIFICATION, or bread-making, consists of the following
processes, in the case of Wheaten Flour. Fifty or sixty per cent. of
water is added to the flour, with the addition of some leavening matter,
and, preferably, of yeast from malt and hops. All kinds of leavening
matter have, however, been, and are still used in different parts of the
world: in the East Indies, "toddy," which is a liquor that flows from
the wounded cocoa-nut tree; and, in the West Indies, "dunder," or the
refuse of the distillation of rum. The dough then undergoes the
well-known process called _kneading_. The yeast produces fermentation, a
process which may be thus described:--The dough reacting upon the
leavening matter introduced, the starch of the flour is transformed into
saccharine matter, the saccharine matter being afterwards changed into
alcohol and carbonic acid. The dough must be well "bound," and yet allow
the escape of the little bubbles of carbonic acid which accompany the
fermentation, and which, in their passage, cause the numerous little
holes which are seen in light bread.

1676. The yeast must be good and fresh, if the bread is to be digestible
and nice. Stale yeast produces, instead of vinous fermentation, an
acetous fermentation, which flavours the bread and makes it
disagreeable. A poor thin yeast produces an imperfect fermentation, the
result being a heavy unwholesome loaf.

1677. When the dough is well kneaded, it is left to stand for some time,
and then, as soon as it begins to swell, it is divided into loaves;
after which it is again left to stand, when it once more swells up, and
manifests, for the last time, the symptoms of fermentation. It is then
put into the oven, where the water contained in the dough is partly
evaporated, and the loaves swell up again, while a yellow crust begins
to form upon the surface. When the bread is sufficiently baked, the
bottom crust is hard and resonant if struck with the finger, while the
crumb is elastic, and rises again after being pressed down with the
finger. The bread is, in all probability, baked sufficiently if, on
opening the door of the oven, you are met by a cloud of steam which
quickly passes away.

1678. One word as to the unwholesomeness of new bread and hot rolls.
When bread is taken out of the oven, it is full of moisture; the starch
is held together in masses, and the bread, instead of being crusted so
as to expose each grain of starch to the saliva, actually prevents their
digestion by being formed by the teeth into leathery poreless masses,
which lie on the stomach like so many bullets. Bread should always be at
least a day old before it is eaten; and, if properly made, and kept in a
_cool dry_ place, ought to be perfectly soft and palatable at the end of
three or four days. Hot rolls, swimming in melted butter, and new bread,
ought to be carefully shunned by everybody who has the slightest respect
for that much-injured individual--the Stomach.

1679. AERATED BREAD.--It is not unknown to some of our readers that Dr.
Dauglish, of Malvern, has recently patented a process for making bread
"light" without the use of leaven. The ordinary process of bread-making
by fermentation is tedious, and much labour of human hands is requisite
in the kneading, in order that the dough may be thoroughly
interpenetrated with the leaven. The new process impregnates the bread,
by the application of machinery, with carbonic acid gas, or fixed air.
Different opinions are expressed about the bread; but it is curious to
note, that, as corn is now reaped by machinery, and dough is baked by
machinery, the whole process of bread-making is probably in course of
undergoing changes which will emancipate both the housewife and the
professional baker from a large amount of labour.

1680. In the production of Aërated Bread, wheaten flour, water, salt,
and carbonic acid gas (generated by proper machinery), are the only
materials employed. We need not inform our readers that carbonic acid
gas is the source of the effervescence, whether in common water coming
from a depth, or in lemonade, or any aërated drink. Its action, in the
new bread, takes the place of fermentation in the old.

1681. In the patent process, the dough is mixed in a great iron ball,
inside which is a system of paddles, perpetually turning, and doing the
kneading part of the business. Into this globe the flour is dropped till
it is full, and then the common atmospheric air is pumped out, and the
pure gas turned on. The gas is followed by the water, which has been
aërated for the purpose, and then begins the churning or kneading part
of the business.

1682. Of course, it is not long before we have the dough, and very
"light" and nice it looks. This is caught in tins, and passed on to the
floor of the oven, which is an endless floor, moving slowly through the
fire. Done to a turn, the loaves emerge at the other end of the
apartment,--and the Aërated Bread is made.

1683. It may be added, that it is a good plan to change one's baker from
time to time, and so secure a change in the quality of the bread that is
eaten.

1684. MIXED BREADS.--Rye bread is hard of digestion, and requires longer
and slower baking than wheaten bread. It is better when made with leaven
of wheaten flour rather than yeast, and turns out lighter. It should not
be eaten till two days old. It will keep a long time.

1685. A good bread may be made by mixing rye-flour, wheat-flour, and
rice-paste in equal proportions; also by mixing rye, wheat, and barley.
In Norway, it is said that they only bake their barley broad once a
year, such is its "keeping" quality.

1686. Indian-corn flour mixed with wheat-flour (half with half) makes a
nice bread; but it is not considered very digestible, though it keeps
well.

1687. Rice cannot be made into bread, nor can potatoes; but one-third
potato flour to three-fourths wheaten flour makes a tolerably good loaf.

1688. A very good bread, better than the ordinary sort, and of a
delicious flavour, is said to be produced by adopting the following
recipe:--Take ten parts of wheat-flour, five parts of potato-flour, one
part of rice-paste; knead together, add the yeast, and bake as usual.
This is, of course, cheaper than wheaten bread.

1689. Flour, when freshly ground, is too glutinous to make good bread,
and should therefore not be used immediately, but should be kept dry for
a few weeks, and stirred occasionally, until it becomes dry, and
crumbles easily between the fingers.

1690. Flour should be perfectly dry before being used for bread or
cakes; if at all damp, the preparation is sure to be heavy. Before
mixing it with the other ingredients, it is a good plan to place it for
an hour or two before the fire, until it feels warm and dry.

1691. Yeast from home-brewed beer is generally preferred to any other:
it is very bitter, and, on that account, should be well washed, and put
away until the thick mass settles. If it still continues bitter, the
process should be repeated; and, before being used, all the water
floating at the top must be poured off. German yeast is now very much
used, and should be moistened, and thoroughly mixed with the milk or
water with which the bread is to be made.

1692. The following observations are extracted from a valuable work on
Bread-making, [Footnote: "The English Bread-Book." By Eliza Acton.
London: Longman.] and will be found very useful to our readers:--

1693. The first thing required for making wholesome bread is the utmost
cleanliness; the next is the soundness and sweetness of all the
ingredients used for it; and, in addition to these, there must be
attention and care through the whole process.

1694. An almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made,
and to allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most
common causes of failure are using yeast which is no longer sweet, or
which has been frozen, or has had hot liquid poured over it.

1695. Too small a proportion of yeast, or insufficient time allowed for
the dough to rise, will cause the bread to be heavy.

1696. Heavy bread will also most likely be the result of making the
dough very hard, and letting it become quite, cold, particularly in
winter.

1697. If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself,
that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it has
reached the proper point for either, sour bread will probably be the
consequence in warm weather, and bad bread in any. The goodness will
also be endangered by placing it so near a fire as to make any part of
it hot, instead of maintaining the gentle and equal degree of heat
required for its due fermentation.

1698. MILK OR BUTTER.--Milk which is not perfectly sweet will not only
injure the flavour of the bread, but, in sultry weather, will often
cause it to be quite uneatable; yet either of them, if fresh and good,
will materially improve its quality.

1699. To keep bread sweet and fresh, as soon as it is cold it should be
put into a clean earthen pan, with a cover to it: this pan should be
placed at a little distance from the ground, to allow a current of air
to pass underneath. Some persons prefer keeping bread on clean wooden
shelves, without being covered, that the crust may not soften. Stale
bread may be freshened by warming it through in a gentle oven. Stale
pastry, cakes, &c., may also be improved by this method.

1700. The utensils required for making bread, on a moderate scale, are a
kneading-trough or pan, sufficiently large that the dough may be kneaded
freely without throwing the flour over the edges, and also to allow for
its rising; a hair sieve for straining yeast, and one or two strong
spoons.

1701. Yeast must always be good of its kind, and in a fitting state to
produce ready and proper fermentation. Yeast of strong beer or ale
produces more effect than that of milder kinds; and the fresher the
yeast, the smaller the quantity will be required to raise the dough.

1702. As a general rule, the oven for baking bread should be rather
quick, and the heat so regulated as to penetrate the dough without
hardening the outside. The oven door should not be opened after the
bread is put in until the dough is set, or has become firm, as the cool
air admitted will have an unfavourable effect on it.

1703. Brick ovens are generally considered the best adapted for baking
bread: these should be heated with wood faggots, and then swept and
mopped out, to cleanse them for the reception of the bread. Iron ovens
are more difficult to manage, being apt to burn the surface of the bread
before the middle is baked. To remedy this, a few clean bricks should be
set at the bottom of the oven, close together, to receive the tins of
bread. In many modern stoves the ovens are so much improved that they
bake admirably; and they can always be brought to the required
temperature, when it is higher than is needed, by leaving the door open
for a time.


A FEW HINTS respecting the Making and Baking of CAKES.

1704. _Eggs_ should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yolks
separated, and they should always be strained. Breaking the eggs thus,
the bad ones may be easily rejected without spoiling the others, and so
cause no waste. As eggs are used instead of yeast, they should be very
thoroughly whisked; they are generally sufficiently beaten when thick
enough to carry the drop that falls from the whisk.

1705. _Loaf Sugar_ should be well pounded, and then sifted through a
fine sieve.

1706. _Currants_ should be nicely washed, picked, dried in a cloth, and
then carefully examined, that no pieces of grit or stone may be left
amongst them. They should then be laid on a dish before the fire, to
become thoroughly dry; as, if added damp to the other ingredients, cakes
will be liable to be heavy.

1707. _Good Butter_ should always be used in the manufacture of cakes;
and if beaten to a cream, it saves much time and labour to warm, but not
melt, it before beating.

1708. Less butter and eggs are required for cakes when yeast is mixed
with the other ingredients.

1709. The heat of the oven is of great importance, especially for large
cakes. If the heat be not tolerably fierce, the batter will not rise. If
the oven is too quick, and there is any danger of the cake burning or
catching, put a sheet of clean paper over the top. Newspaper, or paper
that has been printed on, should never be used for this purpose.

1710. To know when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a clean knife
into the middle of it; draw it quickly out, and if it looks in the least
sticky, put the cake back, and close the oven door until the cake is
done.

1711. Cakes should be kept in closed tin canisters or jars, and in a dry
place. Those made with yeast do not keep so long as those made without
it.


BISCUITS.

1712. Since the establishment of the large modern biscuit manufactories,
biscuits have been produced both cheap and wholesome, in, comparatively
speaking, endless variety. Their actual component parts are, perhaps,
known only to the various makers; but there are several kinds of
biscuits which have long been in use, that may here be advantageously
described.

1713. Biscuits belong to the class of unfermented bread, and are,
perhaps, the most wholesome of that class. In cases where fermented
bread does not agree with the human stomach, they may be recommended: in
many instances they are considered lighter, and less liable to create
acidity and flatulence. The name is derived from the French _bis cuit_,
"twice-baked," because, originally, that was the mode of entirely
depriving them of all moisture, to insure their keeping; but, although
that process is no longer employed, the name is retained. The use of
this kind of bread on land is pretty general, and some varieties are
luxuries; but, at sea, biscuits are articles of the first necessity.

1714. SEA, or SHIP BISCUITS, are made of wheat-flour from which only the
coarsest bran has been separated. The dough is made up as stiff as it
can be worked, and is then formed into shapes, and baked in an oven;
after which, the biscuits are exposed in lofts over the oven until
perfectly dry, to prevent them from becoming mouldy when stored.

1715. CAPTAINS' BISCUITS are made in a similar manner, only of fine
flour.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXXV.


TO MAKE YEAST FOR BREAD.

1716. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of hops, 3 quarts of water, 1 lb. of
bruised malt, 1/2 pint of yeast.

_Mode_.--Boil the hops in the water for 20 minutes; let it stand for
about 5 minutes, then add it to 1 lb. of bruised malt prepared as for
brewing. Let the mixture stand covered till about lukewarm; then put in
not quite 1/2 pint of yeast; keep it warm, and let it work 3 or 4 hours;
then put it into small 1/2-pint bottles (ginger-beer bottles are the
best for the purpose), cork them well, and tie them down. The yeast is
now ready for use; it will keep good for a few weeks, and 1 bottle will
be found sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour. When required for use, boil 3
lbs. of potatoes without salt, mash them in the same water in which they
were boiled, and rub them through a colander. Stir in about 1/2 lb. of
flour; then put in the yeast, pour it in the middle of the flour, and
let it stand warm on the hearth all night, and in the morning let it be
quite warm when it is kneaded. The bottles of yeast require very careful
opening, as it is generally exceedingly ripe.

_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the hops and water, the yeast to work 3 or 4
hours.

_Sufficient._--1/2 pint sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour.


KIRKLEATHAM YEAST.

1717. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of hops, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 lb. of flour,
1/2 pint of yeast.

_Mode_.--Boil the hops and water for 20 minutes; strain, and mix with
the liquid 1/2 lb. of flour and not quite 1/2 pint of yeast. Bottle it
up, and tie the corks down. When wanted for use, boil potatoes according
to the quantity of bread to be made (about 3 lbs. are sufficient for
about a peck of flour); mash them, add to them 1/2 lb. of flour, and mix
about 1/2 pint of the yeast with them; let this mixture stand all day,
and lay the bread to rise the night before it is wanted.

_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the hops and water.

_Sufficient_.--1/2 pint of this yeast sufficient for a peck of flour, or
rather more.


TO MAKE GOOD HOME-MADE BREAD.

(_Miss Acton's Recipe_.)

1718. INGREDIENTS.--1 quartern of flour, 1 large tablespoonful of solid
brewer's yeast, or nearly 1 oz. of fresh German yeast, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2
pint of warm milk-and-water.

[Illustration: COTTAGE LOAF.]

[Illustration: TIN BREAD.]

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a large earthenware bowl or deep pan; then,
with a strong metal or wooden spoon, hollow out the middle; but do not
clear it entirely away from the bottom of the pan, as, in that case, the
sponge (or leaven, as it was formerly termed) would stick to it, which
it ought not to do. Next take either a large tablespoonful of brewer's
yeast which has been rendered solid by mixing it with plenty of cold
water, and letting it afterwards stand to settle for a day and night; or
nearly an ounce of German yeast; put it into a large basin, and proceed
to mix it, so that it shall be as smooth as cream, with 3/4 pint of warm
milk-and-water, or with water only; though even a very little milk will
much improve the bread. Pour the yeast into the hole made in the flour,
and stir into it as much of that which lies round it as will make a
thick batter, in which there must be no lumps. Strew plenty of flour on
the top; throw a thick clean cloth over, and set it where the air is
warm; but do not place it upon the kitchen fender, for it will become
too much heated there. Look at it from time to time: when it has been
laid for nearly an hour, and when the yeast has risen and broken through
the flour, so that bubbles appear in it, you will know that it is ready
to be made up into dough. Then place the pan on a strong chair, or
dresser, or table, of convenient height; pour into the sponge the
remainder of the warm milk-and-water; stir into it as much of the flour
as you can with the spoon; then wipe it out clean with your fingers, and
lay it aside. Next take plenty of the remaining flour, throw it on the
top of the leaven, and begin, with the knuckles of both hands, to knead
it well. When the flour is nearly all kneaded in, begin to draw the
edges of the dough towards the middle, in order to mix the whole
thoroughly; and when it is free from flour and lumps and crumbs, and
does not stick to the hands when touched, it will be done, and may again
be covered with the cloth, and left to rise a second time. In 3/4 hour
look at it, and should it have swollen very much, and begin to crack, it
will be light enough to bake. Turn it then on to a paste-board or very
clean dresser, and with a large sharp knife divide it in two; make it up
quickly into loaves, and dispatch it to the oven: make one or two
incisions across the tops of the loaves, as they will rise more easily
if this be done. If baked in tins or pans, rub them with a tiny piece of
butter laid on a piece of clean paper, to prevent the dough from
sticking to them. All bread should be turned upside down, or on its
side, as soon as it is drawn from the oven: if this be neglected, the
under part of the loaves will become wet and blistered from the steam,
which cannot then escape from them. _To make the dough without setting a
sponge_, merely mix the yeast with the greater part of the warm
milk-and-water, and wet up the whole of the flour at once after a little
salt has been stirred in, proceeding exactly, in every other respect, as
in the directions just given. As the dough will _soften_ in the rising,
it should be made quite firm at first, or it will be too lithe by the
time it is ready for the oven.

[Illustration: ITALIAN MILLET.]

_Time_.--To be left to rise an hour the first time, 3/4 hour the second
time; to be baked from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, or baked in one loaf from 1-1/2
to 2 hours.

    ITALIAN MILLET, or Great Indian Millet, is cultivated in Egypt
    and Nubia, where it is called _dhourra_, and is used as human
    food, as well as for the fermentation of beer. It will grow on
    poor soils, and is extremely productive. It has been introduced
    into Italy, where they make a coarse bread from it; and it is
    also employed in pastry and puddings: they also use it for
    feeding horses and domestic fowls. It is the largest variety,
    growing to the height of six feet; but it requires a warm
    climate, and will not ripen in this country. A yellow variety,
    called Golden Millet, is sold in the grocers' shops, for making
    puddings, and is very delicate and wholesome.

TO MAKE A PECK OF GOOD BREAD.

1719. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of potatoes, 6 pints of cold water, 1/2 pint
of good yeast, a peck of flour, 2 oz. of salt.

_Mode_.--Peel and boil the potatoes; beat them to a cream while warm;
then add 1 pint of cold water, strain through a colander, and add to it
1/2 pint of good yeast, which should have been put in water over-night,
to take off its bitterness. Stir all well together with a wooden spoon,
and pour the mixture into the centre of the flour; mix it to the
substance of cream, cover it over closely, and let it remain near the
fire for an hour; then add the 5 pints of water, milk-warm, with 2 oz.
of salt; pour this in, and mix the whole to a nice light dough. Let it
remain for about 2 hours; then make it into 7 loaves, and bake for about
1-1/2 hour in a good oven. When baked, the bread should weigh nearly 20
lbs.

_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour.

    THE RED VARIETIES OF WHEAT are generally hardier and more easily
    grown than the white sorts, and, although of less value to the
    miller, they are fully more profitable to the grower, in
    consequence of the better crops which they produce. Another
    advantage the red wheats possess is their comparative immunity
    from the attacks of mildew and fly. The best English wheat comes
    from the counties of Kent and Essex; the qualities under these
    heads always bearing a higher price than others, as will be seen
    by the periodical lists in the journals.

RICE BREAD.

1720. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of rice allow 4 lbs. of wheat flour,
nearly 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 1/4 oz. of salt. _Mode_.--Boil the
rice in water until it is quite tender; pour off the water, and put the
rice, before it is cold, to the flour. Mix these well together with the
yeast, salt, and sufficient warm water to make the whole into a smooth
dough; let it rise by the side of the fire, then form it into loaves,
and bake them from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to their size. If the
rice is boiled in milk instead of water, it makes very delicious bread
or cakes. When boiled in this manner, it may be mixed with the flour
without straining the liquid from it. _Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours.


INDIAN-CORN-FLOUR BREAD.

1721. INGREDIENTS.--To 4 lbs. of flour allow 2 lbs. of Indian-corn
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 3 pints of warm water, 1/4 oz. of
salt. _Mode_.--Mix the two flours well together, with the salt; make a
hole in the centre, and stir the yeast up well with 1/2 pint of the warm
water; put this into the middle of the flour, and mix enough of it with
the yeast to make a thin batter; throw a little flour over the surface
of this batter, cover the whole with a thick cloth, and set it to rise
in a warm place. When the batter has nicely risen, work the whole to a
nice smooth dough, adding the water as required; knead it well, and
mould the dough into loaves; let them rise for nearly 1/2 hour, then put
them into a well-heated oven. If made into 2 loaves, they will require
from 1-1/2 to 2 hours baking.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours.

[Illustration: MAIZE PLANT.]

[Illustration: EAR OF MAIZE.]

    MAIZE.--Next to wheat and rice, maize is the grain most used in
    the nourishment of man. In Asia, Africa, and America, it is the
    principal daily food of a large portion of the population,
    especially of the colonists. In some of the provinces of France,
    too, it is consumed in large quantities. There are eight
    varieties of the maize; the most productive is the maize of
    Cusco. The flour of maize is yellow, and it contains an oily
    matter, which, when fresh, gives it an agreeable flavour and
    odour; but the action of the air on it soon develops rancidity.
    If carried any distance, it should be stored away in air-tight
    vessels. An excellent soup is prepared with meat and
    maize-flour. The inhabitants of some countries, where wheat is
    scarce, make, with maize and water, or milk and salt, a kind of
    biscuit, which is pleasant in taste, but indigestible. Some of
    the preparations of maize-flour are very good, and, when
    partaken in moderation, suitable food for almost everybody.

SODA BREAD.

1722. INGREDIENTS.--To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 1 teaspoonful of
tartaric acid, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of
soda, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of cold milk.

_Mode_.--Let the tartaric acid and salt be reduced to the finest
possible powder; then mix them well with the flour. Dissolve the soda in
the milk, and pour it several times from one basin to another, before
adding it to the flour. Work the whole quickly into a light dough,
divide it into 2 loaves, and put them into a well-heated oven
immediately, and bake for an hour. Sour milk or buttermilk may be used,
but then a little less acid will be needed.

_Time_.--1 hour.

    POLISH AND POMERANIAN WHEAT are accounted by authorities most
    excellent. Large raft-like barges convey this grain down the
    rivers, from the interior of the country to the seaports. This
    corn is described as being white, hard, and thin-skinned; and it
    yields a large quantity of flour, having a small proportion of
    bran.

EXCELLENT ROLLS.

1723. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1 oz. of butter, 1/4
pint of milk, 1 large teaspoonful of yeast, a little salt.

[Illustration: ROLLS.]

_Mode_.--Warm the butter in the milk, add to it the yeast and salt, and
mix these ingredients well together. Put the flour into a pan, stir in
the above ingredients, and let the dough rise, covered in a warm place.
Knead it well, make it into rolls, let them rise again for a few
minutes, and bake in a quick oven. Richer rolls may be made by adding 1
or 2 eggs and a larger proportion of butter, and their appearance
improved by brushing the tops over with yolk of egg or a little milk.

_Time_--1 lb. of flour, divided into 6 rolls, from 15 to 20 minutes.


HOT ROLLS.

1724. This dish, although very unwholesome and indigestible, is
nevertheless a great favourite, and eaten by many persons. As soon as
the rolls come from the baker's, they should be put into the oven,
which, in the early part of the morning, is sure not to be very hot; and
the rolls must not be buttered until wanted. When they are quite hot,
divide them lengthwise into three; put some thin flakes of good butter
between the slices, press the rolls together, and put them in the oven
for a minute or two, but not longer, or the butter would oil; take them
out of the oven, spread the butter equally over, divide the rolls in
half, and put them on to a very hot clean dish, and send them instantly
to table.


TO MAKE DRY TOAST.

1725. To make dry toast properly, a great deal of attention is required;
much more, indeed, than people generally suppose. Never use new bread
for making any kind of toast, as it eats heavy, and, besides, is very
extravagant. Procure a loaf of household bread about two days old; cut
off as many slices as may be required, not quite 1/4 inch in thickness;
trim off the crusts and ragged edges, put the bread on a toasting-fork,
and hold it before a very clear fire. Move it backwards and forwards
until the bread is nicely coloured; then turn it and toast the other
side, and do not place it so near the fire that it blackens. Dry toast
should be more gradually made than buttered toast, as its great beauty
consists in its crispness, and this cannot be attained unless the
process is slow and the bread is allowed gradually to colour. It should
never be made long before it is wanted, as it soon becomes tough, unless
placed on the fender in front of the fire. As soon as each piece is
ready, it should be put into a rack, or stood upon its edges, and sent
quickly to table.


TO MAKE HOT BUTTERED TOAST.

1726. A loaf of household bread about two days old answers for making
toast better than cottage bread, the latter not being a good shape, and
too crusty for the purpose. Cut as many nice even slices as may be
required, rather more than 1/4 inch in thickness, and toast them before
a very bright fire, without allowing the bread to blacken, which spoils
the appearance and flavour of all toast. When of a nice colour on both
sides, put it on a hot plate; divide some good butter into small pieces,
place them on the toast, set this before the fire, and when the butter
is just beginning to melt, spread it lightly over the toast. Trim off
the crust and ragged edges, divide each round into 4 pieces, and send
the toast quickly to table. Some persons cut the slices of toast across
from corner to corner, so making the pieces of a three-cornered shape.
Soyer recommends that each slice should be cut into pieces as soon as it
is buttered, and when all are ready, that they should be piled lightly
on the dish they are intended to be served on. He says that by cutting
through 4 or 5 slices at a time, all the butter is squeezed out of the
upper ones, while the bottom one is swimming in fat liquid. It is highly
essential to use good butter for making this dish.


MUFFINS.

1727. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of milk allow 1-1/2 oz. of German
yeast, a little salt; flour.

[Illustration: MUFFINS.]

_Mode_.--Warm the milk, add to it the yeast, and mix these well
together; put them into a pan, and stir in sufficient flour to make the
whole into a dough of rather a soft consistence; cover it over with a
cloth, and place it in a warm place to rise, and, when light and nicely
risen, divide the dough into pieces, and round them to the proper shape
with the hands; place them, in a layer of flour about two inches thick,
on wooden trays, and let them rise again; when this is effected, they
each will exhibit a semi-globular shape. Then place them carefully on a
hot-plate or stove, and bake them until they are slightly browned,
turning them when they are done on one side. Muffins are not easily
made, and are more generally purchased than manufactured at home. _To
toast them_, divide the edge of the muffin all round, by pulling it
open, to the depth of about an inch, with the fingers. Put it on a
toasting-fork, and hold it before a very clear fire until one side is
nicely browned, but not burnt; turn, and toast it on the other. Do not
toast them too quickly, as, if this is done, the middle of the muffin
will not be warmed through. When done, divide them by pulling them open;
butter them slightly on both sides, put them together again, and cut
them into halves: when sufficient are toasted and buttered, pile them on
a very hot dish, and send them very quickly to table.

_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to bake them.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 muffin to each person.


CRUMPETS.

[Illustration: CRUMPETS.]

1728. These are made in the same manner as muffins; only, in making the
mixture, let it be more like batter than dough. Let it rise for about
1/2 hour; pour it into iron rings, which should be ready on a hot-plate;
bake them, and when one side appears done, turn them quickly on the
other. _To toast them_, have ready a very _bright clear_ fire; put the
crumpet on a toasting-fork, and hold it before the fire, _not too
close_, until it is nicely brown on one side, but do not allow it to
blacken. Turn it, and brown the other side; then spread it with good
butter, cut it in half, and, when all are done, pile them on a hot dish,
and send them quickly to table. Muffins and crumpets should always be
served on separate dishes, and both toasted and served as expeditiously
as possible.

_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes to bake them.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 crumpets to each person.


PLAIN BUNS.

1729. INGREDIENTS.--To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 6 oz. of moist sugar,
1/2 gill of yeast, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. of butter, warm milk.

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, mix the sugar well with it, make a
hole in the centre, and stir in the yeast and milk (which should be
lukewarm), with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream.
Cover the basin over with a cloth, and let the sponge rise in a warm
place, which will be accomplished in about 1-1/2 hour. Melt the butter,
but do not allow it to oil; stir it into the other ingredients, with
enough warm milk to make the whole into a soft dough; then mould it into
buns about the size of an egg; lay them in rows quite 3 inches apart;
set them again in a warm place, until they have risen to double their
size; then put them into a good brisk oven, and just before they are
done, wash them over with a little milk. From 15 to 20 minutes will be
required to bake them nicely. These buns may be varied by adding a few
currants, candied peel, or caraway seeds to the other ingredients; and
the above mixture answers for hot cross buns, by putting in a little
ground allspice; and by pressing a tin mould in the form of a cross in
the centre of the bun.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. each.

_Sufficient_ to make 18 buns.


TO MAKE GOOD PLAIN BUNS.

1730. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of good butter, 1/4 lb. of
sugar, 1 egg, nearly 1/4 pint of milk, 2 small teaspoonfuls of
baking-powder, a few drops of essence of lemon.

_Mode_.--Warm the butter, without oiling it; beat it with a wooden
spoon; stir the flour in gradually with the sugar, and mix these
ingredients well together. Make the milk lukewarm, beat up with it the
yolk of the egg and the essence of lemon, and stir these to the flour,
&c. Add the baking-powder, beat the dough well for about 10 minutes,
divide it into 24 pieces, put them into buttered tins or cups, and bake
in a brisk oven from 20 to 30 minutes.

_Time_.--20 to 30 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to make 12 buns. _Seasonable_ at any time.


LIGHT BUNS.

[Illustration: BUNS.]

1731. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 1/2 teaspoonful of
bicarbonate of soda, 1 lb. of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of loaf
sugar, 1/4 lb. of currants or raisins,--when liked, a few caraway seeds,
1/2 pint of cold new milk, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Rub the tartaric acid, soda, and flour all together through a
hair sieve; work the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, and
caraway seeds, when the flavour of them latter is liked. Mix all these
ingredients well together; make a hole in the middle of the flour, and
pour in the milk, mixed with the egg, which should be well beaten; mix
quickly, and set the dough, with a fork, on baking-tins, and bake the
buns for about 20 minutes. This mixture makes a very good cake, and if
put into a tin, should be baked 1-1/2 hour. The same quantity of flour,
soda, and tartaric acid, with 1/2 pint of milk and a little salt, will
make either bread or teacakes, if wanted quickly.

_Time_.--20 minutes for the buns; if made into a cake, 1-1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_ to make about 12 buns.


VICTORIA BUNS.

1732. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 egg, 1-1/2 oz. of
ground rice, 2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of currants, a few thin slices
of candied peel; flour.

_Mode_.--Whisk the egg, stir in the sugar, and beat these ingredients
well together; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the ground rice,
currants, and candied peel, and as much flour as will make it of such a
consistency that it may be rolled into 7 or 8 balls. Put these on to a
buttered tin, and bake them from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They should be put
into the oven immediately, or they will become heavy; and the oven
should be tolerably brisk.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 buns. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ITALIAN RUSKS.

1733. A stale Savoy or lemon cake may be converted into very good rusks
in the following manner. Cut the cake into slices, divide each slice in
two; put them on a baking-sheet, in a slow oven, and when they are of a
nice brown and quite hard, they are done. They should be kept in a
closed tin canister in a dry place, to preserve their crispness.

[Illustration: PANNICLED MILLET.]

    PANNICLED MILLET.--This is the smallest-seeded of the
    corn-plants, being a true grass; but the number of the seeds in
    each ear makes up for their size. It grows in sandy soils that
    will not do for the cultivation of many other kinds of grain,
    and forms the chief sustenance in the arid districts of Arabia,
    Syria, Nubia, and parts of India. It is not cultivated in
    England, being principally confined to the East. The nations who
    make use of it grind it, in the primitive manner, between two
    stones, and make it into a diet which, cannot be properly called
    bread, but rather a kind of soft thin cake half-baked. When we
    take into account that the Arabians are fond of lizards and
    locusts as articles of food, their _cuisine_, altogether, is
    scarcely a tempting one.

TO MAKE RUSKS.

(_Suffolk Recipe_.)

1734. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 2 oz. of butter, 1/4
pint of milk, 2 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of yeast.

[Illustration: RUSKS.]

_Mode_.--Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and keep shaking it
round until the latter is melted. Put the flour into a basin with the
sugar, mix these well together, and beat the eggs. Stir them with the
yeast to the milk and butter, and with this liquid work the flour into a
smooth dough. Cover a cloth over the basin, and leave the dough to rise
by the side of the fire; then knead it, and divide it into 12 pieces;
place them in a brisk oven, and bake for about 20 minutes. Take the
rusks out, break them in half, and then set them in the oven to get
crisp on the other side. When cold, they should be put into tin
canisters to keep them dry; and, if intended for the cheese course, the
sifted sugar should be omitted.

_Time_.--20 minutes to bake the rusks; 5 minutes to render them crisp
after being divided.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen rusks. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ALMOND ICING FOR CAKES.

1735. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar allow 1
lb. of sweet almonds, the whites of 4 eggs, a little rose-water.

_Mode_.--Blanch the almonds, and pound them (a few at a time) in a
mortar to a paste, adding a little rose-water to facilitate the
operation. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a strong froth; mix them with
the pounded almonds, stir in the sugar, and beat altogether. When the
cake is sufficiently baked, lay on the almond icing, and put it into the
oven to dry. Before laying this preparation on the cake, great care must
be taken that it is nice and smooth, which is easily accomplished by
well beating the mixture.


SUGAR ICING FOR CAKES.

1736. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of loaf sugar allow the whites of 4
eggs, 1 oz. of fine starch.

_Mode_.--Beat the eggs to a strong froth, and gradually sift in the
sugar, which should be reduced to the finest possible powder, and
gradually add the starch, also finely powdered. Beat the mixture well
until the sugar is smooth; then with a spoon or broad knife lay the
icing equally over the cakes. These should then be placed in a very cool
oven, and the icing allowed to dry and harden, but not to colour. The
icing may be coloured with strawberry or currant-juice, or with prepared
cochineal. If it be put on the cakes as soon as they are withdrawn from
the oven, it will become firm and hard by the time the cakes are cold.
On very rich cakes, such as wedding, christening cakes, &c., a layer of
almond icing, No. 1735, is usually spread over the top, and over that
the white icing as described. All iced cakes should be kept in a very
dry place.


BISCUIT POWDER, generally used for Infants' Food.

1737. This powder may be purchased in tin canisters, and may also be
prepared at home. Dry the biscuits well in a slow oven; roll them and
grind them with a rolling-pin on a clean board, until they are reduced
to powder; sift it through a close hair sieve, and it is fit for use. It
should be kept in well-covered tins, and in a dry place.


ARROWROOT BISCUITS OR DROPS.

1738. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz.
of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. of pounded loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; whisk the eggs to a strong froth,
add them to the butter, stir in the flour a little at a time, and beat
the mixture well. Break down all the lumps from the arrowroot, and add
that with the sugar to the other ingredients. Mix all well together,
drop the dough on a buttered tin, in pieces the size of a shilling, and
bake the biscuits about 1/4 hour in a slow oven.

_Time_.--1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to make from 3 to 4 dozen biscuits.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


NICE BREAKFAST CAKES.

1739. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of tartaric acid,
1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1-1/2
breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of sifted loaf sugar, 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--These cakes are made in the same manner as the soda bread No.
1722, with the addition of eggs and sugar. Mix the flour, tartaric acid,
and salt well together, taking care that the two latter ingredients are
reduced to the finest powder, and stir in the sifted sugar, which should
also be very fine. Dissolve the soda in the milk, add the eggs, which
should be well whisked, and with this liquid work the flour, &c. into a
light dough. Divide it into small cakes, put them into the oven
immediately, and bake for about 20 minutes.

_Time_.--20 minutes.


COCOA-NUT BISCUITS OR CAKES.

1740. INGREDIENTS.--10 oz. of sifted sugar, 3 eggs, 6 oz. of grated
cocoa-nut.

_Mode_.--Whisk the eggs until they are very light; add the sugar
gradually; then stir in the cocoa-nut. Roll a tablespoonful of the paste
at a time in your hands in the form of a pyramid; place the pyramids on
paper, put the paper on tins, and bake the biscuits in rather a cool
oven until they are just coloured a light brown.

_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time.


CRISP BISCUITS.

1741. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour and the yolk of the egg with sufficient milk to
make the whole into a very stiff paste; beat it well, and knead it until
it is perfectly smooth. Roll the paste out very thin; with a round
cutter shape it into small biscuits, and bake them a nice brown in a
slow oven from 12 to 18 minutes.

_Time_.--12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


DESSERT BISCUITS, which may be flavoured with Ground Ginger, Cinnamon,
&c. &c.

1742. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted
sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, flavouring to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the butter into a basin; warm it, but do not allow it to
oil; then with the hand beat it to a cream. Add the flour by degrees,
then the sugar and flavouring, and moisten the whole with the yolks of
the eggs, which should previously be well beaten. When all the
ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, drop the mixture from a spoon
on to a buttered paper, leaving a distance between each cake, as they
spread as soon as they begin to get warm. Bake in rather a slow oven
from 12 to 18 minutes, and do not let the biscuits acquire too much
colour. In making the above quantity, half may be flavoured with ground
ginger and the other half with essence of lemon or currants, to make a
variety. With whatever the preparation is flavoured, so are the biscuits
called; and an endless variety may be made in this manner.

_Time_.--12 to 18 minutes, or rather longer, in a very slow oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to make from 3 to 4 dozen cakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMON BISCUITS.

1743--INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 oz. of
fresh butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of lemon-peel, 2 dessertspoonfuls of
lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Rub the flour into the butter; stir in the pounded sugar and
very finely-minced lemon-peel, and when these ingredients are thoroughly
mixed, add the eggs, which should be previously well whisked, and the
lemon-juice. Beat the mixture well for a minute or two, then drop it
from a spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches apart, as the cakes
will spread when they get warm; place the tin in the oven, and bake the
cakes of a pale brown from 15 to 20 minutes.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


MACAROONS.

1744. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. of sifted loaf
sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, wafer-paper.

[Illustration: MACAROONS.]

_Mode_.--Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them well with a
little orange-flower water or plain water; then add to them the sifted
sugar and the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a stiff
froth, and mix all the ingredients well together. When the paste looks
soft, drop it at equal distances from a biscuit-syringe on to sheets of
wafer-paper; put a strip of almond on the top of each; strew some sugar
over, and bake the macaroons in rather a slow oven, of a light brown
colour when hard and set, they are done, and must not be allowed to get
very brown, as that would spoil their appearance. If the cakes, when
baked, appear heavy, add a little more white of egg, but let this always
be well whisked before it is added to the other ingredients. We have
given a recipe for making these cakes, but we think it almost or quite
as economical to purchase such articles as these at a good
confectioner's.

_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes, in a slow oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. per lb.


RATAFIAS.

[Illustration: RATAFIAS.]

1745. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of bitter ones,
3/4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them in a mortar
with the white of an egg; stir in the sugar, and gradually add the
remaining whites of eggs, taking care that they are very thoroughly
whisked. Drop the mixture through a small biscuit-syringe on to
cartridge paper, and bake the cakes from 10 to 12 minutes in rather a
quicker oven than for macaroons. A very small quantity should be dropped
on the paper to form one cake, as, when baked, the ratafias should be
about the size of a large button.

_Time_.--10 to 12 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. per lb.


RICE BISCUITS OR CAKES.

1746. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1/2 lb. of rice-flour allow 1/4 lb. of
pounded lump sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 eggs.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the rice-flour and pounded
sugar, and moisten the whole with the eggs, which should be previously
well beaten. Roll out the paste, shape it with a round paste-cutter into
small cakes, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in a very slow oven.

_Time_.--12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ to make about 18 cakes. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    GROUND RICE, or rice-flour, is used for making several kinds of
    cakes, also for thickening soups, and for mixing with wheaten
    flour in producing Manna Kroup. The Americans make rice-bread,
    and prepare the flour for it in the following manner:--When the
    rice is thoroughly cleansed, the water is drawn off, and the
    rice, while damp, bruised in a mortar: it is then dried, and
    passed through a hair sieve.

ROCK BISCUITS.

1747. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/2 lb. of flour, a
few currants.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, beat them well until very light,
add the pounded sugar, and when this is well mixed with the eggs, dredge
in the flour gradually, and add the currants. Mix all well together, and
put the dough, with a fork, on the tins, making it look as rough as
possible. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour;
when they are done, allow them to get cool, and store them away in a tin
canister, in a dry place.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SAVOY BISCUITS OR CAKES.

1748. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, the rind of 1 lemon,
6 oz. of flour.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, separating the whites from the
yolks; beat the yolks well, mix with them the pounded sugar and grated
lemon-rind, and beat these ingredients together for 1/4 hour. Then
dredge in the flour gradually, and when the whites of the eggs have been
whisked to a solid froth, stir them to the flour, &c.; beat the mixture
well for another 5 minutes, then draw it along in strips upon thick
cartridge paper to the proper size of the biscuit, and bake them in
rather a hot oven; but let them be carefully watched, as they are soon
done, and a few seconds over the proper time will scorch and spoil them.
These biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they are called, are used for
making Charlotte russes, and for a variety of fancy sweet dishes.

_Time_.--5 to 8 minutes, in a quick oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. per lb., or 1/2d. each.


SEED BISCUITS.

1749. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. of
butter, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the flour, sugar, and
caraway seeds; and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the eggs,
which should be well whisked. Roll out the paste, with a round cutter
shape out the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven from 10 to 15
minutes. The tops of the biscuits may be brushed over with a little milk
or the white of an egg, and then a little sugar strewn over.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to make 3 dozen biscuits. _Seasonable_ at any time.


SIMPLE HARD BISCUITS.

1750. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 2 oz. of butter, about
1/2 pint of skimmed milk.

_Mode_.--Warm the butter in the milk until the former is dissolved, and
then mix it with the flour into a very stiff paste; beat it with a
rolling-pin until the dough looks perfectly smooth. Roll it out thin;
cut it with the top of a glass into round biscuits; prick them well, and
bake them from 6 to 10 minutes. The above is the proportion of milk
which we think would convert the flour into a stiff paste; but should it
be found too much, an extra spoonful or two of flour must be put in.
These biscuits are very nice for the cheese course.

_Time_.--6 to 10 minutes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SODA BISCUITS.

1751. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1/4
lb. of fresh butter, 2 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

_Mode_.--Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin; rub
in the butter, add the sugar, and mix these ingredients well together.
Whisk the eggs, stir them into the mixture, and beat it well, until
everything is well incorporated. Quickly stir in the soda, roll the
paste out until it is about 1/2 inch thick, cut it into small round
cakes with a tin cutter, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in rather a
brisk oven. After the soda is added, great expedition is necessary in
rolling and cutting out the paste, and in putting the biscuits
_immediately_ into the oven, or they will be heavy.

_Time_.--12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to make about 3 dozen cakes. _Seasonable_ at any time.


ALMOND CAKE.

1752. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of bitter almonds, 6
eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 5 tablespoonfuls of fine flour,
the grated rind of 1 lemon, 3 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds to a paste; separate the whites
from the yolks of the eggs; beat the latter, and add them to the
almonds. Stir in the sugar, flour, and lemon-rind; add the butter, which
should be beaten to a cream; and when all these ingredients are well
mixed, put in the whites of the eggs, which should be whisked to a stiff
froth. Butter a cake-mould, put in the mixture, and bake in a good oven
from 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour.

_Time_.--1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


RICH BRIDE OR CHRISTENING CAKE.

1753. INGREDIENTS.--5 lbs. of the finest flour, 3 lbs. of fresh butter,
5 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. of sifted loaf sugar, 2 nutmegs, 1/4 oz. of
mace, half 1/4 oz. of cloves, 16 eggs, 1 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb.
of candied citron, 1/2 lb. each of candied orange and lemon peel, 1 gill
of wine, 1 gill of brandy.

_Mode_.--Let the flour be as fine as possible, and well dried and
sifted; the currants washed, picked, and dried before the fire; the
sugar well pounded and sifted; the nutmegs grated, the spices pounded;
the eggs thoroughly whisked, whites and yolks separately; the almonds
pounded with a little orange-flower water, and the candied peel cut in
neat slices. When all these ingredients are prepared, mix them in the
following manner. Begin working the butter with the hand till it becomes
of a cream-like consistency; stir in the sugar, and when the whites of
the eggs are whisked to a solid froth, mix them with the butter and
sugar; next, well beat up the yolks for 10 minutes, and, adding them to
the flour, nutmegs, mace, and cloves, continue beating the whole
together for 1/2 hour or longer, till wanted for the oven. Then mix in
lightly the currants, almonds, and candied peel with the wine and
brandy; and having lined a hoop with buttered paper, fill it with the
mixture, and bake the cake in a tolerably quick oven, taking care,
however, not to burn it: to prevent this, the top of it may be covered
with a sheet of paper. To ascertain whether the cake is done, plunge a
clean knife into the middle of it, withdraw it directly, and if the
blade is not sticky, and looks bright, the cake is sufficiently baked.
These cakes are usually spread with a thick layer of almond icing, and
over that another layer of sugar icing, and afterwards ornamented. In
baking a large cake like this, great attention must be paid to the heat
of the oven; it should not be too fierce, but have a good soaking heat.

_Time_.--5 to 6 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. per lb.


CHRISTMAS CAKE.

1754. INGREDIENTS.--5 teacupfuls of flour, 1 teacupful of melted butter,
1 teacupful of cream, 1 teacupful of treacle, 1 teacupful of moist
sugar, 2 eggs, 1/2 oz. of powdered ginger, 1/2 lb. of raisins, 1
teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.

_Mode_.--Make the butter sufficiently warm to melt it, but do not allow
it to oil; put the flour into a basin; add to it the sugar, ginger, and
raisins, which should be stoned and cut into small pieces. When these
dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in the butter, cream,
treacle, and well-whisked eggs, and beat the mixture for a few minutes.
Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, add it to the dough, and be particular
that these latter ingredients are well incorporated with the others; put
the cake into a buttered mould or tin, place it in a moderate oven
immediately, and bake it from 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours.

_Time_.--1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.


COMMON CAKE, suitable for sending to Children at School.

1755. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 4 oz. of butter or clarified
dripping, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/2 lb. of
pounded sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of
fresh yeast.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter lightly into the flour; add all the dry
ingredients, and mix these well together. Make the milk warm, but not
hot; stir in the yeast, and with this liquid make the whole into a light
dough; knead it well, and line the cake-tins with strips of buttered
paper; this paper should be about 6 inches higher than the top of the
tin. Put in the dough; stand it in a warm place to rise for more than an
hour; then bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. If this quantity be
divided in two, they will take from 1-1/2 to 2 hours' baking.

_Time_.--1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.


ECONOMICAL CAKE.

[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.]

1756. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter
or lard, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, the
whites of 4 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk.

_Mode_,--In making many sweet dishes, the whites of eggs are not
required, and if well beaten and added to the above ingredients, make an
excellent cake, with or without currants. Beat the butter to a cream,
well whisk the whites of the eggs, and stir all the ingredients together
but the soda, which must not be added until all is well mixed, and the
cake is ready to be put into the oven. When the mixture has been well
beaten, stir in the soda, put the cake into a buttered mould, and bake
it in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hour.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

A NICE USEFUL CAKE.

1757. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 1/4 lb. of
sugar 1 lb. of dried flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 3 eggs, 1
teacupful of milk, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of candied peel.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; wash, pick, and dry the currants;
whisk the eggs; blanch and chop the almonds, and cut the peel into neat
slices. When all these are ready, mix the dry ingredients together; then
add the butter, milk, and eggs, and beat the mixture well for a few
minutes. Put the cake into a buttered mould or tin, and bake it for
rather more than 1-1/2 hour. The currants and candied peel may be
omitted, and a little lemon or almond flavouring substituted for them:
made in this manner, the cake will be found very good.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.


HONEY CAKE.

1758. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 breakfast-cupful of sugar, 1 breakfast-cupful of
rich sour cream, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of
carbonate of soda, honey to taste.

_Mode_.--Mix the sugar and cream together; dredge in the flour, with as
much honey as will flavour the mixture nicely; stir it well, that all
the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed; add the carbonate of soda, and
beat the cake well for another 5 minutes; put it into a buttered tin,
bake it from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, and let it be eaten warm.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.


RICH SWEETMEAT GINGERBREAD NUTS.

1759. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of treacle, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter, 1 lb.
of coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of candied
orange-peel, 1 oz. of candied angelica, 1/2 oz. of candied lemon-peel,
1/2 oz. of coriander seeds, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg; flour.

_Mode_.--Put the treacle into a basin, and pour over it the butter,
melted so as not to oil, the sugar, and ginger. Stir these ingredients
well together, and whilst mixing, add the candied peel, which should be
cut into very small pieces, but not bruised, and the caraway and
coriander seeds, which should be pounded. Having mixed all thoroughly
together, break in an egg, and work the whole up with as much fine flour
as may be necessary to form a paste. Make this into nuts of any size,
put them on a tin plate, and bake in a slow oven from 1/4 to 1/2 hour.

_Time_.--1/4 to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 4d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


THICK GINGERBREAD.

1760. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of treacle, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of
coarse brown sugar, 1-1/2 lb. of flour, 1 oz. of ginger, 1/2 oz. of
ground allspice, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1/4 pint of warm
milk, 3 eggs.

[Illustration: GINGERBREAD.]

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, with the sugar, ginger, and
allspice; mix these together; warm the butter, and add it, with the
treacle, to the other ingredients. Stir well; make the milk just warm,
dissolve the carbonate of soda in it, and mix the whole into a nice
smooth dough with the eggs, which should be previously well whisked;
pour the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake it from 3/4 to 1 hour, or
longer, should the gingerbread be very thick. Just before it is done,
brush the top over with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk,
and put it back in the oven to finish baking.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per square.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SUNDERLAND GINGERBREAD NUTS.

(_An Excellent Recipe_.)

1761. INGREDIENTS.--1-3/4 lb. treacle, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of
butter, 2-3/4 lbs. of flour, 1-1/2 oz. of ground ginger, 1-1/2 oz. of
allspice, 1-1/2 oz. of coriander seeds.

_Mode_.--Let the allspice, coriander seeds, and ginger be freshly
ground; put them into a basin, with the flour and sugar, and mix these
ingredients well together; warm the treacle and butter together; then
with a spoon work it into the flour, &c., until the whole forms a nice
smooth paste. Drop the mixture from the spoon on to a piece of buttered
paper, and bake in rather a slow oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. A
little candied lemon-peel mixed with the above is an improvement, and a
great authority in culinary matters suggests the addition of a little
cayenne pepper in gingerbread. Whether it be advisable to use this
latter ingredient or not, we leave our readers to decide.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 4d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


WHITE GINGERBREAD.

1762. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of loaf
sugar, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1 nutmeg grated, 1/2
teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 gill of milk.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, which should be
finely pounded and sifted, and the minced lemon-rind, ginger, and
nutmeg. Mix these well together; make the milk just warm, stir in the
soda, and work the whole into a nice smooth paste; roll it out, cut it
into cakes, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


GOOD HOLIDAY CAKE.

1763. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2d. worth of Borwick's German baking-powder, 2
lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1 lb. of currants, 1/2
lb. of stoned and cut raisins, 1/4 lb. of mixed candied peel, 1/2 lb. of
moist sugar, 3 eggs, 3/4 pint of cold milk.

_Mode_.--Mix the baking-powder with the flour; then rub in the butter
and lard; have ready the currants, washed, picked, and dried the raisins
stoned and cut into small pieces (not chopped), and the peel cut into
neat slices. Add these with the sugar to the flour, &c., and mix all the
dry ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the milk,
and with this liquid moisten the cake; beat it up well, that all may be
very thoroughly mixed; line a cake-tin with buttered paper, put in the
cake, and bake it from 2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours in a good oven. To ascertain
when it is done, plunge a clean knife into the middle of it, and if, on
withdrawing it, the knife looks clean, and not sticky, the cake is done.
To prevent its burning at the top, a piece of clean paper may be put
over whilst the cake is soaking, or being thoroughly cooked in the
middle. A steamer, such as is used for steaming potatoes, makes a very
good cake-tin, if it be lined at the bottom and sides with buttered
paper.

_Time_.--2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMON CAKE.

1764. INGREDIENTS.--10 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water,
3/4 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 lemon, 3/4 lb. of flour.

[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs whisk the former
to a stiff froth; add the orange-flower water, the sugar, grated
lemon-rind, and mix these ingredients well together. Then beat the yolks
of the eggs, and add them, with the lemon-juice, to the whites, &c.;
dredge in the flour gradually; keep beating the mixture well; put it
into a buttered mould, and bake the cake about an hour, or rather
longer. The addition of a little butter, beaten to a cream, we think,
would improve this cake.

_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


LUNCHEON CAKE.

1765. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of
caraway seeds, 1/4 lb. of currants, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of
candied peel, 3 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate
of soda.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour until it is quite fine; add the
caraway seeds, currants (which should be nicely washed, picked, and
dried), sugar, and candied peel cut into thin slices; mix these well
together, and moisten with the eggs, which should be well whisked. Boil
the milk, and add to it, whilst boiling, the carbonate of soda, which
must be well stirred into it, and, with the milk, mix the other
ingredients. Butter a tin, pour the cake into it, and bake it in a
moderate oven from 3/4 to 1 hour.

_Time_.--1 to 14 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. _Seasonable_ at any time.

    CARBONATE OF SODA--Soda was called the mineral alkali, because
    it was originally dug up out of the ground in Africa and other
    countries: this state of carbonate of soda is called _natron._
    But carbonate of soda is likewise procured from the combustion
    of marine plants, or such as grow on the sea-shore. Pure
    carbonate of soda is employed for making effervescing draughts,
    with lemon-juice, citric acid, or tartaric acid. The chief
    constituent of soda, the alkali, has been used in France from
    time immemorial in the manufacture of soap and glass, two
    chemical productions which employ and keep in circulation an
    immense amount of capital. A small pinch of carbonate of soda
    will give an extraordinary lightness to puff pastes; and,
    introduced into the teapot, will extract the full strength of
    the tea. But its qualities have a powerful effect upon delicate
    constitutions, and it is not to be used incautiously in any
    preparation.

A NICE PLAIN CAKE.

1766. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of Borwick's
baking-powder, 1/4 lb. of good dripping, 1 teacupful of moist sugar, 3
eggs, 1 breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/2 lb. of
currants.

_Mode_.--Put the flour and baking-powder into a basin; stir those
together; then rub in the dripping, add the sugar, caraway seeds, and
currants; whisk the eggs with the milk, and beat all together very
thoroughly until the ingredients are well mixed. Butter a tin, put in
the cake, and bake it from 11/2 to 2 hours. Let the dripping be quite
clean before using: to insure this, it is a good plan to clarify it.
Beef dripping is better than any other for cakes, &c., as mutton
dripping frequently has a very unpleasant flavour, which would be
imparted to the preparation.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


A NICE PLAIN CAKE FOR CHILDREN.

1767. INGREDIENTS.--1 quartern of dough, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb.
of butter or good beef dripping, 1/4 pint of warm milk, 1/2 grated
nutmeg or 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds.

_Mode_.--If you are not in the habit of making bread at home, procure
the dough from the baker's, and, as soon as it comes in, put it into a
basin near the fire; cover the basin with a thick cloth, and let the
dough remain a little while to rise. In the mean time, beat the butter
to a cream, and make the milk warm; and when the dough has risen, mix
with it thoroughly all the above ingredients, and knead the cake well
for a few minutes. Butter some cake-tins, half fill them, and stand them
in a warm place, to allow the dough to rise again. When the tins are
three parts full, put the cakes into a good oven, and bake them from
13/4 to 2 hours. A few currants might be substituted for the caraway
seeds when the flavour of the latter is disliked.

_Time_.--1-3/4 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, _1s. 2d._

_Seasonable_ at any time.


COMMON PLUM CAKE.

1768. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter or good dripping, 6
oz. of moist sugar, 6 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of pounded allspice, 2
tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast, 1 pint of new milk.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, and
allspice; warm the milk, stir to it the yeast, and mix the whole into a
dough; knead it well, and put it into 6 buttered tins; place them near
the fire for nearly an hour for the dough to rise, then bake the cakes
in a good oven from 1 to 11/4 hour. To ascertain when they are done,
plunge a clean knife into the middle, and if on withdrawal it comes out
clean, the cakes are done.

_Time_.--1 to 1-1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ to make 6 small cakes.


A NICE PLUM CAKE.

1769. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sugar,
1/2 lb. of currants, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1/2 pint of milk, 1
teaspoonful of ammonia or carbonate of soda.

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin with the sugar, currants, and sliced
candied peel; beat the butter to a cream, and mix all these ingredients
together with the milk. Stir the ammonia into 2 tablespoonfuls of milk
and add it to the dough, and beat the whole well, until everything is
thoroughly mixed. Put the dough into a buttered tin, and bake the cake
from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


POUND CAKE.

[Illustration: POUND CAKE.]

1770. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of butter, 1-1/4 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of
pounded loaf sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 9 eggs, 2 oz. of candied peel,
1/2 oz. of citron, 1/2 oz. of sweet almonds; when liked, a little
pounded mace.

_Mode_.--Work the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar,
currants, candied peel, which should be cut into neat slices, and the
almonds, which should be blanched and chopped, and mix all these well
together; whisk the eggs, and let them be thoroughly blended with the
dry ingredients. Beat the cake well for 20 minutes, and put it into a
round tin, lined at the bottom and sides with a strip of white buttered
paper. Bake it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, and let the oven be well heated
when the cake is first put in, as, if this is not the case, the currants
will all sink to the bottom of it. To make this preparation light, the
yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately, and added
separately to the other ingredients. A glass of wine is sometimes added
to the mixture; but this is scarcely necessary, as the cake will be
found quite rich enough without it.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient._--The above quantity divided in two will make two
nice-sized cakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


A PAVINI CAKE.

1771. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of ground rice, 1/2 lb. of
raisins stoned and cut into small pieces, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb.
of butter, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, 1/2
nutmeg grated, 1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

_Mode_.--Stone and cut the raisins into small pieces; wash, pick, and
dry the currants; melt the butter to a cream, but without oiling it;
blanch and chop the almonds, and grate the nutmeg. When all these
ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together; make the milk
warm, stir in the soda, and with this liquid make the whole into a
paste. Butter a mould, rather more than half fill it with the dough, and
bake the cake in a moderate oven from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or less time
should it be made into 2 cakes.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.]

RICE CAKE.

1772. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of ground rice, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of
loaf sugar, 9 eggs, 20 drops of essence of lemon, or the rind of 1
lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter.

_Mode_.--Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs; whisk them both
well, and add to the latter the butter beaten to a cream. Stir in the
flour, rice, and lemon (if the rind is used, it must be very finely
minced), and beat the mixture well; then add the whites of the eggs,
beat the cake again for some time, put it into a buttered mould or tin,
and bake it for nearly 1-1/2 hour. It may be flavoured with essence of
almonds, when this is preferred.

_Time_.--Nearly 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


QUEEN-CAKES.

1773. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of
pounded loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1
teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, essence of lemon, or almonds to taste.

_Mode_.--Work the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour, add the sugar
and currants, and mix the ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, mix
them with the cream and flavouring, and stir these to the flour; add the
carbonate of soda, beat the paste well for 10 minutes, put it into small
buttered pans, and bake the cake from 1/4 to 1/2 hour.

Grated lemon-rind may be substituted for the lemon and almond
flavouring, which will make the cakes equally nice.

_Time_. 1/4 to 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SAUCER-CAKE FOR TEA.

1774. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of _tous-les-mois_, 1/4
lb. of pounded white sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 oz. of candied
orange or lemon-peel.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour and _tous-les-mois_ together; add the sugar, the
candied peel cut into thin slices, the butter beaten to a cream, and the
eggs well whisked. Beat the mixture for 10 minutes, put it into a
buttered cake-tin or mould, or, if this is not obtainable, a soup-plate
answers the purpose, lined with a piece of buttered paper. Bake the cake
in a moderate oven from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, and when cold, put it away in a
covered canister. It will remain good some weeks, even if it be cut into
slices.

_Time_.--1 to 1-1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


COMMON SEED-CAKE.

1775. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 quartern of dough, 1/4 lb. of good dripping, 6
oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--If the dough is sent in from the baker's, put it in a basin
covered with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. Then with a
wooden spoon beat the dripping to a liquid; add it, with the other
ingredients, to the dough, and beat it until everything is very
thoroughly mixed. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake the cake for
rather more than 2 hours.

_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


A VERY GOOD SEED-CAKE.

1776. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, 3/4 lb. of sifted sugar,
pounded mace and grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. of flour, 3/4 oz. of
caraway seeds, 1 wineglassful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar,
mace, nutmeg, and caraway seeds, and mix these ingredients well
together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the brandy, and beat the cake
again for 10 minutes. Put it into a tin lined with buttered paper, and
bake it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. This cake would be equally nice made with
currants, and omitting the caraway seeds.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

    BREAD-MAKING IN SPAIN.--The bread in the south of Spain is
    delicious: it is white as snow, close as cake, and yet very
    light; the flavour is most admirable, for the wheat is good and
    pure, and the bread well kneaded. The way they make this bread
    is as follows:--From large round panniers filled with wheat they
    take out a handful at a time, sorting it most carefully and
    expeditiously, and throwing every defective grain into another
    basket. This done, the wheat is ground between two circular
    stones, as it was ground in Egypt 2,000 years ago (see No. 117),
    the requisite rotary motion being given by a blindfolded mule,
    which paces round and round with untiring patience, a bell being
    attached to his neck, which, as long as he is in movement,
    tinkles on; and when it stops, he is urged to his duty by the
    shout of "_Arre, mula_," from some one within hearing. When
    ground, the wheat is sifted through three sieves, the last of
    these being so fine that only the pure flour can pass through
    it: this is of a pale apricot-colour. The bread is made in the
    evening. It is mixed with only sufficient water, with a little
    salt in it, to make it into dough: a very small quantity of
    leaven, or fermenting mixture is added. The Scripture says, "A
    little leaven leaveneth the whole lump;" but in England, to
    avoid the trouble of kneading, many put as much leaven or yeast
    in one batch of household bread as in Spain would last them a
    week for the six or eight donkey-loads of bread they send every
    night from their oven. The dough made, it is put into sacks, and
    carried on the donkeys' backs to the oven in the centre of the
    village, so as to bake it immediately it is kneaded. On arriving
    there, the dough is divided into portions weighing 3 lbs. each.
    Two long narrow wooden tables on trestles are then placed down
    the room; and now a curious sight may be seen. About twenty men
    (bakers) come in and range themselves on one side of the tables.
    A lump of dough is handed to the nearest, which he commences
    kneading and knocking about with all his might for about 3 or 4
    minutes, and then passes it on to his neighbour, who does the
    same; and so on successively until all have kneaded it, when it
    becomes as soft as new putty, and ready for the oven. Of course,
    as soon as the first baker has handed the first lump to his
    neighbour, another is given to him, and so on till the whole
    quantity of dough is successively kneaded by them all. The
    bakers' wives and daughters shape the loaves for the oven, and
    some of them are very small, and they are baked immediately. The
    ovens are very large, and not heated by fires _under_ them; but
    a quantity of twigs of the herbs of sweet marjoram and thyme,
    which cover the hills in great profusion, are put in the oven
    and ignited. They heat the oven to any extent required; and, as
    the bread gets baked, the oven gets gradually colder; so the
    bread is never burned. They knead the bread in Spain with such
    force, that the palm of the hand and the second joints of the
    fingers of the bakers are covered with corns; and it so affects
    the chest, that they cannot work more than two hours at a time.

SNOW-CAKE.

1777. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of _tous-les-mois_, 1/4 lb. of white pounded
sugar, 1/4 lb. of fresh or washed salt butter, 1 egg, the juice of 1
lemon.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; then add the egg, previously well
beaten, and then the other ingredients; if the mixture is not light, add
another egg, and beat for 1/4 hour, until it turns white and light. Line
a flat tin, with raised edges, with a sheet of buttered paper; pour in
the cake, and put it into the oven. It must be rather slow, and the cake
not allowed to brown at all. If the oven is properly heated, 1 to 1-1/4
hour will be found long enough to bake it. Let it cool a few minutes,
then with a clean sharp knife cut it into small square pieces, which
should be gently removed to a large flat dish to cool before putting
away. This will keep for several weeks.

_Time_.--1 to 1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SNOW-CAKE.

(_A genuine Scotch Recipe_.)

1778. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. of pounded white sugar,
1/2 lb. of butter, the whites of 6 eggs; flavouring to taste, of essence
of almonds, or vanilla, or lemon.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the sugar and arrowroot
gradually, at the same time beating the mixture. Whisk the whites of the
eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the other ingredients, and beat well
for 20 minutes. Put in whichever of the above flavourings may be
preferred; pour the cake into a buttered mould or tin and bake it in a
moderate oven from 1 to 1-1/2 hour.

_Time_.--1 to 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, with the best Bermuda arrowroot, 4s. 6d.; with St.
Vincent ditto, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to make a moderate-sized cake. _Seasonable_ at any time.


SCRAP-CAKES.

1779. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of leaf, or the inside fat of a pig; 1-1/2
lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 oz. of
candied lemon-peel, ground allspice to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the leaf, or flead, as it is sometimes called, into small
pieces; put it into a large dish, which place in a quick oven; be
careful that it does not burn, and in a short time it will be reduced to
oil, with the small pieces of leaf floating on the surface; and it is of
these that the cakes should be made. Gather all the scraps together, put
them into a basin with the flour, and rub them well together. Add the
currants, sugar, candied peel, cut into thin slices, and the ground
allspice. When all these ingredients are well mixed, moisten with
sufficient cold water to make the whole into a nice paste; roll it out
thin, cut it into shapes, and bake the cakes in a quick oven from 15 to
20 minutes. These are very economical and wholesome cakes for children,
and the lard, melted at home, produced from the flead, is generally
better than that you purchase. To prevent the lard from burning, and to
insure its being a good colour, it is better to melt it in a jar placed
in a saucepan of boiling water; by doing it in this manner, there will
be no chance of its discolouring.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes.

_Sufficient_ to make 3 or 4 dozen cakes.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

[Illustration: WHEAT.]

    Wheat is liable to several diseases, which affect the flour made
    from it, and render it unfit for good bread. The principal of
    these are the blight, mildew, and smut, which are occasioned by
    microscopic fungi, which sow themselves and grow upon the stems
    and ears, destroying the nutritive principles, and introducing
    matter of a deleterious kind. The farmer is at the utmost pains
    to keep away these intruders. Wheat, as well as all kinds of
    corn, is also very liable to be injured by being stacked before
    it is quite dry; in which case it will heat, and become musty in
    the ricks. In wet harvests it is sometimes impossible to get it
    sufficiently dried, and a great deal of corn is thus often
    spoiled. It is generally reckoned that the sweetest bread is
    made from wheat threshed out before it is stacked; which shows
    the importance of studying the best modes of preserving it.

    The erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn:
    some say it is Egypt, others Tartary; and the learned Bailly, as
    well as the traveller Pallas, affirms that it grows
    spontaneously in Siberia. Be that as it may, the Phocians
    brought it to Marseilles before the Romans had penetrated into
    Gaul. The Gauls ate the corn cooked or bruised in a mortar: they
    did not know, for a long time, how to make fermented bread.

SCOTCH SHORTBREAD.

1780. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of pounded
loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, a few
strips of candied orange-peel.

[Illustration: SHORTBREAD.]

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, gradually dredge in the flour, and
add the sugar, caraway seeds, and sweet almonds, which should be
blanched and cut into small pieces. Work the paste until it is quite
smooth, and divide it into six pieces. Put each cake on a separate piece
of paper, roll the paste out square to the thickness of about an inch,
and pinch it upon all sides. Prick it well, and ornament with one or two
strips of candied orange-peel. Put the cakes into a good oven, and bake
them from 25 to 30 minutes.

_Time_.--25 to 30 minutes.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s.

_Sufficient_ to make 6 cakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Where the flavour of the caraway seeds is disliked, omit them,
and add rather a larger proportion of candied peel.


SODA-CAKE.

1781. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of
currants, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 1 teacupful of milk, 3 eggs, 1
teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour, add the currants and sugar, and
mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs well, stir them to
the flour, &c., with the milk, in which the soda should be previously
dissolved, and beat the whole up together with a wooden spoon or beater.
Divide the dough into two pieces, put them into buttered moulds or
cake-tins, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour. The mixture
must be extremely well beaten up, and not allowed to stand after the
soda is added to it, but must be placed in the oven immediately. Great
care must also be taken that the cakes are quite done through, which may
be ascertained by thrusting a knife into the middle of them: if the
blade looks bright when withdrawn, they are done. If the tops acquire
too much colour before the inside is sufficiently baked, cover them over
with a piece of clean white paper, to prevent them from burning.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 small cakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SAVOY CAKE.

1782. INGREDIENTS.--The weight of 4 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, the
weight of 7 in flour, a little grated lemon-rind, or essence of almonds,
or orange-flower water.

_Mode_.--Break the 7 eggs, putting the yolks into one basin and the
whites into another. Whisk the former, and mix with them the sugar, the
grated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring to taste; beat them well
together, and add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a froth. Put in the
flour by degrees, continuing to beat the mixture for 1/4 hour, butter a
mould, pour in the cake, and bake it from 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. This is a
very nice cake for dessert, and may be iced for a supper-table, or cut
into slices and spread with jam, which converts it into sandwiches.

_Time_.--1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 1 cake.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


SPONGE-CAKE.

I.

[Illustration: SPONGE-CAKE.]

1783. INGREDIENTS.--The weight of 8 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, the
weight of 5 in flour, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Put the eggs into one side of the scale, and take the weight of
8 in pounded loaf sugar, and the weight of 5 in good _dry_ flour.
Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former, put
them into a saucepan with the sugar, and let them remain over the fire
until _milk-warm,_ keeping them well stirred. Then put them into a
basin, add the grated lemon-rind mixed with the brandy, and stir these
well together, dredging in the flour very gradually. Whisk the whites of
the eggs to a very stiff froth, stir them to the flour, &c., and beat
the cake well for 1/4 hour. Put it into a buttered mould strewn with a
little fine sifted sugar, and bake the cake in a quick oven for 1-1/2
hour. Care must be taken that it is put into the oven immediately, or it
will not be light. The flavouring of this cake may be varied by adding a
few drops of essence of almonds instead of the grated lemon-rind.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 cake.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: EGYPTIAN WHEAT.]

    The Egyptian, or Mummy Wheat, is not grown to any great extent,
    owing to its inferior quality; but it is notable for its large
    produce, and is often cultivated on allotment grounds and on
    small farms, where quantity rather than quality is desired. At
    Wix, in Essex, the seed of this wheat has produced, without
    artificial assistance, four thousandfold; some of the ears have
    had eleven offshoots, and have contained, altogether, eleven
    grains in one ear.

II.

1784. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, not quite 1/4 pint of water,
5 eggs, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together until they form a thick
syrup; let it cool a little, then pour it to the eggs, which should be
previously well whisked; and after the eggs and syrup are mixed
together, continue beating them for a few minutes. Grate the lemon-rind,
mix the carbonate of soda with the flour, and stir these lightly to the
other ingredients; then add the lemon-juice, and, when the whole is
thoroughly mixed, pour it into a buttered mould, and bake in rather a
quick oven for rather more than 1 hour. The remains of sponge or Savoy
cakes answer very well for trifles, light puddings, &c.; and a very
stale one (if not mouldy) makes an excellent tipsy-cake.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ to make 1 cake.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE SMALL SPONGE-CAKES.

1785. INGREDIENTS.--The weight of 5 eggs in flour, the weight of 8 in
pounded loaf sugar; flavouring to taste.

_Mode_.--Let the flour be perfectly dry, and the sugar well pounded and
sifted. Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, and beat the
latter up with the sugar; then whisk the whites until they become rather
stiff, and mix them with the yolks, but do not stir them more than is
just necessary to mingle the ingredients well together. Dredge in the
flour by degrees, add the flavouring; batter the tins well, pour in the
batter, sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake them in rather a
quick oven, but do not allow them to take too much colour, as they
should be rather pale. Remove them from the tins before they get cold,
and turn them on their faces, where let them remain until quite cold,
when store them away in a closed tin canister or wide-mouthed glass
bottle.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes in a quick oven.

_Average cost_, 1d. each.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TEA-CAKES.

1786. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 lb. of
butter or lard, 1 egg, a piece of German yeast the size of a walnut,
warm milk.

_Mode_.--Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin mix
with it the salt, and rub in the butter or lard; then beat the egg well,
stir to it the yeast, and add these to the flour with as much warm milk
as will make the whole into a smooth paste, and knead it well. Let it
rise near the fire, and, when well risen, form it into cakes; place them
on tins, let them rise again for a few minutes before putting them into
the oven, and bake from 1/4 to 1/2 hour in a moderate oven. These are
very nice with a few currants and a little sugar added to the other
ingredients: they should be put in after the butter is rubbed in. These
cakes should be buttered, and eaten hot as soon as baked; but, when
stale, they are very nice split and toasted; or, if dipped in milk, or
even water, and covered with a basin in the oven till hot, they will be
almost equal to new.

_Time_.--1/4 to 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ to make 8 tea-cakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


TO TOAST TEA-CAKES.

[Illustration: TEA-CAKES.]

1787. Cut each tea-cake into three or four slices, according to its
thickness; toast them on both sides before a nice clear fire, and as
each slice is done, spread it with butter on both sides. When a cake is
toasted, pile the slices one on the top of the other, cut them into
quarters, put them on a very hot plate, and send the cakes immediately
to table. As they are wanted, send them in hot, one or two at a time,
as, if allowed to stand, they spoil, unless kept in a muffin-plate over
a basin of boiling water.


A NICE YEAST-CAKE.

1788. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 pint of
milk, 1-1/2 tablespoonful of good yeast, 3 eggs, 3/4 lb. of currants,
1/2 lb. of white moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel.

_Mode_.--Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and shake it round
over a fire until the butter is melted, but do not allow the milk to get
very hot. Put the flour into a basin, stir to it the milk and butter,
the yeast, and eggs, which should be well beaten, and form the whole
into a smooth dough. Let it stand in a warm place, covered with a cloth,
to rise, and, when sufficiently risen, add the currants, sugar, and
candied peel cut into thin slices. When all the ingredients are
thoroughly mixed, line 2 moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered paper,
which should be about six inches higher than the tin; pour in the
mixture, let it stand to rise again for another 1/2 hour, and then bake
the cakes in a brisk oven for about 1-1/2 hour. If the tops of them
become too brown, cover them with paper until they are done through. A
few drops of essence of lemon, or a little grated nutmeg, may be added
when the flavour is liked.

_Time_.--From 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXXVI.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES.

1789. Beverages are innumerable in their variety; but the ordinary
beverages drunk in the British isles, may be divided into three
classes:--1. Beverages of the simplest kind not fermented. 2. Beverages,
consisting of water, containing a considerable quantity of carbonic
acid. 3. Beverages composed partly of fermented liquors. Of the first
class may be mentioned,--water, toast-and-water, barley-water, eau
sucré, lait sucré, cheese and milk whey, milk-and-water, lemonade,
orangeade, sherbet, apple and pear juice, capillaire, vinegar-and-water,
raspberry vinegar and water.

1790. Of the common class of beverages, consisting of water impregnated
with carbonic acid gas, we may name soda-water, single and double,
ordinary effervescing draughts, and ginger-beer.

1791. The beverages composed partly of fermented liquors, are hot spiced
wines, bishop, egg-flip, egg-hot, ale posset, sack posset, punch, and
spirits-and-water.

1792. We will, however, forthwith treat on the most popular of our
beverages, beginning with the one which makes "the cup that cheers but
not inebriates."

1793. The beverage called tea has now become almost a necessary of life.
Previous to the middle of the 17th century it was not used in England,
and it was wholly unknown to the Greeks and Romans. Pepys says, in his
Diary,--"September 25th, 1661.--I sent for a cup of tea (a China drink),
of which I had never drunk before." Two years later it was so rare a
commodity in England, that the English East-India Company bought 2 lbs.
2 oz. of it, as a present for his majesty. In 1666 it was sold in London
for sixty shillings a pound. From that date the consumption has gone on
increasing from 5,000 lbs. to 50,000,000 lbs.

1794. Linnaeus was induced to think that there were two species of
tea-plant, one of which produced the black, and the other the green
teas; but later observations do not confirm this. When the leaves of
black and green tea are expanded by hot water, and examined by the
botanist, though a difference of character is perceived, yet this is not
sufficient to authorize considering them as distinct species. The
tea-tree flourishes best in temperate regions; in China it is
indigenous. The part of China where the best tea is cultivated, is
called by us the "tea country." The cultivation of the plant requires
great care. It is raised chiefly on the sides of hills; and, in order to
increase the quantity and improve the quality of the leaves, the shrub
is pruned, so as not to exceed the height of from two to three feet,
much in the same manner as the vine is treated in France. They pluck the
leaves, one selecting them according to the kinds of tea required; and,
notwithstanding the tediousness of the operation, each labourer is able
to gather from four to ten or fifteen pounds a day. When the trees
attain to six or seven years of age, the produce becomes so inferior
that they are removed to make room for a fresh succession, or they are
cut down to allow of numerous young shoots. Teas of the finest flavour
consist of the youngest leaves; and as these are gathered at four
different periods of the year, the younger the leaves the higher
flavoured the tea, and the scarcer, and consequently the dearer, the
article.

1795. The various names by which teas are sold in the British market are
corruptions of Chinese words. There are about a dozen different kinds;
but the principal are Bohea, Congou, and Souchong, and signify,
respectively, inferior, middling, and superior. Teas are often perfumed
and flavoured with the leaves of different kinds of plants grown on
purpose. Different tea-farms in China produce teas of various qualities,
raised by skilful cultivation on various soils.

1796. Tea, when chemically analyzed, is found to contain woody fibre,
mucilage, a considerable quantity of the astringent principle, or
tannin, a narcotic principle, which is, perhaps, connected with a
peculiar aroma. The tannin is shown by its striking a black colour with
sulphate of iron, and is the cause of the dark stain which is always
formed when tea is spilt upon buff-coloured cottons dyed with iron. A
constituent called _Theine_ has also been discovered in tea, supposed to
be identical with _Caffeine_, one of the constituents of coffee. Liebig
says, "Theine yields, in certain processes of decomposition, a series of
most remarkable products, which have much analogy with those derived
from uric acid in similar circumstances. The infusion of tea differs
from that of coffee, by containing iron and manganese. We have in tea,
of many kinds, a beverage which contains the active constituents of the
most powerful mineral springs, and, however small the amount of iron may
be which we daily take in this form, it cannot be destitute of influence
on the vital processes."

1797. Chinese tea has frequently been adulterated in this country, by
the admixture of the dried leaves of certain plants. The leaves of the
sloe, white thorn, ash, elder, and some others, have been employed for
this purpose; such as the leaves of the speedwell, wild germander, black
currants, syringa, purple-spiked willow-herb, sweet-brier, and
cherry-tree. Some of these are harmless, others are to a certain degree
poisonous; as, for example, are the leaves of all the varieties of the
plum and cherry tribe, to which the sloe belongs. Adulteration by means
of these leaves is by no means a new species of fraud; and several acts
of parliament, from the time of George II., have been passed, specifying
severe penalties against those guilty of the offence, which,
notwithstanding numerous convictions, continues to the present time.

1798. In the purchase of tea, that should be chosen which possesses an
agreeable odour and is as whole as possible, in order that the leaf may
be easily examined. The greatest care should be taken that it has not
been exposed to the air, which destroys its flavour.

1799. It would be impossible, in the space at our command, to enumerate
the various modes adopted in different countries for "making coffee;"
that is, the phrase commonly understood to mean the complete preparation
of this delicious beverage for drinking. For performing this operation,
such recipes or methods as we have found most practical will be inserted
in their proper place; but the following facts connected with coffee
will be found highly interesting.

1800. The introduction of coffee into this country is comparatively of
recent date. We are assured by Bruce that the coffee-tree is a native of
Abyssinia, and it is said to have been cultivated in that country from
time immemorial.

1801. It appears that coffee was first introduced into England by Daniel
Edwards, a Turkey merchant, whose servant, Pasqua, a Greek, understood
the manner of roasting it. This servant, under the patronage of Edwards,
established the first coffee-house in London, in George Yard, Lombard
Street. Coffee was then sold at four or five guineas a pound, and a duty
was soon afterwards laid upon it of fourpence a gallon, when made into a
beverage. In the course of two centuries, however, this berry, unknown
originally as an article of food, except to some savage tribes on the
confines of Abyssinia, has made its way through the whole of the
civilized world. Mahommedans of all ranks drink coffee twice a day; it
is in universal request in France; and the demand for it throughout the
British isles is daily increasing, the more especially since so much
attention has been given to mechanical contrivances for roasting and
grinding the berry and preparing the beverage.

1802. Of the various kinds of coffee the Arabian is considered the best.
It is grown chiefly in the districts of Aden and Mocha; whence the name
of our Mocha coffee. Mocha coffee has a smaller and rounder bean than
any other, and likewise a more agreeable smell and taste. The next in
reputation and quality is the Java and Ceylon coffee, and then the
coffees of Bourbon and Martinique, and that of Berbice, a district of
the colony of British Guiana. The Jamaica and St. Domingo coffees are
less esteemed.

1803. A considerable change takes place in the arrangement of the
constituents of coffee by the application of heat in roasting it.
Independently of one of the objects of roasting, namely, that of
destroying its toughness and rendering it easily ground, its tannin and
other principles are rendered partly soluble in water; and it is to the
tannin that the brown colour of the decoction of coffee is owing. An
aromatic flavour is likewise developed during torrefaction, which is not
perceived in the raw berry, and which is not produced in the greatest
perfection until the heat has arrived at a certain degree of
temperature; but, if the heat be increased beyond this, the flavour is
again dissipated, and little remains but a bitter and astringent matter
with carbon.

1804. The roasting of coffee in the best manner requires great nicety,
and much of the qualities of the beverage depends upon the operation.
The roasting of coffee for the dealers in London and Paris has now
become a separate branch of business, and some of the roasters perform
the operation on a great scale, with considerable skill. Roasted coffee
loses from 20 to 30 per cent, by sufficient roasting, and the powder
suffers much by exposure to the air; but, while raw, it not only does
not lose its flavour for a year or two, but improves by keeping. If a
cup of the best coffee be placed upon a table boiling hot, it will fill
the room with its fragrance; but the coffee, when warmed again after
being cold, will be found to have lost most of its flavour.

1805. To have coffee in perfection, it should be roasted and ground just
before it is used, and more should not be ground at a time than is
wanted for immediate use, or, if it be necessary to grind more, it
should be kept closed from the air. Coffee readily imbibes exhalations
from other substances, and thus often acquires a bad flavour: brown
sugar placed near it will communicate a disagreeable flavour. It is
stated that the coffee in the West Indies has often been injured by
being laid in rooms near the sugar-works, or where rum is distilled; and
the same effect has been produced by bringing over coffee in the same
ships with rum and sugar. Dr. Moseley mentions that a few bags of
pepper, on board a ship from India, spoiled a whole cargo of coffee.

1806. With respect to the quantity of coffee used in making the
decoction, much depends upon the taste of the consumer. The greatest and
most common fault in English coffee is the too small quantity of the
ingredient. Count Rumford says that to make good coffee for drinking
after dinner, a pound of good Mocha coffee, which, when roasted and
ground, weighs only thirteen ounces, serves to make fifty-six full cups,
or a little less than a quarter of an ounce to a coffee-cup of moderate
size.




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXXVII.


TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.

1807. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 1/2 oz. of chocolate to each person; to every
oz. allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of milk.

_Mode_.--Make the milk-and-water hot; scrape the chocolate into it, and
stir the mixture constantly and quickly until the chocolate is
dissolved; bring it to the boiling-point, stir it well, and serve
directly with white sugar. Chocolate prepared with in a mill, as shown
in the engraving, is made by putting in the scraped chocolate, pouring
over it the boiling milk-and-water, and milling it over the fire until
hot and frothy.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 oz. of cake chocolate to each person.

[Illustration: MILL.]

    CHOCOLATE AND COCOA.--Both these preparations are made from the
    seeds or beans of the cacao-tree, which grows in the West Indies
    and South America. The Spanish, and the proper name, is cacao,
    not cocoa, as it is generally spelt. From this mistake, the tree
    from which the beverage is procured has been often confounded
    with the palm that produces the edible cocoa-nuts, which are the
    produce of the cocoa-tree (_Cocos nucifera_), whereas the tree
    from which chocolate is procured is very different (the
    _Theobroma cacao_). The cocoa-tree was cultivated by the
    aboriginal inhabitants of South America, particularly in Mexico,
    where, according to Humboldt, it was reared by Montezuma. It was
    transplanted thence into other dependencies of the Spanish
    monarchy in 1520; and it was so highly esteemed by Linnaeus
    receive from him the name now conferred upon it, of Theobroma, a
    term derived from the Greek, and signifying "_food for gods_."
    Chocolate has always been a favourite beverage among the
    Spaniards and Creoles, and was considered here as a great luxury
    when first introduced, after the discovery of America; but the
    high duties laid upon it, confined it long almost entirely to
    the wealthier classes. Before it was subjected to duty, Mr.
    Bryan Edwards stated that cocoa plantations were numerous in
    Jamaica, but that the duty caused their almost entire ruin. The
    removal of this duty has increased their cultivation. (For
    engraving of cocoa-bean, _see_ No. 1816.)

TO MAKE ESSENCE OF COFFEE.

1808. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1/4 lb. of ground coffee allow 1 small
teaspoonful of powdered chicory, 3 small teacupfuls, or 1 pint, of
water.

_Mode_.--Let the coffee be freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly
roasted; put it into a percolater, or filter, with the chicory, and pour
_slowly_ over it the above proportion of boiling water. When it has all
filtered through, warm the coffee sufficiently to bring it to the
simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil; then filter it a second
time, put it into a clean and dry bottle, cork it well, and it will
remain good for several days. Two tablespoonfuls of this essence are
quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk. This essence will
be found particularly useful to those persons who have to rise extremely
early; and having only the milk to make boiling, is very easily and
quickly prepared. When the essence is bottled, pour another 3
tea-cupfuls of _boiling_ water slowly on the grounds, which, when
filtered through, will be a very weak coffee. The next time there is
essence to be prepared, make this weak coffee boiling, and pour it on
the ground coffee instead of plain water: by this means a better coffee
will be obtained. Never throw away the grounds without having made use
of them in this manner; and always cork the bottle well that contains
this preparation, until the day that it is wanted for making the fresh
essence.

_Time_.--To be filtered once, then brought to the boiling-point, and
filtered again.

_Average cost_, with coffee at 1s. 8d. per lb., 6d.

_Sufficient'_-Allow 2 tablespoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk.


TO ROAST COFFEE.

(_A French Recipe_.)

1809. It being an acknowledged fact that French coffee is decidedly
superior to that made in England, and as the roasting of the berry is of
great importance to the flavour of the preparation, it will be useful
and interesting to know how they manage these things in France. In
Paris, there are two houses justly celebrated for the flavour of their
coffee,--_La Maison Corcellet_ and _La Maison Royer de Chartres_; and to
obtain this flavour, before roasting they add to every 3 lbs. of coffee
a piece of butter the size of a nut, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered
sugar: it is then roasted in the usual manner. The addition of the
butter and sugar develops the flavour and aroma of the berry; but it
must be borne in mind, that the quality of the butter must be of the
very best description.


TO MAKE COFFEE.

1810. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 4 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of ground coffee to
each person; to every oz. of coffee allow 1/3 pint of water.

_Mode_.--To make coffee good, _it should never be boiled_, but the
boiling water merely poured on it, the same as for tea. The coffee
should always be purchased in the berry,--if possible, freshly roasted;
and it should never be ground long before it is wanted for use. There
are very many new kinds of coffee-pots, but the method of making the
coffee is nearly always the same; namely, pouring the boiling water on
the powder, and allowing it to filter through. Our illustration shows
one of Loysel's Hydrostatic Urns, which are admirably adapted for making
good and clear coffee, which should be made in the following,
manner:--Warm the urn with boiling water, remove the lid and movable
filter, and place the ground coffee at the bottom of the urn. Put the
movable filter over this, and screw the lid, inverted, tightly on the
end of the centre pipe. Pour into the inverted lid the above proportion
of boiling water, and when all the water so poured has disappeared from
the funnel, and made its way down the centre pipe and up again through
the ground coffee by _hydrostatic pressure_, unscrew screw the lid and
cover the urn. Pour back direct into the urn, _not through the funnel_,
one, two, or three cups, according to the size of the percolater, in
order to make the infusion of uniform strength; the contents will then
be ready for use, and should run from the tap strong, hot, and clear.
The coffee made in these urns generally turns out very good, and there
is but one objection to them,--the coffee runs rather slowly from the
tap. This is of no consequence where there is a small party, but tedious
where there are many persons to provide for. A remedy for this objection
may be suggested; namely, to make the coffee very strong, so that not
more than 1/3 of a cup would be required, as the rest would be filled up
with milk. Making coffee in filters or percolaters does away with the
necessity of using isinglass, white of egg, and various other
preparations to clear it. Coffee should always be served very hot, and,
if possible, in the same vessel in which it is made, as pouring it from
one pot to another cools, and consequently spoils it. Many persons may
think that the proportion of water we have given for each oz. of coffee
is rather small; it is so, and the coffee produced from it will be very
strong; 1/3 of a cup will be found quite sufficient, which should be
filled with nice hot milk, or milk and cream mixed. This is the 'cafe au
lait' for which our neighbours over the Channel are so justly
celebrated. Should the ordinary method of making coffee be preferred,
use double the quantity of water, and, in pouring it into the cups, put
in more coffee and less milk.

[Illustration: LOYSEL'S HYDROSTATIC URN.]

_Sufficient_.--For very good coffee, allow 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoonful,
to each person.


A VERY SIMPLE METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE.

1811. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of coffee to each
person; to every oz. allow 1 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coffee-pot
inside, and to this ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin for the
purpose must not be too thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour some
boiling water in it, and, when the pot is well warmed, put the ground
coffee into the bag; pour over as much boiling water as is required,
close the lid, and, when all the water has filtered through, remove the
bag, and send the coffee to table. Making it in this manner prevents the
necessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another, which cools
and spoils it. The water should be poured on the coffee gradually, so
that the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be well made, that
none of the grounds may escape through the seams, and so make the coffee
thick and muddy.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 tablespoonful, or 1/2 oz., to each person.

[Illustration: COFFEE.]

    THE COFFEE PLANT grows to the height of about twelve or fifteen
    feet, with leaves not unlike those of the common laurel,
    although more pointed, and not so dry and thick. The blossoms
    are white, much like those of jasmine, and issue from the angles
    of the leaf-stalks. When the flowers fade, they are succeeded by
    the coffee-bean, or seed, which is inclosed in a berry of a red
    colour, when ripe resembling a cherry. The coffee-beans are
    prepared by exposing them to the sun for a few days, that the
    pulp may ferment and throw off a strong acidulous moisture. They
    are then gradually dried for about three weeks, and put into a
    mill to separate the husk from the seed.

CAFE AU LAIT.

1812. This is merely very strong coffee added to a large proportion of
good hot milk; about 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee being quite
sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of milk. Of the essence No. 1808,
which answers admirably for 'cafe an lait', so much would not be
required. This preparation is infinitely superior to the weak watery
coffee so often served at English tables. A little cream mixed with the
milk, if the latter cannot be depended on for richness, improves the
taste of the coffee, as also the richness of the beverage.

_Sufficient_.--6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoonfuls of
the essence, to a breakfast-cupful of milk.

    TEA AND COFFEE.--It is true, says Liebig, that thousands have
    lived without a knowledge of tea and coffee; and daily
    experience teaches us that, under certain circumstances, they
    may be dispensed with without disadvantage to the merely animal
    functions; but it is an error, certainly, to conclude from this
    that they may be altogether dispensed with in reference to their
    effects; and it is a question whether, if we had no tea and no
    coffee, the popular instinct would not seek for and discover the
    means of replacing them. Science, which accuses us of so much in
    these respects, will have, in the first place, to ascertain
    whether it depends on sensual and sinful inclinations merely,
    that every people of the globe have appropriated some such means
    of acting on the nervous life, from the shore of the Pacific,
    where the Indian retires from life for days in order to enjoy
    the bliss of intoxication with koko, to the Arctic regions,
    where Kamtschatdales and Koriakes prepare an intoxicating
    beverage from a poisonous mushroom. We think it, on the
    contrary, highly probable, not to say certain, that the instinct
    of man, feeling certain blanks, certain wants of the intensified
    life of our times, which cannot be satisfied or filled up by
    mere quantity, has discovered, in these products of vegetable
    life the true means of giving to his food the desired and
    necessary quality.

CAFE NOIR.

1813. This is usually handed round after dinner, and should be drunk
well sweetened, with the addition of a little brandy or liqueurs, which
may be added or not at pleasure. The coffee should be made very strong,
and served in very small cups, but never mixed with milk or cream. Cafe
noir may be made of the essence of coffee No. 1808, by pouring a
tablespoonful into each cup, and filling it up with boiling water. This
is a very simple and expeditious manner of preparing coffee for a large
party, but the essence for it must be made very good, and kept well
corked until required for use.


TO MAKE TEA.

1814. There is very little art in making good tea; if the water is
boiling, and there is no sparing of the fragrant leaf, the beverage will
almost invariably be good. The old-fashioned plan of allowing a
teaspoonful to each person, and one over, is still practised. Warm the
teapot with boiling water; let it remain for two or three minutes for
the vessel to become thoroughly hot, then pour it away. Put in the tea,
pour in from 1/2 to 3/4 pint of boiling water, close the lid, and let it
stand for the tea to draw from 5 to 10 minutes; then fill up the pot
with water. The tea will be quite spoiled unless made with water that is
actually 'boiling', as the leaves will not open, and the flavour not be
extracted from them; the beverage will consequently be colourless and
tasteless,--in fact, nothing but tepid water. Where there is a very
large party to make tea for, it is a good plan to have two teapots
instead of putting a large quantity of tea into one pot; the tea,
besides, will go farther. When the infusion has been once completed, the
addition of fresh tea adds very little to the strength; so, when more is
required, have the pot emptied of the old leaves, scalded, and fresh tea
made in the usual manner. Economists say that a few grains of carbonate
of soda, added before the boiling water is poured on the tea, assist to
draw out the goodness: if the water is very hard, perhaps it is a good
plan, as the soda softens it; but care must be taken to use this
ingredient sparingly, as it is liable to give the tea a soapy taste if
added in too large a quantity. For mixed tea, the usual proportion is
four spoonfuls of black to one of green; more of the latter when the
flavour is very much liked; but strong green tea is highly pernicious,
and should never be partaken of too freely.

_Time_.--2 minutes to warm the teapot, 5 to 10 minutes to draw the
strength from the tea.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 teaspoonful to each person, and one over.

    TEA.--The tea-tree or shrub belongs to the class and order of
    Monadelphia polyandria in the Linnaean system, and to the
    natural order of Aurantiaceae in the system of Jussieu. Lately
    it has been made into a new order, the Theasia, which includes
    the Camellia and some other plants. It commonly grows to the
    height of from three to six feet; but it is said, that, in its
    wild or native state, it reaches twenty feet or more. In China
    it is cultivated in numerous small plantations. In its general
    appearance, and the form of its leaf, it resembles the myrtle.
    The blossoms are white and fragrant, not unlike those of the
    wild rose, but smaller; and they are succeeded by soft green
    capsules, containing each from one to three white seeds. These
    capsules are crushed for oil, which is in general use in China.

[Illustration: TEA.]

AN EXCELLENT SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM IN TEA OR COFFEE.

1815. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 1 new-laid egg to every large breakfast-cupful
of tea or coffee.

_Mode_.--Beat up the whole of the egg in a basin, put it into a cup (or
a portion of it, if the cup be small), and pour over it the tea or
coffee very hot. These should be added very gradually, and stirred all
the time, to prevent the egg from curdling. In point of nourishment,
both these beverages are much improved by this addition.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or
coffee.


TO MAKE COCOA.

1816. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of the prepared cocoa to 1
breakfast-cup; boiling milk and boiling water.

[Illustration: COCOA-BEAN.]

_Mode_.--Put the cocoa into a breakfast-cup, pour over it sufficient
cold milk to make it into a smooth paste; then add equal quantities of
boiling milk and boiling water, and stir all well together. Care must be
taken not to allow the milk to get burnt, as it will entirely spoil the
flavour of the preparation. The above directions are usually given for
making the prepared cocoa. The rock cocoa, or that bought in a solid
piece, should be scraped, and made in the same manner, taking care to
rub down all the lumps before the boiling liquid is added.

_Sufficient_--2 teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa for 1 breakfast-cup, or
1/4 oz. of the rock cocoa for the same quantity.


COWSLIP WINE.

1817. INGREDIENTS.--To every gallon of water allow 3 lbs. of lump sugar,
the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, the rind and juice of 1 Seville
orange, 1 gallon of cowslip pips. To every 4-1/2 gallons of wine allow 1
bottle of brandy.

_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for 1/2 hour, carefully
removing all the scum as it rises. Pour this boiling liquor on the
orange and lemon-rinds, and the juice, which should be strained; when
milk-warm, add the cowslip pips or flowers, picked from the stalks and
seeds; and to 9 gallons of wine 3 tablespoonfuls of good fresh brewers'
yeast. Let it ferment 3 or 4 days; then put all together in a cask with
the brandy, and let it remain for 2 months, when bottle it off for use.

_Time_.--To be boiled 1/2 hour; to ferment 3 or 4 days; to remain in the
cask 2 months.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cowslips, which may be picked in the
fields, 2s. 9d. per gallon.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in April or May.


ELDER WINE.

1818. INGREDIENTS.--To every 3 gallons of water allow 1 peck of
elderberries; to every gallon of juice allow 3 lbs. of sugar, 1/2 oz. of
ground ginger, 6 cloves, 1 lb. of good Turkey raisins; 1/2 pint of
brandy to every gallon of wine. To every 9 gallons of wine 3 or 4
tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast.

_Mode_.--Pour the water, quite boiling, on the elderberries, which
should be picked from the stalks, and let these stand covered for 24
hours; then strain the whole through a sieve or bag, breaking the fruit
to express all the juice from it. Measure the liquor, and to every
gallon allow the above proportion of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar
with the ginger, cloves, and raisins for 1 hour, skimming the liquor the
whole time; let it stand until milk-warm, then put it into a clean dry
cask, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of good fresh yeast to every 9 gallons
of wine. Let it ferment for about a fortnight; then add the brandy, bung
up the cask, and let it stand some months before it is bottled, when it
will be found excellent. A bunch of hops suspended to a string from the
bung, some persons say, will preserve the wine good for several years.
Elder wine is usually mulled, and served with sippets of toasted bread
and a little grated nutmeg.

_Time_.--To stand covered 24 hours; to be boiled 1 hour.

_Average cost_, when made at home, 3s. 6d. per gallon.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in September.

[Illustration: ELDER-BERRIES.]

    ELDER-BERRY WINE.--The elder-berry is well adapted for the
    production of wine; its juice contains a considerable portion of
    the principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its
    beautiful colour communicates a rich tint to the wine made from
    it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and therefore
    demands an addition of sugar. It is one of the very best of the
    genuine old English wines; and a cup of it mulled, just previous
    to retiring to bed on a winter night, is a thing to be "run
    for," as Cobbett would say: it is not, however, agreeable to
    every taste.

GINGER WINE.

1819. INGREDIENTS.--To 9 gallons of water allow 27 lbs. of loaf sugar, 9
lemons, 12 oz. of bruised ginger, 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 lbs. of
raisins stoned and chopped, 1 pint of brandy.

_Mode_.--Boil together for 1 hour in a copper (let it previously be well
scoured and beautifully clean) the water, sugar, _lemon-rinds_, and
bruised ginger; remove every particle of scum as it rises, and when the
liquor is sufficiently boiled, put it into a large tub or pan, as it
must not remain in the copper. When nearly cold, add the yeast, which
must be thick and very fresh, and, the next day, put all in a dry cask
with the strained lemon-juice and chopped raisins. Stir the wine every
day for a fortnight; then add the brandy, stop the cask down by degrees,
and in a few weeks it will be fit to bottle.

_Average cost_, 2s. per gallon. _Sufficient_ to make 9 gallons of wine.

_Seasonable_.--The best time for making this wine is either in March or
September.

_Note_.--Wine made early in March will be fit to bottle in June.


GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR.

(_An Excellent Recipe_.)

1820. INGREDIENTS.--2 pecks of crystal gooseberries, 6 gallons of water,
12 lbs. of foots sugar of the coarsest brown quality.

_Mode_.--Mash the gooseberries (which should be quite ripe) in a tub
with a mallet; put to them the water nearly milk-warm; let this stand 24
hours; then strain it through a sieve, and put the sugar to it; mix it
well, and tun it. These proportions are for a 9-gallon cask; and if it
be not quite full, more water must be added. Let the mixture be stirred
from the bottom of the cask two or three times daily for three or four
days, to assist the melting of the sugar; then paste a piece of linen
cloth over the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm place, _but not in
the sun_; any corner of a warm kitchen is the best situation for it. The
following spring it should be drawn off into stone bottles, and the
vinegar will be fit for use twelve months after it is made. This will be
found a most excellent preparation, greatly superior to much that is
sold under the name of the best white wine vinegar. Many years'
experience has proved that pickle made with this vinegar will keep, when
bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients. The cost per gallon is
merely nominal, especially to those who reside in the country and grow
their own gooseberries; the coarse sugar is then the only ingredient to
be purchased.

_Time_.--To remain in the cask 9 months.

_Average cost_, when the gooseberries have to be purchased, 1s. per
gallon; when they are grown at home, 6d. per gallon.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made the end of June or the beginning of
July, when gooseberries are ripe and plentiful.


EFFERVESCING GOOSEBERRY WINE.

1821. INGREDIENTS.--To every gallon of water allow 6 lbs. of green
gooseberries, 3 lbs. of lump sugar.

_Mode_.--This wine should be prepared from unripe gooseberries, in order
to avoid the flavour which the fruit would give to the wine when in a
mature state. Its briskness depends more upon the time of bottling than
upon the unripe state of the fruit, for effervescing wine can be made
from fruit that is ripe as well as that which is unripe. The fruit
should be selected when it has nearly attained its full growth, and
consequently before it shows any tendency to ripen. Any bruised or
decayed berries, and those that are very small, should be rejected. The
blossom and stalk ends should be removed, and the fruit well bruised in
a tub or pan, in such quantities as to insure each berry being broken
without crushing the seeds. Pour the water (which should be warm) on the
fruit, squeeze and stir it with the hand until all the pulp is removed
from the skin and seeds, and cover the whole closely for 24 hours; after
which, strain it through a coarse bag, and press it with as much force
as can be conveniently applied, to extract the whole of the juice and
liquor the fruit may contain. To every 40 or 50 lbs. of fruit one gallon
more of hot water may be passed through the marc, or husks, in order to
obtain any soluble matter that may remain, and be again pressed. The
juice should be put into a tub or pan of sufficient size to contain all
of it, and the sugar added to it. Let it be well stirred until the sugar
is dissolved, and place the pan in a warm situation; keep it closely
covered, and let it ferment for a day or two. It must then be drawn off
into clean casks, placed a little on one side for the scum that arises
to be thrown out, and the casks kept filled with the remaining "must,"
that should be reserved for that purpose. When the active fermentation
has ceased, the casks should be plugged upright, again filled, if
necessary, the bungs be put in loosely, and, after a few days, when the
fermentation is a little more languid (which may be known, by the
hissing noise ceasing), the bungs should be driven in tight, and a
spile-hole made, to give vent if necessary. About November or December,
on a clear fine day, the wine should he racked from its lees into clean
casks, which may be rinsed with brandy. After a month, it should be
examined to see if it is sufficiently clear for bottling; if not, it
must be fined with isinglass, which may be dissolved in some of the
wine: 1 oz. will be sufficient for 9 gallons. In March or April, or when
the gooseberry bushes begin to blossom, the wine must be bottled, in
order to insure its being effervescing.

_Seasonable_.--Make this the end of May or beginning of June, before the
berries ripen.


LEMON SYRUP.

1822. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of water, 1 oz. of
citric acid, 12 drachm of essence of lemon.

_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for 1/4 hour, and put it into
a basin, where let it remain till cold. Beat the citric acid to a
powder, mix the essence of lemon with it, then add these two ingredients
to the syrup; mix well, and bottle for use. Two tablespoonfuls of the
syrup are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water, and will be found a
very refreshing summer drink.

_Sufficient_--2 tablespoonfuls of syrup to a tumbler-ful of cold water.


LEMON WINE.

1823. INGREDIENTS.--To 4-1/2 gallons of water allow the pulp of 50
lemons, the rind of 25, 16 lbs. of loaf sugar,--1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1
bottle of brandy.

_Mode_.--Peel and slice the lemons, but use only the rind of 25 of them,
and put them into the cold water. Let it stand 8 or 9 days, squeezing
the lemons well every day; then strain the water off and put it into a
cask with the sugar. Let it work some time, and when it has ceased
working, put in the isinglass. Stop the cask down; in about six months
put in the brandy and bottle the wine off.

_Seasonable_.--The best time to make this is in January or February,
when lemons are best and cheapest.


MALT WINE.

1824. INGREDIENTS.--5 gallons of water, 28 lbs. of sugar, 6 quarts of
sweet-wort, 6 quarts of tun, 3 lbs. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of candy, 1 pint
of brandy.

_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; skim it well,
and put the liquor into a convenient-sized pan or tub. Allow it to cool;
then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun. Let it stand for 3 days, then
put it into a barrel; here it will work or ferment for another three
days or more; then bung up the cask, and keep it undisturbed for 2 or 3
months. After this, add the raisins (whole), the candy, and brandy, and,
in 6 months' time, bottle the wine off. Those who do not brew, may
procure the sweet-wort and tun from any brewer. Sweet-wort is the liquor
that leaves the mash of malt before it is boiled with the hops; tun is
the new beer after the whole of the brewing operation has been
completed.

_Time_.--To be boiled 10 minutes; to stand 3 days after mixing; to
ferment 3 days; to remain in the cask 2 mouths before the raisins are
added; bottle 6 months after.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in March or October.


HOME-MADE NOYEAU.

1825. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of bitter almonds, 1 oz. of sweet ditto, 1 lb.
of loaf sugar, the rinds of 3 lemons, 1 quart of Irish whiskey or gin, 1
tablespoonful of clarified honey, 4 pint of new milk.

_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds, and mix with them the sugar,
which should also be pounded. Boil the milk; let it stand till quite
cold; then mix all the ingredients together, and let them remain for 10
days, shaking them every day. Filter the mixture through blotting-paper,
bottle off for use in small bottles, and seal the corks down. This will
be found useful for flavouring many sweet dishes.

_Average cost_, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to make about 24 pints of Noyeau.

_Seasonable_.--May be made at any time.


ORANGE BRANDY.

(_Excellent_.)

1826. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1 gallon of brandy allow 3/4 pint of
Seville orange-juice, 1-1/4 lb. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--To bring out the full flavour of the orange-peel, rub a few
lumps of the sugar on 2 or 3 unpared oranges, and put these lumps to the
rest. Mix the brandy with the orange-juice, strained, the rinds of 6 of
the oranges pared very thin, and the sugar. Let all stand in a
closely-covered jar for about 3 days, stirring it 3 or 4 times a day.
When clear, it should be bottled and closely corked for a year; it will
then be ready for use, but will keep any length of time. This is a most
excellent stomachic when taken pure in small quantities; or, as the
strength of the brandy is very little deteriorated by the other
ingredients, it may be diluted with water.

_Time_.--To be stirred every day for 3 days.

_Average cost_, 7s.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 quarts. _Seasonable_.--Make this in March.


A VERY SIMPLE AND EASY METHOD OF MAKING A VERY SUPERIOR ORANGE WINE.

1827. INGREDIENTS.--90 Seville oranges, 32 lbs. of lump sugar, water.

_Mode_.--Break up the sugar into small pieces, and put it into a dry,
sweet 9-gallon cask, placed in a cellar or other storehouse, where it is
intended to be kept. Have ready close to the cask two large pans or
wooden keelers, into one of which put the peel of the oranges pared
quite thin, and into the other the pulp after the juice has been
squeezed from it. Strain the juice through a piece of double muslin, and
put it into the cask with the sugar. Then pour about 1-1/2 gallon of
cold spring water on both the peels and pulp; let it stand for 24 hours,
and then strain it into the cask; add more water to the peels and pulp
when this is done, and repeat the same process every day for a week: it
should take about a week to fill up the cask. Be careful to apportion
the quantity as nearly as possible to the seven days, and to stir the
contents of the cask each day. On the ''third' day after the cask is
full,--that is, the 'tenth' day after the commencement of making,--the
cask may be securely bunged down. This is a very simple and easy method,
and the wine made according to it will be pronounced to be most
excellent. There is no troublesome boiling, and all fermentation takes
place in the cask. When the above directions are attended to, the wine
cannot fail to be good. It should be bottled in 8 or 9 months, and will
be fit for use in a twelve month after the time of making. Ginger wine
may be made in precisely the same manner, only, with the 9-gallon cask
for ginger wine, 2 lbs. of the best whole ginger, 'bruised', must be put
with the sugar. It will be found convenient to tie the ginger loosely in
a muslin bag.

_Time_.--Altogether, 10 days to make it.

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. per gallon. _Sufficient_ for 9 gallons.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in March, and bottle it the following January.


RASPBERRY VINEGAR.

1828. INGREDIENTS.--To every 3 pints of the best vinegar allow 4-1/2
pints of freshly-gathered raspberries; to each pint of liquor allow 1
lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 wineglassful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Let the raspberries be freshly gathered; pick them from the
stalks, and put 1-1/2 pint of them into a stone jar; pour 3 pints of the
best vinegar over them, and let them remain for 24 hours; then strain
the liquor over another 1-1/2 pint of fresh raspberries. Let them remain
another 24 hours, and the following day repeat the process for the third
time; then drain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it through a
jelly-bag (previously wetted with plain vinegar), into a stone jar. Add
to every pint of the liquor 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar; stir them
together, and, when the sugar is dissolved, cover the jar; set it upon
the fire in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil for an hour,
removing the scum as fast as it rises; add to each pint a glass of
brandy, bottle it, and seal the corks. This is an excellent drink in
cases of fevers and colds: it should be diluted with cold water,
according to the taste or requirement of the patient.

_Time_.--To be boiled 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. per pint.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 quarts.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in July or August, when raspberries are most
plentiful.


RHUBARB WINE.

1829. INGREDIENTS.--To every 5 lbs. of rhubarb pulp allow 1 gallon of
cold spring water; to every gallon of liquor allow 3 lbs. of loaf sugar,
1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind of 1 lemon.

_Mode_.--Gather the rhubarb about the middle of May; wipe it with a wet
cloth, and, with a mallet, bruise it in a large wooden tub or other
convenient means. When reduced to a pulp, weigh it, and to every 5 lbs.
add 1 gallon of cold spring water; let these remain for 3 days, stirring
3 or 4 times a day; and, on the fourth day, press the pulp through a
hair sieve; put the liquor into a tub, and to every gallon put 3 lbs. of
loaf sugar; stir in the sugar until it is quite dissolved, and add the
lemon-rind; let the liquor remain, and, in 4, 5, or 6 days, the
fermentation will begin to subside, and a crust or head will be formed,
which should be skimmed off, or the liquor drawn from it, when the crust
begins to crack or separate. Put the wine into a cask, and if, after
that, it ferments, rack it off into another cask, and in a fortnight
stop it down. If the wine should have lost any of its original
sweetness, add a little more loaf sugar, taking care that the cask is
full. Bottle it off in February or March, and in the summer it should be
fit to drink. It will improve greatly by keeping; and, should a very
brilliant colour be desired, add a little currant-juice.

_Seasonable_.--Make this about the middle of May.


WELSH NECTAR.

1830. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of raisins, 3 lemons, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2
gallons of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Cut the peel of the lemons very thin, pour upon it the boiling
water, and, when cool, add the strained juice of the lemons, the sugar,
and the raisins, stoned and chopped very fine. Let it stand 4 or 5 days,
stirring it every day; then strain it through a jelly-bag, and bottle it
for present use.

_Time_.--4 or 5 days. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 gallons.


CLARET-CUP.

[Illustration: CLARET CUP.]

1831. INGREDIENTS.--1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of soda-water, about
1/2 lb. of pounded ice, 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 1/4
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 liqueur-glass of Maraschino, a sprig of
green borage.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a silver cup, regulating the
proportion of ice by the state of the weather: if very warm, a larger
quantity would be necessary. Hand the cup round with a clean napkin
passed through one of the handles, that the edge of the cup may be wiped
after each guest has partaken of the contents thereof.

_Seasonable_ in summer.


    CLARETS.--All those wines called in England clarets are the
    produce of the country round Bordeaux, or the Bordelais; but it
    is remarkable that there is no pure wine in France known by the
    name of claret, which is a corruption of _clairet_, a term that
    is applied there to any red or rose-coloured wine. Round
    Bordeaux are produced a number of wines of the first quality,
    which pass under the name simply of _vins de Bordeaux_, or have
    the designation of the particular district where they are made;
    as Lafitte, Latour, &c. The clarets brought to the English
    market are frequently prepared for it by the wine-growers by
    mixing together several Bordeaux wines, or by adding to them a
    portion of some other wines; but in France the pure wines are
    carefully preserved distinct. The genuine wines of Bordeaux are
    of great variety, that part being one of the most distinguished
    in France; and the principal vineyards are those of Medoc,
    Palus, Graves, and Blanche, the product of each having
    characters considerably different.

CHAMPAGNE-CUP.

1832. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart bottle of champagne, 2 bottles of
soda-water, 1 liqueur-glass of brandy or Curaçoa, 2 tablespoonfuls of
powdered sugar, 1 lb. of pounded ice, a sprig of green borage.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a silver cup; stir them together,
and serve the same as claret-cup No. 1831. Should the above proportion
of sugar not be found sufficient to suit some tastes, increase the
quantity. When borage is not easily obtainable, substitute for it a few
slices of cucumber-rind.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for pic-nics, balls, weddings, and other festive
occasions.

    CHAMPAGNE.--This, the most celebrated of French wines, is the
    produce chiefly of the province of that name, and is generally
    understood in England to be a brisk, effervescing, or sparkling
    white wine, of a very fine flavour; but this is only one of the
    varieties of this class. There is both red and white champagne,
    and each of these may be either still or brisk. There are the
    sparkling wines (mousseux), and the still wines (non-mousseux).
    The brisk are in general the most highly esteemed, or, at least,
    are the most popular in this country, on account of their
    delicate flavour and the agreeable pungency which they derive
    from the carbonic acid they contain, and to which they owe their
    briskness.

GINGER BEER.

1833. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of bruised
ginger, 1 oz. of cream of tartar, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 3
gallons of boiling water, 2 large tablespoonfuls of thick and fresh
brewer's yeast.

_Mode_.--Peel the lemons, squeeze the juice, strain it, and put the peel
and juice into a large earthen pan, with the bruised ginger, cream of
tartar, and loaf sugar. Pour over these ingredients 3 gallons of boiling
water; let it stand until just warm, when add the yeast, which should be
thick and perfectly fresh. Stir the contents of the pan well, and let
them remain near the fire all night, covering the pan over with a cloth.
The next day skim off the yeast, and pour the liquor carefully into
another vessel, leaving the sediment; then bottle immediately, and tie
the corks down, and in 3 days the ginger beer will be fit for use. For
some tastes, the above proportion of sugar may be found rather too
large, when it may be diminished; but the beer will not keep so long
good.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s.; or 1/2d. per bottle.

_Sufficient_ to fill 4 dozen ginger-beer bottles.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made during the summer months.


LEMONADE.

1834. INGREDIENTS--The rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 3 large or 4 small
ones, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 quart of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Rub some of the sugar, in lumps, on 2 of the lemons until they
have imbibed all the oil from them, and put it with the remainder of the
sugar into a jug; add the lemon-juice (but no pips), and pour over the
whole a quart of boiling water. When the sugar is dissolved, strain the
lemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin, and, when cool, it
will be ready for use. The lemonade will be much improved by having the
white of an egg beaten up in it; a little sherry mixed with it, also,
makes this beverage much nicer.

_Average cost_, 6d. per quart.

    LEMONADE--"There is a current opinion among women" says Brillat
    Savarin "which every year causes the death of many young
    women,--that acids, especially vinegar, are preventives of
    obesity. Beyond all doubt, acids have the effect of destroying
    obesity; but they also destroy health and freshness. Lemonade
    is, of all acids, the most harmless; but few stomachs can resist
    it long. I knew, in 1776, at Dijon, a young lady of great
    beauty, to whom I was attached by bonds of friendship, great,
    almost as those of love. One day, when she had for some time
    gradually grown pale and thin (previously she had a slight
    embonpoint), she told me in confidence, that as her young
    friends had ridiculed her for being fat, she had, to counteract
    the tendency, been in the habit every day of drinking a large
    glass of vinaigre. She died at eighteen years of age, from the
    effects of these potions."

TO MAKE NEGUS.

1835. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of port wine allow 1 quart of boiling
water, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 lemon, grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--As this beverage is more usually drunk at children's parties
than at any other, the wine need not be very old or expensive for the
purpose, a new fruity wine answering very well for it. Put the wine into
a jug, rub some lumps of sugar (equal to 1/4 lb.) on the lemon-rind
until all the yellow part of the skin is absorbed, then squeeze the
juice, and strain it. Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the port wine,
with the grated nutmeg; pour over it the boiling water, cover the jug,
and, when the beverage has cooled a little, it will be fit for use.
Negus may also be made of sherry, or any other sweet white wine, but is
more usually made of port than of any other beverage.

_Sufficient_--Allow 1 pint of wine, with the other ingredients in
proportion, for a party of 9 or 10 children.


A PLEASANT DRINK FOR WARM WEATHER.

1836. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1-1/2 pint of good ale allow 1 bottle of
ginger beer. _Mode_.--For this beverage the ginger beer must be in an
effervescing state, and the beer not in the least turned or sour. Mix
them together, and drink immediately. The draught is refreshing and
wholesome, as the ginger corrects the action of the beer. It does not
deteriorate by standing a little, but, of course, is better when taken
fresh.


FOR A SUMMER DRAUGHT.

1837. INGREDIENTS.--The juice of 1 lemon, a tumbler-ful of cold water,
pounded sugar to taste, 4 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

_Mode_.--Squeeze the juice from the lemon; strain, and add it to the
water, with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. When
well mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while the mixture is
in an effervescing state.


TO MULL WINE.

1838. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of wine allow 1 large cupful of water,
sugar and spice to taste.

_Mode_.--In making preparations like the above, it is very difficult to
give the exact proportions of ingredients like sugar and spice, as what
quantity might suit one person would be to another quite distasteful.
Boil the spice in the water until the flavour is extracted, then add the
wine and sugar, and bring the whole to the boiling-point, when serve
with strips of crisp dry toast, or with biscuits. The spices usually
used for mulled wine are cloves, grated nutmeg, and cinnamon or mace.
Any kind of wine may be mulled, but port and claret are those usually
selected for the purpose; and the latter requires a very large
proportion of sugar. The vessel that the wine is boiled in must be
delicately clean, and should be kept exclusively for the purpose. Small
tin warmers may be purchased for a trifle, which are more suitable than
saucepans, as, if the latter are not scrupulously clean, they will spoil
the wine, by imparting to it a very disagreeable flavour. These warmers
should be used for no other purposes.


TO MAKE HOT PUNCH.

1839. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of rum, 1/2 pint of brandy, 1/4 lb. of
sugar, 1 large lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 1 pint of boiling
water.

[Illustration: PUNCH-BOWL AND LADLE.]

_Mode_.--Rub the sugar over the lemon until it has absorbed all the
yellow part of the skin, then put the sugar into a punchbowl; add the
lemon-juice (free from pips), and mix these two ingredients well
together. Pour over them the boiling water, stir well together, add the
rum, brandy, and nutmeg; mix thoroughly, and the punch will be ready to
serve. It is very important in making good punch that all the
ingredients are thoroughly incorporated; and, to insure success, the
processes of mixing must be diligently attended to.

_Sufficient_.--Allow a quart for 4 persons; but this information must be
taken _cum grano salis_; for the capacities of persons for this kind of
beverage are generally supposed to vary considerably.

    PUNCH is a beverage made of various spirituous liquors or wine,
    hot water, the acid juice of fruits, and sugar. It is considered
    to be very intoxicating; but this is probably because the
    spirit, being partly sheathed by the mucilaginous juice and the
    sugar, its strength does not appear to the taste so great as it
    really is. Punch, which was almost universally drunk among the
    middle classes about fifty or sixty years ago, has almost
    disappeared from our domestic tables, being superseded by wine.
    There are many different varieties of punch. It is sometimes
    kept cold in bottles, and makes a most agreeable summer drink.
    In Scotland, instead of the Madeira or sherry generally used in
    its manufacture, whiskey is substituted, and then its insidious
    properties are more than usually felt. Where fresh lemons cannot
    be had for punch or similar beverages, crystallized citric acid
    and a few drops of the essence of lemon will be very nearly the
    same thing. In the composition of "Regent's punch," champagne,
    brandy, and _veritable Martinique_ are required; "Norfolk punch"
    requires Seville oranges; "Milk punch" may be extemporized by
    adding a little hot milk to lemonade, and then straining it
    through a jelly-bag. Then there are "Wine punch," "Tea punch,"
    and "French punch," made with lemons, spirits, and wine, in
    fantastic proportions. But of all the compounds of these
    materials, perhaps, for a _summer_ drink, the North-American
    "mint julep" is the most inviting. Captain Marryat gives the
    following recipe for its preparation:--"Put into a tumbler about
    a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint; upon them put a
    spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and
    common brandy, so as to fill up one third, or, perhaps, a little
    less; then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up the tumbler.
    Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh
    pineapple; and the tumbler itself is very often encrusted
    outside with stalactites of ice. As the ice melts, you drink."
    The Virginians, say Captain Marryat, claim the merit of having
    invented this superb compound; but, from a passage in the
    "Comus" of Milton, he claims it for his own country.

WHISKEY CORDIAL.

1840. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of ripe white currants, the rind of 2 lemons,
1/4 oz. of grated ginger, 1 quart of whiskey, 1 lb. of lump sugar.

_Mode_.--Strip the currants from the stalks; put them into a large jug;
add the lemon-rind, ginger, and whiskey; cover the jug closely, and let
it remain covered for 24 hours. Strain through a hair sieve, add the
lump sugar, and let it stand 12 hours longer; then bottle, and cork
well.

_Time_.--To stand 24 hours before being strained; 12 hours after the
sugar is added.

_Seasonable_.--Make this in July.

[Illustration]




INVALID COOKERY.


CHAPTER XXXVIII.


A FEW RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN COOKING FOR INVALIDS.

1841. LET all the kitchen utensils used in the preparation of invalids'
cookery be delicately and 'scrupulously clean;' if this is not the case,
a disagreeable flavour may be imparted to the preparation, which flavour
may disgust, and prevent the patient from partaking of the refreshment
when brought to him or her.

1842. For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as they
seldom require much at a time; and it is desirable that variety be
provided for them.

1843. Always have something in readiness; a little beef tea, nicely made
and nicely skimmed, a few spoonfuls of jelly, &c. &c., that it may be
administered as soon almost as the invalid wishes for it. If obliged to
wait a long time, the patient loses the desire to eat, and often turns
against the food when brought to him or her.

1844. In sending dishes or preparations up to invalids, let everything
look as tempting as possible. Have a clean tray-cloth laid smoothly over
the tray; let the spoons, tumblers, cups and saucers, &c., be very clean
and bright. Gruel served in a tumbler is more appetizing than when
served in a basin or cup and saucer.

1845. As milk is an important article of food for the sick, in warm
weather let it be kept on ice, to prevent its turning sour. Many other
delicacies may also be preserved good in the same manner for some little
time.

1846. If the patient be allowed to eat vegetables, never send them up
undercooked, or half raw; and let a small quantity only be temptingly
arranged on a dish. This rule will apply to every preparation, as an
invalid is much more likely to enjoy his food if small delicate pieces
are served to him.

1847. Never leave food about a sick room; if the patient cannot eat it
when brought to him, take it away, and bring it to him in an hour or
two's time. Miss Nightingale says, "To leave the patient's untasted food
by his side, from meal to meal, in hopes that he will eat it in the
interval, is simply to prevent him from taking any food at all." She
says, "I have known patients literally incapacitated from taking one
article of food after another by this piece of ignorance. Let the food
come at the right time, and be taken away, eaten or uneaten, at the
right time, but never let a patient have 'something always standing' by
him, if you don't wish to disgust him of everything."

1848. Never serve beef tea or broth with the _smallest particle_ of fat
or grease on the surface. It is better, after making either of these, to
allow them to get perfectly cold, when _all the fat_ may be easily
removed; then warm up as much as may be required. Two or three pieces of
clean whity-brown paper laid on the broth will absorb any greasy
particles that may be floating at the top, as the grease will cling to
the paper.

1849. Roast mutton, chickens, rabbits, calves' feet or head, game, fish
(simply dressed), and simple puddings, are all light food, and easily
digested. Of course, these things are only partaken of, supposing the
patient is recovering.

1850. A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed, and broiled to a turn, is a
dish to be recommended for invalids; but it must not be served _with all
the fat_ at the end, nor must it be too thickly cut. Let it be cooked
over a fire free from smoke, and sent up with the gravy in it, between
two very hot plates. Nothing is more disagreeable to an invalid than
_smoked_ food.

1851. In making toast-and-water, never blacken the bread, but toast it
only a nice brown. Never leave toast-and-water to make until the moment
it is required, as it cannot then be properly prepared,--at least, the
patient will be obliged to drink it warm, which is anything but
agreeable.

1852. In boiling eggs for invalids, let the white be just set; if boiled
hard, they will be likely to disagree with the patient.

1853. In Miss Nightingale's admirable "Notes on Nursing," a book that no
mother or nurse should be without, she says,--"You cannot be too careful
as to quality in sick diet. A nurse should never put before a patient
milk that is sour, meat or soup that is turned, an egg that is bad, or
vegetables underdone." Yet often, she says, she has seen these things
brought in to the sick, in a state perfectly perceptible to every nose
or eye except the nurse's. It is here that the clever nurse
appears,--she will not bring in the peccant article; but, not to
disappoint the patient, she will whip up something else in a few
minutes. Remember, that sick cookery should half do the work of your
poor patient's weak digestion.

1854. She goes on to caution nurses, by saying,--"Take care not to spill
into your patient's saucer; in other words, take care that the outside
bottom rim of his cup shall be quite dry and clean. If, every time he
lifts his cup to his lips, he has to carry the saucer with it, or else
to drop the liquid upon and to soil his sheet, or bedgown, or pillow,
or, if he is sitting up, his dress, you have no idea what a difference
this minute want of care on your part makes to his comfort, and even to
his willingness for food."




RECIPES.


CHAPTER XXXIX.


TO MAKE ARROWROOT.

1855. INGREDIENTS.--Two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 3 tablespoonfuls of
cold water, 1/2 pint of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Mix the arrowroot smoothly in a basin with the cold water, then
pour on it the _boiling_ water, _stirring_ all the time. The water must
be _boiling_ at the time it is poured on the mixture, or it will not
thicken; if mixed with hot water only, it must be put into a clean
saucepan, and boiled until it thickens; but this is more trouble, and
quite unnecessary if the water is boiling at first. Put the arrowroot
into a tumbler, sweeten it with lump sugar, and flavour it with grated
nutmeg or cinnamon, or a piece of lemon-peel, or, when allowed, 3
tablespoonfuls of port or sherry. As arrowroot is in itself flavourless
and insipid, it is almost necessary to add the wine to make it
palatable. Arrowroot made with milk instead of water is far nicer, but
is not so easily digested. It should be mixed in the same manner, with 3
tablespoonfuls of cold water, the boiling milk then poured on it, and
well stirred. When made in this manner, no wine should be added, but
merely sugar, and a little grated nutmeg or lemon-peel.

_Time_.--If obliged to be boiled, 2 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. per
pint.

_Sufficient_ to make 1/2 pint of arrowroot.

    MISS NIGHTINGALE says, in her "Notes on Nursing," that arrowroot
    is a grand dependence of the nurse. As a vehicle for wine, and
    as a restorative quickly prepared, it is all very well, but it
    is nothing but starch and water; flour is both more nutritive
    and less liable to ferment, and is preferable wherever it can be
    used.

BARLEY GRUEL.

1856. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of Scotch or pearl barley, 1/2 pint of port
wine, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart and 1/2 pint of water, sugar to
taste.

_Mode_.--After well washing the barley, boil it in 1/2 pint of water for
1/4 hour; then pour this water away; put to the barley the quart of
fresh boiling water, and let it boil until the liquid is reduced to
half; then strain it off. Add the wine, sugar, and lemon-peel; simmer
for 5 minutes, and put it away in a clean jug. It can be warmed from
time to time, as required.

_Time_.--To be boiled until reduced to half. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ with the wine to make 1-1/2 pint of gruel.


TO MAKE BARLEY-WATER.

1857. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of pearl barley, 2 quarts of boiling water, 1
pint of cold water.

_Mode_.--Wash the barley in cold water; put it into a saucepan with the
above proportion of cold water, and when it has boiled for about 1/4
hour, strain off the water, and add the 2 quarts of fresh boiling water.
Boil it until the liquid is reduced one half; strain it, and it will be
ready for use. It may be flavoured with lemon-peel, after being
sweetened, or a small piece may be simmered with the barley. When the
invalid may take it, a little lemon-juice gives this pleasant drink in
illness a very nice flavour.

_Time_.--To boil until the liquid is reduced one half.

_Sufficient_ to make 1 quart of barley-water.


TO MAKE BEEF TEA.

1858. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, 1 quart of water, 1
saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Have the meat cut without fat and bone, and choose a nice
fleshy piece. Cut it into small pieces about the size of dice, and put
it into a clean saucepan. Add the water _cold_ to it; put it on the
fire, and bring it to the boiling-point; then skim well. Put in the salt
when the water boils, and _simmer_ the beef tea _gently_ from 1/2 to 3/4
hour, removing any more scum should it appear on the surface. Strain the
tea through a hair sieve, and set it by in a cool place. When wanted for
use, remove every particle of fat from the top; warm up as much as may
be required, adding, if necessary, a little more salt. This preparation
is simple beef tea, and is to be administered to those invalids to whom
flavourings and seasonings are not allowed. When the patient is very
low, use double the quantity of meat to the same proportion of water.
Should the invalid be able to take the tea prepared in a more palatable
manner, it is easy to make it so by following the directions in the next
recipe, which is an admirable one for making savoury beef tea. Beef tea
is always better when made the day before it is wanted, and then warmed
up. It is a good plan to put the tea into a small cup or basin, and to
place this basin in a saucepan of boiling water. When the tea is warm,
it is ready to serve.

_Time_.--1/4 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per pint.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of meat for a pint of good beef tea.

    MISS NIGHTINGALE says, one of the most common errors among
    nurses, with respect to sick diet, is the belief that beef tea
    is the most nutritive of all article. She says, "Just try and
    boil down a lb. of beef into beef tea; evaporate your beef tea,
    and see what is left of your beef: you will find that there is
    barely a teaspoonful of solid nourishment to 1/4 pint of water
    in beef tea. Nevertheless, there is a certain reparative quality
    in it,--we do not know what,--as there is in tea; but it maybe
    safely given in almost any inflammatory disease, and is as
    little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent,
    where much nourishment is required."

SAVOURY BEEF TEA.

(_Soyer's Recipe_.)

1859. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of solid beef, 1 oz. of butter, 1 clove, 2
button onions or 1/2 a large one, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 quart of
water.

_Mode_.--Cut the beef into very small dice; put it into a stewpan with
the butter, clove, onion, and salt; stir the meat round over the fire
for a few minutes, until it produces a thin gravy; then add the water,
and let it simmer gently from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, skimming off every
particle of fat. When done, strain it through a sieve, and put it by in
a cool place until required. The same, if wanted quite plain, is done by
merely omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove; the butter cannot be
objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 8d. per pint.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of beef to make 1 pint of good beef tea.

_Note_.--The meat loft from beef tea may be boiled a little longer, and
pounded, with spices, &c., for potting. It makes a very nice breakfast
dish.

    DR. CHRISTISON says that "every one will be struck with the
    readiness with which certain classes of patients will often take
    diluted meat juice, or beef tea repeatedly, when they refuse all
    other kinds of food." This is particularly remarkable in case of
    gastric fever, in which, he says, little or nothing else besides
    beef tea, or diluted meat juice, has been taken for weeks, or
    even months; and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely 1/4
    oz. of anything but water. The result is so striking, that he
    asks, "What is its mode of action? Not simple nutriment; 1/4 oz.
    of the most nutritive material cannot nearly replace the daily
    wear and tear of the tissue in any circumstances." Possibly, he
    says, it belongs to a new denomination of remedies.

BAKED BEEF TEA.

1860. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of fleshy beef, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1/4
saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Cut the beef into small square pieces, after trimming off all
the fat, and put it into a baking-jar, with the above proportion of
water and salt; cover the jar well, place it in a warm, but not hot
oven, and bake for 3 or 4 hours. When the oven is very fierce in the
daytime, it is a good plan to put the jar in at night, and let it remain
till the next morning, when the tea will be done. It should be strained,
and put by in a cool place until wanted. It may also be flavoured with
an onion, a clove, and a few sweet herbs, &c., when the stomach is
sufficiently strong to take those.

_Time_.--3 or 4 hours, or to be left in the oven all night.

_Average cost_, 6d. per pint.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of meat for 1 pint of good beef tea.


BAKED OR STEWED CALF'S FOOT.

1861. INGREDIENTS.--1 calf's foot, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1
blade of mace, the rind of 1/4 lemon, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Well clean the foot, and either stew or bake it in the
milk-and-water with the other ingredients from 3 to 4 hours. To enhance
the flavour, an onion and a small quantity of celery may be added, if
approved; 1/2 a teacupful of cream, stirred in just before serving, is
also a great improvement to this dish.

_Time_.--3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 1 person. _Seasonable_ from March to October.


CALF'S-FOOT BROTH.

1862. INGREDIENTS.--1 calf's foot, 3 pints of water, 1 small lump of
sugar, nutmeg to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, a piece of butter the size of
a nut.

_Mode_.--Stew the foot in the water, with the lemon-peel, very gently,
until the liquid is half wasted, removing any scum, should it rise to
the surface. Set it by in a basin until quite cold, then take off every
particle of fat. Warm up about 1/2 pint of the broth, adding the butter,
sugar, and a very small quantity of grated nutmeg; take it off the fire
for a minute or two, then add the beaten yolk of the egg; keep stirring
over the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil
again after the egg is added, or it will curdle, and the broth will be
spoiled.

_Time_.--To be boiled until the liquid is reduced one half.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each.

_Sufficient_ to make 1-1/4 pint of broth.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.


CHICKEN BROTH.

1863. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 fowl, or the inferior joints of a whole one; 1
quart of water, 1 blade of mace, 1/2 onion, a small bunch of sweet
herbs, salt to taste, 10 peppercorns.

_Mode_.--An old fowl not suitable for eating may be converted into very
good broth, or, if a young one be used, the inferior joints may be put
in the broth, and the best pieces reserved for dressing in some other
manner. Put the fowl into a saucepan, with all the ingredients, and
simmer gently for 1-1/2 hour, carefully skimming the broth well. When
done, strain, and put by in a cool place until wanted; then take all the
fat off the top, warm up as much as may be required, and serve. This
broth is, of course, only for those invalids whose stomachs are strong
enough to digest it, with a flavouring of herbs, &c. It may be made in
the same manner as beef tea, with water and salt only; but the
preparation will be but tasteless and insipid. When the invalid cannot
digest this chicken broth with the flavouring, we would recommend plain
beef tea in preference to plain chicken tea, which it would be without
the addition of herbs, onions, &c.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_ to make rather more than 1 pint of broth.


NUTRITIOUS COFFEE.

1864. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 oz. of ground coffee, 1 pint of milk.

_Mode_.--Let the coffee be freshly ground; put it into a saucepan, with
the milk, which should be made nearly boiling before the coffee is put
in, and boil both together for 3 minutes; clear it by pouring some of it
into a cup, and then back again, and leave it on the hob for a few
minutes to settle thoroughly. This coffee may be made still more
nutritious by the addition of an egg well beaten, and put into the
coffee-cup.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to settle.

_Sufficient_ to make 1 large breakfast-cupful of coffee.

    Our great nurse Miss Nightingale remarks, that "a great deal too
    much against tea is said by wise people, and a great deal too
    much of tea is given to the sick by foolish people. When you see
    the natural and almost universal craving in English sick for
    their 'tea,' you cannot but feel that Nature knows what she is
    about. But a little tea or coffee restores them quite as much as
    a great deal; and a great deal of tea, and especially of coffee,
    impairs the little power of digestion they have. Yet a nurse,
    because she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restore
    her patient, thinks that three or four cups will do twice as
    much. This is not the case at all; it is, however, certain that
    there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the
    English patient for his cup of tea; he can take it when he can
    take nothing else, and he often can't take anything else, if he
    has it not. Coffee is a better restorative than tea, but a
    greater impairer of the digestion. In making coffee, it is
    absolutely necessary to buy it in the berry, and grind it at
    home; otherwise, you may reckon upon its containing a certain
    amount of chicory, at least. This is not a question of the
    taste, or of the wholesomeness of chicory; it is, that chicory
    has nothing at all of the properties for which you give coffee,
    and, therefore, you may as well not give it."

THE INVALID'S CUTLET.

1865. INGREDIENTS.--1 nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton, 2
teacupfuls of water, 1 very small stick of celery, pepper and salt to
taste.

_Mode_.--Have the cutlet cut from a very nice loin or neck of mutton;
take off all the fat; put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients;
stew _very gently_ indeed for nearly 2 hours, and skim off every
particle of fat that may rise to the surface from time to time. The
celery should be cut into thin slices before it is added to the meat,
and care must be taken not to put in too much of this ingredient, or the
dish will not be good. If the water is allowed to boil fast, the cutlet
will be hard.

_Time_.--2 hours' very gentle stewing. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 person. _Seasonable_ at any time.


EEL BROTH.

1866. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of eels, a small bunch of sweet herbs,
including parsley; 1/2 onion, 10 peppercorns, 3 pints of water, 2
cloves, salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--After having cleaned and skinned the eel, cut it into small
pieces, and put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients; simmer
gently until the liquid is reduced nearly half, carefully removing the
scum as it rises. Strain it through a hair sieve; put it by in a cool
place, and, when wanted, take off all the fat from the top, warm up as
much as is required, and serve with sippets of toasted bread. This is a
very nutritious broth, and easy of digestion.

_Time_.--To be simmered until the liquor is reduced to half.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ to make 1-1/2 pint of broth.

_Seasonable_ from June to March.


EGG WINE.

1867. INGREDIENTS.--1 egg, 1 tablespoonful and 1/2 glass of cold water,
1 glass of sherry, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--Beat the egg, mixing with it a tablespoonful of cold water;
make the wine-and-water hot, but not boiling; pour it on the egg,
stirring all the time. Add sufficient lump sugar to sweeten the mixture,
and a little grated nutmeg; put all into a very clean saucepan, set it
on a gentle fire, and stir the contents one way until they thicken, but
_do not allow them to boil_. Serve in a glass with sippets of toasted
bread or plain crisp biscuits. When the egg is not warmed, the mixture
will be found easier of digestion, but it is not so pleasant a drink.

_Sufficient_ for 1 person.


TO MAKE GRUEL.

1868. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of Robinson's patent groats, 2
tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Mix the prepared groats smoothly with the cold water in a
basin; pour over them the boiling water, stirring it all the time. Put
it into a very clean saucepan; boil the gruel for 10 minutes, keeping it
well stirred; sweeten to taste, and serve. It may be flavoured with a
small piece of lemon-peel, by boiling it in the gruel, or a little
grated nutmeg may be put in; but in these matters the taste of the
patient should be consulted. Pour the gruel in a tumbler and serve. When
wine is allowed to the invalid, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry or port make
this preparation very nice. In cases of colds, the same quantity of
spirits is sometimes added instead of wine.

_Time_.--10 minutes.

_Sufficient_ to make a pint of gruel.


INVALID'S JELLY.

1869. INGREDIENTS.--12 shanks of mutton, 3 quarts of water, a bunch of
sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, 1 onion, 1 lb.
of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted brown.

_Mode_.--Soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours, and scrub
them well; put them, with the beef and other ingredients, into a
saucepan with the water, and let them simmer very gently for 5 hours.
Strain the broth, and, when cold, take off all the fat. It may be eaten
either warmed up or cold as a jelly.

_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of jelly.

_Seasonable_ at any time.


LEMONADE FOR INVALIDS.

1870. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lemon, lump sugar to taste, 1 pint of boiling
water.

_Mode_.--Pare off the rind of the lemon thinly; cut the lemon into 2 or
3 thick slices, and remove as much as possible of the white outside
pith, and all the pips. Put the slices of lemon, the peel, and lump
sugar into a jug; pour over the boiling water; cover it closely, and in
2 hours it will be fit to drink. It should either be strained or poured
off from the sediment.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2d.

_Sufficient_ to make 1 pint of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time.


NOURISHING LEMONADE.

1871. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of boiling water, the juice of 4 lemons,
the rinds of 2, 1/2 pint of sherry, 4 eggs, 6 oz. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Pare off the lemon-rind thinly, put it into a jug with the
sugar, and pour over the boiling water. Let it cool, then strain it; add
the wine, lemon-juice, and eggs, previously well beaten, and also
strained, and the beverage will be ready for use. If thought desirable,
the quantity of sherry and water could be lessened, and milk substituted
for them. To obtain the flavour of the lemon-rind properly, a few lumps
of the sugar should be rubbed over it, until some of the yellow is
absorbed.

_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour to make it. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ to make 2-1/2 pints of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE MUTTON BROTH.

1872. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of the scrag end of the neck of mutton, 1
onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, 4 turnip, 1/2 pints of water, pepper and
salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the mutton into a stewpan; pour over the water cold and add
the other ingredients. When it boils, skim it very carefully, cover the
pan closely, and let it simmer very gently for an hour; strain it, let
it cool, take off all the fat from the surface, and warm up as much as
may be required, adding, if the patient be allowed to take it, a
teaspoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. Pearl
barley or rice are very nice additions to mutton broth, and should be
boiled as long as the other ingredients. When either of these is added,
the broth must not be strained, but merely thoroughly skimmed. Plain
mutton broth without seasoning is made by merely boiling the mutton,
water, and salt together, straining it, letting the broth cool, skimming
all the fat off, and warming up as much as is required. This preparation
would be very tasteless and insipid, but likely to agree with very
delicate stomachs, whereas the least addition of other ingredients would
have the contrary effect.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, _7d._

_Sufficient_ to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of broth.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Veal broth may be made in the same manner; the knuckle of a leg
or shoulder is the part usually used for this purpose. It is very good
with the addition of the inferior joints of a fowl, or a few
shank-bones.


MUTTON BROTH, QUICKLY MADE.

1873. INGREDIENTS.--1 or 2 chops from a neck of mutton, 1 pint of water,
a small bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 of an onion, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with the
bones, but no skin or fat; add the other ingredients; cover the
saucepan, and bring the water quickly to boil. Take the lid off, and
continue the rapid boiling for 20 minutes, skimming it well during the
process; strain the broth into a basin; if there should be any fat left
on the surface, remove it by laying a piece of thin paper on the top:
the greasy particles will adhere to the paper, and so free the
preparation from them. To an invalid nothing is more disagreeable than
broth served with a quantity of fat floating on the top; to avoid this,
it is always better to allow it to get thoroughly cool, the fat can then
be so easily removed.

_Time_.--20 minutes after the water boils. _Average cost_, 5d.

_Sufficient_ to make 1/2 pint of broth. _Seasonable_ at any time.


STEWED RABBITS IN MILK.

1874. INGREDIENTS.--2 very young rabbits, not nearly half grown; 1-1/2
pint of milk, 1 blade of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little salt
and cayenne.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour very smoothly with 4 tablespoonfuls of the milk,
and when this is well mixed, add the remainder. Cut up the rabbits into
joints, put them into a stewpan, with the milk and other ingredients,
and simmer them _very gently_ until quite tender. Stir the contents from
time to time, to keep the milk smooth and prevent it from burning. 1/2
hour will be sufficient for the cooking of this dish.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 meals. _Seasonable_ from September to February.


RICE-MILK.

1875. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 quart of milk, sugar to
taste; when liked, a little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Well wash the rice, put it into a saucepan with the milk, and
simmer gently until the rice is tender, stirring it from time to time to
prevent the milk from burning; sweeten it, add a little grated nutmeg,
and serve. This dish is also very suitable and wholesome for children;
it may be flavoured with a little lemon-peel, and a little finely-minced
suet may be boiled with it, which renders it more strengthening and more
wholesome. Tapioca, semolina, vermicelli, and macaroni, may all be
dressed in the same manner.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time.


TO MAKE TOAST-AND-WATER.

1876. INGREDIENTS.--A slice of bread, 1 quart of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Cut a slice from a stale loaf (a piece of hard crust is better
than anything else for the purpose), toast it of a nice brown on every
side, but _do not allow it to burn or blacken_. Put it into a jug, pour
the boiling water over it, cover it closely, and let it remain until
cold. When strained, it will be ready for use. Toast-and-water should
always be made a short time before it is required, to enable it to get
cold: if drunk in a tepid or lukewarm state, it is an exceedingly
disagreeable beverage. If, as is sometimes the case, this drink is
wanted in a hurry, put the toasted bread into a jug, and only just cover
it with the boiling water; when this is cool, cold water may be added in
the proportion required,--the toast-and-water strained; it will then be
ready for use, and is more expeditiously prepared than by the above
method.


TOAST SANDWICHES.

1877. INGREDIENTS.--Thin cold toast, thin slices of bread-and-butter,
pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Place a very thin piece of cold toast between 2 slices of thin
bread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich, adding a seasoning of pepper
and salt. This sandwich may be varied by adding a little pulled meat, or
very fine slices of cold meat, to the toast, and in any of these forms
will be found very tempting to the appetite of an invalid.


1878. Besides the recipes contained in this chapter, there are, in the
previous chapters on cookery, many others suitable for invalids, which
it would be useless to repeat here. Recipes for fish simply dressed,
light soups, plain roast meat, well-dressed vegetables, poultry, simple
puddings, jelly, stewed fruits, &c. &c., all of which dishes may be
partaken of by invalids and convalescents, will be found in preceding
chapters.




DINNERS AND DINING.


CHAPTER XL.


1879. Man, it has been said, is a dining animal. Creatures of the
inferior races eat and drink; man only dines. It has also been said that
he is a cooking animal; but some races eat food without cooking it. A
Croat captain said to M. Brillat Savarin, "When, in campaign, we feel
hungry, we knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder
it with salt, put it under the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile,
and then eat it." Huntsmen in Dauphiny, when out shooting, have been
known to kill a bird, pluck it, salt and pepper it, and cook it by
carrying it some time in their caps. It is equally true that some races
of men do not dine any more than the tiger or the vulture. It is not a
_dinner_ at which sits the aboriginal Australian, who gnaws his bone
half bare and then flings it behind to his squaw. And the native of
Terra-del-Fuego does not dine when he gets his morsel of red clay.
Dining is the privilege of civilization. The rank which a people occupy
in the grand scale may be measured by their way of taking their meals,
as well as by their way of treating their women. The nation which knows
how to dine has learnt the leading lesson of progress. It implies both
the will and the skill to reduce to order, and surround with idealisms
and graces, the more material conditions of human existence; and
wherever that will and that skill exist, life cannot be wholly ignoble.

1880. Dinner, being the grand solid meal of the day, is a matter of
considerable importance; and a well-served table is a striking index of
human, ingenuity and resource. "Their table," says Lord Byron, in
describing a dinner-party given by Lord and Lady Amundevillo at Norman
Abbey,--

  "Their table was a board to tempt even ghosts
  To pass the Styx for more substantial feasts.
  I will not dwell upon ragouts or roasts,
  Albeit all human history attests
  That happiness for man--the hungry sinner!--
  Since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner."

And then he goes on to observe upon the curious complexity of the
results produced by human cleverness and application catering for the
modifications which occur in civilized life, one of the simplest of the
primal instincts:--

  "The mind is lost in mighty contemplation
  Of intellect expended on two courses;
  And indigestion's grand multiplication
  Requires arithmetic beyond my forces.
  Who would suppose, from Adam's simple ration,
  That cookery could have call'd forth such resources,
  As form a science and a nomenclature
  From out the commonest demands of nature?"

And we may well say, Who, indeed, would suppose it? The gulf between the
Croat, with a steak under his saddle, and Alexis Soyer getting up a
great dinner at the Reform-Club, or even Thackeray's Mrs. Raymond Gray
giving "a little dinner" to Mr. Snob (with one of those famous
"roly-poly puddings" of hers),--what a gulf it is!

1881. That Adam's "ration," however, was "simple," is a matter on which
we have contrary judgments given by the poets. When Raphael paid that
memorable visit to Paradise,--which we are expressly told by Milton he
did exactly at dinner-time,--Eve seems to have prepared "a little
dinner" not wholly destitute of complexity, and to have added ice-creams
and perfumes. Nothing can be clearer than the testimony of the poet on
these points:--

  "And Eve within, due at her home prepared
  For dinner savoury fruits, of taste to please
  True appetite, and not disrelish thirst
  Of nectarous draughts between....
  .... With dispatchful looks in haste
  She turns, on hospitable thoughts intent,
  What choice to choose for delicacy best,
  What order so contrived as not to mix
  Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring
  Taste after taste, upheld with kindliest change--
         *       *       *       *       *
  "She _tempers dulcet creams_....
  .... _then strews the ground
  With rose and odours._"

It may be observed, in passing, that the poets, though they have more to
say about wine than solid food, because the former more directly
stimulates the intellect and the feelings, do not flinch from the
subject of eating and drinking. There is infinite zest in the above
passage from Milton, and even more in the famous description of a dainty
supper, given by Keats in his "Eve of Saint Agnes." Could Queen Mab
herself desire to sit down to anything nicer, both as to its
appointments and serving, and as to its quality, than the collation
served by Porphyro in the lady's bedroom while she slept?--

  "There by the bedside, where the faded moon
  Made a dim silver twilight, soft he set
  A table, and, half-anguish'd, threw thereor
  A cloth of woven crimson, gold, and jet.
        *       *       *       *       *
  "While he, from forth the closet, brought a heap
  Of candied apple, quince, and plum, and gourd;
  With jellies smoother than the creamy curd,
  And lucent syrups tinct with cinnamon;
  Manna and dates, in argosy transferr'd
  From Fez; and spiced dainties, every one,
  From silken Samarcand to cedar'd Lebanon."

But Tennyson has ventured beyond dates, and quinces, and syrups, which
may be thought easy to be brought in by a poet. In his idyl of "Audley
Court" he gives a most appetizing description of a pasty at a pic-nic:--

  "There, on a slope of orchard, Francis laid
  A damask napkin wrought with horse and hound;
  Brought out a dusky loaf that smelt of home,
  And, half cut down, a pasty costly made,
  Where quail and pigeon, lark and leveret, lay
  Like fossils of the rock, with golden yolks
  Imbedded and injellied."

We gladly quote passages like these, to show how eating and drinking may
be surrounded with poetical associations, and how man, using his
privilege to turn any and every repast into a "feast of reason," with a
warm and plentiful "flow of soul," may really count it as not the least
of his legitimate prides, that he is "a dining animal."

1882. It has been said, indeed, that great men, in general, are great
diners. This, however, can scarcely be true of any great men but men of
action; and, in that case, it would simply imply that persons of
vigorous constitution, who work hard, eat heartily; for, of course, a
life of action _requires_ a vigorous constitution, even though there may
be much illness, as in such cases as William III. and our brave General
Napier. Of men of thought, it can scarcely be true that they eat so
much, in a general way, though even they eat more than they are apt to
suppose they do; for, as Mr. Lewes observes, "nerve-tissue is very
expensive." Leaving great men of all kinds, however, to get their own
dinners, let us, who are not great, look after ours. Dine we must, and
we may as well dine elegantly as well as wholesomely.

1883. There are plenty of elegant dinners in modern days, and they were
not wanting in ancient times. It is well known that the dinner-party, or
symposium, was a not unimportant, and not unpoetical, feature in the
life of the sociable, talkative, tasteful Greek. Douglas Jerrold said
that such is the British humour for dining and giving of dinners, that
if London were to be destroyed by an earthquake, the Londoners would
meet at a public dinner to consider the subject. The Greeks, too, were
great diners: their social and religious polity gave them many chances
of being merry and making others merry on good eating and drinking. Any
public or even domestic sacrifice to one of the gods, was sure to be
followed by a dinner-party, the remains of the slaughtered "offering"
being served up on the occasion as a pious _pièce de résistance;_ and as
the different gods, goddesses, and demigods, worshipped by the community
in general, or by individuals, were very numerous indeed, and some very
religious people never let a day pass without offering up something or
other, the dinner-parties were countless. A birthday, too, was an excuse
for a dinner; a birthday, that is, of any person long dead and buried,
as well as of a living person, being a member of the family, or
otherwise esteemed. Dinners were, of course, eaten on all occasions of
public rejoicing. Then, among the young people, subscription dinners,
very much after the manner of modern times, were always being got up;
only that they would be eaten not at an hotel, but probably at the house
of one of the _heterae_. A Greek dinner-party was a handsome,
well-regulated affair. The guests came in elegantly dressed and crowned
with flowers. A slave, approaching each person as he entered, took off
his sandals and washed his feet. During the repast, the guests reclined
on couches with pillows, among and along which were set small tables.
After the solid meal came the "symposium" proper, a scene of music,
merriment, and dancing, the two latter being supplied chiefly by young
girls. There was a chairman, or symposiarch, appointed by the company to
regulate the drinking; and it was his duty to mix the wine in the
"mighty bowl." From this bowl the attendants ladled the liquor into
goblets, and, with the goblets, went round and round the tables, filling
the cups of the guests.

1884. The elegance with which a dinner is served is a matter which
depends, of course, partly upon the means, but still more upon the taste
of the master and mistress of the house. It may be observed, in general,
that there should always be flowers on the table, and as they form no
item of expense, there is no reason why they should not be employed
every day.

1885. The variety in the dishes which furnish forth a modern
dinner-table, does not necessarily imply anything unwholesome, or
anything capricious. Food that is not well relished cannot be well
digested; and the appetite of the over-worked man of business, or
statesman, or of any dweller in towns, whose occupations are exciting
and exhausting, is jaded, and requires stimulation. Men and women who
are in rude health, and who have plenty of air and exercise, eat the
simplest food with relish, and consequently digest it well; but those
conditions are out of the reach of many men. They must suit their mode
of dining to their mode of living, if they cannot choose the latter. It
is in serving up food that is at once appetizing and wholesome that the
skill of the modern housewife is severely tasked; and she has scarcely a
more important duty to fulfil. It is, in fact, her particular vocation,
in virtue of which she may be said to hold the health of the family, and
of the friends of the family, in her hands from day to day. It has been
said that "the destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they
are fed;" and a great gastronomist exclaims, "Tell me what kind of food
you eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are." The same writer
has some sentences of the same kind, which are rather hyperbolical, but
worth quoting:--"The pleasures of the table belong to all ages, to all
conditions, to all countries, and to all eras; they mingle with all
other pleasures, and remain, at last, to console us for their departure.
The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness upon humanity than
the discovery of a new star."

1886. The gastronomist from whom we have already quoted, has some
aphorisms and short directions in relation to dinner-parties, which are
well deserving of notice:--"Let the number of your guests never exceed
twelve, so that the conversation may be general. [Footnote: We have seen
this varied by saying that the number should never exceed that of the
Muses or fall below that of the Graces.] Let the temperature of the
dining-room be about 68°. Let the dishes be few in number in the first
course, but proportionally good. The order of food is from the most
substantial to the lightest. The order of drinking wine is from the
mildest to the most foamy and most perfumed. To invite a person to your
house is to take charge of his happiness so long as he is beneath your
roof. The mistress of the house should always be certain that the coffee
be excellent; whilst the master should be answerable for the quality of
his wines and liqueurs."


BILLS OF FARE.


JANUARY.

1887.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course._

                   Mock Turtle Soup,
                      removed by
               Cod's Head and Shoulders.

  Stewed Eels.          Vase of            Red Mullet.
                        Flowers.

                  Clear Oxtail Soup,
                      removed by
                 Fried Filleted Soles.

  _Entrées._

                   Riz de Veau aux
                       Tomates.

  Ragoût of             Vase of     Cotelettes de Pore
   Lobster.             Flowers.       à la Roberts.

                 Poulet à la Marengo.

  _Second Course._

                      Roast Turkey.

                       Pigeon Pie.

  Boiled Turkey and     Vase of           Boiled Ham.
    Celery Sauce.       Flowers.

                   Tongue, garnished.

                   Saddle of Mutton.

  _Third Course._

  Charlotte            Pheasants,        Apricot Jam
  à la Parisienne.      removed by         Tartlets.
                      Plum-pudding.

                         Jelly.

  Cream.                Vase of                Cream.
                        Flowers.

                         Jelly.

                         Snipes,
                       removed by
                    Pommes à la Condé.


We have given above the plan of placing the various dishes of the 1st
Course, Entrées, 2nd Course, and 3rd Course. Following this will be
found bills of fare for smaller parties; and it will be readily seen, by
studying the above arrangement of dishes, how to place a less number for
the more limited company. Several _menus_ for dinners _à la Russe,_ are
also included in the present chapter.


1888.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (January).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Carrot Soup à la Crécy.
  Oxtail Soup.
  Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
  Fried Smelts, with Dutch Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise Sauce.
  Sweetbreads.
  Oyster Patties.
  Fillets of Rabbits.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Turkey.
  Stewed Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
  Boiled Ham, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
  Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Hare.
  Teal.
  Eggs à la Neige.
  Vol-au-Vent of Preserved Fruit.
  1 Jelly. 1 Cream.
  Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel.
  Grilled Mushrooms.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1889.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (January).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Soup à la Reine.
  Whitings au Gratin.
  Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Tendrons de Veau.
  Curried Fowl and Boiled Rice.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Turkey, stuffed with Chestnuts, and Chestnut Sauce.
  Boiled Leg of Mutton, English Fashion,
    with Capers Sauce and Mashed Turnips.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Woodcocks or Partridges.
  Widgeon.
  Charlotte à la Vanille.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Orange Jelly.
  Blancmange.
  Artichoke Bottoms.
  Macaroni, with Parmesan Cheese.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1890.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (January).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Mulligatawny Soup.
  Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
  Fried Whitings.

  ENTREES.
  Fricasseed Chicken.
  Pork Cutlets, with Tomato Sauce.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Haunch of Mutton.
  Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
  Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Pheasants.
  Meringues à la Crême.
  Compôte of Apples.
  Orange Jelly.
  Cheesecakes.
  Soufflé of Rice.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1891.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Julienne Soup.
  Soles à la Normandie.

  ENTREES.
  Sweetbreads, with Sauce Piquante.
  Mutton Cutlets, with Mashed Potatoes.


  SECOND COURSE.
  Haunch of Venison.
  Boiled Fowls and Bacon, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Plum-pudding.
  Custards in Glasses.
  Apple Tart.
  Fondue à la Brillat Savarin.

  DESSERT.


1892.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vermicelli Soup.
  Fried Slices of Codfish and Anchovy Sauce.
  John Dory.

  ENTREES.
  Stewed Rump-steak à la Jardinière Rissoles.
  Oyster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Leg of Mutton.
  Curried Rabbit and Boiled Rice.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Partridges.
  Apple Fritters.
  Tartlets of Greengage Jam.
  Orange Jelly.
  Plum-pudding.

  DESSERT.


1893.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).--III.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Pea-soup.
  Baked Haddock.
  Soles à la Crême.

  ENTREES.
  Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
  Fricasseed Rabbit.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Pork and Apple Sauce.
  Breast of Veal, Rolled and Stuffed.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Jugged Hare.
  Whipped Cream, Blancmange.
  Mince Pies.
  Cabinet Pudding.


1894.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).--IV.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Palestine Soup.
  Fried Smelts.
  Stewed Eels.

  ENTREES.
  Ragoût of Lobster.
  Broiled Mushrooms.
  Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Sirloin of Beef.
  Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
  Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Wild Ducks.
  Charlotte aux Pommes.
  Cheesecakes.
  Transparent Jelly, inlaid with Brandy Cherries.
  Blancmange.
  Nesselrode Pudding.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JANUARY.

1895. _Sunday._--1, Boiled turbot and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast
leg or griskin of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinet
pudding, and damson tart made with preserved damsons.

1896. _Monday._--1. The remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce,
potatoes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which should
have been made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart; baked
arrowroot pudding.

1897. _Tuesday._--1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips,
suet dumplings, and caper sauce: the broth should be served first, and a
little rice or pearl barley should be boiled with it along with the
meat. 2. Rolled jam pudding.

1898. _Wednesday._--1. Roast rolled ribs of beef, greens, potatoes, and
horseradish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes.

1899. _Thursday._--1. Vegetable soup (the bones from the ribs of beef
should be boiled down with this soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2.
Pheasants, gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni.

1900. _Friday._--1. Fried whitings or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit and onion
sauce, minced beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings.

1901. _Saturday._--1. Rump-steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes.
2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples.

       *       *       *       *       *

1902. _Sunday._--1. Codfish and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Joint of
roast mutton, either leg, haunch, or saddle; brocoli and potatoes,
red-currant jelly. 3. Apple tart and custards, cheese.

1903. _Monday._--1. The remains of codfish picked from the bone, and
warmed through in the oyster sauce; if there is no sauce left, order a
few oysters and make a little fresh; and do not let the fish boil, or it
will be watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served separately,
cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with wine
sauce.

1904. _Tuesday._--1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon garnished
with Brussels sprouts, minced or hashed mutton. 2. Baroness pudding.

1905. _Wednesday._--1. The remains of the fowls cut up into joints and
fricasseed; joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, if liked,
sage-and-onion, served on a dish by itself; turnips and potatoes. 2.
Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled.

1906. _Thursday._--1. Cold pork and jugged hare, red-currant jelly,
mashed potatoes. 2. Apple pudding.

1907. _Friday._--1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver side
of the round; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes: if there
is a marrowbone, serve the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Rice
snowballs.

1908. _Saturday._--1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was
boiled; cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter fruit pudding.

FEBRUARY.

1909.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
  _First Course._

                         Hare Soup,
                         removed by
                  Turbot and Oyster Sauce.

  Fried Eels.           Vase of        Fried Whitings.
                        Flowers.

                       Oyster Soup,
                       removed by
                Crimped Cod à la Maître
                         d'Hôtel.

  _Entrées._

                      Lark Pudding.

  Lobster Patties.      Vase of      Filets de Perdrix.
                        Flowers.

                    Fricasseed Chicken.

  _Second Course._

                         Braised Capon.
                      Boiled Ham, garnished.

  Roast Fowls, garnished     Vase of      Boiled Fowls and
  with Water-cresses.        Flowers.       White Sauce.

                            Pâté Chaud.
                         Haunch of Mutton.

  _Third Course_

                         Ducklings,
                         removed by
                         Ice Pudding.

   Meringues.           Coffee Cream.    Cheesecakes.

  Orange Jelly.         Vase of           Clear Jelly.
                        Flowers.

    Victoria           Blancmange.        Gâteau de
   Sandwiches.                             Pommes.

                       Partridges,
                       removed by
                      Cabinet Pudding.


                     DESSERT AND ICES.


1910.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (February).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Soup a la Reine.
  Clear Gravy Soup.
  Brill and Lobster Sauce.
  Fried Smelts.

  ENTREES.
  Lobster Rissoles.
  Beef Palates.
  Pork Cutlets à la Soubise.
  Grilled Mushrooms.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Braised Turkey.
  Haunch of Mutton.
  Boiled Capon and Oysters.
  Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli.
  Vegetables and Salads.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Wild Ducks.
  Plovers.
  Orange Jelly.
  Clear Jelly.
  Charlotte Russe.
  Nesselrode Pudding.
  Gâteau de Riz.
  Sea-kale.
  Maids of Honour.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1911.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (February).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Palestine Soup.
  John Dory, with Dutch Sauce.
  Red Mullet, with Sauce Génoise.

  ENTREES.
  Sweetbread Cutlets, with Poivrade Sauce.
  Fowl au Béchamel.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Saddle of Mutton.
  Boiled Capon and Oysters.
  Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Guinea-Fowls. Ducklings.
  Pain de Rhubarb.
  Orange Jelly.
  Strawberry Cream.
  Cheesecakes.
  Almond Pudding.
  Fig Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1912.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (February).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Mock Turtle Soup.
  Fillets of Turbot a la Crême.
  Fried Filleted Soles and Anchovy Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Larded Fillets of Rabbits.
  Tendrons de Veau with Purée of Tomatoes.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Stewed Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
  Roast Fowls.
  Boiled Ham.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Pigeons or Larks.
  Rhubarb Tartlets.
  Meringues.
  Clear Jelly. Cream.
  Ice Pudding.
  Soufflé.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1913.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February)--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Rice Soup.
  Red Mullet, with Génoise Sauce.
  Fried Smelts.

  ENTREES.
  Fowl Pudding.
  Sweetbreads.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Turkey and Sausages.
  Boiled Leg of Pork.
  Pease Pudding.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Lemon Jelly.
  Charlotte à la Vanille.
  Maids of Honour.
  Plum-pudding, removed by Ice Pudding.

  DESSERT.


1914.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Spring Soup.
  Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Fricasseed Rabbit.
  Oyster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Boiled Round of Beef and Marrow-bones.
  Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses and rolled Bacon.
                Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Marrow Pudding.
  Cheesecakes.
  Tartlets of Greengage Jam.
  Lemon Cream.
  Rhubarb Tart.

  DESSERT.


1915.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).--III.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vermicelli Soup.
  Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels.

  ENTREES.
  Poulet à la Marengo.
  Breast of Veal stuffed and rolled.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Leg of Pork and Apple Sauce.
  Boiled Capon and Oysters.
  Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Wild Ducks.
  Lobster Salad.
  Charlotte aux Pommes.
  Pain de Rhubarb.
  Vanilla Cream.
  Orange Jelly.

  DESSERT.


1916.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).--IV.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Ox-tail Soup.
  Cod à la Crême.
  Fried Soles.

  ENTREES.
  Lark Pudding.
  Fowl Scollops.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Leg of Mutton.
  Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
  Pigeon Pie.
  Small Ham, boiled and garnished.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Game, when liked.
  Tartlets of Raspberry Jam.
  Vol-au-Vent of Rhubarb.
  Swiss Cream. Cabinet Pudding.
  Brocoli and Sea-kale.

  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR FEBRUARY.

1917. _Sunday_.--1. Ox-tail soup. 2 Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding,
brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, apple tart. Cheese.

1918. _Monday_.--1. Fried soles, plain melted butter, and potatoes. 2.
Cold roast beef, mashed potatoes. 3. The remains of plum-pudding cut in
slices, warmed, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over it. Cheese.

1919. _Tuesday_.--1. The remains of ox-tail soup from Sunday. 2. Pork
cutlets with tomato sauce; hashed beef. 3. Boiled jam pudding. Cheese.

1920. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled haddock and plain melted butter. 2.
Rump-steak pudding, potatoes, greens. 3. Arrowroot, blancmange,
garnished with jam.

1921. _Thursday_.--1. Boiled leg of pork, greens, potatoes, pease
pudding. 2. Apple fritters, sweet macaroni.

1922. _Friday_.--1. Pea-soup made with liquor that the pork was boiled
in. 2. Cold pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice pudding.

1923. _Saturday_.--1. Broiled herrings and mustard sauce. 2. Haricot
mutton. 3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese.

       *       *       *       *       *

1924. _Sunday_.--1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton and caper
sauce, mashed turnips, roast fowls, and bacon. 3. Damson tart made with
bottled fruit, ratafia pudding.

1925. _Monday_.--1. The remainder of fowl curried and served with rice;
rump-steaks and oyster sauce, cold mutton. 2. Rolled jam pudding.

1926. _Tuesday_.--1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was
boiled in on Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire pudding,
brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Cheese.

1927. _Wednesday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and
mashed potatoes: if there is any cold boiled mutton left, cut it into
neat slices and warm it in a little caper sauce. 3. Apple tart.

1928. _Thursday_.--1. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, stewed beef and
vegetables, made with the remains of cold beef and bones. 2. Macaroni.

1929. _Friday_.--1. Roast leg of pork, sage and onions and apple sauce;
greens and potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs instead of pudding.
Cheese and water-cresses.

1930. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, cold pork and
mashed potatoes. 2. Baked rice pudding.

MARCH.

1931.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course._

                    Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup,
                          removed by
                      Salmon and dressed
                           Cucumber.

  Red Mullet.           Vase of         Filets of Whitings.
                        Flowers.

                       Spring Soup,
                        removed by
                  Boiled Turbot and Lobster
                         Sauce.

  _Entrées_

                    Fricasseed Chicken.

  Vol-au-Vent.          Vase of         Compôte of Pigeons.
                        Flowers.

                     Larded Sweetbreads.

  _Second Course._

                        Fore-quarter of Lamb.

                           Braised Capon.

  Boiled Tongue,        Vase of                  Ham.
    garnished.          Flowers.

                       Roast Fowls.

                     Rump of Beef à la
                       Jardinière.

  _Third Course._

                   Guinea-Fowls, larded,
                        removed by
                     Cabinet Pudding.

   Apricot             Wine Jelly.              Rhubarb
  Tartlets.                                      Tart.

  Custards.             Vase of                Jelly in
                        Flowers.               glasses.

                      Italian Cream.

  Damson Tart.          Ducklings,          Cheesecakes.
                        removed by
                    Nesselrode Pudding.

                     DESSERT AND ICES.


1932.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (March).

  FIRST COURSE.
  White Soup.
  Clear Gravy Soup.
  Boiled Salmon, Shrimp Sauce, and dressed Cucumber.
  Baked Mullets in paper cases.

  ENTREES.
  Filet de Boeuf and Spanish Sauce.
  Larded Sweetbreads.
  Rissoles.
  Chicken Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Fillet of Veal and Béchamel Sauce.
  Boiled Leg of Lamb.
  Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses.
  Boiled Ham, garnished with Carrots and mashed Turnips.
  Vegetables--Sea-kale, Spinach, or Brocoli.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Two Ducklings.
  Guinea-Fowl, larded.
  Orange Jelly.
  Charlotte Russe.
  Coffee Cream.
  Ice Pudding.
  Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese.
  Spinach, garnished with Croutons.


  DESSERT AND ICES.


1933.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (March).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Macaroni Soup.
  Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
  Salmon Cutlets.

  ENTREES.
  Compôte of Pigeons.
  Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Lamb.
  Boiled Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
  Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with spoonfuls of Spinach.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Plum-pudding.
  Ginger Cream.
  Trifle.
  Rhubarb Tart.
  Cheesecakes.
  Fondues, in cases.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1934.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (March).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Calf's-Head Soup.
  Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
  Broiled Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.

  ENTREES.
  Lobster Cutlets.
  Calf's Liver and Bacon, aux fines herbes.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Loin of Veal.
  Two Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel.
  Boiled Knuckle of Ham.
  Vegetables--Spinach or Brocoli.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Wild Ducks.
  Apple Custards.
  Blancmange.
  Lemon Jelly.
  Jam Sandwiches.
  Ice Pudding.
  Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1935.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vermicelli Soup.
  Soles à la Crême.

  ENTREES.
  Veal Cutlets.
  Small Vols-au-Vent.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Small Saddle of Mutton.
  Half Calf's Head.
  Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Orange Jelly.
  Custards, in glasses.
  Rhubarb Tart.
  Lobster Salad.

  DESSERT.


1936.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Julienne Soup.
  Baked Mullets.

  ENTREES.
  Chicken Cutlets.
  Oyster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Lamb and Mint Sauce.
  Boiled Leg of Pork.
  Pease Pudding.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Swiss Cream.
  Lemon Jelly.
  Cheesecakes.
  Rhubarb Tart.
  Macaroni.

  Dessert.


1937.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).--III.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Oyster Soup.
  Boiled Salmon and dressed Cucumber.

  ENTREES.
  Rissoles. Fricasseed Chicken.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce.
  Roast Fowls, garnished with
  Water-cresses.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Charlotte aux Pommes.
  Orange Jelly.
  Lemon Cream.
  Soufflé of Arrowroot.
  Sea-kale.

  DESSERT.


1938.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).--IV.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Ox-tail Soup.
  Boiled Mackerel.

  ENTREES.
  Stewed Mutton Kidneys.
  Minced Veal and Oysters.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Stewed Shoulder of Veal.
  Roast Ribs of Beef and Horseradish Sauce.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Tartlets of Strawberry Jam.
  Cheesecakes.
  Gateau de Riz.
  Carrot Pudding.
  Sea-kale.

  DESSERT.

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MARCH.

1939. _Sunday_.--1. Boiled 1/2 calf's head, pickled pork, the tongue on
a small dish with the brains round it; mutton cutlets and mashed
potatoes. 2. Plum tart made with bottled fruit, baked custard pudding,
Baroness pudding.

1940. _Monday_.--1. Roast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce, brocoli,
baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, and served with
sugar sprinkled over. Cheesecakes.

1941. _Tuesday_.--1. Mock turtle soup, made with liquor that calf's head
was boiled in, and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, rump-steaks and
oyster sauce. 3. Boiled plum-pudding.

1942. _Wednesday_.--1. Fried whitings, melted butter, potatoes. 2.
Boiled beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. 3.
Arrowroot blancmange, and stewed rhubarb.

1943. _Thursday_.--1. Pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in.
2. Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding.

1944. _Friday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Roast loin
of mutton, brocoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Rice pudding.

1945. _Saturday_.--1.--Rump-steak pie, haricot mutton made with remains
of cold loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding.

       *       *       *       *       *

1946. _Sunday_.--1. Roast fillet of veal, boiled ham, spinach and
potatoes. 2. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butter
pudding.

1947. _Monday_.--1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and rump-steak
pie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with the remains of custards poured
round them; marmalade tartlets.

1948. _Tuesday_.--1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashed
turnips, suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal rissoles made with
remains of fillet of veal. 3. Cheese.

1949. _Wednesday_.--1. Stewed mullets. 2. Roast fowls, bacon, gravy, and
bread sauce, mutton pudding, made with a few slices of the cold meat and
the addition of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon pudding.

1950. _Thursday_.--1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton
was boiled in, and mixed with the remains of gravy soup. 2. Roast ribs
of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and potatoes. 3.
Apple pudding or macaroni.

1951. _Friday_.--1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Cold
beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled fruit.

1952. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, broiled beef-bones,
greens and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plum
tart, baked custard pudding.

APRIL.

1953.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course._

                         Spring Soup,
                          removed by
                   Salmon and Lobster Sauce.

  Fillet of Mackerel.   Vase of          Fried Smelts.
                        Flowers.

                    Soles a la Crême.

  _Entrées._

              Lamb Cutlets and Asparagus Peas.

  Curried Lobster.       Vase of         Oyster Patties.
                         Flowers.

                     Grenadines de Veau.

  _Second Course._

                   Roast Ribs of Lamb.

                      Larded Capon.

  Stewed Beef A la      Vase of             Boiled Ham.
  Jardinière.           Flowers.

                     Spring Chickens.

                     Braised Turkey.

  _Third Course._

                           Ducklings,
                           removed by
                         Cabinet Pudding.

  Clear Jelly.  Charlotte a la Parisienne.  Orange Jelly.

  Raspberry Jam Turtles.   Vase of          Cheese-Cakes.
  Victoria Sandwiches.     Flowers.         Rhubarb Tart.

                        Raspberry Cream.

                       Nesselrode Pudding.


                        DESSERT AND ICES.


1954.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (April).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Soup à la Reine.
  Julienne Soup.
  Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
  Slices of Salmon a la Genévése.

  ENTREES.
  Croquettes of Leveret.
  Fricandeau de Veau.
  Vol-au-Vent.
  Stewed Mushrooms.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Fore-quarter of Lamb.
  Saddle of Mutton.
  Boiled Chickens and Asparagus Peas.
  Boiled Tongue garnished with Tufts of Brocoli.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings. Larded Guinea-Fowls.
  Charlotte a la Parisienne.
  Orange Jelly.
  Meringues.
  Ratafia Ice Pudding.
  Lobster Salad.
  Sea-kale.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1955.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (April).

  FIRST COURSE
  Gravy Soup.
  Salmon and Dressed Cucumber.
  Shrimp Sauce.
  Fillets of Whitings.

  ENTREES.
  Lobster Cutlets.
  Chicken Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Fillet of Veal.
  Boiled Leg of Lamb.
  Ham, garnished with Brocoli.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Compôte of Rhubarb.
  Custards.
  Vanilla Cream.
  Orange Jelly.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Ice Pudding.

  DESSERT.


1956.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (April).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Spring Soup.
  Slices of Salmon and Caper Sauce.
  Fried Filleted Soles.

  ENTREES.
  Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
  Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Loin of Veal.
  Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel.
  Tongue.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Guinea-Fowl.
  Sea-kale.
  Artichoke Bottoms.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Blancmange.
  Apricot Tartlets.
  Rice Fritters.
  Macaroni and Parmesan Cheese.

  DESSERT.


1957.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Tapioca Soup.
  Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Sweetbreads.
  Oyster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Haunch of Mutton.
  Boiled Capon and White Sauce.
  Tongue.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Soufflé of Rice.
  Lemon Cream.
  Charlotte & la Parisienne.
  Rhubarb Tart.


  DESSERT.


1958.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Julienne Soup.
  Fried Whitings.
  Red Mullet.

  ENTREES.
  Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
  Rissoles.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Ribs of Beef.
  Neck of Veal à la Béchamel.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Lemon Pudding.
  Rhubarb Tart.
  Custards.
  Cheesecakes.

  DESSERT.


1959.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).--III.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vermicelli Soup.
  Brill and Shrimp Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Fricandeau of Veal.
  Lobster Cutlets.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb.
  Boiled Chickens.
  Tongue.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Goslings.

  Sea-kale.
  Plum-pudding.
  Whipped Cream.
  Compôte of Rhubarb.
  Cheesecakes.

  DESSERT.


1960.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).--IV.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Ox-tail Soup.
  Crimped Salmon.

  ENTREES.
  Croquettes of Chicken.
  Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Fillet of Veal.
  Boiled Bacon-cheek garnished with Sprouts.
  Boiled Capon. Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Sea-kale. Lobster Salad.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Ginger Cream.
  Raspberry Jam Tartlets.
  Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni.


  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR APRIL.

1961. _Sunday._--1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton,
sea-kale, potatoes. 3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses.

1962. _Monday._--1. Crimped skate and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of
veal and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum-pudding.

1963. _Tuesday._--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made from
remains of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding.

1964. _Wednesday._--1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef,
carrots, suet dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding.

1965. _Thursday._--1. Pea-soup made with liquor that beef was boiled in.
2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3.
Macaroni.

1966. _Friday._--1. Bubble-and-squeak, made with remains of cold beef.
Roast shoulder of veal stuffed, spinach, potatoes. 2. Boiled batter
pudding and sweet sauce.

1967. _Saturday._--1. Stewed veal with vegetables, made from the remains
of the shoulder. Broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2.
Yeast-dumplings.

       *       *       *       *       *

1968. _Sunday._--1. Boiled salmon and dressed cucumber, anchovy sauce 2.
Roast fore-quarter of lamb, spinach, potatoes, mint sauce. 2. Rhubarb
tart, cheesecakes.

1969. _Monday._--1. Curried salmon, made with remains of salmon, dish of
boiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, potatoes. 3.
Spinach and poached eggs.

1970. _Tuesday._--1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiled
neck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Baked
rice-pudding.

1971. _Wednesday._--1. Boiled mackerel and melted butter or fennel
sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon, and greens. 3. Fig
pudding.

1972. _Thursday._--1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli,
potatoes; veal rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. Boiled rhubarb
pudding.

1973. _Friday._--1. Irish stew or haricot, made from cold mutton, minced
veal. 2. Half-pay pudding.

1974. _Saturday._--1. Rump-steak pie, broiled mutton-chops. 2. Baked
arrowroot pudding.

MAY.

1975.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course._

                      Asparagus Soup,
                        removed by
                    Salmon and Lobster
                          Sauce.

  Fried Filleted        Vase of        Fillets of Mackerel,
      Soles             Flowers.       à la Maître d'Hôtel.

                      Oxtail Soup,
                       removed by
                   Brill & Shrimp Sauce.

  _Entrées._

                    Lamb Cutlets and
                       Cucumbers.

  Lobster Pudding.      Vase of            Curried Fowl.
                        Flowers.

                      Veal Ragoût.

  _Second Course._

                    Saddle of Lamb.

                      Raised Pie.

  Roast Fowls.          Vase of          Boiled Capon
                        Flowers.       and White Sauce.

                      Braised Ham.

                      Roast Veal.

  _Third Course._

  Almond               Goslings,          Lobster Salad.
  Cheesecake           removed by
                    College Puddings.

                       Noyeau Jelly.

  Italian               Vase of          Charlotte à la
  Cream.                Flowers.          Parisienne.

                      Inlaid Jelly.

  Plovers'            Ducklings,
  Eggs.               removed by            Tartlets.
                   Nesselrode Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1976.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (May).

  FIRST COURSE.
  White Soup.
  Asparagus Soup.
  Salmon Cutlets. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
  Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
  Fricandeau of Veal.
  Stewed Mushrooms.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Lamb. Haunch of Mutton.
  Boiled and Roast Fowls.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Goslings.
  Charlotte Russe.
  Vanilla Cream.
  Gooseberry Tart. Custards.
  Cheesecakes.
  Cabinet Pudding and Iced Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1977.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (May).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Spring Soup.
  Salmon à la Genévése.
  Red Mullet.

  ENTREES.
  Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
  Calf's Liver and Bacon aux Fines Herbes.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Saddle of Mutton.
  Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
  Braised Ham.
  Asparagus.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Pigeons.
  Ducklings.
  Sponge-cake Pudding.
  Charlotte à la Vanille.
  Gooseberry Tart.
  Cream.
  Cheesecakes.
  Apricot-jam Tart.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1978.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (May).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Julienne Soup.
  Brill and Lobster Sauce.
  Fried Fillets of Mackerel.


  ENTREES
  Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
  Lobster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Fillet of Veal.
  Boiled Leg of Lamb.
  Asparagus.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Gooseberry Tart.
  Custards.
  Fancy Pastry.
  Soufflé.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1979.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vermicelli Soup.
  Boiled Salmon and Anchovy Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Fillets of Beef and Tomato Sauce.
  Sweetbreads.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Lamb.
  Boiled Capon.
  Asparagus.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Compôte of Gooseberries.
  Custards in Glasses.
  Blancmange.
  Lemon Tartlets.
  Fondue.

  DESSERT.


1980.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Macaroni Soup.
  Boiled Mackerel à la Maitre d'Hôtel.
  Fried Smelts.

  ENTREES.
  Scollops of Fowl.
  Lobster Pudding.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach.
  Roast Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Leveret.
  Salad.
  Soufflé of Rice.
  Ramekins.
  Strawberry-jam Tartlets.
  Orange Jelly.

  DESSERT.


1981.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).--III.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Julienne Soup.
  Trout with Dutch Sauce.
  Salmon Cutlets.

  ENTREES.
  Lamb Cutlets and Mushrooms.
  Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Lamb.
  Calf's Head à la Tortue.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Spring Chickens.
  Iced Pudding.
  Vanilla Cream.
  Clear Jelly.
  Tartlets.
  Cheesecakes.

  DESSERT.


1982.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).--IV.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Soup à la Reine.
  Crimped Trout and Lobster Sauce.
  Baked Whitings aux Fines Herbes.

  ENTREES.
  Braised Mutton Cutlets and Cucumbers.
  Stewed Pigeons.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Fillet of Veal.
  Bacon-cheek and Greens.
  Fillet of Beef à la Jardinière.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Ducklings.
  Soufflé à la Vanille.
  Compôte of Oranges.
  Meringues.
  Gooseberry Tart.
  Fondue.

  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MAY.

1983. _Sunday_.--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Saddle of mutton, asparagus and
potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards.

1984. _Monday_.--1. Fried whitings, anchovy sauce. 2. Cold mutton,
mashed potatoes, stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding.

1985. _Tuesday_.--1. Haricot mutton, made from remains of cold mutton,
rump-steak pie. 2. Macaroni.

1986. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast loin of veal and spinach, boiled bacon,
mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding and cream.

1987. _Thursday_.--1. Spring soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, mint sauce,
spinach, curried veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding.

1988. _Friday_.--1. Boiled mackerel and parsley-and-butter. 2. Stewed
rump-steak, cold lamb and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.

1989. _Saturday_.--1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump-steak pudding, lamb cutlets,
and cucumbers. 3. Macaroni.

       *       *       *       *       *

1990. _Sunday_.--1. Boiled salmon and lobster or caper sauce. 2. Roast
lamb, mint sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, gooseberry tart.

1991. _Monday_.--1. Salmon warmed in remains of lobster sauce and
garnished with croûtons. 2. Stewed knuckle of veal and rice, cold lamb
and dressed cucumber. 3. Slices of pudding warmed, and served with sugar
sprinkled over. Baked rice pudding.

1992. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast ribs of beef, horseradish sauce, Yorkshire
pudding, spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding.

1993. _Wednesday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and
dressed cucumber or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. 3. Baked
plum-pudding.

1994. _Thursday_.--1. Spring soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, broiled
beef-bones, spinach and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart.

1995. _Friday_.--1. Roast shoulder of mutton, baked potatoes, onion
sauce, spinach. 2. Currant dumplings.

1996. _Saturday_.--1. Broiled mackerel, fennel sauce or plain melted
butter. 2. Rump-steak pie, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Baked arrowroot
pudding.


JUNE.

1997.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course_.

                      Asparagus Soup,
                       removed by
                      Crimped Salmon.

  Fillets of Garnets.   Vase of      Soles aux fines herbes.
                        Flowers.

                     Vermicelli Soup,
                   removed by Whitebait.

  _Entrées_.

                   Lamb Cutlets and Peas.

  Lobster Patties.      Vase of           Tendrons de Veau
                        Flowers.           à la Jardinière.

                  Larded Sweetbreads.

  _Second Course_.

                     Saddle of Lamb.

                        Tongue.

  Roast Spring          Vase of               Boiled Capon.
   Chickens.            Flowers.

                         Ham.

                   Boiled Calf's Head.

  _Third Course_.

  Prawns.                Leveret,             Tartlets.
                        removed by
                        Ice Pudding.

                        Wine Jelly.

  Vol-au-Vent of Straw-   Vase of             Custards in
  berries and Cream.      Flowers.             glasses.

                         Blancmange.

                          Goslings,
                         removed by
   Cheesecake         Fondues, in cases.      Plover's Eggs.


                     DESSERT AND ICES.


1998.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (June).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Green-Pea Soup.
  Rice Soup.
  Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
  Trout à la Genévése.
  Whitebait.

  ENTREES.
  Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
  Fricasseed Chicken.
  Lobster Rissoles.
  Stewed Veal and Peas.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Quarter of Lamb and Spinach.
  Filet de Boeuf à la Jardinière.
  Boiled Fowls.
  Braised Shoulder of Lamb.
  Tongue.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Goslings.
  Ducklings.
  Nesselrode Pudding.
  Charlotte à la Parisienne.
  Gooseberry Tartlets.
  Strawberry Cream.
  Raspberry-and-Currant Tart.
  Custards.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


1999.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (June).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Julienne Soup.
  Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter.
  Red Mullet.

  ENTREES.
  Stewed Breast of Veal and Peas.
  Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Fillet of Veal.
  Boiled Leg of Lamb, garnished with young Carrots.
  Boiled Bacon-cheek.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Ducks.
  Leveret.
  Gooseberry Tart.
  Strawberry Cream.
  Strawberry Tartlets,
  Meringues.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Iced Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2000.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (June).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vermicelli Soup.
  Trout à la Genévése
  Salmon Cutlets.

  ENTREES.
  Lamb Cutlets and Peas.
  Fricasseed Chicken.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Ribs of Beef.
  Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
  Boiled Ham.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Ducks.
  Compôte of Gooseberries.
  Strawberry Jelly.
  Pastry.
  Iced Pudding.
  Cauliflower with Cream Sauce.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2001.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (June).--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Spring Soup.
  Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.

  ENTREES. Veal Cutlets and Endive.
  Ragoût of Duck and Green Peas.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Loin of Veal.
  Boiled Leg of Lamb and White Sauce.
  Tongue, garnished.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Strawberry Cream.
  Gooseberry Tartlets.
  Almond Pudding.
  Lobster Salad.

  DESSERT.


2002.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Calf's-Head Soup.
  Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.
  Whitebait.

  ENTREES.
  Chicken Cutlets.
  Curried Lobster.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Fore-quarter of Lamb and Salad.
  Stewed Beef à la Jardinière.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Goslings.
  Green-Currant Tart.
  Custards, in glasses.
  Strawberry Blancmange.
  Soufflé of Rice.

  DESSERT.


2003.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).--III.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Green-Pea Soup.
  Baked Soles aux fines herbes.
  Stewed Trout.

  ENTREES.
  Calf's Liver and Bacon.
  Rissoles.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Saddle of Lamb and Salad.
  Calf's Head à la Tortue.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Ducks.
  Vol-au-Vent of Strawberries and Cream.
  Strawberry Tartlets.
  Lemon Blancmange.
  Baked Gooseberry Pudding.

  DESSERT.


2004.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).--IV.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Spinach Soup.
  Soles à la Crême.
  Red Mullet.

  ENTREES.
  Roast Fillet of Veal.
  Braised Ham and Spinach.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Boiled Fowls and White Sauce.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Leveret.
  Strawberry Jelly.
  Swiss Cream.
  Cheesecakes.
  Iced Pudding.

  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JUNE.

2005. _Sunday_.--1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter, new potatoes.
2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and spinach, vegetables.
3. Gooseberry tart, custards.

2006. _Monday_.--1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal,
garnished with rolled bacon, spinach and potatoes.
3. Raspberry-and-currant tart.

2007. _Tuesday_.--1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb,
garnished with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding.

2008. _Wednesday_.--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, peas,
hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.

2009. _Thursday_--1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas,
potatoes. 2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.

2010. _Friday_.--1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2.
Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding.

2011. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak pudding, broiled beef-bones and
cucumber, vegetables. 2. Bread pudding.

       *       *       *       *       *

2012. _Sunday_.--1. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas, and
new potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. Fondue.

2013. _Monday_.--1. Cold lamb and salad, stewed neck of veal and peas,
young carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding.

2014. _Tuesday_.--1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas
and new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding.

2015. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2.
Gooseberry and rice pudding.

2016. _Thursday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2.
Sweetbreads, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter pudding.

2017. _Friday_.--1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, young carrots and
new potatoes, suet dumplings. 3. College puddings.

2018. _Saturday_.--1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets and green
peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream.


JULY.

2019.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course_.

                     Green-Pea Soup,
                       removed by
                    Salmon and dressed
                        Cucumber.

  Whitebait.            Vase of               Stewed Trout
                        Flowers.

                     Soup à la Reine,
                       removed by
                  Mackerel à la Maitre
                        d'Hôtel.

  _Entrées_

                     Lamb Cutlets and
                          Peas.


  Lobster Curry         Vase of                Scollops of
  en Casserole.         Flowers.                 Chickens.

                     Chicken Patties.

  _Second Course_.

                    Haunch of Venison.

                      Pigeon Pie.

  Boiled Capons.        Vase of           Spring Chickens.
                        Flowers.

                      Braised Ham.

                      Saddle of Lamb.

  _Third Course_.

  Prawns.              Roast Ducks,            Custards.
                        removed by       Vanilla Soufflé.
                     Raspberry Cream.

  Cherry Tart.          Vase of            Raspberry-and-
                        Flowers.            Currant Tart.

                   Strawberry Cream.

                     Green Goose,
                      removed by
  Creams.            Iced Pudding.              Tartlets.


  DESSERT AND ICES.


2020.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (July).

  FIRST COURSE.

  Soup à la Jardinière.
  Chicken Soup.
  Crimped Salmon and Parsley-and-Butter.
  Trout aux fines herbes, in cases.

  ENTREES.
  Tendrons de Veau and Peas.
  Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Loin of Veal à la Béchamel.
  Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb.
  Salad.
  Braised Ham, garnished with Broad Beans.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Ducks.
  Turkey Poult.
  Stewed Peas à la Francaise.
  Lobster Salad.
  Cherry Tart.
  Raspberry-and-Currant Tart.
  Custards, in glasses.
  Lemon Creams.
  Nesselrode Pudding.
  Marrow Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2021.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (July)

  FIRST COURSE.
  Green-Pea Soup.
  Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
  Crimped Perch and Dutch Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Stewed Veal and Peas.
  Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Haunch of Venison.
  Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel.
  Braised Ham.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Ducks.
  Peas à la Française.
  Lobster Salad.
  Strawberry Cream.
  Blancmange.
  Cherry Tart.
  Cheesecakes.
  Iced Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2022.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Soup à la Jardinière.
  Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter.
  Fillets of Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.

  ENTREES.
  Lobster Cutlets.
  Beef Palates à la Italienne.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Lamb.
  Boiled Capon and White Sauce.
  Boiled Tongue, garnished with small Vegetable Marrows.
  Bacon and Beans.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Goslings.
  Whipped Strawberry Cream.
  Raspberry-and-Currant Tart.
  Meringues.
  Cherry Tartlets.
  Iced Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2023.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Julienne Soup.
  Crimped Salmon and Caper Sauce.
  Whitebait.

  ENTREES.
  Croquettes à la Reine.
  Curried Lobster.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Lamb.
  Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Larded Turkey Poult.
  Raspberry Cream.
  Cherry Tart.
  Custards, in glasses.
  Gâteaux à la Genévése.
  Nesselrode Pudding.

  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JULY.

2024. _Sunday_.--1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. 2. Roast fillet
of real, boiled bacon-cheek, peas, potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant
tart, baked custard pudding.

2025. _Monday_.--1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast fowls garnished with
water-cresses; gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry tart.

2026. _Tuesday_.--1. John dory and lobster sauce. 2. Curried fowl with
remains of cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with remains of cold
fillet. 3. Strawberry cream.

2027. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast leg of mutton, vegetable marrow, and
potatoes, melted butter. 2. Black-currant pudding.

2028. _Thursday_.--1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets and
tomato sauce, bashed mutton, peas, potatoes. 3. Lemon dumplings.

2029. _Friday_.--1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet
dumplings, peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding.

2030. _Saturday_.--1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2.
Rolled jam pudding.

       *       *       *       *       *

2031. _Sunday_.--1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half calf's head,
tongue and brains, boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart,
custards.

2032. _Monday_.--1. Hashed calf's head, cold lamb and salad. 2.
Vegetable marrow and white sauce, instead of pudding.

2033. _Tuesday_.--1. Stewed veal, with peas, young carrots, and
potatoes. Small meat pie. 2. Raspberry-and-currant pudding.

2034. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes;
the remains of stewed veal rechauffé. 2. Macaroni served as a sweet
pudding.

2035. _Thursday_.--1. Slices of salmon and caper sauce. 2. Boiled
knuckle of veal, parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and potatoes. 3.
Black-currant pudding.

2036. _Friday_.--1. Roast shoulder of mutton, onion sauce, peas and
potatoes. 2. Cherry tart, baked custard pudding.

2037. _Saturday_.--1. Minced mutton, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding. 2.
Baked lemon pudding.


AUGUST.

2038.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course._

                  Mock-Turtle Soup,
                     removed by
                 Broiled Salmon and
                    Caper Sauce.


    Red Mullet.       Vase of           Perch.
                      Flowers.

                Soup à la Julienne,
                     removed by
               Brill and Shrimp Sauce.

  _Entrées._

                   Fricandeau de Veau
                    à la Jardinière.

  Curried Lobster.      Vase of        Lamb Cutlets à la Purée
                        Flowers.          de Pommes de Terre.

                    Fillets of Ducks
                        and Peas.

  _Second Course._

                  Haunch of Venison.

                   Ham, garnished.

  Capon à la          Vase of             Roast Fowl.
  Financière          Flowers.

                   Leveret Pie.

                  Saddle of Mutton.

  _Third Course._

                        Grouse,
                       removed by
                    Cabinet Pudding.

    Lobster Salad.    Fruit Jelly.     Cheesecakes.

    Charlotte à la      Vase of          Custards.
       Vanille.         Flowers.

    Raspberry          Vol-au-Vent         Prawns.
    Tartlets.           of Pears.

                      Larded Peahen,
                        removed by
                       Iced Pudding.


  DESSERT AND ICES.


2039.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (August)

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vermicelli Soup.
  Soup à la Reine.
  Boiled Salmon.
  Fried Flounders.
  Trout en Matelot.

  ENTREES.
  Stewed Pigeons.
  Sweetbreads.
  Ragoût of Ducks.
  Fillets of Chickens and Mushrooms.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Quarter of Lamb.
  Cotelette de Boeuf à la Jardinière.
  Roast Fowls and Boiled Tongue.
  Bacon and Beans.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Grouse.
  Wheatears.
  Greengage Tart.
  Whipped Cream.
  Vol-au-Vent of Plums.
  Fruit Jelly.
  Iced Pudding.
  Cabinet Pudding.

  DESSERTS AND ICES.


2040.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (August).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Julienne Soup.
  Fillets of Turbot and Dutch Sauce.
  Red Mullet.

  ENTREES.
  Riz de Veau aux Tomates.
  Fillets of Ducks and Peas.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Haunch of Venison.
  Boiled Capon and Oysters.
  Ham, garnished.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Leveret.
  Fruit Jelly.
  Compote of Greengages.
  Plum Tart. Custards, in glasses.
  Omelette soufflé.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2041.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Macaroni Soup.
  Crimped Salmon and Sauce Hollandaise.
  Fried Fillets of Trout.

  ENTREES.
  Tendrons de Veau and Stewed Peas.
  Salmi of Grouse.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Loin of Veal.
  Boiled Bacon, garnished with French Beans.
  Stewed Beef à la Jardinière.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Turkey Poult.
  Plum Tart.
  Custard Pudding.
  Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
  Strawberry Cream.
  Ratafia Soufflé.

  DESSERT.


2042.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vegetable-Marrow Soup.
  Stowed Mullet.
  Fillets of Salmon and Ravigotte Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Curried Lobster.
  Fricandeau de Veau à la Jardinière.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Saddle of Mutton.
  Stewed Shoulder of Veal, garnished with Forcemeat Balls.
                Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Grouse and Bread Sauce.
  Vol-au-Vent of Greengages.
  Fruit Jolly.
  Raspberry Cream.
  Custards.
  Fig Pudding.

  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR AUGUST.

2043. _Sunday_.--1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Roast quarter of lamb,
mint sauce, French beans and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart,
custard pudding.

2044. _Monday_.--1. Cold lamb and salad, small meat pie, vegetable
marrow and white sauce. 2. Lemon dumplings.

2045. _Tuesday_.--1. Boiled mackerel. 2. Stewed loin of veal, French
beans and potatoes. 3. Baked raspberry pudding.

2046. _Wednesday_.--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Lamb cutlets and French beans;
the remains of stewed shoulder of veal, mashed vegetable marrow. 3.
Black-currant pudding.

2047. _Thursday_.--1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, French
beans and potatoes. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding.

2048. _Friday_.--1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Cold beef and
salad, lamb cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflowers and white sauce
instead of pudding.

2049. _Saturday_.--1. Stewed beef and vegetables, with remains of cold
beef; mutton pudding. 2. Macaroni and cheese.

       *       *       *       *       *

2050. _Sunday_.--1. Salmon pudding. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled
bacon-cheek garnished with tufts of cauliflowers, French beans and
potatoes. 3. Plum tart, boiled custard pudding.

2051. _Monday_.--1. Baked soles. 2. Cold veal and bacon, salad, mutton
cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant pudding.

2052. _Tuesday_.--1. Rice soup. 2. Roast fowls and water-cresses, boiled
knuckle of ham, minced veal garnished with croutons; vegetables. 3.
College puddings.

2053. _Wednesday_.--1. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowl; dish of
rice, stewed rump-steak and vegetables. 2. Plum tart.

2054. _Thursday_.--1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet
dumplings, and potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding.

2055. _Friday_.--1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was
boiled in. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber, veal cutlets and tomato
sauce. 3. Fondue.

2056. _Saturday_.--1. Bubble-and-squeak, made from remains of cold beef;
cold veal-and-ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry pudding.


SEPTEMBER.

2057.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course_.

                      Julienne Soup,
                       removed by
                  Brill and Shrimp Sauce.

  Red Mullet &          Vase of                Fried Eels.
  Italian Sauce.        Flowers.

                       Giblet Soup,
                        removed by
                 Salmon and Lobster Sauce.

  _Entrées_.

                    Lamb Cutlets and
                      French Beans.

  Fillets of Chicken    Vase of         Oysters au gratin.
    and Truffles.       Flowers.

                    Sweetbreads and
                     Tomata Sauce.

  _Second Course_.

                   Saddle of Mutton.

                   Veal-and-Ham Pie.

  Chickens à la         Vase of             Braised Goose.
   Béchamel.            Flowers.

                Broiled Ham, garnished
                  with Cauliflowers.

                     Filet of Veal.

  _Third Course_.

  Custards.           Partridges,              Apple Tart.
                     removed by
                     Plum-pudding.

                 Compôte of Greengages.

  Noyeau Jelly.         Vase of               Lemon Cream.
                        Flowers.

                   Pastry Sandwiches.

                  Grouse & Bread Sauce,
                       removed by
  Plum Tart.        Nesselrode Pudding.         Custards.


  DESSERTS AND ICES.


2058.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (September).

  FIRST COURSE.

  Mock-Turtle Soup.
  Soup à la Jardinière
  Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
  Fried Whitings.
  Stewed Eels.

  ENTREES.
  Veal Cutlets.
  Scalloped Oysters.
  Curried Fowl.
  Grilled Mushrooms.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Haunch of Mutton.
  Boiled Calf's Head à la Béchamel.
  Braised Ham.
  Roast Fowls aux Cressons.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Leveret.
  Grouse.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Iced Pudding.
  Compôte of Plumbs.
  Damson Tart.
  Cream.
  Fruit Jelly.
  Prawns.
  Lobster Salad.


  DESSERTS AND ICES.


2059.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (September).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Flemish Soup.
  Turbot, garnished with Fried Smelts.
  Red Mullet and Italian Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Tendrons de Veau and Truffles.
  Lamb Cutlets and Sauce Piquante.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Loin of Veal à la Béchamel.
  Roast Haunch of Venison.
  Braised Ham.
  Grouse Pie.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Hare.
  Plum Tart.
  Whipped Cream.
  Punch Jelly.
  Compôte of Damsons.
  Marrow Pudding.

  DESSERT.


2060.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Game Soup.
  Crimped Skate.
  Slices of Salmon a la Genévése.

  ENTREES.
  Fricasseed Sweetbreads.
  Savoury Rissoles.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce.
  Boiled Leg of Mutton and Caper Sauce.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Partridges.
  Charlotte Russe.
  Apricots and Rice.
  Fruit Jelly.
  Cabinet Pudding.

  DESSERT.


2061.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Thick Gravy Soup.
  Fillets of Turbot à la Crême.
  Stewed Eels.

  ENTREES.
  Vol-au-Vent of Lobster.
  Salmi of Grouse.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Haunch of Venison.
  Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
  Hare, boned and larded, with Mushrooms.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Grouse.
  Apricot Blancmange.
  Compôte of peaches.
  Plum Tart.
  Custards.
  Plum-pudding.

  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR SEPTEMBER.

2062. _Sunday_.--1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire
pudding, horseradish sauce, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Greengage
pudding, vanilla cream.

2063. _Monday_.--1. Crimped skate and crab sauce. 2. Cold beef and
salad; small veal-and-ham pie. 3. Vegetable marrow and white sauce.

2064. _Tuesday_.--1. Fried solos, melted butter. 2. Boiled fowls,
parsley-and-butter; bacon-check, garnished with French beans; beef
rissoles, made from remains of cold beef. 3. Plum tart and cream.

2065. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled round of beef, carrots, turnips, and suet
dumplings; marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons and rice.

2066. _Thursday_.--1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was
boiled in. 2. Lamb cutlets and cucumbers, cold beef and salad. 3. Apple
pudding.

2067. _Friday_.--1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble-and-squeak, made from cold
beef; veal cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart.

2068. _Saturday_.--1. Irish stew, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2.
Somersetshire dumplings.

       *       *       *       *       *

2069. _Sunday_.--1. Fried filleted soles and anchovy sauce. 2. Roast leg
of mutton, brown onion sauce, French beans, and potatoes; half calf's
head, tongue, and brains. 3. Plum tart; custards, in glasses.

2070. _Monday_.--1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Calf's head à la maitre
d'hôtel, from remains of cold head; boiled brisket of beef and
vegetables. 3. Stewed fruit and baked rice pudding.

1071. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast fowls and water-cresses; boiled bacon,
garnished with tufts of cauliflower; hashed mutton, from remains of
mutton of Sunday. 2. Baked plum-pudding.

2072. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, turnips,
potatoes; small ham, garnished with French beans. 2. Baked apple
pudding.

2073. _Thursday_.--1. Brill and shrimp sauce. 2. Roast hare, gravy, and
red-currant jelly; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Scalloped
oysters, instead of pudding.

2074. _Friday_.--1. Small roast loin of mutton; the remains of hare,
jugged; vegetable marrow and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.

2075. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steaks, broiled, and oyster sauce, mashed
potatoes; veal-and-ham pie,--the ham may be cut from that boiled on
Wednesday, if not all eaten cold for breakfast. 2, Lemon pudding.


OCTOBER.

2076.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course_

                      Mock-Turtle Soup,
                        removed by
                    Crimped Cod and Oyster
                          Sauce.

  Soles à la             Vase of              Red Mullet.
  Normandie.             Flowers.

                      Julienne Soup,
                        removed by
                    John Dory and Dutch
                         Sauce.

  _Entrées_

                 Sweetbreads and Tomata
                         Sauce.

  Oyster Patties.       Vase of           Stewed Mushrooms.
                        Flowers.

                  Fricandeau de Veau and
                      Celery Sauce.

  _Second Course._

                     Roast Saddle of
                        Mutton.

                      Grouse Pie.

  Roast Goose.          Vase of            Boiled Fowls and
                        Flowers.             Oyster Sauce.

                         Ham.

                     Larded Turkey.

  _Third Course._

   Custards.           Pheasants,                 Prawns.
                      removed by
                    Cabinet Pudding.

                     Italian Cream.

  Gâteau de             Vase of                Compôte of
  Pommes.               Flowers.                 Plums.

                      Peach Jelly.

                       Roast Hare,
                       removed by
  Lobster Salad.       Iced Pudding.           Apple Tart.


  DESSERT AND ICES.


2077.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (OCTOBER).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Carrot Soup à la Créci.
  Soup à la Reine.
  Baked Cod.
  Stewed Eels.

  ENTREES.
  Riz de Veau and Tomata Sauce.
  Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.
  Pork Cutlets and Sauce Robert.
  Grilled Mushrooms.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
  Roast Goose.
  Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
  Tongue, garnished.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Grouse.
  Pheasants.
  Quince Jelly.
  Lemon Cream.
  Apple Tart.
  Compote of Peaches.
  Nesselrode Pudding.
  Cabinet Pudding.
  Scalloped Oysters.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2078.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (October).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Calf's-Head Soup.
  Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
  Stewed Eels.

  ENTREES.
  Stewed Mutton Kidneys.
  Curried Sweetbreads.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Boiled Leg of Mutton, garnished with Carrots and Turnips. Roast Goose.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Partridges.
  Fruit Jelly. Italian Cream.
  Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
  Apple Tart.
  Cabinet Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2079.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Hare Soup.
  Broiled Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel.
  Haddocks and Egg Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Veal Cutlets, garnished with French Beans.
  Haricot Mutton.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Haunch of Mutton.
  Boiled Capon and Rice.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Pheasants.
  Punch Jelly. Blancmange.
  Apples à la Portugaise.
  Charlotte à la Vanille.
  Marrow Pudding.

  DESSERT.


2080.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Mock-Turtle Soup.
  Brill and Lobster Sauce.
  Fried Whitings.

  ENTREES.
  Fowl à la Béchamel.
  Oyster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Sucking-Pig.
  Stewed Hump of Beef à la Jardinière.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Grouse.
  Charlotte aux Pommes.
  Coffee Cream.
  Cheesecakes.
  Apricot Tart.
  Iced Pudding.

  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR OCTOBER.

2081. _Sunday_.--1. Roast sucking-pig, tomata sauce and brain sauce;
small boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and carrots. 2. Damson
tart, boiled batter pudding.

2082. _Monday_.--1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that mutton was
boiled in. 2. Sucking-pig en blanquette, small meat pie, French beans,
and potatoes. 3. Pudding, pies.

2083. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast partridges, bread sauce, and gravy; slices of
mutton warmed in caper sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked plum-pudding.

2084. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, vegetable
marrow, and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.

2085. _Thursday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and
salad; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Macaroni.

2086. _Friday_.--1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce;
bacon-check, garnished with greens; beef rissoles, from remains of cold
beef. 3. Baroness pudding.

2087. _Saturday_.--1. Curried fowl, from remains of cold ditto; dish of
rice, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Stewed pears and
sponge cakes.

       *       *       *       *       *

2088. _Sunday_.--1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast haunch of
mutton, brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. Bullace pudding, baked
custards in cups.

2089. _Monday_.--1. The remains of codfish, flaked, and warmed in a
maître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Cold mutton and salad, veal cutlets and rolled
bacon, French beans and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange and stewed
damsons. 2090. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly;
hashed mutton, vegetables. 2. Currant dumplings.

2091. _Wednesday_.--1. Jugged hare, from remains of roast ditto; boiled
knuckle of veal and rice; boiled bacon-cheek. 2. Apple pudding.

2092. _Thursday_.--1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, greens, and
potatoes. 2. Rice snowballs.

2093. _Friday_.--1. Slices of pork, broiled, and tomata sauce, mashed
potatoes; roast pheasants, bread sauce, and gravy. 2. Baked apple
pudding.

2094. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak pie, sweetbreads. 2. Ginger pudding.


NOVEMBER.
2095.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course._

                     Thick Grouse Soup,
                       removed by
                   Crimped Cod and Oyster
                         Sauce.

  Baked Whitings.       Vase of              Fried Smelts.
                        Flowers.

                    Clear Ox-tail Soup,
                       removed by
                  Fillets of Turbot à la
                         Crême.

  _Entrées._

                   Poulet à la Marengo.

  Fillets of Leveret.    Vase of         Ragoût of Lobster.
                         Flowers.

                     Mushrooms sautés.

   _Second Course._


                    Haunch of Mutton.

                     Cold Game Pie.

  Lark Pudding.         Vase of             Roast Fowls.
                        Flowers.

                       Boiled Ham.

                Boiled Turkey and Celery
                         Sauce.

  _Third Course._

  Apple Tart.           Partridges,             Shell-Fish.
                        removed by
                       Plum-pudding.

                       Wine Jelly.

  Pommes à la           Vase of                Vol-au-Vent
     Condé.             Flowers.                of Pears.

                        Snipes,
                       removed by
                 Prawns.            Charlotte glacée.      Apricot
                Tartlets.


  DESSERT AND ICES.


2096.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (November).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Hare Soup.
  Julienne Soup.
  Baked Cod.
  Soles à la Normandie.

  ENTREES.
  Riz de Veau aux Tomates.
  Lobster Patties.
  Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce.
  Croûtades of Marrow aux fines herbes.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Sirloin of Beef.
  Braised Goose.
  Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
  Bacon-cheek, garnished with Sprouts.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Wild Ducks.
  Partridges.
  Apples à la Portugaise.
  Bavarian Cream.
  Apricot-jam Sandwiches.
  Cheesecakes.
  Charlotte à la Vanille.
  Plum-pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2097.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Mulligatawny Soup.
  Fried slices of Codfish and Oyster Sauce.
  Eels en Matelote.

  ENTREES.
  Broiled Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.
  Tendrons de Veau à la Jardinière.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables.
  Roast Goose.
  Cold Game Pie.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Snipes.
  Teal.
  Apple Soufflé.
  Iced Charlotte.
  Tartlets.
  Champagne Jelly.
  Coffee Cream.
  Mince Pies.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2098.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Oyster Soup.
  Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
  Fried Perch and Dutch Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Pigs' Feet à la Béchamel.
  Curried Rabbit.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Sucking-Pig.
  Boiled Fowls and Oyster Sauce.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Jugged Hare.
  Meringues à la Crême.
  Apple Custard.
  Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
  Whipped Cream.
  Cabinet Pudding.

  DESSERT.


2099.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Game Soup.
  Slices of Codfish and Dutch Sauce.
  Fried Eels.

  ENTREES.
  Kidneys à la Maître d'Hôtel.
  Oyster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Saddle of Mutton.
  Boiled Capon and Rice.
  Small Ham.
  Lark Pudding.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Hare.
  Apple Tart.
  Pineapple Cream.
  Clear Jelly.
  Cheesecakes.
  Marrow Pudding.
  Nesselrode Pudding.

  DESSERT.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR NOVEMBER.

2100. _Sunday_.--1. White soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, haricot
beans, potatoes. 3. Apple tart, ginger pudding.

2101. _Monday._--1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal cutlets garnished with rolled
bacon; cold mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice pudding.

2102. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; boiled
bacon-cheek; hashed mutton from remains of haunch. 2. Apple pudding.

2103. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled leg of pork, carrots, parsnips, and
pease-pudding; fowl croquettes made with remainder of cold fowl. 2.
Baroness pudding.

2104. _Thursday_.--1. Cold pork and mashed potatoes; roast partridges,
bread sauce and gravy. 2. The remainder of pudding cut into neat slices,
and warmed through, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over; apple
fritters.

2105. _Friday_.--1. Roast hare, gravy, and currant jelly; rump-steak and
oyster sauce; vegetables. 2. Macaroni.

2106. _Saturday_.--1. Jugged hare; small mutton pudding. 2. Fig pudding.

       *       *       *       *       *

2107. _Sunday_.--1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast fowls, small
boiled ham, vegetables; rump-steak pie. 3. Baked apple pudding, open jam
tart.

2108. _Monday_.--1. The remainder of cod warmed in maître d'hôtel sauce.
2. Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, suet dumplings. 3. Baked
bread-and-butter pudding.

2109. _Tuesday_.--1. Pea-soup, made from liquor in which beef was
boiled. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce.
3. Carrot pudding.

2110. _Wednesday_.--1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Roast leg of
pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 3. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese.

2111. _Thursday_.--1. Bubble-and-squeak from remains of cold beef;
curried pork. 2. Baked Semolina pudding.

2112. _Friday_.--1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions,
potatoes. 2. Apple tart.

2113. _Saturday_.--1. Hashed mutton; boiled rabbit and onion sauce;
vegetables. 2. Damson pudding made with bottled fruit.


DECEMBER.

2114.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

  _First Course_.

                    Mock-Turtle Soup,
                       removed by
                Cod's Head and Shoulders
                   and Oyster Sauce.

  Stewed Eels.          Vase of           Fried Whitings.
                        Flowers.

                      Julienne Soup,
                        removed by
                  Soles aux fines herbes.

  _Entrées_.

                   Fillets of Grouse and
                     Sauce Piquante.

  Curried Lobster.      Vase of          Mutton Cutlets and
                        Flowers.           Soubise Sauce.

                      Sweetbreads.

  _Second Course_.

                    Haunch of Mutton.

                     Ham and Brussels
                         Sprouts.

  Roast Goose.          Vase of            Stewed Beef à la
                        Flowers.              Jardinière.

                        Game Pie.

                   Boiled Turkey and
                      Celery Sauce.

  _Third Course_.

  Apricot Torte.        Pheasants,               Victoria
                        removed by              Sandwiches.

                       Plum-pudding.

                       Vanilla Cream.

  Lemon Jelly.          Vase of           Champagne Jelly.
                        Flowers.

                       Blancmange.

                        Wild Ducks,
                        removed by
  Tipsy Cake.          Iced Pudding.           Mince Pies.


  DESSERT AND ICES.


2115.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (December).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Game Soup.
  Clear Vermicelli Soup.
  Codfish au gratin.
  Fillets of Whitings à la Maître d'Hôtel.

  ENTREES.
  Filet de Boeuf and Sauce Piquante.
  Fricasseed Chicken.
  Oyster Patties.
  Curried Rabbit.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Turkey and Sausages.
  Boiled Leg of Pork and Vegetables.
  Roast Goose.
  Stewed Beef à la Jardinière.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Widgeon.
  Partridges.
  Charlotte aux Pommes.
  Mince Pies.
  Orange Jelly.
  Lemon Cream.
  Apple Tart.
  Cabinet Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2116.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (December).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Mulligatawny Soup.
  Fried Slices of Codfish.
  Soles à la Crême.

  ENTREES.
  Croquettes of Fowl.
  Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Ribs of Beef.
  Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
  Tongue, garnished.
  Lark Pudding. Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Roast Hare. Grouse.
  Plum-pudding. Mince Pies.
  Charlotte à la Parisienne.
  Cheesecakes.
  Apple Tart.
  Nesselrode Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2117.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (December).

  FIRST COURSE.
  Carrot Soup.
  Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
  Baked Soles.

  ENTREES.
  Mutton Kidneys à la Française.
  Oyster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Boiled Beef and Vegetables.
  Marrow-bones.
  Roast Fowls and Water-cresses
  Tongue, garnished.
  Game Pie.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Partridges.
  Blancmange.
  Compôte of Apples.
  Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
  Almond Cheesecakes.
  Lemon Pudding.

  DESSERT AND ICES.


2118.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).--I.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Rabbit Soup.
  Brill and Shrimp Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Curried Fowl. Oyster Patties.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Turkey and Sausages.
  Boiled Leg of Pork. Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Hunters' Pudding.
  Lemon Cheesecakes.
  Apple Tart. Custards, in glasses.
  Raspberry Cream.

  DESSERT.


2119.--DINNER FOR, 6 PERSONS (December).--II.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Ox-tail Soup.
  Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.

  ENTREES.
  Savoury Rissoles.
  Fowl Scollops à la Béchamel.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Haunch of Mutton.
  Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce.
  Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Snipes.
  Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes.
  Apples à la Portugaise.
  Apricot-jam Tartlets.
  Soufflé of Rice.

  DESSERT.


2120.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).--III.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Vermicelli Soup.
  Soles à la Maître d'Hôtel.
  Fried Eels.

  ENTREES.
  Pork Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
  Ragoût of Mutton à la Jardinière.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Goose.
  Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Pheasants.
  Whipped Cream.
  Meringues. Compôte of Normandy Pippins.
  Mince Pies. Plum-pudding.

  Dessert.


2121.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).--IV.

  FIRST COURSE.
  Carrot Soup.
  Baked Cod.
  Fried Smelts.

  ENTREES.
  Stewed Rump-steak à la Jardinière.
  Fricasseed Chicken.

  SECOND COURSE.
  Roast Leg of Mutton, boned and stuffed.
  Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce.
  Vegetables.

  THIRD COURSE.
  Wild Ducks.
  Fancy Pastry.
  Lemon Cream.
  Damson Tart, with bottled fruit.
  Custards, in glasses.
  Cabinet Pudding.

  Dessert.


PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR DECEMBER.

2122. _Sunday_.--1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast beef, horseradish sauce,
vegetables. 3. Plum-pudding, mince pies.

2123. _Monday._--1. Fried whitings, melted butter. 2. Rabbit pie, cold
beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding cut in slices and warmed; apple
tart.

2124. _Tuesday_.--1. Hashed beef and broiled bones, pork cutlets and
tomata sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding.

2125. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled neck of mutton and vegetables; the broth
served first with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in it 2. Bakewell
pudding.

2126. _Thursday_.--1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 2.
Rice snowballs.

2127. _Friday_.--1. Soles à la Crime. 2. Cold pork and mashed potatoes,
broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam pudding.

2128. _Saturday_.--1. The remains of cold pork curried, dish of rice,
mutton cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings.

       *       *       *       *       *

2129. _Sunday_.--1. Roast turkey and sausages, boiled leg of pork, pease
pudding, vegetables. 2. Baked apple pudding, mince pies.

2130. _Monday_.--1. Hashed turkey, cold pork, mashed potatoes. 2.
Mince-meat pudding.

2131. _Tuesday_.--1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which pork was boiled.
2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce, vegetables. 3. Baked rice pudding.

2132. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions,
potatoes. 2. Baked rolled jam pudding.

2133. _Thursday_.--1. Baked cod's head. 2. Cold mutton, roast hare,
gravy and red-currant jelly. 3. Macaroni.

2134. _Friday_.--1. Hare soup, made with stock and remains of roast
hare. 2. Hashed mutton, pork cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 3. Open
tarts, rice blancmange.

2135. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2.
Mince pies, baked apple dumplings.


2136.--BILL OF FARE FOR A GAME DINNER FOR 30 PERSONS (November).

  _First course_.

                      Hare Soup.

  Purée of Grouse.      Vase of            Pheasant Soup.
                        Flowers.

                   Soup á la Reine.

  _Entrées_.

  Salmi of            Fillets of Hare             Salmi of
  Widgeon.             en Chevereuil.            Woodcock.

                     Perdrixaux Choux.

  Lark Pudding.         Vase of               Game Patties.
                        Flowers.

                     Curried Rabbit.

  Salmi of          Fillet of Pheasant            Salmi of
  Woodcock.           and Truffles.               Widgeon.

  _Second Course_.

  Larded Pheasants.
  Leveret, larded and
   stuffed.

  Cold Pheasant Pie     Vase of           Hot raised Pie of
   á la Périgord.       Flowers.             mixed Game.

                        Grouse.

                   Larded Partridges.

  _Third Course_.

  Snipes.               Pintails.                Ortolans.

                        Quails.

  Golden                Vase of                   Widgeon.
  Plovers.              Flowers.

                         Teal.

  Wild Duck.            Woodcock.                  Snipes.

  _Entremets and Removes_.

  Apricot         Boudin à la Nesselrode.         Maids of
  Tart.                                            Honour.

                     Dantzic Jelly.

  Vol-au-Vent           Vase of                  Gâteau.
   of Pears.            Flowers.            Génoise glacé.

                     Charlotte Russe.

  Maids of            Plum Pudding.           Compôte of
   Honour.                                      Apples.

  _Dessert._

  Olives.              Strawberry-Ice           Figs.
                          Cream.

  Preserved             Pineapples.              Dried
  Cherries.                                      Fruit.
                         Grapes.

  Filberts.               Pears.               Walnuts.
   Wafers.                                     Biscuits.

  Ginger-Ice Cream.     Vase of           Orange-Water Ice.
                        Flowers.

                        Apples.

  Dried                 Grapes.                  Preserved
  Fruit.                                         Cherries.
                        Pears.

  Figs.              Lemon-Water Ice.            Olives.


MENU.

2137.--SERVICE A LA RUSSE (July).

  Julienne Soup.
  Vermicelli Soup.


  Boiled Salmon.
  Turbot and Lobster Sauce.

  Soles-Water Souchy.
  Perch-Water Souchy.

  Matelote d'Anguilles à la Toulouse.
  Filets de Soles à la Normandie.

  Red Mullet.
  Trout.

  Lobster Rissoles.
  Whitebait.


  Riz de Veau à la Banquière.
  Filets de Poulets aux Coucombres.

  Canards à la Rouennaise.
  Mutton Cutlets à la Jardinière.

  Braised Beef à la Flamande.
  Spring Chickens.

  Roast Quarter of Lamb.
  Roast Saddle of Mutton.

  Tongue.
  Ham and Peas.


  Quails, larded.
  Roast Ducks.
  Turkey Poult, larded.

  Mayonnaise of Chicken.
  Tomatas.
  Green Peas à la Française.

  Suédoise of Strawberries.
  Charlotte Russe.
  Compôte of Cherries.

  Neapolitan Cakes.
  Pastry.
  Madeira Wine Jelly.

  Iced Pudding à la Nesselrode.


  DESSERT AND ICES.


_Note._--Dinners à la Russe differ from ordinary dinners in the mode of
serving the various dishes. In a dinner à la Russe, the dishes are cut
up on a sideboard, and handed round to the guests, and each dish may be
considered a course. The table for a dinner à la Russe should be laid
with flowers and plants in fancy flowerpots down the middle, together
with some of the dessert dishes. A menu or bill of fare should be laid
by the side of each guest.


MENU.

2138.--SERVICE A LA RUSSE (November).

  Ox-tail Soup.
  Soup à la Jardinière.

  Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
  Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.

  Stewed Eels.
  Soles à la Normandie.

  Pike and Cream Sauce.
  Fried Filleted Soles.


  Filets de Boeuf à la Jardinière.
  Croquettes of Game aux Champignons.

  Chicken Cutlets.
  Mutton Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.

  Lobster Rissoles.
  Oyster Patties.

  Partridges aux fines herbes.
  Larded Sweetbreads.

  Roast Beef.
  Poulets aux Cressons.

  Haunch of Mutton.
  Roast Turkey.

  Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
  Ham.


  Grouse.
  Pheasants.
  Hare.

  Salad.
  Artichokes.
  Stewed Celery.

  Italian Cream.
  Charlotte aux Pommes.
  Compôte of Pears.

  Croûtes madrées aux Fruits.
  Pastry.
  Punch Jelly.

  Iced Pudding.


  DESSERT AND ICES.


_Note._--Dinners à la Russe are scarcely suitable for small
establishments; a large number of servants being required to carve; and
to help the guests; besides there being a necessity for more plates,
dishes, knives, forks, and spoons, than are usually to be found in any
other than a very large establishment. Where, however, a service à la
Russe is practicable, there it, perhaps, no mode of serving a dinner so
enjoyable as this.


SUPPERS.

2139. Much may be done in the arrangement of a supper-table, at a very
small expense, provided _taste_ and _ingenuity_ are exercised. The
colours and flavours of the various dishes should contrast nicely; there
should be plenty of fruit and flowers on the table, and the room should
be well lighted. We have endeavoured to show how the various dishes may
be placed; but of course these little matters entirely depend on the
length and width of the table used, on individual taste, whether the
tables are arranged round the room, whether down the centre, with a
cross one at the top, or whether the supper is laid in two separate
rooms, &c. &c. The garnishing of the dishes has also much to do with the
appearance of a supper-table. Hams and tongues should be ornamented with
cut vegetable flowers, raised pies with aspic jelly cut in dice, and all
the dishes garnished sufficiently to be in good taste without looking
absurd. The eye, in fact, should be as much gratified as the palate. Hot
soup is now often served at suppers, but is not placed on the table. The
servants fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet, and then hand them
to the guests: when these plates are removed, the business of supper
commences.

2140. Where small rooms and large parties necessitate having a standing
supper, many things enumerated in the following bill of fare may be
placed on the buffet. Dishes for these suppers should be selected which
may be eaten standing without any trouble. The following list may,
perhaps, assist our readers in the arrangement of a buffet for a
standing supper.

2141. Beef, ham, and tongue sandwiches, lobster and oyster patties,
sausage rolls, meat rolls, lobster salad, dishes of fowls, the latter
_all cut up_; dishes of sliced ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef, and
galantine of veal; various jellies, blancmanges, and creams; custards in
glasses, compôtes of fruit, tartlets of jam, and several dishes of small
fancy pastry; dishes of fresh fruit, bonbons, sweetmeats, two or three
sponge cakes, a few plates of biscuits, and the buffet ornamented with
vases of fresh or artificial flowers. The above dishes are quite
sufficient for a standing supper; where more are desired, a supper must
then be laid and arranged in the usual manner.


2142.--BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER FOR 60 PERSONS (For Winter)

                                  Boar's Head,
                          garnished with Aspic Jelly.
  Lobster Salad                                        Lobster Salad.
  Fruited Jelly.             Mayonnaise of Fowl.     Charlotte Russe.

                            Small Ham, garnished.

           Small Pastry.      Iced Savoy Cake.       Biscuits.

           Vanilla Cream     EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT.    Fruited Jelly.

  Two Roast Fowls, cut up.                        Two Roast Fowls, cut up.

           Prawns      Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel   Prawns
                                 Sauce.
           Biscuits                                    Small Pastry
                             Tongue, ornamented.

           Custards,         TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED.         Custards,
          in glasses.                                  in glasses.
                            Raised Chicken Pie.

                               Tipsy Cake
  Lobster Salad.                                         Lobster Salad.
  Fruited Jelly.                                           Swiss Cream.
                              Roast Pheasant.

          Meringues.         EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT.      Meringues.

          Raspberry Cream.    Galantine of Veal.      Fruited Jelly.

                                Tipsy Cake.
          Small Pastry.                              Biscuits.
                               Raised Game Pie.

          Custards,           TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED       Custards,
          in glasses.                                 in glasses.

  Two Roast Fowls, cut up.                      Two Roast Fowls, cut up.
                             Tongue, ornamented.
          Prawns.                                      Prawns.
                     Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel
                                 Sauce.
         Biscuits.                                     Small Pastry.
                              EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT.
  Lobster Salad.                                         Lobster Salad.
        Fruited Jelly.       Iced Savoy Cake.         Blancmange.

                            Small Ham, garnished.

                             Mayonnaise of Fowl.
        Charlotte Russe.                              Fruited Jelly.
                                Larded Capon.


_Note:_ When soup is served from the buffet, Mock Turtle and Julienne
may be selected. Besides the articles enumerated above, Ices, Wafers,
Biscuits, Tea, Coffee, Wines and Liqueurs will be required. Punch a la
Romaine may also be added to the list of beverages.


2143.--BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER,

Or a Cold Collation for a Summer Entertainment, or Wedding or
Christening Breakfast for 70 or 80 Persons (July).

[Illustration: Containing the following--]

  [Columns 1 and 5]
  4 Blancmanges, to be placed down the table.
  4 Jellies, to be placed down the table.
  3 Dishes of Small Pastry.
  3 Fruit Tarts.
  3 Cheesecakes.
  3 Compotes of Fruit.
  3 English Pines.
  20 Small Dishes of various Summer Fruits.

  [Column 2]
  Dish of Lobster, cut up.
  Charlotte Russe à la Vanille.
  Lobster Salad
  Pigeon Pie.
  Lobster Salad.
  Dish of Lobster, cut up.
  Larded Capon.
  Lobster Salad.
  Pigeon Pie.
  Dish of Lobster, cut up.
  Savoy Cake.
  Lobster Salad.

  [Column 3]
  Tongue.
  Ribs of Lamb.
  Two Roast Fowls.
  Mayonnaise of Salmon.
  Epergne, with Flowers.
  Mayonnaise of Trout.
  Tongue, garnished.
  Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce.
  Collared Eel.
  Ham.
  Raised Pie.
  Two Roast Fowls.
  Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed.
  Mayonnaise of Salmon.
  Epergne, with Flowers.
  Mayonnaise of Trout.
  Tongue.
  Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce.
  Raised Pie.
  Ham, decorated.
  Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed.
  Two Roast Fowls.
  Mayonnaise of Salmon.
  Epergne, with Flowers.
  Mayonnaise of Trout.
  Tongue, garnished.
  Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce.
  Collared Eel.

  [Column 4]
  Veal-and-Ham Pie.
  Lobster Salad.
  Savoy Cake.
  Dish of Lobster, cut up.
  Lobster Salad.
  Boar's Head.
  Pigeon Pie.
  Lobster Salad.
  Dish of Lobster, cut up.
  Lobster Salad.
  Charlotte Russe à la Vanille.
  Veal and Ham Pie.
  Dish of Lobster, cut up.

_Note_.--The length of the page will not admit of our giving the dishes
as they should be placed on the table; they should be arranged with the
large and high dishes down the centre, and the spaces filled up with the
smaller dishes, fruit, and flowers, taking care that the flavours and
colours contrast nicely, and that no two dishes of a sort come together.
This bill of fare may be made to answer three or four purposes, placing
a wedding cake or christening cake in the centre on a high stand, if
required for either of these occasions. A few dishes of fowls, lobster
salads, &c. &c., should be kept in reserve to replenish those that are
most likely to be eaten first. A joint of cold roast and boiled beef
should be placed on the buffet, as being something substantial for the
gentlemen of the party to partake of. Besides the articles enumerated in
the bill of fare, biscuits and wafers will be required, cream-and-water
ices, tea, coffee, wines, liqueurs, soda-water, ginger-beer, and
lemonade.


BREAKFASTS.

2144. It will not be necessary to give here a long bill of fare of cold
joints, &c., which may be placed on the side-board, and do duty at the
breakfast-table. Suffice it to say, that any cold meat the larder may
furnish, should be nicely garnished, and be placed on the buffet.
Collared and potted meats or fish, cold game or poultry, veal-and-ham
pies, game-and-Rump-steak pies, are all suitable dishes for the
breakfast-table; as also cold ham, tongue, &c. &c.

2145. The following list of hot dishes may perhaps assist our readers in
knowing what to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast.
Broiled fish, such as mackerel, whiting, herrings, dried haddocks, &c.;
mutton chops and rump-steaks, broiled sheep's kidneys, kidneys à la
maître d'hôtel, sausages, plain rashers of bacon, bacon and poached
eggs, ham and poached eggs, omelets, plain boiled eggs, oeufs-au-plat,
poached eggs on toast, muffins, toast, marmalade, butter, &c. &c.

2146. In the summer, and when they are obtainable, always have a vase of
freshly-gathered flowers on the breakfast-table, and, when convenient, a
nicely-arranged dish of fruit: when strawberries are in season, these
are particularly refreshing; as also grapes, or even currants.


LUNCHEONS AND SUPPERS.

2147. The remains of cold joints, nicely garnished, a few sweets, or a
little hashed meat, poultry or game, are the usual articles placed on
the table for luncheon, with bread and cheese, biscuits, butter, &c. If
a substantial meal is desired, rump-steaks or mutton chops may he
served, as also veal cutlets, kidneys, or any dish of that kind. In
families where there is a nursery, the mistress of the house often
partakes of the meal with the children, and makes it her luncheon. In
the summer, a few dishes of fresh fruit should be added to the luncheon,
or, instead of this, a compote of fruit or fruit tart, or pudding.

2148. Of suppers we have little to say, as we have already given two
bills of fare for a large party, which will answer very well for a
smaller number, by reducing the quantity of dishes and by omitting a
few. Hot suppers are now very little in request, as people now generally
dine at an hour which precludes the possibility of requiring supper; at
all events, not one of a substantial kind. Should, however, a bill of
fare be required, one of those under the head of DINNERS, with slight
alterations, will be found to answer for a hot supper.


BILL OF FARE FOR A PICNIC FOR 40 PERSONS.

2149. A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of cold boiled beef, 2 ribs of
lamb, 2 shoulders of lamb, 4 roast fowls, 2 roast ducks, 1 ham, 1
tongue, 2 veal-and-ham pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium-sized lobsters, 1
piece of collared calf's head, 18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6
cucumbers.

2150. Stewed fruit well sweetened, and put into glass bottles well
corked; 3 or 4 dozen plain pastry biscuits to eat with the stewed fruit,
2 dozen fruit turnovers, 4 dozen cheesecakes, 2 cold cabinet puddings in
moulds, 2 blancmanges in moulds, a few jam puffs, 1 large cold
plum-pudding (this must be good), a few baskets of fresh fruit, 3 dozen
plain biscuits, a piece of cheese, 6 lbs. of butter (this, of course,
includes the butter for tea), 4 quartern loaves of household broad, 3
dozen rolls, 6 loaves of tin bread (for tea), 2 plain plum cakes, 2
pound cakes, 2 sponge cakes, a tin of mixed biscuits, 1/2 lb, of tea.
Coffee is not suitable for a picnic, being difficult to make.

Things not to be forgotten at a Picnic.

2151. A stick of horseradish, a bottle of mint-sauce well corked, a
bottle of salad dressing, a bottle of vinegar, made mustard, pepper,
salt, good oil, and pounded sugar. If it can be managed, take a little
ice. It is scarcely necessary to say that plates, tumblers,
wine-glasses, knives, forks, and spoons, must not be forgotten; as also
teacups and saucers, 3 or 4 teapots, some lump sugar, and milk, if this
last-named article cannot be obtained in the neighbourhood. Take 3
corkscrews.

2152. _Beverages_.--3 dozen quart bottles of ale, packed in hampers;
ginger-beer, soda-water, and lemonade, of each 2 dozen bottles; 6
bottles of sherry, 6 bottles of claret, champagne à discrétion, and any
other light wine that may be preferred, and 2 bottles of brandy. Water
can usually be obtained so it is useless to take it.




DOMESTIC SERVANTS.


CHAPTER XLI.


2153. It is the custom of "Society" to abuse its servants,--_a façon de
parler_, such as leads their lords and masters to talk of the weather,
and, when rurally inclined, of the crops,--leads matronly ladies, and
ladies just entering on their probation in that honoured and honourable
state, to talk of servants, and, as we are told, wax eloquent over the
greatest plague in life while taking a quiet cup of tea. Young men at
their clubs, also, we are told, like to abuse their "fellows," perhaps
not without a certain pride and pleasure at the opportunity of
intimating that they enjoy such appendages to their state. It is another
conviction of "Society" that the race of good servants has died out, at
least in England, although they do order these things better in France;
that there is neither honesty, conscientiousness, nor the careful and
industrious habits which distinguished the servants of our grandmothers
and great-grandmothers; that domestics no longer know their place; that
the introduction of cheap silks and cottons, and, still more recently,
those ambiguous "materials" and tweeds, have removed the landmarks
between the mistress and her maid, between the master and his man.

2154. When the distinction really depends on things so insignificant,
this is very probably the case; when the lady of fashion chooses her
footman without any other consideration than his height, shape, and
_tournure_ of his calf, it is not surprising that she should find a
domestic who has no attachment for the family, who considers the figure
he cuts behind her carriage, and the late hours he is compelled to keep,
a full compensation for the wages he exacts, for the food he wastes, and
for the perquisites he can lay his hands on. Nor should the fast young
man, who chooses his groom for his knowingness in the ways of the turf
and in the tricks of low horse-dealers, be surprised if he is sometimes
the victim of these learned ways. But these are the exceptional cases,
which prove the existence of a better state of things. The great masses
of society among us are not thus deserted; there are few families of
respectability, from the shopkeeper in the next street to the nobleman
whose mansion dignifies the next square, which do not contain among
their dependents attached and useful servants; and where these are
absent altogether, there are good reasons for it. The sensible master
and the kind mistress know, that if servants depend on them for their
means of living, in their turn they are dependent on their servants for
very many of the comforts of life; and that, with a proper amount of
care in choosing servants, and treating them like reasonable beings, and
making slight excuses for the shortcomings of human nature, they will,
save in some exceptional case, be tolerably well served, and, in most
instances, surround themselves with attached domestics.

2155. This remark, which is applicable to all domestics, is especially
so to men-servants. Families accustomed to such attendants have always
about them humble dependents, whose children have no other prospect than
domestic service to look forward to; to them it presents no degradation,
but the reverse, to be so employed; they are initiated step by step into
the mysteries of the household, with the prospect of rising in the
service, if it is a house admitting of promotion,--to the respectable
position of butler or house-steward. In families of humbler pretensions,
where they must look for promotion elsewhere, they know that can only be
attained by acquiring the goodwill of their employers. Can there be any
stronger security for their good conduct,--any doubt that, in the mass
of domestic servants, good conduct is the rule, the reverse the
exception?

2156. The number of the male domestics in a family varies according to
the wealth and position of the master, from the owner of the ducal
mansion, with a retinue of attendants, at the head of which is the
chamberlain and house-steward, to the occupier of the humbler house,
where a single footman, or even the odd man-of-all-work, is the only
male retainer. The majority of gentlemen's establishments probably
comprise a servant out of livery, or butler, a footman, and coachman, or
coachman and groom, where the horses exceed two or three.


DUTIES OF THE BUTLER.

2157. The domestic duties of the butler are to bring in the eatables at
breakfast, and wait upon the family at that meal, assisted by the
footman, and see to the cleanliness of everything at table. On taking
away, he removes the tray with the china and plate, for which he is
responsible. At luncheon, he arranges the meal, and waits unassisted,
the footman being now engaged in other duties. At dinner, he places the
silver and plated articles on the table, sees that everything is in its
place, and rectifies what is wrong. He carries in the first dish, and
announces in the drawing-room that dinner is on the table, and
respectfully stands by the door until the company are seated, when he
takes his place behind his master's chair on the left, to remove the
covers, handing them to the other attendants to carry out. After the
first course of plates is supplied, his place is at the sideboard to
serve the wines, but only when called on.

2158. The first course ended, he rings the cook's bell, and hands the
dishes from the table to the other servants to carry away, receiving
from them the second course, which he places on the table, removing the
covers as before, and again taking his place at the sideboard.

2159. At dessert, the slips being removed, the butler receives the
dessert from the other servants, and arranges it on the table, with
plates and glasses, and then takes his place behind his master's chair
to hand the wines and ices, while the footman stands behind his mistress
for the same purpose, the other attendants leaving the room. Where the
old-fashioned practice of having the dessert on the polished table,
without any cloth, is still adhered to, the butler should rub off any
marks made by the hot dishes before arranging the dessert.

2160. Before dinner, he has satisfied himself that the lamps, candles,
or gas-burners are in perfect order, if not lighted, which will usually
be the case. Having served every one with their share of the dessert,
put the fires in order (when these are used), and seen the lights are
all right, at a signal from his master, he and the footman leave the
room.

2161. He now proceeds to the drawing-room, arranges the fireplace, and
sees to the lights; he then returns to his pantry, prepared to answer
the bell, and attend to the company, while the footman is clearing away
and cleaning the plate and glasses.

2162. At tea he again attends. At bedtime he appears with the candles;
he locks up the plate, secures doors and windows, and sees that all the
fires are safe.

2163. In addition to these duties, the butler, where only one footman is
kept, will be required to perform some of the duties of the valet, to
pay bills, and superintend the other servants. But the real duties of
the butler are in the wine-cellar; there he should be competent to
advise his master as to the price and quality of the wine to be laid in;
"fine," bottle, cork, and seal it, and place it in the binns. Brewing,
racking, and bottling malt liquors, belong to his office, as well as
their distribution. These and other drinkables are brought from the
cellar every day by his own hands, except where an under-butler is kept;
and a careful entry of every bottle used, entered in the cellar-book; so
that the book should always show the contents of the cellar.

    2164. The office of butler is thus one of very great trust in a
    household. Here, as elsewhere, honesty is the best policy: the
    butler should make it his business to understand the proper
    treatment of the different wines under his charge, which he can
    easily do from the wine-merchant, and faithfully attend to it;
    his own reputation will soon compensate for the absence of
    bribes from unprincipled wine-merchants, if he serves a generous
    and hospitable master. Nothing spreads more rapidly in society
    than the reputation of a good wine-cellar, and all that is
    required is wines well chosen and well cared for; and this a
    little knowledge, carefully applied, will soon supply.

2165. The butler, we have said, has charge of the contents of the
cellars, and it is his duty to keep them in a proper condition, to fine
down wine in wood, bottle it off, and store it away in places suited to
the sorts. Where wine comes into the cellar ready bottled, it is usual
to return the same number of empty bottles; the butler has not, in this
case, the same inducements to keep the bottles of the different sorts
separated; but where the wine is bottled in the house, he will find his
account, not only in keeping them separate, but in rinsing them well,
and even washing them with clean water as soon as they are empty.

    2166. There are various modes of fining wine: isinglass,
    gelatine, and gum Arabic are all used for the purpose. Whichever
    of these articles is used, the process is always the same.
    Supposing eggs (the cheapest) to be used,--Draw a gallon or so
    of the wine, and mix one quart of it with the whites of four
    eggs, by stirring it with a whisk; afterwards, when thoroughly
    mixed, pour it back into the cask through the bunghole, and stir
    up the whole cask, in a rotatory direction, with a clean split
    stick inserted through the bunghole. Having stirred it
    sufficiently, pour in the remainder of the wine drawn off, until
    the cask is full; then stir again, skimming off the bubbles that
    rise to the surface. When thoroughly mixed by stirring, close
    the bunghole, and leave it to stand for three or four days. This
    quantity of clarified wine will fine thirteen dozen of port or
    sherry. The other clearing ingredients are applied in the same
    manner, the material being cut into small pieces, and dissolved
    in the quart of wine, and the cask stirred in the same manner.

    2167. _To Bottle Wine_.--Having thoroughly washed and dried the
    bottles, supposing they have been before used for the same kind
    of wine, provide corks, which will be improved by being slightly
    boiled, or at least steeped in hot water,--a wooden hammer or
    mallet, a bottling-boot, and a squeezer for the corks. Bore a
    hole in the lower part of the cask with a gimlet, receiving the
    liquid stream which follows in the bottle and filterer, which is
    placed in a tub or basin. This operation is best performed by
    two persons, one to draw the wine, the other to cork the
    bottles. The drawer is to see that the bottles are up to the
    mark, but not too full, the bottle being placed in a clean tub
    to prevent waste. The corking-boot is buckled by a strap to the
    knee, the bottle placed in it, and the cork, after being
    squeezed in the press, driven in by a flat wooden mallet.

    2168. As the wine draws near to the bottom of the cask, a thick
    piece of muslin is placed in the strainer, to prevent the
    viscous grounds from passing into the bottle.

    2169. Having carefully counted the bottles, they are stored away
    in their respective binns, a layer of sand or sawdust being
    placed under the first tier, and another over it; a second tier
    is laid over this, protected by a lath, the head of the second
    being laid to the bottom of the first; over this another bed of
    sawdust is laid, not too thick, another lath; and so on till the
    binn is filled.

    2170. Wine so laid in will be ready for use according to its
    quality and age. Port wine, old in the wood, will be ready to
    drink in five or six months; but if it is a fruity wine, it will
    improve every year. Sherry, if of good quality, will be fit to
    drink as soon as the "sickness" (as its first condition after
    bottling is called) ceases, and will also improve; but the
    cellar must be kept at a perfectly steady temperature, neither
    too hot nor too cold, but about 55° or 60°, and absolutely free
    from draughts of cold air.


DUTIES OF THE FOOTMAN.

2171. Where a single footman, or odd man, is the only male servant,
then, whatever his ostensible position, he is required to make himself
generally useful. He has to clean the knives and shoes, the furniture,
the plate; answer the visitors who call, the drawing-room and parlour
bells; and do all the errands. His life is no sinecure; and a methodical
arrangement of his time will be necessary, in order to perform his many
duties with any satisfaction to himself or his master.

    2172. The footman only finds himself in stockings, shoes, and
    washing. Where silk stockings, or other extra articles of linen
    are worn, they are found by the family, as well as his livery, a
    working dress, consisting of a pair of overalls, a waistcoat, a
    fustian jacket, with a white or jean one for times when he is
    liable to be called to answer the door or wait at breakfast;
    and, on quitting his service, he is expected to leave behind him
    any livery had within six months.

2173. The footman is expected to rise early, in order to get through all
his dirty work before the family are stirring. Boots and shoes, and
knives and forks, should be cleaned, lamps in use trimmed, his master's
clothes brushed, the furniture rubbed over; so that he may put aside his
working dress, tidy himself, and appear in a clean jean jacket to lay
the cloth and prepare breakfast for the family.

    2174. We need hardly dwell on the boot-cleaning process: three
    good brushes and good blacking must be provided; one of the
    brushes hard, to brush off the mud; the other soft, to lay on
    the blacking; the third of a medium hardness, for polishing; and
    each should be kept for its particular use. The blacking should
    be kept corked up, except when in use, and applied to the brush
    with a sponge tied to a stick, which, when put away, rests in a
    notch cut in the cork. When boots come in very muddy, it is a
    good practice to wash off the mud, and wipe them dry with a
    sponge; then leave them to dry very gradually on their sides,
    taking care they are not placed near the fire, or scorched. Much
    delicacy of treatment is required in cleaning ladies' boots, so
    as to make the leather look well-polished, and the upper part
    retain a fresh appearance, with the lining free from hand-marks,
    which are very offensive to a lady of refined tastes.

    2175. Patent leather boots require to be wiped with a wet
    sponge, and afterwards with a soft dry cloth, and occasionally
    with a soft cloth and sweet oil, blacking and polishing the edge
    of the soles in the usual way, but so as not to cover the patent
    polish with blacking. A little milk may also be used with very
    good effect for patent leather boots.

    2176. Top boots are still occasionally worn by gentlemen. While
    cleaning the lower part in the usual manner, protect the tops,
    by inserting a cloth or brown paper under the edges and bringing
    it over them. In cleaning the tops, let the covering fall down
    over the boot; wash the tops clean with soap and flannel, and
    rub out any spots with pumice-stone. If the tops are to be
    whiter, dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid and half an ounce of
    pumice-stone in a pint of soft water; if a brown colour is
    intended, mix an ounce of muriatic acid, half an ounce of alum,
    half an ounce of gum Arabic, and half an ounce of spirit of
    lavender, in a pint and a half of skimmed milk "turned." These
    mixtures apply by means of a sponge, and polish, when dry, with
    a rubber made of soft flannel.

    2177. Knives are now generally cleaned by means of Kent's or
    Masters's machine, which gives very little trouble, and is very
    effective; before, however, putting the knives into the machine,
    it is highly necessary that they be first washed in a little
    warm (not hot) water, and then thoroughly wiped: if put into the
    machine with any grease on them, it adheres to the brushes, and
    consequently renders them unfit to use for the next knives that
    may be put in. When this precaution is not taken, the machine
    must come to pieces, so causing an immense amount of trouble,
    which may all be avoided by having the knives thoroughly free
    from grease before using the machine. Brushes are also used for
    cleaning forks, which facilitate the operation. When knives are
    so cleaned, see that they are carefully polished, wiped, and
    with a good edge, the ferules and prongs free from dirt, and
    place them in the basket with the handles all one way.

    2178. Lamp-trimming requires a thorough acquaintance with the
    mechanism; after that, constant attention to cleanliness, and an
    occasional entire clearing out with hot water: when this is
    done, all the parts should be carefully dried before filling
    again with oil. When lacquered, wipe the lacquered parts with a
    soft brush and cloth, and wash occasionally with weak soapsuds,
    wiping carefully afterwards. Brass lamps may be cleaned with oil
    and rottenstone every day when trimmed. With bronze, and other
    ornamental lamps, more care will be required, and soft flannel
    and oil only used, to prevent the removal of the bronze or
    enamel. Brass-work, or any metal-work not lacquered, is cleaned
    by a little oil and rottenstone made into a paste, or with fine
    emery-powder and oil mixed in the same manner. A small portion
    of sal ammoniac, beat into a fine powder and moistened with soft
    water, rubbed over brass ornaments, and heated over a charcoal
    fire, and rubbed dry with bran or whitening, will give to
    brass-work the brilliancy of gold. In trimming moderator lamps,
    let the wick be cut evenly all round; as, if left higher in one
    place than it is in another, it will cause it to smoke and burn
    badly. The lamp should then be filled with oil from a feeder,
    and afterwards well wiped with a cloth or rag kept for the
    purpose. If it can be avoided, never wash the chimneys of a
    lamp, as it causes them to crack when they become hot. Small
    sticks, covered with wash-leather pads, are the best things to
    use for cleaning the glasses inside, and a clean duster for
    polishing the outside. The globe of a moderator lamp should be
    occasionally washed in warm soap-and-water, then well rinsed in
    cold water, and either wiped dry or left to drain. Where
    candle-lamps are used, take out the springs occasionally, and
    free them well from the grease that adheres to them.

    2179. French polish, so universally applied to furniture, is
    easily kept in condition by dusting and rubbing with a soft
    cloth, or a rubber of old silk; but dining-tables can only be
    kept in order by hard rubbing, or rather by quick rubbing, which
    warms the wood and removes all spots.

    2180. Brushing clothes is a very simple but very necessary
    operation. Fine cloths require to be brushed lightly, and with
    rather a soft brush, except where mud is to be removed, when a
    hard one is necessary, being previously beaten lightly to
    dislodge the dirt. Lay the garment on a table, and brush it in
    the direction of the nap. Having brushed it properly, turn the
    sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds may come at the
    elbow-joints; next turn the lappels or sides back over the
    folded sleeves; then lay the skirts over level with the collar,
    so that the crease may fall about the centre, and double one
    half over the other, so as the fold comes in the centre of the
    back.

2181. Having got through his dirty work, the single footman has now to
clean himself and prepare the breakfast. He lays the cloth on the table;
over it the breakfast-cloth, and sets the breakfast things in order, and
then proceeds to wait upon his master, if he has any of the duties of a
valet to perform.

2182. Where a valet is not kept, a portion of his duties falls to the
footman's share,--brushing the clothes among others. When the hat is
silk, it requires brushing every day with a soft brush; after rain, it
requires wiping the way of the nap before drying, and, when nearly dry,
brushing with the soft brush and with the hat-stick in it. If the
footman is required to perform any part of a valet's duties, he will
have to see that the housemaid lights a fire in the dressing-room in due
time; that the room is dusted and cleaned; that the washhand-ewer is
filled with soft water; and that the bath, whether hot or cold, is ready
when required; that towels are at hand; that hair-brushes and combs are
properly cleansed, and in their places; that hot water is ready at the
hour ordered; the dressing-gown and slippers in their place, the clean
linen aired, and the clothes to be worn for the day in their proper
places. After the master has dressed, it will be the footman's duty to
restore everything to its place properly cleansed and dry, and the whole
restored to order.

2183. At breakfast, when there is no butler, the footman carries up the
tea-urn, and, assisted by the housemaid, he waits during breakfast.
Breakfast over, he removes the tray and other things off the table,
folds up the breakfast-cloth, and sets the room in order, by sweeping
up all crumbs, shaking the cloth, and laying it on the table again,
making up the fire, and sweeping up the hearth.

2184. At luncheon-time nearly the same routine is observed, except where
the footman is either out with the carriage or away on other business,
when, in the absence of any butler, the housemaid must assist.

2185. For dinner, the footman lays the cloth, taking care that the table
is not too near the fire, if there is one, and that passage-room is
left. A tablecloth should be laid without a wrinkle; and this requires
two persons: over this the slips are laid, which are usually removed
preparatory to placing dessert on the table. He prepares knives, forks,
and glasses, with five or six plates for each person. This done, he
places chairs enough for the party, distributing them equally on each
side of the table, and opposite to each a napkin neatly folded, within
it a piece of bread or small roll, and a knife on the right side of each
plate, a fork on the left, and a carving-knife and fork at the top and
bottom of the table, outside the others, with the rests opposite to
them, and a gravy-spoon beside the knife. The fish-slice should be at
the top, where the lady of the house, with the assistance of the
gentleman next to her, divides the fish, and the soup-ladle at the
bottom: it is sometimes usual to add a dessert-knife and fork; at the
same time, on the right side also of each plate, put a wine-glass for as
many kinds of wine as it is intended to hand round, and a finger-glass
or glass-cooler about four inches from the edge. The latter are
frequently put on the table with the dessert.

2186. About half an hour before dinner, he rings the dinner-bell, where
that is the practice, and occupies himself with carrying up everything
he is likely to require. At the expiration of the time, having
communicated with the cook, he rings the real dinner-bell, and proceeds
to take it up with such assistance as he can obtain. Having ascertained
that all is in order, that his own dress is clean and presentable, and
his white cotton gloves are without a stain, he announces in the
drawing-room that dinner is served, and stands respectfully by the door
until the company are seated: he places himself on the left, behind his
master, who is to distribute the soup; where soup and fish are served
together, his place will be at his mistress's left hand; but he must be
on the alert to see that whoever is assisting him, whether male or
female, are at their posts. If any of the guests has brought his own
servant with him, his place is behind his master's chair, rendering such
assistance to others as he can, while attending to his master's wants
throughout the dinner, so that every guest has what he requires. This
necessitates both activity and intelligence, and should be done without
bustle, without asking any questions, except where it is the custom of
the house to hand round dishes or wine, when it will be necessary to
mention, in a quiet and unobtrusive manner, the dish or wine you
present.

    2187. Salt-cellars should be placed on the table in number
    sufficient for the guests, so that each may help themselves, or,
    at least, their immediate neighbours.

    DINNERS À LA RUSSE.

    2188. In some houses the table is laid out with plate and glass,
    and ornamented with flowers, the dessert only being placed on
    the table, the dinner itself being placed on the sideboard, and
    handed round in succession, in courses of soup, fish, entries,
    meat, game, and sweets. This is not only elegant but economical,
    as fewer dishes are required, the symmetry of the table being
    made up with the ornaments and dessert. The various dishes are
    also handed round when hot; but it involves additional and
    superior attendance, as the wines are also handed round; and
    unless the servants are very active and intelligent, many
    blunders are likely to be made. (See p. 954.)


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

2189. While attentive to all, the footman should be obtrusive to none;
he should give nothing but on a waiter, and always hand it with the left
hand and on the left side of the person he serves, and hold it so that
the guest may take it with ease. In lifting dishes from the table, he
should use both hands, and remove them with care, so that nothing is
spilt on the table-cloth or on the dresses of the guests.

2190. Masters as well as servants sometimes make mistakes; but it is not
expected that a servant will correct any omissions, even if he should
have time to notice them, although with the best intentions: thus it
would not be correct, for instance, if he observed that his master took
wine with the ladies all round, as some gentlemen still continue to do,
but stopped at some one:--to nudge him on the shoulder and say, as was
done by the servant of a Scottish gentleman, "What ails you at her in
the green gown?" It will be better to leave the lady unnoticed than for
the servant thus to turn his master into ridicule.

2191. During dinner each person's knife, fork, plate, and spoon should
be changed as soon as he has done with it; the vegetables and sauces
belonging to the different dishes presented without remark to the
guests; and the footman should tread lightly in moving round, and, if
possible, should bear in mind, if there is a wit or humorist of the
party, whose good things keep the table in a roar, that they are not
expected to reach his ears.

    2192. In opening wine, let it be done quietly, and without
    shaking the bottle; if crusted, let it be inclined to the
    crusted side, and decanted while in that position. In opening
    champagne, it is not necessary to discharge it with a pop;
    properly cooled, the cork is easily extracted without an
    explosion; when the cork is out, the mouth of the bottle should
    be wiped with the napkin over the footman's arm.

2193. At the end of the first course, notice is conveyed to the cook,
who is waiting to send up the second, which is introduced in the same
way as before; the attendants who remove the fragments, carrying the
dishes from the kitchen, and handing them to the footman or butler,
whose duty it is to arrange them on the table. After dinner, the
dessert-glasses and wines are placed on the table by the footman, who
places himself behind his master's chair, to supply wine and hand round
the ices and other refreshments, all other servants leaving the room.

2194. As soon as the drawing-room bell rings for tea, the footman enters
with the tray, which has been previously prepared; hands the tray round
to the company, with cream and sugar, the tea and coffee being generally
poured out, while another attendant hands cakes, toast, or biscuits. If
it is an ordinary family party, where this social meal is prepared by
the mistress, he carries the urn or kettle, as the case may be; hands
round the toast, or such other eatable as may be required, removing the
whole in the same manner when tea is over.

    2195. After each meal, the footman's place is in his pantry:
    here perfect order should prevail--a place for everything and
    everything in its place. A sink, with hot and cold water laid
    on, is very desirable,--cold absolutely necessary. Wooden bowls
    or tubs of sufficient capacity are required, one for hot and
    another for cold water. Have the bowl three parts full of clean
    hot water; in this wash all plate and plated articles which are
    greasy, wiping them before cleaning with the brush.

    2196. The footman in small families, where only one man is kept,
    has many of the duties of the upper servants to perform as well
    as his own, and more constant occupation; he will also have the
    arrangement of his time more immediately under his own control,
    and he will do well to reduce it to a methodical division. All
    his rough work should be done before breakfast is ready, when he
    must appear clean, and in a presentable state. After breakfast,
    when everything belonging to his pantry is cleaned and put in
    its place, the furniture in the dining and drawing rooms
    requires rubbing. Towards noon, the parlour luncheon is to be
    prepared; and he must be at his mistress's disposal to go out
    with the carriage, or follow her if she walks out.

    2197. Glass is a beautiful and most fragile article: hence it
    requires great care in washing. A perfectly clean wooden bowl is
    best for this operation, one for moderately hot and another for
    cold water. Wash the glasses well in the first and rinse them in
    the second, and turn them down on a linen cloth folded two or
    three times, to drain for a few minutes. When sufficiently
    drained, wipe them with a cloth and polish with a finer one,
    doing so tenderly and carefully. Accidents will happen; but
    nothing discredits a servant in the drawing-room more than
    continual reports of breakages, which, of course, must reach
    that region.

    2198. Decanters and water-jugs require still more tender
    treatment in cleaning, inasmuch as they are more costly to
    replace. Fill them about two-thirds with hot but not boiling
    water, and put in a few pieces of well-soaped brown paper; leave
    them thus for two or three hours; then shake the water up and
    down in the decanters; empty this out, rinse them well with
    clean cold water, and put them in a rack to drain. When dry,
    polish them outside and inside, as far as possible, with a fine
    cloth. To remove the crust of port or other wines, add a little
    muriatic acid to the water, and let it remain for some time.

2199. When required to go out with the carriage, it is the footman's
duty to see that it has come to the door perfectly clean, and that the
glasses, and sashes, and linings, are free from dust. In receiving
messages at the carriage door, he should turn his ear to the speaker, so
as to comprehend what is said, in order that he may give his directions
to the coachman clearly. When the house he is to call at is reached, he
should knock, and return to the carriage for orders. In closing the door
upon the family, he should see that the handle is securely turned, and
that no part of the ladies' dress is shut in.

2200. It is the footman's duty to carry messages or letters for his
master or mistress to their friends, to the post, or to the
tradespeople; and nothing is more important than dispatch and exactness
in doing so, although writing even the simplest message is now the
ordinary and very proper practice. Dean Swift, among his other quaint
directions, all of which are to be read by contraries, recommends a
perusal of all such epistles, in order that you may be the more able to
fulfil your duty to your master. An old lady of Forfarshire had one of
those odd old Caleb Balderston sort of servants, who construed the Dean
of St. Patrick more literally. On one occasion, when dispatch was of
some importance, knowing his inquiring nature, she called her Scotch
Paul Pry to her, opened the note, and read it to him herself, saying,
"Now, Andrew, you ken a' aboot it, and needna' stop to open and read it,
but just take it at once." Probably most of the notes you are expected
to carry might, with equal harmlessness, be communicated to you; but it
will be better not to take so lively an interest in your mistress's
affairs.

2201. Politeness and civility to visitors is one of the things masters
and mistresses have a right to expect, and should exact rigorously. When
visitors present themselves, the servant charged with the duty of
opening the door will open it promptly, and answer, without hesitation,
if the family are "not at home," or "engaged;" which generally means the
same thing, and might be oftener used with advantage to morals. On the
contrary, if he has no such orders, he will answer affirmatively, open
the door wide to admit them, and precede them to open the door of the
drawing-room. If the family are not there, he will place chairs for
them, open the blinds (if the room is too dark), and intimate civilly
that he goes to inform his mistress. If the lady is in her drawing-room,
he announces the name of the visitors, having previously acquainted
himself with it. In this part of his duty it is necessary to be very
careful to repeat the names correctly; mispronouncing names is very apt
to give offence, and leads sometimes to other disagreeables. The writer
was once initiated into some of the secrets on the "other side" of a
legal affair in which he took an interest, before he could correct a
mistake made by the servant in announcing him. When the visitor is
departing, the servant should be at hand, ready, when rung for, to open
the door; he should open it with a respectful manner, and close it
gently when the visitors are fairly beyond the threshold. When several
visitors arrive together, he should take care not to mix up the
different names together, where they belong to the same family, as Mr.,
Mrs., and Miss; if they are strangers, he should announce each as
distinctly as possible.

2202. _Receptions and Evening Parties_.--The drawing-rooms being
prepared, the card-tables laid out with cards and counters, and such
other arrangements as are necessary made for the reception of the
company, the rooms should be lighted up as the hour appointed
approaches. Attendants in the drawing-room, even more than in the
dining-room, should move about actively but noiselessly; no creaking of
shoes, which is an abomination; watching the lights from time to time,
so as to keep up their brilliancy. But even if the attendant likes a
game of cribbage or whist himself, he must not interfere in his master
or mistress's game, nor even seem to take an interest in it. We once
knew a lady who had a footman, and both were fond of a game of
cribbage,--John in the kitchen, the lady in her drawing-room. The lady
was a giver of evening parties, where she frequently enjoyed her
favourite amusement. While handing about the tea and toast, John could
not always suppress his disgust at her mistakes. "There is more in that
hand, ma'am," he has been known to say; or, "Ma'am, you forgot to count
his nob;" in fact, he identified himself with his mistress's game, and
would have lost twenty places rather than witness a miscount. It is not
necessary to adopt his example on this point, although John had many
qualities a good servant might copy with advantage.


THE COACHHOUSE AND STABLES.

    2203. THE HORSE is the noblest of quadrupeds, whether we view
    him in his strength, his sagacity, or his beauty. He is also the
    most useful to man of all the animal creation; but his delicacy
    is equal to his power and usefulness. No other animal, probably,
    is so dependent on man in the state of domestication to which he
    has been reduced, or deteriorates so rapidly under exposure, bad
    feeding, or bad grooming. It is, therefore, a point of humanity,
    not to speak of its obvious impolicy, for the owner of horses to
    overlook any neglect in their feeding or grooming. His interest
    dictates that so valuable an animal should be well housed, well
    fed, and well groomed; and he will do well to acquire so much of
    stable lore as will enable him to judge of these points himself.
    In a general way, where a horse's coat is habitually rough and
    untidy, there is a sad want of elbow-grease in the stable. When
    a horse of tolerable breeding is dull and spiritless, he is
    getting ill or badly fed; and where he is observed to perspire
    much in the stables, is overfed, and probably eats his litter in
    addition to his regular supply of food.

    2204. _Stables_.--The architectural form of the stables will be
    subject to other influences than ours; we confine ourselves,
    therefore, to their internal arrangements. They should be roomy
    in proportion to the number of stalls; warm, with good
    ventilation, and perfectly free from cold draughts; the stalls
    roomy, without excess, with good and well-trapped drainage, so
    as to exclude bad smells; a sound ceiling to prevent the
    entrance of dust from the hayloft, which is usually above them;
    and there should be plenty of light, coming, however, either
    from above or behind, so as not to glare in the horse's eye.

    2205. _Heat_.--The first of these objects is attained, if the
    stables are kept within a degree or two of 50° in winter, and
    60° in summer; although some grooms insist on a much higher
    temperature, in the interests of their own labour.

    2206. _Ventilation_ is usually attained by the insertion of one
    or more tubes or boxes of wood or iron through the ceiling and
    the roof, with a sloping covering over the opening, to keep out
    rain, and valves or ventilators below to regulate the
    atmosphere, with openings in the walls for the admission of
    fresh air: this is still a difficulty, however; for the
    effluvium of the stable is difficult to dispel, and draughts
    must be avoided. This is sometimes accomplished by means of
    hollow walls with gratings at the bottom outside, for the exit
    of bad air, which is carried down through the hollow walls and
    discharged at the bottom, while, for the admission of fresh air,
    the reverse takes place: the fresh by this means gets diffused
    and heated before it is discharged into the stable.

    2207. _The Stalls_ should be divided by partitions of wood-work
    eight or nine feet high at the head and six at the heels, and
    nine feet deep, so as to separate each horse from its neighbour.
    A hay-rack placed within easy reach of the horse, of wood or
    iron, occupies either a corner or the whole breadth of the
    stall, which should be about six feet for on ordinary-sized
    horse. A manger, formerly of wood, but of late years more
    generally of iron lined with enamel, occupies a corner of the
    stall. The pavement of the stall should be nearly level, with a
    slight incline towards the gutter, to keep the bed dry, paved
    with hard Dutch brick laid on edge, or asphalte, or smithy
    clinkers, or rubble-stones, laid in strong cement. In the
    centre, about five feet from the wall, a grating should be
    firmly fixed in the pavement, and in communication with a
    well-trapped drain to carry off the water; the gutter outside
    the stall should also communicate with the drains by trapped
    openings. The passage between the stall and the hall should be
    from five to six feet broad at least; on the wall, opposite to
    each stall, pegs should be placed for receiving the harness and
    other things in daily use.

    2208. _A Harness-room_ is indispensable to every stable. It
    should be dry and airy, and furnished with a fireplace and
    boiler, both for the protection of the harness and to prepare
    mashes for the horses when required. The partition-wall should
    be boarded where the harness goes, with pegs to hang the various
    pieces of harness on, with saddle-trees to rest the saddles on,
    a cupboard for the brushes, sponges, and leathers, and a lock-up
    corn-bin.

    2209. _The furniture_ of a stable with coachhouse, consists of
    coach-mops, jacks for raising the wheels, horse-brushes,
    spoke-brushes, water-brushes, crest and bit-brushes,
    dandy-brushes, currycombs, birch and heath brooms,
    trimming-combs, scissors and pickers, oil-cans and brushes,
    harness-brushes of three sorts, leathers, sponges for horse and
    carriage, stable-forks, dung-baskets or wheelbarrow, corn-sieves
    and measures, horse-cloths and stable pails, horn or glass
    lanterns. Over the stables there should be accommodation for the
    coachman or groom to sleep. Accidents sometimes occur, and he
    should be at hand to interfere.


DUTIES OF THE COACHMAN, GROOM, AND STABLE-BOY.

2210. _The Establishment_ we have in view will consist of coachman,
groom, and stable-boy, who are capable of keeping in perfect order four
horses, and perhaps the pony. Of this establishment the coachman is
chief. Besides skill in driving, he should possess a good general
knowledge of horses; he has usually to purchase provender, to see that
the horses are regularly fed and properly groomed, watch over their
condition, apply simple remedies to trifling ailments in the animals
under his charge, and report where he observes symptoms of more serious
ones which he does not understand. He has either to clean the carriage
himself, or see that the stable-boy does it properly.

2211. _The Groom's_ first duties are to keep his horses in condition;
but he is sometimes expected to perform the duties of a valet, to ride
out with his master, on occasions, to wait at table, and otherwise
assist in the house: in these cases, he should have the means of
dressing himself, and keeping his clothes entirely away from the
stables. In the morning, about six o'clock, or rather before, the
stables should be opened and cleaned out, and the horses fed, first by
cleaning the rack and throwing in fresh hay, putting it lightly in the
rack, that the horses may get it out easily; a short time afterwards
their usual morning feed of oats should be put into the manger. While
this is going on, the stable-boy has been removing the stable-dung, and
sweeping and washing out the stables, both of which should be done every
day, and every corner carefully swept, in order to keep the stable sweet
and clean. The real duties of the groom follow: where the horses are not
taken out for early exercise, the work of grooming immediately
commences. "Having tied up the head," to use the excellent description
of the process given by old Barrett, "take a currycomb and curry him all
over the body, to raise the dust, beginning first at the neck, holding
the left cheek of the headstall in the left hand, and curry him from the
setting-on of his head all over the body to the buttocks, down to the
point of the hock; then change your hands, and curry him before, on his
breast, and, laying your right arm over his back, join your right side
to his left, and curry him all under the belly near the fore-bowels, and
so all over from the knees and back upwards; after that, go to the far
side and do that likewise. Then take a dead horse's tail, or, failing
that, a cotton dusting-cloth, and strike that away which the currycomb
hath raised. Then take a round brush made of bristles, with a leathern
handle, and dress him all over, both head, body, and legs, to the very
fetlocks, always cleansing the brush from the dust by rubbing it with
the currycomb. In the curry-combing process, as well as brushing, it
must be applied with mildness, especially with fine-skinned horses;
otherwise the tickling irritates them much. The brushing is succeeded by
a hair-cloth, with which rub him all over again very hard, both to take
away loose hairs and lay his coat; then wash your hands in fair water,
and rub him all over while they are wet, as well over the head as the
body. Lastly, take a clean cloth, and rub him all over again till he be
dry; then take another hair-cloth, and rub all his legs exceeding well
from the knees and hocks downwards to his hoofs, picking and dressing
them very carefully about the fetlocks, so as to remove all gravel and
dust which will sometimes lie in the bending of the joints." In addition
to the practice of this old writer, modern grooms add wisping, which
usually follows brushing. The best wisp is made from a hayband,
untwisted, and again doubled up after being moistened with water: this
is applied to every part of the body, as the brushing had been, by
changing the hands, taking care in all these operations to carry the
hand in the direction of the coat. Stains on the hair are removed by
sponging, or, when the coat is very dirty, by the water-brush; the whole
being finished off by a linen or flannel cloth. The horsecloth should
now be put on by taking the cloth in both hands, with the outside next
you, and, with your right hand to the off side, throw it over his back,
placing it no farther back than will leave it straight and level, which
will be about a foot from the tail. Put the roller round, and the
pad-piece under it, about six or eight inches from the fore legs. The
horse's head is now loosened; he is turned about in his stall to have
his head and ears rubbed and brushed over every part, including throat,
with the dusting-cloth, finishing by "pulling his ears," which all
horses seem to enjoy very much. This done, the mane and foretop should
be combed out, passing a wet sponge over them, sponging the mane on both
sides, by throwing it back to the midriff, to make it lie smooth. The
horse is now returned to his headstall, his tail combed out, cleaning it
of stains with a wet brush or sponge, trimming both tail and mane, and
forelock when necessary, smoothing them down with a brush on which a
little oil has been dropped.

    2212. Watering usually follows dressing; but some horses refuse
    their food until they have drunk: the groom should not,
    therefore, lay down exclusive rules on this subject, but study
    the temper and habits of his horse.

    2213. _Exercise_.--All horses not in work require at least two
    hours' exercise daily; and in exercising them a good groom will
    put them through the paces to which they have been trained. In
    the case of saddle-horses he will walk, trot, canter, and gallop
    them, in order to keep them up to their work. With draught
    horses they ought to be kept up to a smart walk and trot.

    2214. _Feeding_ must depend on their work, but they require
    feeding three times a day, with more or less corn each time,
    according to their work. In the fast coaching days it was a
    saying among proprietors, that "his belly was the measure of his
    food;" but the horse's appetite is not to be taken as a
    criterion of the quantity of food under any circumstances.
    Horses have been known to consume 40 lbs. of hay in twenty-four
    hours, whereas 16 lbs. to 18 lbs. is the utmost which should
    have been given. Mr. Croall, an extensive coach proprietor in
    Scotland, limited his horses to 4-1/2 lbs. cut straw, 8 lbs.
    bruised oats, and 2-1/2 lbs. bruised beans, in the morning and
    noon, giving them at night 25 lbs. of the following; viz., 560
    lbs. steamed potatoes, 36 lbs. barley-dust, 40 lbs. cut straw,
    and 6 lbs. salt, mixed up together: under this the horses did
    their work well. The ordinary measure given a horse is a peck of
    oats, about 40 lbs. to the bushel, twice a day, a third feed and
    a rack-full of hay, which may be about 15 lbs. or 18 lbs., when
    he is in full work.

    2215. You cannot take up a paper without having the question
    put, "Do you bruise your oats?" Well, that depends on
    circumstances: a fresh young horse can bruise its own oats when
    it can get them; but aged horses, after a time, lose the power
    of masticating and bruising them, and bolt them whole; thus much
    impeding the work of digestion. For an old horse, then, bruise
    the oats; for a young one it does no harm and little good. Oats
    should be bright and dry, and not too new. Where they are new,
    sprinkle them with salt and water; otherwise, they overload the
    horse's stomach. Chopped straw mixed with oats, in the
    proportion of a third of straw or hay, is a good food for horses
    in full work; and carrots, of which horses are remarkably fond,
    have a perceptible effect in a short time on the gloss of the
    coat.

    2216. The water given to a horse merits some attention; it
    should not be too cold; hard water is not to be recommended;
    stagnant or muddy water is positively injurious; river water is
    the best for all purposes; and anything is preferable to spring
    water, which should be exposed to the sun in summer for an hour
    or two, and stirred up before using it; a handful of oatmeal
    thrown into the pail will much improve its quality.

    2217. _Shoeing_.--A horse should not be sent on a journey or any
    other hard work immediately after new shoeing;--the stiffness
    incidental to new shoes is not unlikely to bring him down. A
    day's rest, with reasonable exercise, will not be thrown away
    after this operation. On reaching home very hot, the groom
    should walk him about for a few minutes; this done, he should
    take off the moisture with the scraper, and afterwards wisp him
    over with a handful of straw and a flannel cloth: if the cloth
    is dipped in some spirit, all the better. He should wash, pick,
    and wipe dry the legs and feet, take off the bridle and crupper,
    and fasten it to the rack, then the girths, and put a wisp of
    straw under the saddle. When sufficiently cool, the horse should
    have some hay given him, and then a feed of oats: if he refuse
    the latter, offer him a little wet bran, or a handful of oatmeal
    in tepid water. When he has been fed, he should be thoroughly
    cleaned, and his body-clothes put on, and, if very much harassed
    with fatigue, a little good ale or wine will be well bestowed on
    a valuable horse, adding plenty of fresh litter under the belly.

    2218. _Bridles_.--Every time a horse is unbridled, the bit
    should be carefully washed and dried, and the leather wiped, to
    keep them sweet, as well as the girths and saddle, the latter
    being carefully dried and beaten with a switch before it is
    again put on. In washing a horse's feet after a day's work, the
    master should insist upon the legs and feet being washed
    thoroughly with a sponge until the water flows over them, and
    then rubbed with a brush till quite dry.

    2219. _Harness_, if not carefully preserved, very soon gets a
    shabby tarnished appearance. Where the coachman has a proper
    harness-room and sufficient assistance, this is inexcusable and
    easily prevented. The harness-room should have a wooden lining
    all round, and be perfectly dry and well ventilated. Around the
    walls, hooks and pegs should be placed, for the several pieces
    of harness, at such a height as to prevent their touching the
    ground; and every part of the harness should have its peg or
    hook,--one for the halters, another for the reins, and others
    for snaffles and other bits and metal-work; and either a wooden
    horse or saddle-trees for the saddles and pads. All these parts
    should be dry, clean, and shining. This is only to be done by
    careful cleaning and polishing, and the use of several requisite
    pastes. The metallic parts, when white, should be cleaned by a
    soft brush and plate-powder; the copper and brass parts
    burnished with rottenstone-powder and oil,--steel with
    emery-powder; both made into a paste with a little oil.

    2220. An excellent paste for polishing harness and the
    leather-work of carriages, is made by melting 8 lbs. of yellow
    wax, stirring it till completely dissolved. Into this pour 1 lb.
    of litharge of the shops, which has been pounded up with water,
    and dried and sifted through a sieve, leaving the two, when
    mixed, to simmer on the fire, stirring them continually till all
    is melted. When it is a little cool, mix this with 1-1/4 lb. of
    good ivory-black; place this again on the fire, and stir till it
    boils anew, and suffer it to cool. When cooled a little, add
    distilled turpentine till it has the consistence of a thickish
    paste, scenting it with any essence at hand, thinning it when
    necessary from time to time, by adding distilled turpentine.

    2221. When the leather is old and greasy, it should be cleaned
    before applying this polish, with a brush wetted in a weak
    solution of potass and water, washing afterwards with soft river
    water, and drying thoroughly. If the leather is not black, one
    or two coats of black ink may be given before applying the
    polish. When quite dry, the varnish should be laid on with a
    soft shoe-brush, using also a soft brush to polish the leather.

    2222. When the leather is very old, it may be softened with
    fish-oil, and, after putting on the ink, a sponge charged with
    distilled turpentine passed over, to scour the surface of the
    leather, which should be polished as above.

    2223. _For fawn or yellow-coloured leather_, take a quart of
    skimmed milk, pour into it 1 oz. of sulphuric acid, and, when
    cold, add to it 4 oz. of hydrochloric acid, shaking the bottle
    gently until it ceases to emit white vapours; separate the
    coagulated from the liquid part, by straining through a sieve,
    and store it away till required. In applying it, clean the
    leather by a weak solution of oxalic acid, washing it off
    immediately, and apply the composition when dry with a sponge.

    2224. _Wheel-grease_ is usually purchased at the shops; but a
    good paste is made as follows:--Melt 80 parts of grease, and
    stir into it, mixing it thoroughly and smoothly, 20 parts of
    fine black-lead in powder, and store away in a tin box for use.
    This grease is used in the mint at Paris, and is highly
    approved.

    2225. _Carriages_ in an endless variety of shapes and names are
    continually making their appearance; but the hackney cab or
    clarence seems most in request for light carriages; the family
    carriage of the day being a modified form of the clarence
    adapted for family use. The carriage is a valuable piece of
    furniture, requiring all the care of the most delicate
    upholstery, with the additional disadvantage of continual
    exposure to the weather and to the muddy streets.

2216. It requires, therefore, to be carefully cleaned before putting
away, and a coach-house perfectly dry and well ventilated, for the
wood-work swells with moisture; it shrinks also with heat, unless the
timber has undergone a long course of seasoning: it should also have a
dry floor, a boarded one being recommended. It must be removed from the
ammoniacal influence of the stables, from open drains and cesspools, and
other gaseous influences likely to affect the paint and varnish. When
the carriage returns home, it should be carefully washed and dried, and
that, if possible, before the mud has time to dry on it. This is done by
first well slushing it with clean water, so as to wash away all
particles of sand, having first closed the sashes to avoid wetting the
linings. The body is then gone carefully over with a soft mop, using
plenty of clean water, and penetrating into every corner of the carved
work, so that not an atom of dirt remains; the body of the carriage is
then raised by placing the jack under the axletree and raising it so
that the wheel turns freely; this is now thoroughly washed with the mop
until the dirt is removed, using a water-brush for corners where the mop
does not penetrate. Every particle of mud and sand removed by the mop,
and afterwards with a wet sponge, the carriage is wiped dry, and, as
soon after as possible, the varnish is carefully polished with soft
leather, using a little sweet oil for the leather parts, and even for
the panels, so as to check any tendency of the varnish to crack. Stains
are removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil; if that
fails, a little Tripoli powder mixed with the oil will be more
successful.

2227. In preparing the carriage for use, the whole body should be rubbed
over with a clean leather and carefully polished, the iron-work and
joints oiled, the plated and brass-work occasionally cleaned,--the one
with plate-powder, or with well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil, and
leather kept for the purpose,--the other with rottenstone mixed with a
little oil, and applied without too much rubbing, until the paste is
removed; but, if rubbed every day with the leather, little more will be
required to keep it untarnished. The linings require careful brushing
every day, the cushions being taken out and beaten, and the glass sashes
should always be bright and clean. The wheel-tires and axletree are
carefully seen to, and greased when required, the bolts and nuts
tightened, and all the parts likely to get out of order overhauled.

2228. These duties, however, are only incidental to the coachman's
office, which is to drive; and much of the enjoyment of those in the
carriage depends on his proficiency in his art,--much also of the wear
of the carriage and horses. He should have sufficient knowledge of the
construction of the carriage to know when it is out of order,--to know,
also, the pace at which he can go over the road he has under him,
without risking the springs, and without shaking those he is driving too
much.

2229. Having, with or without the help of the groom or stable-boy, put
his horses to the carriage, and satisfied himself, by walking round
them, that everything is properly arranged, the coachman proceeds to the
off-side of the carriage, takes the reins from the back of the horses,
where they were thrown, buckles them together, and, placing his foot on
the step, ascends to his box, having his horses now entirely under
control. In ordinary circumstances, he is not expected to descend, for
where no footman accompanies the carriage, the doors are usually so
arranged that even a lady may let herself out, if she wishes it, from
the inside. The coachman's duties are to avoid everything approaching an
accident, and all his attention is required to guide his horses.

    2230. The pace at which he drives will depend upon his
    orders,--in all probability a moderate pace of seven or eight
    miles an hour; less speed is injurious to the horses, getting
    them into lazy and sluggish habits; for it is wonderful how soon
    these are acquired by some horses. The writer was once employed
    to purchase a horse for a country friend, and he picked a very
    handsome gelding out of Collins's stables, which seemed to
    answer to his friend's wants. It was duly committed to the
    coachman who was to drive it, after some very successful trials
    in harness and out of it, and seemed likely to give great
    satisfaction. After a time, the friend got tired of his
    carriage, and gave it up; as the easiest mode of getting rid of
    the horse, it was sent up to the writer's stables,--a present.
    Only twelve months had elapsed; the horse was as handsome as
    ever, with plenty of flesh, and a sleek glossy coat, and he was
    thankfully enough received; but, on trial, it was found that a
    stupid coachman, who was imbued with one of their old maxims,
    that "it's the pace that kills," had driven the horse, capable
    of doing his nine miles an hour with ease, at a jog-trot of four
    miles, or four and a half; and now, no persuasion of the whip
    could get more out of him. After many unsuccessful efforts to
    bring him back to his pace, in one of which a break-down
    occurred, under the hands of a professional trainer, he was sent
    to the hammer, and sold for a sum that did not pay for the
    attempt to break him in. This maxim, therefore, "that it's the
    pace that kills," is altogether fallacious in the moderate sense
    in which we are viewing it. In the old coaching days, indeed,
    when the Shrewsbury "Wonder" drove into the inn yard while the
    clock was striking, week after week and mouth after month, with
    unerring regularity, twenty-seven hours to a hundred and
    sixty-two miles; when the "Quicksilver" mail was timed to eleven
    miles an hour between London and Plymouth, with a fine of £5 to
    the driver if behind time; when the Brighton "Age," "tool'd" and
    horsed by the late Mr. Stevenson, used to dash round the square
    as the fifth hour was striking, having stopped at the half-way
    house while his servant handed a sandwich and a glass of sherry
    to his passengers,--then the pace was indeed "killing." But the
    truth is, horses that are driven at a jog-trot pace lose that
    _élan_ with which a good driver can inspire them, and they are
    left to do their work by mere weight and muscle; therefore,
    unless he has contrary orders, a good driver will choose a smart
    pace, but not enough to make his horses perspire: on level roads
    this should never be seen.

    2231. In choosing his horses, every master will see that they
    are properly paired,--that their paces are about equal. When
    their habits differ, it is the coachman's duty to discover how
    he can, with least annoyance to the horses, get that pace out of
    them. Some horses have been accustomed to be driven on the
    check, and the curb irritates them; others, with harder mouths,
    cannot be controlled with the slight leverage this affords; he
    must, therefore, accommodate the horses as he best can. The
    reins should always be held so that the horses are "in hand;"
    but he is a very bad driver who always drives with a tight rein;
    the pain to the horse is intolerable, and causes him to rear and
    plunge, and finally break sway, if he can. He is also a bad
    driver when the reins are always slack; the horse then feels
    abandoned to himself; he is neither directed nor supported, and
    if no accident occurs, it is great good luck.

2232. The true coachman's hands are so delicate and gentle, that the
mere weight of the reins is felt on the bit, and the directions are
indicated by a turn of the wrist rather than by a pull; the horses are
guided and encouraged, and only pulled up when they exceed their
intended pace, or in the event of a stumble; for there is a strong
though gentle hand on the reins.

2233. _The Whip_, in the hands of a good driver, and with well-bred
cattle, is there, more as a precaution than a "tool" for frequent use;
if he uses it, it is to encourage, by stroking the flanks; except,
indeed, he has to punish some waywardness of temper, and then he does it
effectually, taking care, however, that it is done on the flank, where
there is no very tender part, never on the crupper. In driving, the
coachman should never give way to temper. How often do we see horses
stumble from being conducted, or at least "allowed," to go over bad
ground by some careless driver, who immediately wreaks that vengeance on
the poor horse which might, with much more justice, be applied to his
own brutal shoulders. The whip is of course useful, and even necessary,
but should be rarely used, except to encourage and excite the horses.


DUTIES OF THE VALET.

2234. _Attendants on the Person_.-"No man is a hero to his valet," saith
the proverb; and the corollary may run, "No lady is a heroine to her
maid." The infirmities of humanity are, perhaps, too numerous and too
equally distributed to stand the severe microscopic tests which
attendants on the person have opportunities of applying. The valet and
waiting-maid are placed near the persons of the master and mistress,
receiving orders only from them, dressing them, accompanying them in all
their journeys, the confidants and agents of their most unguarded
moments, of their most secret habits, and of course subject to their
commands,--even to their caprices; they themselves being subject to
erring judgment, aggravated by an imperfect education. All that can be
expected from such servants is polite manners, modest demeanour, and a
respectful reserve, which are indispensable. To these, good sense, good
temper, some self-denial, and consideration for the feelings of others,
whether above or below them in the social scale, will be useful
qualifications. Their duty leads them to wait on those who are, from
sheer wealth, station, and education, more polished, and consequently
more susceptible of annoyance; and any vulgar familiarity of manner is
opposed to all their notions of self-respect. Quiet unobtrusive manners,
therefore, and a delicate reserve in speaking of their employers, either
in praise or blame, is as essential in their absence, as good manners
and respectful conduct in their presence.

2235. Some of the duties of the valet we have just hinted at in treating
of the duties of the footman in a small family. His day commences by
seeing that his master's dressing-room is in order; that the housemaid
has swept and dusted it properly; that the fire is lighted and burns
cheerfully; and some time before his master is expected, he will do well
to throw up the sash to admit fresh air, closing it, however, in time to
recover the temperature which he knows his master prefers. It is now his
duty to place the body-linen on the horse before the fire, to be aired
properly; to lay the trousers intended to be worn, carefully brushed and
cleaned, on the back of his master's chair; while the coat and
waistcoat, carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned, are
laid in their place ready to put on when required. All the articles of
the toilet should be in their places, the razors properly set and
stropped, and hot water ready for use.

2236. Gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shaving
themselves, but a valet should be prepared to do it if required; and he
should, besides, be a good hairdresser. Shaving over, he has to brush
the hair, beard, and moustache, where that appendage is encouraged,
arranging the whole simply and gracefully, according to the age and
style of countenance. Every fortnight, or three weeks at the utmost, the
hair should be cut, and the points of the whiskers trimmed as often as
required. A good valet will now present the various articles of the
toilet as they are wanted; afterwards, the body-linen, neck-tie, which
he will put on, if required, and, afterwards, waistcoat, coat, and
boots, in suitable order, and carefully brushed and polished.

2237. Having thus seen his master dressed, if he is about to go out, the
valet will hand him his cane, gloves, and hat, the latter well brushed
on the outside with a soft brush, and wiped inside with a clean
handkerchief, respectfully attend him to the door, and open it for him,
and receive his last orders for the day.

2238. He now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room,
cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds up any clothes that
may be left about the room, and puts them away in the drawers.

2239. Gentlemen are sometimes indifferent as to their clothes and
appearance; it is the valet's duty, in this case, where his master
permits it, to select from the wardrobe such things as are suitable for
the occasion, so that he may appear with scrupulous neatness and
cleanliness; that his linen and neck-tie, where that is white or
coloured, are unsoiled; and where he is not accustomed to change them
every day, that the cravat is turned, and even ironed, to remove the
crease of the previous fold. The coat collar,--which where the hair is
oily and worn long, is apt to get greasy--should also be examined; a
careful valet will correct this by removing the spots day by day as they
appear, first by moistening the grease-spots with a little rectified
spirits of wine or spirits of hartshorn, which has a renovating effect,
and the smell of which soon disappears. The grease is dissolved and
removed by gentle scraping. The grease removed, add a little more of the
spirit, and rub with a piece of clean cloth; finish by adding a few
drops more; rub it with the palm of the hand, in the direction of the
grain of the cloth, and it will be clean and glossy as the rest of the
garment.

    2240. Polish for the boots is an important matter to the valet,
    and not always to be obtained good by purchase; never so good,
    perhaps, as he can make for himself after the following
    recipes:--Take of ivory-black and treacle each 4 oz., sulphuric
    acid 1 oz., best olive-oil 2 spoonfuls, best white-wine vinegar
    3 half-pints: mix the ivory-black and treacle well in an earthen
    jar; then add the sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the
    mixture; next pour in the oil; and, lastly, add the vinegar,
    stirring it in by degrees, until thoroughly incorporated.

    241. Another polish is made by mixing 1 oz. each of pounded
    galls and logwood-chips, and 3 lbs. of red French vine
    (ordinaire). Boil together till the liquid is reduced to half
    the quantity, and pour it off through a strainer. Now take 1/2
    lb. each of pounded gum-arabic and lump-sugar, 1 oz. of green
    copperas, and 3 lbs. of brandy. Dissolve the gum-arabic in the
    preceding decoction, and add the sugar and copperas: when all is
    dissolved and mixed together, stir in the brandy, mixing it
    smoothly. This mixture will yield 5 or 6 lbs. of a very superior
    polishing paste for boots and shoes.

2242. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that having discharged all the
commissions intrusted to him by his master, such as conveying notes or
messages to friends, or the tradesmen, all of which he should punctually
and promptly attend to, it is his duty to be in waiting when his master
returns home to dress for dinner, or for any other occasion, and to have
all things prepared for this second dressing. Previous to this, he
brings under his notice the cards of visitors who may have called,
delivers the messages be may have received for him, and otherwise
acquits himself of the morning's commissions, and receives his orders
for the remainder of the day. The routine of his evening duty is to have
the dressing-room and study, where there is a separate one, arranged
comfortably for his master, the fires lighted, candles prepared,
dressing-gown and slippers in their place, and aired, and everything in
order that is required for his master's comforts.


FEMALE DOMESTICS.

DUTIES OF THE LADY'S-MAID.

2243. The duties of a lady's-maid are more numerous, and perhaps more
onerous, than those of the valet; for while the latter is aided by the
tailor, the hatter, the linen-draper, and the perfumer, the lady's-maid
has to originate many parts of the mistress's dress herself: she should,
indeed, be a tolerably expert milliner and dressmaker, a good
hairdresser, and possess some chemical knowledge of the cosmetics with
which the toilet-table is supplied, in order to use them with safety and
effect. Her first duty in the morning, after having performed her own
toilet, is to examine the clothes put off by her mistress the evening
before, either to put them away, or to see that they are all in order to
put on again. During the winter, and in wet weather, the dresses should
be carefully examined, and the mud removed. Dresses of tweed, and other
woollen materials, may be laid out on a table and brushed all over; but
in general, even in woollen fabrics, the lightness of the tissues
renders brushing unsuitable to dresses, and it is better to remove the
dust from the folds by beating them lightly with a handkerchief or thin
cloth. Silk dresses should never be brushed, but rubbed with a piece of
merino, or other soft material, of a similar colour, kept for the
purpose. Summer dresses of barège, muslin, mohair, and other light
materials, simply require shaking; but if the muslin be tumbled, it must
be ironed afterwards. If the dresses require slight repair, it should be
done at once: "a stitch in time saves nine."

    2244. The bonnet should be dusted with a light feather plume, in
    order to remove every particle of dust; but this has probably
    been done, as it ought to have been, the night before. Velvet
    bonnets, and other velvet articles of dress, should be cleaned
    with a soft brush. If the flowers with which the bonnet is
    decorated have been crushed or displaced, or the leaves tumbled,
    they should be raised and readjusted by means of flower-pliers.
    If feathers have suffered from damp, they should be held near
    the fire for a few minutes, and restored to their natural state
    by the hand or a soft brush.

    2245. _The Chausserie_, or foot-gear of a lady, is one of the
    few things left to mark her station, and requires special care.
    Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush, or
    wiped with a cloth. Kid or varnished leather should have the mud
    wiped off with a sponge charged with milk, which preserves its
    softness and polish. The following is also an excellent polish
    for applying to ladies' boots, instead of blacking them:--Mix
    equal proportions of sweet-oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz.
    of lamp-black. When all the ingredients are thoroughly
    incorporated, rub the mixture on the boots with the palm of the
    hand, and put them in a cool place to dry. Ladies' blacking,
    which may be purchased in 6d, and 1s. bottles, is also very much
    used for patent leather and kid boots, particularly when they
    are a little worn. This blacking is merely applied with a piece
    of sponge, and the boots should not be put on until the blacking
    is dry und hardened.

2246. These various preliminary offices performed, the lady's-maid
should prepare for dressing her mistress, arranging her dressing-room,
toilet-table, and linen, according to her mistress's wishes and habits.
The details of dressing we need not touch upon,--every lady has her own
mode of doing so; but the maid should move about quietly, perform any
offices about her mistress's person, as lacing stays, gently, and adjust
her linen smoothly.

2247. Having prepared the dressing-room by lighting the fire, sweeping
the hearth, and made everything ready for dressing her mistress, placed
her linen before the fire to air, and laid out the various articles of
dress she is to wear, which will probably have been arranged the
previous evening, the lady's-maid is prepared for the morning's duties.

2248. _Hairdressing_ is the most important part of the lady's-maid's
office. If ringlets are worn, remove the curl-papers, and, after
thoroughly brushing the back hair both above and below, dress it
according to the prevailing fashion. If bandeaux are worn, the hair is
thoroughly brushed and frizzed outside and inside, folding the hair back
round the head, brushing it perfectly smooth, giving it a glossy
appearance by the use of pomades, or oil, applied by the palm of the
hand, smoothing it down with a small brush dipped in bandoline. Double
bandeaux are formed by bringing most of the hair forward, and rolling it
over frizettes made of hair the same colour as that of the wearer: it is
finished behind by plaiting the hair, and arranging it in such a manner
as to look well with the head-dress.

2249. Lessons in hairdressing may be obtained, and at not an
unreasonable charge. If a lady's-maid can afford it, we would advise her
to initiate herself in the mysteries of hairdressing before entering on
her duties. If a mistress finds her maid handy, and willing to learn,
she will not mind the expense of a few lessons, which are almost
necessary, as the fashion and mode of dressing the hair is so
continually changing. Brushes and combs should be kept scrupulously
clean, by washing them about twice a week: to do this oftener spoils the
brushes, as very frequent washing makes them so very soft.

To wash Brushes.

2250. Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, allowing a piece the
size of a walnut to a quart of water. Put the water into a basin, and,
after combing out the hair from the brushes, dip them, bristles
downwards, into the water and out again, keeping the backs and handles
as free from the water as possible. Repeat this until the bristles look
clean; then rinse the brushes in a little cold water; shake them well,
and wipe the handles and backs with a towel, _but not the bristles_, and
set the brushes to dry in the sun, or near the fire; but take care not
to put them too close to it. Wiping the bristles of a brush makes them
soft, as does also the use of soap.

To clean Combs.

2251. If it can be avoided, never wash combs, as the water often makes
the teeth split, and the tortoiseshell or horn of which they are made,
rough. Small brushes, manufactured purposely for cleaning combs, may be
purchased at a trifling cost: with this the comb should be well brushed,
and afterwards wiped with a cloth or towel.

A good Wash for the Hair.

2252. INGREDIENTS.--1 pennyworth of borax, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1 pint
of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Pour the boiling water over the borax and oil; let it cool; then
put the mixture into a bottle. Shake it before using, and apply it with
a flannel. Camphor and borax, dissolved in boiling water and left to
cool, make a very good wash for the hair; as also does rosemary-water
mixed with a little borax. After using any of these washes, when the
hair becomes thoroughly dry, a little pomatum or oil should be rubbed
in, to make it smooth and glossy.

To make Pomade for the Hair.

2253. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of lard, 2 pennyworth of castor-oil; scent.

_Mode_.--Let the lard be unsalted; beat it up well; then add the
castor-oil, and mix thoroughly together with a knife, adding a few drops
of any scent that may be preferred. Put the pomatum into pots, which
keep well covered to prevent it turning rancid.

Another Recipe for Pomatum.

2254. INGREDIENTS.--8 oz. of olive-oil, 1 oz. of spermaceti, 3
pennyworth of essential oil of almonds, 3 pennyworth of essence of
lemon.

_Mode_.--Mix these ingredients together, and store away in jars for use.

To make Bandoline.

2555. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of gum-tragacanth, 1/4 pint of cold water, 3
pennyworth of essence of almonds, 2 teaspoonfuls of old rum.

_Mode_.--Put the gum-tragacanth into a wide-mouthed bottle with the cold
water; let it stand till dissolved, then stir into it the essence of
almonds; let it remain for an hour or two, when pour the rum on the top.
This should make the stock bottle, and when any is required for use, it
is merely necessary to dilute it with a little cold water until the
desired consistency is obtained, and to keep it in a small bottle, well
corked, for use. This bandoline, instead of injuring the hair, as many
other kinds often do, improves it, by increasing its growth, and making
it always smooth and glossy.

An excellent Pomatum.

2256. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of lard, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1/2 pint
of castor-oil, 4 oz. of spermaceti, bergamot, or any other scent;
elder-flower water.

_Mode_.--Wash the lard well in the elder-flower water; drain, and beat
it to a cream. Mix the two oils together, and heat them sufficiently to
dissolve the spermaceti, which should be beaten fine in a mortar. Mix
all these ingredients together with the brandy and whatever kind of
scent may be preferred; and whilst warm pour into glass bottles for use,
keeping them well corked. The best way to liquefy the pomatum is to set
the bottle in a saucepan of warm water. It will remain good for many
months.

To promote the Growth of Hair.

2257. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of olive-oil and spirit of
rosemary; a few drops of oil of nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Mix the ingredients together, rub the roots of the hair every
night with a little of this liniment, and the growth of it will very
soon sensibly increase.

    2258. Our further remarks on dressing must be confined to some
    general advice. In putting on a band, see that it is laid quite
    flat, and is drawn tightly round the waist before it is pinned
    in front; that the pin is a strong one, and that it is secured
    to the stays, so as not to slip up or down, or crease in the
    folds. Arrange the folds of the dress over the crinoline
    petticoats; if the dress fastens behind, put a small pin in the
    slit to prevent it from opening. See that the sleeves fall well
    over the arms. If it is finished with a jacket, or other upper
    dress, see that it fits smoothly under the arms; pull out the
    flounces, and spread out the petticoat at the bottom with the
    hands, so that it falls in graceful folds. In arranging the
    petticoat itself, a careful lady's-maid will see that this is
    firmly fastened round the waist.

    2259. Where sashes are worn, pin the bows securely on the inside
    with a pin, so as not to be visible; then raise the bow with the
    fingers. The collar is arranged and carefully adjusted with
    brooch or bow in the centre.

2260. Having dressed her mistress for breakfast, and breakfasted
herself, the further duties of the lady's-maid will depend altogether
upon the habits of the family, in which hardly two will probably agree.
Where the duties are entirely confined to attendance on her mistress, it
is probable that the bedroom and dressing-room will be committed to her
care; that, the housemaid will rarely enter, except for the weekly or
other periodical cleaning; she will, therefore, have to make her
mistress's bed, and keep it in order; and as her duties are light and
easy, there can be no allowance made for the slightest approach to
uncleanliness or want of order. Every morning, immediately after her
mistress has left it, and while breakfast is on, she should throw the
bed open, by taking off the clothes; open the windows (except in rainy
weather), and leave the room to air for half an hour. After breakfast,
except her attendance on her mistress prevents it, if the rooms are
carpeted, she should sweep them carefully, having previously strewed the
room with moist tea-leaves, dusting every table and chair, taking care
to penetrate to every corner, and moving every article of furniture that
is portable. This done satisfactorily, and having cleaned the
dressing-glass, polished up the furniture and the ornaments, and made
the glass jug and basin clean and bright, emptied all slops, emptied the
water-jugs and filled them with fresh water, and arranged the rooms, the
dressing-room is ready for the mistress when she thinks proper to
appear.

2261. The dressing-room thoroughly in order, the same thing is to be
done in the bedroom, in which she will probably be assisted by the
housemaid to make the bed and empty the slops. In making the bed, she
will study her lady's wishes, whether it is to be hard or soft, sloping
or straight, and see that it is done accordingly.

2262. Having swept the bedroom with equal care, dusted the tables and
chairs, chimney-ornaments, and put away all articles of dress left from
yesterday, and cleaned and put away any articles of jewellery, her next
care is to see, before her mistress goes out, what requires replacing in
her department, and furnish her with a list of them, that she may use
her discretion about ordering them. All this done, she may settle
herself down to any work on which she is engaged. This will consist
chiefly in mending; which is first to be seen to; everything, except
stockings, being mended before washing. Plain work will probably be one
of the lady's-maid's chief employments.

    2263. A waiting-maid, who wishes to make herself useful, will
    study the fashion-books with attention, so as to be able to aid
    her mistress's judgment in dressing, according to the prevailing
    fashion, with such modifications as her style of countenance
    requires. She will also, if she has her mistress's interest at
    heart, employ her spare time in repairing and making up dresses
    which have served one purpose, to serve another also, or turning
    many things, unfitted for her mistress to use, for the younger
    branches of the family. The lady's-maid may thus render herself
    invaluable to her mistress, and increase her own happiness in so
    doing. The exigencies of fashion and luxury are such, that all
    ladies, except those of the very highest rank, will consider
    themselves fortunate in having about them a thoughtful person,
    capable of diverting their finery to a useful purpose.

2264. Among other duties, the lady's-maid should understand the various
processes for washing, and cleaning, and repairing laces; edging of
collars; removing stains and grease-spots from dresses, and similar
processes, for which the following recipes will be found very useful. In
washing--

    2265. _Blonde_, fine toilet-soap is used; the blonde is soaped
    over very slightly, and washed in water in which a little
    fig-blue is dissolved, rubbing it very gently; when clean, dry
    it. Dip it afterwards in very thin gum-water, dry it again in
    linen, spread it out as flat as it will lie, and iron it. Where
    the blonde is of better quality, and wider, it may be stretched
    on a hoop to dry after washing in the blue-water, applying the
    gum with a sponge; or it may be washed finally in water in which
    a lump of sugar has been dissolved, which gives it more the
    appearance of new blonde.

    2266. Lace collars soil very quickly when in contact with the
    neck; they are cleaned by beating the edge of the collar between
    the folds of a fine linen cloth, then washing the edges as
    directed above, and spreading it out on an ironing-board,
    pinning it at each corner with fine pins; then going carefully
    over it with a sponge charged with water in which some
    gum-dragon and fig-blue have been dissolved, to give it a proper
    consistence. To give the collar the same tint throughout, the
    whole collar should be sponged with the same water, taking care
    not to touch the flowers.

2267. A multiplicity of accidents occur to soil and spot dresses, which
should be removed at once. To remove--

    2268. _Grease-spots_ from cotton or woollen materials of fast
    colours, absorbent pastes, purified bullock's-blood, and even
    common soap, are used, applied to the spot when dry. When the
    colours are not fast, use fuller's-earth or pulverized
    potter's-clay, laid in a layer over the spot, and press it with
    a very hot iron.

    2269. For Silks, Moires, and plain or brocaded Satins, begin by
    pouring over the spot two drops of rectified spirits of wine;
    cover it over with a linen cloth, and press it with a hot iron,
    changing the linen instantly. The spot will look tarnished, for
    a portion of the grease still remains: this will be removed
    entirely by a little sulphuric ether dropped on the spot, and a
    very little rubbing. If neatly done, no perceptible mark or
    circle will remain; nor will the lustre of the richest silk be
    changed, the union of the two liquids operating with no
    injurious effects from rubbing.

    2270. _Fruit-spots_ are removed from white and fast-coloured
    cottons by the use of chloride of soda. Commence by cold-soaping
    the article, then touch the spot with a hair-pencil or feather
    dipped in the chloride, dipping it immediately into cold water,
    to prevent the texture of the article being injured.

    2271. _Ink-spots_ are removed, when fresh applied to the spot,
    by a few drops of hot water being poured on immediately
    afterwards. By the same process, iron-mould in linen or calico
    may be removed, dipping immediately in cold water to prevent
    injury to the fabric.

    2272. _Wax_ dropped on a shawl, table-cover, or cloth dress, is
    easily discharged by applying spirits of wine.

    2273. _Syrups or Preserved Fruits_, by washing in lukewarm water
    with a dry cloth, and pressing the spot between two folds of
    clean linen.

    2274. _Essence of Lemon_ will remove grease, but will make a
    spot itself in a few days.

To clean Silk or Ribbons.

2275. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of gin, 1/2 lb. of honey, 1/2 lb. of soft
soap, 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Mix the above ingredients together; then lay each breadth of
silk upon a clean kitchen table or dresser, and scrub it well on the
soiled side with the mixture. Have ready three vessels of cold water;
take each piece of silk at two corners, and dip it up and down in each
vessel, but do not wring it; and take care that each breadth has one
vessel of quite clean water for the last dip. Hang it up dripping for a
minute or two, then dab it in a cloth, and iron it quickly with a very
hot iron.

To remove Paint-spots from Silk Cloth.

2276. If the fabric will bear it, sharp rubbing will frequently entirely
discharge a newly-made paint-stain; but, if this is not successful,
apply spirit of turpentine with a quill till the stains disappear.

To make old Crape look nearly equal to new.

2277. Place a little water in a teakettle, and let it boil until there
is plenty of steam from the spout; then, holding the crape in both
hands, pass it to and fro several times through the steam, and it will
to clean and look nearly equal to new.

2278. Linen.--Before sending linen to wash, the lady's-maid should see
that everything under her charge is properly mended; for her own sake
she should take care that it is sent out in an orderly manner, each
class of garments by themselves, with a proper list, of which she
retains a copy. On its return, it is still more necessary to examine
every piece separately, so that all missing buttons be supplied, and
only the articles properly washed and in perfect repair passed into the
wardrobe.

2279. Ladies who keep a waiting-maid for their own persons are in the
habit of paying visits to their friends, in which it is not unusual for
the maid to accompany them; at all events, it is her duty to pack the
trunks; and this requires not only knowledge but some practice, although
the improved trunks and portmanteaus now made, in which there is a place
for nearly everything, render this more simple than formerly. Before
packing, let the trunks be thoroughly well cleaned, and, if necessary,
lined with paper, and everything intended for packing laid out on the
bed or chairs, so that it may be seen what is to be stowed away; the
nicer articles of dress neatly folded in clean calico wrappers. Having
satisfied herself that everything wanted is laid out, and that it is in
perfect order, the packing is commenced by disposing of the most bulky
articles, the dressing-case and work-box, skirts, and other articles
requiring room, leaving the smaller articles to fill up; finally, having
satisfied herself that all is included, she should lock and cover up the
trunk in its canvas case, and then pack her own box, if she is to
accompany her mistress.

2280. On reaching the house, the lady's-maid will be shown her lady's
apartment; and her duties here are what they were at home; she will
arrange her mistress's things, and learn which is her bell, in order to
go to her when she rings. Her meals will be taken in the housekeeper's
room; and here she must be discreet and guarded in her talk to any one
of her mistress or her concerns. Her only occupation here will be
attending in her lady's room, keeping her things in order, and making
her rooms comfortable for her.

2281. The evening duties of a lady's-maid are pretty nearly a repetition
of those of the morning. She is in attendance when her mistress retires;
she assists her to undress if required, brushes her hair, and renders
such other assistance as is demanded; removes all slops; takes care that
the fire, if any, is safe, before she retires to rest herself.

2282. Ironing is a part of the duties of a lady's-maid, and she should
be able to do it in the most perfect manner when it becomes necessary.
Ironing is often badly done from inattention to a few very simple
requirements. Cleanliness is the first essential: the ironing-board, the
fire, the iron, and the ironing-blanket should all be perfectly clean.
It will not be necessary here to enter into details on ironing, as full
directions are given in the "Duties of the Laundry-maid." A lady's-maid
will have a great deal of "Ironing-out" to do; such as light evening
dresses, muslin dresses, &c., which are not dirty enough to be washed,
but merely require smoothing out to remove the creases. In summer,
particularly, an iron will be constantly required, as also a
skirt-board, which should be covered with a nice clean piece of flannel.
To keep muslin dresses in order, they almost require smoothing out every
time they are worn, particularly if made with many flounces. The
lady's-maid may often have to perform little services for her mistress
which require care; such as restoring the colour to scorched linen, &c.
&c. The following recipe is, we believe, a very good one.

To restore Whiteness to scorched Linen.

2283. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of fuller's-earth, 1 oz.
of dried fowls' dung, 1/2 oz. of soap, the juice of 2 large onions.

_Mode._--Boil all these ingredients together to the consistency of
paste; spread the composition thickly over the damaged part, and if the
threads be not actually consumed, after it has been allowed to dry on,
and the place has subsequently been washed once or twice, every trace of
scorching will disappear.

    2284. _Furs, Feathers, and Woollens_ require the constant care
    of the waiting-maid. Furs and feathers not in constant use
    should be wrapped up in linen washed in lye. From May to
    September they are subject to being made the depositary of the
    moth-eggs. They should be looked too, and shaken and beaten,
    from time to time, in case some of the eggs should have been
    lodged in them, in spite of every precaution; laying them up
    again, or rather folding them up as before, wrapping them in
    brown paper, which is itself a preservative. Shawls and cloaks,
    which would be damaged by such close folds, must be looked to,
    and aired and beaten, putting them away dry before the evening.

Preservatives against the Ravages of Moths.

2285. Place pieces of camphor, cedar-wood, Russia leather,
tobacco-leaves, bog-myrtle, or anything else strongly aromatic, in the
drawers or boxes where furs or other things to be preserved from moths
are kept, and they will never take harm.

    2286. _Jewels_ are generally wrapped up in cotton, and kept in
    their cases; but they are subject to tarnish from exposure to
    the air, and require cleaning. This is done by preparing clean
    soap-suds, using fine toilet-soap. Dip any article of gold,
    silver, gilt, or precious stones into this lye, and dry them by
    brushing with a brush of soft badgers' hair, or a fine sponge;
    afterwards with a piece of fine cloth, and, lastly, with a soft
    leather.

    2287. _Epaulettes_ of gold or silver, and, in general, all
    articles of jewellery, may be dressed by dipping them in spirits
    of wine warmed in a _bain marie,_ or shallow kettle, placed over
    a slow fire or hot-plate.

2288. The valet and lady's-maid, from their supposed influence with
their master and mistress, are exposed to some temptations to which
other servants are less subjected. They are probably in communication
with the tradespeople who supply articles for the toilet; such as
batters, tailors, dressmakers, and perfumers. The conduct of
waiting-maid and valet to these people should be civil but independent,
making reasonable allowance for want of exact punctuality, if any such
can be made: they should represent any inconvenience respectfully, and
if an excuse seems unreasonable, put the matter fairly to master or
mistress, leaving it to them to notice it further, if they think it
necessary. No expectations of a personal character should influence them
one way or the other. It would be acting unreasonably to any domestic to
make them refuse such presents as tradespeople choose to give them; the
utmost that can be expected is that they should not influence their
judgment in the articles supplied--that they should represent them truly
to master or mistress, without fear and without favour. Civility to all,
servility to none, is a good maxim for every one. Deference to a master
and mistress, and to their friends and visitors, is one of the implied
terms of their engagement; and this deference must apply even to what
may be considered their whims. A servant is not to be seated, or wear a
hat in the house, in his master's or mistress's presence; nor offer any
opinion, unless asked for it; nor even to say "good night," or "good
morning," except in reply to that salutation.

To preserve cut Flowers.

2289. A bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may be preserved alive for a long
time by placing them in a glass or vase with fresh water, in which a
little charcoal has been steeped, or a small piece of camphor dissolved.
The vase should be set upon a plate or dish, and covered with a
bell-glass, around the edges of which, when it comes in contact with the
plate, a little water should be poured to exclude the air.

To revive cut Flowers after packing.

2290. Plunge the stems into boiling water, and by the time the water is
cold, the flowers will have revived. Then cut afresh the ends of the
stems, and keep them in fresh cold water.


UPPER AND UNDER HOUSEMAIDS.

2291. Housemaids, in large establishments, have usually one or more
assistants; in this case they are upper and under housemaids. Dividing
the work between them, the upper housemaid will probably reserve for
herself the task of dusting the ornaments and cleaning the furniture of
the principal apartments, but it is her duty to see that every
department is properly attended to. The number of assistants depends on
the number in the family, as well as on the style in which the
establishment is kept up. In wealthy families it is not unusual for
every grown-up daughter to have her waiting-maid, whose duty it is to
keep her mistress's apartments in order, thus abridging the housemaid's
duties. In others, perhaps, one waiting-maid attends on two or three,
when the housemaid's assistance will be more requisite. In fact, every
establishment has some customs peculiar to itself, on which we need not
dwell; the general duties are the _same in all_, perfect cleanliness and
order being the object.


DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID.

2292. "Cleanliness is next to godliness," saith the proverb, and "order"
is in the next degree; the housemaid, then, may be said to be the
handmaiden to two of the most prominent virtues. Her duties are very
numerous, and many of the comforts of the family depend on their
performance; but they are simple and easy to a person naturally clean
and orderly, and desirous of giving satisfaction. In all families,
whatever the habits of the master and mistress, servants will find it
advantageous to rise early; their daily work will thus come easy to
them. If they rise late, there is a struggle to overtake it, which
throws an air of haste and hurry over the whole establishment. Where the
master's time is regulated by early business or professional
engagements, this will, of course, regulate the hours of the servants;
but even where that is not the case, servants will find great personal
convenience in rising early and getting through their work in an orderly
and methodical manner. The housemaid who studies her own ease will
certainly be at her work by six o'clock in the summer, and, probably,
half-past six or seven in the winter months, having spent a reasonable
time in her own chamber in dressing. Earlier than this would, probably,
be an unnecessary waste of coals and candle in winter.

2293. The first duty of the housemaid in winter is to open the shutters
of all the lower rooms in the house, and take up the hearth-rugs of
those rooms which she is going to "do" before breakfast. In some
families, where there is only a cook and housemaid kept, and where the
drawing-rooms are large, the cook has the care of the dining-room, and
the housemaid that of the breakfast-room, library, and drawing-rooms.
After the shutters are all opened, she sweeps the breakfast-room,
sweeping the dust towards the fire-place, of course previously removing
the fonder. She should then lay a cloth (generally made of coarse
wrappering) over the carpet in front of the stove, and on this should
place her housemaid's box, containing black-lead brushes, leathers,
emery-paper, cloth, black lead, and all utensils necessary for cleaning
a grate, with the cinder-pail on the other side.

[Illustration: CARPET-BROOMS.]

2294. She now sweeps up the ashes, and deposits them in her cinder-pail,
which is a japanned tin pail, with a wire-sifter inside, and a
closely-fitting top. In this pail the cinders are sifted, and reserved
for use in the kitchen or under the copper, the ashes only being thrown
away. The cinders disposed of, she proceeds to black-lead the grate,
producing the black lead, the soft brush for laying it on, her blacking
and polishing brushes, from the box which contains her tools. This
housemaid's box should be kept well stocked. Having blackened, brushed,
and polished every part, and made all clean and bright, she now proceeds
to lay the fire. Sometimes it is very difficult to get a proper polish
to black grates, particularly if they have been neglected, and allowed
to rust at all. Brunswick black, which is an excellent varnish for
grates, may be prepared in the following manner:--

[Illustration: STOVE BRUSHES.]

[Illustration: HOUSEMAID'S BOX.]

2295. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of common asphaltum, 1/2 pint of linseed oil,
1 quart of oil of turpentine.

_Mode._--Melt the asphaltum, and add gradually to it the other two
ingredients. Apply this with a small painter's brush, and leave it to
become perfectly dry. The grate will need no other cleaning, but will
merely require dusting every day, and occasionally brushing with a dry
black-lead brush. This is, of course, when no fires are used. When they
are required, the bars, cheeks, and back of the grate will need
black-leading in the usual manner.

    2296. _Fire-lighting,_ however simple, is an operation requiring
    some skill; a fire is readily made by laying a few cinders at
    the bottom in open order; over this a few pieces of paper, and
    over that again eight or ten pieces of dry wood; over the wood,
    a course of moderate-sized pieces of coal, taking care to leave
    hollow spaces between for air at the centre; and taking care to
    lay the whole well back in the grate, so that the smoke may go
    up the chimney, and not into the room. This done, fire the paper
    with a match from below, and, if properly laid, it will soon
    burn up; the stream of flame from the wood and paper soon
    communicating to the coals and cinders, provided there is plenty
    of air at the centre.

    2297. A new method of lighting a fire is sometimes practised
    with advantage, the fire lighting from the top and burning down,
    in place of being lighted and burning up from below. This is
    arranged by laying the coals at the bottom, mixed with a few
    good-sized cinders, and the wood at the top, with another layer
    of coals and some paper over it; the paper is lighted in the
    usual way, and soon burns down to a good fire, with some economy
    of fuel, as is said.

2298. Bright grates require unceasing attention to keep them in perfect
order. A day should never pass without the housemaid rubbing with a dry
leather the polished parts of a grate, as also the fender and
fire-irons. A careful and attentive housemaid should have no occasion
ever to use emery-paper for any part but the bars, which, of course,
become blackened by the fire. (Some mistresses, to save labour, have a
double set of bars, one set bright for the summer, and another black set
to use when fires are in requisition.) When bright grates are once
neglected, small rust-spots begin to show themselves, which a plain
leather will not remove; the following method of cleaning them must then
be resorted to:--First, thoroughly clean with emery-paper; then take a
large smooth pebble from the road, sufficiently large to hold
comfortably in the hand, with which rub the steel backwards and forwards
one way, until the desired polish is obtained. It may appear at first to
scratch, but continue rubbing, and the result will be success. The
following is also an excellent polish for bright stoves and steel
articles:--

2299. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of turpentine, 1 ditto of sweet oil,
emery powder.

_Mode._--Mix the turpentine and sweet oil together, stirring in
sufficient emery powder to make the mixture of the thickness of cream.
Put it on the article with a piece of soft flannel, rub off quickly with
another piece, then polish with a little dry emery powder and clean
leather.

2300. The several fires lighted, the housemaid proceeds with her
dusting, and polishing the several pieces of furniture in the
breakfast-parlour, leaving no corner unvisited. Before sweeping the
carpet, it is a good practice to sprinkle it all over with tea-leaves,
which not only lay all dust, but give a slightly fragrant smell to the
room. It is now in order for the reception of the family; and where
there is neither footman nor parlour-maid, she now proceeds to the
dressing-room, and lights her mistress's fire, if she is in the habit of
having one to dress by. Her mistress is called, hot water placed in the
dressing-room for her use, her clothes--as far as they are under the
house-maid's charge--put before the fire to air, hanging a fire-guard on
the bars where there is one, while she proceeds to prepare the
breakfast.

2301. In summer the housemaid's work is considerably abridged: she
throws open the windows of the several rooms not occupied as bedrooms,
that they may receive the fresh morning air before they are occupied;
she prepares the breakfast-room by sweeping the carpet, rubbing tables
and chairs, dusting mantel-shelf and picture-frames with a light brush,
dusting the furniture, and beating and sweeping the rug; she cleans the
grate when necessary, and replaces the white paper or arranges the
shavings with which it is filled, leaving everything clean and tidy for
breakfast. It is not enough, however, in cleaning furniture, just to
pass lightly over the surface; the rims and legs of tables, and the
backs and legs of chairs and sofas, should be rubbed vigorously daily;
if there is a book-case, every corner of every pane and ledge requires
to be carefully wiped, so that not a speck of dust can be found in the
room.

2302. After the breakfast-room is finished, the housemaid should proceed
to sweep down the stairs, commencing at the top, whilst the cook has the
charge of the hall, door-step, and passages. After this she should go
into the drawing-room, cover up every article of furniture that is
likely to spoil, with large dusting-sheets, and put the chairs together,
by turning them seat to seat, and, in fact, make as much room as
possible, by placing all the loose furniture in the middle of the room,
whilst she sweeps the corners and sides. When this is accomplished, the
furniture can then be put back in its place, and the middle of the room
swept, sweeping the dirt, as before said, towards the fireplace. The
same rules should be observed in cleaning the drawing-room grates as we
have just stated, putting down the cloth, before commencing, to prevent
the carpet from getting soiled. In the country, a room would not require
sweeping thoroughly like this more than twice a week; but the housemaid
should go over it every morning with a dust-pan and broom, taking up
every crumb and piece she may see. After the sweeping she should leave
the room, shut the door, and proceed to lay the breakfast. Where there
is neither footman nor parlour-maid kept, the duty of laying the
breakfast-cloth rests on the housemaid.

[Illustration: BANISTER-BROOM.]

[Illustration: STAIRCASE-BROOM.]

2303. Before laying the cloth for breakfast, the heater of the tea-urn
is to be placed in the hottest part of the kitchen fire; or, where the
kettle is used, boiled on the kitchen fire, and then removed to the
parlour, where it is kept hot. Having washed herself free from the dust
arising from the morning's work, the housemaid collects the
breakfast-things on her tray, takes the breakfast-cloth from the napkin
press, and carries them all on the tray into the parlour; arranges them
on the table, placing a sufficiency of knives, forks, and salt-cellars
for the family, and takes the tray back to the pantry; gets a supply of
milk, cream, and bread; fills the butter-dish, taking care that the salt
is plentiful, and soft and dry, and that hot plates and egg-cups are
ready where warm meat or eggs are served, and that butter-knife and
bread-knife are in their places. And now she should give the signal for
breakfast, holding herself ready to fill the urn with hot water, or hand
the kettle, and take in the rolls, toast, and other eatables, with which
the cook supplies her, when the breakfast-room bell rings; bearing in
mind that she is never to enter the parlour with dirty hands or with a
dirty apron, and that everything is to be handed on a tray; that she is
to hand everything she may be required to supply, on the left hand of
the person she is serving, and that all is done quietly and without
bustle or hurry. In some families, where there is a large number to
attend on, the cook waits at breakfast whilst the housemaid is busy
upstairs in the bedrooms, or sweeping, dusting, and putting the
drawing-room in order.

2304. Breakfast served, the housemaid proceeds to the bed-chambers,
throws up the sashes, if not already done, pulls up the blinds, throwing
back curtains at the same time, and opens the beds, by removing the
clothes, placing them over a horse, or, failing that, over the backs of
chairs. She now proceeds to empty the slops. In doing this, everything
is emptied into the slop-pail, leaving a little scalding-hot water for a
minute in such vessels as require it; adding a drop of turpentine to the
water, when that is not sufficient to cleanse them. The basin is
emptied, well rinsed with clean water, and carefully wiped; the ewers
emptied and washed; finally, the water-jugs themselves emptied out and
rinsed, and wiped dry. As soon as this is done, she should remove and
empty the pails, taking care that they also are well washed, scalded,
and wiped as soon as they are empty.

2305. Next follows bedmaking, at which the cook or kitchen-maid, where
one is kept, usually assists; but, before beginning, velvet chairs, or
other things injured by dust, should be removed to another room. In
bedmaking, the fancy of its occupant should be consulted; some like beds
sloping from the top towards the feet, swelling slightly in the middle;
others, perfectly flat: a good housemaid will accommodate each bed to
the taste of the sleeper, taking care to shake, beat, and turn it well
in the process. Some persons prefer sleeping on the mattress; in which
case a feather bed is usually beneath, resting on a second mattress, and
a straw paillasse at the bottom. In this case, the mattresses should
change places daily; the feather bed placed on the mattress shaken,
beaten, taken up and opened several times, so as thoroughly to separate
the feathers: if too large to be thus handled, the maid should shake and
beat one end first, and then the other, smoothing it afterwards equally
all over into the required shape, and place the mattress gently over it.
Any feathers which escape in this process a tidy servant will put back
through the seam of the tick; she will also be careful to sew up any
stitch that gives way the moment it is discovered. The bedclothes are
laid on, beginning with an under blanket and sheet, which are tucked
under the mattress at the bottom. The bolster is then beaten and shaken,
and put on, the top of the sheet rolled round it, and the sheet tucked
in all round. The pillows and other bedclothes follow, and the
counterpane over all, which should fall in graceful folds, and at equal
distance from the ground all round. The curtains are drawn to the head
and folded neatly across the bed, and the whole finished in a smooth and
graceful manner. Where spring-mattresses are used, care should be taken
that the top one is turned every day. The housemaid should now take up
in a dustpan any pieces that may be on the carpet; she should dust the
room, shut the door, and proceed to another room. When all the bedrooms
are finished, she should dust the stairs, and polish the handrail of the
banisters, and see that all ledges, window-sills, &c., are quite free
from dust. It will be necessary for the housemaid to divide her work, so
that she may not have too much to do on certain days, and not sufficient
to fill up her time on other days. In the country, bedrooms should be
swept and thoroughly cleaned once a week; and to be methodical and
regular in her work, the housemaid should have certain days for doing
certain rooms thoroughly. For instance, the drawing-room on Monday, two
bedrooms on Tuesday, two on Wednesday, and so on, reserving a day for
thoroughly cleaning the plate, bedroom candlesticks, &c. &c., which she
will have to do where there is no parlour-maid or footman kept. By this
means the work will be divided, and there will be no unnecessary
bustling and hurrying, as is the case where the work is done any time,
without rule or regulation.

[Illustration: SCRUBBING-BRUSH.]

2306. Once a week, when a bedroom is to be thoroughly cleaned, the
house-maid should commence by brushing the mattresses of the bed before
it is made; she should then make it, shake the curtains, lay them
smoothly on the bed, and pin or tuck up the bottom valance, so that she
may be able to sweep under the bed. She should then unloop the
window-curtains, shake them, and pin them high up out of the way. After
clearing the dressing-table, and the room altogether of little articles
of china, &c. &c., she should shake the toilet-covers, fold them up, and
lay them on the bed, over which a large dusting-sheet should be thrown.
She should then sweep the room; first of all sprinkling the carpet with
well-squeezed tea-leaves, or a little freshly-pulled grass, when this is
obtainable. After the carpet is swept, and the grate cleaned, she should
wash with soap and water, with a little soda in it, the washing-table
apparatus, removing all marks or fur round the jugs, caused by the
water. The water-bottles and tumblers must also have her attention, as
well as the top of the washing-stand, which should be cleaned with soap
and flannel if it be marble: if of polished mahogany, no soap must be
used. When these are all clean and arranged in their places, the
housemaid should scrub the floor where it is not covered with carpet,
under the beds, and round the wainscot. She should use as little soap
and soda as possible, as too free a use of these articles is liable to
give the boards a black appearance. In the country, cold soft water, a
clean scrubbing-brush, and a willing arm, are all that are required to
make bedroom floors look white. In winter it is not advisable to scrub
rooms too often, as it is difficult to dry them thoroughly at that
season of the year, and nothing is more dangerous than to allow persons
to sleep in a damp room. The housemaid should now dust the furniture,
blinds, ornaments, &c.; polish the looking-glass; arrange the
toilet-cover and muslin; remove the cover from the bed, and straighten
and arrange the curtains and counterpane. A bedroom should be cleaned
like this every week. There are times, however, when it is necessary to
have the carpet up; this should be done once a year in the country, and
twice a year in large cities. The best time for these arrangements is
spring and autumn, when the bed-furniture requires changing to suit the
seasons of the year. After arranging the furniture, it should all be
well rubbed and polished; and for this purpose the housemaid should
provide herself with an old silk pocket-handkerchief, to finish the
polishing.

[Illustration: LONG HAIR-BROOM.]

2307. As modern furniture is now nearly always French-polished, it
should often be rubbed with an old silk rubber, or a fine cloth or
duster, to keep it free from smears. Three or four times a year any of
the following polishes may be applied with very great success, as any of
them make French-polished furniture look very well. One precaution must
be taken,--not to put too much of the polish on at one time, and _to
rub, not smear_ it over the articles.


FURNITURE POLISH.

2308. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of linseed-oil, 1/4 pint of vinegar, 1 oz.
of spirits of salts, 1/2 oz. of muriatic antimony.

_Mode_.--Mix all well together, and shake before using.


FURNITURE POLISH.

2309. INGREDIENTS.--Equal proportions of linseed-oil, turpentine,
vinegar, and spirits of wine.

_Mode_.--When used, shake the mixture well, and rub on the furniture
with a piece of linen rag, and polish with a clean duster. Vinegar and
oil, rubbed in with flannel, and the furniture rubbed with a clean
duster, produce a very good polish.


FURNITURE PASTE.

2310. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of common beeswax, 1 oz. of white wax, 1 oz.
of curd soap, 1 pint of turpentine, 1 pint of boiled water.

[Illustration: FURNITURE BRUSH.]

_Mode_.--Mix the ingredients together, adding the water when cold; shake
the mixture frequently in the bottle, and do not use it for 48 hours
after it is made. It should be applied with a piece of flannel, the
furniture polished with a duster, and then with an old silk rubber.

2311. The chambers are finished, the chamber candlesticks brought down
and cleaned, the parlour lamps trimmed;--and here the housemaid's utmost
care is required. In cleaning candlesticks, as in every other cleaning,
she should have cloths and brushes kept for that purpose alone; the
knife used to scrape them should be applied to no other purpose; the
tallow-grease should be thrown into a box kept for the purpose; the same
with everything connected with the lamp-trimming; the best mode of doing
which she will do well to learn from the tradesman who supplies the oil;
always bearing in mind, however, that without perfect cleanliness, which
involves occasional scalding, no lamp can be kept in order.

2312. The drawing and dining-room, inasmuch as everything there is more
costly and valuable, require even more care. When the carpets are of the
kind known as velvet-pile, they require to be swept firmly by a hard
whisk brush, made of cocoanut fibre.

2313. The furniture must be carefully gone over in every corner with a
soft cloth, that it may be left perfectly free from dust; or where that
is beyond reach, with a brush made of long feathers, or a goose's wing.
The sofas are swept in the same manner, slightly beaten, the cushions
shaken and smoothed, the picture-frames swept, and everything arranged
in its proper place. This, of course, applies to dining as well as
drawing-room and morning-room. And now the housemaid may dress herself
for the day, and prepare for the family dinner, at which she must
attend.

2314. We need not repeat the long instructions already given for laying
the dinner-table. At the family dinner, even where no footman waits, the
routine will be the same. In most families the cloth is laid with the
slips on each side, with napkins, knives, forks, spoons, and wine and
finger glasses on all occasions.

[Illustration: BUTLER'S TRAY AND STAND.]

2315. She should ascertain that her plate is in order, glasses free from
smears, water-bottles and decanters the same, and everything ready on
her tray, that she may be able to lay her cloth properly. Few things add
more to the neat and comfortable appearance of a dinner-table than
well-polished plate; indeed, the state of the plate is a certain
indication of a well-managed or ill-managed household. Nothing is easier
than to keep plate in good order, and yet many servants, from stupidity
and ignorance, make it the greatest trouble of all things under their
care. It should be remembered, that it is utterly impossible to make
greasy silver take a polish; and that as spoons and forks in daily use
are continually in contact with grease, they must require good washing
in soap-and-water to remove it. Silver should be washed with a soapy
flannel in one water, rinsed in another, and then wiped dry with a dry
cloth. The plate so washed may be polished with the plate-rags, as in
the following directions:--Once a week all the plate should receive a
thorough cleaning with the hartshorn powder, as directed in the first
recipe for cleaning plate; and where the housemaid can find time, rubbed
every day with the plate-rags.

    2316. Hartshorn, we may observe, is one of the best possible
    ingredients for plate-powder in daily use. It leaves on the
    silver a deep, dark polish, and at the same time does less
    injury than anything else. It has also the advantage of being
    very cheap; almost all the ordinary powders sold in boxes
    containing more or less of quicksilver, in some form or another;
    and this in process of time is sure to make the plate brittle.
    If any one wishes to be convinced of the effect of quicksilver
    on plate, he has only to rub a little of it on one place for
    some time,--on the handle of a silver teaspoon for instance, and
    he will find it break in that spot with very little pressure.

To Clean Plate.

_A very excellent method._

[Illustration: PLATE-BRUSH.]

2317. Wash the plate well to remove all grease, in a strong lather of
common yellow soap and boiling water, and wipe it quite dry; then mix as
much hartshorn powder as will be required, into a thick paste, with cold
water or spirits of wine; smear this lightly over the plate with a piece
of soft rag, and leave it for some little time to dry. When perfectly
dry, brush it off quite clean with a soft plate-brush, and polish the
plate with a dry leather. If the plate be very dirty, or much tarnished,
spirits of wine will be found to answer better than the water for mixing
the paste.

Plate-rags for daily use.

2318. Boil soft rags (nothing is better for the purpose than the tops of
old cotton stockings) in a mixture of new milk and hartshorn powder, in
the proportion of 1 oz. of powder to a pint of milk; boil them for 5
minutes; wring them as soon as they are taken out, for a moment, in cold
water, and dry them before the fire. With these rags rub the plate
briskly as soon as it has been well washed and dried after daily use. A
most beautiful deep polish will be produced, and the plate will require
nothing more than merely to be dusted with a leather or a dry soft
cloth, before it is again put on the table.

2319. For waiting at table, the housemaid should be neatly and cleanly
dressed, and, if possible, her dress made with closed sleeves, the large
open ones dipping and falling into everything on the table, and being
very much in the way. She should not wear creaking boots, and should
move about the room as noiselessly as possible, anticipating people's
wants by handing them things without being asked for them, and
altogether be as quiet as possible. It will be needless here to repeat
what we have already said respecting waiting at table, in the duties of
the butler and footman: rules that are good to be observed by them, are
equally good for the parlour-maid or housemaid.

2320. The housemaid having announced that dinner is on the table, will
hand the soup, fish, meat, or side-dishes to the different members of
the family; but in families who do not spend much of the day together,
they will probably prefer being alone at dinner and breakfast; the
housemaid will be required, after all are helped, if her master does not
wish her to stay in the room, to go on with her work of cleaning up in
the pantry, and answer the bell when rung. In this case she will place a
pile of plates on the table or a dumbwaiter, within reach of her master
and mistress, and leave the room.

[Illustration: CRUMB-BRUSH].

2321. Dinner over, the housemaid removes the plates and dishes on the
tray, places the dirty knives and forks in the basket prepared for them,
folds up the napkins in the ring which indicates by which member of the
family it has been used, brushes off the crumbs on the hand-tray kept
for the purpose, folds up the table-cloth in the folds already made, and
places it in the linen-press to be smoothed out. After every meal the
table should be rubbed, all marks from hot plates removed, and the
table-cover thrown over, and the room restored to its usual order. If
the family retire to the drawing-room, or any other room, it is a good
practice to throw up the sash to admit fresh air and ventilate the room.

2322. The housemaid's evening service consists in washing up the
dinner-things, the plate, plated articles, and glasses, restoring
everything to its place; cleaning up her pantry, and putting away
everything for use when next required; lastly, preparing for tea, as the
time approaches, by setting the things out on the tray, getting the urn
or kettle ready, with cream and other things usually partaken of at that
meal.

2323. In summer-time the windows of all the bedrooms, which have been
closed during the heat of the day, should be thrown open for an hour or
so after sunset, in order to air them. Before dark they should be
closed, the bedclothes turned down, and the night-clothes laid in order
for use when required. During winter, where fires are required in the
dressing-rooms, they should be lighted an hour before the usual time of
retiring, placing a fire-guard before each fire. At the same time, the
night-things on the horse should be placed before it to be aired, with a
tin can of hot water, if the mistress is in the habit of washing before
going to bed. We may add, that there is no greater preservative of
beauty than washing the face every night in hot water. The housemaid
will probably be required to assist her mistress to undress and put her
dress in order for the morrow; in which case her duties are very much
those of the lady's-maid.

2324. And now the fire is made up for the night, the fireguard replaced,
and everything in the room in order for the night, the housemaid taking
care to leave the night-candle and matches together in a convenient
place, should they be required. It is usual in summer to remove all
highly fragrant flowers from sleeping-rooms, the impression being that
their scent is injurious in a close chamber.

2325. On leisure days, the housemaid should be able to do some
needlework for her mistress,--such as turning and mending sheets and
darning the house linen, or assist her in anything she may think fit to
give her to do. For this reason it is almost essential that a housemaid,
in a small family, should be an expert needlewoman; as, if she be a good
manager and an active girl, she will have time on her hands to get
through plenty of work.

2326. _Periodical Cleanings_.--Besides the daily routine which we have
described, there are portions of every house which can only be
thoroughly cleaned occasionally; at which time the whole house usually
undergoes a more thorough cleaning than is permitted in the general way.
On these occasions it is usual to begin at the top of the house and
clean downwards; moving everything out of the room; washing the
wainscoting or paint with soft soap and water; pulling down the beds and
thoroughly cleansing all the joints; "scrubbing" the floor; beating
feather beds, mattress, and paillasse, and thoroughly purifying every
article of furniture before it is put back in its place.

2327. This general cleaning usually takes place in the spring or early
summer, when the warm curtains of winter are replaced by the light and
cheerful muslin curtains. Carpets are at the same time taken up and
beaten, except where the mistress of the house has been worried into an
experiment by the often-reiterated question, "Why beat your carpets?" In
this case she will probably have made up her mind to try the cleaning
process, and arranged with the company to send for them on the morning
when cleaning commenced. It is hardly necessary to repeat, that on this
occasion every article is to be gone over, the French-polished furniture
well rubbed and polished. The same thorough system of cleaning should be
done throughout the house; the walls cleaned where painted, and swept
down with a soft broom or feather brush where papered; the window and
bed curtains, which have been replaced with muslin ones, carefully
brushed, or, if they require it, cleaned; lamps not likely to be
required, washed out with hot water, dried, and cleaned. The several
grates are now to be furnished with their summer ornaments; and we know
none prettier than the following, which the housemaid may provide at a
small expense to her mistress:--Purchase two yards and a half of
crinoline muslin, and tear it into small strips, the selvage way of the
material, about an inch wide; strip this thread by thread on each side,
leaving the four centre threads; this gives about six-and-thirty pieces,
fringed on each side, which are tied together at one end, and fastened
to the trap of the register, while the threads, unravelled, are spread
gracefully about the grate, the lower part of which is filled with paper
shavings. This makes a very elegant and very cheap ornament, which is
much stronger, besides, than those usually purchased.

[Illustration: CORNICE-BRUSH.]

[Illustration: HOUSE-PAIL.]

[Illustration: DUSTING-BRUSH.]

2328. As winter approaches, this house-cleaning will have to be
repeated, and the warm bed and window curtains replaced. The process of
scouring and cleaning is again necessary, and must be gone through,
beginning at the top, and going through the house, down to the kitchens.

2329. Independently of these daily and periodical cleanings, other
occupations will present themselves from time to time, which the
housemaid will have to perform. When spots show on polished furniture,
they can generally be restored by soap-and-water and a sponge, the
polish being brought out by using a little polish, and then well rubbing
it. Again, drawers which draw out stiffly may be made to move more
easily if the spot where they press is rubbed over with a little soap.

2330. Chips broken off any of the furniture should be collected and
replaced, by means of a little glue applied to it. Liquid glue, which is
sold prepared in bottles, is very useful to have in the house, as it
requires no melting; and anything broken can be so quickly repaired.

2331. Breaking glass and china is about the most disagreeable thing that
can happen in a family, and it is, probably, a greater annoyance to a
right-minded servant than to the mistress. A neat-handed housemaid may
sometimes repair these breakages, where they are not broken in very
conspicuous places, by joining the pieces very neatly together with a
cement made as follows:--Dissolve an ounce of gum mastic in a quantity
of highly-rectified spirits of wine; then soften an ounce of isinglass
in warm water, and, finally, dissolve it in rum or brandy, till it forms
a thick jelly. Mix the isinglass and gum mastic together, adding a
quarter of an ounce of finely-powdered gum ammoniac; put the whole into
an earthen pipkin, and in a warm place, till they are thoroughly
incorporated together; pour it into a small phial, and cork it down for
use.

2332. In using it, dissolve a small piece of the cement in a silver
teaspoon over a lighted candle. The broken pieces of glass or china
being warmed, and touched with the now liquid cement, join the parts
neatly together, and hold in their places till the cement has set; then
wipe away the cement adhering to the edge of the joint, and leave it for
twelve hours without touching it: the joint will be as strong as the
china itself, and if neatly done, it will show no joining. It is
essential that neither of the pieces be wetted either with hot or cold
water.


USEFUL RECIPES FOR HOUSEMAIDS.

To clean Marble.

2333. Mix with 1/4 pint of soap lees, 1/2 gill of turpentine, sufficient
pipe-clay and bullock's gall to make the whole into rather a thick
paste. Apply it to the marble with a soft brush, and after a day or two,
when quite dry, rub it off with a soft rag. Apply this a second or third
time till the marble is quite clean.


Another method.

2334. Take two parts of soda, one of pumice-stone, and one of
finely-powdered chalk. Sift these through a fine sieve, and mix them
into a paste with water. Rub this well all over the marble, and the
stains will be removed; then wash it with soap-and-water, and a
beautiful bright polish will be produced.


To clean Floorcloth.

2335. After having washed the floorcloth in the usual manner with a damp
flannel, wet it all over with milk and rub it well with a dry cloth,
when a most beautiful polish will be brought out. Some persons use for
rubbing a well-waxed flannel; but this in general produces an unpleasant
slipperiness, which is not the case with the milk.


To clean Decanters.

2336. Roll up in small pieces some soft brown or blotting paper; wet
them, and soap them well. Put them into the decanters about one quarter
full of warm water; shake them well for a few minutes, then rinse with
clear cold water; wipe the outsides with a nice dry cloth, put the
decanters to drain, and when dry they will be almost as bright as new
ones.


To brighten Gilt Frames.

2337. Take sufficient flour of sulphur to give a golden tinge to about
1-1/2 pint of water, and in this boil 4 or 5 bruised onions, or garlic,
which will answer the same purpose. Strain off the liquid, and with it,
when cold, wash, with a soft brush, any gilding which requires
restoring, and when dry it will come out as bright as new work.


To preserve bright Grates or Fire-irons from Rust.

2338. Make a strong paste of fresh lime and water, and with a fine brush
smear it as thickly as possible over all the polished surface requiring
preservation. By this simple means, all the grates and fire-irons in an
empty house may be kept for months free from harm, without further care
or attention.


German Furniture-Gloss.

2339. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. yellow wax, 1 oz. black rosin, 2 oz. of oil
of turpentine.

_Mode_.--Cut the wax into small pieces, and melt it in a pipkin, with
the rosin pounded very fine. Stir in gradually, while these two
ingredients are quite warm, the oil of turpentine. Keep this composition
well covered for use in a tin or earthen pot. A little of this gloss
should be spread on a piece of coarse woollen cloth, and the furniture
well rubbed with it; afterwards it should be polished with a fine cloth.


DUTIES OF THE MAID-OF-ALL-WORK.

2340. The general servant, or maid-of-all-work, is perhaps the only one
of her class deserving of commiseration: her life is a solitary one, and
in, some places, her work is never done. She is also subject to rougher
treatment than either the house or kitchen-maid, especially in her
earlier career: she starts in life, probably a girl of thirteen, with
some small tradesman's wife as her mistress, just a step above her in
the social scale; and although the class contains among them many
excellent, kind-hearted women, it also contains some very rough
specimens of the feminine gender, and to some of these it occasionally
falls to give our maid-of-all-work her first lessons in her multifarious
occupations: the mistress's commands are the measure of the
maid-of-all-work's duties. By the time she has become a tolerable
servant, she is probably engaged in some respectable tradesman's house,
where she has to rise with the lark, for she has to do in her own person
all the work which in larger establishments is performed by cook,
kitchen-maid, and housemaid, and occasionally the part of a footman's
duty, which consists in carrying messages.

2341. The general servant's duties commence by opening the shutters (and
windows, if the weather permits) of all the lower apartments in the
house; she should then brush up her kitchen-range, light the fire, clear
away the ashes, clean the hearth, and polish with a leather the bright
parts of the range, doing all as rapidly and as vigorously as possible,
that no more time be wasted than is necessary. After putting on the
kettle, she should then proceed to the dining-room or parlour to get it
in order for breakfast. She should first roll up the rug, take up the
fender, shake and fold up the table-cloth, then sweep the room, carrying
the dirt towards the fireplace; a coarse cloth should then be laid down
over the carpet, and she should proceed to clean the grate, having all
her utensils close to her. When the grate is finished, the ashes cleared
away, the hearth cleaned, and the fender put back in its place, she must
dust the furniture, not omitting the legs of the tables and chairs; and
if there are any ornaments or things on the sideboard, she must not dust
round them, but lift them up on to another place, dust well where they
have been standing, and then replace the things. Nothing annoys a
particular mistress so much as to find, when she comes down stairs,
different articles of furniture looking as if they had never been
dusted. If the servant is at all methodical, and gets into a habit of
_doing_ a room in a certain way, she will scarcely ever leave her duties
neglected. After the rug is put down, the table-cloth arranged, and
everything in order, she should lay the cloth for breakfast, and then
shut the dining-room door.

2342. The hall must now be swept, the mats shaken, the door-step
cleaned, and any brass knockers or handles polished up with the leather.
If the family breakfast very early, the tidying of the hall must then be
deferred till after that meal. After cleaning the boots that are
absolutely required, the servant should now wash her hands and face, put
on a clean white apron, and be ready for her mistress when she comes
down stairs. In families where there is much work to do before
breakfast, the master of the house frequently has two pairs of boots in
wear, so that they may be properly cleaned when the servant has more
time to do them, in the daytime. This arrangement is, perhaps, scarcely
necessary in the summer-time, when there are no grates to clean every
morning; but in the dark days of winter it is only kind and thoughtful
to lighten a servant-of-all-work's duties as much as possible.

[Illustration: BLACKING-BRUSH BOX.]

2343. She will now carry the urn into the dining-room, where her
mistress will make the tea or coffee, and sometimes will boil the eggs,
to insure them being done to her liking. In the mean time the servant
cooks, if required, the bacon, kidneys, fish, &c.;--if cold meat is to
be served, she must always send it to table on a clean dish, and nicely
garnished with tufts of parsley, if this is obtainable.

2344. After she has had her own breakfast, and whilst the family are
finishing theirs, she should go upstairs into the bedrooms, open all the
windows, strip the clothes off the beds, and leave them to air whilst
she is clearing away the breakfast things. She should then take up the
crumbs in a dustpan from under the table, put the chairs in their
places, and sweep up the hearth.

2345. The breakfast things washed up, the kitchen should be tidied, so
that it may be neat when her mistress comes in to give the orders for
the day: after receiving these orders, the servant should go upstairs
again, with a jug of boiling water, the slop-pail, and two cloths. After
emptying the slops, and scalding the vessels with the boiling water, and
wiping them thoroughly dry, she should wipe the top of the wash-table
and arrange it all in order. She then proceeds to make the beds, in
which occupation she is generally assisted by the mistress, or, if she
have any daughters, by one of them. Before commencing to make the bed,
the servant should put on a large bed-apron, kept for this purpose only,
which should be made very wide, to button round the waist and meet
behind, while it should be made as long as the dress. By adopting this
plan, the blacks and dirt on servants' dresses (which at all times it is
impossible to help) will not rub off on to the bed-clothes, mattresses,
and bed furniture. When the beds are made, the rooms should be dusted,
the stairs lightly swept down, hall furniture, closets, &c., dusted. The
lady of the house, where there is but one servant kept, frequently takes
charge of the drawing-room herself, that is to say, dusting it; the
servant sweeping, cleaning windows, looking-glasses, grates, and rough
work of that sort. If there are many ornaments and knick-knacks about
the room, it is certainly better for the mistress to dust these herself,
as a maid-of-all-work's hands are not always in a condition to handle
delicate ornaments.

2346. Now she has gone the rounds of the house and seen that all is in
order, the servant goes to her kitchen to see about the cooking of the
dinner, in which very often her mistress will assist her. She should put
on a coarse apron with a bib to do her dirty work in, which may be
easily replaced by a white one if required.

2347. Half an hour before dinner is ready, she should lay the cloth,
that everything may be in readiness when she is dishing up the dinner,
and take all into the dining-room that is likely to be required, in the
way of knives, forks, spoons, bread, salt, water, &c. &c. By exercising
a little forethought, much confusion and trouble may be saved both to
mistress and servant, by getting everything ready for the dinner in good
time.

2348. After taking in the dinner, when every one is seated, she removes
the covers, hands the plates round, and pours out the beer; and should
be careful to hand everything on the left side of the person she is
waiting on.

2349. We need scarcely say that a maid-of-all-work cannot stay in the
dining-room during the whole of dinner-time, as she must dish up her
pudding, or whatever is served after the first course. When she sees
every one helped, she should leave the room to make her preparations for
the next course; and anything that is required, such as bread, &c.,
people may assist themselves to in the absence of the servant.

2350. When the dinner things are cleared away, the servant should sweep
up the crumbs in the dining-room, sweep the hearth, and lightly dust the
furniture, then sit down to her own dinner.

[Illustration: KNIFE-CLEANING MACHINE]

2351. After this, she washes up and puts away the dinner things, sweeps
the kitchen, dusts and tidies it, and puts on the kettle for tea. She
should now, before dressing herself for the afternoon, clean her knives,
boots, and shoes, and do any other dirty work in the scullery that may
be necessary. Knife-cleaning machines are rapidly taking the place, in
most households, of the old knife-board. The saving of labour by the
knife-cleaner is very great, and its performance of the work is very
satisfactory. Small and large machines are manufactured, some cleaning
only four knives, whilst others clean as many as twelve at once. Nothing
can be more simple than the process of machine knife-cleaning; and
although, in a very limited household, the substitution of the machine
for the board may not be necessary, yet we should advise all
housekeepers, to whom the outlay is not a difficulty, to avail
themselves of the services of a machine. We have already spoken of its
management in the "Duties of the Footman," No. 2177.

2352. When the servant is dressed, she takes in the tea, and after tea
turns down the beds, sees that the water-jugs and bottles are full,
closes the windows, and draws down the blinds. If the weather is very
warm, these are usually left open until the last thing at night, to cool
the rooms.

2353. The routine of a general servant's duties depends upon the kind of
situation she occupies; but a systematic maid-of-all-work should so
contrive to divide her work, that every day in the week may have its
proper share. By this means she is able to keep the house clean with
less fatigue to herself than if she left all the cleaning to do at the
end of the week. Supposing there are five bedrooms in the house, two
sitting-rooms, kitchen, scullery, and the usual domestic offices:--on
Monday she should thoroughly clean the drawing-room; on Tuesday, two of
the bedrooms; on Wednesday, two more; on Thursday, the other bedroom and
stairs; on Friday morning she should sweep the dining-room very
thoroughly, clean the hall, and in the afternoon her kitchen tins and
bright utensils. By arranging her work in this manner, no undue
proportion will fall to Saturday's share, and she will then have this
day for cleaning plate, cleaning her kitchen, and arranging everything
in nice order. The regular work must, of course, be performed in the
usual manner, as we have endeavoured to describe.

2354. Before retiring to bed, she will do well to clean up glasses,
plates, &c. which have been used for the evening meal, and prepare for
her morning's work by placing her wood near the fire, on the hob, to
dry, taking care there is no danger of it igniting, before she leaves
the kitchen for the night. Before retiring, she will have to lock and
bolt the doors, unless the master undertakes this office himself.

2355. If the washing, or even a portion of it, is done at home, it will
be impossible for the maid-of-all-work to do her household duties
thoroughly, during the time it is about, unless she have some
assistance. Usually, if all the washing is done at home, the mistress
hires some one to assist at the wash-tub, and sees to little matters
herself, in the way of dusting, clearing away breakfast things, folding,
starching, and ironing the fine things. With a little management much
can be accomplished, provided the mistress be industrious, energetic,
and willing to lend a helping hand. Let washing-week be not the excuse
for having everything in a muddle; and although "things" cannot be
cleaned so thoroughly, and so much time spent upon them, as ordinarily,
yet the house may be kept tidy and clear from litter without a great
deal of exertion either on the part of the mistress or servant. We will
conclude our remarks with an extract from an admirably-written book,
called "Home Truths for Home Peace." The authoress says, with respect to
the great wash--"Amongst all the occasions in which it is most difficult
and glorious to keep muddle out of a family, 'the great wash' stands
pre-eminent; and as very little money is now saved by having
_everything_ done at home, many ladies, with the option of taking
another servant or putting out the chief part of the washing, have
thankfully adopted the latter course." She goes on to say--"When a
gentleman who dines at home can't bear washing in the house, but gladly
pays for its being done elsewhere, the lady should gratefully submit to
his wishes, and put out anything in her whole establishment rather than
put out a good and generous husband."

2356. A bustling and active girl will always find time to do a little
needlework for herself, if she lives with consistent and reasonable
people. In the summer evenings she should manage to sit down for two or
three hours, and for a short time in the afternoon in leisure days. A
general servant's duties are so multifarious, that unless she be quick
and active, she will not be able to accomplish this. To discharge these
various duties properly is a difficult task, and sometimes a thankless
office; but it must be remembered that a good maid-of-all-work will make
a good servant in any capacity, and may be safely taken not only without
fear of failure, but with every probability of giving satisfaction to
her employer.


DUTIES OF THE DAIRY-MAID.

2357. The duties of the dairy-maid differ considerably in different
districts. In Scotland, Wales, and some of the northern counties, women
milk the cows. On some of the large dairy farms in other parts of
England, she takes her share in the milking, but in private families the
milking is generally performed by the cowkeeper, and the dairy-maid only
receives the milkpails from him morning and night, and empties and
cleans them preparatory to the next milking; her duty being to supply
the family with milk, cream, and butter, and other luxuries depending on
the "milky mothers" of the herd.

    2358. _The Dairy._--The object with which gentlemen keep cows is
    to procure milk unadulterated, and sweet butter, for themselves
    and families: in order to obtain this, however, great
    cleanliness is required, and as visitors, as well as the
    mistress of the house, sometimes visit the dairy, some efforts
    are usually made to render it ornamental and picturesque. The
    locality is usually fixed near to the house; it should neither
    be exposed to the fierce heat of the summer's sun nor to the
    equally unfavourable frosts of winter--it must be both sheltered
    and shaded. If it is a building apart from the house and other
    offices, the walls should be tolerably thick, and if hollow, the
    temperature will be more equable. The walls inside are usually
    covered with Dutch glazed tiles; the flooring also of glazed
    tiles set in asphalte, to resist water; and the ceiling, lath
    and plaster, or closely-jointed woodwork, painted. Its
    architecture will be a matter of fancy: it should have a
    northern aspect, and a thatched roof is considered most
    suitable, from the shade and shelter it affords; and it should
    contain at least two apartments, besides a cool place for
    storing away butter. One of the apartments, in which the milk is
    placed to deposit cream, or to ripen for churning, is usually
    surrounded by shelves of marble or slate, on which the
    milk-dishes rest; but it will be found a better plan to have a
    large square or round table of stone in the centre, with a
    water-tight ledge all round it, in which water may remain in hot
    weather, or, if some attempt at the picturesque is desired, a
    small fountain might occupy the centre, which would keep the
    apartment cool and fresh. Round this table the milk-dishes
    should be ranged; one shelf, or dresser, of slate or marble,
    being kept for the various occupations of the dairy-maid: it
    will be found a better plan than putting them on shelves and
    corners against the wall. There should be a funnel or ventilator
    in the ceiling, communicating with the open air, made to open
    and shut as required. Double windows are recommended, but of the
    lattice kind, so that they may open, and with wire-gauze blinds
    fitted into the opening, and calico blinds, which may be wetted
    when additional coolness is required. The other apartment will
    be used for churning, washing, and scrubbing--in fact, the
    scullery of the dairy, with a boiler for hot water, and a sink
    with cold water laid on, which should be plentiful and good. In
    some dairies a third apartment, or, at least, a cool airy
    pantry, is required for storing away butter, with shelves of
    marble or slate, to hold the cream-jars while it is ripening;
    and where cheeses are made, a fourth becomes necessary. The
    dairy utensils are not numerous,--_churns_, _milk-pails_ for
    each cow, _hair-sieves_, _slices of tin_, milk-pans, marble
    dishes for cream for family use, scales and weights, a portable
    rack for drying the utensils, _wooden bowls_, butter-moulds and
    butter-patters, and _wooden tubs_ for washing the utensils,
    comprising pretty nearly everything.

    2359. _Pails_ are made of maple-wood or elm, and hooped, or of
    tin, more or less ornamented. One is required for each cow.

    2360. The _Hair-Sieve_ is made of closely-twisted horse-hair,
    with a rim, through which the milk is strained to remove any
    hairs which may have dropped from the cow in milking.

    2361. _Milk-Dishes_ are shallow basins of glass, of glazed
    earthenware, or tin, about 16 inches in diameter at top, and 12
    at the bottom, and 5 or 6 inches deep, holding about 8 to 10
    quarts each when full.

    2362. _Churns_ are of all sorts and sizes, from that which
    churns 70 or 80 gallons by means of a strap from the engine, to
    the square box in which a pound of butter is made. The churn
    used for families is a square box, 18 inches by 12 or 13, and 17
    deep, bevelled below to the plane of the _dashers_, with a loose
    lid or cover. The dasher consists of an axis of wood, to which
    the four beaters or fanners are attached; these fans are simply
    four pieces of elm strongly dovetailed together, forming an
    oblong square, with a space left open, two of the openings being
    left broader than the others; attached to an axle, they form an
    axis with four projecting blades; the axle fits into supports at
    the centre of the box; a handle is fitted to it, and the act of
    churning is done by turning the handle.

    2363. Such is the temple in which the dairy-maid presides: it
    should be removed both from stable and cowhouse, and larder; no
    animal smells should come near it, and the drainage should be
    perfect.

2364. The dairy-maid receives the milk from the cowkeeper, each pail
being strained through the hair-sieve into one of the milk-basins. This
is left in the basins from twenty-four to thirty-six hours in the
summer, according to the weather; after which it is skimmed off by means
of the slicer, and poured into glazed earthenware jars to "turn" for
churning. Some persons prefer making up a separate churning for the milk
of each cow; in which there is some advantage. In this case the basins
of each cow, for two days, would either be kept together or labelled. As
soon as emptied, the pails should be scalded and every particle of milk
washed out, and placed away in a dry place till next required; and all
milk spilt on the floor, or on the table or dresser, cleaned up with a
cloth and hot water. Where very great attention is paid to the dairy,
the milk-coolers are used larger in winter, when it is desirable to
retard the cooling down and increase the creamy deposit, and smaller in
summer, to hasten it; the temperature required being from 55° to 50°, In
summer it is sometimes expedient, in very sultry weather, to keep the
dairy fresh and cool by suspending cloths dipped in chloride of lime
across the room.

2365. In some dairies it is usual to churn twice, and in others three
times a week: the former produces the best butter, the other the
greatest quantity. With three cows, the produce should be 27 to 30
quarts a day. The dairy-maid should churn every day when very hot, if
they are in full milk, and every second day in more temperate weather;
besides supplying the milk and cream required for a large establishment.
The churning should always be done in the morning: the dairy-maid will
find it advantageous in being at work on churning mornings by five
o'clock. The operation occupies from 20 minutes to half an hour in
summer, and considerably longer in winter. A steady uniform motion is
necessary to produce sweet butter; neither too quick nor too slow. Rapid
motion causes the cream to heave and swell, from too much air being
forced into it: the result is a tedious churning, and soft, bad-coloured
butter.

2366. In spring and summer, when the cow has her natural food, no
artificial colour is required; but in winter, under stall-feeding, the
colour is white and tallowy, and some persons prefer a higher colour.
This is communicated by mixing a little finely-powdered arnotto with the
cream before putting it into the churn; a still more, natural and
delicate colour is communicated by scraping a red carrot into a clean
piece of linen cloth, dipping it into water, and squeezing it into the
cream.

2367. As soon as the butter comes, the milk is poured off, and the
butter put into a shallow wooden tub or bowl, full of pure spring water,
in which it is washed and kneaded, pouring off the water, and renewing
it until it comes away perfectly free from milk. Imperfect washing is
the frequent cause of bad butter, and in nothing is the skill of the
dairy-maid tested more than in this process; moreover, it is one in
which cleanliness of habits and person are most necessary. In this
operation we want the aid of Phyllis's neat, soft, and perfectly clean
hand; for no mechanical operation can so well squeeze out the sour
particles of milk or curd.

2368. The operations of churning and butter-making over, the butter-milk
is disposed of: usually, in England, it goes to the pigs; but it is a,
very wholesome beverage when fresh, and some persons like it; the
disposal, therefore, will rest with the mistress: the dairy-maid's duty
is to get rid of it. She must then scald with boiling water and scrub
out every utensil she has used; brush out the churn, clean out the
cream-jars, which will probably require the use of a little common soda
to purify; wipe all dry, and place them in a position where the sun can
reach them for a short time, to sweeten them.

    2369. In Devonshire, celebrated for its dairy system, the milk
    is always scalded. The milk-pans, which are of tin, and contain
    from 10 to 12 quarts, after standing 10 or 12 hours, are placed
    on a hot plate of iron, over a stove, until the cream has formed
    on the surface, which is indicated by the air-bubbles rising
    through the milk, and producing blisters on the surface-coating
    of cream. This indicates its approach to the boiling point: and
    the vessel is now removed to cool. When sufficiently, that is,
    quite cool, the cream is skimmed off with the slice: it is now
    the clouted cream for which Devonshire is so famous. It is now
    placed in the churn, and churned until the butter comes, which
    it generally does in a much shorter time than by the other
    process. The butter so made contains more _caseine_ than butter
    made in the usual way, but does not keep so long.

2370. It is a question frequently discussed, how far it is economical
for families to keep cows and make their own butter. It is calculated
that a good cow costs from May 1 to October 1, when well but
economically kept, £5. 16s. 6d; and from October 1 to April 30, £10. 2s.
6d. During that time she should produce 227 lbs. of butter, besides the
skimmed milk. Of course, if new milk and cream are required, that will
diminish the quantity of butter.

2371. Besides churning and keeping her dairy in order, the dairy-maid
has charge of the whole produce, handing it over to the cook, butler, or
housemaid as required; and she will do well to keep an exact account
both of what she receives and how and when she disposes of it.


DUTIES OF THE LAUNDRY-MAID.

2372. The laundry-maid is charged with the duty of washing and
getting-up the family linen,--a situation of great importance where the
washing is all done at home; but in large towns, where there is little
convenience for bleaching and drying, it is chiefly done by professional
laundresses and companies, who apply mechanical and chemical processes
to the purpose. These processes, however, are supposed to injure the
fabric of the linen; and in many families the fine linen, cottons, and
muslins, are washed and got-up at home, even where the bulk of the
washing is given out. In country and suburban houses, where greater
conveniences exist, washing at home is more common,--in country places
universal.

2373. The laundry establishment consists of a washing-house, an ironing
and drying-room, and sometimes a drying-closet heated by furnaces. The
washing-house will probably be attached to the kitchen; but it is better
that it should be completely detached from it, and of one story, with a
funnel or shaft to carry off the steam. It will be of a size
proportioned to the extent of the washing to be done. A range of tubs,
either round or oblong, opposite to, and sloping towards, the light,
narrower at the bottom than the top, for convenience in stooping over,
and fixed at a height suited to the convenience of the women using them;
each tub having a tap for hot and cold water, and another in the bottom,
communicating with the drains, for drawing off foul water. A boiler and
furnace, proportioned in size to the wants of the family, should also be
fixed. The flooring should be York stone, laid on brick piers, with good
drainage, or asphalte, sloping gently towards a gutter connected with
the drain.

2374. Adjoining the bleaching-house, a second room, about the same size,
is required for ironing, drying, and mangling. The contents of this room
should comprise an ironing-board, opposite to the light; a strong white
deal table, about twelve or fourteen feet long, and about three and a
half feet broad, with drawers for ironing-blankets; a mangle in one
corner, and clothes-horses for drying and airing; cupboards for holding
the various irons, starch, and other articles used in ironing; a
hot-plate built in the chimney, with furnace beneath it for heating the
irons; sometimes arranged with a flue for carrying the hot air round the
room for drying. Where this is the case, however, there should be a
funnel in the ceiling for ventilation and carrying off steam; but a
better arrangement is to have a hot-air closet adjoining, heated by
hot-air pipes, and lined with iron, with proper arrangements for
carrying off steam, and clothes-horses on castors running in grooves, to
run into it for drying purposes. This leaves the laundry free from
unwholesome vapour.

2375. The laundry-maid should commence her labours on Monday morning by
a careful examination of the articles committed to her care, and enter
them in the washing-book; separating the white linen and collars, sheets
and body-linen, into one heap, fine muslins into another, coloured
cotton and linen fabrics into a third, woollens into a fourth, and the
coarser kitchen and other greasy cloths into a fifth. Every article
should be examined for ink- or grease-spots, or for fruit- or
wine-stains. Ink-spots are removed by dipping the part into hot water,
and then spreading it smoothly on the hand or on the back of a spoon,
pouring a few drops of oxalic acid or salts of sorel over the ink-spot,
rubbing and rinsing it in cold water till removed; grease-spots, by
rubbing over with yellow soap, and rinsing in hot water; fruit- and
wine-spots, by dipping in a solution of sal ammonia or spirits of wine,
and rinsing.

2376. Every article having been examined and assorted, the sheets and
fine linen should be placed in one of the tubs and just covered with
lukewarm water, in which a little soda has been dissolved and mixed, and
left there to soak till the morning. The greasy cloths and dirtier
things should be laid to soak in another tub, in a liquor composed of
1/2 lb. of unslaked lime to every 6 quarts of water which has been
boiled for two hours, then left to settle, and strained off when clear.
Each article should be rinsed in this liquor to wet it thoroughly, and
left to soak till the morning, just covered by it when the things are
pressed together. Coppers and boilers should now be filled, and the
fires laid ready to light.

2377. Early on the following morning the fires should be lighted, and as
soon as hot water can be procured, washing commenced; the sheets and
body-linen being wanted to whiten in the morning, should be taken first;
each article being removed in succession from the lye in which it has
been soaking, rinsed, rubbed, and wrung, and laid aside until the tub is
empty, when the foul water is drawn off. The tub should be again filled
with luke-warm water, about 80°, in which the articles should again be
plunged, and each gone over carefully with soap, and rubbed. Novices in
the art sometimes rub the linen against the skin; more experienced
washerwomen rub one linen surface against the other, which saves their
hands, and enables them to continue their labour much longer, besides
economizing time, two parts being thus cleaned at once.

2378. After this first washing, the linen should be put into a second
water as hot as the hand can bear, and again rubbed over in every part,
examining every part for spots not yet moved, which require to be again
soaped over and rubbed till thoroughly clean; then rinsed and wrung, the
larger and stronger articles by two of the women; the smaller and more
delicate articles requiring gentler treatment.

2379. In order to remove every particle of soap, and produce a good
colour, they should now be placed, and boiled for about an hour and a
half in the copper, in which soda, in the proportion of a teaspoonful to
every two gallons of water, has been dissolved. Some very careful
laundresses put the linen into a canvas bag to protect it from the scum
and the sides of the copper. When taken out, it should again be rinsed,
first in clean hot water, and then in abundance of cold water slightly
tinged with fig-blue, and again wrung dry. It should now be removed from
the washing-house and hung up to dry or spread out to bleach, if there
are conveniences for it; and the earlier in the day this is done, the
clearer and whiter will be the linen.

2380. Coloured muslins, cottons, and linens, require a milder treatment;
any application of soda will discharge the colour, and soaking all
night, even in pure water, deteriorates the more delicate tints. When
ready for washing, if not too dirty, they should be put into cold water
and washed very speedily, using the common yellow soap, which should be
rinsed off immediately. One article should be washed at a time, and
rinsed out immediately before any others are wetted. When washed
thoroughly, they should be rinsed in succession in soft water, in which
common salt has been dissolved, in the proportion of a handful to three
or four gallons, and afterwards wrung gently, as soon as rinsed, with as
little twisting as possible, and then hung out to dry. Delicate-coloured
articles should not be exposed to the sun, but dried in the shade, using
clean lines and wooden pegs.

2381. Woollen articles are liable to shrink, unless the flannel has been
well shrunk before making up. This liability is increased where very hot
water is used: cold water would thus be the best to wash woollens in;
but, as this would not remove the dirt, lukewarm water, about 85°, and
yellow soap, are recommended. When thoroughly washed in this, they
require a good deal of rinsing in cold water, to remove the soap.

2382. Greasy cloths, which have soaked all night in the liquid
described, should be now washed out with soap-and-water as hot as the
hands can bear, first in one water, and rinsed out in a second; and
afterwards boiled for two hours in water in which a little soda is
dissolved. When taken out, they should be rinsed in cold water, and laid
out or hung up to dry.

2383. Silk handkerchiefs require to be washed alone. When they contain
snuff, they should be soaked by themselves in lukewarm water two or
three hours; they should be rinsed out and put to soak with the others
in cold water for an hour or two; then washed in lukewarm water, being
soaped as they are washed. If this does not remove all stains, they
should be washed a second time in similar water, and, when finished,
rinsed in soft water in which a handful of common salt has been
dissolved. In washing stuff or woollen dresses, the band at the waist
and the lining at the bottom should be removed, and wherever it is
gathered into folds; and, in furniture, the hems and gatherings. A black
silk dress, if very dirty, must be washed; but, if only soiled, soaking
for four-and-twenty hours will do; if old and rusty, a pint of common
spirits should be mixed with each gallon of water, which is an
improvement under any circumstances. Whether soaked or washed, it should
be hung up to drain, and dried without wringing.

2384. Satin and silk ribbons, both white and coloured, may be cleaned in
the same manner.

2385. Silks, when washed, should be dried in the shade, on a
linen-horse, taking care that they are kept smooth and unwrinkled. If
black or blue, they will be improved if laid again on the table, when
dry, and sponged with gin, or whiskey, or other white spirit.

2386. The operations should be concluded by rinsing the tubs, cleaning
the coppers, scrubbing the floors of the washing-house, and restoring
everything to order and cleanliness.

2387. Thursday and Friday, in a laundry in full employ, are usually
devoted to mangling, starching, and ironing.

2388. Linen, cotton, and other fabrics, after being washed and dried,
are made smooth and glossy by mangling and by ironing. The mangling
process, which is simply passing them between rollers subjected to a
very considerable pressure, produced by weight, is confined to sheets,
towels, table-linen, and similar articles, which are without folds or
plaits. Ironing is necessary to smooth body-linen, and made-up articles
of delicate texture or gathered into folds. The mangle is too well known
to need description.

    2389. _Ironing_.--The irons consist of the common flat-iron,
    which is of different sizes, varying from 4 to 10 inches in
    length, triangular in form, and from 2-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches in
    width at the broad end; the oval iron, which is used for more
    delicate articles; and the box-iron, which is hollow, and heated
    by a red-hot iron inserted into the box. The Italian iron is a
    hollow tube, smooth on the outside, and raised on a slender
    pedestal with a footstalk. Into the hollow cylinder a red-hot
    iron is pushed, which heats it; and the smooth outside of the
    latter is used, on which articles such as frills, and plaited
    articles, are drawn. Crimping- and gauffering-machines are used
    for a kind of plaiting where much regularity is required, the
    articles being passed through two iron rollers fluted so as to
    represent the kind of plait or fold required.

2390. Starching is a process by which stiffness is communicated to
certain parts of linen, as the collar and front of shirts, by dipping
them in a paste made of starch boiled in water, mixed with a little gum
Arabic, where extra stiffness is required.


TO MAKE STARCH.

2391. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 1/2 pint of cold water and 1 quart of boiling
water to every 2 tablespoonfuls of starch.

_Mode_.--Put the starch into a tolerably large basin; pour over it the
cold water, and stir the mixture well with a wooden spoon until it is
perfectly free from lumps, and quite smooth. Then take the basin to the
fire, and whilst the water is _actually boiling_ in the kettle or
boiler, pour it over the starch, stirring it the whole time. If made
properly in this manner, the starch will require no further boiling; but
should the water not be boiling when added to the starch, it will not
thicken, and must be put into a clean saucepan, and stirred over the
fire until it boils. Take it off the fire, strain it into a clean basin,
cover it up to prevent a skin forming on the top, and, when sufficiently
cool that the hand may be borne in it, starch the things. Many persons,
to give a shiny and smooth appearance to the linen when ironed, stir
round two or three times in the starch a piece of wax candle, which also
prevents the iron from sticking.

2392. When the "things to be starched" are washed, dried, and taken off
the lines, they should be dipped into the hot starch made as directed,
squeezed out of it, and then just dipped into cold water, and
immediately squeezed dry. If fine things be wrung, or roughly used, they
are very liable to tear; so too much care cannot be exercised in this
respect. If the article is lace, clap it between the hands a few times,
which will assist to clear it; then have ready laid out on the table a
large clean towel or cloth; shake out the starched things, lay them on
the cloth, and roll it up tightly, and let it remain for three or fours,
when the things will be ready to iron.

2393. To be able to iron properly requires much practice and experience.
Strict cleanliness with all the ironing utensils must be observed, as,
if this is not the case, not the most expert ironer will be able to make
her things look clear and free from smears, &c. After wiping down her
ironing table, the laundry-maid should place a coarse cloth on it, and
over that the ironing-blanket, with her stand and iron-rubber; and
having ascertained that her irons are quite clean and of the right heat,
she proceeds with her work.

2394. It is a good plan to try the heat of the iron on a coarse cloth or
apron before ironing anything fine: there is then no danger of
scorching. For ironing fine things, such as collars, cuffs, muslins, and
laces, there is nothing so clean and nice to use as the box-iron; the
bottom being bright, and never placed near the fire, it is always
perfectly clean; it should, however, be kept in a dry place, for fear of
its rusting. Gauffering-tongs or irons must be placed in a clear fire
for a minute, then withdrawn, wiped with a coarse rubber, and the heat
of them tried on a piece of paper, as, unless great care is taken, these
will very soon scorch.

2395. The skirts of muslin dresses should be ironed on a skirt-board
covered with flannel, and the fronts of shirts on a smaller board, also
covered with flannel; this board being placed between the back and
front.

2396. After things are mangled, they should also be ironed in the folds
and gathers; dinner-napkins smoothed over, as also table-cloths,
pillow-cases, and sometimes sheets. The bands of flannel petticoats, and
shoulder-straps to flannel waistcoats, must also undergo the same
process.


UPPER AND UNDER NURSEMAIDS.

2397. The nursery is of great importance in every family, and in
families of distinction, where there are several young children, it is
an establishment kept apart from the rest of the family, under the
charge of an upper nurse, assisted by under nursery-maids proportioned
to the work to be done. The responsible duties of upper nursemaid
commence with the weaning of the child: it must now be separated from
the mother or wet-nurse, at least for a time, and the cares of the
nursemaid, which have hitherto been only occasionally put in
requisition, are now to be entirely devoted to the infant. She washes,
dresses, and feeds it; walks out with it, and regulates all its little
wants; and, even at this early age, many good qualities are required to
do so in a satisfactory manner. Patience and good temper are
indispensable qualities; truthfulness, purity of manners, minute
cleanliness, and docility and obedience, almost equally so. She ought
also to be acquainted with the art of ironing and trimming little caps,
and be handy with her needle.

    2398. There is a considerable art in carrying an infant
    comfortably for itself and for the nursemaid. If she carry it
    always seated upright on her arm, and presses it too closely
    against her chest, the stomach of the child is apt to get
    compressed, and the back fatigued. For her own comfort, a good
    nurse will frequently vary this position, by changing from one
    arm to the other, and sometimes by laying it across both,
    raising the head a little. When teaching it to walk, and guiding
    it by the hand, she should change the hand from time to time, so
    as to avoid raising one shoulder higher than the other. This is
    the only way in which a child should be taught to walk;
    leading-strings and other foolish inventions, which force an
    infant to make efforts, with its shoulders and head forward,
    before it knows how to use its limbs, will only render it
    feeble, and retard its progress.

    2399. Most children have some bad habit, of which they must be
    broken; but this is never accomplished by harshness without
    developing worse evils: kindness, perseverance, and patience in
    the nurse, are here of the utmost importance. When
    finger-sucking is one of these habits, the fingers are sometimes
    rubbed with bitter aloes, or some equally disagreeable
    substance. Others have dirty habits, which are only to be
    changed by patience, perseverance, and, above all, by regularity
    in the nurse. She should never be permitted to inflict
    punishment on these occasions, or, indeed, on any occasion. But,
    if punishment is to be avoided, it is still more necessary that
    all kinds of indulgences and flattery be equally forbidden.
    Yielding to all the whims of a child,--picking up its toys when
    thrown away in mere wantonness, would be intolerable. A child
    should never be led to think others inferior to it, to beat a
    dog, or even the stone against which it falls, as some children
    are taught to do by silly nurses. Neither should the nurse
    affect or show alarm at any of the little accidents which must
    inevitably happen: if it falls, treat it as a trifle; otherwise
    she encourages a spirit of cowardice and timidity. But she will
    take care that such accidents are not of frequent occurrence, or
    the result of neglect.

    2400. The nurse should keep the child as clean as possible, and
    particularly she should train it to habits of cleanliness, so
    that it should feel uncomfortable when otherwise; watching
    especially that it does not soil itself in eating. At the same
    time, vanity in its personal appearance is not to be encouraged
    by over-care in this respect, or by too tight lacing or
    buttoning of dresses, nor a small foot cultivated by the use of
    tight shoes.

    2401. Nursemaids would do well to repeat to the parents
    faithfully and truly the defects they observe in the
    dispositions of very young children. If properly checked in
    time, evil propensities may be eradicated; but this should not
    extend to anything but serious defects; otherwise, the intuitive
    perceptions which all children possess will construe the act
    into "spying" and "informing," which should never be resorted to
    in the case of children, nor, indeed, in any case.

2402. Such are the cares which devolve upon the nursemaid, and it is her
duty to fulfil them personally. In large establishments she will have
assistants proportioned to the number of children of which she has the
care. The under nursemaid lights the fires, sweeps, scours, and dusts
the rooms, and makes the beds; empties slops, and carries up water;
brings up and removes the nursery meals; washes and dresses all the
children, except the infant, and assists in mending. Where there is a
nursery girl to assist, she does the rougher part of the cleaning; and
all take their meals in the nursery together, after the children of the
family have done.

2403. In smaller families, where there is only one nursemaid kept, she
is assisted by the housemaid, or servant-of-all-work, who will do the
rougher part of the work, and carry up the nursery meals. In such
circumstances she will be more immediately under the eye of her
mistress, who will probably relieve her from some of the cares of the
infant. In higher families, the upper nurse is usually permitted to sup
or dine occasionally at the housekeeper's table by way of relaxation,
when the children are all well, and her subordinates trustworthy.

2404. Where the nurse has the entire charge of the nursery, and the
mother is too much occupied to do more than pay a daily visit to it, it
is desirable that she be a person of observation, and possess some
acquaintance with the diseases incident to childhood, as also with such
simple remedies as may be useful before a medical attendant can be
procured, or where such attendance is not considered necessary. All
these little ailments are preceded by symptoms so minute as to be only
perceptible to close observation; such as twitching of the brows,
restless sleep, grinding the gums, and, in some inflammatory diseases,
even to the child abstaining from crying, from fear of the increased
pain produced by the movement. Dentition, or cutting the teeth, is
attended with many of these symptoms. Measles, thrush, scarlatina,
croup, hooping-cough, and other childish complaints, are all preceded by
well-known symptoms, which may be alleviated and rendered less virulent
by simple remedies instantaneously applied.

2405. _Dentition_ is usually the first serious trouble, bringing many
other disorders in its train. The symptoms are most perceptible to the
mother: the child sucks feebly, and with gums hot, inflamed, and
swollen. In this case, relief is yielded by rubbing them from time to
time with a little of Mrs. Johnson's soothing syrup, a valuable and
perfectly safe medicine. Selfish and thoughtless nurses, and mothers
too, sometimes give cordials and sleeping-draughts, whose effects are
too well known.

2406. _Convulsion Fits_ sometimes follow the feverish restlessness
produced by these causes; in which case a hot bath should be
administered without delay, and the lower parts of the body rubbed, the
bath being as hot as it can be without scalding the tender skin; at the
same time, the doctor should be sent for immediately, for no nurse
should administer medicine in this case, unless the fits have been
repeated and the doctor has left directions with her how to act.

2407. _Croup_ is one of the most alarming diseases of childhood; it is
accompanied with a hoarse, croaking, ringing cough, and comes on very
suddenly, and most so in strong, robust children. A very hot bath should
be instantly administered, followed by an emetic, either in the form of
tartar-emetic, croup-powder, or a teaspoonful of ipecacuanha, wrapping
the body warmly up in flannel after the bath. The slightest delay in
administering the bath, or the emetic, may be fatal; hence, the
importance of nurses about very young children being acquainted with the
symptoms.

2408. _Hooping-Cough_ is generally preceded by the moaning noise during
sleep, which even adults threatened with the disorder cannot avoid: it
is followed by violent fits of coughing, which little can be done to
relieve. A child attacked by this disorder should be kept as much as
possible in the fresh, pure air, but out of draughts, and kept warm, and
supplied with plenty of nourishing food. Many fatal diseases flow from
this scourge of childhood, and a change to purer air, if possible,
should follow convalescence.

2409. _Worms_ are the torment of some children: the symptoms are, an
unnatural craving for food, even after a full meal; costiveness,
suddenly followed by the reverse; fetid breath, a livid circle under the
eyes, enlarged abdomen, and picking the nose; for which the remedies
must be prescribed by the doctor.

2410. _Measles_ and _Scarlatina_ much resemble each other in their early
stages: headache, restlessness, and fretfulness are the symptoms of
both. Shivering fits, succeeded by a hot skin; pains in the back and
limbs, accompanied by sickness, and, in severe cases, sore throat; pain
about the jaws, difficulty in swallowing, running at the eyes, which
become red and inflamed, while the face is hot and flushed, often
distinguish scarlatina and scarlet fever, of which it is only a mild
form.

2411. While the case is doubtful, a dessert-spoonful of spirit of nitre
diluted in water, given at bedtime, will throw the child into a gentle
perspiration, and will bring out the rash in either case. In measles,
this appears first on the face; in scarlatina, on the chest; and in both
cases a doctor should be called in. In scarlatina, tartar-emetic powder
or ipecacuanha may be administered in the mean time.

2412. In all cases, cleanliness, fresh air, clean utensils, and frequent
washing of the person, both of nurse and children, are even more
necessary in the nursery than in either drawing-room or sick-room,
inasmuch as the delicate organs of childhood are more susceptible of
injury from smells and vapours than adults.

2413. It may not be out of place if we conclude this brief notice of the
duties of a nursemaid, by an extract from Florence Nightingale's
admirable "Notes on Nursing." Referring to children, she says:--

    2414. "They are much more susceptible than grown people to all
    noxious influences. They are affected by the same things, but
    much more quickly and seriously; by want of fresh air, of proper
    warmth; want of cleanliness in house, clothes, bedding, or body;
    by improper food, want of punctuality, by dulness, by want of
    light, by too much or too little covering in bed or when up."
    And all this in health; and then she quotes a passage from a
    lecture on sudden deaths in infancy, to show the importance of
    careful nursing of children:--"In the great majority of
    instances, when death suddenly befalls the infant or young
    child, it is an _accident_; it is not a necessary, inevitable
    result of any disease. That which is known to injure children
    most seriously is foul air; keeping the rooms where they sleep
    closely shut up is destruction to them; and, if the child's
    breathing be disordered by disease, a few hours only of such
    foul air may endanger its life, even where no inconvenience is
    felt by grown-up persons in the room."

    2415. Persons moving in the beat society will see, after
    perusing Miss Nightingale's book, that this "foul air," "want of
    light," "too much or too little clothing," and improper food, is
    not confined to Crown Street or St. Giles's; that Belgravia and
    the squares have their north room, where the rays of the sun
    never reach. "A wooden bedstead, two or three mattresses piled
    up to above the height of the table, a vallance attached to the
    frame,--nothing but a miracle could ever thoroughly dry or air
    such a bed and bedding,"--is the ordinary bed of a private
    house, than which nothing can be more unwholesome. "Don't treat
    your children like sick," she sums up; "don't dose them with
    tea. Let them eat meat and drink milk, or half a glass of light
    beer. Give them fresh, light, sunny, and open rooms, cool
    bedrooms, plenty of outdoor exercise, facing even the cold, and
    wind, and weather, in sufficiently warm clothes, and with
    sufficient exercise, plenty of amusements and play; more
    liberty, and less schooling, and cramming, and training; more
    attention to food and less to physic."


DUTIES OF THE SICK-NURSE.

2416. All women are likely, at some period of their lives, to be called
on to perform the duties of a sick-nurse, and should prepare themselves
as much as possible, by observation and reading, for the occasion when
they may be required to perform the office. The main requirements are
good temper, compassion for suffering, sympathy with sufferers, which
most women worthy of the name possess, neat-handedness, quiet manners,
love of order, and cleanliness. With these qualifications there will be
very little to be wished for; the desire to relieve suffering will
inspire a thousand little attentions, and surmount the disgusts which
some of the offices attending the sick-room are apt to create. Where
serious illness visits a household, and protracted nursing is likely to
become necessary, a professional nurse will probably be engaged, who has
been trained to its duties; but in some families, and those not a few
let us hope, the ladies of the family would oppose such an arrangement
as a failure of duty on their part. There is, besides, even when a
professional nurse is ultimately called in, a period of doubt and
hesitation, while disease has not yet developed itself, when the patient
must be attended to; and, in these cases, some of the female servants of
the establishment must give their attendance in the sick-room. There
are, also, slight attacks of cold, influenza, and accidents in a
thousand forms, to which all are subject, where domestic nursing becomes
a necessity; where disease, though unattended with danger, is
nevertheless accompanied by the nervous irritation incident to illness,
and when all the attention of the domestic nurse becomes necessary.

2417. In the first stage of sickness, while doubt and a little
perplexity hang over the household as to the nature of the sickness,
there are some things about which no doubt can exist: the patient's room
must be kept in a perfectly pure state, and arrangements made for proper
attendance; for the first canon of nursing, according to Florence
Nightingale, its apostle, is to "keep the air the patient breathes as
pure as the external air, without chilling him." This can be done
without any preparation which might alarm the patient; with proper
windows, open fireplaces, and a supply of fuel, the room may be as fresh
as it is outside, and kept at a temperature suitable for the patient's
state.

2418. Windows, however, must be opened from above, and not from below,
and draughts avoided; cool air admitted beneath the patient's head
chills the lower strata and the floor. The careful nurse will keep the
door shut when the window is open; she will also take care that the
patient is not placed between the door and the open window, nor between
the open fireplace and the window. If confined to bed, she will see that
the bed is placed in a thoroughly ventilated part of the room, but out
of the current of air which is produced by the momentary opening of
doors, as well as out of the line of draught between the window and the
open chimney, and that the temperature of the room is kept about 64°.
Where it is necessary to admit air by the door, the windows should be
closed; but there are few circumstances in which good air can be
obtained through the chamber-door; through it, on the contrary, the
gases generated in the lower parts of the house are likely to be drawn
into the invalid chamber.

2419. These precautions taken, and plain nourishing diet, such as the
patient desires, furnished, probably little more can be done, unless
more serious symptoms present themselves; in which case medical advice
will be sought.

2420. Under no circumstances is ventilation of the sick-room so
essential as in cases of febrile diseases, usually considered
infectious; such as typhus and puerperal fevers, influenza,
hooping-cough, small- and chicken-pox, scarlet fever, measles, and
erysipelas: all these are considered communicable through the air; but
there is little danger of infection being thus communicated, provided
the room is kept thoroughly ventilated. On the contrary, if this
essential be neglected, the power of infection is greatly increased and
concentrated in the confined and impure air; it settles upon the clothes
of the attendants and visitors, especially where they are of wool, and
is frequently communicated to other families in this manner.

2421. Under all circumstances, therefore, the sick-room should be kept
as fresh and sweet as the open air, while the temperature is kept up by
artificial heat, taking care that the fire burns clear, and gives out no
smoke into the room; that the room is perfectly clean, wiped over with a
damp cloth every day, if boarded; and swept, after sprinkling with damp
tea-leaves, or other aromatic leaves, if carpeted; that all utensils are
emptied and cleaned as soon as used, and not once in four-and-twenty
hours, as is sometimes done. "A slop-pail," Miss Nightingale says,
"should never enter a sick-room; everything should be carried direct to
the water-closet, emptied there, and brought up clean; in the best
hospitals the slop-pail is unknown." "I do not approve," says Miss
Nightingale, "of making housemaids of nurses,--that would be waste of
means; but I have seen surgical sisters, women whose hands were worth to
them two or three guineas a week, down on their knees, scouring a room
or hut, because they thought it was not fit for their patients: these
women had the true nurse spirit."

2422. Bad smells are sometimes met by sprinkling a little liquid
chloride of lime on the floor; fumigation by burning pastiles is also a
common expedient for the purification of the sick-room. They are useful,
but only in the sense hinted at by the medical lecturer, who commenced
his lecture thus:--"Fumigations, gentlemen, are of essential importance;
they make so abominable a smell, that they compel you to open the
windows and admit fresh air." In this sense they are useful, but
ineffectual unless the cause be removed, and fresh air admitted.

2423. The sick-room should be quiet; no talking, no gossiping, and,
above all, no whispering,--this is absolute cruelty to the patient; he
thinks his complaint the subject, and strains his ear painfully to catch
the sound. No rustling of dresses, nor creaking shoes either; where the
carpets are taken up, the nurse should wear list shoes, or some other
noiseless material, and her dress should be of soft material that does
not rustle. Miss Nightingale denounces crinoline, and quotes Lord
Melbourne on the subject of women in the sick-room, who said, "I would
rather have men about me, when ill, than women; it requires very strong
health to put up with women." Ungrateful man! but absolute quiet is
necessary in the sick-room.

2424. Never let the patient be waked out of his first sleep by noise,
never roused by anything like a surprise. Always sit in the apartment,
so that the patient has you in view, and that it is not necessary for
him to turn in speaking to you. Never keep a patient standing; never
speak to one while moving. Never lean on the sick-bed. Above all, be
calm and decisive with the patient, and prevent all noises over-head.

2425. A careful nurse, when a patient leaves his bed, will open the
sheets wide, and throw the clothes back so as thoroughly to air the bed;
She will avoid drying or airing anything damp in the sick-room.

2426. "It is another fallacy," says Florence Nightingale, "to suppose
that night air is injurious; a great authority told me that, in London,
the air is never so good as after ten o'clock, when smoke has
diminished; but then it must be air from without, not within, and not
air vitiated by gaseous airs." "A great fallacy prevails also," she
says, in another section, "about flowers poisoning the air of the
sick-room: no one ever saw them over-crowding the sick-room; but, if
they did, they actually absorb carbonic acid and give off oxygen." Cut
flowers also decompose water, and produce oxygen gas. Lilies, and some
other very odorous plants, may perhaps give out smells unsuited to a
close room, while the atmosphere of the sick-room should always be fresh
and natural.

2427. "Patients," says Miss Nightingale, "are sometimes starved in the
midst of plenty, from want of attention to the ways which alone make it
possible for them to take food. A spoonful of beef-tea, or arrowroot and
wine, or some other light nourishing diet, should be given every hour,
for the patient's stomach will reject large supplies. In very weak
patients there is often a nervous difficulty in swallowing, which is
much increased if food is not ready and presented at the moment when it
is wanted: the nurse should be able to discriminate, and know when this
moment is approaching."

2428. Diet suitable for patients will depend, in some degree, on their
natural likes and dislikes, which the nurse will do well to acquaint
herself with. Beef-tea is useful and relishing, but possesses little
nourishment; when evaporated, it presents a teaspoonful of solid meat to
a pint of water. Eggs are not equivalent to the same weight of meat.
Arrowroot is less nourishing than flour. Butter is the lightest and most
digestible kind of fat. Cream, in some diseases, cannot be replaced.
But, to sum up with some of Miss Nightingale's useful maxims:--Observation
is the nurse's best guide, and the patient's appetite the rule. Half a
pint of milk is equal to a quarter of a pound of meat. Beef-tea is the
least nourishing food administered to the sick; and tea and coffee, she
thinks, are both too much excluded from the sick-room.


THE MONTHLY NURSE.

2429. The choice of a monthly nurse is of the utmost importance; and in
the case of a young mother with her first child, it would be well for
her to seek advice and counsel from her more experienced relatives in
this matter. In the first place, the engaging a monthly nurse in good
time is of the utmost importance, as, if she be competent and clever,
her services will be sought months beforehand; a good nurse having
seldom much of her time disengaged. There are some qualifications which
it is evident the nurse should possess: she should be scrupulously clean
and tidy in her person; honest, sober, and noiseless in her movements;
should possess a natural love for children, and have a strong nerve in
case of emergencies. Snuff-taking and spirit-drinking must not be
included in her habits; but these are happily much less frequent than
they were in former days.

2430. Receiving, as she often will, instructions from the doctor, she
should bear these in mind, and carefully carry them out. In those
instances where she does not feel herself sufficiently informed, she
should ask advice from the medical man, and not take upon herself to
administer medicines, &c., without his knowledge.

2431. A monthly nurse should be between 30 and 50 years of age,
sufficiently old to have had a little experience, and yet not too old or
infirm to be able to perform various duties requiring strength and
bodily vigour. She should be able to wake the moment she is called,--at
any hour of the night, that the mother or child may have their wants
immediately attended to. Good temper, united to a kind and gentle
disposition, is indispensable; and, although the nurse will frequently
have much to endure from the whims and caprices of the invalid, she
should make allowances for these, and command her temper, at the same
time exerting her authority when it is necessary.

2432. What the nurse has to do in the way of cleaning and dusting her
lady's room, depends entirely on the establishment that is kept. Where
there are plenty of servants, the nurse, of course, has nothing whatever
to do but attend on her patient, and ring the bell for anything she may
require. Where the number of domestics is limited, she should not mind
keeping her room in order; that is to say, sweeping and dusting it every
morning. If fires be necessary, the housemaid should always clean the
grate, and do all that is wanted in that way, as this, being rather
dirty work, would soil the nurse's dress, and unfit her to approach the
bed, or take the infant without soiling its clothes. In small
establishments, too, the nurse should herself fetch things she may
require, and not ring every time she wants anything; and she must, of
course, not leave her invalid unless she sees everything is comfortable;
and then only for a few minutes. When down stairs, and in company with
the other servants, the nurse should not repeat what she may have heard
in her lady's room, as much mischief may be done by a gossiping nurse.
As in most houses the monthly nurse is usually sent for a few days
before her services may be required, she should see that all is in
readiness; that there be no bustle and hurry at the time the confinement
takes place. She should keep two pairs of sheets thoroughly aired, as
well as night-dresses, flannels, &c. &c. All the things which will be
required to dress the baby the first time should be laid in the basket
in readiness, in the order in which they are to be put on; as well as
scissors, thread, a few pieces of soft linen rag, and two or three
flannel squares. If a berceaunette is to be used immediately, the nurse
should ascertain that the mattresses, pillow, &c. are all well aired;
and if not already done before she arrives, she should assist in
covering and trimming it, ready for the little occupant. A monthly nurse
should be handy at her needle, as, if she is in the house some time
before the baby is born, she will require some work of this sort; to
occupy her time. She should also understand the making-up of little
caps, although we can scarcely say this is one of the nurse's duties. As
most children wear no caps, except out of doors, her powers in this way
will not be much taxed.

2433. A nurse should endeavour to make her room as cheerful as possible,
and always keep it clean and tidy. She should empty the chamber utensils
as soon as used, and on no account put things under the bed. Soiled
baby's napkins should be rolled up and put into a pan, when they should
be washed out every morning, and hung out to dry: they are then in a fit
state to send to the laundress; and should, on no account, be left
dirty, but done every morning in this way. The bedroom should be kept
rather dark, particularly for the first week or ten days; of a regular
temperature, and as free as possible from draughts, at the same time
well ventilated and free from unpleasant smells.

2434. The infant during the month must not be exposed to strong light,
or much air; and in carrying it about the passages, stairs, &c., the
nurse should always have its head-flannel on, to protect the eyes and
ears from the currents of air. For the management of children, we must
refer our readers to the following chapters; and we need only say, in
conclusion, that a good nurse should understand the symptoms of various
ills incident to this period, as, in all cases, prevention is better
than cure. As young mothers with their first baby are very often much
troubled at first with their breasts, the nurse should understand the
art of emptying them by suction, or some other contrivance. If the
breasts are kept well drawn, there will be but little danger of
inflammation; and as the infant at first cannot take all that is
necessary, something must be done to keep the inflammation down. This is
one of the greatest difficulties a nurse has to contend with, and we can
only advise her to be very persevering, to rub the breasts well, and to
let the infant suck as soon and as often as possible, until they get in
proper order.


THE WET-NURSE.

2435. We are aware that, according to the opinion of some ladies, there
is no domestic theme, during a certain period of their married lives,
more fraught with vexation and disquietude than that ever-fruitful
source of annoyance, "the Nurse;" but, as we believe, there are
thousands of excellent wives and mothers who pass through life without
even a temporary embroglio in the kitchen, or suffering a state of moral
hectic the whole time of a nurse's empire in the nursery or bedroom. Our
own experience goes to prove, that although many unqualified persons
palm themselves off on ladies as fully competent for the duties they so
rashly and dishonestly undertake to perform, and thus expose themselves
to ill-will and merited censure, there are still very many fully equal
to the legitimate exercise of what they undertake; and if they do not in
every case give entire satisfaction, some of the fault,--and sometimes a
great deal of it,--may be honestly placed to the account of the ladies
themselves, who, in many instances, are so impressed with the propriety
of their own method of performing everything, as to insist upon the
adoption of _their_ system in preference to that of the nurse, whose
plan is probably based on a comprehensive forethought, and rendered
perfect in all its details by an ample experience.

2436. In all our remarks on this subject, we should remember with
gentleness the order of society from which our nurses are drawn; and
that those who make their duty a study, and are termed professional
nurses, have much to endure from the caprice and egotism of their
employers; while others are driven to the occupation from the laudable
motive of feeding their own children, and who, in fulfilling that
object, are too often both selfish and sensual, performing, without
further interest than is consistent with their own advantage, the
routine of customary duties.

2437. Properly speaking, there are two nurses,--the nurse for the mother
and the nurse for the child, or, the monthly and the wet nurse. Of the
former we have already spoken, and will now proceed to describe the
duties of the latter, and add some suggestions as to her age, physical
health, and moral conduct, subjects of the utmost importance as far as
the charge intrusted to her is concerned, and therefore demanding some
special remarks.

2438. When from illness, suppression of the milk, accident, or some
natural process, the mother is deprived of the pleasure of rearing her
infant, it becomes necessary at once to look around for a fitting
substitute, so that the child may not suffer, by any needless delay, a
physical loss by the deprivation of its natural food. The first
consideration should be as regards age, state of health, and temper.

2439. The age, if possible, should not be less than twenty nor exceed
thirty years, with the health sound in every respect, and the body free
from all eruptive disease or local blemish. The best evidence of a sound
state of health will be found in the woman's clear open countenance, the
ruddy tone of the skin, the full, round, and elastic state of the
breasts, and especially in the erectile, firm condition of the nipple,
which, in all unhealthy states of the body, is pendulous, flabby, and
relaxed; in which case, the milk is sure to be imperfect in its
organization, and, consequently, deficient in its nutrient qualities.
Appetite is another indication of health in the suckling nurse or
mother; for it is impossible a woman can feed her child without having a
corresponding appetite; and though inordinate craving for food is
neither desirable nor necessary, a natural vigour should be experienced
at meal-times, and the food taken should be anticipated and enjoyed.

2440. Besides her health, the moral state of the nurse is to be taken
into account, or that mental discipline or principle of conduct which
would deter the nurse from at any time gratifying her own pleasures and
appetites at the cost or suffering of her infant charge.

2441. The conscientiousness and good faith that would prevent a nurse so
acting are, unfortunately, very rare; and many nurses, rather than
forego the enjoyment of a favourite dish, though morally certain of the
effect it will have on the child, will, on the first opportunity, feed
with avidity on fried meats, cabbage, cucumbers, pickles, or other crude
and injurious aliments, in defiance of all orders given, or confidence
reposed in their word, good sense, and humanity. And when the infant is
afterwards racked with pain, and a night of disquiet alarms the mother,
the doctor is sent for, and the nurse, covering her dereliction by a
falsehood, the consequence of her gluttony is treated as a disease, and
the poor infant is dosed for some days with medicines, that can do it
but little if any good, and, in all probability, materially retard its
physical development. The selfish nurse, in her ignorance, believes,
too, that as long as she experiences no admonitory symptoms herself, the
child cannot suffer; and satisfied that, whatever is the cause of its
screams and plunges, neither she, nor what she had eaten, had anything
to do with it, with this flattering assurance at her heart, she watches
her opportunity, and has another luxurious feast off the proscribed
dainties, till the increasing disturbance in the child's health, or
treachery from the kitchen, opens the eyes of mother and doctor to the
nurse's unprincipled conduct. In all such cases the infant should be
spared the infliction of medicine, and, as a wholesome corrective to
herself, and relief to her charge, a good sound dose administered to the
nurse.

2442. Respecting the diet of the wet-nurse, the first point of
importance is to fix early and definite hours for every meal; and the
mother should see that no cause is ever allowed to interfere with their
punctuality. The food itself should be light, easy of digestion, and
simple. Boiled or roast meat, with bread and potatoes, with occasionally
a piece of sago, rice, or tapioca pudding, should constitute the dinner,
the only meal that requires special comment; broths, green vegetables,
and all acid or salt foods, must be avoided. Fresh fish, once or twice a
week, may be taken; but it is hardly sufficiently nutritious to be often
used as a meal. If the dinner is taken early,--at one o'clock,--there
will be no occasion for luncheon, which too often, to the injury of the
child, is made the cover for a first dinner. Half a pint of stout, with
a Reading biscuit, at eleven o'clock, will be abundantly sufficient
between breakfast at eight and a good dinner, with a pint of porter at
one o'clock. About eight o'clock in the evening, half a pint of stout,
with another biscuit, may be taken; and for supper, at ten or half-past,
a pint of porter, with a slice of toast or a small amount of bread and
cheese, may conclude the feeding for the day.

2443. Animal food once in twenty-four hours is quite sufficient. All
spirits, unless in extreme cases, should be avoided; and wine is still
more seldom needed. With a due quantity of plain digestible food, and
the proportion of stout and porter ordered, with early hours and
regularity, the nurse will not only be strong and healthy herself, but
fully capable of rearing a child in health and strength. There are two
points all mothers, who are obliged to employ wet-nurses, should
remember, and be on their guard against. The first is, never to allow a
nurse to give medicine to the infant on her own authority: many have
such an infatuated idea of the _healing excellence_ of castor-oil, that
they would administer a dose of this disgusting grease twice a week, and
think they had done a meritorious service to the child. The next point
is, to watch carefully, lest, to insure a night's sleep for herself, she
does not dose the infant with Godfrey's cordial, syrup of poppies, or
some narcotic potion, to insure tranquillity to the one and give the
opportunity of sleep to the other. The fact that scores of nurses keep
secret bottles of these deadly syrups, for the purpose of stilling their
charges, is notorious; and that many use them to a fearful extent, is
sufficiently patent to all.

2444. It therefore behoves the mother, while obliged to trust to a
nurse, to use her best discretion to guard her child from the
unprincipled treatment of the person she must, to a certain extent,
depend upon and trust; and to remember, in all cases, rather than resort
to castor-oil or sedatives, to consult a medical man for her infant in
preference to following the counsel of her nurse.




THE REARING, MANAGEMENT, AND DISEASES OF INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD.


CHAPTER XLII.


Physiology of Life, as illustrated by Respiration, Circulation, and
Digestion.

2445. The infantine management of children, like the mother's love for
her offspring, seems to be born with the child, and to be a direct
intelligence of Nature. It may thus, at first sight, appear as
inconsistent and presumptuous to tell a woman how to rear her infant as
to instruct her in the manner of loving it. Yet, though Nature is
unquestionably the best nurse, Art makes so admirable a foster-mother,
that no sensible woman, in her novitiate of parent, would refuse the
admonitions of art, or the teachings of experience, to consummate her
duties of nurse. It is true that, in a civilized state of society, few
young wives reach the epoch that makes them mothers without some
insight, traditional or practical, into the management of infants:
consequently, the cases wherein a woman is left to her own unaided
intelligence, or what, in such a case, may be called instinct, and
obliged to trust to the promptings of nature alone for the well-being of
her child, are very rare indeed. Again, every woman is not gifted with
the same physical ability for the harassing duties of a mother; and
though Nature, as a general rule, has endowed all female creation with
the attributes necessary to that most beautiful and, at the same time,
holiest function,--the healthy rearing of their offspring,--the cases
are sufficiently numerous to establish the exception, where the mother
is either physically or socially incapacitated from undertaking these
most pleasing duties herself, and where, consequently, she is compelled
to trust to adventitious aid for those natural benefits which are at
once the mother's pride and delight to render to her child.

2446. In these cases, when obliged to call in the services of hired
assistance, she must trust the dearest obligation of her life to one
who, from her social sphere, has probably notions of rearing children
diametrically opposed to the preconceived ideas of the mother, and at
enmity with all her sentiments of right and prejudices of position.

2447. It has justly been said--we think by Hood--that the children of
the poor are not brought up, but _dragged up_. However facetious this
remark may seem, there is much truth in it; and that children, reared in
the reeking dens of squalor and poverty, live at all, is an apparent
anomaly in the course of things, that, at first sight, would seem to set
the laws of sanitary provision at defiance, and make it appear a perfect
waste of time to insist on pure air and exercise as indispensable
necessaries of life, and especially so as regards infantine existence.

2448. We see elaborate care bestowed on a family of children, everything
studied that can tend to their personal comfort,--pure air, pure water,
regular ablution, a dietary prescribed by art, and every precaution
adopted that medical judgment and maternal love can dictate, for the
well-being of the parents' hope; and find, in despite of all this care
and vigilance, disease and death invading the guarded treasure. We turn
to the foetor and darkness that, in some obscure court, attend the
robust brood who, coated in dirt, and with mud and refuse for
playthings, live and thrive, and grow into manhood, and, in contrast to
the pale face and flabby flesh of the aristocratic child, exhibit
strength, vigour, and well-developed frames, and our belief in the
potency of the life-giving elements of air, light, and cleanliness
receives a shock that, at first sight, would appear fatal to the implied
benefits of these, in reality, all-sufficient attributes of health and
life.

2449. But as we must enter more largely on this subject hereafter, we
shall leave its consideration for the present, and return to what we
were about to say respecting trusting to others' aid in the rearing of
children. Here it is that the young and probably inexperienced mother
may find our remarks not only an assistance but a comfort to her, in as
far as, knowing the simplest and best system to adopt, she may be able
to instruct another, and see that her directions are fully carried out.

2450. The human body, materially considered, is a beautiful piece of
mechanism, consisting of many parts, each one being the centre of a
system, and performing its own vital function irrespectively of the
others, and yet dependent for its vitality upon the harmony and health
of the whole. It is, in fact, to a certain extent, like a watch, which,
when once wound up and set in motion, will continue its function of
recording true time only so long as every wheel, spring, and lever
performs its allotted duty, and at its allotted time; or till the limit
that man's ingenuity has placed to its existence as a moving automaton
has been reached, or, in other words, till it has run down.

2451. What the key is to the mechanical watch, air is to the physical
man. Once admit air into the mouth and nostrils, and the lungs expand,
the heart beats, the blood rushes to the remotest part of the body, the
mouth secretes saliva, to soften and macerate the food; the liver forms
its bile, to separate the nutriment from the digested aliment; the
kidneys perform their office; the eye elaborates its tears, to
facilitate motion and impart that glistening to the orb on which depends
so much of its beauty; and a dewy moisture exudes from the skin,
protecting the body from the extremes of heat and cold, and sharpening
the perception of touch and feeling. At the same instant, and in every
part, the arteries, like innumerable bees, are everywhere laying down
layers of muscle, bones, teeth, and, in fact, like the coral zoophyte,
building up a continent of life and matter; while the veins, equally
busy, are carrying away the _débris_ and refuse collected from where the
zoophyte arteries are building,--this refuse, in its turn, being
conveyed to the liver, there to be converted into bile.

2452. All these--and they are but a few of the vital actions constantly
taking place--are the instant result of one gasp of life-giving air. No
subject can be fraught with greater interest than watching the first
spark of life, as it courses with electric speed "through all the gates
and alleys" of the soft, insensate body of the infant. The effect of air
on the new-born child is as remarkable in its results as it is wonderful
in its consequence; but to understand this more intelligibly, it must
first be remembered that life consists of the performance of _three_
vital functions--RESPIRATION, CIRCULATION, and DIGESTION. The lungs
digest the air, taking from it its most nutritious element, the
_oxygen_, to give to the impoverished blood that circulates
through them. The stomach digests the food, and separates the
nutriment--_chyle_--from the aliment, which it gives to the blood for
the development of the frame; and the blood, which is understood by the
term circulation, digests in its passage through the lungs the
nutriment--_chyle_--to give it quantity and quality, and the _oxygen_
from the air to give it vitality. Hence it will be seen, that, speaking
generally, the three vital functions resolve themselves into
one,--DIGESTION; and that the lungs are the primary and the most
important of the vital organs; and respiration, the first in fact, as we
all know it is the last in deed, of all the functions performed by the
living body.


THE LUNGS.--RESPIRATION.

2453. The first effect of air on the infant is a slight tremor about the
lips and angles of the mouth, increasing to twitchings, and finally to a
convulsive contraction of the lips and cheeks, the consequence of sudden
cold to the nerves of the face. This spasmodic action produces a gasp,
causing the air to rush through the mouth and nostrils, and enter the
windpipe and upper portion of the flat and contracted lungs, which, like
a sponge partly immersed in water, immediately expand. This is succeeded
by a few faint sobs or pants, by which larger volumes of air are drawn
into the chest, till, after a few seconds, and when a greater bulk of
the lungs has become inflated, the breast-bone and ribs rise, the chest
expands, and, with a sudden start, the infant gives utterance to a
succession of loud, sharp cries, which have the effect of filling every
cell of the entire organ with air and life. To the anxious mother, the
first voice of her child is, doubtless, the sweetest music she ever
heard; and the more loudly it peals, the greater should be her joy, as
it is an indication of health and strength, and not only shows the
perfect expansion of the lungs, but that the process of life has set in
with vigour. Having welcomed in its own existence, like the morning
bird, with a shrill note of gladness, the infant ceases its cry, and,
after a few short sobs, usually subsides into sleep or quietude.

2454. At the same instant that the air rushes into the lungs, the valve,
or door between the two sides of the heart-and through which the blood
had previously passed-is closed and hermetically sealed, and the blood
taking a new course, bounds into the lungs, now expanded with air, and
which we have likened to a wetted sponge, to which they bear a not unapt
affinity, air being substituted for water. It here receives the _oxygen_
from the atmosphere, and the _chyle_, or white blood, from the digested
food, and becomes, in an instant, arterial blood, a vital principle,
from which every solid and fluid of the body is constructed. Besides the
lungs, Nature has provided another respiratory organ, a sort of
supplemental lung, that, as well as being a covering to the body,
_in_spires air and _ex_pires moisture;--this is the cuticle, or skin;
and so intimate is the connection between the skin and lungs, that
whatever injures the first, is certain to affect the latter.

2455. _Hence the difficulty of breathing experienced after scalds or
burns on the cuticle, the cough that follows the absorption of cold or
damp by the skin, the oppressed and laborious breathing experienced by
children in all eruptive diseases, while the rash is coming to the
surface, and the hot, dry skin that always attends congestion of the
lungs, and fever._

2456. The great practical advantage derivable from this fact is, the
knowledge that whatever relieves the one benefits the other. Hence,
too, the great utility of hot baths in all affections of the lungs or
diseases of the skin; and the reason why exposure to cold or wet is, in
nearly all cases, followed by tightness of the chest, sore throat,
difficulty of breathing, and cough. These symptoms are the consequence
of a larger quantity of blood than is natural remaining in the lungs,
and the cough is a mere effort of Nature to throw off the obstruction
caused by the presence of too much blood in the organ of respiration.
The hot bath, by causing a larger amount of blood to rush suddenly to
the skin, has the effect of relieving the lungs of their excess of
blood, and by equalizing the circulation, and promoting perspiration
from the cuticle, affords immediate and direct benefit, both to the
lungs and the system at large.


THE STOMACH--DIGESTION.

2457. The organs that either directly or indirectly contribute to the
process of digestion are, the mouth, teeth, tongue, and gullet, the
stomach, small intestines, the pancreas, the salivary glands, and the
liver. Next to respiration, digestion is the chief function in the
economy of life, as, without the nutritious fluid digested from the
aliment, there would be nothing to supply the immense and constantly
recurring waste of the system, caused by the activity with which the
arteries at all periods, but especially during infancy and youth, are
building up the frame and developing the body. In infancy (the period of
which our present subject treats), the series of parts engaged in the
process of digestion may be reduced simply to the stomach and liver, or
rather its secretion,--the bile. The stomach is a thick muscular bag,
connected above with the gullet, and, at its lower extremity, with the
commencement of the small intestines. The duty or function of the
stomach is to secrete from the arteries spread over its inner surface, a
sharp acid liquid called the _gastric_ juice; this, with a due mixture
of saliva, softens, dissolves, and gradually digests the food or
contents of the stomach, reducing the whole into a soft pulpy mass,
which then passes into the first part of the small intestines, where it
comes in contact with the bile from the gall-bladder, which immediately
separates the digested food into two parts, one is a white creamy fluid
called chyle, and the absolute concentration of all nourishment, which
is taken up by proper vessels, and, as we have before said, carried
directly to the heart, to be made blood of, and vitalized in the lungs,
and thus provide for the wear and tear of the system. It must be here
observed that the stomach can only digest solids, for fluids, being
incapable of that process, can only be _absorbed_; and without the
result of digestion, animal, at least human life, could not exist. Now,
as Nature has ordained that infantine life shall be supported on liquid
aliment, and as, without a digestion the body would perish, some
provision was necessary to meet this difficulty, and that provision was
found in the nature of the liquid itself, or in other words, THE MILK.
The process of making cheese, or fresh curds and whey, is familiar to
most persons; but as it is necessary to the elucidation of our subject,
we will briefly repeat it. The internal membrane, or the lining coat of
a calf's stomach, having been removed from the organ, is hung up, like a
bladder, to dry; when required, a piece is cut off, put in a jug, a
little warm water poured upon it, and after a few hours it is fit for
use; the liquid so made being called _rennet_. A little of this rennet,
poured into a basin of warm milk, at once coagulates the greater part,
and separates from it a quantity of thin liquor, called _whey_. This is
precisely the action that takes place in the infant's stomach after
every supply from the breast. The cause is the same in both cases, the
acid of the gastric juice in the infant's stomach immediately converting
the milk into a soft cheese. It is gastric juice, adhering to the calf's
stomach, and drawn out by the water, forming rennet, that makes the
curds in the basin. The cheesy substance being a solid, at once
undergoes the process of digestion, is separated into _chyle_ by the
bile, and, in a few hours, finds its way to the infant's heart, to
become blood, and commence the architecture of its little frame. This is
the simple process of a baby's digestion:-milk converted into cheese,
cheese into _chyle_, chyle into blood, and blood into flesh, bone, and
tegument-how simple is the cause, but how sublime and wonderful are the
effects!

2458. We have described the most important of the three functions that
take place in the infant's body-respiration and digestion; the third,
namely, circulation, we hardly think it necessary to enter on, not being
called for by the requirements of the nurse and mother; so we shall omit
its notice, and proceed from theoretical to more practical
considerations. Children of weakly constitutions are just as likely to
be born of robust parents, and those who earn their bread by toil, as
the offspring of luxury and affluence; and, indeed, it is against the
ordinary providence of Nature to suppose the children of the hardworking
and necessitous to be hardier and more vigorous than those of parents
blessed with ease and competence.

2459. All children come into the world in the same imploring
helplessness, with the same general organization and wants, and
demanding either from the newly-awakened mother's love, or from the
memory of motherly feeling in the nurse, or the common appeals of
humanity in those who undertake the earliest duties of an infant, the
same assistance and protection, and the same fostering care.


THE INFANT.

2460. We have already described the phenomena produced on the new-born
child by the contact of air, which, after a succession of muscular
twitchings, becomes endowed with voice, and heralds its advent by a loud
but brief succession of cries. But though this is the general rule, it
sometimes happens (from causes it is unnecessary here to explain) that
the infant does not cry, or give utterance to any audible sounds, or if
it does, they are so faint as scarcely to be distinguished as human
accents, plainly indicating that life, as yet, to the new visitor, is
neither a boon nor a blessing; the infant being, in fact, in a state of
suspended or imperfect vitality,--a state of _quasi_ existence, closely
approximating the condition of a _still-birth_.

2461. As soon as this state of things is discovered, the child should be
turned on its right side, and the whole length of the spine, from the
head downwards, rubbed with all the fingers of the right hand, sharply
and quickly, without intermission, till the quick action has not only
evoked heat, but electricity in the part, and till the loud and sharp
cries of the child have thoroughly expanded the lungs, and
satisfactorily established its life. The operation will seldom require
above a minute to effect, and less frequently demands a repetition. If
there is brandy at hand, the fingers before rubbing may be dipped into
that, or any other spirit.

2462. There-is another condition of what we may call "mute births,"
where the child only makes short ineffectual gasps, and those at
intervals of a minute or two apart, when the lips, eyelids, and fingers
become of a deep purple or slate colour, sometimes half the body
remaining white, while the other half, which was at first swarthy,
deepens to a livid hue. This condition of the infant is owing to the
valve between the two sides of the heart remaining open, and allowing
the unvitalized venous blood to enter the arteries and get into the
circulation.

2463. The object in this case, as in the previous one, is to dilate the
lungs as quickly as possible, so that, by the sudden effect of a
vigorous inspiration, the valve may be firmly closed, and the impure
blood, losing this means of egress, be sent directly to the lungs. The
same treatment is therefore necessary as in the previous case, with the
addition, if the friction along the spine has failed, of a warm bath at
a temperature of about 80°, in which the child is to be plunged up to
the neck, first cleansing the mouth and nostrils of the mucus that might
interfere with the free passage of air.

2464. While in the bath, the friction along the spine is to be
continued, and if the lungs still remain unexpended, while one person
retains the child in an inclined position in the water, another should
insert the pipe of a small pair of bellows into one nostril, and while
the month is closed and the other nostril compressed on the pipe with
the hand of the assistant, the lungs are to be slowly inflated by steady
puffs of air from the bellows, the hand being removed from the mouth and
nose after each inflation, and placed on the pit of the stomach, and by
a steady pressure expelling it out again by the mouth. This process is
to be continued, steadily inflating and expelling the air from the
lungs, till, with a sort of tremulous leap, Nature takes up the process,
and the infant begins to gasp, and finally to cry, at first low and
faint, but with every gulp of air increasing in length and strength of
volume, when it is to be removed from the water, and instantly wrapped
(all but the face and mouth) in a flannel. Sometimes, however, all these
means will fail in effecting an utterance from the child, which will
lie, with livid lips and a flaccid body, every few minutes opening its
mouth with a short gasping pant, and then subsiding into a state of
pulseless inaction, lingering probably some hours, till the spasmodic
pantings growing further apart, it ceases to exist.

2465. The time that this state of negative vitality will linger in the
frame of an infant is remarkable; and even when all the previous
operations, though long-continued, have proved ineffectual, the child
will often rally from the simplest of means--the application of dry
heat. When removed from the bath, place three or four hot bricks or
tiles on the hearth, and lay the child, loosely folded in a flannel, on
its back along them, taking care that there is but one fold of flannel
between the spine and heated bricks or tiles. When neither of these
articles can be procured, put a few clear pieces of red cinder in a
warming-pan, and extend the child in the same manner along the closed
lid. As the heat gradually diffuses itself over the spinal marrow, the
child that was dying, or seemingly dead, will frequently give a sudden
and energetic cry, succeeded in another minute by a long and vigorous
peal, making up, in volume and force, for the previous delay, and
instantly confirming its existence by every effort in its nature.

2466. With these two exceptions,--restored by the means we have pointed
out to the functions of life,--we will proceed to the consideration of
the child HEALTHILY BORN. Here the first thing that meets us on the
threshold of inquiry, and what is often between mother and nurse not
only a vexed question, but one of vexatious import, is the _crying_ of
the child; the mother, in her natural anxiety, maintaining that her
infant _must be ill_ to cause it to cry so much or so often, and the
nurse insisting that _all_ children cry, and that nothing is the matter
with it, and that crying does good, and is, indeed, an especial benefit
to infancy. The anxious and unfamiliar mother, though not convinced by
these abstract sayings of the truth or wisdom of the explanation, takes
both for granted; and, giving the nurse credit for more knowledge and
experience on this head than she can have, contentedly resigns herself
to the infliction, as a thing necessary to be endured for the good of
the baby, but thinking it, at the same time, an extraordinary instance
of the imperfectibility of Nature as regards the human infant; for her
mind wanders to what she has observed in her childhood with puppies and
kittens, who, except when rudely torn from their nurse, seldom give
utterance to any complaining.

2467. We, undoubtedly, believe that crying, to a certain extent, is not
only conducive to health, but positively necessary to the full
development and physical economy of the infant's being. But though
holding this opinion, we are far from believing that a child does not
very often cry from pain, thirst, want of food, and attention to its
personal comfort; but there is as much difference in the tone and
expression of a child's cry as in the notes of an adult's voice; and the
mother's ear will not be long in discriminating between the sharp
peevish whine of irritation and fever, and the louder intermitting cry
that characterizes the want of warmth and sleep. All these shades of
expression in the child's inarticulate voice every nurse _should_
understand, and every mother will soon teach herself to interpret them
with an accuracy equal to language.

2468. There is no part of a woman's duty to her child that a young
mother should so soon make it her business to study, as the voice of her
infant, and the language conveyed in its cry. The study is neither hard
nor difficult; a close attention to its tone, and the expression of the
baby's features, are the two most important points demanding attention.
The key to both the mother will find in her own heart, and the knowledge
of her success in the comfort and smile of her infant. We have two
reasons--both strong ones--for urging on mothers the imperative
necessity of early making themselves acquainted with the nature and
wants of their child: the first, that when left to the entire,
responsibility of the baby, after the departure of the nurse, she may be
able to undertake her new duties with more confidence than if left to
her own resources and mother's instinct, without a clue to guide her
through the mysteries of those calls that vibrate through every nerve of
her nature; and, secondly, that she may be able to guard her child from
the nefarious practices of unprincipled nurses, who, while calming the
mother's mind with false statements as to the character of the baby's
cries, rather than lose their rest, or devote that time which would
remove the cause of suffering, administer, behind the curtains, those
deadly narcotics which, while stupefying Nature into sleep, insure for
herself a night of many unbroken hours. Such nurses as have not the
hardihood to dose their infant charges, are often full of other schemes
to still that constant and reproachful cry. The most frequent means
employed for this purpose is giving it something to suck,--something
easily hid from the mother,--or, when that is impossible, under the plea
of keeping it warm, the nurse covers it in her lap with a shawl, and,
under this blind, surreptitiously inserts a finger between the parched
lips, which possibly moan for drink; and, under this inhuman cheat and
delusion, the infant is pacified, till Nature, balked of its desires,
drops into a troubled sleep. These are two of our reasons for impressing
upon mothers the early, the immediate necessity of putting themselves
sympathetically in communication with their child, by at once learning
its hidden language as a delightful task.

2469. We must strenuously warn all mothers on no account to allow the
nurse to sleep with the baby, never herself to lay down with it by her
side for a night's rest, never to let it sleep in the parents' bed, and
on no account keep it, longer than absolutely necessary, confined in on
atmosphere loaded with the breath of many adults.

2470. The amount of _oxygen_ required by an infant is so large, and the
quantity consumed by mid-life and age, and the proportion of carbonic
acid thrown off from both, so considerable, that an infant breathing the
same air cannot possibly carry on its healthy existence while deriving
its vitality from so corrupted a medium. This objection, always in
force, is still more objectionable at night-time, when doors and windows
are closed, and amounts to a condition of poison, when placed between
two adults in sleep, and shut in by bed-curtains; and when, in addition
to the impurities expired from the lungs, we remember, in quiescence and
sleep, how large a portion of mephitic gas is given off from the skin.

2471. Mothers, in the fullness of their affection, believe there is no
harbour, sleeping or awake, where their infants can be so secure from
all possible or probable danger as in their own arms; yet we should
astound our readers if we told them the statistical number of infants
who, in despite of their motherly solicitude and love, are annually
killed, unwittingly, by such parents themselves, and this from the
persistency in the practice we are so strenuously condemning. The mother
frequently, on awaking, discovers the baby's face closely impacted
between her bosom and her arm, and its body rigid and lifeless; or else
so enveloped in the "head-blanket" and superincumbent bedclothes, as to
render breathing a matter of physical impossibility. In such cases the
jury in general returns a verdict of "_Accidentally overlaid_" but one
of "Careless suffocation" would be more in accordance with truth and
justice. The only possible excuse that can be urged, either by nurse or
mother, for this culpable practice, is the plea of imparting warmth to
the infant. But this can always be effected by an extra blanket in the
child's crib, or, if the weather is particularly cold, by a bottle of
hot water enveloped in flannel and placed at the child's feet; while all
the objections already urged--as derivable from animal heat imparted by
actual contact--are entirely obviated. There is another evil attending
the sleeping together of the mother and infant, which, as far as regards
the latter, we consider quite as formidable, though not so immediate as
the others, and is always followed by more or less of mischief to the
mother. The evil we now allude to is that most injurious practice of
letting the child _suck_ after the mother has _fallen asleep_, a custom
that naturally results from the former, and which, as we hare already
said, is injurious to both mother and child. It is injurious to the
infant by allowing it, without control, to imbibe to distension a fluid
sluggishly secreted and deficient in those vital principles which the
want of mental energy, and of the sympathetic appeals of the child on
the mother, so powerfully produce on the secreted nutriment, while the
mother wakes in a state of clammy exhaustion, with giddiness, dimness of
sight, nausea, loss of appetite, and a dull aching pain through the back
and between the shoulders. In fact, she wakes languid and unrefreshed
from her sleep, with febrile symptoms and hectic flushes, caused by her
baby vampire, who, while dragging from her her health and strength, has
excited in itself a set of symptoms directly opposite, but fraught with
the same injurious consequences--"functional derangement."


THE MILK.

2472. As Nature has placed in the bosom of the mother the natural food
of her offspring, it must be self-evident to every reflecting woman,
that it becomes her duty to study, as far as lies in her power, to keep
that reservoir of nourishment in as pure and invigorating a condition as
possible; for she must remember that the _quantity_ is no proof of the
_quality_ of this aliment.

2473. The mother, while suckling, as a general rule, should avoid all
sedentary occupations, take regular exercise, keep her mind as lively
and pleasingly occupied as possible, especially by music and singing.
Her diet should be light and nutritious, with a proper sufficiency of
animal food, and of that kind which yields the largest amount of
nourishment; and, unless the digestion is naturally strong, vegetables
and fruit should form a very small proportion of the general dietary,
and such preparations as broths, gruels, arrowroot, &c., still less.
Tapioca, or ground-rice pudding, made with several eggs, may be taken
freely; but all slops and thin potations, such as that delusion called
chicken-broth, should be avoided, as yielding a very small amount of
nutriment, and a large proportion of flatulence. All purely stimulants
should be avoided as much as possible, especially spirits, unless taken
for some special object, and that medicinally; but as a part of the
dietary they should be carefully shunned. Lactation is always an
exhausting process, and as the child increases in size and strength, the
drain upon the mother becomes great and depressing. Then something more
even than an abundant diet is required to keep the mind and body up to a
standard sufficiently healthy to admit of a constant and nutritious
secretion being performed without detriment to the physical integrity of
the mother, or injury to the child who imbibes it; and as stimulants are
inadmissible, if not positively injurious, the substitute required is to
be found in _malt liquor_. To the lady accustomed to her Madeira and
sherry, this may appear a very vulgar potation for a delicate young
mother to take instead of the more subtle and condensed elegance of
wine; but as we are writing from experience, and with the avowed object
of imparting useful facts and beneficial remedies to our readers, we
allow no social distinctions to interfere with our legitimate object.

2474. We have already said that the suckling mother should avoid
stimulants, especially spirituous ones; and though something of this
sort is absolutely necessary to support her strength during the
exhausting process, it should be rather of a _tonic_ than of a
stimulating character; and as all wines contain a large percentage of
brandy, they are on that account less beneficial than the pure juice of
the fermented grape might be. But there is another consideration to be
taken into account on this subject; the mother has not only to think of
herself, but also of her infant. Now wines, especially port wine, very
often--indeed, most frequently--affect the baby's bowels, and what might
have been grateful to the mother becomes thus a source of pain and
irritation to the child afterwards. Sherry is less open to this
objection than other wines, yet still _it_ very frequently does
influence the second participator, or the child whose mother has taken
it.

2475. The nine or twelve months a woman usually suckles must be, to some
extent, to most mothers, a period of privation and penance, and unless
she is deaf to the cries of her baby, and insensible to its kicks and
plunges, and will not see in such muscular evidences the griping pains
that rack her child, she will avoid every article that can remotely
affect the little being who draws its sustenance from her. She will see
that the babe is acutely affected by all that in any way influences her,
and willingly curtail her own enjoyments, rather than see her infant
rendered feverish, irritable, and uncomfortable. As the best tonic,
then, and the most efficacious indirect stimulant that a mother can take
at such times, there is no potation equal to _porter_ and _stout_, or,
what is better still, an equal part of porter and stout. Ale, except for
a few constitutions, is too subtle and too sweet, generally causing
acidity or heartburn, and stout alone is too potent to admit of a full
draught, from its proneness to affect the head; and quantity, as well as
moderate strength, is required to make the draught effectual; the equal
mixture, therefore, of stout and porter yields all the properties
desired or desirable as a medicinal agent for this purpose.

2476. Independently of its invigorating influence on the constitution,
_porter exerts a marked and specific effect on the secretion of milk;
more powerful in exciting an abundant supply of that fluid than any
other article within the range of the physician's art;_ and, in cases of
deficient quantity, is the most certain, speedy, and the healthiest
means that can be employed to insure a quick and abundant flow. In cases
where malt liquor produces flatulency, a few grains of the "carbonate of
soda" may advantageously be added to each glass immediately before
drinking, which will have the effect of neutralizing any acidity that
may be in the porter at the time, and will also prevent its
after-disagreement with the stomach. The quantity to be taken must
depend upon the natural strength of the mother, the age and demand made
by the infant on the parent, and other causes; but the amount should
vary from _one_ to _two_ pints a day, never taking less than half a pint
at a time, which should be repeated three or four times a day.

2477. We have said that the period of suckling is a season of penance to
the mother, but this is not invariably the case; and, as so much must
depend upon the natural strength of the stomach, and its power of
assimilating all kinds of food into healthy _chyle_, it is impossible to
define exceptions. Where a woman feels she can eat any kind of food,
without inconvenience or detriment, she should live during her suckling
as she did before; but, as a general rule, we are bound to advise all
mothers to abstain from such articles as pickles, fruits, cucumbers, and
all acid and slowly digestible foods, unless they wish for restless
nights and crying infants.

2478. As regards exercise and amusement, we would certainly neither
prohibit a mother's dancing, going to a theatre, nor even from attending
an assembly. The first, however, is the best indoor recreation she can
take, and a young mother will do well to often amuse herself in the
nursery with this most excellent means of healthful circulation. The
only precaution necessary is to avoid letting the child suck the milk
that has lain long in the breast, or is heated by excessive action.

2479. Every mother who can, should be provided with a breast-pump, or
glass tube, to draw off the superabundance that has been accumulating in
her absence from the child, or the first gush excited by undue exertion:
the subsequent supply of milk will be secreted under the invigorating
influence of a previous healthy stimulus.

2480. As the first milk that is secreted contains a large amount of the
saline elements, and is thin and innutritious, it is most admirably
adapted for the purpose Nature designed it to fulfil,--that of an
aperient; but which, unfortunately, it is seldom permitted, in our
artificial mode of living, to perform.

2481. So opposed are we to the objectionable plan of physicking new-born
children, that, unless for positive illness, we would much rather advise
that medicine should be administered _through_ the mother for the first
eight or ten weeks of its existence. This practice, which few mothers
will object to, is easily effected by the parent, when such a course is
necessary for the child, taking either a dose of castor-oil, half an
ounce of tasteless salts (the phosphate of soda), one or two
teaspoonfuls of magnesia, a dose of lenitive electuary, manna, or any
mild and simple aperient, which, almost before it can have taken effect
on herself, will exhibit its action on her child.

2482. One of the most common errors that mothers fall into while
suckling their children, is that of fancying they are always hungry, and
consequently overfeeding them; and with this, the great mistake of
applying the child to the breast on every occasion of its crying,
without investigating the cause of its complaint, and, under the belief
that it wants food, putting the nipple into its crying mouth, until the
infant turns in revulsion and petulance from what it should accept with
eagerness and joy. At such times, a few teaspoonfuls of water, slightly
chilled, will often instantly pacify a crying and restless child, who
has turned in loathing from the offered breast; or, after imbibing a few
drops, and finding it not what nature craved, throws back its head in
disgust, and cries more petulantly than before. In such a case as this,
the young mother, grieved at her baby's rejection of the tempting
present, and distressed at its cries, and in terror of some injury, over
and over ransacks its clothes, believing some insecure pin can alone be
the cause of such sharp complaining, an accident that, from her own care
in dressing, however, is seldom or ever the case.

2483. These abrupt cries of the child, if they do not proceed from
thirst, which a little water will relieve, not unfrequently occur from
some unequal pressure, a fold or twist in the "roller," or some
constriction round the tender body. If this is suspected, the mother
must not be content with merely slackening the strings; the child should
be undressed, and the creases and folds of the hot skin, especially
those about the thighs and groins, examined, to see that no powder has
caked, and, becoming hard, irritated the parts. The violet powder should
be dusted freely over all, to cool the skin, and everything put on fresh
and smooth. If such precautions have not afforded relief, and, in
addition to the crying, the child plunges or draws up its legs, the
mother may be assured some cause of irritation exists in the stomach or
bowels,--either acidity in the latter or distension from overfeeding in
the former; but, from whichever cause, the child should be "opened"
before the fire, and a heated napkin applied all over the abdomen, the
infant being occasionally elevated to a sitting position, and while
gently jolted on the knee, the back should be lightly patted with the
hand.

2484. Should the mother have any reason to apprehend that the _cause_ of
inconvenience proceeds from the bladder--a not unfrequent source of
pain,--the napkin is to be dipped in hot water, squeezed out, and
immediately applied over the part, and repeated every eight or ten
minutes, for several times in succession, either till the natural relief
is afforded, or a cessation of pain allows of its discontinuance. The
pain that young infants often suffer, and the crying that results from
it, is, as we have already said, frequently caused by the mother
inconsiderately overfeeding her child, and is produced by the pain of
distension, and the mechanical pressure of a larger quantity of fluid in
the stomach than the gastric juice can convert into cheese and digest.

2485. Some children are stronger in the enduring power of the stomach
than others, and get rid of the excess by vomiting, concluding every
process of suckling by an emission of milk and curd. Such children are
called by nurses "thriving children;" and generally they are so, simply
because their digestion is good, and they have the power of expelling
with impunity that superabundance of aliment which in others is a source
of distension, flatulence, and pain.

2486. The length of time an infant should be suckled must depend much on
the health and strength of the child, and the health of the mother, and
the quantity and quality of her milk; though, when all circumstances are
favourable, it should never be less than _nine_, nor exceed _fifteen_
months; but perhaps the true time will be found in the medium between
both. But of this we may be sure, that Nature never ordained a child to
live on suction after having endowed it with teeth to bite and to grind;
and nothing is more out of place and unseemly than to hear a child, with
a set of twenty teeth, ask for "the breast."

2487. The practice of protracted wet-nursing is hurtful to the mother,
by keeping up an uncalled-for, and, after the proper time, an unhealthy
drain on her system, while the child either derives no benefit from what
it no longer requires, or it produces a positive injury on its
constitution. After the period when Nature has ordained the child shall
live by other means, the secretion of milk becomes thin and
deteriorated, showing in the flabby flesh and puny features of the child
both its loss of nutritious properties and the want of more stimulating
aliment.

2488. Though we have said that twelve months is about the medium time a
baby should be suckled, we by no means wish to imply that a child should
be fed exclusively on milk for its first year; quite the reverse; the
infant can hardly be too soon made independent of the mother. Thus,
should illness assail her, her milk fail, or any domestic cause abruptly
cut off the natural supply, the child having been annealed to an
artificial diet, its life might be safely carried on without seeking for
a wet-nurse, and without the slightest danger to its system.

2489. The advantage to the mother of early accustoming the child to
artificial food is as considerable to herself as beneficial to her
infant; the demand on her physical strength in the first instance will
be less severe and exhausting, the child will sleep longer on a less
rapidly digestible aliment, and yield to both more quiet nights, and the
mother will be more at liberty to go out for business or pleasure,
another means of sustenance being at hand till her return. Besides these
advantages, by a judicious blending of the two systems of feeding, the
infant will acquire greater constitutional strength, so that, if
attacked by sickness or disease, it will have a much greater chance of
resisting its virulence than if dependent alone on the mother, whose
milk, affected by fatigue and the natural anxiety of the parent for her
offspring, is at such a time neither good in its properties nor likely
to be beneficial to the patient.

2490. All that we have further to say on suckling is an advice to
mothers, that if they wish to keep a sound and unchapped nipple, and
possibly avoid what is called a "broken breast," never to put it up with
a wet nipple, but always to have a soft handkerchief in readiness, and
the moment that delicate part is drawn from the child's mouth, to dry it
carefully of the milk and saliva that moisten it; and, further, to make
a practice of suckling from each breast alternately.


Dress and Dressing, Washing, &c.

2491. As respects the dress and dressing of a new-born infant, or of a
child in arms, during any stage of its nursing, there are few women who
will require us to give them guidance or directions for their
instruction; and though a few hints on the subject may not be out of
place here, yet most women intuitively "take to a baby," and, with a
small amount of experience, are able to perform all the little offices
necessary to its comfort and cleanliness with ease and completeness. We
shall, therefore, on this delicate subject hold our peace; and only,
from afar, _hint_ "at what we would," leaving our suggestions to be
approved or rejected, according as they chime with the judgment and the
apprehension of our motherly readers.

2492. In these days of intelligence, there are few ladies who have not,
in all probability, seen the manner in which the Indian squaw, the
aborigines of Polynesia, and even the Lapp and Esquimaux, strap down
their baby on a board, and by means of a loop suspend it to the bough of
a tree, hang it up to the rafters of the hut, or on travel, dangle it on
their backs, outside the domestic implements, which, as the slave of her
master, man, the wronged but uncomplaining woman carries, in order that
her lord may march in unhampered freedom. Cruel and confining as this
system of "backboard" dressing may seem to our modern notions of freedom
and exercise, it is positively less irksome, less confining, and
infinitely less prejudicial to health, than the mummying of children by
our grandmothers a hundred, ay, fifty years ago: for what with
chin-stays, back-stays, body-stays, forehead-cloths, rollers, bandages,
&c., an infant had as many girths and strings, to keep head, limbs, and
body in one exact position, as a ship has halyards.

2493. Much of this--indeed we may say all--has been abolished; but still
the child is far from being dressed loosely enough; and we shall never
be satisfied till the abominable use of the _pin_ is avoided _in toto_
in an infant's dressing, and a texture made for all the under garments
of a child of a cool and elastic material.

2494. The manner in which an infant is encircled in a bandage called the
"roller," as if it had fractured ribs, compressing those organs--that,
living on suction, must be, for the health of the child, to a certain
degree distended, to obtain sufficient aliment from the fluid
imbibed--is perfectly preposterous. Our humanity, as well as our duty,
calls upon us at once to abrogate and discountenance by every means in
our power. Instead of the process of washing and dressing being made, as
with the adult, a refreshment and comfort, it is, by the dawdling manner
in which it is performed, the multiplicity of things used, and the
perpetual change of position of the infant to adjust its complicated
clothing, rendered an operation of positive irritation and annoyance.
We, therefore, entreat all mothers to regard this subject in its true
light, and study to the utmost, simplicity in dress, and dispatch in the
process.

2495. Children do not so much cry from the washing as from the
irritation caused by the frequent change of position in which they are
placed, the number of times they are turned on their face, on their
back, and on their side, by the manipulations demanded by the
multiplicity of articles to be fitted, tacked, and carefully adjusted on
their bodies. What mother ever found her girl of six or seven stand
quiet while she was curling her hair? How many times nightly has she not
to reprove her for not standing still during the process! It is the same
with the unconscious infant, who cannot bear to be moved about, and who
has no sooner grown reconciled to one position than it is forced
reluctantly into another. It is true, in one instance the child has
intelligence to guide it, and in the other not; but the _motitory
nerves_, in both instances, resent coercion, and a child cannot be too
little handled.

2496. On this account alone, and, for the moment, setting health and
comfort out of the question, we beg mothers to simplify their baby's
dress as much as possible; and not only to put on as little as is
absolutely necessary, but to make that as simple in its contrivance and
adjustment as it will admit of; to avoid belly-bands, rollers, girths,
and everything that can impede or confine the natural expansion of the
digestive organs, on the due performance of whose functions the child
lives, thrives, and develops its physical being.


REARING BY HAND.

Articles necessary, and how to use them,--Preparation of Foods.--
Baths.--Advantages of Rearing by Hand.

2497. As we do not for a moment wish to be thought an advocate for an
artificial, in preference to the natural course of rearing children, we
beg our renders to understand us perfectly on this head; all we desire
to prove is the fact that a child _can_ be brought up as well on a spoon
dietary as the best example to be found of those reared on the breast;
having more strength, indeed, from the more nutritious food on which it
lives. It will be thus less liable to infectious diseases, and more
capable of resisting the virulence of any danger that may attack it; and
without in any way depreciating the nutriment of its natural food, we
wish to impress on the mother's mind that there are many cases of
infantine debility which might eventuate in rickets, curvature of the
spine, or mesenteric disease, where the addition to, or total
substitution of, an artificial and more stimulating aliment, would not
only give tone and strength to the constitution, but at the same time
render the employment of mechanical means totally unnecessary. And,
finally, though we would never--where the mother had the strength to
suckle her child--supersede the breast, we would insist on making it a
rule to accustom the child as early as possible to the use of an
artificial diet, not only that it may acquire more vigour to help it
over the ills of childhood, but that, in the absence of the mother, it
might not miss the maternal sustenance; and also for the parent's sake,
that, should the milk, from any cause, become vitiated, or suddenly
cease, the child can be made over to the bottle and the spoon without
the slightest apprehension of hurtful consequences.

2498. To those persons unacquainted with the system, or who may have
been erroneously informed on the matter, the rearing of a child by hand
may seem surrounded by innumerable difficulties, and a large amount of
personal trouble and anxiety to the nurse or mother who undertakes the
duty. This, however, is a fallacy in every respect, except as regards
the fact of preparing the food; but even this extra amount of work, by
adopting the course we shall lay down, may be reduced to a very small
sum of inconvenience; and as respects anxiety, the only thing calling
for care is the display of judgment in the preparation of the food. The
articles required for the purpose of feeding an infant are a night-lamp,
with its pan and lid, to keep the food warm; a nursing-bottle, with a
prepared teat; and a small pap saucepan, for use by day. Of the lamp we
need hardly speak, most mothers being acquainted with its operation: but
to those to whom it is unknown we may observe, that the flame from the
floating rushlight heats the water in the reservoir above, in which the
covered pan that contains the food floats, keeping it at such a heat
that, when thinned by milk, it will be of a temperature suitable for
immediate use. Though many kinds of nursing-bottles have been lately
invented, and some mounted with India-rubber nipples, the common glass
bottle, with the calf's teat, is equal in cleanliness and utility to
any; besides, the nipple put into the child's mouth is so white and
natural in appearance, that no child taken from the breast will refuse
it. The black artificial ones of caoutchouc or gutta-percha are
unnatural. The prepared teats can be obtained at any chemist's, and as
they are kept in spirits, they will require a little soaking in warm
water, and gentle washing, before being tied securely, by means of fine
twine, round the neck of the bottle, just sufficient being left
projecting for the child to grasp freely in its lips; for if left the
full length, or over long, it will be drawn too far into the mouth, and
possibly make the infant heave. When once properly adjusted, the nipple
need never be removed till replaced by a new one, which will hardly be
necessary oftener than once a fortnight, though with care one will last
for several weeks. The nursing-bottle should be thoroughly washed and
cleaned every day, and always rinsed out before and after using it, the
warm water being squeezed through the nipple, to wash out any particles
of food that might lodge in the aperture, and become sour. The teat can
always be kept white and soft by turning the end of the bottle, when not
in use, into a narrow jug containing water, taking care to dry it first,
and then to warm it by drawing the food through before putting it into
the child's mouth.


Food, and its Preparation.

2499. The articles generally employed as food for infants consist of
arrowroot, bread, flour, baked flour, prepared groats, farinaceous food,
biscuit-powder, biscuits, tops-and-bottoms, and semolina, or manna
croup, as it is otherwise called, which, like tapioca, is the prepared
pith of certain vegetable substances. Of this list the least
efficacious, though, perhaps, the most believed in, is arrowroot, which
only as a mere agent, for change, and then only for a very short time,
should ever be employed as a means of diet to infancy or childhood. It
is a thin, flatulent, and innutritious food, and incapable of supporting
infantine life with energy. Bread, though the universal _régime_ with
the labouring poor, where the infant's stomach and digestive powers are
a reflex, in miniature, of the father's, should never be given to an
infant under three months, and, even then, however finely beaten up and
smoothly made, is a very questionable diet. Flour, when well boiled,
though infinitely better than arrowroot, is still only a kind of
fermentative paste, that counteracts its own good by after-acidity and
flatulence.

2500. Baked flour, when cooked into a pale brown mass, and finely
powdered, makes a far superior food to the others, and may be considered
as a very useful diet, especially for a change. Prepared groats may be
classed with arrowroot and raw flour, as being innutritious. The
articles that now follow in our list are all good, and such as we could,
with conscience and safety, trust to for the health and development of
any child whatever.

2501. We may observe in this place, that an occasional change in the
character of the food is highly desirable, both as regards the health
and benefit of the child; and though the interruption should only last
for a day, the change will be advantageous.

2502. The packets sold as farinaceous food are unquestionably the best
aliment that can be given from the first to a baby, and may be
continued, with the exception of an occasional change, without
alteration of the material, till the child is able to take its regular
meals of animal and vegetable food. Some infants are so constituted as
to require a frequent and total change in their system of living,
seeming to thrive for a certain time on any food given to them, but if
persevered in too long, declining in bulk and appearance as rapidly as
they had previously progressed. In such cases the food should be
immediately changed, and when that which appeared to agree best with the
child is resumed, it should be altered in its quality, and perhaps in
its consistency.

2503. For the farinaceous food there are directions with each packet,
containing instructions for the making; but, whatever the food employed
is, enough should be made at once to last the day and night; at first,
about a pint basinful, but, as the child advances, a quart will hardly
be too much. In all cases, let the food boil a sufficient time,
constantly stirring, and taking every precaution that it does not get
burnt, in which case it is on no account to be used.

2504. The food should always be made with water, the whole sweetened at
once, and of such a consistency that, when poured out, and it has had
time to cool, it will cut with the firmness of a pudding or custard. One
or two spoonfuls are to be put into the pap saucepan and stood on the
hob till the heat has softened it, when enough milk is to be added, and
carefully mixed with the food, till the whole has the consistency of
ordinary cream; it is then to be poured into the nursing-bottle, and the
food having been drawn through to warm the nipple, it is to be placed in
the child's mouth. For the first month or more, half a bottleful will be
quite enough to give the infant at one time; but, as the child grows, it
will be necessary not only to increase the quantity given at each time,
but also gradually to make its food more consistent, and, after the
third month, to add an egg to every pint basin of food made. At night
the mother puts the food into the covered pan of her lamp, instead of
the saucepan--that is, enough for one supply, and, having lighted the
rush, she will find, on the waking of her child, the food sufficiently
hot to bear the cooling addition of the milk. But, whether night or day,
the same food should never be heated twice, and what the child leaves
should be thrown away.

2505. The biscuit powder is used in the same manner as the farinaceous
food, and both prepared much after the fashion of making starch. But
when tops-and-bottoms, or the whole biscuit, are employed, they require
soaking in cold water for some time previous to boiling. The biscuit or
biscuits are then to be slowly boiled in as much water as will, when
thoroughly soft, allow of their being beaten by a three-pronged fork
into a fine, smooth, and even pulp, and which, when poured into a basin
and become cold, will cut out like a custard. If two large biscuits have
been so treated, and the child is six or seven months old, beat up two
eggs, sufficient sugar to properly sweeten it, and about a pint of skim
milk. Pour this on the beaten biscuit in the saucepan, stirring
constantly; boil for about five minutes, pour into a basin, and use,
when cold, in the same manner as the other.

2506. This makes an admirable food, at once nutritious and
strengthening. When tops-and-bottoms or rusks are used, the quantity of
the egg may be reduced, or altogether omitted.

2507. Semolina, or manna croup, being in little hard grains, like a fine
millet-seed, must be boiled for some time, and the milk, sugar, and egg
added to it on the fire, and boiled for a few minutes longer, and, when
cold, used as the other preparations.

2508. Many persons entertain a belief that cow's milk is hurtful to
infants, and, consequently, refrain from giving it; but this is a very
great mistake, for both sugar and milk should form a large portion of
every meal an infant takes.


TEETHING AND CONVULSIONS.

Fits, &c., the consequence of Dentition, and how to be treated.--The
number and order of the Teeth, and manner in which they are cut.--First
and Second Set.

2509. About three months after birth, the infant's troubles may be said
to begin; teeth commence forming in the gums, causing pain and
irritation in the mouth, and which, but for the saliva it causes to flow
so abundantly, would be attended with very serious consequences. At the
same time the mother frequently relaxes in the punctuality of the
regimen imposed on her, and, taking some unusual or different food,
excites diarrhoea or irritation in her child's stomach, which not
unfrequently results in a rash on the skin, or slight febrile symptoms,
which, if not subdued in their outset, superinduce some more serious
form of infantine disease. But, as a general rule, the teeth are the
primary cause of much of the child's sufferings, in consequence of the
state of nervous and functional irritation into which the system is
thrown by their formation and progress out of the jaw and through the
gums. We propose beginning this branch of our subject with that most
fertile source of an infant's suffering--

Teething.

2510. That this subject may he better understood by the nurse and
mother, and the reason of the constitutional disturbance that, to a
greater or less degree, is experienced by all infants, may be made
intelligible to those who have the care of children, we shall commence
by giving a brief account of the formation of the teeth, the age at
which they appear in the mouth, and the order in which they pierce the
gums. The organs of mastication in the adult consist of 32 distinct
teeth, 16 in either jaw; being, in fact, a double set. The teeth are
divided into 4 incisors, 2 canine, 4 first and second grinders, and 6
molars; but in childhood the complement or first set consists of only
twenty, and these only make their appearance as the development of the
frame indicates the requirement of a different kind of food for the
support of the system. At birth some of the first-cut teeth are found in
the cavities of the jaw, in a very small and rudimentary form; but this
is by no means universal. About the third month, the jaws, which are
hollow and divided into separate cells, begin to expand, making room for
the slowly developing teeth, which, arranged for beauty and economy of
space lengthwise, gradually turn their tops upwards, piercing the gum by
their edges, which, being sharp, assist in cutting a passage through the
soft parts. There is no particular period at which children cut their
teeth, some being remarkably early, and others equally late. The
earliest age that we have ever ourselves known as a reliable fact was,
_six weeks_. Such peculiarities are generally hereditary, and, as in
this case, common to a whole family. The two extremes are probably
represented by six and sixteen months. Pain and drivelling are the
usual, but by no means the general, indications of teething.

2511. About the sixth month the gums become tense and swollen,
presenting a red, shiny appearance, while the salivary glands pour out
an unusual quantity of saliva. After a time, a white line or round spot
is observed on the top of one part of the gums, and the sharp edge of
the tooth may be felt beneath if the finger is gently pressed on the
part. Through these white spots the teeth burst their way in the
following order:--

2512. Two incisors in the lower jaw are first cut, though, in general,
some weeks elapse between the appearance of the first and the advent of
the second. The next teeth cut are the four incisors of the upper jaw.
The next in order are the remaining two incisors of the bottom, one on
each side, then two top and two bottom on each side, but not joining the
incisors; and lastly, about the eighteenth or twentieth month, the four
eye teeth, filling up the space left between the side teeth and the
incisors; thus completing the infant's set of sixteen. Sometimes at the
same period, but more frequently some months later, four more double
teeth slowly make their appearance, one on each side of each jaw,
completing the entire series of the child's first set of twenty teeth.
It is asserted that a child, while cutting its teeth, should either
dribble excessively, vomit after every meal, or be greatly relaxed.
Though one or other, or all of these at once, may attend a case of
teething, it by no means follows that any one of them should accompany
this process of nature, though there can be no doubt that where the pain
consequent on the unyielding state of the gums, and the firmness of the
skin that covers the tooth, is severe, a copious discharge of saliva
acts beneficially in saving the head, and also in guarding the child
from those dangerous attacks of fits to which many children in their
teething are liable.

2513. _The Symptoms_ that generally indicate the cutting of teeth, in
addition to the inflamed and swollen state of the gums, and increased
flow of saliva, are the restless and peevish state of the child, the
hands being thrust into the mouth, and the evident pleasure imparted by
rubbing the finger or nail gently along the gum; the lips are often
excoriated, and the functions of the stomach or bowels are out of order.
In severe cases, occurring in unhealthy or scrofulous children, there
are, from the first, considerable fever, disturbed sleep, fretfulness,
diarrhoea, rolling of the eyes, convulsive startings, laborious
breathing, coma, or unnatural sleep, ending, unless the head is quickly
relieved, in death.

2514. The _Treatment_ in all cases of painful teething is remarkably
simple, and consists in keeping the body cool by mild aperient
medicines, allaying the irritation in the gums by friction with a rough
ivory ring or a stale crust of broad, and when the head, lungs, or any
organ is overloaded or unduly excited, to use the hot bath, and by
throwing the body into a perspiration, equalize the circulation, and
relieve the system from the danger of a fatal termination.

2515. Besides these, there is another means, but that must be employed
by a medical man; namely, scarifying the gums--an operation always safe,
and which, when judiciously performed, and at a critical opportunity,
will often snatch the child from the grasp of death.

2516. There are few subjects on which mothers have often formed such
strong and mistaken opinions as on that of lancing an infant's gums,
some rather seeing their child go into fits--and by the unrelieved
irritation endangering inflammation of the brain, water on the head,
rickets, and other lingering affections--than permit the surgeon to
afford instant relief by cutting through the hard skin, which, like a
bladder over the stopper of a bottle, effectually confines the tooth to
the socket, and prevents it piercing the soft, spongy substance of the
gum. This prejudice is a great error, as we shall presently show; for,
so far from hurting the child, there is nothing that will so soon
convert an infant's tears into smiles as scarifying the gums in painful
teething; that is, if effectually done, and the skin of the tooth be
divided.

2517. Though teething is a natural function, and to an infant in perfect
health should be unproductive of pain, yet in general it is not only a
fertile cause of suffering, but often a source of alarm and danger; the
former, from irritation in the stomach and bowels, deranging the whole
economy of the system, and the latter, from coma and fits, that may
excite alarm in severe cases; and the danger, that eventuates in some
instances, from organic disease of the head or spinal marrow.

2518. We shall say nothing in this place of "rickets," or "water on the
head," which are frequent results of dental irritation, but proceed to
finish our remarks on the treatment of teething. Though strongly
advocating the lancing of the gums in teething, and when there are any
severe head-symptoms, yet it should never be needlessly done, or before
being satisfied that the tooth is fully formed, and is out of the
socket, and under the gum. When assured on these points, the gum should
be cut lengthwise, and from the top of the gum downwards to the tooth,
in an horizontal direction, thus----, and for about half an inch in
length. The operation is then to be repeated in a transverse direction,
cutting across the gum, in the centre of the first incision, and forming
a cross, thus +. The object of this double incision is to insure a
retraction of the cut parts, and leave an open way for the tooth to
start from--an advantage not to be obtained when only one incision is
made; for unless the tooth immediately follows the lancing, the opening
reunites, and the operation has to be repeated. That this operation is
very little or not at all painful, is evidenced by the suddenness with
which the infant falls asleep after the lancing, and awakes in
apparently perfect health, though immediately before the use of the
gum-lancet, the child may have been shrieking or in convulsions.


Convulsions, or Infantine Fits.

2519. From their birth till after teething, infants are more or less
subject or liable to sudden fits, which often, without any assignable
cause, will attack the child in a moment, and while in the mother's
arms; and which, according to their frequency, and the age and strength
of the infant, are either slight or dangerous.

2520. Whatever may have been the remote cause, the immediate one is some
irritation of the nervous system, causing convulsions, or an effusion to
the head, inducing coma. In the first instance, the infant cries out
with a quick, short scream, rolls up its eyes, arches its body
backwards, its arms become bent and fixed, and the fingers parted; the
lips and eyelids assume a dusky leaden colour, while the face remains
pale, and the eyes open, glassy, or staring. This condition may or may
not be attended with muscular twitchings of the mouth, and convulsive
plunges of the arms. The fit generally lasts from one to three minutes,
when the child recovers with a sigh, and the relaxation of the body. In
the other case, the infant is attacked at once with total insensibility
and relaxation of the limbs, coldness of the body and suppressed
breathing; the eyes, when open, being dilated, and presenting a dim
glistening appearance; the infant appearing, for the moment, to be dead.

2521. _Treatment._-The first step in either case is, to immerse the
child in a hot bath up to the chin; or if sufficient hot water cannot be
procured to cover the body, make a hip-bath of what can be obtained;
and, while the left hand supports the child in a sitting or recumbent
position, with the right scoop up the water, and run it over the chest
of the patient. When sufficient water can be obtained, the spine should
be briskly rubbed while in the bath; when this cannot be done, lay the
child on the knees, and with the fingers dipped in brandy, rub the whole
length of the spine vigorously for two or three minutes, and when
restored to consciousness, give occasionally a teaspoonful of weak
brandy and water or wine and water.

2522. An hour after the bath, it may be necessary to give an aperient
powder, possibly also to repeat the dose for once or twice every three
hours; in which case the following prescription is to be employed. Take
of

  Powdered scammony       6 grains.
  Grey powder             6 grains.
  Antimonial powder       4 grains.
  Lump sugar             20 grains.

Mix thoroughly, and divide into three powders, which are to be taken as
advised for an infant one year old; for younger or weakly infants,
divide into four powders, and give as the other. For thirst and febrile
symptoms, give drinks of barley-water, or cold water, and every three
hours put ten to fifteen drops of spirits of sweet nitre in a
dessert-spoonful of either beverage.


THRUSH, AND ITS TREATMENT.

2523. This is a disease to which infants are peculiarly subject, and in
whom alone it may be said to be a disease; for when thrush shows itself
in adult or advanced life, it is not as a disease proper, but only as a
symptom, or accessory, of some other ailment, generally of a chronic
character, and should no more be classed as a separate affection than
the petechae, or dark-coloured spots that appear in malignant measles,
may be considered a distinct affection.

2524. Thrush is a disease of the follicles of the mucous membrane of the
alimentary canal, whereby there are formed small vesicles, or bladders,
filled with a thick mucous secretion, which, bursting, discharge their
contents, and form minute ulcers in the centre of each vessel. To make
this formal but unavoidable description intelligible, we must beg the
reader's patience while we briefly explain terms that may appear to many
so unmeaning, and make the pathology of thrush fully familiar.

2525. The whole digestive canal, of which the stomach and bowels are
only a part, is covered, from the lips, eyes, and ears downwards, with a
thin glairy tissue, like the skin that lines the inside of an egg,
called the mucous membrane; this membrane is dotted all over, in a state
of health, by imperceptible points, called follicles, through which the
saliva, or mucous secreted by the membrane, is poured out.

2526. These follicles, or little glands, then, becoming enlarged, and
filled with a congealed fluid, constitute thrush in its first stage; and
when the child's lips and mouth appear a mass of small pearls, then, as
these break and discharge, the second stage, or that of ulceration, sets
in.

2527. _Symptoms._--Thrush is generally preceded by considerable
irritation, by the child crying and fretting, showing more than ordinary
redness of the lips and nostrils, hot fetid breath, with relaxed bowels,
and dark feculent evacuations; the water is scanty and high-coloured;
whilst considerable difficulty in swallowing, and much thirst, are the
other symptoms, which a careful observation of the little patient makes
manifest.

2528. The situation and character of thrush show at once that the cause
is some irritation of the mucous membrane, and can proceed only from the
nature and quality of the food. Before weaning, this must be looked for
in the mother, and the condition of the milk; after that time, in the
crude and indigestible nature of the food given. In either case, this
exciting cause of the disease must be at once stopped. When it proceeds
from the mother, it is always best to begin by physicking the infant
through the parent; that is to say, let the parent first take the
medicine, which will sufficiently affect the child through the milk:
this plan has the double object of benefiting the patient and, at the
same time, correcting the state of the mother, and improving the
condition of her milk. In the other case, when the child is being fed by
hand, then proceed by totally altering the style of aliment given, and
substituting farinaceous food, custards, blanc-mange, and ground-rice
puddings.

2529. As an aperient medicine for the mother, the best thing she can
take is a dessert-spoonful of carbonate of magnesia once or twice a day,
in a cup of cold water; and every second day, for two or three times, an
aperient pill.

2530. As the thrush extends all over the mouth, throat, stomach, and
bowels, the irritation to the child from such an extent of diseased
surface is proportionately great, and before attempting to act on such a
tender surface by opening medicine, the better plan is to soothe by an
emollient mixture; and, for that purpose, let the following be prepared.
Take of

  Castor oil                          2 drachms.
  Sugar                               1 drachm.
  Mucilage, or powdered gum Arabic    half a drachm.

Triturate till the oil is incorporated, then add slowly--

  Mint-water            One ounce and a half
  Laudanum              Ten drops

Half a teaspoonful three times a day, to an infant from one to two years
old; a teaspoonful from two to three years old; and a dessertspoonful at
any age over that time. After two days' use of the mixture, one of the
following powders should be given twice a day, accompanied with one dose
daily of the mixture:--

  Grey powder              20 grains.
  Powdered rhubarb         15 grains.
  Scammony                 10 grains. Mix.

Divide into twelve powders, for one year; eight powders, from one to
two; and six powders, from two to six years old. After that age, double
the strength, by giving the quantity of two powders at once.

2531. It is sometimes customary to apply borax and honey to the mouth
for thrush; but it is always better to treat the disease
constitutionally rather than locally. The first steps, therefore, to be
adopted are, to remove or correct the exciting cause--the mother's milk
or food; allay irritation by a warm bath and the castor-oil mixture,
followed by and conjoined with the powders.

2532. To those, however, who wish to try the honey process, the best
preparation to use is the following:-Rub down one ounce of honey with
two drachms of tincture of myrrh, and apply it to the lips and mouth
every four or six hours.

2533. It is a popular belief, and one most devoutly cherished by many
nurses and elderly persons, that everybody must, at some time of their
life, between birth and death, have an attack of thrush, and if not in
infancy, or prime of life, it will surely attack them on their
death-bed, in a form more malignant than if the patient had been
affected with the malady earlier; the black thrush with which they are
then reported to be affected being, in all probability, the petechae or
purple spots that characterize the worst form, and often the last stage,
of typhoid fever.

2534. In general, very little medicine is needed in this disease of the
thrush--an alterative powder, or a little magnesia, given once or twice,
being all, with the warm bath, that, in the great majority of cases, is
needed to restore the mucous membrane to health. As thrush is caused by
an excess of heat, or over-action in the lining membrane of the stomach
and bowels, whatever will counteract this state, by throwing the heat on
the surface, must materially benefit, if not cure, the disease: and that
means every mother has at hand, in the form of a _warm bath_. After the
application of this, a little magnesia to correct the acidity existing
along the surface of the mucous membrane, is often all that is needed to
throw the system into such a state as will effect its own cure. This
favourable state is indicated by an excessive flow of saliva, or what is
called "dribbling," and by a considerable amount of relaxation of the
bowels-a condition that must not be mistaken for diarrhoea, and checked
as if a disease, but rather, for the day or two it continues, encouraged
as a critical evacuant.

2535. Should there be much debility in the convalescence, half a
teaspoonful of stee wine, given twice a day in a little barley-water,
will be found sufficient for all the purposes of a tonic. This, with the
precaution of changing the child's food, or, when it lives on the
mother, of correcting the quality of the milk by changing her own diet,
and, by means of an antacid or aperient, improving the state of the
secretion. Such is all the treatment that this disease in general
requires.

2536. The class of diseases we are now approaching are the most
important, both in their pathological features and in their consequences
on the constitution, of any group or individual disease that assails the
human body; and though more frequently attacking the undeveloped frame
of childhood, are yet by no means confined to that period. These are
called Eruptive Fevers, and embrace chicken-pox, cow-pox, small-pox,
scarlet fever, measles, milary fever, and erysipelas, or St. Anthony's
fire.

2537. The general character of all these is, that they are contagious,
and, as a general rule, attack a person only once in his lifetime; that
their chain of diseased actions always begins with fever, and that,
after an interval of from one to four days, the fever is followed by an
eruption of the skin.


CHICKEN-POX, OR GLASS-POX; AND COW-POX, OR VACCINATION.

2538. CHICKEN-POX, or GLASS-POX, may, in strict propriety, be classed as
a mild variety of small-pox, presenting all the mitigated symptoms of
that formidable disease. Among many physicians it is, indeed, classed as
small-pox, and not a separate disease; but as this is not the place to
discuss such questions, and as we profess to give only facts, the result
of our own practical experience, we shall treat this affection of
glass-pox or chicken-pox, as we ourselves have found it, as a distinct
and separate disease.

2539. Chicken-pox is marked by all the febrile symptoms presented by
small-pox, with this difference, that, in the case of chicken-pox, each
symptom is particularly slight. The heat of body is much less acute, and
the principal symptoms are difficulty of breathing, headache, coated
tongue, and nausea, which sometimes amounts to vomiting. After a term of
general irritability, heat, and restlessness, about the fourth day, or
between the third and fourth, an eruption makes its appearance over the
face, neck, and body, in its first two stages closely resembling
small-pox, with this especial difference, that whereas the pustules in
small-pox have _flat_ and _depressed_ centres--an infallible
characteristic of small-pox--the pustules in chicken-pox remain
_globular_, while the fluid in them changes from a transparent white to
a straw-coloured liquid, which begins to exude and disappear about the
eighth or ninth day, and, in mild cases, by the twelfth desquamates, or
peels off entirely.

2540. There can be no doubt that chicken-pox, like small-pox, is
contagious, and under certain states of the atmosphere becomes endemic.
Parents should, therefore, avoid exposing young children to the danger
of infection by taking them where it is known to exist, as chicken-pox,
in weakly constitutions, or in very young children, may superinduce
small-pox, the one disease either running concurrently with the other,
or discovering itself as the other declines. This, of course, is a
condition that renders the case very hazardous, as the child has to
struggle against two diseases at once, or before it has recruited
strength from the attack of the first.

2541. _Treatment_.--In all ordinary cases of chicken-pox--and it is very
seldom it assumes any complexity--the whole treatment resolves itself
into the use of the warm bath, and a course of gentle aperients. The
bath should be used when the oppression of the lungs renders the
breathing difficult, or the heat and dryness of the skin, with the
undeveloped rash beneath the surface, shows the necessity for its use.

2542. As the pustules in chicken-pox very rarely run to the state of
suppuration, as in the other disease, there is no fear of _pitting_ or
disfigurement, except in very severe forms, which, however, happen so
seldom as not to merit apprehension. When the eruption subsides,
however, the face may be washed with elder-flower water, and the routine
followed which is prescribed in the convalescent state of small-pox.

2543. COW-POX, properly speaking, is an artificial disease, established
in a healthy body as a prophylactic, or preventive agent, against the
more serious attack of small-pox, and is merely that chain of slight
febrile symptoms and local irritation, consequent on the specific action
of the lymph of the vaccination, in its action on the circulating system
of the body. This is not the place to speak of the benefits conferred on
mankind by the discovery of vaccination, not only as the preserver of
the human features from a most loathsome disfigurement, but as a
sanitary agent in the prolongation of life.

2544. Fortunately the State has now made it imperative on all parents to
have their children vaccinated before, or by the end of, the twelfth
week; thus doing away, as far as possible, with the danger to public
health proceeding from the ignorance or prejudice of those parents whose
want of information on the subject makes them object to the employment
of this specific preventive; for though vaccination has been proved
_not_ to be _always_ an infallible guard against small-pox, the attack
is always much lighter, should it occur, and is seldom, if indeed
_ever_, fatal after the precaution of vaccination. The best time to
vaccinate a child is after the sixth and before the twelfth week, if it
is in perfect health, but still earlier if small-pox is prevalent, and
any danger exists of the infant taking the disease. It is customary, and
always advisable, to give the child a mild aperient powder one or two
days before inserting the lymph in the arm; and should measles, scarlet
fever, or any other disease arise during the progress of the pustule,
the child, when recovered, should be _re-vaccinated_, and the lymph
taken from its arm on no account used for vaccinating purposes.

2545. The disease of cow-pox generally takes twenty days to complete its
course; in other words, the maturity and declension of the pustule takes
that time to fulfil its several changes. The mode of vaccination is
either to insert the matter, or lymph, taken from a healthy child, under
the cuticle in several places on both arms, or, which is still better,
to make three slight scratches, or abrasions, with a lancet on one arm
in this manner, ,,",, and work into the irritated parts the lymph,
allowing the arm to dry thoroughly before putting down the infant's
sleeve; by this means absorption is insured, and the unnecessary pain of
several pustules on both arms avoided. No apparent change is observable
by the eye for several days; indeed, not till the fourth, in many cases,
is there any evidence of a vesicle; about the fifth day, however, a pink
areola, or circle, is observed round one or all of the places,
surrounding a small pearly vesicle or bladder. This goes on deepening in
hue till the seventh or eighth day, when the vesicle is about an inch in
diameter, with a depressed centre; on the ninth the edges are elevated,
and the surrounding part hard and inflamed. The disease is now at its
height, and the pustule should be opened, if not for the purpose of
vaccinating other children, to allow the escape of the lymph, and subdue
the inflammatory action. After the twelfth day the centre is covered by
a brown scab, and the colour of the swelling becomes darker, gradually
declining in hardness and colour till the twentieth, when the scab
falls, off, leaving a small pit, or cicatrix, to mark the seat of the
disease, and for life prove a certificate of successful vaccination.

2546. In some children the inflammation and swelling of the arm is
excessive, and extremely painful, and the fever, about the ninth or
tenth day, very high; the pustule, therefore, at that time, should
sometimes be opened, the arm fomented every two hours with a warm bread
poultice, and an aperient powder given to the infant.


MEASLES AND SCARLET FEVER, WITH THE TREATMENT OF BOTH.

Measles.

2547. This much-dreaded disease, which forms the next subject in our
series of infantine diseases, and which entails more evils on the health
of childhood than any other description of physical suffering to which
that age of life is subject, may be considered more an affection of the
venous circulation, tending to general and local congestion, attended
with a diseased condition of the blood, than either as a fever or an
inflammation; and though generally classed before or after scarlet
fever, is, in its pathology and treatment, irrespective of its
after-consequences, as distinct and opposite as one disease can well be
from another.

4548. As we have already observed, measles are always characterized by
the running at the nose and eyes, and great oppression of breathing; so,
in the mode of treatment, two objects are to be held especially in view;
first, to unload the congested state of the lungs,--the cause of the
oppressed breathing; and, secondly, to act vigorously, both during the
disease and afterwards, on the bowels. At the same time it cannot be too
strongly borne in mind, that though the patient in measles should on no
account be kept unduly hot, more care than in most infantine complaints
should be taken to guard the body from _cold_, or any abrupt changes of
temperature. With these special observations, we shall proceed to give a
description of the disease, as recognized by its usual--

2549. _Symptoms_, which commence with cold chills and flushes,
lassitude, heaviness, pain in the head, and drowsiness, cough,
hoarseness, and extreme difficulty of breathing, frequent sneezing,
deduction or running at the eyes and nose, nausea, sometimes vomiting,
thirst, a furred tongue; the pulse throughout is quick, and sometimes
full and soft, at others hard and small, with other indications of an
inflammatory nature.

2550. On the third day, small red points make their appearance, first on
the face and neck, gradually extending over the upper and lower part of
the body. On the fifth day, the vivid red of the eruption changes into a
brownish hue; and, in two or three days more, the rash entirely
disappears, leaving a loose powdery desquamation on the skin, which rubs
off like dandriff. At this stage of the disease a diarrhoea frequently
comes on, which, being what is called "critical," should never be
checked, unless seriously severe. Measles sometimes assume a typhoid or
malignant character, in which form the symptoms are all greatly
exaggerated, and the case from the first becomes both doubtful and
dangerous. In this condition the eruption comes out sooner, and only in
patches; and often, after showing for a few hours, suddenly recedes,
presenting, instead of the usual florid red, a dark purple or blackish
hue; a dark brown fur forms on the gums and mouth, the breathing becomes
laborious, delirium supervenes, and, if unrelieved, is followed by coma;
a fetid diarrhoea takes place, and the patient sinks under the congested
state of the lungs and the oppressed functions of the brain.

2551. The unfavourable symptoms in measles are a high degree of fever,
the excessive heat and dryness of the skin, hurried and short breathing,
and a particularly hard pulse. The sequels, or after-consequences, of
measles are, croup, bronchitis, mesenteric disease, abscesses behind the
ear, ophthalmia, and glandular swellings in other parts of the body.

2552. _Treatment_.--In the first place, the patient should be kept in a
cool room, the temperature of which must be regulated to suit the
child's feelings of comfort, and the diet adapted to the strictest
principles of abstinence. When the inflammatory symptoms are severe,
bleeding, in some form, is often necessary, though, when adopted, it
must be in the _first stage_ of the disease; and, if the lungs are the
apprehended seat of the inflammation, two or more leeches, according to
the age and strength of the patient, must be applied to the upper part
of the chest, followed by a small blister; or the blister may be
substituted for the leeches, the attendant bearing in mind, that the
benefit effected by the blister can always be considerably augmented by
plunging the feet into very hot water about a couple of hours after
applying the blister, and kept in the water for about two minutes. And
let it further be remembered, that this immersion of the feet in hot
water may be adopted at any time or stage of the disease; and that,
whenever the _head_ or _lungs_ are oppressed, relief will _always_
accrue from its sudden and brief employment. When the symptoms commence
with much shivering, and the skin early assumes a hot, dry character,
the appearance of the rash will be facilitated, and all the other
symptoms rendered milder, if the patient is put into a warm bath, and
kept in the water for about three minutes. Or, where that is not
convenient, the following process, which will answer quite as well, can
be substituted:--Stand the child, naked, in a tub, and, having first
prepared several jugs of sufficiently warm water, empty them, in quick
succession, over the patient's shoulders and body; immediately wrap in a
hot blanket, and put the child to bed till it rouses from the sleep that
always follows the effusion or bath. This agent, by lowering the
temperature of the skin, and opening the pores, producing a natural
perspiration, and unloading the congested state of the lungs, in most
cases does away entirely with the necessity both for leeches and a
blister. Whether any of these external means have been employed or not,
the first internal remedies should commence with a series of aperient
powders and a saline mixture, as prescribed in the following
formularies; at the same time, as a beverage to quench the thirst, let a
quantity of barley-water be made, slightly acidulated by the juice of an
orange, and partially sweetened by some sugar-candy; and of which, when
properly made and cold, let the patient drink as often as thirst, or the
dryness of the mouth, renders necessary.

2553. _Aperient Powders_.--Take of scammony and jalap, each 24 grains;
grey powder and powdered antimony, each 18 grains. Mix and divide into
12 powders, if for a child between two and four years of age; into 8
powders, if for a child between four and eight years of ago; and into 6
powders for between eight and twelve years. One powder to be given, in a
little jelly or sugar-and-water, every three or four hours, according to
the severity of the symptoms.

2554. _Saline Mixture_.--Take of mint-water, 6 ounces; powdered nitre,
20 grains; antimonial wine, 3 drachms; spirits of nitre, 2 drachms;
syrup of saffron, 2 drachms. Mix. To children under three years, give a
teaspoonful every two hours; from that age to six, a dessertspoonful at
the same times; and a tablespoonful every three or four hours to
children between six and twelve.

2555. The object of these aperient powders is to keep up a steady but
gentle action on the bowels; but, whenever it seems necessary to
administer a stronger dose, and effect a brisk action on the digestive
organs,--a course particularly imperative towards the close of the
disease,--two of these powders given at once, according to the age, will
be found to produce that effect; that is, two of the twelve for a child
under four years, and two of the eight, and two of the six, according to
the age of the patient.

2556. When the difficulty of breathing becomes oppressive, as it
generally does towards night, a hot bran poultice, laid on the chest,
will be always found highly beneficial. The diet throughout must be
light, and consist of farinaceous food, such as rice and sago puddings,
beef-tea and toast; and not till convalescence sets in should hard or
animal food be given.

2557. When measles assume the malignant form, the advice just given must
be broken through; food of a nutritious and stimulating character should
be at once substituted, and administered in conjunction with wine, and
even spirits, and the disease regarded and treated as a case of typhus.
But, as this form of measles is not frequent, and, if occurring, hardly
likely to be treated without assistance, it is unnecessary to enter on
the minutiae of its practice here. What we have prescribed, in almost
all cases, will be found sufficient to meet every emergency, without
resorting to a multiplicity of agents.

2558. The great point to remember in measles is, not to give up the
treatment with the apparent subsidence of the disease, as the
_after-consequences_ of measles are too often more serious, and to be
more dreaded, than the measles themselves. To guard against this danger,
and thoroughly purify the system, after the subsidence of all the
symptoms of the disease, a corrective course of medicine, and a regimen
of exercise, should be adopted for some weeks after the cure of the
disease. To effect this, an active aperient powder should be given every
three or four clays, with a daily dose of the subjoined tonic mixture,
with as much exercise, by walking, running after a hoop, or other bodily
exertion, as the strength of the child and the state of the atmosphere
will admit, the patient being, wherever possible, removed to a purer air
as soon as convalescence warrants the change.

2559. _Tonic Mixture_.--Take of infusion of rose-leaves, 6 ounces;
quinine, 8 grains; diluted sulphuric acid, 15 drops. Mix. Dose, from
half a teaspoonful up to a dessertspoonful, once a day, according to the
ago of the patient.


Scarlatina, or Scarlet Fever.

2560. Though professional accuracy has divided this disease into several
forms, we shall keep to the one disease most generally mot with, the
common or simple scarlet fever, which, in all cases, is characterized by
an excessive heat on the skin, sore throat, and a peculiar speckled
appearance of the tongue.

2561. _Symptoms_.--Cold chills, shivering, nausea, thirst, hot skin,
quick pulse, with difficulty of swallowing; the tongue is coated,
presenting through its fur innumerable specks, the elevated papillae of
the tongue, which gives it the speckled character, that, if not the
invariable sign of scarlet fever, is only met with in cases closely
analogous to that disease. Between the _second_ and __third_ day, but
most frequently on the _third_, a bright red efflorescence breaks out in
patches on the face, neck, and back, from which it extends over the
trunk and extremities, always showing thicker and deeper in colour
wherever there is any pressure, such as the elbows, back, and hips; when
the eruption is well out, the skin presents the appearance of a boiled
lobster-shell. At first, the skin is smooth, but, as the disease
advances, perceptible roughness is apparent, from the elevation of the
rash, or, more properly, the pores of the skin. On the _fifth_ and
_sixth_ days the eruption begins to decline, and by the _eighth_ has
generally entirely disappeared. During the whole of this period, there
is, more or less, constant sore throat.

2562. The _Treatment_ of scarlet fever is, in general, very simple.
Where the heat is great, and the eruption comes out with difficulty, or
recedes as soon as it appears, the body should be sponged with cold
vinegar-and-water, or tepid water, as in measles, poured over the chest
and body, the patient being, as in that disease, wrapped in a blanket
and put to bed, and the same powders and mixture ordered in measles
administered, with the addition of a constant hot bran poultice round
the throat, which should be continued from the first symptom till a day
or two after the declension of the rash. The same low diet and cooling
drink, with the same general instructions, are to be obeyed in this as
in the former disease.

2563. When the fever runs high in the first stage, and there is much
nausea, before employing the effusions of water, give the patient an
emetic, of equal, parts of ipecacuanha and antimonial wine, in doses of
from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful, according to age. By these means,
nine out of every ten cases of scarlatina may be safely and
expeditiously cured, especially if the temperature of the patient's room
is kept at an even standard of about sixty degrees.


HOOPING-COUGH, CROUP, AND DIARRHOEA, WITH THEIR MODE OF TREATMENT.

Hooping-Cough.

2564. THIS is purely a spasmodic disease, and is only infectious through
the faculty of imitation, a habit that all children are remarkably apt
to fall into; and even where adults have contracted hooping-cough, it
has been from the same cause, and is as readily accounted for, on the
principle of imitation, as that the gaping of one person will excite or
predispose a whole party to follow the same spasmodic example. If any
one associates for a few days with a person who stammers badly, he will
find, when released from his company, that the sequence of his
articulation and the fluency of his speech are, for a time, gone; and it
will be a matter of constant vigilance, and some difficulty, to overcome
the evil of so short an association. The manner in which a number of
school-girls will, one after another, fall into a fit on beholding one
of their number attacked with epilepsy, must be familiar to many. These
several facts lead us to a juster notion of how to treat this spasmodic
disease. Every effort should, therefore, be directed, mentally and
physically, to break the chain of nervous action, on which the
continuance of the cough depends.

2565. _Symptoms._--Hooping-cough comes on with a slight oppression of
breathing, thirst, quick pulse, hoarseness, and a hard, dry cough. This
state may exist without any change from one to two or three weeks before
the peculiar feature of the disease-the _hoop_-sets in. As the
characteristics of this cough are known to all, it is unnecessary to
enter here, physiologically, on the subject. We shall, therefore, merely
remark that the frequent vomiting and bleeding at the mouth or nose are
favourable signs, and proceed to the

2566. _Treatment_, which should consist in keeping up a state of nausea
and vomiting. For this purpose, give the child doses of ipecacuanha and
antimonial wines, in equal parts, and quantities varying from half to
one and a half teaspoonful once a day, or, when the expectoration is
hard and difficult of expulsion, giving the following cough mixture
every four hours. Take of

  Syrup of squills            1/2 ounce.
  Antimonial wine               1 ounce.
  Laudanum                     15 drops.
  Syrup of Toulou             2 drachms.
  Water                     1-1/2 ounce.

Mix. The dose is from half a spoonful to a dessertspoonful. When the
cough is urgent, the warm bath is to be used, and either one or two
leeches applied over the breastbone, or else a small blister laid on the
lower part of the throat.

2567. Such is the medical treatment of hooping-cough; but there is a
moral regimen, based on the nature of the disease, which should never be
omitted. And, on the principle that a sudden start or diversion of the
mind will arrest a person in the act of sneezing or gaping, so the like
means should be adopted with the hooping-cough patient; and, in the
first stage, before the _hooping_ has been added, the parent should
endeavour to break the paroxysm of the cough by abruptly attracting the
patient's attention, and thus, if possible, preventing the cough from
reaching that height when the ingulp of air gives the hoop or crow that
marks the disease; but when once that symptom has set in, it becomes
still more necessary to endeavour, by even measures of intimidation, to
break the spasmodic chain of the cough. Exercise in the open air, when
dry, is also requisite, and charge of scene and air in all cases is of
absolute necessity, and may be adopted at any stage of the disease.

Croup.

2568. This is by far the most formidable and fatal of all the diseases
to which infancy and childhood are liable, and is purely an inflammatory
affection, attacking that portion of the mucous membrane lining the
windpipe and bronchial tubes, and from the effect of which a false or
loose membrane is formed along the windpipe, resembling in appearance
the finger of a glove suspended in the passage, and, consequently,
terminating the life of the patient by suffocation; for, as the lower
end grows together and becomes closed, no air can enter the lungs, and
the child dies choked. All dull, fat, and heavy children are peculiarly
predisposed to this disease, and those with short necks and who make a
wheezing noise in their natural breathing. Croup is always sudden in its
attack, and rapid in its career, usually proving fatal within three
days; most frequently commences in the night, and generally attacking
children between the ages of three and ten years. Mothers should,
therefore, be on their guard who have children predisposed to this
disease, and immediately resort to the means hereafter advised.

2569. _Symptoms_.--Languor and restlessness, hoarseness, wheezing, and
short, dry cough, with occasional rattling in the throat during sleep,
the child often plucking at its throat with its fingers; difficulty of
breathing, which quickly becomes hard and laboured, causing great
anxiety of the countenance, and the veins of the neck to swell and
become knotted; the voice in speaking acquires a sharp, crowing, or
croupy sound, while the inspirations have a harsh, metallic intonation.
After a few hours, a quantity of thick, ropy mucus is thrown out,
hanging about the mouth, and causing suffocating fits of coughing to
expel.

2570. Treatment.--Place the child immediately in a hot bath up to the
throat; and, on removal from the water, give an emetic of the antimonial
or ipecacuanha wine, and, when the vomiting has subsided, lay a long
blister down the front of the throat, and administer one of the
following powders every twenty minutes to a child from three to six
years of age.

2571. Take of calomel, 12 grains; tartar emetic, 2 grains; lump sugar,
30 grains. Mix accurately, and divide into 12 powders. For a child from
six to twelve years, divide into 6 powders, and give one every
half-hour.

2572. Should the symptoms remain unabated after a few hours, apply one
or two leeches to the throat, and put mustard poultices to the foot and
thighs, retaining them about eight minutes; and, in extreme cases, a
mustard poultice to the spine between the shoulders, and at the same
time rub mercurial ointment into the armpits and the angles of the jaws.

2573. Such is a vigorous and reliable system of treatment in severe
cases of croup; but, in the milder and more general form, the following
abridgment will, in all probability, be all that will be
required:--First, the hot bath; second, the emetic; third, a mustard
plaster round the throat for five minutes; fourth, the powders; fifth,
another emetic in six hours, if needed, and the powders continued
without intermission while the urgency of the symptoms continues. When
relief has been obtained, these are to be discontinued, and a dose of
senna tea given to act on the bowels.


Diarrhoea.

2574. The diarrhoea with which children are so frequently affected,
especially in infancy, should demand the nurse's immediate attention,
and when the secretion, from its clayey colour, indicates an absence of
bile, a powder composed of 3 grains of grey powder and 1 grain of
rhubarb, should be given twice, with an interval of four hours between
each dose, to a child from one to two years, and, a day or two
afterwards, an aperient powder containing the same ingredients and
quantities, with the addition of 2 or 3 grains of scammony. For the
relaxation consequent on an overloaded stomach, or acidity in the
bowels, a little magnesia dissolved in milk should be employed two or
three times a day.

2575. When much griping and pain attend the diarrhoea, half a
teaspoonful of Dalby's Carminative (the best of all patent medicines)
should be given, either with or without a small quantity of castor oil
to carry off the exciting cause.

2576. For any form of diarrhoea that, by excessive action, demands a
speedy correction, the most efficacious remedy that can be employed in
all ages and conditions of childhood is the tincture of Kino, of which
from 10 to 30 drops, mixed with a little sugar and water in a spoon, are
to be given every two or three hours till the undue action has been
checked. Often the change of diet to rice, milk, eggs, or the
substitution of animal for vegetable food, or _vice versa_, will correct
an unpleasant and almost chronic state of diarrhoea.

2577. A very excellent carminative powder for flatulent infants may be
kept in the house, and employed with advantage, whenever the child is in
pain or griped, by dropping 5 grains of oil of aniseed and 2 of
peppermint on half an ounce of lump sugar, and rubbing it in a mortar,
with a drachm of magnesia, into a fine powder. A small quantity of this
may be given in a little water at any time, and always with benefit.




THE DOCTOR.


CHAPTER XLIII.


2578. "Time," according to the old proverb, "is money;" and it may also,
in many cases, and with equal truthfulness, be said to be life; for a
few moments, in great emergencies, often turn the balance between
recovery and death. This applies more especially to all kinds of
poisoning, fits, submersion in water, or exposure to noxious gases; and
many accidents. If people knew how to act during the interval that must
necessarily elapse from the moment that a medical man is sent for until
he arrives, many lives might be saved, which now, unhappily, are lost.
Generally speaking, however, nothing is done--all is confusion and
fright; and the surgeon, on his arrival, finds that death has already
seized its victim, who, had his friends but known a few rough rules for
their guidance, might have been rescued. We shall, therefore, in a
series of papers, give such information as to the means to be employed
in event of accidents, injuries, &c., as, by the aid of a gentleman of
large professional experience, we are warranted in recommending.

List of Drugs, &c., necessary to carry out all Instructions.

2579. We append at once A LIST OF DRUGS, &c., and a few PRESCRIPTIONS
necessary to carry out all the instructions given in this series of
articles. It will be seen that they are few--they are not expensive; and
by laying in a little stock of them, our instructions will be of instant
value in all cases of accident, &c.--The drugs are--Antimonial Wine.
Antimonial Powder. Blister Compound. Blue Pill. Calomel. Carbonate of
Potash. Compound Iron Pills. Compound Extract of Colocynth. Compound
Tincture of Camphor. Epsom Salts. Goulard's Extract. Jalap in Powder.
Linseed Oil. Myrrh and Aloes Pills. Nitre. Oil of Turpentine. Opium,
powdered, and Laudanum. Sal Ammoniac. Senna Leaves. Soap Liniment,
Opodeldoc. Sweet Spirits of Nitre. Turner's Cerate.--To which should be
added: Common Adhesive Plaster. Isinglass Plaster. Lint. A pair of small
Scales with Weights. An ounce and a drachm Measure-glass. A Lancet. A
Probe. A pair of Forceps, and some curved Needles.

2580. The following PRESCRIPTIONS may be made up for a few shillings;
and, by keeping them properly labelled, and by referring to the remarks
on the treatment of any particular case, much suffering, and, perhaps,
some lives, may be saved.

2581. _Draught_.--Twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a
half of water. This draught is to be repeated in a quarter of an hour if
vomiting does not take place.

2582. _Clyster_.--Two tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of
warm gruel.

2583. _Liniments_.--1. Equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil well
mixed together. [Lime-water is made thus: Pour 6 pints of boiling water
upon 1/4 lb. of lime; mix well together, and when cool, strain the
liquid from off the lime which has fallen to the bottom, taking care to
get it as clear as possible.] 2. Compound camphor liniment.

2584. _Lotions_.--1. Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water.--2. Mix 1/2 oz. of
sal-ammoniac, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the same quantity of gin
or whisky, in half a pint of water.

2585. _Goulard Lotion_.--1 drachm of sugar of lead, 2 pints of
rain-water, 2 teaspoonfuls of spirits of wine. For inflammation of the
eyes or elsewhere:--The better way of making Goulard Lotion, if for the
eyes, is to add to 6 oz. of distilled water, or water that has been well
boiled, 1 drachm of the extract of lead.

2586. _Opodeldoc_.--This lotion being a valuable application for
sprains, lumbago, weakness of joints, &c., and it being difficult to
procure either pure or freshly made, we give a recipe for its
preparation. Dissolve 1 oz. of camphor in a pint of rectified spirits of
wine; then dissolve 4 oz. of hard white Spanish soap, scraped thin, in 4
oz. of oil of rosemary, and mix them together.

2587. _The Common Black Draught_.--Infusion of senna 10 drachms; Epsom
salts 10 drachms; tincture of senna, compound tincture of cardamums,
compound spirit of lavender, of each 1 drachm. Families who make black
draught in quantity, and wish to preserve it for some time without
spoiling, should add about 2 drachms of spirits of hartshorn to each
pint of the strained mixture, the use of this drug being to prevent its
becoming mouldy or decomposed. A simpler and equally efficacious form of
black draught is made by infusing 1/2 oz. of Alexandrian senna, 3 oz. of
Epsom salts, and 2 drachms of bruised ginger and coriander-seeds, for
several hours in a pint of boiling water, straining the liquor, and
adding either 2 drachms of sal-volatile or spirits of hartshorn to the
whole, and giving 3 tablespoonfuls for a dose to an adult.

2588. _Mixtures_--1. _Aperient_.--Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in
half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a dose, and
repeat it in three or four hours if necessary.

2589. 2. _Fever Mixture_.--Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms of
carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a
tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre, in half a pint of water.

2590. 3. _Myrrh and Aloes Pills_.--Ten grains made into two pills are
the dose for a full-grown person.

2591. 4. _Compound Iron Pills_.--Dose for a full-grown person: 10 grains
made into two pills.

2592. _Pills_.--1. Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of
antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills.
Dose for a full-grown person: two pills.--2. Mix 5 grains of blue pill
and the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth together, and
make into two pills, the dose for a full-grown person.

2593. _Powders_.--Mix a grain of calomel and 4 grains of powdered jalap
together.

2594. In all cases, the dose of medicines given is to be regulated by
the age of the patient.

2595. _Abernethy's Plan for making a Bread-and-Water Poultice_.--First
scald out a basin; then having put in some boiling water, throw in
coarsely-crumbled bread, and cover it with a plate. When the bread has
soaked up as much water as it will imbibe, drain off the remaining
water, and there will be left a light pulp. Spread it a third of an inch
thick on folded linen, and apply it when of the temperature of a warm
bath. To preserve it moist, occasionally drop warm water on it.

2596. _Linseed-Meal Poultice_.--"Scald your basin, by pouring a little
hot water into it; then put a small quantity of finely-ground
linseed-meal into the basin, pour a little hot water on it, and stir it
round briskly until you have well incorporated them; add a little more
meal and a little more water; then stir it again. Do not let any lumps
remain in the basin, but stir the poultice well, and do not be sparing
of your trouble. What you do next, is to take as much of it out of the
basin as you may require, lay it on a piece of soft linen, and let it be
about a quarter of an inch thick."--_Abernethy_.

2597. _Mustard Poultice_.--Mix equal parts of dry mustard and
linseed-meal in warm vinegar. When the poultice is wanted weak, warm
water may be used for the vinegar; and when it is required very strong,
mustard alone, without any linseed-meal, is to be mixed with warm
vinegar.

2598. _An ordinary Blister_.--Spread a little blister compound on a
piece of common adhesive plaster with the right thumb. It should be put
on just thickly enough to conceal the appearance of the plaster beneath.
The part from which a blister has been taken should be covered till it
heals over with soft linen rags smeared with lard.


Baths and Fomentations.

2599. All fluid applications to the body are exhibited either in a hot
or cold form; and the object for which they are administered is to
produce a stimulating effect over the entire, or a part, of the system;
for the effect, though differently obtained, and varying in degree, is
the same in principle, whether procured by hot or cold water.

2600. _Heat_.--There are three forms in which heat is universally
applied to the body,--that of the tepid, warm, and vapour bath; but as
the first is too inert to be worth notice, and the last dangerous and
inapplicable, except in public institutions, we shall confine our
remarks to the really efficacious and always attainable one--the

2601. _Warm and Hot Bath_.--These baths are used whenever there is
congestion, or accumulation of blood in the internal organs, causing
pain, difficulty of breathing, or stupor, and are employed, by their
stimulating property, to cause a rush of blood to the surface, and, by
unloading the great organs, produce a temporary inflammation in the
skin, and so equalize the circulation. The effect of the hot bath is to
increase the fulness of the pulse, accelerate respiration, and excite
perspiration. In all inflammations of the stomach and bowels, the hot
bath is of the utmost consequence; the temperature of the warm bath
varies from 92° to 100°, and may be obtained by those who have no
thermometer to test the exact heat, by mixing one measure of boiling
with two of cold water.

2602. _Fomentations_ are generally used to effect, in a part, the
benefit produced on the whole body by the bath; to which a sedative
action is occasionally given by the use of roots, herbs, or other
ingredients; the object being to relieve the internal organ, as the
throat, or muscles round a joint, by exciting a greater flow of blood to
the skin _over_ the affected part. As the real agent of relief is heat,
the fomentation should always be as hot as it can comfortably be borne,
and, to insure effect, should be repeated every half-hour. Warm fluids
are applied in order to render the swelling which accompanies
inflammation less painful, by the greater readiness with which the skin
yields, than when it is harsh and dry. They are of various kinds; but
the most simple, and oftentimes the most useful, that can be employed,
is "Warm Water." Another kind of fomentation is composed of dried
poppyheads, 4 oz. Break them to pieces, empty out the seeds, put them
into 4 pints of water, boil for a quarter of an hour, then strain
through a cloth or sieve, and keep the water for use. Or, chamomile
flowers, hemlock, and many other plants, may be boiled, and the part
fomented with the hot liquor, by means of flannels wetted with the
decoction.

2603. _Cold_, when applied in excess to the body, drives the blood from
the surface to the centre, reduces the pulse, makes the breathing hard
and difficult, produces coma, and, if long continued, death. But when
medicinally used, it excites a reaction on the surface equivalent to a
stimulating effect; as in some cases of fever, when the body has been
sponged with cold water, it excites, by reaction, increased circulation
on the skin. Cold is sometimes used to keep up a repellent action, as,
when local inflammation takes place, a remedy is applied, which, by its
benumbing and astringent effect, causes the blood, or the excess of it
in the part, to recede, and, by contracting the vessels, prevents the
return of any undue quantity, till the affected part recovers its tone.
Such remedies are called _Lotions_, and should, when used, be applied
with the same persistency as the fomentation; for, as the latter should
be renewed as often as the heat passes off, so the former should be
applied as often as the heat from the skin deprives the application of
its cold.

2604. _Poultices_ are only another form of fomentation, though chiefly
used for abscesses. The ingredient best suited for a poultice is that
which retains heat the longest; of these ingredients, the best are
linseed--meal, bran, and bread. Bran sewed into a bag, as it can be
reheated, will be found the cleanest and most useful; especially for
sore throats.


How to Bleed.

2605. In cases of great emergency, such as the strong kind of apoplexy,
and when a surgeon cannot possibly be obtained for some considerable
time, the life of the patient depends almost entirely upon the fact of
his being bled or not. We therefore give instructions how the operation
of bleeding is to be performed, but caution the reader only to attempt
it in cases of the greatest emergency. Place a handkerchief or piece of
tape rather but not too tightly round the arm, about three or four
inches above the elbow. This will cause the veins below to swell and
become very evident. If this is not sufficient, the hand should be
constantly and quickly opened and shut for the same purpose. There will
now be seen, passing up the middle of the fore-arm, a vein which, just
below the bend of the elbow, sends a branch inwards and outwards, each
branch shortly joining another large vein. It is from the _outer_
branch--that the person is to be bled. The right arm is the one mostly
operated on. The operator should take the lancet in his right hand,
between the thumb and first finger, place the thumb of his left hand on
the vein below the part where he is going to bleed from, and then gently
thrust the tip of the lancet into the vein, and, taking care not to push
it too deeply, cut in a gently curved direction, thus and bring it
out, point upwards, at about half an inch from the part of the vein into
which he had thrust it. The vein must be cut lengthways, and not across.
When sufficient blood has been taken away, remove the bandage from above
the elbow, and place the thumb of the left hand firmly over the cut,
until all the bleeding ceases. A small pad of lint is then to be put
over the cut, with a larger pad over it, and the two kept in their
places by means of a handkerchief or linen roller bound pretty tightly
over them and round the arm.

2606. When a person is bled, he should always be in the standing, or at
any rate in the sitting, position; for if, as is often the case, he
should happen to faint, he can, in, most eases at least, easily be
brought to again by the operator placing him flat on his back, and
stopping the bleeding. _This is of the greatest importance._ It has been
recommended, for what supposed advantages we don't know, to bleed people
when they are lying down. Should a person, under these circumstances,
faint, what could be done to bring him to again? The great treatment of
lowering the body of the patient to the flat position cannot be followed
here. It is in that position already, and cannot be placed lower than it
at present is--except, as is most likely to be the case, under the
ground.

2607. BLEEDING FROM THE NOSE.--Many children, especially those of a
sanguineous temperament, are subject to sudden discharges of blood from
some part of the body; and as all such fluxes are in general the result
of an effort of nature to relieve the system from some overload or
pressure, such discharges, unless in excess, and when likely to produce
debility, should not be rashly or too abruptly checked. In general,
these discharges are confined to the summer or spring months of the
year, and follow pains in the head, a sense of drowsiness, languor, or
oppression; and, as such symptoms are relieved by the loss of blood, the
hemorrhage should, to a certain extent, be encouraged. When, however,
the bleeding is excessive, or returns too frequently, it becomes
necessary to apply means to subdue or mitigate the amount. For this
purpose the sudden and unexpected application of cold is itself
sufficient, in most cases, to arrest the most active hemorrhage. A wet
towel laid suddenly on the back, between the shoulders, and placing the
child in a recumbent posture, is often sufficient to effect the object;
where, however, the effusion resists such simple means, napkins wrung
out of cold water must be laid across the forehead and nose, the hands
dipped in cold water, and a bottle of hot water applied to the feet. If,
in spite of these means, the bleeding continues, a little fine wool or a
few folds of lint, tied together by a piece of thread, must be pushed up
the nostril from which the blood flows, to act as a plug and pressure on
the bleeding vessel. When the discharge has entirely ceased, the plug is
to be pulled out by means of the thread. To prevent a repetition of the
hemorrhage, the body should be sponged every morning with cold water,
and the child put under a course of steel wine, have open-air exercise,
and, if possible, salt-water bathing. For children, a key suddenly
dropped down the back between the skin and clothes, will often
immediately arrest a copious bleeding.

2608. SPITTING OF BLOOD, or hemorrhage from the lungs, is generally
known from blood from the stomach by its being of a brighter colour, and
in less quantities than that, which is always grumous and mixed with the
half-digested food. In either case, rest should be immediately enjoined,
total abstinence from stimulants, and a low, poor diet, accompanied with
the horizontal position, and bottles of boiling water to the feet. At
the same time the patient should suck through a quill, every hour, half
a wine-glass of water in which 10 or 15 drops of the elixir of vitriol
has been mixed, and, till further advice has been procured, keep a towel
wrung out of cold water on the chest or stomach, according to the seat
of the hemorrhage.


Bites and Stings.

2609. BITES AND STINGS may be divided into three kinds:--1. Those of
Insects. 2. Those of Snakes. 3. Those of Dogs and other Animals.

2610. 1. _The Bites or Stings of Insects_, such as gnats, bees, wasps,
&c., need cause very little alarm, and are, generally speaking, easily
cured. They are very serious, however, when they take place on some
delicate part of the body, such as near the eye, or in the throat. _The
treatment_ is very simple in most cases; and consists in taking out the
sting, if it is left behind, with a needle, and applying to the part a
liniment made of finely-scraped chalk and olive-oil, mixed together to
about the thickness of cream.

2611. Bathing the part bitten with warm turpentine or warm vinegar is
also of great use. If the person feels faint, he should lie quietly on
his back, and take a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water.
When the inside of the throat is the part stung, there is great danger
of violent inflammation taking place. In this case, from eight to twelve
leeches should be immediately put to the outside of the throat, and when
they drop off, the part to which they had been applied should be well
fomented with warm water. The inside of the throat is to be constantly
gargled with salt and water. Bits of ice are to be sucked. Rubbing the
face and hands well over with plain olive-oil, before going to bed, will
often keep gnats and musquitoes from biting during the night. Strong
scent, such as eau-de-Cologne, will have the same effect.

2612. 2. _Bites of Snakes_.--These are much more dangerous than the
preceding, and require more powerful remedies. The bites of the
different kinds of snakes do not all act alike, but affect people in
different ways.--_Treatment of the part bitten_. The great thing is to
prevent the poison getting into the blood; and, if possible, to remove
the whole of it at once from the body. A pocket-handkerchief, a piece of
tape or cord, or, in fact, of anything that is at hand, should be tied
tightly round the part of the body bitten; if it be the leg or arm,
immediately _above_ the bite, and between it and the heart. The bite
should then be sucked several times by any one who is near. There is no
danger in this, provided the person who does it has not got the skin
taken off any part of his mouth. What has been sucked into the mouth
should be immediately spit out again. But if those who are near have
sufficient nerve for the operation, and a suitable instrument, they
should cut out the central part bitten, and then bathe the wound for
some time with warm water, to make it bleed freely. The wound should
afterwards be rubbed with a stick of lunar caustic, or, what is better,
a solution of this--60 grains of lunar caustic dissolved in an ounce of
water--should be dropped into it. The band should be kept on the part
during the whole of the time that these means are being adopted. The
wound should afterwards be covered with lint dipped in cold water. The
best plan, however, to be adopted, if it can be managed, is the
following:--take a common wine-glass, and, holding it upside down, put a
lighted candle or a spirit-lamp into it for a minute or two. This will
take out the air. Then clap the glass suddenly over the bitten part, and
it will become attached, and hold on to the flesh. The glass being
nearly empty, the blood containing the poison will, in consequence, flow
into it from the wound of its own accord. This process should be
repeated three or four times, and the wound sucked, or washed with warm
water, before each application of the glass. As a matter of course, when
the glass is removed, all the blood should be washed out of it before it
is applied again.--_Constitutional Treatment_. There is mostly at first
great depression of strength in these cases, and it is therefore
requisite to give some stimulant; a glass of hot brandy-and-water, or
twenty drops of sal-volatile, is the best that can be given. When the
strength has returned, and if the patient has not already been sick, a
little mustard in hot water should be given, to make him so. If, on the
other hand, as is often the case, the vomiting is excessive, a large
mustard poultice should be placed over the stomach, and a grain of solid
opium swallowed in the form of a pill, for the purpose of stopping it.
Only one of these pills should be given by a non-professional person. In
all cases of bites from snakes, send for a surgeon as quickly as
possible, and act according to the above directions until he arrives. If
he is within any reasonable distance, content yourself by putting on the
band, sucking the wound, applying the glass, and, if necessary, giving a
little brandy-and-water.

2613. 3. _Bites of Dogs_.--For obvious reasons, these kinds of bites are
more frequently met with than those of snakes. _The treatment_ is the
same as that for snake-bites, more especially that of the bitten part.
The majority of writers on the subject are in favour of keeping the
wound open as long as possible. This may be done by putting a few beans
on it, and then by applying a large linseed-meal poultice over them.


Injuries and Accidents to Bones.

2614. _Dislocation of Bones_.--When the end of a bone is pushed out of
its natural position, it is said to be dislocated. This may be caused by
violence, disease, or natural weakness of the parts about a
joint.--_Symptoms_. Deformity about the joint, with unnatural prominence
at one part, and depression at another. The limb may be shorter or
longer than usual, and is stiff and unable to be moved, differing in
these last two respects from a broken limb, which is mostly shorter,
never longer, than usual, and which is always more movable.--_Treatment_.
So much practical science and tact are requisite in order to bring a
dislocated bone into its proper position again, that we strongly advise
the reader never to interfere in these cases; unless, indeed, it is
altogether impossible to obtain the services of a surgeon. But because
any one of us may very possibly be placed in that emergency, we give a
few rough rules for the reader's guidance. In the first place make the
joint, from which the bone has been displaced, perfectly steady, either
by fixing it to some firm object or else by holding it with the hands;
then pull the dislocated bone in a direction towards the place from
which it has been thrust, so that, if it moves at all from its unnatural
position, it may have the best chance of returning to its proper place.
Do not, however, pull or press against the parts too violently, as you
may, perhaps, by doing so, rupture blood-vessels, and produce most
serious consequences. When you _do_ attempt to reduce a dislocated bone,
do it as quickly as possible after the accident has taken place, every
hour making the operation more difficult. When the patient is very
strong, he may be put into a warm bath until he feels faint, or have
sixty drops of antimonial wine given him every ten minutes until he
feels sickish. These two means are of great use in relaxing the muscles.
If the bone has been brought back again to its proper place, keep it
there by means of bandages; and if there is much pain about the joint,
apply a cold lotion to it, and keep it perfectly at rest. The lotion
should be, a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract, and two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, mixed in a pint of water. Leeches are sometimes necessary.
Unless the local pain, or general feverish symptoms, are great, the
patient's diet should be the same as usual. Dislocations may be reduced
a week, or even a fortnight, after they have taken place. As, therefore,
although the sooner a bone is reduced the better, there is no very great
emergency, and as the most serious consequences may follow improper or
too violent treatment, it is always better for people in these cases to
do too little than too much; inasmuch as the good which has not yet may
still be done, whereas the evil that _has_ been done cannot so easily be
undone.

2615. FRACTURES OF BONES.--_Symptoms_. 1. Deformity of the part. 2.
Unnatural looseness. 3. A grating sound when the two ends of the broken
bone are rubbed together. 4. Loss of natural motion and power. In some
cases there is also shortening of the limb.--Fracture takes place from
several causes, as a fall, a blow, a squeeze, and sometimes from the
violent action of muscles.--_Treatment_. In cases where a surgeon cannot
be procured immediately after the accident, the following general rules
are offered for the reader's guidance:--The broken limb should be placed
and kept as nearly as possible in its natural position. This is to be
done by first pulling the two portions of the bone in opposite
directions, until the limb becomes as long as the opposite one, and then
by applying a splint, and binding it to the part by means of a roller.
When there is no deformity, the pulling is of course unnecessary. If
there is much swelling about the broken part, a cold lotion is to be
applied. This lotion (_which we will call Lotion No. 1_) may be thus
made:--Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and two
tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water. When the leg or arm is
broken, always, if possible, get it to the same length and form as the
opposite limb. The broken part should be kept perfectly quiet. When a
broken limb is deformed, and a particular muscle is on the stretch,
place the limb in such a position as will relax it. This will in most
cases cure the deformity. Brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water,
are to be given when the patient is faint. Surgical aid should, of
course, be procured as soon as possible.

2616. JOINTS, INJURIES TO.--All kinds of injuries to joints, of whatever
description, require particular attention, in consequence of the violent
inflammations which are so liable to take place in these parts of the
body, and which do so much mischief in a little time. The joint injured
should always be kept perfectly at rest; and when it is very painful,
and the skin about it red, swollen, hot, and shining, at the same time
that the patient has general feverish symptoms, such as great thirst and
headache--leeches, and when they drop off, warm poppy fomentations, are
to be applied; the No. 1 pills above-mentioned are to be given (two are
a dose for a grown person) with a black draught three hours afterwards.
Give also two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture every four hours, and
keep the patient on low diet. When the injury and swelling are not very
great, warm applications, with rest, low diet, and a dose of aperient
medicine, will be sufficient. When a joint has received a penetrating
wound, it will require the most powerful treatment, and can only be
properly attended to by a surgeon. The patient's friends will have to
use their own judgment to a great extent in these and in many other
cases, as to when leeches, fever-mixture, &c., are necessary. A
universal rule, however, without a single exception, _is always to rest
a joint well_ after it has been injured in any way whatever, to purge
the patient, and to keep him on low diet, without beer, unless he has
been a very great drinker indeed, in which case he may still be allowed
to take a little; for if the stimulant that a person has been accustomed
to in excess be all taken away at once, he is very likely to have an
attack of delirium tremens. The quantity given should not, however, be
much--say a pint, or, at the most, a pint and a half a day. Rubbing the
joint with opodeldoc, or the application of a blister to it, is of great
service in taking away the thickenings, which often remain after all
heat, pain, and redness have left an injured joint. Great care should be
observed in not using a joint too quickly after it has been injured.
When the shoulder-joint is the one injured, the arm should be bound
tightly to the body by means of a linen or flannel roller, and the elbow
raised; when the elbow, it should be kept raised in the straight
position, on a pillow; when the wrist, it should be raised on the chest,
and suspended in a sling; when the knee, it should be kept in the
straight position; and, lastly, when the ankle, it should be a little
raised on a pillow.

2617. BRUISES, LACERATIONS, AND CUTS.--Wherever the bruise may be, or
however swollen or discoloured the skin may become, two or three
applications of the _extract of lead_, kept to the part by means of
lint, will, in an hour or little more, remove all pain, swelling, and
tenderness. Simple or clean cuts only require the edges of the wound to
be placed in their exact situation, drawn close together, and secured
there by one or two slips of adhesive plaster. When the wound, however,
is jagged, or the flesh or cuticle lacerated, the parts are to be laid
as smooth and regular as possible, and a piece of lint, wetted in the
_extract of lead_, laid upon the wound, and a piece of greased lint
placed above it to prevent the dressing sticking; the whole covered over
to protect from injury, and the part dressed in the same manner once a
day till the cure is effected.

2618. BRUISES AND THEIR TREATMENT.--The best application for a bruise,
be it large or small, is moist warmth; therefore, a warm bread-and-water
poultice in hot moist flannels should be put on, as they supple the
skin. If the bruise be very severe, and in the neighbourhood of a joint,
it will be well to apply ten or a dozen leeches over the whole bruised
part, and afterwards a poultice. But leeches should not be put on young
children. If the bruised part be the knee or the ankle, walking should
not be attempted till it can be performed without pain. Inattention to
this point often lays the foundation for serious mischief in these
joints, especially in the case of scrofulous persons. In all conditions
of bruises occurring in children, whether swellings or abrasions, no
remedy is so quick or certain of effecting a cure as the pure extract of
lead applied to the part.


Burns and Scalds.

2619. BURNS AND SCALDS being essentially the same in all particulars,
and differing only in the manner of their production, may be spoken of
together. As a general rule, scalds are less severe than burns, because
the heat of water, by which scalds are mostly produced, is not, even
when it is boiling, so intense as that of flame; oil, however, and other
liquids, whose boiling-point is high, produce scalds of a very severe
nature. Burns and scalds have been divided into three classes. The first
class comprises those where the burn is altogether superficial, and
merely reddens the skin; the second, where the injury is greater, and we
get little bladders containing a fluid (called serum) dotted over the
affected part; in the third class we get, in the case of burns, a
charring, and in that of scalds, a softening or pulpiness, perhaps a
complete and immediate separation of the part. This may occur at once,
or in the course of a little time. The pain from the second kind of
burns is much more severe than that in the other two, although the
danger, as a general rule, is less than it is in the third class. These
injuries are much more dangerous when they take place on the trunk than
when they happen on the arms or legs. The danger arises more from the
extent of surface that is burnt than from the depth to which the burn
goes. This rule, of course, has certain exceptions; because a small burn
on the chest or belly penetrating deeply is more dangerous than a more
extensive but superficial one on the arm or leg. When a person's clothes
are in flames, the best way of extinguishing them is to wind a rug, or
some thick material, tightly round the whole of the body.

2620. _Treatment of the First Class of Burns and Scalds_.--_Of the part
affected_.--Cover it immediately with a good coating of common flour, or
cotton-wool with flour dredged well into it. The great thing is to keep
the affected surface of the skin from the contact of the air. The part
will shortly get well, and the skin may or may not peel
off.--_Constitutional Treatment_. If the burn or scald is not extensive,
and there is no prostration of strength, this is very simple, and
consists in simply giving a little aperient medicine--pills (No. 2), as
follows:--Mix 5 grains of blue pill and the same quantity of compound
extract of colocynth, and make into two pills--the dose for a full-grown
person. Three hours after the pills give a black draught. If there are
general symptoms of fever, such as hot skin, thirst, headache, &c. &c.,
two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture are to be given every four hours.
The fever-mixture, we remind our readers, is made thus:-Mix a drachm of
powdered nitro, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of
antimonial wine, and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitro, in half
a pint of water.

2621. _Second Class. Local Treatment_.--As the symptoms of these kinds
of burns are more severe than those of the first class, so the remedies
appropriate to them are more powerful. Having, as carefully as possible,
removed the clothes from the burnt surface, and taking care not to break
the bladders, spread the following liniment (No. 1) on a piece of linen
or lint--not the _fluffy_ side--and apply it to the part: the liniment
should be equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil, well mixed. If the
burn is on the trunk of the body, it is better to use a warm
linseed-meal poultice. After a few days dress the wound with Turner's
cerate. If the burn is at the bend of the elbow, place the arm in the
_straight_ position; for if it is _bent_, the skin, when healed, will be
contracted, and the arm, in all probability, always remain in the same
un natural position. This, indeed, applies to all parts of the body;
therefore, always place the part affected in the most _stretched_
position possible.--_Constitutional Treatment_. The same kind of
treatment is to be used as for the first class, only it must be more
powerful. Stimulants are move often necessary, but must be given with
great caution. If, as is often the case, there is great irritability and
restlessness, a dose of opium (paregoric, in doses of from sixty to a
hundred drops, according to age, is best) is of great service. The
feverish symptoms will require aperient medicines and the fever mixture.
A drink made of about a tablespoonful of cream of tartar and a little
lemon-juice, in a quart of warm water, allowed to cool, is a very nice
one in these cases. The diet throughout should not be too low,
especially if there is much discharge from the wound. After a few days
it is often necessary to give wine, ammonia, and strong beef-tea. These
should be had recourse to when the tongue gets dry and dark, and the
pulse weak and frequent. If there should be, after the lapse of a week
or two, pain over one particular part of the belly, a blister should be
put on it, and a powder of mercury and chalk-grey powder, and Dover's
powder (two grains of the former and five of the latter) given three
times a day. Affections of the head and chest also frequently occur as a
consequence of these kinds of burns, but no one who is not a medical man
can treat them.

2622. _Third Class_.--These are so severe as to make it impossible for a
non-professional person to be of much service in attending to them. When
they occur, a surgeon should always be sent for. Until he arrives,
however, the following treatment should be adopted:--Place the patient
full-length on his back, and keep him warm. Apply fomentations of
flannels wrung out of boiling water and sprinkled with spirits of
turpentine to the part, and give wine and sal-volatile in such
quantities as the prostration of strength requires; always bearing in
mind the great fact that you have to steer between two quicksands--death
from present prostration and death from future excitement, which will
always be increased in proportion to the amount of stimulants given.
Give, therefore, only just as much as is absolutely necessary to keep
life in the body.

2623. CONCUSSION OF BRAIN--STUNNING.--This may be caused by a blow or a
fall.--_Symptoms_. Cold skin; weak pulse; almost total insensibility;
slow, weak breathing; pupil of eye sometimes bigger, sometimes smaller,
than natural; inability to move; unwillingness to answer when spoken to.
These symptoms come on directly after the accident.--_Treatment_. Place
the patient quietly on a warm bed, send for a surgeon, _and do nothing
else for the first four or six hours_. After this time the skin will
become hot, the pulse full, and the patient feverish altogether. If the
surgeon has not arrived by the time these symptoms have set in, shave
the patient's head, and apply the following lotion (No. 2): Mix half an
ounce of sal-ammoniac, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the same
quantity of gin or whisky, in half a pint of water. Then give this pill
(No. 1); Mix five grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial
powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills. Give a black
draught three hours after the pill, and two tablespoonfuls of the
above-mentioned fever-mixture every four hours. Keep on low diet.
Leeches are sometimes to be applied to the head. These cases are often
followed by violent inflammation of the brain. They can, therefore, only
be attended to properly throughout by a surgeon. The great thing for
people to do in these cases is--nothing; contenting themselves with
putting the patient to bed, and waiting the arrival of a surgeon.

2624. THE CHOLERA AND AUTUMNAL COMPLAINTS.--To oppose cholera, there
seems no surer or better means than cleanliness, sobriety, and judicious
ventilation. Where there is dirt, that is the place for cholera; where
windows and doors are kept most jealously shut, there cholera will find
easiest entrance; and people who indulge in intemperate diet during the
hot days of autumn are actually courting death. To repeat it,
cleanliness, sobriety, and free ventilation almost always defy the
pestilence; but, in case of attack, immediate recourse should be had to
a physician. The faculty say that a large number of lives have been
lost, in many seasons, solely from delay in seeking medical assistance.
They even assert that, taken early, the cholera is by no means a fatal
disorder. The copious use of salt is recommended on very excellent
authority. Other autumnal complaints there are, of which diarrhoea is
the worst example. They come on with pain, flatulence, sickness, with or
without vomiting, followed by loss of appetite, general lassitude, and
weakness. If attended to at the first appearance, they may soon be
conquered; for which purpose it is necessary to assist nature in
throwing off the contents of the bowels, which may be one by means of
the following prescription:--Take of calomel 3 grains, rhubarb 8 grains;
mix and take it in a little honey or jelly, and repeat the dose three
times, at the intervals of four or five hours. The next purpose to be
answered is the defence of the lining membrane of the intestines from
their acrid contents, which will be best effected by drinking copiously
of linseed tea, or of a drink made by pouring boiling water on
quince-seeds, which are of a very mucilaginous nature; or, what is still
better, full draughts of whey. If the complaint continue after these
means have been employed, some astringent or binding medicine will be
required, as the subjoined:--Take of prepared chalk 2 drachms,
cinnamon-water 7 oz., syrup of poppies 1 oz.; mix, and take 3
tablespoonfuls every four hours. Should this fail to complete the cure,
1/2 oz. of tincture of catechu, or of kino, may be added to it, and then
it will seldom fail; or a teaspoonful of the tincture of kino alone,
with a little water, every three hours, till the diarrhoea is checked.
While any symptoms of derangement are present, particular attention must
be paid to the diet, which should be of a soothing, lubricating, and
light nature, as instanced in veal or chicken broth, which should
contain but little salt. Rice, batter, and bread puddings will be
generally relished, and be eaten with advantage; but the stomach is too
much impaired to digest food of a more solid nature. Indeed, we should
give that organ, together with the bowels, as little trouble as
possible, while they are so incapable of acting in their accustomed
manner. Much mischief is frequently produced by the absurd practice of
taking tincture of rhubarb, which is almost certain of aggravating that
species of disorder of which we have now treated; for it is a spirit as
strong as brandy, and cannot fail of producing harm upon a surface which
is rendered tender by the formation and contact of vitiated bile. But
our last advice is, upon the first appearance of such symptoms as are
above detailed, have _immediate_ recourse to a doctor, where possible.

2625. TO CURE A COLD.--Put a large teacupful of linseed, with 1/4 lb. of
sun raisins and 2 oz. of stick liquorice, into 2 quarts of soft water,
and let it simmer over a slow fire till reduced to one quart; add to it
1/4 lb. of pounded sugar-candy, a tablespoonful of old rum, and a
tablespoonful of the best white-wine vinegar, or lemon-juice. The rum
and vinegar should be added as the decoction is taken; for, if they are
put in at first, the whole soon becomes flat and less efficacious. The
dose is half a pint, made warm, on going to bed; and a little may be
taken whenever the cough is troublesome. The worst cold is generally
cured by this remedy in two or three days; and, if taken in time, is
considered infallible.

2626. COLD ON THE CHEST.--A flannel dipped in boiling water, and
sprinkled with turpentine, laid on the chest as quickly as possible,
will relieve the most severe cold or hoarseness.

2627. SUBSTANCES IN THE EYE.--To remove fine particles of gravel, lime,
&c., the eye should be syringed with lukewarm water till free from them.
Be particular not to worry the eye, under the impression that the
substance is still there, which the enlargement of some of the minute
vessels makes the patient believe is actually the case.

2628. SORE EYES.--Incorporate thoroughly, in a glass mortar or vessel,
one part of strong citron ointment with three parts of spermaceti
ointment. Use the mixture night and morning, by placing a piece of the
size of a pea in the corner of the eye affected, only to be used in
cases of chronic or long-standing inflammation of the organ, or its
lids.

2629. LIME IN THE EYE.--Bathe the eye with a little weak
vinegar-and-water, and carefully remove any little piece of lime which
may be seen, with a feather. If any lime has got entangled in the
eyelashes, carefully clear it away with a bit of soft linen soaked in
vinegar-and-water. Violent inflammation is sure to follow; a smart purge
must be therefore administered, and in all probability a blister must be
applied on the temple, behind the ear, or nape of the neck.


2630. STYE IN THE EYE.--Styes are little abscesses which form between
the roots of the eyelashes, and are rarely larger than a small pea. The
best way to manage them is to bathe them frequently with warm water, or
in warm poppy-water, if very painful. When they have burst, use an
ointment composed of one part of citron ointment and four of spermaceti,
well rubbed together, and smear along the edge of the eyelid. Give a
grain or two of calomel with 5 or 8 grains of rhubarb, according to the
age of the child, twice a week. The old-fashioned and apparently absurd
practice of rubbing the stye with a ring, is as good and speedy a cure
as that by any process of medicinal application; though the number of
times it is rubbed, or the quality of the ring and direction of the
strokes, has nothing to do with its success. The pressure and the
friction excite the vessels of the part, and cause an absorption of the
effused matter under the eyelash. The edge of the nail will answer as
well as a ring.

2631. INFLAMMATION OF THE EYELIDS.--The following ointment has been
found very beneficial in inflammations of the eyeball and edges of the
eyelids:--Take of prepared calomel, 1 scruple; spermaceti ointment, 1/2
oz. Mix them well together in a glass mortar; apply a small quantity to
each corner of the eye every night and morning, and also to the edges of
the lids, if they are affected. If this should not eventually remove the
inflammation, elder-flower water may be applied three or four times a
day, by means of an eye-cup. The bowels should be kept in a laxative
state, by taking occasionally a quarter of an ounce of the Cheltenham or
Epsom salts.

2632. FASTING.--It is said by many able physicians that fasting is a
means of removing incipient disease, and of restoring the body to its
customary healthy sensations. Howard, the celebrated philanthropist
(says a writer), used to fast one day in every week. Napoleon, when he
felt his system unstrung, suspended his wonted repast, and took his
exercise on horseback.


Fits.

2633. Fits come on so suddenly, often without even the slightest
warning, and may prove fatal so quickly, that all people should be
acquainted at least with their leading symptoms and treatment, as a few
moments, more or less, will often decide the question between life and
death. The treatment, in very many cases at least, to be of the
slightest use, should be _immediate_, as a person in a fit (of apoplexy
for instance) may die while a surgeon is being fetched from only the
next street. We shall give, as far as the fact of our editing a work for
non-professional readers will permit, the peculiar and distinctive
symptoms of all kind of fits, and the immediate treatment to be adopted
in each case.

2634. APOPLEXY.--These fits may be divided into two kinds--the _strong_
and the _weak_.

2635. 1. _The strong kind_.--These cases mostly occur in stout, strong,
short-necked, bloated-faced people, who are in the habit of living
well.--_Symptoms_. The patient may or may not have had headache, sparks
before his eyes, with confusion of ideas and giddiness, for a day or two
before the attack. When it takes place, he falls down insensible; the
body becomes paralyzed, generally more so on one side than the other;
the face and head are hot, and the blood-vessels about them swollen; the
pupils of the eyes are larger than natural, and the eyes themselves are
fixed; the mouth is mostly drawn down at one corner; the breathing is
like loud snoring; the pulse full and hard.--_Treatment_. Place the
patient immediately in bed, with his head well raised; take off
everything that he has round his neck, and bleed freely and at once from
the arm. If you have not got a lancet, use a penknife or anything
suitable that may be at hand. Apply warm mustard poultices to the soles
of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs; put two drops of
castor oil, mixed up with eight grains of calomel, on the top of the
tongue, as far back as possible; a most important part of the treatment
being to open the bowels as quickly and freely as possible. The patient
cannot swallow; but these medicines, especially the oil, will be
absorbed into the stomach altogether independent of any voluntary
action. If possible, throw up a warm turpentine clyster (two
tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm gruel), or, if
this cannot be obtained, one composed of about a quart of warm
salt-and-water and soap. Cut off the hair, and apply rags dipped in weak
vinegar-and-water, or weak gin-and-water, or even simple cold water, to
the head. If the blood-vessels about the head and neck are much swollen,
put from eight to ten leeches on the temple opposite to the paralyzed
side of the body. Always send for a surgeon immediately, and act
according to the above rules, doing more or less, according to the means
at hand, and the length of time that must necessarily elapse until he
arrives. A pint, or even a quart of blood in a very strong person, may
be taken away. When the patient is able to swallow, give him the No. 1
pills, and the No. 1 mixture directly. [The No. 1 pills are made as
follows:--Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial
powder with a little bread-crumb: make into two pills, the dose for a
full-grown person. For the No. 1 mixture, dissolve on ounce of Epsom
salts in half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a
dose] Repeat these remedies if the bowels are not well opened. Keep the
patient's head well raised, and cool as above. Give very low diet
indeed: gruel, arrowroot, and the like. When a person is recovering, he
should have blisters applied to the nape of the neck, his bowels should
be kept well open, light diet given, and fatigue, worry, and excess of
all kinds avoided.

2636. 2. _The weak kind_.--_Symptoms_. These attacks are more frequently
preceded by warning symptoms than the first kind. The face is pale, the
pulse weak, and the body, especially the hands and legs, cold. After a
little while, these symptoms sometimes alter to those of the first class
in a mild degree.--_Treatment._ At first, if the pulse is _very feeble
indeed_, a little brandy-and-water or sal-volatile must be given.
Mustard poultices are to be put, as before, to the soles of the foot and
the insides of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks, or bottles filled with
warm water, are also to be placed under the armpits. When the strength
has returned, the body become warmer, and the pulse fuller and harder,
the head should be shaved, and wet rags applied to it, as before
described. Leeches should be put, as before, to the temple opposite the
side paralyzed; and the bowels should be opened as freely and as quickly
as possible. Bleeding from the arm is often necessary in these cases,
but a non-professional person should never have recourse to it. Blisters
may be applied to the nape of the neck at once. The diet in those cases
should not be so low as in the former--indeed, it is often necessary, in
a day or so after one of these attacks, to give wine, strong beef-tea,
&c., according to the condition of the patient's strength.

2637. _Distinctions between Apoplexy and Epilepsy_.--1. Apoplexy mostly
happens in people over _thirty_, whereas epilepsy generally occurs under
that ago; at any rate for the first time. A person who has epileptic
fits over thirty, has generally suffered from them for some years. 2.
Again, _in apoplexy_, the body is paralyzed; and, therefore, has not
_the convulsions which take place in epilepsy_. 3. The peculiar
_snoring_ will also distinguish apoplexy from epilepsy.

2638. _Distinctions between Apoplexy and Drunkeness_.--1. The known
habits of the person. 2. The fact of a person who was perfectly sober
and sensible a little time before, being found in a state of
insensibility. 3. The absence, in apoplexy, of the _smell of drink_ on
applying the nose to the mouth. 4. A person in a fit of apoplexy cannot
be roused at all; in drunkenness he mostly can, to a certain extent.

2639. _Distinction between Apoplexy and Hysteria_.--Hysterics mostly
happen in young, nervous, unmarried women; and are attended with
convulsions, sobbing, laughter, throwing about of the body, &c. &c.

2640. _Distinction between Apoplexy and Poisoning by Opium_.--It is
exceedingly difficult to distinguish between these two cases. In
poisoning by opium, however, we find the particular smell of the drug in
the patient's breath. We should also, in forming our opinion, take into
consideration the person's previous conduct--whether he has been low and
desponding for some time before, or has ever talked about committing
suicide.

2641. EPILEPSY.--_Falling Sickness_.--Those fits mostly happen, at any
rate for the first time, to young people, and are more common in boys
than girls. They are produced by numerous causes.--_Symptoms_. The fit
may be preceded by pains in the head, palpitations, &c. &c.; but it
mostly happens that the person falls down insensible suddenly, and
without any warning whatever. The eyes are distorted, so that only their
whites can be seen; there is mostly foaming from the mouth; the fingers
are clinched; and the body, especially on one side, is much agitated;
the tongue is often thrust out of the mouth. When the fit goes off, the
patient feels drowsy and faint, and often sleeps soundly for some
time.--_Treatment_. During the fit, keep the patient flat on his back,
with his head slightly raised, and prevent him from doing any harm to
himself; dash cold water into his face, and apply smelling-salts to his
nose; loosen his shirt collar, &c.; hold a piece of wood about as thick
as a finger--the handle of a tooth-brush or knife will do as
well--between the two rows of teeth, at the back part of the mouth. This
will prevent the tongue from being injured. A teaspoonful of common salt
thrust into the patient's mouth, during the fit, is of much service. The
after-treatment of these fits is various, and depends entirely upon
their causes. A good general rule, however, is always to keep the bowels
well open, and the patient quiet, and free from fatigue, worry, and
excess of all kinds.

2642. _Fainting Fits_ are sometimes very dangerous, and at others
perfectly harmless; the question of danger depending altogether upon the
causes which have produced them, and which are exceedingly various. For
instance, fainting produced by disease of the heart is a very serious
symptom indeed; whereas, that arising from some slight cause, such as
the sight of blood, &c., need cause no alarm whatever. The symptoms of
simple fainting are so well known that it would be quite superfluous to
enumerate them here. The _treatment_ consists in laying the patient at
full length upon his back, with his head upon a level with the rest of
his body, loosening everything about the neck, dashing cold water into
the face, and sprinkling vinegar and water about the mouth; applying
smelling-salts to the nose; and, when the patient is able to swallow, in
giving a little warm brandy-and-water, or about 20 drops of sal-volatile
in water.

2643. _Hysterics_.--These fits take place, for the most part, in young,
nervous, unmarried women. They happen much less often in married women;
and even (in some rare cases indeed) in men. Young women, who are
subject to these fits, are apt to think that they are suffering from
"all the ills that flesh is heir to;" and the false symptoms of disease
which they show are so like the true ones, that it is often exceedingly
difficult to detect the difference. The fits themselves are mostly
preceded by great depression of spirits, shedding of tears, sickness,
palpitation of the heart, &c. A pain, as if a nail were being driven in,
is also often felt at one particular part of the head. In almost all
cases, when a fit is coming on, pain is felt on the left side. This pain
rises gradually until it reaches the throat, and then gives the patient
a sensation as if she had a pellet there, which prevents her from
breathing properly, and, in fact, seems to threaten actual suffocation.
The patient now generally becomes insensible, and faints; the body is
thrown about in all directions, froth issues from the mouth, incoherent
expressions are uttered, and fits of laughter, crying, or screaming,
take place. When the fit is going off, the patient mostly cries
bitterly, sometimes knowing all, and at others nothing, of what has
taken place, and feeling general soreness all over the body. _Treatment
during the fit_. Place the body in the same position as for simple
fainting, and treat, in other respects, as directed in the article on
Epilepsy. _Always well loosen the patient's stays_; and, when she is
recovering, and able to swallow, give 20 drops of sal volatile in a
little water. The _after-treatment_ of these cases is very various. If
the patient is of a strong constitution, she should live on plain diet,
take plenty of exercise, and take occasional doses of castor oil, or an
aperient mixture, such as that described as "No. 1," in previous
numbers. If, as is mostly the case, the patient is weak and delicate,
she will require a different mode of treatment altogether. Good
nourishing diet, gentle exercise, cold baths, occasionally a dose of No.
3 myrrh and aloes pills at night, and a dose of compound iron pills
twice a day. [As to the myrrh and aloes pills (No. 3), 10 grains made
into two pills are a dose for a full-grown person. Of the compound iron
pills (No. 4), the dose for a full grown person is also 10 grains, made
into two pills.] In every case, amusing the mind, and avoiding all
causes of over-excitement, are of great service in bringing about a
permanent cure.

2644. LIVER COMPLAINT AND SPASMS.--A very obliging correspondent
recommends the following, from personal experience:--Take 4 oz. of dried
dandelion root, 1 oz. of the best ginger, 1/4 oz. of Columba root;
braise and boil all together in 3 pints of water till it is reduced to a
quart: strain, and take a wine-glassful every four hours. Our
correspondent says it is a "safe and simple medicine for both liver
complaint and spasms."

2645. LUMBAGO.--A "new and successful mode" of treating lumbago,
advocated by Dr. Day, is a form of counter-irritation, said to have been
introduced into this country by the late Sir Anthony Carlisle, and which
consists in the instantaneous application of a flat iron button, gently
heated in a spirit-lamp, to the skin. Dr. Corrigan published, about
three years ago, an account of some cases very successfully treated by
nearly similar means. Dr. Corrigan's plan was, however, to touch the
surface of the part affected, at intervals of half an inch, as lightly
and rapidly as possible. Dr. Day has found greater advantages to result
from drawing the flat surface of the heated button lightly over the
affected part, so as to act on a greater extent of surface. The doctor
speaks so enthusiastically of the benefit to be derived from this
practice, that it is evidently highly deserving attention.

2646. PALPITATION OF THE HEART.--Where palpitation occurs as symptomatic
of indigestion, the treatment must be directed to remedy that disorder;
when it is consequent on a plethoric state, purgatives will be
effectual. In this case the patient should abstain from every kind of
diet likely to produce a plethoric condition of body. Animal food and
fermented liquor must be particularly avoided. Too much indulgence in
sleep will also prove injurious. When the attacks arise from nervous
irritability, the excitement must be allayed by change of air and a
tonic diet. Should the palpitation originate from organic derangement,
it must be, of course, beyond domestic management. Luxurious living,
indolence, and tight-lacing often produce this affection: such cases are
to be conquered with a little resolution.


2647. Poisons shall be the next subject for remark; and we anticipate
more detailed instructions for the treatment of persons poisoned, by
giving a simple LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL POISONS, with their ANTIDOTES OR
REMEDIES.

  Oil of Vitriol ...............\
  Aquafortis ................... Magnesia, Chalk, Soap-and-Water.
  Spirit of Salt .............../

  Emetic Tartar................. Oily Drinks, Solution of Oak-bark.

  Salt of Lemons, or............ Chalk, Whiting, Lime or Magnesia and
  Acid of Sugar................. Water. Sometimes an Emetic
                                 Draught.

                                  Pump on back, Smelling-Salts to nose,
  Prussic Acid................... Artificial Breathing,
                                  Chloride of Lime to nose.

  Pearlash ......................\
  Soap-Lees...................... \
  Smelling-Salts.................  \
  Nitre.......................... Lemon-Juice and Vinegar-and-Water
  Hartshorn...................... /
  Sal-Volatile.................../

  Arsenic........................\
  Fly-Powder, or................. Emetics, Lime-Water, Soap-and-Water,
  White Arsenic.................. Sugar and Water, Oily Drinks.
  Kings Yellow, or............... /
  Yellow Arsenic................./

  Mercury........................\
  Corrosive Sublimate............ Whites of Eggs, Soap-and-Water.
  Calomel......................../

  Opium.......................... Emetic Draught, Vinegar-and-Water,
                Laudanum....................... dashing Cold Water on
                chest and
                                  face, walking up and down two or
                                  three hours.

  Lead...........................\
  White Lead..................... Epsom Salts, Castor Oil, Emetics.
  Sugar of Lead................../
  Goulard's Extract............./

  Copper
  Blue-stone .................... Whites of Eggs, Sugar-and-Water,
  Verdigris...................... Castor Oil, Gruel.

  Zinc .......................... Lime-Water, Chalk-and-Water,
                                  Soap-and-Water.

  Iron .......................... Magnesia, Warm Water.

  Henbane........................\
  Hemlock........................ Emetics and Castor Oil;
  Nightshade..................... Brandy-and-Water, if necessary.
  Foxglove......................./

  Poisonous Food................. Emetics and Castor Oil.

2648. The symptoms of poisoning may be known for the most part from
those of some diseases, which they are very like, from the fact of their
coming on _immediately_ after eating or drinking something; whereas
those of disease come on, in most cases at least, by degrees, and with
warnings. In most cases where poison is known, or suspected, to have
been taken, the first thing to be done is to empty the stomach, well and
immediately, by means of mustard mixed in warm water, or plain warm
salt-and-water, or, better, this draught, which we call No. 1:--Twenty
grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water. This draught
to be repeated in a quarter of an hour if vomiting does not ensue. The
back part of the throat should be well tickled with a feather, or two of
the fingers thrust down it, to induce vomiting. The cases where vomiting
must not be used are those where the skin has been taken off, and the
parts touched irritated and inflamed by the poison taken, and where the
action of vomiting would increase the evil. Full instructions are given
in the article on each particular poison as to where emetics are or are
not to be given. The best and safest way of emptying the stomach is by
means of the stomach-pump, as in certain cases the action of vomiting is
likely to increase the danger arising from the swollen and congested
condition of the blood-vessels of the head, which often takes place. In
the hands, however, of any one else than a surgeon, it would be not only
useless, but harmful, as a great deal of dexterity, caution, and
experience are required to use it properly. After having made these
brief introductory remarks, we shall now proceed to particulars.

2649. _Sulphuric Acid, or Oil of Vitriol_ (a clear, colourless liquid,
of an oily appearance).--_Symptoms in those who have swallowed it_. When
much is taken, these come on immediately. There is great burning pain,
extending from the mouth to the stomach; vomiting of a liquid of a dark
coffee-colour, often mixed with shreds of flesh and streaks of blood;
the skin inside the mouth is taken off; and the exposed surface is at
first white, and after a time becomes brownish. There are sometimes
spots of a brown colour round the lips and on the neck, caused by drops
of the acid falling on these parts. There is great difficulty of
breathing, owing to the swelling at the back part of the mouth. After a
time there is much depression of strength, with a quick, weak pulse, and
cold, clammy skin. The face is pale, and has a very anxious look. When
the acid swallowed has been greatly diluted in water, the same kind of
symptoms occur, only in a milder degree.--_Treatment_. Give a mixture of
magnesia in milk-and-water, or, if this cannot be obtained, of finely
powdered chalk, or whiting, or even of the plaster torn down from the
walls or ceiling, in milk-and-water. The mixture should be nearly as
thick as cream, and plenty of it given. As well as this, simple gruel,
milk, or thick flour-and-water, are very useful, and should be given in
large quantities. Violent inflammation of the parts touched by the acid
is most likely to take place in the coarse of a little time, and can
only be properly attended to by a surgeon; but if one cannot be
obtained, leeches, the fever-mixtures (the recipe for which appears
repeatedly in previous paragraphs), thick drinks, such as barley-water,
gruel, arrowroot, &c., must be had recourse to, according to the
symptoms of each particular case and the means at hand. The inflamed
condition of the back part of the mouth requires particular attention.
When the breathing is very laboured and difficult in consequence, from
fifteen to twenty leeches are to be immediately applied to the outside
of the throat, and when they drop off, warm poppy fomentations
constantly kept to the part. When the pain over the stomach is very
great, the same local treatment is necessary; but if it is only slight,
a good mustard poultice will be sufficient without the leeches. In all
these cases, two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture should be given
every four hours, and only gruel or arrowroot allowed to be eaten for
some days.

2650. _Nitric Acid_, commonly known as _Aqua Fortis_, or _Red Spirit of
Nitre_ (a straw-coloured fluid, of the consistence of water, and which
gives off dense white fumes on exposure to the air).--_Symptoms produced
in those who have swallowed it._ Much the same as in the case of
sulphuric acid. In this case, however, the surface touched by the acid
becomes _yellowish_. The tongue is mostly much swollen.--_Treatment_.
The same as for sulphuric acid.

2651. _Muriatic Acid, Spirit of Salt_ (a thin yellow fluid, emitting
dense white fumes on exposure to the air).--This is not often taken as a
poison. The _symptoms_ and _treatment_ are much the same as those of
_nitric acid_.

N.B.--_In no case of poisoning by these three acids should emetics ever
be given_.

2652. _Oxalic Acid_, commonly called _Salt of Lemons_.--This poison may
be taken by mistake for Epsom salts, which it is a good deal like. It
may be distinguished from them by its very acid taste and its shape,
which is that of needle-formed crystals, each of which, if put into a
drop of ink, will turn it to a reddish brown, whereas Epsom salts will
not change its colour at all. When a large dose of this poison has been
taken, death takes place very quickly indeed.--_Symptoms produced in
those who have swallowed it_. A hot, burning, acid taste is felt in the
act of swallowing, and vomiting of a _greenish-brown_ fluid is produced,
sooner or later, according to the quantity and strength of the poison
taken. There is great tenderness felt over the stomach, followed by
clammy perspirations and convulsions; the legs are often drawn up, and
there is generally stupor, from which the patient, however, can easily
be roused, and always great prostration of strength. The pulse is small
and weak, and the breathing faint.--_Treatment_. Chalk or magnesia, made
into a cream with water, should be given in large quantities, and
afterwards the emetic draught above prescribed, or some
mustard-and-water, if the draught cannot be got. The back part of the
throat to be tickled with a feather, to induce vomiting. Arrowroot,
gruel, and the like drinks, are to be taken. When the prostration of
strength is very great and the body cold, warmth is to be applied to it,
and a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water, given.

2653. _Prussic Acid_ (a thin, transparent, and colourless liquid, with a
peculiar smell, which greatly resembles that of bitter almonds).--_Symptoms
produced in those who have swallowed it_. These come on _immediately_
after the poison has been taken, and may be produced by merely _smelling_
it. The patient becomes perfectly insensible, and falls down in
convulsions--his eyes are fixed and staring, the pupils being bigger
than natural, the skin is cold and clammy, the pulse scarcely perceptible,
and the breathing slow and gasping.--_Treatment_. Very little can be done
in these cases, as death takes place so quickly after the poison has
been swallowed, when it takes place at all. The best treatment--which
should always be adopted in all cases, even though the patient appears
quite dead-is to dash quantities of cold water on the back, from the top
of the neck downwards. Placing the patient under a pump, and pumping on
him, is the best way of doing this. Smelling-salts are also to be applied
to the nose, and the chest well rubbed with a camphor liniment.

2654. ALKALIS: _Potash, Soda_, and _Ammonia_, or common
_Smelling-Salts_, with their principal preparations--_Pearlash, Soap
Lees, Liquor Potassae, Nitre, Sal Prunella, Hartshorn_, and
_Sal--Volatile._--Alkalis are seldom taken or given with the view of
destroying life. They may, however, be swallowed by mistake.--_Symptoms
produced in those who have swallowed them_. There is at first a burning,
acrid taste in, and a sensation of tightness round, the throat, like
that of strangling; the skin touched is destroyed; retching mostly
followed by actual vomiting, then sets in; the vomited matters often
containing blood of a dark brown colour, with little shreds of flesh
here and there, and always changing vegetable blue colours green. There
is now great tenderness over the whole of the belly. After a little
while, great weakness, with cold, clammy sweats, a quick weak pulse, and
purging of bloody matters, takes place. The brain, too, mostly becomes
affected.--_Treatment_. Give two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or
lemon-juice in a glassful of water every few minutes until the burning
sensation is relieved. Any kind of oil or milk may also be given, and
will form soap when mixed with the poison in the stomach. Barley-water,
gruel, arrowroot, linseed-tea, &c., are also very useful, and should be
taken constantly, and in large quantities. If inflammation should take
place, it is to be treated by applying leeches and warm poppy
fomentations to the part where the pain is most felt, and giving two
tablespoonfuls of the fever mixture every four hours. The diet in all
these cases should only consist of arrowroot or gruel for the first few
days, and then of weak broth or beef-tea for some time after.

2655. When very strong fumes of smelling-salts have in any way been
inhaled, there is great difficulty of breathing, and alarming pain in
the mouth and nostrils. In this case let the patient inhale the steam of
warm vinegar, and treat the feverish symptoms as before.

2656. _Arsenic_.--Mostly seen under the form of white arsenic, or
fly-powder, and yellow arsenic, or king's yellow.--_Symptoms produced in
those who have swallowed it_. These vary very much, according to the
form and dose in which the poison has been taken. There is faintness,
depression, and sickness, with an intense burning pain in the region of
the stomach, which gets worse and worse, and is increased by pressure.
There is also vomiting of dark brown matter, sometimes mixed with blood;
and mostly great thirst, with a feeling of tightness round, and of
burning in, the throat. Purging also takes place, the matters brought
away being mixed with blood. The pulse is small and irregular, and the
skin sometimes cold and clammy, and at others hot. The breathing is
painful. Convulsions and spasms often occur.--_Treatment_. Give a couple
of teaspoonfuls of mustard in a glass of water, to bring on or assist
vomiting, and also use the other means elsewhere recommended for the
purpose. A solution, half of lime-water and half of linseed-oil, well
mixed, may be given, as well as plenty of arrowroot, gruel, or
linseed-tea. Simple milk is also useful. A little castor-oil should be
given, to cleanse the intestines of all the poison, and the
after-symptoms treated on general principles.

2657. _Corrosive Sublimate_.--Mostly seen in the form of little heavy
crystalline masses, which melt in water, and have a metallic taste. It
is sometimes seen in powder. This is a most powerful poison.--_Symptoms_.
These mostly come on immediately after the poison has been taken. There
is a coppery taste experienced in the act of swallowing, with a burning
heat, extending from the top of the throat down to the stomach; and also
a feeling of great tightness round the throat. In a few minutes great
pain is felt over the region of the stomach, and frequent vomiting of
long, stringy white masses, mixed with blood, takes place. There is
also mostly great purging. The countenance is generally pale and
anxious; the pulse always small and frequent; the skin cold and clammy,
and the breathing difficult. Convulsions and insensibility often occur,
and are very bad symptoms indeed. The inside of the mouth is more or
less swollen.--_Treatment_. Mix the whites of a dozen eggs in two pints
of cold water, and give a glassful of the mixture every three or four
minutes, until the stomach can contain no more. If vomiting does not now
come on naturally, and supposing the mouth is not very sore or much
swollen, an emetic draught, No. 1, may be given, and vomiting induced.
(The No. 1 draught, we remind our readers, is thus made:--Twenty grains
of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water; the draught to be
repeated if vomiting does not take place in a quarter of an hour.) After
the stomach has been well cleaned out, milk, flour-and-water, linseed-tea,
or barley-water, should be taken in large quantities. If eggs cannot be
obtained, milk, or flour-and-water, should be given as a substitute for
them at once. When the depression of strength is very great indeed, a
little warm brandy-and-water must be given. In the course of an hour or
two the patient should take two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil, and if
inflammation comes on, it is to be treated as directed in the article on
acids and alkalis. The diet should also be the same. If the patient
recovers, great soreness of the gums is almost certain to take place. The
simplest, and at the same time one of the best modes of treatment, is to
wash them well three or four times a day with brandy-and-water.

2658. _Calomel_.--A heavy white powder, without taste, and insoluble in
water. It has been occasionally known to destroy life.--_Symptoms_. Much
the same as in the case of corrosive sublimate.--_Treatment_. The same
as for corrosive sublimate. If the gums are sore, wash them, as
recommended in the case of corrosive sublimate, with brandy-and-water
three or four times a day, and keep the patient on _fluids_, such as
arrowroot, gruel, broth, or beef-tea, according to the other symptoms.
Eating hard substances would make the gums more sore and tender.

2659. _Copper_.--The preparations of this metal which are most likely to
be the ones producing poisonous symptoms, are _blue-stone_ and
_verdigris_. People are often taken ill after eating food that has been
cooked in copper saucepans. When anything has been cooked in one of
these vessels, _it should never be allowed to cool in it_.--_Symptoms_.
Headache, pain in the stomach, and purging; vomiting of green or blue
matters, convulsions, and spasms.--_Treatment_. Give whites of eggs,
sugar-and-water, castor-oil, and drinks, such as arrowroot and gruel.

2660. _Emetic Tartar_.--Seen in the form of a white powder, or crystals,
with a slightly metallic taste. It has not often been known to destroy
life.--_Symptoms_. A strong metallic taste in the act of swallowing,
followed by a burning pain in the region of the stomach, vomiting, and
great purging. The pulse is small and rapid, the skin cold and clammy,
the breathing difficult and painful, and the limbs often much cramped.
There is also great prostration of strength.--_Treatment_. Promote the
vomiting by giving plenty of warm water, or warm arrowroot and water.
Strong tea, in large quantities, should be drunk; or, if it can be
obtained, a decoction of oak bark. The after-treatment is the same as
that for acids and alkalis; the principal object in all these cases
being to keep down the inflammation of the parts touched by the poison
by means of leeches, warm poppy fomentations, fever-mixtures, and very
low diet.

2661. _Lead_, and its preparations, _Sugar of Lead, Goulard's Extract,
White Lead._--Lead is by no means an active poison, although it is
popularly considered to be so. It mostly affects people by being taken
into the system slowly, as in the case of painters and glaziers. A
newly-painted house, too, often affects those living in it.--_Symptoms
produced when taken in a large dose_. There is at first a burning,
pricking sensation in the throat, to which thirst, giddiness, and
vomiting follow. The belly is tight, swollen, and painful; _the pain
being relieved by pressure_. The bowels are mostly bound. There is great
depression of strength, and a cold skin.--Treatment. Give an emetic
draught (No. 1, see above) at once, and shortly afterwards a solution of
Epsom salts in large quantities. A little brandy-and-water must be taken
if the depression of strength is very great indeed. Milk, whites of
eggs, and arrowroot are also useful. After two or three hours, cleanse
the stomach and intestines well out with two tablespoonfuls of
castor-oil, and treat the symptoms which follow according to the rules
laid down in other parts of these articles.--_Symptoms when it is taken
into the body slowly_. Headache, pain about the navel, loss of appetite
and flesh, offensive breath, a blueness of the edges of the gums; the
belly is tight, hard, and knotty, and the pulse slow and languid. There
is also sometimes a difficulty in swallowing.--_Treatment_. Give five
grains of calomel and half a grain of opium directly, in the form of a
pill, and half an ounce of Epsom salts in two hours, and repeat this
treatment until the bowels are well opened. Put the patient into a warm
bath, and throw up a clyster of warmish water when he is in it.
Fomentations of warm oil of turpentine, if they can be obtained, should
be put over the whole of the belly. The great object is to open the
bowels as freely and as quickly as possible. When this has been done, a
grain of pure opium may be given. Arrowroot or gruel should be taken in
good large quantities. The after-treatment must depend altogether upon
the symptoms of each particular case.

2662. _Opium_, and its preparations, _Laudanum, &c_.--Solid opium is
mostly seen in the form of rich brown flattish cakes, with little pieces
of leaves sticking on them here and there, and a bitter and slightly
warm taste. The most common form in which it is taken as a poison, is
that of laudanum.--_Symptoms_. These consist at first in giddiness and
stupor, followed by insensibility, the patient, however, being roused to
consciousness by a great noise, so as to be able to answer a question,
but becoming insensible again almost immediately. The pulse is now quick
and small, the breathing hurried, and the skin warm and covered with
perspiration. After a little time, these symptoms change; the person
becomes _perfectly insensible_, the breathing slow and _snoring_, as in
apoplexy, the skin cold, and the pulse slow and full. The pupil of the
eye is mostly smaller than natural. On applying his nose to the patient's
mouth, a person may smell the poison very distinctly.--_Treatment_.
Give an emetic draught (No. 1, see above) directly, with large quantities
of warm mustard-and-water, warm salt-and-water, or simple warm water.
Tickle the top of the throat with a feather, or put two fingers down it
to bring on vomiting, which rarely takes place of itself. Dash cold water
on the head, chest, and spine, and flap these parts well with the ends of
wet towels. Give strong coffee or tea. Walk the patient up and down in
the open air for two or three hours; the great thing being to keep him
from sleeping. Electricity is of much service. When the patient is
recovering, mustard poultices should be applied to the soles of the feet
and the insides of the thighs and legs. The head should be kept cool and
raised.

2663. The following preparations, which are constantly given to children
by their nurses and mothers, for the purpose of making them sleep, often
prove fatal:--_Syrup of Poppies_, and _Godfrey's Cordial_. The author
would most earnestly urge all people caring for their children's lives,
never to allow any of these preparations to be given, unless ordered by
a surgeon.

2664. The treatment in the case of poisoning by _Henbane_, _Hemlock_,
_Nightshade_, and _Foxglove_, is much the same as that for opium.
Vomiting should be brought on in all of them.

2665. _Poisonous Food_.--It sometimes happens that things which are in
daily use, and mostly perfectly harmless, give rise, under certain
unknown circumstances, and in certain individuals, to the symptoms of
poisoning. The most common articles of food of this description are
_Mussels_, _Salmon_, and certain kinds of _Cheese_ and _Bacon_. The
general symptoms are thirst, weight about the stomach, difficulty of
breathing, vomiting, purging, spasms, prostration of strength, and, in
the case of mussels more particularly, an eruption on the body, like
that of nettle-rash.--_Treatment_. Empty the stomach well with No. 1
draught and warm water, and give two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil
immediately after. Let the patient take plenty of arrowroot, gruel, and
the like drinks, and if there is much depression of strength, give a
little warm brandy-and-water. Should symptoms of fever or inflammation
follow, they must be treated as directed in the articles on other kinds
of poisoning.

2666. _Mushrooms_, and similar kinds of vegetables, often produce
poisonous effects. The symptoms are various, sometimes giddiness and
stupor, and at others pain in and swelling of the belly, with vomiting
and purging, being the leading ones. When the symptoms come on quickly
after taking the poison, it is generally the head that is affected.--The
treatment consists in bringing on vomiting in the usual manner, as
quickly and as freely as possible. The other symptoms are to be treated
on general principles; if they are those of depression, by
brandy-and-water or sal-volatile; if those of inflammation, by leeches,
fomentations, fever-mixtures, &c. &c.

2667. FOR CURE OF RINGWORM.--Take of subcarbonate of soda 1 drachm,
which dissolve in 1/2 pint of vinegar. Wash the head every morning with
soft soap, and apply the lotion night and morning. One teaspoonful of
sulphur and treacle should also be given occasionally night and morning.
The hair should be cut close, and round the spot it should be shaved
off, and the part, night and morning, bathed with a lotion made by
dissolving a drachm of white vitriol in 8 oz. of water. A small piece of
either of the two subjoined ointments rubbed into the part when the
lotion has dried in. No, 1.--Take of citron ointment 1 drachm; sulphur
and tar ointment, of each 1/2 oz.: mix thoroughly, and apply twice a
day. No. 2.--Take of simple cerate 1 oz.; creosote 1 drachm; calomel 30
grains: mix and use in the same manner as the first. Concurrent with
these external remedies, the child should take an alterative powder
every morning, or, if they act too much on the bowels, only every second
day. The following will be found to answer all the intentions desired.

2668. Alterative Powders for Ringworm.--Take of

  Sulphuret of antimony, precipitated . 24 grains.
  Grey powder    .     .    .    .    . 12 grains.
  Calomel .      .     .    .    .    .  6 grains.
  Jalap powder   .     .    .    .    . 36 grains.

Mix carefully, and divide into 12 powders for a child from 1 to 2 years
old; into 9 powders for a child from 2 to 4 years; and into 6 powders
for a child from 4 to 6 years. Where the patient is older, the strength
may be increased by enlarging the quantities of the drugs ordered, or by
giving one and a half or two powders for one dose. The ointment is to be
well washed off every morning with soap-and-water, and the part bathed
with the lotion before re-applying the ointment. An imperative fact must
be remembered by mother or nurse,--never to use the same comb employed
for the child with ringworm, for the healthy children, or let the
affected little one sleep with those free from the disease; and, for
fear of any contact by hands or otherwise, to keep the child's head
enveloped in a nightcap, till this eruption is completely cured.

2669. SCRATCHES.--Trifling as scratches often seem, they ought never to
be neglected, but should be covered and protected, and kept clean and
dry until they have completely healed. If there is the least appearance
of inflammation, no time should be lost in applying a large
bread-and-water poultice, or hot flannels repeatedly applied, or even
leeches in good numbers may be put on at some distance from each other.

2670. FOR SHORTNESS OF BREATH, OR DIFFICULT BREATHING.--Vitriolated
spirits of ether 1 oz., camphor 12 grains: make a solution, of which
take a teaspoonful during the paroxysm. This is found to afford
instantaneous relief in difficulty of breathing, depending on internal
diseases and other causes, where the patient, from a very quick and
laborious breathing, is obliged to be in an erect posture.

2671. SPRAINS.--A sprain is a stretching of the leaders or ligaments of
a part through some violence, such as slipping, falling on the hands,
pulling a limb, &c. &c. The most common are those of the ankle and
wrist. These accidents are more serious than people generally suppose,
and often more difficult to cure than a broken log or arm. The first
thing to be done is to place the sprained part in the straight position,
and to raise it a little as well. Some recommend the application of cold
lotions at first. The editress, however, is quite convinced that warm
applications are, in most cases, the best for for the first three or
four days. These fomentations are to be applied in the following
manner:--Dip a good-sized piece of flannel into a pail or basin full of
hot water or hot poppy fomentation,--six poppy heads boiled in one quart
of water for about a quarter of an hour; wring it almost dry, and apply
it, as hot as the patient can bear, right round the sprained part. Then
place another piece of flannel, quite dry, over it, in order that the
steam and warmth may not escape. This process should be repeated as
often as the patient feels that the flannel next to his skin is getting
cold--the oftener the better. The bowels should be opened with a black
draught, and the patient kept on low diet. If he has been a great
drinker, he may be allowed to take a little beer; but it is better not
to do so. A little of the cream of tartar drink, ordered in the case of
burns, may be taken occasionally if there is much thirst. When the
swelling and tenderness about the joint are very great, from eight to
twelve leeches may be applied. When the knee is the joint affected, the
greatest pain is felt at the inside, and therefore the greater quantity
of the leeches should be applied to that part. When the shoulder is
sprained, the arm should be kept close to the body by means of a linen
roller, which is to be taken four or five times round the whole of the
chest. It should also be brought two or three times underneath the
elbow, in order to raise the shoulder. This is the best treatment for
these accidents during the first three or four days. After that time,
supposing that no unfavourable symptoms have taken place, a cold lotion,
composed of a tablespoonful of sal-ammoniac to a quart of water, or
vinegar-and-water, should be constantly applied. This lotion will
strengthen the part, and also help in taking away any thickening that
may have formed about the joint. In the course of two or three weeks,
according to circumstances, the joint is to be rubbed twice a day with
flannel dipped in opodeldoc, a flannel bandage rolled tightly round the
joint, the pressure being greatest at the lowest part, and the patient
allowed to walk about with the assistance of a crutch or stick. He
should also occasionally, when sitting or lying down, quietly bend the
joint backwards and forwards, to cause its natural motion to return, and
to prevent stiffness from taking place. When the swelling is very great
immediately after the accident has occurred, from the breaking of the
blood-vessels, it is best to apply cold applications at first. If it can
be procured, oil-silk may be put over the warm-fomentation flannel,
instead of the dry piece of flannel. Old flannel is better than new.

2672. CURE FOR STAMMERING.--Where there is no malformation of the organs
of articulation, stammering may be remedied by reading aloud with the
teeth closed. This should be practised for two hours a day, for three or
four months. The advocate of this simple remedy says, "I can speak with
certainty of its utility."

2673. STAMMERING.--At a recent meeting of the Boston Society of Natural
History, Dr. Warren stated, "A simple, easy, and effectual cure of
stammering." It is, simply, at every syllable pronounced, to tap at the
same time with the finger; by so doing, "the most inveterate stammerer
will be surprised to find that he can pronounce quite fluently, and, by
long and constant practice, he will pronounce perfectly well."

2674. SUFFOCATION, APPARENT.--Suffocation may arise from many different
causes. Anything which prevents the air getting into the lungs will
produce it. We shall give the principal causes, and the treatment to be
followed in each case.

2675. 1. _Carbonic Acid Gas. Choke-Damp of Mines_.--This poisonous gas
is met with in rooms where charcoal is burnt, and where there is not
sufficient draught to allow it to escape; in coalpits, near limekilns,
in breweries, and in rooms and houses where a great many people live
huddled together in wretchedness and filth, and where the air in
consequence becomes poisoned. This gas gives out no smell, so that we
cannot know of its presence. A candle will not burn in a room which
contains much of it.--_Effects_. At first there is giddiness, and a
great wish to sleep; after a little time, or where there is much of it
present, a person feels great weight in the head, and stupid; gets by
degrees quite unable to move, and snores as if in a deep sleep. The
limbs may or may not be stiff. The heat of the body remains much the
same at first.--_Treatment_. Remove the person affected into the open
air, and, even though it is cold weather, take off his clothes. Then lay
him on his back, with his head slightly raised. Having done this, dash
vinegar-and-water over the whole of the body, and rub it hard,
especially the face and chest, with towels dipped in the same mixture.
The hands and feet also should be rubbed with a hard brush. Apply
smelling-salts to the nose, which may be tickled with a feather. Dashing
cold water down the middle of the back is of great service. If the
person can swallow, give him a little lemon-water, or vinegar-and-water
to drink. The principal means, however, to be employed in this, as, in
fact, in most cases of apparent suffocation, is what is called
_artificial breathing_. This operation should be performed by three
persons, and in the following manner:--The first person should put the
nozzle of a common pair of bellows into one of the patient's nostrils;
the second should push down, and then thrust back, that part of the
throat called "Adam's apple;" and the third should first raise and then
depress the chest, one hand being placed over each side of the ribs.
These three actions should be performed in the following order:--First
of all, the throat should be drawn down and thrust back; then the chest
should be raised, and the bellows gently blown into the nostril.
Directly this is done, the chest should be depressed, so as to imitate
common breathing. This process should be repeated about eighteen times a
minute. The mouth and the other nostril should be closed while the
bellows are being blown. Persevere, if necessary, with this treatment
for seven or eight hours--in fact, till absolute signs of death are
visible. Many lives are lost by giving it up too quickly. When the
patient becomes roused, he is to be put into a warm bed, and a little
brandy-and-water, or twenty drops of sal-volatile, given cautiously now
and then. This treatment is to be adopted in all cases where people are
affected from breathing bad air, smells, &c. &c.

2676. 2. _Drowning_.--This is one of the most frequent causes of death
by suffocation.--Treatment. Many methods have been adopted, and as some
of them are not only useless, but hurtful, we will mention them here,
merely in order that they may be avoided. In the first place, then,
never hang a person up by his heels, as it is an error to suppose that
water gets into the lungs. Hanging a person up by his heels would be
quite as bad as hanging him up by his neck. It is also a mistake to
suppose that rubbing the body with salt and water is of
service.--_Proper Treatment_. Directly a person has been taken out of
the water, he should be wiped dry and wrapped in blankets; but if these
cannot be obtained, the clothes of the bystanders must be used for the
purpose. His head being slightly raised, and any water, weeds, or froth
that may happen to be in his mouth, having been removed, he should be
carried as quickly as possible to the nearest house. He should now be
put into a warm bath, about as hot as the hand can pleasantly bear, and
kept there for about ten minutes, artificial breathing being had
recourse to while he is in it. Having been taken out of the bath, he
should be placed flat on his back, with his head slightly raised, upon a
warm bed in a warm room, wiped perfectly dry, and then rubbed constantly
all over the body with warm flannels. At the same time, mustard
poultices should be put to the soles of the feet, the palms of the
hands, and the inner surface of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks, or
bottles filled with warm water, should be placed under the armpits. The
nose should be tickled with a feather, and smelling-salts applied to it.
This treatment should be adopted while the bath is being got ready, as
well as when the body has been taken out of it. The bath is not
absolutely necessary; constantly rubbing the body with flannels in a
warm room having been found sufficient for resuscitation. Sir B. Brodie
says that warm air is quite as good as warm water. When symptoms of
returning consciousness begin to show themselves, give a little wine,
brandy, or twenty drops of sal-volatile and water. In some cases it is
necessary, in about twelve or twenty-four hours after the patient has
revived, to bleed him, for peculiar head-symptoms which now and then
occur. Bleeding, however, even in the hands of professional men
themselves, should be very cautiously used--non-professional ones should
never think of it. The best thing to do in these cases is to keep the
head well raised, and cool with a lotion such as that recommended above
for sprains; to administer an aperient draught, and to abstain from
giving anything that stimulates, such as wine, brandy, sal-volatile, &c.
&c. As a general rule, a person dies in three minutes and a half after
he has been under water. It is difficult, however, to tell how long he
has actually been _under_ it, although we may know well exactly how long
he has been _in_ it. This being the case, always persevere in your
attempts at resuscitation until actual signs of death have shown
themselves, even for six, eight, or ten hours. Dr. Douglas, of Glasgow,
resuscitated a person who had been under water for fourteen minutes, by
simply rubbing the whole of his body with warm flannels, in a warm room,
for eight hours and a half, at the end of which time the person began to
show the _first_ symptoms of returning animation. Should the accident
occur at a great distance from any house, this treatment should be
adopted as closely as the circumstances will permit of. Breathing
through any tube, such as a piece of card or paper rolled into the form
of a pipe, will do as a substitute for the bellows. To recapitulate: Rub
the body dry; take matters out of mouth; cover with blankets or clothes;
slightly raise the head, and place the body in a warm bath, or on a bed
in a warm room; apply smelling-salts to nose; employ artificial
breathing; rub well with warm flannels; put mustard poultices to feet,
hands, and insides of thighs and legs, with warm bricks or bottles to
armpits. _Don't bleed_. Give wine, brandy, or sal-volatile when
recovering, and _persevere till actual signs of death are seen._

2677. Briefly to conclude what we have to say of suffocation, let us
treat of _Lightning_. When a person has been struck by lightning, there
is a general paleness of the whole body, with the exception of the part
struck, which is often blackened, or even scorched.--_Treatment_. Same
as for drowning. It is not, however, of much use; for when death takes
place at all, it is generally instantaneous.

2678. CURE FOR THE TOOTHACHE.--Take a piece of sheet zinc, about the
size of a sixpence, and a piece of silver, say a shilling; place them
together, and hold the defective tooth between them or contiguous to
them; in a few minutes the pain will be gone, as if by magic. The zinc
and silver, acting as a galvanic battery, will produce on the nerves of
the tooth sufficient electricity to establish a current, and
consequently to relieve the pain. Or smoke a pipe of tobacco and
caraway-seeds. Again--

2679. A small piece of the pellitory root will, by the flow of saliva it
causes, afford relief. Creosote, or a few drops of tincture of myrrh, or
friar's balsam, on cotton, put on the tooth, will often subdue the pain.
A small piece of camphor, however, retained in the mouth, is the most
reliable and likely means of conquering the paroxysms of this dreaded
enemy.

2680. WARTS.--Eisenberg says, in his "Advice on the Hand," that the
hydrochlorate of lime is the most certain means of destroying warts; the
process, however, is very slow, and demands perseverance, for, if
discontinued before the proper time, no advantage is gained. The
following is a simple cure:--On breaking the stalk of the crowfoot plant
in two, a drop of milky juice will be observed to hang on the upper part
of the stem; if this be allowed to drop on a wart, so that it be well
saturated with the juice, in about three or four dressings the warts
will die, and may be taken off with the fingers. They may be removed by
the above means from the teats of cows, where they are sometimes very
troublesome, and prevent them standing quiet to be milked. The wart
touched lightly every second day with lunar caustic, or rubbed every
night with blue-stone, for a few weeks, will destroy the largest wart,
wherever situated.

2681. To CURE A WHITLOW.--As soon as the whitlow has risen distinctly, a
pretty large piece should be snipped out, so that the watery matter may
readily escape, and continue to flow out as fast as produced. A
bread-and-water poultice should be put on for a few days, when the wound
should be bound up lightly with some mild ointment, when a cure will be
speedily completed. Constant poulticing both before and after the
opening of the whitlow, is the only practice needed; but as the matter
lies deep, when it is necessary to open the abscess, the incision must
be made _deep_ to reach the suppuration.

2682. WOUNDS.--There are several kinds of wounds, which are called by
different names, according to their appearance, or the manner in which
they are produced. As, however, it would be useless, and even hurtful,
to bother the reader's head with too many nice professional
distinctions, we shall content ourselves with dividing wounds into three
classes.

2683. 1. _Incised wounds or cuts_--those produced by a knife, or some
sharp instrument.

2684. 2. _Lacerated, or torn wounds_--those produced by the claws of an
animal, the bite of a dog, running quickly against some projecting blunt
object, such as a nail, &c.

2685. 3. _Punctured or penetrating wounds_--those produced by anything
running deeply into the flesh; such as a sword, a sharp nail, a spike,
the point of a bayonet, &c.

2686. Class 1. _Incised wounds or cuts_.--The danger arising from these
accidents is owing more to their position than to their extent. Thus, a
cut of half an inch long, which goes through an artery, is more serious
than a cut of two inches long, which is not near one. Again, a small cut
on the head is more often followed by dangerous symptoms than a much
larger one on the legs.--_Treatment_. If the cut is not a very large
one, and no artery or vein is wounded, this is very simple. If there are
any foreign substances left in the wound, they must be taken out, and
the bleeding must be quite stopped before the wound is strapped up. If
the bleeding is not very great, it may easily be stopped by raising the
cut part, and applying rags dipped in cold water to it. All clots of
blood must be carefully removed; for, if they are left behind, they
prevent the wound from healing. When the bleeding has been stopped, and
the wound perfectly cleaned, its two edges are to be brought closely
together by thin straps of common adhesive plaster, which should remain
on, if there is not great pain or heat about the part, for two or three
days, without being removed. The cut part should be kept raised and
cool. When the strips of plaster are to be taken off, they should first
be well bathed with lukewarm water. This will cause them to come away
easily, and without opening the lips of the wound; which accident is
very likely to take place, if they are pulled off without having been
first moistened with the warm water. If the wound is not healed when the
strips of plaster are taken off, fresh ones must be applied. Great care
is required in treating cuts of the head, as they are often followed by
erysipelas taking place round them. They should be strapped with
isinglass plaster, which is much less irritating than the ordinary
adhesive plaster. Only use as many strips as are actually requisite to
keep the two edges of the wound together; keep the patient quite quiet,
on low diet, for a week or so, according to his symptoms. Purge him well
with the No. 2 pills (five grains of blue pill mixed with the same
quantity of compound extract of colocynth; make into two pills, the dose
for an adult). If the patient is feverish, give him two tablespoonfuls
of the fever-mixture three times a day. (The fever-mixture, we remind
our readers, is thus made: Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms of
carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a
tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre in half a pint of water.) A
person should be very careful of himself for a month or two after having
had a bad cut on the head. His bowels should be kept constantly open,
and all excitement and excess avoided. When a vein or artery is wounded,
the danger is, of course, much greater. Those accidents, therefore,
should always be attended to by a surgeon, if he can possibly be
procured. Before he arrives, however, or in case his assistance cannot
be obtained at all, the following treatment should be adopted:--Raise
the cut part, and press rags dipped in cold water firmly against it.
This will often be sufficient to stop the bleeding, if the divided
artery or vein is not dangerous. When an artery is divided, the blood is
of a bright red colour, and comes away in jets. In this case, and
supposing the leg or arm to be the cut part, a handkerchief is to be
tied tightly round the limb _above_ the cut; and, if possible, the two
bleeding ends of the artery should each be tied with a piece of silk. If
the bleeding is from a vein, the blood is much darker, and does not come
away in jets. In this case, the handkerchief is to be tied _below_ the
cut, and a pad of lint or linen pressed firmly against the divided ends
of the vein. Let every bad cut, especially where there is much bleeding,
and even although it may to all appearance have been stopped, be
attended to by a surgeon, if one can by any means be obtained.

2687. Class 2. _Lacerated or torn wounds_.--There is not so much
bleeding in these cases as in clean cuts, because the blood-vessels are
torn across in a zigzag manner, and not divided straight across. In
other respects, however, they are more serious than ordinary cuts, being
often followed by inflammation, mortification, fever, and in some cases
by locked-jaw. Foreign substances are also more likely to remain in
them.--_Treatment_. Stop the bleeding, if there is any, in the manner
directed for cuts; remove all substances that may be in the wound; keep
the patient quite quiet, and on low diet--gruel, arrowroot, and the
like; purge with the No. 1 pills and the No. 1 mixture. (The No. 1 pill:
Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder, with
a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills, which is the dose for an
adult. The No. 1 mixture: Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in half a
pint of senna tea. A quarter of the mixture is a dose.) If there are
feverish symptoms, give two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture (see above)
every four hours. If possible, bring the two edges of the wound
together, _but do not strain the parts to do this_. If they cannot be
brought together, on account of a piece of flesh being taken clean out,
or the raggedness of their edges, put lint dipped in cold water over the
wound, and cover it with oiled silk. It will then fill up from the
bottom. If the wound, after being well washed, should still contain any
sand, or grit of any kind, or if it should get red and hot from
inflammation, a large warm bread poultice will be the best thing to
apply until it becomes quite clean, or the inflammation goes down. When
the wound is a very large one, the application of warm poppy
fomentations is better than that of the lint dipped in cold water. If
the redness and pain about the part, and the general feverish symptoms,
are great, from eight to twelve leeches are to be applied round the
wound, and a warm poppy fomentation or warm bread poultice applied after
they drop off.

2688. Class 3. _Punctured or penetrating wounds_.--These, for many
reasons, are the most serious of all kinds of wounds.--_Treatment_. The
same as that for lacerated wounds. Pus (matter) often forms at the
bottom of these wounds, which should, therefore, be kept open at the
top, by separating their edges every morning with a bodkin, and applying
a warm bread poultice immediately afterwards. They will then, in all
probability, heal up from the bottom, and any matter which may form will
find its own way out into the poultice. Sometimes, however, in spite of
all precautions, collections of matter (abscesses) will form at the
bottom or sides of the wound. Those are to be opened with a lancet, and
the matter thus let out. When matter is forming, the patient has cold
shiverings, throbbing pain in the part, and flushes on the face, which
come and go. A swelling of the part is also often seen. The matter in
the abscesses may be felt to move backwards and forwards, when pressure
is made from one side of the swelling to the other with the first and
second fingers (the middle and that next the thumb) of each hand.

MEDICAL MEMORANDA.

2689. ADVANTAGES OF CLEANLINESS.--Health and strength cannot be long
continued unless the skin--_all_ the skin--is washed frequently with a
sponge or other means. Every morning is best; after which the skin
should be rubbed very well with a rough cloth. This is the most certain
way of preventing cold, and a little substitute for exercise, as it
brings blood to the surface, and causes it to circulate well through the
fine capillary vessels. Labour produces this circulation naturally. The
insensible perspiration cannot escape well if the skin is not clean, as
the pores get choked up. It is said that in health about half the
aliment we take passes out through the skin.

2690. THE TOMATO MEDICINAL.--To many persons there is something
unpleasant, not to say offensive, in the flavour of this excellent
fruit. It has, however, long been used for culinary purposes in various
countries of Europe. Dr. Bennett, a professor of some celebrity,
considers it an invaluable article of diet, and ascribes to it very
important medicinal properties. He declares:--1. That the tomato is one
of the most powerful deobstruents of the _materia medica_; and that, in
all those affections of the liver and other organs where calomel is
indicated, it is probably the most effective and least harmful remedial
agent known in the profession. 2. That a chemical extract can be
obtained from it, which will altogether supersede the use of calomel in
the cure of diseases. 3. That he has successfully treated diarrhoea with
this article alone. 4. That when used as an article of diet, it is
almost a sovereign remedy for dyspepsia and indigestion.

2691. WARM WATER.--Warm water is preferable to cold water, as a drink,
to persons who are subject to dyspeptic and bilious complaints, and it
may be taken more freely than cold water, and consequently answers
better as a diluent for carrying off bile, and removing obstructions in
the urinary secretion, in cases of stone and gravel. When water of a
temperature equal to that of the human body is used for drink, it proves
considerably stimulant, and is particularly suited to dyspeptic,
bilious, gouty, and chlorotic subjects.

2692. CAUTIONS IN VISITING SICK-ROOMS.--Never venture into a sick-room
if you are in a violent perspiration (if circumstances require your
continuance there), for the moment your body becomes cold, it is in a
state likely to absorb the infection, and give you the disease. Nor
visit a sick person (especially if the complaint be of a contagious
nature) with _an empty stomach_; as this disposes the system more
readily to receive the contagion. In attending a sick person, place
yourself where the air passes from the door or window to the bed of the
diseased, not betwixt the diseased person and any fire that is in the
room, as the heat of the fire will draw the infectious vapour in that
direction, and you would run much danger from breathing it.

2693. NECESSITY OF GOOD VENTILATION IN ROOMS LIGHTED WITH GAS.--In
dwelling-houses lighted by gas, the frequent renewal of the air is of
great importance. A single gas-burner will consume more oxygen, and
produce more carbonic acid to deteriorate the atmosphere of a room, than
six or eight candles. If, therefore, when several burners are used, no
provision is made for the escape of the corrupted air and for the
introduction of pure air from without, the health will necessarily
suffer.




LEGAL MEMORANDA.


CHAPTER XLIV.


2694. Humorists tell us there is no act of our lives which can be
performed without breaking through some one of the many meshes of the
law by which our rights are so carefully guarded; and those learned in
the law, when they do give advice without the usual fee, and in the
confidence of friendship, generally say, "Pay, pay anything rather than
go to law;" while those having experience in the courts of Themis have a
wholesome dread of its pitfalls. There are a few exceptions, however, to
this fear of the law's uncertainties; and we hear of those to whom a
lawsuit is on agreeable relaxation, a gentle excitement. One of this
class, when remonstrated with, retorted, that while one friend kept
dogs, and another horses, he, as he had a right to do, kept a lawyer;
and no one had a right to dispute his taste. We cannot pretend, in these
few pages, to lay down even the principles of law, not to speak of its
contrary exposition in different courts; but there are a few acts of
legal import which all men--and women too--must perform; and to these
acts we may be useful in giving a right direction. There is a house to
be leased or purchased, servants to be engaged, a will to be made, or
property settled, in all families; and much of the welfare of its
members depends on these things being done in proper legal form.

2695. PURCHASING A HOUSE.--Few men will venture to purchase a freehold,
or even a leasehold property, by private contract, without making
themselves acquainted with the locality, and employing a solicitor to
examine the titles,; but many do walk into an auction-room, and bid for
a property upon the representations of the auctioneer. The conditions,
whatever they are, will bind him; for by one of the legal fictions of
which we have still so many, the auctioneer, who is in reality the agent
for the vendor, becomes also the agent for the buyer, and by putting
down the names of bidders and the biddings, he binds him to whom the lot
is knocked down to the sale and the conditions,--the falling of the
auctioneer's hammer is the acceptance of the offer, which completes the
agreement to purchase. In any such transaction you can only look at the
written or printed particulars; any verbal statement of the auctioneer,
made at the time of the sale, cannot contradict them, and they are
implemented by the agreement, which the auctioneer calls on the
purchaser to sign after the sale. You should sign no such contract
without having a duplicate of it signed by the auctioneer, and delivered
to you. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that no trustee or assignee
can purchase property for himself included in the trust, even at
auction; nor is it safe to pay the purchase money to an agent of the
vendor, unless he give a written authority to the agent to receive it,
besides handing over the requisite deeds and receipts.

2696. The laws of purchase and sale of property are so complicated that
Lord St. Leonards devotes five chapters of his book on Property Law to
the subject. The only circumstances strong enough to vitiate a purchase,
which has been reduced to a written contract, is proof of fraudulent
representation as to an encumbrance of which the buyer was ignorant, or
a defect in title; but every circumstance which the purchaser might have
learned by careful investigation, the law presumes that he did know.
Thus, in buying a leasehold estate or house, all the covenants of the
original lease are presumed to be known. "It is not unusual," says Lord
St. Leonards, "to stipulate, in conditions of sale of leasehold
property, that the production of a receipt for the last year's rent
shall be accepted as proof that all the lessor's covenants were
performed up to that period. Never bid for one clogged with such a
condition. There are some acts against which no relief can be obtained;
for example, the tenant's right to insure, or his insuring in an office
or in names not authorized in the lease. And you should not rely upon
the mere fact of the insurance being correct at the time of sale: there
may have been a prior breach of covenant, and the landlord may not have
waived his right of entry for the forfeiture." And where any doubt of
this kind exists, the landlord should be appealed to.

2697. Interest on a purchase is due from the day fixed upon for
completing: where it cannot be completed, the loss rests with the party
with whom the delay rests; but it appears, when the delay rests with the
seller, and the money is lying idle, notice of that is to be given to
the seller to make him liable to the loss of interest. In law, the
property belongs to the purchaser from the date of the contract; he is
entitled to any benefit, and must bear any loss; the seller may suffer
the insurance to drop without giving notice; and should a fire take
place, the loss falls on the buyer. In agreeing to buy a house,
therefore, provide at the same time for its insurance. Common fixtures
pass with the house, where nothing is said about them.

2698. There are some well-recognized laws, of what may be called
good-neighbourhood, which affect all properties. If you purchase a field
or house, the seller retaining another field between yours and the
highway, he must of necessity grant you a right of way. Where the owner
of more than one house sells one of them, the purchaser is entitled to
benefit by all drains leading from his house into other drains, and will
be subject to all necessary drains for the adjoining houses, although
there is no express reservation as to drains.

Thus, if his happens to be a leading drain, other necessary drains may
be opened into it. In purchasing land for building on, you should
expressly reserve a right to make an opening into any sewer or
watercourse on the vendor's land for drainage purposes.

2699. CONSTRUCTIONS.--Among the cautions which purchasers of houses,
land, or leaseholds, should keep in view, is a not inconsiderable array
of _constructive_ notices, which are equally binding with actual ones.
Notice to your attorney or agent is notice to you; and when the same
attorney is employed by both parties, and he is aware of an encumbrance
of which you are ignorant, you are bound by it; even where the vendor is
guilty of a fraud to which your agent is privy, you are responsible, and
cannot be released from the consequences.

2700. THE RELATIONS OF LANDLORD AND TENANT are most important to both
parties, and each should clearly understand his position. The proprietor
of a house, or house and land, agrees to let it either to a
tenant-at-will, a yearly tenancy, or under lease. A tenancy-at-will may
be created by parol or by agreement; and as the tenant may be turned out
when his landlord pleases, so he may leave when he himself thinks
proper; but this kind of tenancy is extremely inconvenient to both
parties. Where an annual rent is attached to the tenancy, in
construction of law, a lease or agreement without limitation to any
certain period is a lease from year to year, and both landlord and
tenant are entitled to notice before the tenancy can be determined by
the other. This notice must be given at least six months before the
expiration of the current year of the tenancy, and it can only terminate
at the end of any whole year from the time at which it began; so that
the tenant entering into possession at Midsummer, the notice must be
given to or by him, so as to terminate at the same term. When once he is
in possession, he has a right to remain for a whole year; and if no
notice be given at the end of the first half-year of his tenancy, he
will have to remain two years, and so on for any number of years.

2701. TENANCY BY SUFFERANCE.--This is a tenancy, not very uncommon,
arising out of the unwillingness of either party to take the initiative
in a more decided course at the expiry of a lease or agreement. The
tenant remains in possession, and continues to pay rent as before, and
becomes, from sufferance, a tenant from year to year, which can only be
terminated by one party or the other giving the necessary six months'
notice to quit at the term corresponding with the commencement of the
original tenancy. This tenancy at sufferance applies also to an
under-tenant, who remains in possession and pays rent to the reversioner
or head landlord. A six months' notice will be insufficient for this
tenancy. A notice was given (in Right v. Darby, I.T.R. 159) to quit a
house held by plaintiff as tenant from year to year, on the 17th June,
1840, requiring him "to quit the premises on the 11th October following,
or such other day as his said tenancy might expire." The tenancy had
commenced on the 11th October in a former year, but it was held that
this was not a good notice for the year ending October 11, 1841. A
tenant from year to year gave his landlord notice to quit, ending the
tenancy at a time within the half-year; the landlord acquiesced at
first, but afterwards refused to accept the notice. The tenant quitted
the premises; the landlord entered, and even made some repairs, but it
was afterwards held that the tenancy was not determined. A notice to
quit must be such as the tenant may safely act on at the time of
receiving it; therefore it can only be given by an agent properly
authorized at the time, and cannot be made good by the landlord adopting
it afterwards. An unqualified notice, given at the proper time, should
conclude with "On failure whereof, I shall require you to pay me double
the former rent for so long as you retain possession."

2702. LEASES.--A lease is an instrument in writing, by which one person
grants to another the occupation and use of lands or tenements for a
term of years for a consideration, the lessor granting the lease, and
the lessee accepting it with all its conditions. A lessor may grant the
lease for any term less than his own interest. A tenant for life in an
estate can only grant a lease for his own life. A tenant for life,
having power to grant a lease, should grant it only in the terms of the
power, otherwise the lease is void, and his estate may be made to pay
heavy penalties under the covenant, usually the only one onerous on the
lessor, for quiet enjoyment. The proprietor of a freehold--that is, of
the possession in perpetuity of lands or tenements--may grant a lease
for 999 years, for 99 years, or for 3 years. In the latter case, the
lease may be either verbal or in writing, no particular form and no
stamps being necessary, except the usual stamp on agreements; so long as
the intention of the parties is clearly expressed, and the covenants
definite, and well understood by each party, the agreement is complete,
and the law satisfied. In the case of settled estates, the court of
Chancery is empowered to authorize leases under the 19 & 20 Vict. c.
120, and 21 & 22 Vict. c. 77, as follows:--

  21 years for agriculture or occupation.
  40 years for water-power.
  99 years for building-leases.
  60 years for repairing-leases.

2703. A lessor may also grant an under-lease for a term less than his
own: to grant the whole of his term would be an assignment. Leases are
frequently burdened with a covenant not to underlet without the consent
of the landlord: this is a covenant sometimes very onerous, and to be
avoided, where it is possible, by a prudent lessee.

2704. A lease for any term beyond three years, whether an actual lease
or an agreement for one, must be in the form of a deed; that is, it must
be "under seal;" and all assignments and surrenders of leases must be in
the same form, or they are _void at law_. Thus an agreement made by
letter, or by a memorandum of agreement, which would be binding in most
cases, would be valueless when it was for a lease, unless witnessed, and
given under hand and seal. The last statute, 8 & 9 Vict. c. 106, under
which these precautions became necessary, has led to serious
difficulties. "The judges," says Lord St. Leonards, "feel the difficulty
of holding a lease in writing, but not by deed, to be altogether void,
and consequently decided, that although such a lease is void under the
statute, yet it so far regulates the holding, that it creates a tenancy
from year to year, terminable by half a year's notice; and if the tenure
endure for the term attempted to be created by the void lease, the
tenant may be evicted at the end of the term without any notice to
quit." An agreement for a lease not by deed has been construed to be a
lease for a term of years, and consequently void under the statute; "and
yet," says Lord St. Leonards, "a court of equity has held that it may be
specifically enforced as an agreement upon the terms stated." The law on
this point is one of glorious uncertainty; in making any such agreement,
therefore, we should be careful to express that it is an agreement, and
not a lease; and that it is witnessed and under seal.

2705. AGREEMENTS.--It is usual, where the lease is a repairing one, to
agree for a lease to be granted on completion of repairs according to
specification. This agreement should contain the names and designation
of the parties, a description of the property, and the term of the
intended lease, and all the covenants which are to be inserted, as no
verbal agreement can be made to a written agreement. It should also
declare that the instrument is an agreement for a lease, and not the
lease itself. The points to be settled in such an agreement are, the
rent, term, and especially covenants for insuring and rebuilding in the
event of a fire; and if it is intended that the lessor's consent is to
be obtained before assigning or underleasing, a covenant to that effect
is required in the agreement. In building-leases, usually granted for 99
years, the tenant is to insure the property; and even where the
agreement is silent on that point, the law decides it so. It is
otherwise with ordinary tenements, when the tenant pays a full, or what
the law terms rack-rent; the landlord is then to insure, unless it is
otherwise arranged by the agreement.

2706. It is important for lessee, and lessor, also, that the latter does
not exceed his powers. A lease granted by a tenant for life before he is
properly in possession, is void in law; for, although a court of equity,
according to Lord St. Leonards, will, "by force of its own jurisdiction,
support a _bonâ fide_ lease, granted under a power which is merely
erroneous in form or ceremonies," and the 12 & 13 Vict. c. 26, and 13 &
14 Vict. c. 19, compel a new lease to be granted with the necessary
variations, while the lessor has no power to compel him to accept such a
lease, except when the person in remainder is competent and willing to
confirm the original lease without variations, yet all these
difficulties involve both delay, costs, and anxieties.

2707. In husbandry leases, a covenant to cultivate the land in a
husbandlike manner, and according to the custom of the district, is
always implied; but it is more usual to prescribe the course of tillage
which is to be pursued. In the case of houses for occupation, the tenant
would have to keep the house in a tenantable state of repair during the
term, and deliver it up in like condition. This is not the case with the
tenant at will, or from year to year, where the landlord has to keep the
house in tenantable repair, and the tenant is only liable for waste
beyond reasonable wear and tear.

2708. INSURANCE.--Every lease, or agreement for a lease, should covenant
not only who is to pay insurance, but how the tenement is to be rebuilt
in the event of a fire; for if the house were burnt down, and no
provision made for insurance, the tenant, supposing there was the
ordinary covenant to repair in the lease, would not only have to
rebuild, but to pay rent while it was being rebuilt. More than this,
supposing, under the same lease, the landlord had taken the precaution
of insuring, he is not compelled to lay out the money recovered in
rebuilding the premises. Sir John Leach lays it down, that "the tenant's
situation could not be changed by a precaution, on the part of the
landlord, with which he had nothing to do." This decision Lord Campbell
confirmed in a more recent case, in which an action was brought against
a lessee who was not bound to repair, and neither he nor the landlord
bound to insure; admitting an equitable defence, the court affirmed Sir
John Leach's decision, holding that the tenant was bound to pay the
rent, and could not require the landlord to lay out the insurance money
in rebuilding. This is opposed to the opinion of Lord St. Leonards, who
admits, however, that the decision of the court must overrule his
_dictum_. Such being the state of the law, it is very important that
insurance should be provided for, and that the payment of rent should be
made to depend upon rebuilding the house in the event of a fire. Care
must be taken, however, that this is made a covenant of the lease, as
well as in the agreement, otherwise the tenant must rebuild the house.

2709. The law declares that a tenant is not bound to repair damages by
tempest, lightning, or other natural casualty, unless there is a special
covenant to that effect in the lease; but if there is a general covenant
to repair, the repair will fall upon the tenant. Lord Kenyon lays it
down, in the case of a bridge destroyed by a flood, the tenant being
under a general covenant to repair, that, "where a party, by his own
contract, creates a duty or charge upon himself, he is bound to make it
good, because he might have guarded against it in the contract." The
same principle of law has been applied to a house destroyed by
lightning. It is, therefore, important to have this settled in the
insurance clause.

2710. Lord St. Leonards asserts that "his policies against fire are not
so framed as to render the company _legally_ liable." Generally the
property is inaccurately described with reference to the conditions
under which you insure. They are framed by companies who, probably, are
not unwilling to have a legal defence against any claim, as they intend
to pay what they deem just claim without taking advantage of any
technical objection, and intending to make use of their defence only
against what they believe to be a fraud, although they may not be able
to prove it. "But," says his lordship, "do not rely upon the moral
feelings of the directors. Ascertain that your house falls strictly
within the conditions. Even having the surveyor of the company to look
over your house before the insurance will not save you, unless your
policy is correct." This is true; but probably his lordship's legal
jealousy overshoots the mark here. Assurance companies only require an
honest statement of the facts, and that no concealment is practised with
their surveyor; and the case of his own, which he quotes, in which a
glass door led into a conservatory, rendering it, according to the view
of the company, "hazardous," and consequently voiding the policy, when a
fire did occur, the company paid, rather than try the question; but even
after the fire they demurred, when called upon, to make the description
correct and indorse on the policy the fact that the drawing-room opened
through a glass door into conservatories. One of two inferences is
obvious here; either his lordship has overcoloured the statement, or the
company could not be the respectable one represented. The practice with
all reputable offices is to survey the premises before insurance, and to
describe them as they appear; but no concealment of stoves, or other
dangerous accessories or inflammable goods, should be practised. This
certainly binds the office so long as no change takes place; but the
addition of any stove, opening, or door through a party wall, the
introduction of gunpowder, saltpetre, or other inflammable articles into
the premises without notice, very properly "voids the policy." The usual
course is to give notice of all alterations, and have them indorse on
the policy, as additions to the description of the property: there is
little fear, where this is honestly done, that any company would adopt
the sharp practice hinted at in Lord St. Leonards' excellent handy book.

2711. BREAKS IN THE LEASE.--Where a lease is for seven, fourteen, or
twenty-one years, the option to determine it at the end of the first
term is in the tenant, unless it is distinctly agreed that the option
shall be mutual, according to Lord St. Leonards.

2712. NOXIOUS TRADES.--A clause is usually introduced prohibiting the
carrying on of any trade in some houses, and of noxious or particular
trades in others. This clause should be jealously inspected, otherwise
great annoyance may be produced. It has been held that a general clause
of this description prohibited a tenant from keeping a school, for which
he had taken it, although a lunatic asylum and public-house have been
found admissible; the keeping an asylum not being deemed a trade, which
is defined as "conducted by buying and selling." It is better to have
the trades, or class of trades objected to, defined in the lease.

2713. FIXTURES.--In houses held under lease, it has been the practice
with landlords to lease the bare walls of the tenement only, leaving the
lessee to put in the stoves, cupboards, and such other conveniences as
he requires, at his own option. Those, except under particular
circumstances, are the property of the lessee, and may either be sold to
an incoming tenant, or removed at the end of his term. The articles
which may not be removed are subject to considerable doubt, and are a
fruitful source of dispute. Mr. Commissioner Fonblanque has defined as
tenants' property all goods and chattels; 2ndly, all articles "slightly
connected one with another, and with the freehold, but capable of being
separated without materially injuring the freehold;" 3rdly, articles
fixed to the freehold by nails and screws, bolts or pegs, are also
tenants' goods and chattels; but when sunk in the soil, or built on it,
they are integral parts of the freehold, and cannot be removed. Thus, a
greenhouse or conservatory attached to the house by the tenant is not
removable; but the furnace and hot-water pipes by which it is heated,
may be removed or sold to the in-coming tenant. A brick flue does not
come under the same category, but remains. Window-blinds, grates,
stoves, coffee-mills, and, in a general sense, everything he has placed
which can be removed without injury to the freehold, he may remove, if
they are separated from the tenement during his term, and the place made
good. It is not unusual to leave the fixtures in their place, with an
undertaking from the landlord that, when again let, the in-coming tenant
shall pay for them, or permit their removal. In a recent case, however,
a tenant having held over beyond his term and not removed his fixtures,
the landlord let the premises to a new tenant, who entered into
possession, and would not allow the fixtures to be removed--it was held
by the courts, on trial, that he was justified. A similar case occurred
to the writer: he left his fixtures in the house, taking a letter from
the landlord, undertaking that the in-coming tenant should pay for them
by valuation, or permit their removal. The house was let; the landlord
died. His executors, on being applied to, pleaded ignorance, as did the
tenant, and on being furnished with a copy of the letter, the executors
told applicant that if he was aggrieved, he knew his remedy; namely, an
action at law. He thought the first loss the least, and has not altered
his opinion.

2714. TAXES.--Land-tax, sewers-rate, and property-tax, are landlord's
taxes; but by 30 Geo. II. c. 2, the occupier is required to pay all
rates levied, and deduct from the rent such taxes as belong to the
landlord. Many landlords now insert a covenant, stipulating that
land-tax and sewers-rate are to be paid by the tenants, and not
deducted: this does not apply to the property-tax. All other taxes and
rates are payable by the occupier.

2715. WATER-RATE, of course, is paid by the tenant. The water-companies,
as well as gas-companies, have the power of cutting off the supply; and
most of them have also the right of distraining, in the same manner as
landlords have for rent.

2716. NOTICE TO QUIT.--In the case of leasing for a term, no notice is
necessary; the tenant quits, as a matter of course, at its termination;
or if, by tacit consent, he remains paying rent as heretofore, he
becomes a tenant at sufferance, or from year to year. Half a year's
notice now becomes necessary, as we have already seen, to terminate the
tenancy; except in London, and the rent is under forty shillings, when a
quarter's notice is sufficient. Either of these notices may be given
verbally, if it can be proved that the notice was definite, and given at
the right time. Form of notice is quite immaterial, provided it is
definite and clear in its purport.

2717. Tenancy for less than a year may be terminated according to the
taking. Thus, when taken for three months, a three months' notice is
required; when monthly, a month's notice; and when weekly, a week's
notice; but weekly tenancy is changed to a quarterly tenure if the rent
is allowed to stand over for three months. When taken for a definite
time, as a month, a week, or a quarter, no notice is necessary on either
side.

2718. DILAPIDATIONS.--At the termination of a lease, supposing he has
not done so before, a landlord can, and usually does, send a surveyor to
report upon the condition of the tenement, and it becomes his duty to
ferret out every defect. A litigious landlord may drag the outgoing
tenant into an expensive lawsuit, which he has no power to prevent. He
may even compel him to pay for repairing improvements which he has
effected in the tenement itself, if dilapidations exist. When the lessor
covenants to do all repairs, and fails to do so, the lessee may repair,
and deduct the cost from the rent.

2719. RECOVERY OF RENT.--The remedies placed in the hands of landlords
are very stringent. The day after rent falls due, he may proceed to
recover it, by action at law, by distress on the premises, or by action
of ejectment, if the rent is half a year in arrear. Distress is the
remedy usually applied, the landlord being authorized to enter the
premises, seize the goods and chattels of his tenant, and sell them, on
the fifth day, to reimburse himself for all arrears of rent and the
charges of the distress. There are a few exceptions; but, generally, all
goods found on the premises may be seized. The exceptions are--dogs,
rabbits, poultry, fish, tools and implements of a man's trade actually
in use, the books of a scholar, the axe of a carpenter, wearing apparel
on the person, a horse at the plough, or a horse he may be riding, a
watch in the pocket, loose money, deeds, writings, the cattle at a
smithy forge, corn sent to a mill for grinding, cattle and goods of a
guest at an inn; but, curiously enough, carriages and horses standing at
livery at the same inn may be taken. Distress can only be levied in the
daytime, and if made after the tender of arrears, it is illegal. If
tender is made after the distress, but before it is _impounded_, the
landlord must abandon the distress and bear the cost himself. Nothing of
a perishable nature, which cannot be restored in the same condition--as
milk, fruit, and the like, must be taken.

2720. The law does not regard a day as consisting of portions. The
popular notion that a notice to quit should be served before noon is an
error. Although distraint is one of the remedies, it is seldom advisable
in a landlord to resort to distraining for the recovery of rent. If a
tenant cannot pay his rent, the sooner he leaves the premises the
better. If he be a rogue and won't pay, he will probably know that nine
out of ten distresses are illegal, through the carelessness, ignorance,
or extortion of the brokers who execute them. Many, if not most, of the
respectable brokers will not execute distresses, and the business falls
into the hands of persons whom it is by no means desirable to employ.

2721. Powers to relieve landlords of premises, by giving them legal
possession, are given by 19 & 20 Vict., cap. 108, to the county courts,
in cases where the rent does not exceed £50 per annum, and under the
circumstances hereinafter mentioned; i.e.:--

    1. Where the term has expired, or been determined by notice to
    quit.

    2. Where there is one half-year's rent in arrear, and _the
    landlord shall have right by law to enter for the nonpayment
    thereof_. As proof of this power is required, the importance of
    including such a power in the agreement for tenancy will be
    obvious.

In the county courts the amount of rent due may be claimed, as well as
the possession of the premises, in one summons.

2722. When a tenant deserts premises, leaving one half-year's rent in
arrear, possession may be recovered by means of the police-court. The
rent must not exceed £20 per annum, and must be at least three-fourths
of the value of the premises. In cases in which the tenant has not
deserted the premises, and where notice to quit has been given and has
expired, the landlord must give notice to the tenant of his intended
application. The annual rent in this case, also, must not exceed £20.

2723. THE I. O. U.--The law is not particular as to orthography; in
fact, it distinctly refuses to recognize the existence of that
delightful science. You may bring your action against Mr. Jacob
Phillips, under the fanciful denomination of Jaycobb Fillipse, if you
like, and the law won't care, because the law goes by ear; and, although
it insists upon having everything written, things written are only
supposed in law to have any meaning when read, which is, after all, a
common-sense rule enough. So, instead of "I owe you," persons of a
cheerful disposition, so frequently found connected with debt, used to
write facetiously I. O. U., and the law approved of their so doing. An
I. O. U. is nothing more than a written admission of a debt, and may run
thus:--

                                           15th October, 1860.
  To Mr. W. BROWN.

                  I. O. U. ten pounds for coals.

  £10.                                            JOHN JONES.

If to this you add the time of payment, as "payable in one month from
this date," your I. O. U. is worthless and illegal; for it thus ceases
to be a mere acknowledgment, and becomes a promissory note. Now a
promissory note requires a stamp, which an I. O. U. does not. Many
persons, nevertheless, stick penny stamps upon them, probably for
ornamental effect, or to make them look serious and authoritative. If
for the former purpose, the postage-stamp looks better than the receipt
stamp upon blue paper. If you are W. Brown, and you didn't see the I. O.
U. signed, and can't find anybody who knows Jones's autograph, and Jones
won't pay, the I. O. U. will be of no use to you in the county court,
except to make the judge laugh. He will, however, allow you to prove the
consideration, and as, of course, you won't be prepared to do anything
of the sort, he will, if you ask him politely, adjourn the hearing for a
week, when you can produce the coalheavers who delivered the article,
and thus gain a glorious victory.

2724. APPRENTICES.--By the statute 5 Eliz. cap. 4, it is enacted that,
in cases of ill-usage by masters towards apprentices, or of neglect of
duty by apprentices, the complaining party may apply to a justice of the
peace, who may make such order as equity may require. If, for want of
conformity on the part of the master, this cannot be done, then the
master may be bound to appear at the next sessions. Authority is given
by the act to the justices in sessions to discharge the apprentice from
his indentures. They are also empowered, on proof of misbehaviour of the
apprentice, to order him to be corrected or imprisoned with hard labour.

2725. HUSBAND AND WIFE.--Contrary to the vulgar opinion, second cousins,
as well as first, may legally marry. When married, a husband is liable
for his wife's debts contracted before marriage. A creditor desirous of
suing for such a claim should proceed against both. It will, however, be
sufficient if the husband be served with process, the names of both
appearing therein, thus:--John Jones and Ann his wife. A married woman,
if sued alone, may plead her marriage, or, as it is called in law,
coverture. The husband is liable for debts of his wife contracted for
necessaries while living with him. If she voluntarily leaves his
protection, this liability ceases. He is also liable for any debts
contracted by her with his authority. If the husband have abjured the
realm, or been transported by a sentence of law, the wife is liable
during his absence, as if she were a single woman, for debts contracted
by her.

2726. In civil cases, a wife may now give evidence on behalf of her
husband in criminal cases she can neither be a witness for or against
her husband. The case of assault by him upon her forms an exception to
this rule.

2727. The law does not at this day admit the ancient principle of
allowing moderate correction by a husband upon the person of his wife.
Although this is said to have been anciently limited to the use of "a
stick not bigger than the thumb," this barbarity is now altogether
exploded. He may, notwithstanding, as has been recently shown in the
famous Agapemone case, keep her under restraint, to prevent her leaving
him, provided this be effected without cruelty.

2728. By the Divorce and Matrimonial Causes Act, 1857, a wife deserted
by her husband may apply to a magistrate, or to the petty sessions, for
an order to protect her lawful earnings or property acquired by her
after such desertion, from her husband and his creditors. In this case
it is indispensable that such order shall, within ten days, be entered
at the county court of the district within which she resides. It will be
seen that the basis of an application for such an order is _desertion_.
Consequently, where the parties have separated by common consent, such
an order cannot be obtained, any previous cruelty or misconduct on the
husband's part notwithstanding.

2729. When a husband allows his wife to invest money in her own name in
a savings-bank, and he survives her, it is sometimes the rule of such
establishments to compel him to take out administration in order to
receive such money, although it is questionable whether such rule is
legally justifiable. Widows and widowers pay no legacy-duty for property
coming to them through their deceased partners.

2730. RECEIPTS for sums above £2 should now be given upon penny stamps.
A bill of exchange may nevertheless be discharged by an indorsement
stating that it has been paid, and this will not be liable to the stamp.
A receipt is not, as commonly supposed, conclusive evidence as to a
payment. It is only what the law terms _primâ facie_ evidence; that is,
good until contradicted or explained. Thus, if A sends wares or
merchandise to B, with a receipt, as a hint that the transaction is
intended to be for ready money, and B detain the receipt without paying
the cash, A will be at liberty to prove the circumstances and to recover
his claim. The evidence to rebut the receipt must, however, be clear and
indubitable, as, after all, written evidence is of a stronger nature
than oral testimony.

2731. BOOKS OF ACCOUNT.--A tradesman's books of account cannot be
received as evidence in his own behalf, unless the entries therein be
proved to have been brought under the notice of, and admitted to be
correct by the other party, as is commonly the case with the
"pass-books" employed backwards and forwards between bakers, butchers,
and the like domestic traders, and their customers. The defendant may,
however, compel the tradesman to produce his books to show entries
adverse to his own claim.

2732. WILLS.--The last proof of affection which we can give to those left
behind, is to leave their worldly affairs in such a state as to excite
neither jealousy, nor anger, nor heartrendings of any kind, at least for
the immediate future. This can only be done by a just, clear, and
intelligible disposal of whatever there is to leave. Without being
advocates for every man being his own lawyer, it is not to be denied
that the most elaborately prepared wills have been the most fruitful
sources of litigation, and it has even happened that learned judges left
wills behind them which could not be carried out. Except in cases where
the property is in land or in leases of complicated tenure, very
elaborate details are unnecessary; and we counsel no man to use words in
making his will of which he does not perfectly understand the meaning
and import.

2733. All men over twenty-one years of age, and of sound mind, and all
unmarried women of like age and sanity, may by will bequeath their
property to whom they please. Infants, that is, all persons under
twenty-one years of age, and married women, except where they have an
estate to their "own separate use," are incapacitated, without the
concurrence of the husband; the law taking the disposal of any property
they die possessed of. A person born deaf and dumb cannot make a will,
unless there is evidence that he could read and comprehend its contents.
A person convicted of felony cannot make a will, unless subsequently
pardoned; neither can persons outlawed; but the wife of a felon
transported for life may make a will, and act in all respects as if she
were unmarried. A suicide may bequeath real estate, but personal
property is forfeited to the crown.

2734. Except in the case of soldiers on actual service, and sailors at
sea, every will must be made in writing. It must be signed by the
testator, or by some other person in his presence, and at his request,
and the signature must be made or acknowledged in the presence of two or
more witnesses, who are required to be present at the same time, who
declare by signing that the will was signed by the testator, or
acknowledged in their presence, and that they signed as witnesses in
testator's presence.

2735. By the act of 1852 it was enacted that no will shall be valid
unless signed at the foot or end thereof by the testator, or by some
person in his presence, and by his direction; but a subsequent act
proceeds to say that every will shall, as far only as regards the
position of the signature of the testator, or of the person signing for
him, be deemed valid if the signature shall be so placed at, or after,
or following, or under, or beside, or opposite to the end of the will,
that it shall be apparent on the face of it that the testator intended
to give it effect by such signature. Under this clause, a will of
several sheets, all of which were duly signed, except the last one, has
been refused probate; while, on the other hand, a similar document has
been admitted to probate where the last sheet only, and none of the
other sheets, was signed. In order to be perfectly formal, however, each
separate sheet should be numbered, signed, and witnessed, and attested
on the last sheet. This witnessing is an important act: the witnesses
must subscribe it in the presence of the testator and of each other; and
by their signature they testify to having witnessed the signature of the
testator, he being in sound mind at the time. Wills made under any kind
of coercion, or even importunity may become void, being contrary to the
wishes of the testator. Fraud or imposition also renders a will void,
and where two wills made by the same person happen to exist, neither of
them dated, the maker of the wills is declared to have died intestate.

2736. A will may always be revoked and annulled, but only by burning or
entirely destroying the writing, or by adding a codicil, or making a
subsequent will duly attested; but as the alteration of a will is only a
revocation to the extent of the alteration, if it is intended to revoke
the original will entirely, such intention should be declared,--no
merely verbal directions can revoke a written will; and the act of
running the pen through the signatures, or down the page, is not
sufficient to cancel it, without a written declaration to that effect
signed and witnessed.

2737. A will made before marriage is revoked thereby.

2738. A codicil is a supplement or addition to a will, either explaining
or altering former dispositions; it may be written on the same or
separate paper, and is to be witnessed and attested in the same manner
as the original document.

2739. WITNESSES.--Any persons are qualified to witness a will who can
write their names; but such witness cannot be benefitted by the will. If
a legacy is granted to the persons witnessing, it is void. The same rule
applies to the husband or wife of a witness; a bequest made to either of
these is void.

2740. FORM OF WILLS.--Form is unimportant, provided the testator's
intention is clear. It should commence with his designation; that is,
his name and surname, place of abode, profession, or occupation. The
legatees should also be clearly described. In leaving a legacy to a
married woman, if no trustees are appointed over it, and no specific
directions given, "that it is for her sole and separate use, free from
the control, debts, and incumbrances of her husband," the husband will
be entitled to the legacy. In the same manner a legacy to an unmarried
woman will vest in her husband after marriage, unless a settlement of it
is made on her before marriage.

2741. In sudden emergencies a form may be useful, and the following has
been considered a good one for a death-bed will, where the assistance of
a solicitor could not be obtained; indeed, few solicitors can prepare a
will on the spur of the moment: they require time and legal forms, which
are by no means necessary, before they can act.

    I, A.B., of No. 10, ----, Street, in the city of ----
    [gentleman, builder, or grocer, as the case may be,] being of
    sound mind, thus publish and declare my last will and testament.
    Revoking and annulling all former dispositions of my property, I
    give and bequeath as follows:--to my son J.B., of ----, I give
    and bequeath the sum of ---; to my daughter M., the wife of J.,
    of ----, I give and bequeath the sum of ---- [if intended for
    her own use, add "to her sole and separate use, free from the
    control, debts, and incumbrances of her husband"], both in
    addition to any sum or sums of money or other property they have
    before had from me. All the remaining property I die possessed
    of I leave to my dear wife M. B., for her sole and separate use
    during her natural life, together with my house and furniture,
    situate at No. 10, ---- Street, aforesaid. At her death, I
    desire that the said house shall be sold, with all the goods and
    chattels therein [or, I give and bequeath the said house, with
    all the goods and chattels therein, to ----], and the money
    realized from the sale, together with that in which my said wife
    had a life-interest, I give and bequeath in equal moieties to my
    son and daughter before named. I appoint my dear friend T.S., of
    ----, and T.B., of ----, together with my wife M.B., as
    executors to this my last will and testament.

    Signed by A.B., this 10th day of October, 1861, in our presence,
    both being present together, and both having signed as
    witnesses, in the presence of the testator:--A.B.

    T.S., Witness. F.M., Witness.

It is to be observed that the signature of the testator after this
attestation has been signed by the witnesses, is not a compliance with
the act; he must sign first.

2742. STAMP-DUTIES.--In the case of persons dying intestate, when their
effects are administered to by their family, the stamp-duty is half as
much more as it would have been under a will. Freehold and copyhold
estates are now subject to a special impost on passing, by the Stamp Act
of 1857.

2743. The legacy-duty only commences when it amounts to £20 and upwards;
and where it is not directed otherwise, the duty is deducted from the
legacy.

2744. You cannot compound for past absence of charity by bequeathing
land or tenements, or money to purchase such, to any charitable use, by
your last will and testament; but you may devise them to the British
Museum, to either of the two universities of Oxford and Cambridge, to
Eton, Winchester, and Westminster; and you may, if so inclined, leave it
for the augmentation of Queen Anne's bounty. You may, however, order
your executors to sell land and hand over the money received to any
charitable institution.

2745. In making provision for a wife, state whether it is in lieu of, or
in addition to, dower.

2746. If you have advanced money to any child, and taken an
acknowledgment for it, or entered it in any book of account, you should
declare whether any legacy left by will is in addition to such advance,
or whether it is to be deducted from the legacy.

2747. A legacy left by will to any one would be cancelled by your
leaving another legacy by a codicil to the same person, unless it is
stated to be in addition to the former bequest.

2748. Your entire estate is chargeable with your debts, except where the
real estate is settled. Let it be distinctly stated out of which
property, the real or personal, they are paid, where it consists of
both.

2749. Whatever is _devised_, let the intention be clearly expressed, and
without any condition, if you intend it to take effect.

2750. Attestation is not necessary to a will, as the act of witnessing
is all the law requires, and the will itself declares the testator to be
of sound mind in his own estimation; but, wherever there are erasures or
interlineations, one becomes necessary. No particular form is
prescribed; but it should state that the testator either signed it
himself, or that another signed it by his request, or that he
acknowledged the signature to be his in their presence, both being
present together, and signed as witnesses in his presence. When there
are erasures, the attestation must declare that--The words interlined in
the third line of page 4, and the erasure in the fifth line of page 6,
having been first made. These are the acts necessary to make a properly
executed will; and, being simple in themselves and easily performed,
they should be strictly complied with, and always attested.

2751. A witness may, on being requested, sign for testator; and he may
also sign for his fellow-witness, supposing he can only make his mark,
declaring that he does so; but a husband cannot sign for his wife,
either as testator or witness, nor can a wife for her husband.



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